Non-greasy cosmetic composition for improving skin gloss
By using white sheet fillers within a specific range of oil absorption and concealing power, combined with water-in-oil compositions, the problem of lack of gloss and oiliness in cosmetics is solved, and a long-lasting skin moisturization and natural gloss effect is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411250933.6
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-09-12
- Filing Date
- 2024-09-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-14
AI Technical Summary
When used in existing cosmetics to improve the gloss and durability of the skin, it is easy to cause problems of oily and gloss not lasting, and the use of pigments will reduce the gloss and increase the thickness.
A white sheet-like filler is used, with an oil absorption of 40 ml/g or less, a dE value determined by chromatic difference of 3 to 20, and a cosmetic composition is prepared by an emulsification process in combination with a water-in-oil composition.
While achieving non-greasy, it can last long-term skin moisturization, avoid oilyness, and maintain a natural shiny effect.
Smart Images

Figure CN119606768A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present specification discloses a cosmetic composition which maintains existing physical properties, improves and maintains the skin's moisture level for a long time, and is non-greasy. Background Art
[0002] In base makeup such as liquid foundation and air cushion, in order to enhance the gloss and durability, methods of formulating high refractive index oil and / or high refractive index polyol at high content and methods using film preparations are mainly used.
[0003] However, these methods may cause the following problems.
[0004] First, because the shine is created by oil, it imparts excessive moisturization to the skin, which may be perceived as oily. This is different from the clean moisturization that consumers usually like, so these ingredients cannot be used to the maximum but only at an appropriate level to impart the desired moisturization.
[0005] Furthermore, even when a film preparation is used, the skin shine generated by the oil part or the water phase part evaporates or disappears, so the durability of the moisturizing effect is always a problem.
[0006] In order to improve these problems, there is a technique of using pigments. However, pigments substantially reduce the glossiness by reducing the oiliness, and also impart undesirable properties such as reduced spreadability and increased thickness due to increased viscosity, making it difficult to use them at high contents.
[0007] Therefore, there is a demand for the development of a cosmetic composition that improves the long-lasting moisturizing effect and does not cause oily feeling. Summary of the invention
[0008] Technical issues
[0009] In one aspect of the present disclosure, it is intended to provide a non-greasy cosmetic composition that maintains existing physical properties while enhancing and maintaining skin moisture.
[0010] Technical Solution
[0011] On the one hand, the present specification provides a cosmetic composition, which is a cosmetic composition including a white flaky filler, wherein the oil absorption of the filler is 40 ml / g or less, and the concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by color difference measurement.
[0012] Effects of the Invention
[0013] On the one hand, the cosmetic composition disclosed in the present specification includes a white flake filler having a specific value of oil absorption and concealing power, so that it can maintain and improve the skin's moisture for a long time without being greasy. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0014] Figure 1 is the result of observing the glossiness and moisturization of the skin in one embodiment of the present disclosure;
[0015] Figure 2 This is a sample photo used in the present disclosure to define the gloss and grease of the skin using numerical values. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0016] The present invention is further described in detail by the following examples. However, the following examples are provided only for the purpose of illustrating to help understand the present invention, and the category and scope of the present invention are not limited thereto.
[0017] In an exemplary implementation example of the present disclosure, a cosmetic composition is provided as a non-greasy cosmetic composition for enhancing skin gloss, the cosmetic composition comprising a white flaky filler, the oil absorption of the filler being less than 40 ml / g, and the concealing power of the filler being a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by color difference measurement.
[0018] In yet another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure, a method for improving skin radiance is provided, the method comprising the step of applying the aforementioned cosmetic composition to the skin.
[0019] In yet another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure, a non-greasy method for improving skin radiance is provided, the method comprising the step of applying the aforementioned cosmetic composition to the skin.
[0020] In another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure, there is provided a use of a white flaky filler for preparing a cosmetic composition for enhancing skin gloss, wherein the oil absorption of the filler is less than 40 ml / g, and the concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by color difference measurement.
[0021] In another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure, there is provided a use of a white flaky filler for preparing a non-greasy cosmetic composition for enhancing skin gloss, wherein the oil absorption of the filler is less than 40 ml / g, and the concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by color difference measurement.
[0022] In another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure, a non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition for enhancing skin gloss is provided, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises a white flaky filler, the oil absorption of the filler is less than 40 ml / g, and the concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by color difference measurement.
[0023] In another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure, a non-therapeutic use of a non-greasy cosmetic composition for enhancing skin gloss is provided, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises a white flaky filler, the oil absorption of the filler is less than 40 ml / g, and the concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by color difference measurement.
[0024] When the filler is spherical or amorphous, it exhibits mainly scattering optical properties, and thus can provide a matte effect. On the contrary, when the filler is flake, it exhibits mainly regular reflection optical properties, and thus can provide a glossy effect.
[0025] In addition, fillers can also show different oil absorptions depending on the size of the particles, and can also show different oil absorptions even for the same material depending on the porosity created during the synthesis process. Therefore, oil absorption can be considered a characteristic of each raw material.
[0026] In the present disclosure, a white flaky filler is included, so that it can have an intermediate degree of concealing power while improving and maintaining the skin's moisturizing degree. The flaky filler is limited to white, and no other color effects are imparted, so it can be used as a variety of cosmetic compositions. When the oil absorption of the filler exceeds 40 ml / g, it absorbs too much oily gloss of the external phase, so that when the cosmetic composition is applied, the glossiness on the skin may not be improved, and due to the high oil absorption, it may give consumers an unwelcome feeling of use such as increased viscosity.
[0027] The oil absorption of the filler may be, for example, less than 40 ml / g, less than 37 ml / g, less than 35 ml / g, less than 30 ml / g, less than 25 ml / g or less than 20 ml / g, and may be more than 15 ml / g, more than 20 ml / g, more than 25 ml / g, more than 30 ml / g or more than 35 ml / g.
[0028] The concealing power of the filler is that the higher the dE value measured by colorimetry, the higher the concealing power, and the lower the dE value, the more transparent it is. Therefore, when the dE value measured by colorimetry is less than 3, when applied to the skin, it has no concealing power and exposes skin spots and the like truthfully and transparently. Therefore, even if the oil is fully absorbed, it may not have the effect of increasing the reflectivity. When it exceeds 20, the concealing power is too high and an artificial gloss is presented, so it may be difficult to give the skin a natural concealing power.
[0029] For example, the dE value of the color difference measurement can be 3 or more, 5 or more, 7 or more, 9 or more, 11 or more, 13 or more, 15 or more, 17 or more, or 19 or more, and can be 20 or less, 18 or less, 16 or less, 14 or less, 12 or less, 10 or less, 8 or less, 6 or less, or 4 or less.
[0030] In one implementation example, the particle size of the filler may be 1 to 20 μm.
[0031] When the particle size of the filler is less than 1 μm, there may be no effect of improving the gloss, and when it exceeds 20 μm, the user may feel uncomfortable due to the graininess.
[0032] For example, the particle size may be greater than 1 μm, greater than 3 μm, greater than 5 μm, greater than 7 μm, greater than 9 μm, greater than 11 μm, greater than 13 μm, greater than 15 μm, greater than 17 μm or greater than 19 μm, and may be less than 20 μm, less than 18 μm, less than 16 μm, less than 14 μm, less than 12 μm, less than 10 μm, less than 8 μm, less than 6 μm, less than 4 μm, or less than 2 μm.
[0033] In one implementation example, the filler may include one or more selected from the group consisting of aluminum oxide, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, illite, magnesium / potassium / silicon / fluoride / hydroxide / oxide, boron nitride, calcium aluminum borosilicate, calcium titanium borosilicate, and combinations thereof.
[0034] For example, the combination may be a combination of mica and titanium dioxide, a combination of synthetic fluorphlogopite and titanium dioxide, etc., and flake-type types that satisfy the aforementioned oil absorption and concealing power conditions may be used.
[0035] In one implementation example, the filler may be modified by one or more selected from the group consisting of organic silicon compounds, amino acid compounds and metal salt compounds.
[0036] In one implementation example, the silicone compound includes one or more of polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxycaprylylsilane, the amino acid compound includes one or more of lauroyl lysine, sodium lauroyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate, and the metal salt compound includes magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and zinc myristate.
[0037] In one implementation example, when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the low frequency measurement value of the skin may be greater than 15. The low frequency value (LFM, Low Frequency Mean) is a value representing the gloss intensity of the skin, and can be calculated by taking a photo of the skin after applying the cosmetic composition to the skin and using Image Pro 10 (MediaCybernetics, USA).
[0038] In one implementation example, when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the percentage of the low frequency / high frequency measured values of the skin can be 60% or more. The high frequency standard deviation (HFSD) as a value representing the standard deviation of gloss can be calculated by taking a photo of the skin after applying the cosmetic composition to the skin and using Image Pro 10 (Media Cybernetics, USA).
[0039] In the present disclosure, the lower the HFSD / LFM value is, the more ideal the skin moisturization is.
[0040] In one implementation example, the cosmetic composition may be a water-in-oil composition.
[0041] For example, the cosmetic composition may include an oil phase and a water phase, and the white flake filler may be included in the oil phase or the water phase, and is generally dispersed in the oil phase, but may be dispersed in the water phase when the filler is not surface treated.
[0042] In one implementation example, the cosmetic composition may include 0.1 to 5 weight % of the filler based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0043] When the filler is included in an amount of less than 0.1% by weight, the oil absorption effect may be weak, and when the filler is included in an amount of more than 5% by weight, the user may feel uncomfortable due to an excessive increase in viscosity (more than 2000 cps).
[0044] For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the filler may be more than 0.1 wt%, more than 0.5 wt%, more than 1 wt%, more than 2 wt%, more than 3 wt% or more than 4 wt%, and may be less than 5 wt%, less than 4 wt%, less than 3 wt%, less than 2 wt%, less than 1 wt%, or less than 0.5 wt%.
[0045] In one implementation example, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition may be less than 2000 cps.
[0046] In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition may be less than 2000 cps as measured by a Brookfield viscometer (measurement conditions: 30° C., 64 rotor, 12 rpm, 1 minute).
[0047] For example, the viscosity may be less than 2000 cps, less than 1500 cps, less than 1000 cps, or less than 500 cps.
[0048] The cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may further contain functional additives and ingredients included in general cosmetic compositions. As the functional additives, the components selected from the group consisting of water-soluble vitamins, oil-soluble vitamins, high molecular weight peptides, high molecular weight polysaccharides, squalane, sphingolipids and seaweed concentrated juice may be included.
[0049] In addition, in the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, the components included in the general cosmetic composition can also be formulated as needed together with the functional additives. As the formulation components included in addition, oil components, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifiers, organic and inorganic pigments, organic powders, ultraviolet absorbers, preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, plant extracts, pH regulators, ethanol, pigments, fragrances, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, purified water, etc. can be cited.
[0050] In one implementation example, the cosmetic composition may be a base makeup cosmetic composition.
[0051] For example, the cosmetic composition can be formulated into the form of primer, liquid foundation, primer, double-effect powder, pressed powder, loose powder, air cushion (a type of cosmetic composition carried on a carrier), and emulsion-type pressed powder.
[0052] Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described in detail by the following examples. However, the following examples are provided only for the purpose of illustrating to help understand the present invention, and the category and scope of the present invention are not limited thereto.
[0053] Example
[0054] Measurement / Evaluation Methods and Criteria
[0055] 1) Standards for skin moisture and oiliness
[0056] like Figure 2As shown, a sample photo is prepared for defining the gloss and grease of the skin using numerical values (Intern J of Cosmetic Sci, First published: 22 March 2023, DOI: (10.1111 / ics.12859)). The low-frequency value (LFM) represents the gloss intensity, and the high-frequency standard deviation (HFSD) represents the standard deviation of the gloss. The more uneven the gloss is, the more people will think it is grease rather than gloss. Therefore, in the following examples, the lower the HFSD / LFM value is, the more ideal the gloss is (reference paper Study for skin gloss perception using computer modulation and frequency separation on surface reflection (Intern J of Cosmetic Sci, First published: 22 March 2023, DOI: (10.1111 / ics.12859))).
[0057] Specifically, after taking a face image using VISIA-CR (Canfield Science, USA), ImagePro 10 (Media Cybernetics, USA) was used to save it as a JPEG file in the sRGB color space. The saved image was processed using a low-pass filter (convolution kernel size 3*3), and the LFM and HFSD values were calculated using Image Pro10 (Media Cybernetics, USA). Based on the calculated values, 15 evaluators observed each image and divided it into moistness / glossiness, and then defined the meaning of each value.
[0058] 2) Oil absorption
[0059] Place the test sample on a plate and slowly drip 4 or 5 drops of oil (caprylic / capric triglyceride) at a time using a burette. Each time you add oil, mix the sample and oil thoroughly with a palette knife. Continue adding oil at the same speed so that the oil and material form clumps. When clumps form, stir the whole with a palette knife after adding a drop of oil from now on. Add oil until the mixture is evenly mixed. The mixture needs to spread directly on the plate without cracking or crumbling, and it needs to adhere immediately.
[0060] Read the amount of oil used through the burette and record it. The time required to complete the operation should be about 20 minutes to 30 minutes, and the operator needs to do his best to process the entire sample during this time. For the result display, it starts with a sample amount of 100g as the basis, and the result is expressed as the amount of oil put in at the end of the operation (when the sample becomes a lump) / 100g (citing the national standard certification KSM ISO 787-5: General test methods for pigments and extenders-Part 5: Determination of oil absorption (https: / / standard.go.kr / KSCI / portalindex.do)).
[0061] 3) Particle size
[0062] After the sample was quantitatively dispersed in the solvent (ethanol), the particle size was measured using a laser particle size analyzer (Mastersizer 2000, Malvern), wherein the laser particle size analyzer is a device that uses laser diffraction (Laser diffraction) and uses the light scattered to the sample and the refractive index of the solvent and the sample to calculate / measure the particle size. At this time, a particle size distribution diagram was obtained, using the D50 value indicating the median particle size, in units of μm.
[0063] 4) Concealer coverage
[0064] ASTM 344 measures concealment by how similar the color of the paint appears on the black and white lines after the paint is applied with a brush on a black and white drawdown tile card. In the following example, a solution of the above sample dispersed at 10 wt% in oil (Caprylic / CapricTriglyceride) is applied to black artificial leather at a thickness of 75 μm. At this time, the difference (dE = ((L1-L2)^2+(a1-a2)^2+(b1-b2)^2)^1 / 2) between the color of the uncoated artificial skin (L*, a*, b*) and the color of the leather coated with the sample is regarded as concealment. Since it is all white powder, the difference with white leather is not considered, and it is considered that the greater the color difference with the uncoated black leather, the higher the concealment. The color difference value dE is a value representing the distance between two color coordinates in the color coordinate system. It has no unit and is expressed in a form such as "dE = number". (L*, a*, b*) (Applying ASTM D 344TestMethod for Relative Hiding Power of Paints by the Visual Evaluation ofBrushouts)
[0065] 5) Gloss intensity (in-vivo)
[0066] It represents the LFM value calculated by the method disclosed in 1). After applying an appropriate amount of the sample on the face of the test subject, the forehead was measured.
[0067] 6) Gloss standard deviation (in-vivo)
[0068] It represents the HFSD / LFM (*100%) value calculated by the method disclosed in 1). After the test subject applies an appropriate amount of the sample on the face, the forehead is measured. The unit is %.
[0069] Experimental example
[0070] Experimental Example 1 - Gloss intensity based on oil absorption (in-vitro)
[0071] The composition was prepared as shown in the following Table 1. After the powder part was dispersed in the oil phase part, the water phase part was added to the oil phase part, and the composition was prepared through the following steps of emulsification.
[0072] 1) Mixed oil phase
[0073] 2) Disperse the powder into the oil phase
[0074] 3) Add the water phase to the oil phase of the dispersed powder for emulsification
[0075] Therefore, the final formulation is a w / o dosage form in which the powder portion exists in the oil phase portion as the external phase.
[0076] The gloss intensity based on the oil absorption was measured (in-vitro) for the compositions according to Table 1. When the concealing power dE was set in the range of 3-20 and the size was set in the range of 1-20 μm, it was confirmed that when the oil absorption was too high, the gloss effect was significantly reduced.
[0077]
Table 1
[0078]
[0079]
[0080]
[0081] Experimental Example 2 - Glossiness based on concealing power (in-vitro)
[0082] The composition was prepared as shown in Table 2 below, and the gloss intensity based on the concealing power was measured (in-vitro). The oil absorption was set to be in the range of 20-40 ml / g and the size was set to be in the range of 1-20 um. That is, the particle size and oil absorption were kept similar, and the experiment was used to verify the concealing power. Generally, when the concealing power is low, there is no gloss intensity increase effect. When the concealing power is high (more than 20), there may be a gloss enhancement effect, but when applied directly to the face, an unnatural gloss is produced, which may not be suitable.
[0083]
Table 2
[0084]
[0085]
[0086]
[0087] Experimental Example 3 - Comparison based on particle size (in-vivo)
[0088] When preparing the composition as shown in Tables 1 and 2, a widely used white flake filler of 1-20 μm in size was used. Generally, flake pigments below 1 μm are not used, and as pigments of several hundred nm, colorants are usually used. In addition, when the size exceeds 20 μm, the graininess of the raw material can be felt when applying the dosage form, so it is considered unsuitable for use as a base makeup such as foundation liquid and primer.
[0089] Experimental Example 4 - Enhancement of gloss and improvement of durability
[0090] The gloss strength (LFM) and standard deviation CV (HFSM / LFM%) of In-vivo and whether they have durability over time were observed. As test samples, the composition of Example 1 and a powder-free formulation composition (control group) were used. Figure 1 The photographs taken after applying the composition (unit %) on the skin are shown in FIG. 1 , and based on the photographs, the LFM value and the HFSM value were measured according to the aforementioned [Standards for Skin Glossiness and Oiliness].
[0091] First, the results of the LFM values measured over time are shown in the following Table 3. This value is an average value of N=4, and it was confirmed that when the gloss material within the range specified in the present disclosure is included, a significant gloss enhancement effect is also achieved in actual human skin. In addition, in the control group without white flake filler, it was not achieved with high refractive index oil and polyol, but according to this example, the persistence of gloss can be ensured.
[0092]
Table 3
[0093] distinguish Before coating Immediately after application (3 minutes) 3 hours after application 6 hours after application Control group 16.32 17.17 17.58 18.18 Example 1 16.01 18.48 19.65 20.83
[0094] The results of the measurement over time (HFSM / LFM%) are shown in Table 4 below. This value is an average value of N=4, and it was confirmed that when the gloss material within the range specified in the present disclosure was included, the standard deviation used as a reference in the cited literature was low, so it was considered to be glossiness rather than oiliness, and an ideal glossiness was achieved. When a long time has passed after application, it is easy to think that the makeup is oily, but the gloss of the examples maintained a low standard deviation even after a long time, so it was confirmed that an ideal glossiness was achieved.
[0095]
Table 4
[0096]
[0097] Specific example
[0098] Specific example 1: A use as a white flaky filler for preparing a non-greasy cosmetic composition for enhancing skin gloss, wherein the oil absorption of the filler is 40 ml / g or less, and the concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 as measured by color difference measurement.
[0099] Specific example 2: A use, according to specific example 1, the particle size of the filler is 1 to 20 μm.
[0100] Specific example 3: A use, according to specific example 1 or 2, the filler includes one or more selected from the group consisting of aluminum oxide, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, illite, magnesium / potassium / silicon / fluoride / hydroxide / oxide, boron nitride, calcium aluminum borosilicate, calcium titanium borosilicate and combinations thereof.
[0101] Specific example 4: A use according to specific examples 1 to 3, wherein the filler is modified by one or more selected from the group consisting of organic silicon compounds, amino acid compounds and metal salt compounds.
[0102] Specific example 5: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 4, the organosilicon compound includes one or more of polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxyoctylsilane,
[0103] The amino acid compound includes at least one of lauroyl lysine, sodium lauroyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate.
[0104] The metal salt compounds include magnesium myristic acid, zinc stearate and zinc myristic acid.
[0105] Specific example 6: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 5, when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the low-frequency measurement value of the skin is 15 or more.
[0106] Specific example 7: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 6, when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the percentage of the low-frequency / high-frequency measurement values of the skin is greater than 60%.
[0107] Specific example 8: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 7, the cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil type composition.
[0108] Specific example 9: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 8, containing 0.1 to 5 weight % of the filler based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0109] Specific example 10: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 9, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is less than 2000 cps.
[0110] Specific example 11: A use, according to specific examples 1 to 10, the cosmetic composition is a base makeup cosmetic composition.
Claims
1. A use as a white flaky filler for preparing a non-greasy skin gloss enhancing cosmetic composition, The oil absorption of the filler is less than 40 ml / g, The concealing power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 measured by colorimetry.
2. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The particle size of the filler is 1 to 20 μm.
3. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The filler includes one or more selected from the group consisting of aluminum oxide, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, illite, magnesium / potassium / silicon / fluoride / hydroxide / oxide, boron nitride, calcium aluminum borosilicate, calcium titanium borosilicate and combinations thereof.
4. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The filler is modified by one or more selected from the group consisting of organic silicon compounds, amino acid compounds and metal salt compounds.
5. The use according to claim 4, wherein: The organosilicon compound includes one or more of polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxyoctylsilane. The amino acid compound includes at least one of lauroyl lysine, sodium lauroyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate. The metal salt compounds include magnesium myristic acid, zinc stearate and zinc myristic acid.
6. The use according to claim 1, wherein: When the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the low frequency measurement value of the skin is 15 or more.
7. The use according to claim 1, wherein: When the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the percentage of low-frequency / high-frequency measurement values of the skin is 60% or more.
8. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil type composition.
9. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The cosmetic composition contains 0.1 to 5 weight % of the filler based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
10. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The viscosity of the cosmetic composition is less than 2000 cps.
11. The use according to claim 1, wherein: The cosmetic composition is a base makeup cosmetic composition.