Compositions containing 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl) but-2-one, and methods of treating keratin materials using same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising i) at least one compound of 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl) butan-2-one; ii) at least one preservative and / or antioxidant other than i); iii) at least one surfactant selected from the group of surfactants; iv) at least one preferably organic polymer, in particular a thickening polymer; and v) optionally a fatty substance. The invention also relates to the use of i) to vi) as an antimicrobial agent, to a method for treating keratin materials using a composition comprising i) to vi), and to a kit comprising the ingredients i) to vi). The combination of i), ii), iii), iv) and optionally v) makes it possible to obtain an antimicrobial mixture having excellent antimicrobial activity, in particular, against Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. Furthermore, the formulation remains stable over time even after 7 days, 15 days, 1 month and at room temperature, while maintaining antimicrobial activity over time.

Description

[0001] This application is a divisional application of the following application: Application date December 2, 2020, application number 202080083236.X, invention name "Composition containing 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, preservatives and / or antioxidants, surfactants and polymers, and a method for treating keratin materials using the composition".

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition comprising i) at least one 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; ii) at least one preservative different from i) and / or at least one antioxidant; iii) at least one surfactant; iv) at least one preferably organic polymer, in particular a thickening polymer; and v) optionally a fatty substance, it being understood that when the composition comprises cationic surfactants, their concentration is less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to the use of i) to vi) as an antimicrobial agent, to a method for treating keratin materials using a composition comprising i) to vi), and to a kit comprising ingredients i) to vi). Technical Field

[0003] Microorganisms can survive and multiply in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food products that do not contain preservatives. Preservatives are routinely added to all industrial preparations that are intended to be stored or preserved in order to prevent microbial growth over time.

[0004] Microbial contamination is also common during the production of industrial products, even when the starting ingredients of the product are "clean", i.e. when there are no contaminating microorganisms. For example, water that is ubiquitous in most cosmetics, medicines or food products must not contain contaminating microorganisms. All other ingredients must also be screened for the presence of contaminating microorganisms. Cleanliness during the production of these industrial products, the handling of contents and the filling of containers must be strictly monitored. Despite these precautions, the microbial integrity of the product may require the presence of one or more preservatives compatible with the product and the stability of the composition. The product must not allow the growth of contaminating microorganisms or have viability. In addition, since fingers, cosmetic applicators and even ambient air are not sterile, it is still problematic to keep cleanliness during use. Therefore, preservatives are needed to reduce microbial contamination of consumers during normal use.

[0005] Generally speaking, all products sold (especially cosmetic products) must be free of pathogenic microorganisms (Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia, Cosmetics, Martin M. Rieger, 04 / 12 / 2000; https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01). In recent years, preservation problems have also led to the introduction of preservatives, which range from resistant contaminating microorganisms.

[0006] Furthermore, it appears that some of the commonly used preservatives are inactivated by various surfactants. The more hydrophobic the preservative, the greater the risk that it will be trapped in organized molecular systems (such as micelles) and subsequently become less effective or even ineffective against microorganisms (especially pathogenic microorganisms) (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Skin Cosmetics", G. Schneider et al., Vol. 33, p. 221, 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a24_219).

[0007] Therefore, there is great interest in proposing new antimicrobial associations to address these challenges.

[0008] 4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one or ethylgingerone (EZ) is a known ingredient as a preservative for compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, for protecting the composition from microbial contamination (see, for example, WO 2011 / 039445). The compound has been used alone or as a mixture with other preservative or non-preservative compounds (see, for example, WO 2018 / 115058). It is of great interest to be able to use this preservative in a reduced concentration, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing the preservative, if possible, in a composition, especially in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, especially in a dermatological composition, which preservative not only has the same or even enhanced antimicrobial action, but is also stable over time in the composition, while at the same time avoiding changes in the odor over time, and also retains its ability as a preservative, i.e. its antimicrobial efficacy. FR 1 756 156 and WO 2019 / 002 400 also describe cosmetic compositions comprising EZ and another preservative of the aromatic alcohol type. These compositions do not always give a satisfactory appearance, especially with regard to the matte effect and / or soft-focus effect after application to the skin, and also with regard to the stability of the formulation, especially with respect to temperature.

[0009] Furthermore, compositions comprising several antimicrobial agents are of great interest, which compositions remain stable in terms of formulation and are not too viscous, i.e. less than 90 poise, preferably less than 45 poise. Compositions are also sought that do not change over time, especially in terms of appearance and / or viscosity, even after storage for several weeks or even months at temperatures greater than or equal to 25°C, especially from 37°C to 45°C, and / or at temperatures below 25°C, especially from 1°C to 10°C, such as 4°C.

[0010] Furthermore, compositions intended for application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin, must have a matte effect, if possible, or even a matte effect, if possible, after application of the cosmetic composition.

[0011] With regard to the feel of the compositions to be applied to keratin materials, a sufficiently long-lasting application pleasure effect is generally sought, this effect having a sensation which may also be accompanied by a feeling of freshness.

[0012] It has been found that, surprisingly, the following mixtures make it possible to obtain an antimicrobial mixture having an improved or even synergistic effect in the antimicrobial activity while maintaining the physicochemical stability of the formulation over time: a mixture of: i) at least one 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one or its organic or inorganic base salts, and also solvates such as hydrates thereof; ii) at least one preservative and / or at least one antioxidant different from i); iii) at least one surfactant; iv) at least one thickening polymer, preferably organic; and v) optionally at least one fatty substance, in particular liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, it being understood that when the mixture comprises one or more cationic surfactants, their amount is less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of ingredients i) to v). Furthermore, it can be seen that the composition defined below comprising ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above remains stable even after several weeks or even months at room temperature or even at temperatures above 25°C (37°C and 45°C). Furthermore, it can be seen that the combination of ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v) as well as the composition show no odor change over time or unpleasant odor.

[0013] Furthermore, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is sufficient for good application to keratin materials and / or is stable over time. Application to keratin materials, especially the skin, is pleasant, especially with a good feel when applying the composition by circular movements of the fingers on the skin. Even a pleasant fresh feeling on the skin during application can be felt.

[0014] A subject of the present invention is also a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above, it being understood that said composition comprises a quantity of less than 0.5% by weight of cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The subject of the present invention is also a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which method comprises applying to said keratin materials, especially human keratin materials such as the skin, a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above. This method may be a cosmetic method for caring for, making up, perfuming or cleansing keratin materials.

[0016] The subject of the invention is also a method for preserving a composition, in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, comprising in particular a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that it comprises incorporating into said composition an antimicrobial mixture i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above.

[0017] The results of the examples described below show that the antimicrobial activity of the combination of i), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) is improved according to minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) measurements with several mixtures compared to equivalent amounts of i) alone or ii) alone.

[0018] The combination of i), ii), iii), iv) and optionally v) enables to obtain antimicrobial mixtures having excellent antimicrobial activity, in particular against Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. In addition, even after 7 days, 15 days or 1 month and at room temperature, the composition remains stable over time, while maintaining antimicrobial activity over time.

[0019] More precisely, the subject of the present invention is an antimicrobial mixture comprising or consisting of (or consisting of): i), ii), iii) and iv) as defined above and optionally v), this combination representing 80% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said combination.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:

[0021] The term "thickening polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous solution or into an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol and at pH 7 or into a liquid selected from petrolatum, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentasiloxane, enables a thickening agent to be present at 25° C. and 1 s. -1 A viscosity of at least 100 cps and preferably at least 500 cps can be achieved at a shear rate of 100 cps. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer, etc.). The thickening polymer can thicken the water phase and / or the fat phase, preferably the water phase;

[0022] - the term "organic thickening polymer" means a thickening polymer as defined above, which is formed from carbon and hydrogen and possibly nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, halogens such as fluorine, chlorine or bromine and also phosphorus, alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, or alkaline earth metals such as magnesium or calcium. The organic polymers according to the invention do not contain silicon;

[0023] - according to the present invention, the term "non-cellulose based organic thickening polymer" means an organic thickening polymer which does not comprise any cellulose units;

[0024] - the term "surfactant" means "surface agent", which is a compound capable of changing the surface tension between two surfaces; surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, ie they contain two parts of different polarity, one lipophilic and nonpolar and the other hydrophilic and polar;

[0025] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%) at normal temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg); moreover, the fatty substance is soluble in an organic solvent, for example in a halogenated solvent such as chloroform or dichloromethane, in a lower alcohol such as ethanol or in an aromatic solvent such as benzene or toluene, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure;

[0026] - the term "organic or inorganic acid salt" more particularly means a salt selected from the group consisting of salts derived from: i) hydrochloric acid, HCl; ii) hydrobromic acid, HBr; iii) sulfuric acid, H2SO4; iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH, such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH, such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH, such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids, such as tolyloxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid, H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid, CH3C(O)OH; xiv) trifluoromethanesulfonic acid, CF3SO3H; and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid, HBF4;

[0027] - the term "organic or inorganic base salt" means a salt of a basic base or alkaline agent as defined below, such as an alkali metal hydroxide (e.g. sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), ammonia, an amine or an alkanolamine;

[0028] - The term "cationic counterion" means a cation or a cationic group derived from an organic or inorganic base salt, which balances the anionic charge of the component of formula (I) or (II); more particularly, the cationic counterion is selected from i) alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, preferably Na; ii) alkaline earth metals such as calcium; iii) ammonium R4N + , wherein R may be the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom, or a (C1-C6) alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group such as a methyl group;

[0029] - a hydrocarbon-based chain is "unsaturated" or a (hetero)cyclic group is "unsaturated" when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds which may be conjugated;

[0030] - "Alkyl" is a saturated straight or branched C1-C 20, preferably C1-C6, more preferably C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based groups, such as methyl or ethyl;

[0031] - "Alkylene" is an unsaturated divalent hydrocarbon-based group as defined previously, which may contain 1 to 4 conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds -C=C-; alkenylene contains in particular 1 or 2 degrees of unsaturation;

[0032] - the expression "optionally substituted" assigned to an alkyl group means that the alkyl group may be substituted by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of i) hydroxy, ii) C1-C4 alkoxy, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;

[0033] - "Alkoxy" is an alkyl-oxy group in which the alkyl group is a straight or branched C1-C 16 , preferably a group based on C1-C8 hydrocarbons; - the expression "at least one (species)" is equivalent to "one (species) or more (species)";

[0034] - a "heterocyclic" group is a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic hydrocarbon-based 5- to 12-membered ring group containing from 1 to 5 heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen, these heteroatoms forming part of at least one ring member of the ring; in particular, the heterocyclic group is selected from morpholinyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, furanyl, pyridinyl, indolyl and (benz)imidazolyl;

[0035] - "Cycloalkyl" is a saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic 4- to 14-membered hydrocarbon-based group containing 4 to 14 carbon atoms, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl;

[0036] - "Aryl" is an unsaturated, aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic 6- to 14-membered hydrocarbon-based radical comprising 6 to 14 carbon atoms, such as phenyl or biphenyl, preferably phenyl;

[0037] - The term "inclusive" for a concentration range means that the limit values ​​of the range are included in the defined interval.

[0038] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is a compound of formula (I):

[0039] [Chemical formula 1]

[0040]

[0041] i) 4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one can be found in solvated form, especially in hydrated form.

[0042] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one can be found in the form of a salt with an organic or inorganic base of the following formula (I'):

[0043] [Chemical formula 2]

[0044]

[0045] In formula (I'), M + represents a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium, or ammonium.

[0046] ii) Preservatives and / or antioxidants

[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, component ii) represents one or more preservatives.

[0048] It is to be understood that "preservative" ii) is a preservative different from i) as defined above.

[0049] The term "preservative" or "preserving agent" means a cosmetic or pharmaceutically acceptable compound which prevents the growth of microorganisms (or the growth of microorganisms) that may occur in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, from the moment of preparation of the compound, when they are stored and until they are routinely used by the consumer. Preservatives that may be mentioned in particular include those described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 Preservatives and Table 3, 04 / 12 / 2000, https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.

[0050] According to a specific embodiment, the preservative is selected from organic preservatives with aromatic groups.

[0051] Preferably, the preservative different from i) is selected from: a) benzene-based carboxylic acids, which are optionally substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl, (C1-C 10 ) alkyl and (C1-C 10 ) alkylcarbonyl, and also the alkali salts thereof, especially the alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts; b) hydroxybenzoic acid esters, which are optionally substituted on the phenyl group by one or more radicals selected from the group consisting of: (C1-C 10) alkyl such as parabens, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl paraben; c) aromatic alcohols; preferably, the preservative different from i) is selected from a), and in particular benzoic acid [65-85-0], and also its alkali salts, especially alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts; and also salicylic acid optionally substituted by (C1-C8)alkylcarbonyl, preferably salicylic acid.

[0052] According to another embodiment, the preservative ii) different from i) is selected from aromatic alcohols c) such as phenoxyethanol.

[0053] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, component ii) represents one or more antioxidants.

[0054] The term "antioxidant" means any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound which prevents or slows down the oxidation of other ingredients when in contact with it, oxidation which may occur in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions from the moment of preparation of the compounds, when they are stored and until their regular use by the consumer, in particular due to the presence of atmospheric oxygen, radiation and the in situ formation of free radicals. Antioxidants that may be mentioned in particular include those described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.1 Antioxidants and Table 2. Free-Radical-Inhibiting Antioxidants or Reductants Useful in Cosmetics, 04 / 12 / 2000 https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01

[0055] Preferably, the antioxidant is selected from keto and / or carboxyl heterocyclic acid compounds, such as caffeine, amino acids and hydroxylated benzene compounds, which are optionally substituted on the benzene ring by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups, in particular from benzene-based alcohols, preferably hydroxyacetophenone.

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the antioxidant ii) is selected from 4-hydroxyacetophenone (also known as 4-hydroxyphenyl ethyl ketone), 4-acetylphenol, 4-hydroxyphenyl methyl ketone or styracol, which is a compound of formula (II):

[0057] [Chemical formula 3]

[0058]

[0059] 4-Hydroxyacetophenone may be in solvated form, especially in hydrated form.

[0060] 4-Hydroxyacetophenone can be found in the form of salts with organic or inorganic bases of the following formula (II'):

[0061] [Chemical formula 4]

[0062]

[0063] In formula (II'), M + represents a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium, or ammonium.

[0064] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, component ii) represents a mixture of one or more preservatives as defined above and one or more antioxidants, in particular a mixture of a preservative selected from aromatic c) (such as phenoxyethanol) and an antioxidant selected from keto and / or carboxy heterocyclic acid compounds (such as caffeine).

[0065] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, component ii) represents one or more compounds that are preservatives and antioxidants.

[0066] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and component ii), especially 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are present in the mixture or composition in a certain amount so that the weight ratio i) / ii) ranges from 0.05 to 5, preferably from 0.08 to 5, preferably from 0.08 to 0.25 and 2 to 4, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25 and 3 to 3.8. This mixture has good antimicrobial activity against molds, especially Aspergillus niger.

[0067] Advantageously, i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and component ii), especially 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are present in the mixture or composition in an amount such that the weight ratio i) / ii) is in the range of 0.08 to 0.5, preferably in the range of 0.08 to 0.3, preferably in the range of 0.08 to 0.25, more preferably in the range of 0.15 to 0.25. This mixture has good antimicrobial activity against molds, especially Aspergillus niger.

[0068] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and component ii), especially 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are present in the mixture or composition in an amount such that the weight ratio i) / ii) ranges from 0.5 to 5, preferably ranges from 1 to 4 and more preferably ranges from 3 to 3.8. Such a mixture has good antimicrobial activity against Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, and this is also true over time, even after a few weeks (1 week, 2 weeks or even a month).

[0069] iii) Surfactants

[0070] The mixture according to the invention comprises ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined above, it being understood that when the mixture comprises one or more cationic surfactants, their amount is less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of i) to v), preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight of cationic surfactants, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight of cationic surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably an amount of less than 0.5% by weight of surfactants; better still, the mixture does not comprise any cationic surfactant.

[0071] The composition of the present invention comprises iii) one or more surfactants selected from the following: nonionic, anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric or cationic surfactants, it should be understood that the composition comprises an amount of 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of less than or equal to 0.2% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; even more preferably, the composition comprises an amount of less than 0.05%; better still, the composition of the present invention does not contain any cationic surfactant. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant is nonionic or anionic, preferably nonionic.

[0072] Among the nonionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made of a) fatty alcohols, b) α-diols and c) alkylphenols, alone or as a mixture, the three types of compounds a) to c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and containing a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethyleneoxy or propyleneoxy groups possibly in particular ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups possibly in particular ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO), condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 mol of EO, including polyglycerolated fatty amides having an average of 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 200 mol of EO, in particular 10 to 100 EO; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide.

[0073] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from: (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides, preferably oxyethylenated fatty acid monoesters and diesters of sorbitan containing 2 to 200 mol EO, especially 10 to 100 EO.

[0074] More preferably, the surfactant is selected from oxyethylenated fatty acid monoesters and diesters of sorbitan containing 2 to 200 mol EO, especially 10 to 100 EO, such as propylene glycol stearate, glyceryl monostearate / glyceryl distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO) containing 10 to 30 EO, such as 20 EO.

[0075] The term "fatty chain" means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as stearyl.

[0076] As regards the alkyl polyglycosides, these compounds are well known and can be represented more particularly by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O) t (G) v (III), in formula (III):

[0077] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group containing about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0078] - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising about 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0079] -G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0080] - t is an integer from 0 to 10 and including end values, preferably from 0 to 4, preferably from 0 to 4; and

[0081] -v indicates an integer from 1 to 15, inclusive.

[0082] Preferred alkyl polyglycosides according to the invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R1 more particularly denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, and G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, ie the value of v in formula (III), may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly from 1 to 2 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5.

[0083] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0084] The compound of formula (III) is especially marketed by Cognis under the name (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or The products sold by SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or NS10), the product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by BASF or those sold under the name AG10 LK by Chem Y.

[0085] You can also use (C8 / C 16 ) alkyl-1,4-polyglucoside as a 53% aqueous solution, supplied by Corning under the reference number 818 UP for sale.

[0086] As regards the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups, such as 20 glycerol groups.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant is monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated and is preferably selected from compounds having the following formula:

[0088] RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O] m H,

[0089] RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O] m H or

[0090] RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O] m H;

[0091] In this formula:

[0092] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0093] -m is a number from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6. R may optionally contain heteroatoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally contain one or more hydroxyl and / or ether and / or amide groups. R preferably indicates an optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated C 10 -C 20 Alkyl and / or alkenyl.

[0094] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention, more particularly chosen from alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0095] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0096] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably have the following formula:

[0097] R a -[O-CH2-CH2] n -OH

[0098] and

[0099] -R a Indicates a straight or branched C1-C 40 Alkyl or linear or branched C2-C 30 Alkenyl (preferably C8-C 30 alkyl); and

[0100] n represents an integer from 1 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, more particularly from 10 to 50, even more particularly from 15 to 30, such as 100 or 20, inclusive.

[0101] (Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 100 EO). Among them, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 20EO, lauryl alcohol 30EO, decanol 3EO, decanol 5EO and oleyl alcohol 20EO.

[0102] It is also possible to use mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

[0103] Among the nonionic surfactants, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglucosides and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and more particularly C8-C 16 Alkyl polyglucoside.

[0104] The amount of nonionic surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0105] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0106] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant which contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the groups -C(O)OH, -C(O)O - 、-SO3H、-S(O)2O - 、-OS(O)2OH、-OS(O)2O - 、-P(O)2OH、-P(O)2O - 、-P(O)O2 - , -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O - , =P(O)O - , =POH and =PO - The anionic portion includes a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium. More preferably, the group is a carboxyl group -C(O)OH or a carboxylate group -C(O)O - .

[0107] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl carboxylic acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisothionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkylmonoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, salts of alkyldiesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside-uronates, alkylethercarboxylates, alkylarylethercarboxylates, alkylaminoethercarboxylates; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl radicals of all these compounds comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and the aryl radical representing a phenyl radical.

[0108] These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units.

[0109] Polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid C6-C 24 The salt of the alkyl monoester can be selected from C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate.

[0110] When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts, and preferably sodium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts, especially amino alcohol salts, or alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).

[0111] Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may be mentioned in particular include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine and triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0112] Preference is given to using alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium salts or magnesium salts.

[0113] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, preference is given to using: (C6-C 24 ) alkyl carboxylic acids, especially (C 10 -C 20 ) alkylcarboxylic acids, preferably of natural origin, in particular of vegetable origin, such as stearic acid, which may be in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline earth metal salts; or mixtures of these compounds.

[0114] The amount of anionic surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, particularly from 1% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0115] The amount of surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight, even more particularly from 3% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 4% to 6% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0116] iv) Organic thickening polymers:

[0117] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more thickening organic polymers.

[0118] The term "thickening polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous solution or into an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol and at pH = 7 or into a liquid selected from petrolatum, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentasiloxane, enables a thickening of the liquid at 25° C. and 1 s. -1 The viscosity of at least 100 cps and preferably at least 500 cps is achieved at a shear rate of 1.5 %. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer, etc.). The thickening polymer can be a thickening agent for the water phase and / or the fat phase, preferably for the water phase.

[0119] The term "organic" thickening polymer means a thickening polymer as defined above, which is formed from carbon and hydrogen and possibly nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, halogens such as fluorine, chlorine or bromine and also phosphorus, alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, or alkaline earth metals such as magnesium or calcium. The organic polymers according to the invention do not contain any silicon.

[0120] The organic thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0121] The thickening polymer may be an anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymer of the associative or nonassociative type, more particularly an anionic polymer.

[0122] They can be thickeners for the aqueous phase or the oily phase.

[0123] As aqueous phase thickening polymers there may be mentioned associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative, thickening polymers bearing sugar units.

[0124] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means a sugar unit derived from the formula C n (H2O) n-1 or (CH2O) nof carbohydrate units, which may optionally be modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0125] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0126] Thickening polymers of the invention that may be mentioned in particular include native gums, such as:

[0127] a) Exudates from trees or shrubs, including:

[0128] - Gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0129] - Gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

[0130] - Karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0131] - Tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0132] b) Gums derived from algae, including:

[0133] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0134] - Alginate (polymer of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0135] - carrageenan and furcellan (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0136] c) Gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:

[0137] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0138] - Locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0139] - fennel gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0140] - Tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0141] - Konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0142] d) Microbial gums, including:

[0143] - Xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0144] - Gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0145] - Scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0146] e) Plant extracts, including:

[0147] - cellulose (glucose polymer);

[0148] - starch (glucose polymer), and

[0149] -Inulin.

[0150] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may be made especially of temperature.

[0151] As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterifications, etherifications, amidations or oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to provide polymers which may in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0152] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0153] The nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0154] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl radicals, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl radicals.

[0155] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, for example propylene oxide, with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0156] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0157] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP 120 by Rhodia Chimie.

[0158] The plant source of the starch molecules used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch or pea starch.

[0159] The starch may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation or heat treatment.

[0160] Preference is given to using distarch phosphate or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, for example the products sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelled hydroxypropyl tapioca distarch phosphate), or Prejel TK1 (gelled tapioca distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelled acetyl tapioca distarch phosphate) by Avebe, or Structure Zea (gelled corn distarch phosphate) from National Starch.

[0161] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, which contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic group and the cationic group can be bound to the same reaction site or different reaction sites of the starch molecule; they are preferably bound to the same reaction site. The anionic group can be a carboxylate, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably a carboxylate type. The cationic group can be a primary amine, a secondary amine, a tertiary amine or a quaternary amine type.

[0162] The starch molecule may originate from any plant source of starch, such as in particular corn, potato, oat, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the above mentioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0163] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention may be cellulose-based polymers which do not contain C 10 -C 30 Fat chain.

[0164] According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; cellulose derivatives other than unsubstituted cellulose may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0165] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers of the present invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0166] Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0167] Cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrate, cellulose sulfate, cellulose phosphate, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetate, cellulose triacetate, cellulose amidopropionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate or cellulose acetate trimellitate, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate and ethyl cellulose sulfate may be mentioned.

[0168] Without C 10 -C 30 Among the nonionic cellulose ethers of fatty chains, i.e. the “non-associative” type, mention may be made of (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g. Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from The Dow Chemical Company); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (e.g. Methocel E4M from The Dow Chemical Company), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0169] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without fatty chains, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose and its salts. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylmethylcellulose (for example Blanose 7M from Aquaron) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose and its sodium salt.

[0170] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without fatty chains, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose grafted in particular with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly marketed by National Starch under the name L 200 and H 100 products for sale.

[0171] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the thickening polymer of the present invention is composed of an acrylate monomer CH2=C(R')-COOR"'(VIa) and / or an acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R")-LY - M + (VIb) is produced by (co)polymerization of (VIa) and (VIb); in the formulae (VIa) and (VIb), R' and R" may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl, preferably hydrogen, R"' represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl, carboxyl or amino groups; preferably, R"' represents a hydrogen atom, and L represents a cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O or N and containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, L represents a divalent group -[C(R')(R")] p -, wherein p represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 2 to 3, such as 2, and R' and R" are as defined above; more particularly, L represents -C(R')(R")-CH2- or -CH2-C(R')(R")-, wherein R' and R" are as defined above, and preferably R' and R" represent (C1-C4)alkyl, such as methyl; Y - represents an anionic group, such as carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, sulfonate or sulfate, preferably -S(O)2-O - , and M + is a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal such as sodium, and the copolymer may be in a direct emulsion or an inverse emulsion, preferably an inverse emulsion. More preferably, the thickening polymer of the present invention is composed of an acrylate monomer CH2=C(R')-COOH(VIa) and an acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R")-LY as defined above. - M + Copolymerization of (VIb) results.

[0172] Among the nonassociative thickening polymers without sugar units that can be used, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, alone or as a mixture.

[0173] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0174] Among homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with alkyl alcohol ethers of the sugar series, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon or Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3VSA.

[0175] The non-associative thickening polymer may also be a crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymer, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Novion.

[0176] The non-associative thickening polymer may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.

[0177] Among the partially or completely neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, mention may in particular be made of the products described in Example 1 of EP 503 853, and with regard to these polymers reference is made to said document.

[0178] The composition may similarly comprise an ammonium acrylate homopolymer or a copolymer of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide as non-associative thickening polymer.

[0179] As examples of ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 by Seppic and the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate with acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau by Hoechst or the product sold under the name PAS 5193. With regard to the description and preparation of such compounds, reference may especially be made to FR 2 416 723, US 2 798 053 ​​and US 2 923692.

[0180] Among the aqueous phase thickening polymers, mention may also be made of non-cellulose based associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and especially of a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0181] It is contemplated that "associative polymers" are polymers that are capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in aqueous media.

[0182] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0183] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0184] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. It may also represent a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0185] Among the associative polymers of anionic type, mention may be made of:

[0186] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic units consist of ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers, even more particularly vinyl carboxylic acids and most particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0187] Among these anionic associative polymers, those particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ethers and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

[0188] Among the latter polymers, those most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (steareth-10), especially those marketed by Ciba under the name Salcare SC and Salcare SC Those sold as HYDROGLYCE®, which is an aqueous 30% emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10);

[0189] -(b) comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and ii) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 ) those of the hydrophobic units of alkyl esters.

[0190] The unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0191] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents US Pat. No. 3,915,921 and US Pat. No. 4,509,949.

[0192] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, use will more particularly be made of from 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic units), 4 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 alkyl esters (hydrophobic units) and 0 to 6 wt % of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively from 98 to 96 wt % of acrylic acid (hydrophilic units), 1 to 4 wt % of acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 Those composed of an alkyl ester (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 wt % to 0.6 wt % of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described previously.

[0193] Of the polymers mentioned above, the most preferred according to the invention are those produced by Goodrich under the trade name Pemulen Pemulen Carbopol And even more preferably Pemulen Products sold by Seppic under the name Coatex Products for sale.

[0194] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl acrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP;

[0195] -(c)Maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as those marketed by Newphase Technologies under the name Performa V Products sold (Maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer);

[0196] - (d) an acrylic acid terpolymer comprising:

[0197] i) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

[0198] ii) about 20 to 80 weight percent of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant monomer other than [A],

[0199] iii) from about 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monocarbamate which is the reaction product of a monobasic surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,

[0200] terpolymers such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109, and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely the terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate ethoxylated (40EO), as an aqueous 25% dispersion;

[0201] (e) copolymers whose monomers include α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols.

[0202] Preferably, these compounds also contain as monomers esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and C1-C4 alcohols.

[0203] An example of a compound of this type that may be mentioned is Aculyn 22 sold by Rohm & Haas, a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenedimethacrylate stearate terpolymer;

[0204] (f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer carrying sulfonic acid groups in partially or completely neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0205] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers carrying sulfonic acid groups are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamide (C1-C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acid, N-(C1-C 22 )alkyl(meth)acrylamide(C1-C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid and also partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.

[0206] More preferably, (meth)acrylamide groups (C1-C 22) alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamido methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and also partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.

[0207] Use is made more particularly of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and also its partially or completely neutralized forms.

[0208] This family of polymers can be selected in particular from the group consisting of 22 Random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with n-mono- or di-n-alkylamines, as well as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154, which forms an integral part of the description. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or esters thereof with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0209] Preferred polymers of this family are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0210] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or esters thereof with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0211] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A 750 899, patent US 5 089 578 and in the following publication by Yotaro Morishima:

[0212] -Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;

[0213] -Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water asstudied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10, (2000), 3694-3704;

[0214] -Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000), 5324-5332;

[0215] -Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.

[0216] Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

[0217] - a crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or unneutralized copolymer comprising, relative to the polymer, 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C 16 ) alkyl (meth) acrylamide or (meth) acrylic acid (C8-C 16) alkyl ester units, such as those described in patent application EP-A 750 899;

[0218] - a terpolymer comprising 10 mol % to 90 mol % of acrylamide units, 0.1 mol % to 10 mol % of AMPS units and 5 mol % to 80 mol % of

[0219] n-(C6-C 18 ) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US Pat. No. 5,089,578.

[0220] Mention may also be made of completely neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the abovementioned Morishima article.

[0221] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

[0222] - (I) cationic associative polyurethane;

[0223] - (II) the compound sold under the name Aqua CC by Noveon and corresponding to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0224] Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer is the polymerization product of a monomer mixture comprising:

[0225] *Di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate,

[0226] * one or more (meth)acrylic acid C1-C 30 Alkyl esters,

[0227] *Polyethoxylated methacrylate C 10 -C 30 Alkyl ester (20-25 mol of ethyleneoxy units),

[0228] *30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether,

[0229] *Hydroxy (C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and

[0230] *Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate;

[0231] (III) quaternized (poly) hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, such as an alkyl, aralkyl or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms or a mixture thereof. The alkyl group carried by the above quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthracenyl. It can be mentioned that the alkyl group contains C8-C 30 Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses of fatty chains include the product Quatrisoft LM Quatrisoft LM-X Quatrisoft LM-X (C 12 Alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X (C 18 alkyl), and the product Crodacel sold by Croda Crodacel (C 12 Alkyl) and Crodacel (C 18 Alkyl) and the product Softcat SL sold by Ashland

[0232] - (IV) Cationic polyvinyl lactam polymer.

[0233] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0234] As poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention, use is made in particular of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium toluenesulfonate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium toluenesulfonate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium toluenesulfonate or ammonium chloride terpolymers.

[0235] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one acyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising from 1 to 20 mol %, preferably from 1.5 to 15 mol % and even more particularly from 1.5 to 6 mol % of fatty chain monomers relative to the total moles of monomers are preferred.

[0236] Amphiphilic associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0237] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, preferred ones are the acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0238] The associative polymers of nonionic type that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0239] (a) Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and aliphatic chain hydrophobic monomers, examples of which may be mentioned include:

[0240] -Antaron, a product sold by ISP or Ganex (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer),

[0241] -Antaron, a product sold by ISP or Ganex (vinyl pyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer);

[0242] (b) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, such as those marketed under the name Antil Oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold;

[0243] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymers;

[0244] (d) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks (generally of a polyoxyethylene nature) and hydrophobic blocks (which may be solely aliphatic sequences and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences);

[0245] (e) polymers having an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as Pure Compounds;

[0246] (f) cellulose or a derivative thereof, modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, such as an alkyl, aralkyl or alkaryl group or a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl group is C8, and in particular:

[0247] * Nonionic alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C 16 alkyl);

[0248] * Nonionic nonanoyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by Amerchol;

[0249] * nonionic alkylcellulose, such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel;

[0250] (g) Associative guar derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar modified with fatty chains, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 sold by the company Lamberti (with C 22 alkyl chain modified); Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with C 14 Alkyl chain modification) and product RE 205-146 (with C 20 alkyl chain modification).

[0251] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, these hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, one or more side chains can be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0252] The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (e.g. triblock copolymers with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed at the ends and in the chain (e.g. multiblock copolymers). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0253] The fatty chain nonionic polyurethane polyether may be a triblock copolymer whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyether contains urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, which is where the name comes from.

[0254] By extension, the nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0255] As examples of nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the present invention, Rheolate with urea functional groups sold by Rheox can also be used. or 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM

[0256] Also mentioned are the C 12 -C 14 Alkyl chain products Elfacos and with C 18 Alkyl chain products Elfacos

[0257] It is also possible to use a 20% solids in water, flask with C 20 Alkyl chain and urethane bond from Rohm and Haas product DW

[0258] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include the 255, 278 and 244. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm and Haas Company may also be used.

[0259] Polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0260] Even more particular preference is given to using polyurethane polyethers obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide groups, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decanol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0261] Such polyurethane polyethers are marketed in particular by Rohm and Haas under the name Aculyn and Aculyn Sales [Aculyn Aculyn is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15 wt% in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); It is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decanol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) [35% by weight].

[0262] Fatty phase thickening polymers may also be used.

[0263] Preferably, the polymers used to structure the oil phase via physical interactions are chosen from polyamides, polysiloxane polyamides, sugar or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters, N-acylamino acid amide derivatives, and copolymers comprising alkylene or styrene blocks, which copolymers may be diblock, triblock, multiblock or radial block polymers, also known as star copolymers or alternatively comb polymers.

[0264] 1) Polymers with at least one crystallizable block in the main chain

[0265] These are also polymers which are soluble or dispersible in an oily or fatty phase by heating above their melting point mp. These polymers are especially block copolymers composed of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.

[0266] As polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the main chain suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0267] i). polymers as defined in US-A-5 156 911;

[0268] ii). Block copolymers of olefins or cycloolefins containing crystallizable chains, such as those derived from the block polymerization of:

[0269] -cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e., bicyclo(2.2.1)hept-2-ene), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene,

[0270] 5-benzyl norbornene, 5-vinyl norbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethyl-1,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene, and mixtures thereof;

[0271] - with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene or 1-eicosene, or mixtures thereof. These block copolymers may in particular be (ethylene / norbornene) block copolymers and (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene norbornene) block terpolymers.

[0272] You can also use at least 2 C2-C 16 , and also better C2-C 12 Those resulting from block copolymerization of α-olefins, such as those mentioned above and in particular block binary copolymers of ethylene and 1-octene.

[0273] The copolymers contain at least one crystallizable block, the remainder of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may also contain two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. Preferred copolymers are those that contain both a crystallizable block and an amorphous block at room temperature, these blocks being both hydrophobic and lipophilic, distributed sequentially; mention may be made, for example, of polymers containing one of the following crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks:

[0274] - naturally crystallizable blocks: a) of polyester type, for example poly(alkylene terephthalates), b) of polyolefin type, for example polyethylene or polypropylene;

[0275] - an amorphous and lipophilic block, for example: an amorphous polyolefin or copoly(olefin), such as poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated poly(isoprene).

[0276] As examples of such copolymers containing crystallizable blocks and amorphous blocks, mention may be made of:

[0277] a) poly(δ-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used in hydrogenation, such as those described in the article “Melting behavior of poly(δ-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers” by S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999),

[0278] b) hydrogenated block or multi-block poly(butylene terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers, as mentioned in the paper "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995),

[0279] c) poly(ethylene)-b-co(ethylene / propylene) block copolymers, as mentioned in the article “Morphology of semicrystalline block copolymers of ethylene(ethylene-alt-propylene)” by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and in “Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)poly(ethylene-propylene)” by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-106825 (1997),

[0280] d) Poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in the general article "Crystallization in block copolymers" by IW Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, Vol. 148, 113-137 (1999).

[0281] The semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention can be non-crosslinked or partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not prevent it from being dissolved or dispersed in a liquid oil phase by heating above its melting point. It can then be the case of chemical crosslinking by reaction with polyfunctional monomers during polymerization. It can also be the case of physical crosslinking, which can then be due to the establishment of hydrogen bonds or dipole-type bonds between the groups carried by the polymer, such as dipole interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being minor and carried by the polymer backbone; or due to phase separation between crystallizable blocks carried by the polymer and amorphous blocks.

[0282] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers suitable for use in the present invention are non-crosslinked.

[0283] As specific examples of semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of the Polymers" from Landec Products. These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25° C.). They have crystallizable side chains and contain monomers. Mention may be made in particular of Landec It is a viscous, impermeable, non-tacky product at room temperature.

[0284] It is also possible to use the semicrystalline polymers described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911, which are composed of C5 to C6 acrylic acid and (meth) acrylic acid. 16 Copolymerization of alkyl esters, such as those produced by the copolymerization of:

[0285] - Acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and isodecyl acrylate in a ratio of 1 / 16 / 3,

[0286] -1 / 19 ratio of acrylic acid and pentadecyl acrylate,

[0287] - Acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate in a ratio of 2.5 / 76.5 / 20,

[0288] - Acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and methyl acrylate in a ratio of 5 / 85 / 10,

[0289] - Acrylic acid and octadecyl (meth)acrylate in a ratio of 2.5 / 97.5.

[0290] It is also possible to use the polymers "Structure O" sold by National Starch, such as the products with mp 44° C. described in US Pat. No. 5,736,125, and also semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains comprising fluorine groups, such as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of WO-A-01 / 19333.

[0291] It is also possible to use semicrystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearic acid acrylate with acrylic acid or NVP or by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate with acrylic acid or NVP, as described in US Pat. No. 5,519,063 or EP-A-0,550,745.

[0292] According to a particular embodiment variant, the semicrystalline polymers suitable for use in the invention are especially alkyl acrylates, among which mention may be made of the Landec copolymers:

[0293] -Doresco IPA Polyacrylate stearate, mp 49°C and MW 145 000;

[0294] -Doresco IPA Polyacrylate / methacrylic acid, mp 65°C and MW 114 000;

[0295] -Doresco IPA Polyacrylate / vinyl pyrrolidone, mp 44°C and MW 387,000;

[0296] -Doresco IPA Polyacrylate / hydroxyethyl methacrylate, mp 47°C and MW 397600;

[0297] -Doresco IPA Behenyl polyacrylate, mp 66°C.

[0298] 2) Non-silicone polyamide

[0299] Specific polyamides used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably those described in US Pat. No. 5,783,657 from Union Camp.

[0300] US-A-5 783 657 is incorporated by reference in its entirety with respect to these polymers.

[0301] Each of these polyamides corresponds in particular to the following formula (V):

[0302]

[0303] In formula (V):

[0304] - n indicates the total number of amide units, such that the number of ester groups is from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups;

[0305] -R 1 is independently in each case an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular 4 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0306] -R 2 In each case, C4 to C 55 Hydrocarbon-based groups, provided that at least 50% of the R 2 Group represents C 30 To C 55 hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0307] -R 3 represents, independently in each case, an organic radical having at least 2 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and

[0308] -R 4 represents independently in each case a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C 10 Alkyl or with R 3 or with another R4 The direct bond of bonding makes R 3 and R 4 The nitrogen atom attached is R 4 -NR 3 A portion of a heterocyclic structure defined as a 4 The radical represents a hydrogen atom.

[0309] In particular, the ester groups of this polyamide represent 15% to 40% and better still 20% to 35% of the total number of ester and amide groups. Furthermore, n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 10 and better still from 1 to 5, both inclusive.

[0310] Preferably, R 1 It is C 12 To C 22 And preferably C 16 To C 22 Advantageously, R 2 Can be C 10 To C 42 Preferably, at least 50% and better still at least 75% of the R 2 The group is a group containing 30 to 42 carbon atoms. 2 It is a hydrogenated C4 to C 19 And preferably C4 to C 12 Preferably, R 3 Indicates C2 to C 36 A hydrocarbon-based group or a polyoxyalkylene group, and R 4 Preferably, R 3 Indicates C2 to C 12 Hydrocarbon-based groups. Hydrocarbon-based groups can be linear, cyclic or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups. In addition, alkyl and alkylene groups can be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups.

[0311] Thickening of the oil phase may be obtained by one or more of the polyamides defined above. Generally, these polyamides are in the form of mixtures which may also contain synthesis products corresponding to the polyamides defined above in which n is 0, ie diesters.

[0312] As structured polyamides that can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of aliphatic dicarboxylic acids and diamines (including compounds containing more than two carboxyl groups and more than two amine groups, respectively), the carboxyl groups and amine groups of adjacent individual units being condensed in the form of amide bonds. These polyamide resins are especially marketed by General Mills, Inc. under the trade name Versamid and by Henkel Corp. under the trade name In particular S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. For further information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-3 645 705 and US-A-3 148 125. More particularly, 30 or 744.

[0313] It is also possible to use polyamides sold or manufactured by Arizona under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and products sold by Henkel under the reference Macromelt 6212. For further information on these polyamides, reference is made to US Pat. No. 5,500,209.

[0314] As examples of structured polyamides that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of the commercial products sold or manufactured by the Arizona Chemical Company under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold in the form of 80% (active material) gel and 100% (active material) gel, respectively, in mineral oil. They have a softening point of 88° C. to 105° C. These commercial products are mixtures of copolymers of C36 diacids combined with ethylenediamine, having an average molecular weight of about 6000. The ester end groups result from the esterification of the remaining acidic end groups with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof, also known as cetearyl alcohol.

[0315] 2) Monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters of sugars or polysaccharides

[0316] Among the sugar or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of dextrin or inulin alkyl or polyalkyl esters.

[0317] It may especially be a dextrin monoester or polyester of at least one fatty acid, especially corresponding to the following formula (VI):

[0318]

[0319] In formula (VI):

[0320] - n is an integer ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150 and especially ranging from 25 to 50,

[0321] - R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and acyl (RC(O)-), wherein the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing 7 to 29, in particular 7 to 21, especially 11 to 19, more particularly 13 to 17 or even 15 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 is not hydrogen.

[0322] In particular, R1, R2 and R3 may represent hydrogen or an acyl group (RC(O)-), wherein R is a hydrocarbon-based group as defined above, provided that at least two of said groups R1, R2 or R3 are identical and are not hydrogen.

[0323] The radicals R1, R2 and R3 may all contain acyl groups (RC(O)-) which may be identical or different and in particular are identical.

[0324] In particular, the previously mentioned range of n is advantageously between 25 and 50 and is especially equal to 38 in the general formula of the sugar ester that can be used in the invention.

[0325] In particular, when the radicals R1, R2 and / or R3 (identical or different) contain acyl groups (RC(O)), these radicals may be selected in particular from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitoyl, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitoyl, isoheptanoic acid, stearyl, isoarachidoyl, isocaproyl, decenoyl, dodecenoyl, tetradecenoyl, myristoleoyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, octadecatetraenoyl, arachidonic and stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0326] Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as the fatty acid ester of dextrin. This ester can be used alone or as a mixture with other esters.

[0327] Advantageously, the fatty acid esters of dextrin have a degree of substitution based on one glucose unit of less than or equal to 2.5, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 and preferably from 2 to 2.5. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin esters may in particular be from 10 000 to 150 000, in particular from 12 000 to 100 000 and even from 15 000 to 80 000.

[0328] Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitate, are commercially available from the company Chiba Flour under the name Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL.

[0329] 3) N-acylamino acid amide derivatives

[0330] N-acylamino acid amides that can be used are, for example, diamides from combinations of N-acylamino acids with amines containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in FR 2 281 162. They are, for example, alkylglutamic acid amide derivatives, such as laurylglutamic acid dibutylamide sold under the name Gelling Agent GP-1 by Ajinomoto, or alternatively 2-ethylhexylglutamic acid dibutylamide sold under the name Gelling Agent GA-01 by Ajinomoto.

[0331] 4) Copolymers containing olefin or styrene blocks

[0332] The copolymers may have a comb-like structure or a block structure of the diblock, triblock, multiblock and / or radial or star type and may contain at least two thermodynamically incompatible segments.

[0333] The structurant may comprise, for example, styrene segment blocks as described in patent applications EP 0 497 144, WO 98 / 42298, US 6 225 690, US 6 174 968 and US 6 225 390, ethylene / butylene segments or ethylene / propylene segments as described in patent applications US 6 225 690, US 6 174 968 and US 6 225 390, butadiene segments, isoprene segments, polyvinyl segments, for example polyalkyl (meth)acrylates or polyvinyl alcohols or polyvinyl acetates, silicone segments as described in patent applications US 5 468 477 and US 5 725 882, or combinations of these segments.

[0334] Diblock copolymers are generally defined as AB type, where a hard segment (A) is followed by a soft segment (B).

[0335] Triblock copolymers are generally defined as ABA type or ratios of hard segments, soft segments, and hard segments.

[0336] The multi-block, radial or star copolymers may contain any type of combination of hard and soft segments, provided that the characteristics of the hard and soft segments are maintained.

[0337] An example of a hard segment of a block copolymer that may be mentioned is styrene, and examples of a soft segment of a block copolymer that may be mentioned include ethylene, propylene and butylene, and combinations thereof.

[0338] Triblock copolymers suitable for the invention, and in particular those of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, may be those sold under the reference Luvitol HSB by the company BASF. Mention may also be made of triblock copolymers of the polystyrene / co-(ethylene-propylene) or polystyrene / co-(ethylene-butylene) type, such as those sold under the reference Kraton by Shell Chemical Co. or GelledPermethyl 99A by the company Penreco. Such triblock copolymers are particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0339] As further examples of block copolymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of the block copolymers sold under the reference Versagel by the company Penreco, those sold under the reference Kraton by Shell and those sold under the reference Gel Base by Brooks Industries.

[0340] Among the fatty phase thickening polymers, polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the main chain are preferred.

[0341] The aqueous or fatty phase thickening polymers can be used individually or as mixtures in all ratios.

[0342] Preferably, the thickener is a water phase thickener.

[0343] Preferably, the polymer in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in solution or in dispersion at 1% active material in water for 200 s. -1 The present invention has a viscosity greater than 0.1 ps and even more advantageously greater than 0.2 cp measured at 25° C. using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer at a shear rate of 1.5 %.

[0344] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickening polymer of the present invention is non-associative and preferably consists of acrylate monomers CH2=C(R')-COOR"' (VIa) and / or acrylamide monomers CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R")-LY - M +wherein R' and R" may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group such as a methyl group, preferably hydrogen, R"' represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, carboxyl or amino groups, and L represents a cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally inserted or substituted with one or more heteroatoms such as O or N and containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, L represents a divalent group -[C(R')(R")] p -, wherein p represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 2 to 3 such as 2, R' and R" are as defined above; more particularly, L represents -C(R')(R")-CH2- or -CH2-C(R')(R")-, wherein R' and R" are as defined above; preferably, R' and R" represent (1-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl; Y- represents an anionic group such as carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, sulfonate or sulfate, preferably -S(O)2-O - , and M + is a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal such as sodium, and the copolymer may be in a direct emulsion or an inverse emulsion, preferably an inverse emulsion. More preferably, the thickening polymer of the present invention is composed of an acrylate monomer CH2=C(R')-COOH(VIa) and an acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R")-LY as defined above. - M + Among the thickening polymers, the following may be mentioned: preferably the organic thickening polymer is selected from crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylic acid copolymers or methacrylic acid copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, alone or as a mixture.

[0345] According to an advantageous variant, the composition of the invention comprises one or more associative or non-associative thickening polymers, preferably non-associative, comprising sugar units derived in particular from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose, preferably anhydrogalactose galactose, preferably agar.

[0346] Preferably, the organic thickening polymer is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0347] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty substance / surfactant weight ratio is between 5 and 20, preferably between 8 and 15, even more preferably between 10 and 13, such as 11.8, inclusive.

[0348] According to one embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of fatty substance / sum of surfactant and polymer [surfactant+polymer] is 0.8 to 10, particularly 1 to 5, more particularly 1.5 to 2.5, such as 1.8 or 1.9, preferably 1.9.

[0349] v) Fatty substances

[0350] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention further comprises v) one or more fatty substances. In particular, the fatty substances of the present invention are not oxyalkylened.

[0351] Preferably, the fatty substance of the present invention is selected from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers, or mixtures thereof.

[0352] The fat substance of the present invention is at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013×10 5 Pa) can be liquid or non-liquid.

[0353] The liquid fatty substance of the invention preferably has a viscosity, at a temperature of 25° C. and a shear rate of 1 s −1 , less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s.

[0354] The term "liquid hydrocarbon" means a hydrocarbon composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is 5 Pa) is liquid.

[0355] More specifically, the liquid hydrocarbon is selected from:

[0356] - straight-chain or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0357] - straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic, animal or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane.

[0358] In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon is chosen from liquid paraffin and liquid petrolatum.

[0359] The term "liquid fatty alcohol" means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylened fatty alcohol which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013×10 5 Pa) is liquid.

[0360] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the present invention contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably C 10 -C 22 , even more preferably C 14 -C 20 , and better C 16 -C 18 .

[0361] The liquid fatty alcohols of the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0362] The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring in their structure. Preferably, they are acyclic.

[0363] More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohol according to the invention is chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol or 2-hexyldecanol.

[0364] According to another variant of the invention, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols. These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain at least one double bond or triple bond in their structure. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention have one or more double bonds in their structure. When several double bonds are present, preferably two or three double bonds are present, and they may be conjugated or non-conjugated.

[0365] These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be straight chain or branched chain.

[0366] They may optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring in their structure. Preferably, they are acyclic.

[0367] More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the present invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol and undecenyl alcohol.

[0368] Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.

[0369] The term "liquid fatty ester" means an ester derived from fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and which is soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1.013×10 5 Pa) is liquid.

[0370] The ester is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic monobasic or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C 26Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols having a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 10.

[0371] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0372] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C 10 -C 22 , and preferably C 12 -C 20 Alkyl (iso) stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate.

[0373] You can also use C4-C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and non-sugar di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydroxy C4-C 26 Esters of alcohols.

[0374] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl tricaprylate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0375] The composition may also contain C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids as liquid fatty esters. It should be remembered that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds with several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0376] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0377] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the sugars described previously and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 And preferably C12 -C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0378] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0379] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates or mixtures thereof, such as in particular mixed esters of oleyl palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.

[0380] Use is more particularly made of the mono- and diesters and especially of the mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0381] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name DO sells a product which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0382] Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic glycerides of mono-, di- or triglycerides.

[0383] Among these, mention may be made of vegetable oils.

[0384] As oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used as liquid fatty esters in the compositions of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

[0385] - triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the name those sold at 810, 812 and 818, jojoba and shea butter;

[0386] Preferably, liquid fatty esters derived from monohydric alcohols will be used as esters according to the invention.

[0387] Isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate are preferred.

[0388] The term "liquid silicone" means silicone that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013×10 5 Pa) is liquid.

[0389] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aromatic group.

[0390] These silicones may also be organomodified.The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the invention are liquid silicones as defined previously and that contain in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0391] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0392] When they are volatile, these silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from:

[0393] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, commercially available under the name Volatile 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Silicone 7158, by Rhodia Company under the name decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 70045 V5 and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and also mixtures thereof.

[0394] Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the silicones sold by Union Carbide Company having the formula FZ 3109:

[0395]

[0396] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0397] (ii) contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a carbon content of less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2 Straight-chain volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 1000 % to 2000 % / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics by Todd & Byers, published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25° C. according to standard ASTM 445, Annex C.

[0398] Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used.

[0399] These nonvolatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes carrying trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0400] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made in a non-limiting manner of the following commercial products:

[0401] - 47 and 70047 series sold by Rhodia Oil or Oil, for example oil 70047 V 500 000;

[0402] - Marketed by Rhodia Series of oils;

[0403] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as those with 60 000 mm 2 / s viscosity DC200;

[0404] - From General Electric oils, and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0405] Mention may also be made of the polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0406] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the names:

[0407] - 70 641 series from Rhodia Oil;

[0408] -From Rhodia Oils of the 70633 and 763 series;

[0409] - oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

[0410] - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0411] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0412] The organomodified liquid silicones may contain, in particular, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu, and the oil L722 and L77.

[0413] The liquid fatty ether is selected from liquid dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0414] The fatty substance may be non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

[0415] The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a -1 A compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of

[0416] More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substance is chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones or fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.

[0417] The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for use in the present invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, these alcohols being more preferably C 10 -C 22 , even more preferably C14 -C 20 , and better C 16 -C 18 .

[0418] Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol) are most particularly preferred.

[0419] As regards the non-liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, mention may be made in particular of esters derived from C9-C 26 Fatty acids and C9-C 26 Solid esters of fatty alcohols.

[0420] Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl nonanoate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myristate.

[0421] Still in the context of this variant, C4-C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2-C 26 Esters of dihydric, trihydric, tetrahydric or pentahydric alcohols.

[0422] Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dioctyl maleate.

[0423] Among all the additional esters mentioned above, preference is given to using myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate and stearyl myristyl myristate.

[0424] The (non-silicone) waxes are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, vegetable waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or flower absolute waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswax or modified cerabellina; white beeswax, such as those sold by Koster Keunen; in general, other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes, such as the products sold by Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes.

[0425] The non-liquid silicone according to the present invention may be in the form of a wax, a resin or a glue.

[0426] Preferably, the non-liquid silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

[0427] Silicone gums that can be used according to the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with a high number-average molecular weight of 200 000 to 1 000 000, used alone or in the form of a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylene, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0428] More particularly, the products that can be used according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0429] - mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethiconols (CTFA) with hydroxyl-terminated chains and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q21401 sold by the company Dow Corning;

[0430] - mixtures of dimethicone gum and cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric; this product is SF 30 gum corresponding to dimethicone with a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentane;

[0431] - a mixture of two PDMS with different viscosities, and more particularly a mixture of PDMS glue and PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a PDMS having a viscosity of 20 m / s as defined above. 2 / s viscosity of glue SE 30 and 5×10 6 m 2 / s and an oil SF 96. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 and 85% of SF 96.

[0432] The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems comprising the following units:

[0433] R2SiO 2 / 2 、R3SiO 1 / 2 、RSiO 3 / 2 and SiO 4 / 2 ,

[0434] In this formula:

[0435] R may be identical or different, preferably identical, and represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, particularly preferred products are those in which R represents a C1-C4 lower alkyl group (more particularly a methyl group).

[0436] Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold by the General Electric Company under the names Silicone Fluids SS 4230 and SS 4267, which are silicones with a dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure.

[0437] Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular by the company Shin-Etsu under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037.

[0438] Among the other organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes, including:

[0439] - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. Substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4-aminoalkyl groups;

[0440] - alkoxylated groups, for example those marketed under the name Abil Products sold in 2428, 2434 and 2440.

[0441] The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and especially dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

[0442] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more identical or different butters, preferably butters of vegetable origin.

[0443] According to a preferred mode of the present invention, C 16 The weight content of fatty acid triglycerides, expressed relative to the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides in the fat according to the invention, is less than 23%.

[0444] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat" (also called "pasty fatty substance") means a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprises a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 25°C. The liquid portion of the pasty compound measured at 25°C may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This portion that is liquid at 25°C preferably represents 15% to 85% by weight, more preferably 40% to 85% by weight.

[0445] Preferably, the lipid has an endpoint melting point below 60°C.

[0446] Preferably, the grease has a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.

[0447] Preferably, the pasty fatty substance has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state which is visible by X-ray observation.

[0448] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0449] Regarding the measurement of melting point and determination of endpoint melting point, the sample preparation and measurement scheme are as follows:

[0450] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80°C and taken out under magnetic stirring using a spatula, also heated, is placed in a sealed aluminum capsule or crucible. The test is performed twice to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

[0451] The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter described above. The oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is carried out by means of an RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following scheme: it is first placed at a temperature of 20°C and then subjected to a first temperature increase of 20°C to 80°C (with a heating rate of 5°C / min), it is then cooled from 80°C to -80°C (with a cooling rate of 5°C / min) and finally subjected to a second temperature increase of -80°C to 80°C (with a heating rate of 5°C / min). During the second temperature increase, the variation of the difference in energy absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the fat sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of a compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in energy absorbed as the temperature varies.

[0452] The endpoint melting point corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melts.

[0453] The liquid fraction by weight of the fat at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the fat.

[0454] The heat of fusion of a pasty compound is the amount of heat consumed by the compound in order to change from a solid state to a liquid state. When the entire mass of a fat is in the form of a crystalline solid, it is said to be in the solid state. When the entire mass of a fat is in the form of a liquid, it is said to be in the liquid state.

[0455] The heat of fusion of a fat is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the above calorimeter according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999, with a temperature increase of 5°C or 10°C / min. The heat of fusion of a fat is the amount of energy required to change a compound from solid to liquid. It is expressed in J / g.

[0456] The heat of fusion consumed at 25°C is the amount of energy absorbed by a sample to change from a solid state to a state consisting of a liquid portion and a solid portion at 25°C.

[0457] The liquid fraction of the fat measured at 32° C. preferably represents 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50% to 100% by weight of the compound, more preferably 60% to 100% by weight. When the liquid fraction of the fat measured at 32° C. is equal to 100%, the end point temperature of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32° C.

[0458] The liquid fraction of the fat measured at 32° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C.

[0459] Regarding the hardness measurement, the sample preparation and measurement scheme are as follows:

[0460] The composition or grease according to the invention is placed in a mold having a diameter of 75 mm, which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal history and control crystallization, the mold is placed VC0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C (at a cooling rate of 5°C / min), and then allowed to stand at a stable temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, and then subjected to a temperature increase ranging from 0°C to 20°C (at a heating rate of 5°C / min), and then allowed to stand at a stable temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.

[0461] Compression force measurements were performed using a TA / TX2i texture meter from Swantech. The spindle used was selected based on the texture:

[0462] - Cylindrical steel spindle with a diameter of 2 mm for very hard starting materials;

[0463] - Cylindrical steel spindle with a diameter of 12 mm for use with starting materials that are not very hard.

[0464] The measurement consists of three steps:

[0465] - a first step after automatic detection of the sample surface, in which the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s and penetrates into the composition or lipid according to the invention to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, and the software records the maximum force value reached;

[0466] - a second step, called relaxation, in which the spindle remains in this position for one second and the force is recorded after 1 second of relaxation; and finally

[0467] - A third step, called extraction, in which the spindle returns to its original position at a speed of 1 mm / s and the extraction energy (negative force) of the probe is recorded.

[0468] The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compressive force measured in Newtons divided by the thickness in mm of the contact with the grease or composition according to the invention. 2 The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.

[0469] According to a preferred mode of the invention, the specific fats are of vegetable origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published online: June 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea butter, Borneo butter and related fats (vegetable fats)).

[0470] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii) shea butter, shea oil (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawan butter (Shoreastenoptera), Sal resin, madhuca butter, Madhuca butter or Brazilian madhuca longifolia butter, basil seed butter (Madhucalatifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), star palm butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), garcinia seed butter (Garcinia indica), yellow wax resin (Virola The fats according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of palm fat, cinnamon, citrus aurantium, tucuma fat, painya fat (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee fat (Coffea arabica), apricot fat (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia fat (Macadamiaternifolia), grape seed fat (Vitis vinifera), avocado fat (Perseagratissima), olive fat (Olea europaea), sweet almond fat (Prunus amygdalusdulcis) and sunflower fat. Preferably, the fats according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of palm fat, cinnamon, sal resin, icewort, shea butter and gulpua butter, and even more preferably shea butter.

[0471] In a preferred variant of the invention, C 16The weight content of fatty acid triglycerides, expressed relative to the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides, ranges from 0 to 22%, better still from 0 to 15% and even better still from 2% to 12%.

[0472] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more lipids in an amount ranging in particular from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0473] Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains one or more 5 Pa), optionally in combination with one or more fatty substances which are non-liquid under the same conditions.

[0474] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from

[0475] a) a fat, preferably shea butter;

[0476] b) wax, preferably beeswax;

[0477] c) non-liquid fatty alcohols, in particular chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms - the alcohols are preferably C 10 -C 22 Alcohol, more preferably C 14 -C 20 Alcohol, better C 16 -C 18 Alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol - and mixtures thereof;

[0478] d) non-liquid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, especially those derived from C9-C 26 Fatty acids and C9-C 26 solid esters of fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myristate;

[0479] e) esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the ester is derived is branched, such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C 10 -C 22 , preferably C 12 -C 20 Alkyl (iso) stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate;

[0480] f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, and also mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane;

[0481] g) Oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pith oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, shea butter, preferably caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0482] The fatty substance used in the composition according to the invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0483] vi) Alkaline agent:

[0484] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises vi) one or more alkaline agents (also called bases). This agent can be selected from inorganic or organic or mixed alkaline agents or mixtures thereof.

[0485] The inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from aqueous ammonia, alkaline carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate and sodium or potassium bicarbonate, sodium or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.

[0486] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkaline agent or agents are organic amines, ie they contain at least one substituted or unsubstituted amino group.

[0487] The organic alkaline agent is more preferably selected from organic alkaline agents having a pK at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. b It should be noted that it is the pK corresponding to the functional group with the highest basicity. b .

[0488] Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the previously mentioned amines with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.

[0489] The organic alkaline agent is selected from, for example, alkanolamines, oxyethylenediamines and / or oxypropylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (IV):

[0490]

[0491] In the formula (IV):

[0492] -W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, optionally substituted by hydroxyl or C1-C6 alkyl, and / or optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NR u insert;

[0493] -R x , R y , R z , R t and R u , which are the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group.

[0494] Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

[0495] The term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0496] Alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines containing 1 to 3 identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0497] Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0498] More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and contain at least one acid function more particularly chosen from: carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

[0499] As amino acids that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0500] Advantageously, the amino acid is a basic amino acid comprising an additional amine function, optionally contained in a ring or ureido function, and in particular is chosen from among histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0501] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. In addition to histidine already mentioned among the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

[0502] The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and balenine.

[0503] The organic amine is chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. As amines of this type that can be used in the present invention, in addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made notably of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, guanidinoacetic acid, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

[0504] Mention may be made in particular of the use of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.

[0505] The composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines and / or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously one or more alkanolamines. Even more preferably, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.

[0506] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent.

[0507] Preferably, the alkanolamine is triethanolamine.

[0508] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of alkaline agent ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0509] Composition

[0510] The subject of the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0511] i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above;

[0512] ii) one or more preservatives as defined above and different from i) and / or one or more antioxidants, preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone;

[0513] iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants;

[0514] iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; and

[0515] v) optionally one or more fatty substances as defined above.

[0516] According to one variant of the invention, the composition comprises:

[0517] i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above;

[0518] ii) one or more preservatives different from those in i);

[0519] iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants;

[0520] iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; and

[0521] v) optionally one or more fatty substances as defined above.

[0522] According to one variant of the invention, the composition comprises:

[0523] i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above;

[0524] ii) one or more antioxidants as defined above, preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone;

[0525] iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants;

[0526] iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; and

[0527] v) optionally one or more fatty substances as defined above.

[0528] According to yet another variant of the invention, the composition comprises:

[0529] i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds as defined above;

[0530] ii) one or more preservatives as defined above and different from i) and one or more antioxidants, preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone;

[0531] iii) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants;

[0532] iv) one or more, preferably organic, thickening polymers as defined above; and

[0533] v) optionally one or more fatty substances as defined above.

[0534] The composition is a physiologically acceptable medium. The composition is in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical or dermatological composition. The composition may also be a food (nutraceutical) composition.

[0535] Physiologically acceptable medium:

[0536] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for application to keratin materials, also called formulation carrier, being a cosmetic or pharmaceutical medium generally constituted by water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents. Preferably, the composition comprises water, especially in a content including values ​​of 5% to 99.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably including values ​​of 10% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably including values ​​of 20% to 80% by weight.

[0537] Organic solvents:

[0538] The term "organic solvent" means an organic substance that is capable of dissolving another substance without chemically altering it.

[0539] Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25° C.), in particular chosen from polyols containing in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0540] According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises one or more polyols, especially chosen from polyols especially containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol.

[0541] In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is used in combination with an effective amount of at least one organic solvent, which can be selected from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing 8 ethylene glycol units), propylene carbonate, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and PEG-4.

[0542] Preferably, the organic solvent is selected from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, PEG-8 and propylene carbonate.

[0543] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises 1,3-propylene glycol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, especially relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0544] For food compositions, water and those suitable for food use, such as ethanol, are preferred as organic solvents.

[0545] The organic solvent is preferably present in proportions preferably including values ​​of about 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably including values ​​of about 1% to 20% by weight and even more particularly including values ​​of 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0546] pH:

[0547] The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between about 2 and 12 inclusive and preferably between about 3 and 11. It can be adjusted to the desired value with the aid of acidifying or alkalinizing agents commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.

[0548] The pH of the composition is preferably between 4.5 and 10, particularly between 6 and 9, more particularly between 7 and 9, and even more particularly about a neutral pH of 7, inclusive.

[0549] Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include the inorganic or organic acids as defined above, especially hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0550] Among the bases or alkaline agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines and other alkaline agents as defined below, preferably alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

[0551] Preferably, the composition contains i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and also its organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and its solvates such as hydrates, in an amount ranging from 0.02% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.03% to 1% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.04% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0552] A subject of the present invention is also a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the antimicrobial mixture previously described.

[0553] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with human keratin materials such as the skin, scalp, nails and keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0554] The medium may contain one or more additional ingredients other than ingredients i) and ii).

[0555] The composition may comprise one or more additional ingredients or adjuvants chosen from: gelling agents other than organic thickening polymers as defined above, non-anionic, cationic, nonionic or zwitterionic, natural or synthetic, film-forming or non-film-forming non-thickening polymers, coloring materials such as organic or inorganic pigments, fragrances, fillers, UV screening agents, plant extracts, cosmetic and dermatological active agents, and salts.

[0556] The composition according to the invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple emulsion (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O), an oily solution, an oily gel, an aqueous solution, an aqueous gel, or a solid composition. The composition of the invention is prepared according to a conventional method.

[0557] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises water, ie is aqueous. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase and an organic phase or an oil phase. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a direct emulsion of the O / W type.

[0558] The compositions according to the invention may be generally fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, emulsion, lotion, serum, paste or foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example, in the form of a stick or a compacted powder.

[0559] The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of:

[0560] - cosmetic products, in particular for applying make-up to the skin of the face, body, or the lips or eyelashes;

[0561] - after-shave gels or lotions; shaving products;

[0562] - Deodorants (stick, roll-on or aerosol);

[0563] - Hair removal cream;

[0564] - body care compositions, such as shower gels or shampoos;

[0565] - pharmaceutical compositions;

[0566] - solid compositions such as soaps or cleansing bars;

[0567] - an aerosol composition further comprising a pressurized propellant;

[0568] - a hair setting lotion, a hair styling cream or gel, a dyeing composition, a permanent waving composition, a lotion or gel to combat hair loss, or a hair care product;

[0569] - Compositions for caring for or cleansing the skin.

[0570] Method for preparing the composition:

[0571] The subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical or food composition, comprising the step of mixing i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, or an alkali salt or solvate thereof, ii) 4-hydroxyphenylethanone or an alkali salt or solvate thereof, and optionally one or more additional ingredients or auxiliaries, in particular cosmetic or pharmaceutical or food ingredients or auxiliaries, such as those described previously, and optionally water, and one or more organic solvents.

[0572] Antimicrobial activity and uses:

[0573] The antimicrobial activity, especially the synergistic antimicrobial activity, of the mixtures i) and ii) according to the invention against fungi, in particular against the species Candida albicans, is valuable in water treatment. In particular, fungi represent one of the sources of water contamination, as mentioned in the following article: "Fungal Contaminants in drinking water regulation? A tale of ecology, exposure, purification and clinical relevance" Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2017, 14, 636.

[0574] The invention also relates to the use of the antimicrobial mixture in the treatment of water, wherein the water is selected from domestic or industrial water, water from aquatic media, swimming pool / spa water and water from air conditioning systems.

[0575] The term "water treatment" refers to a continuous or discontinuous (intermittent) treatment which involves the addition of substances to a water sample or a water stream to be treated for the purpose of protecting the water from contaminants or partially or completely purifying the water to be treated of said contaminants.

[0576] Preferably, the water treatment performed in the context of the present invention comprises the continuous or discontinuous addition of substances to a water sample to be treated or to a water stream to be treated in order to partially or completely purify said water to be treated of pollutants.

[0577] Contaminants may be microorganisms, in particular bacteria and / or fungi.

[0578] Even more preferably, the water treatment is the treatment of water contaminated with one or more microorganisms, preferably with Gram-positive or Gram-negative bacteria or fungi of the species Enterococcus faecalis, Candida albicans or Pseudomonas aeruginosa.

[0579] The term "water from an aquatic medium" means water from lakes, tributaries, ponds, mainstem rivers, the ocean or marine bathing areas, groundwater such as well water and surface water and aquarium water.

[0580] For the purposes of the present invention, "domestic or industrial water" comprises waste water before it is treated in a purification plant, water treated in a purification plant, water before it is treated in a drinking water plant, water treated in a drinking water plant, and also water that circulates in a potable or non-potable urban network, for example water that circulates in pipes.

[0581] The present invention also relates to a continuous or discontinuous water treatment method, comprising at least one step of placing a water sample to be treated or a water flow to be treated in contact with an antimicrobial mixture according to the present invention, wherein the water to be treated is selected from domestic or industrial water, water from aquatic media, swimming pool / spa water and water from air conditioning systems.

[0582] Preferably, said step of placing the water to be treated in contact with the antimicrobial mixture according to the invention can be carried out, in particular, by injecting said compound in liquid form, through a filter or cartridge containing said compound or by applying said compound in solid form, in particular in the form of granules, tablets or pellets.

[0583] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and also its organic or inorganic acid salts or base salts, and its solvates such as hydrates can be used in a proportion of at least 0.06% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, and even better at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the water to be treated. In a specific embodiment, the compound of formula (I) or (I') or its solvate such as hydrate can be used in a proportion of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the water to be treated.

[0584] i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one and also its organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and its solvates such as hydrates can be used in a concentration ranging from 0.06% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water to be treated. In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one can be used in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water to be treated.

[0585] The solvent may be used in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10 wt % relative to the total weight of the water to be treated, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5 wt % and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 2.5 wt % relative to the total weight of the water to be treated.

[0586] The following examples illustrate the present invention in more detail. The contents of the ingredients are expressed in weight percentages.

[0587] Examples

[0588] Example 1: Determination of synergistic antimicrobial activity as MIC

[0589] The synergistic antimicrobial activity effect of the mixture of 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one (referred to as substance A) and the alcohol compound (referred to as substance B) was demonstrated by calculating the synergy index (or FIC index) according to the following formula:

[0590] [Mathematical formula 1]

[0591] FIC index = (MIC of A and B / MIC of A) + (MIC of B and A / MIC of B)

[0592] in:

[0593] - MIC of A and B: the minimum concentration of product A in the combination A+B that enables an inhibitory effect;

[0594] -MIC of B to A: the minimum concentration of product B in the combination A+B that enables an inhibitory effect

[0595] -MIC of A: Minimum inhibitory concentration of product A alone;

[0596] -MIC of B: Minimum inhibitory concentration of product B alone.

[0597] This formula was first described in the following article: FC Kull, PC Eisman, HD Sylwestrowka, and RL Mayer, Applied Microbiology 9:538-541,1961.

[0598] For each individual compound tested, the MIC was considered to be the first concentration that enabled a microbial growth percentage of less than or equal to 25% to be obtained.

[0599] For the combinations tested, the MIC of A to B and the MIC of B to A are the concentrations of A and B, respectively, in the combination that enable a microbial growth percentage of less than or equal to 25% to be obtained.

[0600] Interpretation of the FIC Index :

[0601] When the FIC index value is less than or equal to 1, the combination of test compounds is considered to have a synergistic effect.

[0602] A summary of the results obtained is presented in the table below.

[0603] The combination of Compounds A and B and compositions containing the combination were tested on the following strains or parts thereof: Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans.

[0604] The microbial strain Aspergillus niger ATCC6275 was used, and polyoxyethylated (20OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (Tween 40 from Croda) and BioReagent supplemented double concentration Sabouraud broth liquid medium (ie, a mixture of 5 g Phytagel + 0.6 g Tween 40 + 60 g Sabouraud broth).

[0605] Microbial strain Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 and double concentration nutrient broth liquid culture medium were used.

[0606] Microbial strain Candida albicans ATCC 10231 and double-concentration Sabouraud broth liquid culture medium (ie, a mixture of 5 g of Phytagel + 0.6 g of Tween 40 + 60 g of Sabouraud broth) were used.

[0607] A 96-well microplate was used with an incubation temperature of 32.5°C.

[0608] The incubation time for the microplate is:

[0609] - For Aspergillus niger ATCC 6275, 24 to 30 h under aerobic conditions;

[0610] - For Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027 and Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, 18 to 24 h under aerobic conditions;

[0611] test

[0612] For each compound:

[0613] A = Compound i) 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one

[0614] B = Compound ii) Preservatives and / or antioxidants:

[0615] B1: 4-Hydroxyacetophenone, B2: Salicylic acid

[0616] Testing of individual compounds A and B

[0617] 50 μl of each of the obtained sub-solutions containing compound A or B was added to a microplate well. 100 μl of Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth inoculated with Aspergillus niger strain at double concentration and 50 μl of the solution were also added thereto.

[0618] Testing of Compounds A and B as a Mixture

[0619] 50 μl of each of the obtained sub-solutions containing compound A and 50 μl of each of the obtained sub-solutions containing compound B were added to the microtiter plate wells. 100 μl of Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth inoculated with the strain Aspergillus niger at double concentration was also added thereto.

[0620] Microbial growth control

[0621] A positive microbial growth control was also prepared. The positive microbial growth control corresponded to a mixture of 100 μl of 1‰ agar in water in the absence of compounds A and B and 100 μl of Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth inoculated with the strain Aspergillus niger at double concentration.

[0622] Absorbance comparison of individual compounds A and B

[0623] Absorbance controls were performed in parallel on individual compounds A and B. This control corresponded to 100 μl of double strength sterile Sabouraud liquid nutrient broth + 100 μl of double strength compound A or B.

[0624] In all three cases (absorbance control, growth control and test), the final volume present in each microplate well was 200 μl.

[0625] In both cases (test and control), the inoculum represents the concentration of the A. niger strain present in the final volume of the well (200 μl) and ranges from 2 to 6 × 10 5 cfu / ml of Aspergillus niger.

[0626] The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of compounds A and B, each alone or in combination, was determined in a known manner by optical density measurement at a wavelength of 620 nm.

[0627] The test as described above (test, absorbance control and growth control) was performed again to test the combination A+B on the following strains: Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans.

[0628] The following results were obtained, where compound B1 = 4-hydroxyphenyl acetone:

[0629] Other compositions were also evaluated for antimicrobial properties, such as those detailed in Table 3 below, where ingredients are given by weight (g) per 100 g of composition. Properties were evaluated at 7 days, 14 days and 1 month.

[0630] [Table 1]

[0631]

[0632]

[0633] The results for the microbial strain E. coli at 7 days are given in the table below:

[0634] [Table 2]

[0635] Composition Microbial count after 7 days Composition 1 (present invention) <200 Composition 2 (comparative) <![CDATA[2.4×10 4 ]]> Composition 3 (comparative) <![CDATA[2.1×10 5 ]]>

[0636] The results for the microbial strain Staphylococcus aureus at 7 and 14 days are given in the table below:

[0637] [Table 3]

[0638]

[0639] The results for the other microbial strains at 7 days, 14 days and then 1 month are given in the table below:

[0640] [Table 4]

[0641]

[0642] As can be seen from the results in the table above, the combination of A and B1 according to the invention allows a significant antimicrobial improvement against various microbial strains (Aspergillus niger, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans), this after 7 days, 15 days or even 1 month.

[0643] The following composition was prepared wherein ii) Compound B2 = salicylic acid:

[0644] [Table 5]

[0645]

[0646]

[0647] It can be seen that comparative composition 5, which contains a cationic surfactant, is much more unstable than composition 4 according to the invention. Furthermore, the viscosity of composition 4 according to the invention is 32.5 poise, whereas comparative composition 5 is much more viscous, as its viscosity is 51.5 poise. These viscosity values ​​are measured at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

[0648] Other comparative tests:

[0649] The following two compositions were prepared: The amounts of these ingredients are given in g / 100 g of composition:

[0650] [Table 6]

[0651]

[0652]

[0653] The composition according to the invention is shiny, aerated, white and has a "base" scent.

[0654] Microscopic evaluation of composition:

[0655] As seen under a white light microscope (Leica DM2500 with Archimed Microvision software) at a magnification of 400 times, comparative composition 6 contained cavitation bubbles, whereas composition 7 according to the invention was more structured, with no visible cavitation bubbles, making it more stable.

[0656] Sensory evaluation:

[0657] The application of composition 7 according to the invention is fresher, easier, less sticky and applies better, with the pleasant sensation obtained by swirling the fingers on the skin being significantly longer than that obtained with composition 6.

[0658] After application of composition 7 according to the invention to the skin, a much more matte and soft-focus appearance than that obtained with comparative composition 6 can also be seen.

[0659] Measurement of soft focus / matte effect on keratin materials:

[0660] For measuring transmittance, haze and brightness, a Byk haze meter, model: HazeGard Plus, was used.

[0661] The matte effect / soft focus result after application to the skin, as judged by a panel of assessors, is confirmed by transmittance, haze, brightness and gloss measurements. In order to quantify the transmitted light of a formulation and also its soft focus ability, the "haze" parameter is measured. The haze measurement consists in determining the amount by which light is deflected from its trajectory by the sample. This enables the soft focus ability of a material to be quantified.

[0662] Research conditions: room temperature: 25°C, film drying temperature: 25°C, film drying time: 1h.

[0663] Elcometer Spreader: Model: 4340 - A transparent 100 micron sheet is placed on the spreader, adjusted to 25 micron thickness, then the sample is added, and the film is then allowed to dry at room temperature for 1 hour. The transparent sheet coated with the 25 micron thick sample is then placed on the lens of the device and the H (haze) and B (brightness) values ​​are measured.

[0664] For measuring the gloss, a Byk gloss meter, model: MicroTRIgloss, was used. The application was the same as above, with the measurement being carried out directly using a transparent sheet placed on a black surface and the gloss meter.

[0665] [Table 7]

[0666] Observation / Measurement Comparative composition 6 Composition 7 (present invention) Haze 22.77 53.28 brightness 48.15 12.15 luster 40.32 18.65

[0667] As can be seen from the results of Table 7, the composition according to the invention (Composition 7) enables significantly improved soft focus and matte effects relative to the comparative composition.

Claims

1. A mixture comprising: i) one or more 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one compounds or one or more organic or inorganic base salts thereof, and also solvates thereof, such as hydrates; ii) one or more antioxidants and possibly one or more preservatives different from i); iii) one or more surfactants; iv) one or more preferably organic thickening polymers; and optionally v) one or more fatty substances; It is understood that when the mixture comprises one or more cationic surfactants, their amount is less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of i) to v), preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight of cationic surfactant, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight of cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition; even more preferably, the composition comprises an amount of surfactant less than 0.5% by weight; better still, the mixture does not comprise any cationic surfactant.

2. A mixture according to the preceding claim, wherein The weight ratio i) / ii) is in the range of 0.05 to 5, preferably in the range of 0.08 to 5, more preferably in the range of 1 to 4 and more preferably in the range of 3 to 3.

8.

3. The mixture according to claim 1, wherein The antioxidant is selected from keto and / or carboxyl heterocyclic acid compounds, such as caffeine, amino acids and hydroxylated benzene compounds, which are optionally substituted on the benzene ring with one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups, especially from benzene-based alcohols.

4. A mixture as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein ii) is selected from 4-hydroxyacetophenone, and also its salts and its solvates such as hydrates.

5. A composition comprising a mixture of components i), ii), iii) and iv) and optionally v) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, it being understood that the composition comprises an amount of less than 0.5% by weight, preferably an amount less than or equal to 0.2%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.1% by weight of cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition; even more preferably, the composition comprises an amount of less than 0.05%; even better still, the composition of the present invention does not comprise any cationic surfactant.

6. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic and anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 5 and 6, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides, preferably oxyethylenated fatty acid mono- and diesters of sorbitan containing 2 to 200 mol EO, in particular 10 to 100 EO, such as propylene glycol stearate and glyceryl mono / distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO) containing 10 to 30 EO, such as 20 EO, or mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, comprising one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl Isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl diesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside-uronates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl aryl ether carboxylates, alkyl amido ether carboxylates, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group represents a phenyl group which may be oxyethylenated; preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from: (C6-C 24 ) alkyl carboxylic acids, especially (C 10 -C 20 ) alkylcarboxylic acids, preferably of natural origin, in particular of vegetable origin, such as stearic acid, which may be in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline earth metal salts; or mixtures of these compounds.

9. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 5 and 6 to 8, wherein The amount of surfactant preferably ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, particularly from 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight, even more particularly from 3% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 5 to 9, comprising one or more fatty substances preferably chosen from: a) a fat, preferably shea butter; b) wax, preferably beeswax; c) non-liquid fatty alcohols, in particular chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms - the alcohols are preferably C 10 -C 22 Alcohol, more preferably C 14 -C 20 Alcohol, better C 16 -C 18 Alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol - and mixtures thereof; d) non-liquid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, especially those derived from C9-C 26 Fatty acids and C9-C 26 solid esters of fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myristate; e) esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the ester is derived is branched, such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C 10 -C 22 , preferably C 12 -C 20 Alkyl (iso) stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate; f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, and also mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; g) Oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides containing fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pith oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 5 to 10, comprising one or more fatty substances in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 11, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers, in particular of natural or synthetic origin, which are associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic polymers, more particularly anionic.

13. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 12, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of: - acrylic acid ester monomer CH2=C(R')-COOR"' (VIa) and / or -Acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R")-LY - M(VIb) In the formulae (VIa) and (VIb): *R' and R" may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl, preferably hydrogen; *R'' represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group which is optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl, carboxyl or amino groups; *L represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic divalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally inserted or substituted by one or more heteroatoms such as O or N and containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, L represents a divalent group -[C(R')(R")] p -, wherein p represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 2 to 3 such as 2, and R' and R" are as defined above; more particularly, L represents -C(R')(R")-CH2- or -CH2-C(R')(R")-, wherein R' and R" are as defined above; preferably, R' and R" represent (C1-C4)alkyl such as methyl; *Y - represents an anionic group, such as carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, sulfonate or sulfate, preferably -S(O)2-O - , and M is a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal such as sodium, the copolymer may be in a direct emulsion or an inverse emulsion, preferably an inverse emulsion; More preferably, the thickening organic polymer of the present invention is composed of an acrylate monomer CH2=C(R')-COOH(VIa) and an acrylamide monomer CH2=C(R')-CO-N(R")-LY as defined above. - M + (VIb) is produced by copolymerization; preferably, the thickening organic polymer is selected from crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylic acid copolymers or methacrylic acid copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, alone or as a mixture.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 13, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers with sugar units derived in particular from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose, more particularly galactose and anhydrogalactose; preferably, the thickening organic polymer with sugar units is chosen from agar.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 5 to 14, comprising one or more thickening organic polymers in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. A composition according to any one of claims 5 to 15, comprising one or more fatty substances as defined in claim 10 or 11 and one or more surfactants as defined in any one of claims 4 to 8, wherein the fatty substance / surfactant weight ratio is between 5 and 20, preferably between 8 and 15, even more preferably between 10 and 13, such as 11.

8.

17. A composition according to any one of claims 5 to 16, comprising one or more fatty substances as defined in claim 10 or 11 and one or more surfactants as defined in any one of claims 6 to 9 and one or more thickening organic polymers as defined in any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein the weight ratio of fatty substance / sum of surfactant and polymer [surfactant+polymer] is from 0.8 to 10, particularly from 1 to 5, more particularly from 1.5 to 2.5, such as 1.8 or 1.9, inclusive.

18. The composition according to any one of claims 5 to 17, comprising an aqueous phase and an organic phase or an oil phase; preferably, the composition of the present invention is a direct emulsion of the oil-in-water (O / W) type.

19. A composition according to any one of claims 5 to 18, comprising one or more organic solvents, in particular chosen from a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25° C.), in particular chosen from polyols having in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols having in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol.

20. The composition of any one of claims 5 to 19, comprising one or more organic solvents present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to 20% by weight, and even more particularly from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, inclusive.

21. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method, in particular for caring for and / or making up and / or cleansing keratin materials, said method comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 20.

22. A method for preserving a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that The method comprises incorporating into the composition an antimicrobial mixture as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 or a composition as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 20.

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