Processing method of worsted cashmere stretch suiting and worsted cashmere stretch suiting

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a processing method of worsted cashmere elastic suiting and the worsted cashmere elastic suiting, the processing method of worsted cashmere elastic suiting comprising the following steps: S1, processing worsted cashmere yarn and worsted cashmere spandex core spun yarn on a loom; S3, weaving a grey cloth by using the worsted cashmere yarn as warp and the worsted cashmere spandex core spun yarn as weft; S5, processing the grey cloth into the worsted cashmere elastic suiting in a spinning workshop through post-finishing, the post-finishing comprising, in sequence, raw finishing, heat setting, intermediate inspection, barrel sewing, air washing, dehydration, wet inspection, first drying, intermediate inspection, final finishing, steel wire raising, prick fruit raising, second drying, first ironing, first shearing, second ironing, second shearing, continuous steaming and tank steaming. Through the post-finishing processes of steel wire raising and prick fruit raising, the worsted cashmere elastic suiting product forms uniform and long straight pile on the surface, realizes the characteristics of fabric loftiness and light touch, and improves the warmth retention performance of the fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This disclosure relates to the field of textile technology, and in particular to a processing method for worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric and the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric itself. Background Technology

[0002] Domestically available worsted cashmere stretch lightweight tweed comes in two styles: one is a smooth finish, achieved through a washing process, resulting in a clean surface, clear weave, and lasting luster, suitable for spring and summer clothing; the other is a napped finish, achieved through fulling or washing, creating a dense, short nap on the surface, resulting in a soft and elastic feel, suitable for autumn and winter clothing. However, similar to worsted wool fabrics, these two styles, due to the short nap or smooth surface, do not fully showcase the lightweight, soft, and warm properties of cashmere.

[0003] To achieve the lightweight characteristics of worsted cashmere fabrics, the yarn count needs to be very high. Because cashmere fibers are extremely short, the yarn twist is relatively large, resulting in more napping cycles compared to woolen cashmere fabrics. Nailing in worsted cashmere fabrics reduces the weft-direction breaking strength. How to meet the industry standards for worsted fabrics in terms of finished product inspection while simultaneously achieving a longer nap on the fabric surface is a pressing technical problem that needs to be solved in this field. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of this disclosure is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a processing method for worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric and the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric itself.

[0005] According to a first aspect of this disclosure, a method for processing worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric is provided, comprising the following steps:

[0006] S1. Machine processing of worsted cashmere yarn and worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn;

[0007] S3. The worsted cashmere yarn is used as the warp, and the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is used as the weft, which is woven into a grey fabric.

[0008] S5. The greige fabric is processed into fine cashmere elastic brushed fabric in the coarse spinning workshop. The finishing process includes: raw finishing, heat setting, intermediate inspection, tube sewing, air-flow washing, dehydration, wet inspection, first drying, intermediate inspection, finishing, steel wire napping, burr napping, second drying, first ironing, first shearing, second ironing, second shearing, continuous steaming, and can steaming.

[0009] In one embodiment of this disclosure, in step S1, the worsted cashmere yarn has a yarn count of 80 / 2NM-90 / 2NM, a single yarn twist coefficient of 95-105, a single yarn twist of (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M), a ply yarn twist coefficient of 120-130, and a ply yarn twist of (760-825T / M)-(805-875T / M); the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn has a yarn count of 80 / 2NM-90 / 2NM, a single yarn twist coefficient of 95-105, a single yarn twist of (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M), a ply yarn twist coefficient of 105-115, and a ply yarn twist of (665-730T / M)-(705-770T / M).

[0010] In one embodiment of this disclosure, in step S1, the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is composed of cashmere and spandex filaments, the spandex filaments are 30D semi-transparent spandex filaments, and the spandex content in the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is 4%-6%.

[0011] In one embodiment of this disclosure, the machine parameters in step S3, which involves weaving the fabric onto a loom, include: a warp density of 270-280 threads / 10cm, a weft density of 300-310 threads / 10cm, and a fabric weight of 240-260g / m.

[0012] In one embodiment of this disclosure, during step S5, the heat setting process involves a machine speed of 10-15 m / min, a temperature of 185-190°C, and an overfeed of 5%-10%.

[0013] In one embodiment of this disclosure, step S5, the airflow washing process specifically includes the following steps:

[0014] The airflow washing machine processes the heat-set greige fabric at a speed of 200 r / min, completing the first washing.

[0015] The airflow washing machine processes the greige fabric after the first wash at a speed of 800 r / min, using a shrinkage agent volume of 1-2L, a water temperature of 45-50℃, and a processing time of 30-35 minutes, thus completing the second wash.

[0016] The airflow washing machine processes the greige fabric after the second wash at a speed of 200 r / min, with a water temperature of 45℃ and a processing time of 30 min. The third wash is then completed.

[0017] In one embodiment of this disclosure, in step S5, the wire fuzzing is performed using a double cylinder fuzzing machine. The clockwise fuzzing force of the lower cylinder is 2.0%, the counterclockwise fuzzing force is 2.2%, and the tension is 1.0%. The clockwise fuzzing force of the upper cylinder is 2.4%, the counterclockwise fuzzing force is 2.6%, and the tension is 1.0%. The fuzzing is performed 8 times.

[0018] In one embodiment of this disclosure, step S5, the napping of the nap includes combing the nap with the fabric surface flush 3-4 times.

[0019] In one embodiment of this disclosure, in step S5, the temperature of the first heat treatment is 210-230℃, and the speed of the machine is 5-10m / min; the speed of the first trimming is 6-10m / min, and the blade distance is 2.1-2.5mm; the temperature of the second heat treatment is 210-230℃, and the speed of the machine is 8-12m / min; the speed of the second trimming is 6-10m / min, and the blade distance is 2-2.4mm.

[0020] According to a second aspect of this disclosure, a worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric is provided, which is processed by the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric processing method described in any of the above embodiments.

[0021] One beneficial effect of the disclosed processing method for worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric is that the method uses worsted cashmere yarn as the warp and worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn as the weft to weave the fabric into a grey fabric. The grey fabric is then processed in the wool spinning workshop using wool spinning finishing equipment, particularly employing steel wire napping and burr napping processes. This results in a uniform, long, and straight pile on the surface of the finished worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric, achieving a fluffy and lightweight feel. Simultaneously, the pile layer traps air, improving the fabric's warmth retention. Furthermore, all finishing processes are completed in the wool spinning workshop, reducing transportation costs.

[0022] One beneficial effect of the disclosed worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric is that the surface of the finished worsted cashmere brushed fabric forms a uniform, long, and straight pile. Compared with traditional worsted cashmere tweed, the fabric's fluffiness is increased by about 30%, it feels light to the touch, and the long pile layer can trap air, improving the fabric's warmth retention performance. The fabric's heat retention capacity is increased by 50%, and its tensile strength and other indicators still meet the standards for worsted cashmere fabrics. Attached Figure Description

[0023] The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and form a part of this specification, illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure and, together with their description, serve to explain the principles of the present disclosure.

[0024] Figure 1 This is a schematic flowchart of a processing method for finely spun cashmere elastic brushed fabric provided in one embodiment of the present disclosure;

[0025] Figure 2 This is a pattern diagram of a worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric provided in one embodiment of this disclosure. Detailed Implementation

[0026] Various exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure will now be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. It should be noted that, unless otherwise specifically stated, the relative arrangement, numerical expressions, and values ​​of the components and steps set forth in these embodiments do not limit the scope of the present disclosure.

[0027] The following description of at least one exemplary embodiment is merely illustrative and is in no way intended to limit this disclosure or its application or use.

[0028] Techniques, methods, and equipment known to those skilled in the art may not be discussed in detail, but where appropriate, such techniques, methods, and equipment should be considered part of the specification.

[0029] In all the examples shown and discussed herein, any specific values ​​should be interpreted as merely exemplary and not as limitations. Therefore, other examples of exemplary embodiments may have different values.

[0030] It should be noted that similar labels and letters in the following figures indicate similar items; therefore, once an item is defined in one figure, it does not need to be discussed further in subsequent figures.

[0031] In this article, terms such as "up," "down," "front," "back," "left," and "right" are used only to indicate the relative positional relationship between related parts, rather than to define the absolute position of these related parts.

[0032] In this article, "first," "second," etc., are used only to distinguish one another, and not to indicate degree of importance, order, or prerequisite for each other.

[0033] In this document, terms such as “equal” and “same” are not strict mathematical and / or geometric limitations, but also include errors that are understandable to those skilled in the art and permissible in manufacturing or use.

[0034] Existing worsted cashmere stretch lightweight tweed comes in two styles: one is a smooth texture, finished with a washing process, resulting in a clean surface, clear weave, and lasting luster, suitable for spring and summer clothing; the other is a napped texture, where the fabric undergoes fulling or washing to create a dense, short nap, resulting in a soft and elastic feel, suitable for autumn and winter clothing. However, similar to worsted wool fabrics, these two styles, due to the short nap or smooth surface, do not fully reflect the lightweight, soft, and warm properties of cashmere. Therefore, this disclosure provides a processing method for worsted cashmere stretch brushed tweed and the worsted cashmere stretch brushed tweed itself. For ease of understanding, see the following references. Figure 1 , Figure 2The specific steps of the processing method for worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric and the specific structure of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric will be described in detail with reference to the embodiments.

[0035] The processing method of the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric disclosed herein includes the following steps: S1, processing worsted cashmere yarn and worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn on a loom; S3, using the worsted cashmere yarn as warp and the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn as weft, weaving them into a grey fabric; S5, the grey fabric undergoes finishing processing in a woolen spinning workshop to become worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric, the finishing process including: raw finishing, heat setting, intermediate inspection, tube sewing, air-flow washing, dehydration, wet inspection, first drying, intermediate inspection, finishing, steel wire napping, burr napping, second drying, first ironing, first shearing, second ironing, second shearing, continuous steaming, and can steaming.

[0036] Specifically, in combination Figure 1 In step S1, the worsted cashmere yarn can be made from pure cashmere, with an average fiber length of 36-40 mm and an average fineness of 14.5-15.5 μm. Alternatively, a blend of cashmere and mulberry silk can be used as an alternative, with a ratio of 90% cashmere and 10% mulberry silk, or 80% cashmere and 20% mulberry silk. By incorporating mulberry silk, the strength and abrasion resistance of the finished fabric are improved.

[0037] In step S3, combined Figure 2 A is worsted cashmere yarn, and B is worsted cashmere-spandex core-spun yarn. The worsted cashmere yarn is used as the warp, and the worsted cashmere-spandex core-spun yarn is used as the weft. The fabric is woven in a 2 / 2 twill weave. The front and back have similar patterns, and the luster and strength are balanced.

[0038] In step S5, all finishing processes are carried out in the wool spinning workshop using wool spinning equipment. The woven fabric only needs to be transported to the wool spinning workshop, without having to be transported back and forth between the worsted spinning workshop and the wool spinning workshop, thus saving transportation costs.

[0039] Heat setting can precisely control the fabric width, ensuring the stability of the finished product dimensions. Because spandex yarn shrinks greatly when heated in a humid state, the fabric width usually needs to be increased before starting the machine. The finishing process uses heat setting to set the raw fabric at high temperature, controlling the width to meet the requirements of the finished product and achieving greater elasticity in the weft direction.

[0040] Airflow washing uses high-speed airflow to move the fabric, achieving the washing effect. The airflow washing machine sprays high-speed air onto the fabric, causing it to tumble and rub against each other, thus removing stains and impurities. Simultaneously, the high-speed washing causes the wet fabric to impact the back baffle of the airflow washing machine, achieving a light felting effect and avoiding creases that can occur with traditional felting. During the washing process, the fabric is in a loose state within the equipment, experiencing relatively little mechanical force and relying primarily on the airflow. The washing effect is uniform, the fabric surface is smooth, and it is less prone to creases and abrasions compared to traditional felting. The width of the fabric after airflow washing is controlled to approximately 152cm.

[0041] The greige fabric is raised using a coarse spinning raising device, causing the longer fibers to protrude from the fabric surface and increase the nap. It is then combed using a burr raising process to ensure the nap is straight and to remove loose and short fibers. Finally, it undergoes two rounds of calendering and shearing, resulting in a fabric with a glossy finish, even nap, and a comfortable hand feel.

[0042] Continuous steaming is applied before canning. On one hand, continuous steaming provides initial shaping of the fabric, reducing dimensional changes and ensuring fabric smoothness. Simultaneously, steam treatment enhances the fabric's softness and fluffiness, improving its hand feel. On the other hand, it prevents the fabric from becoming stiff due to pre-canning. During canning, the steam pressure is 0.3-0.5 bar, the treatment time is 110-130 seconds, and the steam release time is 170-190 seconds. Canning not only improves the fabric's physical properties but also removes impurities and wrinkles, making the fabric more beautiful and comfortable. The steam pressure and treatment time determine the strength of the steaming, while the steam release time determines the fabric's shaping effect. By strictly controlling the steaming time, the holding time, and the cooling time, the fabric is efficiently and quickly pre-shaped, ensuring smoothness, while preventing steam marks and unevenness marks from forming during the canning process.

[0043] The disclosed processing method for worsted cashmere stretch brushed fabric uses worsted cashmere yarn as the warp and worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn as the weft to weave the fabric into a greige. The greige fabric is then treated in the wool spinning workshop using wool spinning finishing equipment, particularly employing steel wire napping and tassel napping processes. This results in a uniform, long, and straight pile on the surface of the finished worsted cashmere stretch brushed fabric, achieving a fluffy and lightweight feel. Simultaneously, the pile layer traps air, improving the fabric's warmth retention. Furthermore, all finishing processes are completed in the wool spinning workshop, reducing transportation costs.

[0044] In one embodiment, in step S1, the worsted cashmere yarn has a yarn count of 80 / 2NM-90 / 2NM, a single yarn twist coefficient of 95-105, a single yarn twist of (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M), a ply yarn twist coefficient of 120-130, and a ply yarn twist of (760-825T / M)-(805-875T / M); the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn has a yarn count of 80 / 2NM-90 / 2NM, a single yarn twist coefficient of 95-105, a single yarn twist of (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M), a ply yarn twist coefficient of 105-115, and a ply yarn twist of (665-730T / M)-(705-770T / M).

[0045] Specifically, the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric disclosed herein uses a double warp and double weft, with a high yarn twist that makes it less prone to pilling. To achieve a longer nap on the fabric surface, the number of napping cycles needs to be increased; otherwise, the finished product will have insufficient nap on the undercoat, resulting in exposed undercoat and failing to meet the required fabric style. Increasing the number of napping cycles makes it difficult to meet the required yarn breaking strength, especially the weft breaking strength, which decreases significantly. Therefore, it is necessary to adopt a reasonable yarn twist combined with a reasonable number of napping cycles to achieve nap formation and reduce the damage to the weft strength caused by steel wire napping.

[0046] Table 1 shows the test indicators of the finished fine cashmere elastic brushed fabric in one embodiment of this disclosure.

[0047] Implementation standard: FZ / T24009-2021

[0048]

[0049] Table 1

[0050] The worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric in Table 1 has a twist that is about 15% lower than that of traditional worsted cashmere tweed, and the surface pile of the finished product meets the requirements. Although the strength decreases after the weft yarns are brushed, the weft breaking strength can be met by appropriately increasing the weft yarn density. All the weft yarns are cashmere elastic core-spun yarns, resulting in a large weft shrinkage rate, an elastic elongation rate greater than 15%, and an elastic recovery rate greater than 75%. The fabric has sufficient weft elasticity and good resilience, resulting in highly comfortable garments.

[0051] Table 2 shows the test indicators of the finished fine cashmere elastic brushed fabric in one embodiment of this disclosure.

[0052] Implementation standard: FZ / T24009-2021

[0053]

[0054] Table 2

[0055] Table 2 and Table 1 are similar in that the warp and weft yarn twist coefficients are the same, and the number of raising cycles is also the same. The weft yarn twist coefficient is lower than the warp yarn twist coefficient, meaning the warp yarn twist is higher, ensuring warp yarn strength and elongation, and improving weaving efficiency. The weft yarn twist is lower, resulting in a suitable number of raising cycles and raising force, ensuring sufficient weft yarn strength after raising. The difference between Table 2 and Table 1 lies in the weft yarn arrangement. In Table 2, the weft yarn arrangement consists of one cashmere yarn and one cashmere core-spun yarn, resulting in acceptable physical properties of the finished product. Changing the weft yarn configuration achieves acceptable physical properties in the finished product. However, the drawback is poor weft elasticity. The elastic elongation is less than 10%, and the elastic recovery rate is less than 65%, resulting in generally lower wearing comfort for the final garment.

[0056] Table 3 shows the finished product test indicators of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric in the experimental comparative examples.

[0057] Implementation standard: FZ / T24009-2021

[0058]

[0059] Table 3

[0060] Compared to Tables 1 and 2, Table 3 shows that a higher weft twist coefficient and twist degree make the fabric more difficult to nap, increasing the number of napping cycles and damaging the weft strength, resulting in substandard weft breaking strength. If the number of napping cycles does not increase, the finished product will have insufficient nap on the surface, showing the underlying material and failing to meet the required fabric style. Therefore, while ensuring the fabric's weft breaking strength meets the standard, the twist degree of the weft yarn should be appropriately reduced. Especially when the weft arrangement consists only of cashmere core-spun yarn, some cashmere fibers will detach from the spandex yarn after napping, making the weft yarn prone to breakage under external force, leading to substandard physical properties of the finished product.

[0061] Table 4 shows the finished product testing indicators of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric in the experimental comparative examples.

[0062] Implementation standard: FZ / T24009-2021

[0063]

[0064] Table 4

[0065] Compared to Tables 1 and 2, Table 4 shows that a smaller weft twist coefficient and lower weft twist makes it easier for the fabric to pill. With the number of pilling cycles remaining constant, the finished product has ample surface pile and short, even pile. Pilling damages the weft yarn strength, resulting in a substandard weft breaking strength. Test results show pilling and fuzzing at levels 2-3, which is considered substandard. The weft breaking strength is 131CN, lower than 147CN, which is also substandard. Insufficient weft yarn twist makes pilling easy, leading to substandard weft breaking strength and pilling in the finished fabric.

[0066] Therefore, after multiple comparative experiments, the weft twist needs to be appropriately reduced to meet the weft breaking strength. The selected weft yarn twist coefficient is 95-105, and the single yarn twist is (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M). The ply yarn twist coefficient is 105-115, and the ply yarn twist is (665-730T / M)-(705-770T / M). Compared with traditional worsted cashmere tweed fabrics, the weft twist is reduced by about 15%. Combined with a reasonable number of napping cycles, the finished product has sufficient surface pile and back pile, and the weft breaking strength is not up to standard after napping, while the napping and pilling grades meet the standards.

[0067] In one embodiment, in step S1, the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is composed of cashmere and spandex filaments, the spandex filaments are 30D semi-transparent spandex filaments, and the spandex content in the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is 4%-6%.

[0068] Specifically, the raw materials for worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn are cashmere and spandex filaments. Cashmere fibers have an average length of 36-40mm and an average fineness of 14.5-15.5um. By adding spandex filaments on a spinning machine, the woven fabric has weft elasticity and the delicate nap and soft, supple feel of cashmere.

[0069] In the textile industry, "D" (Denier) is a unit for measuring fiber thickness. 30D semi-transparent spandex fiber has a diameter of about 0.02~0.03mm. Compared with 40D spandex, it has higher light transmittance and higher elasticity. The finished fabric has a delicate surface, soft luster, and the semi-transparency makes the colors more transparent. It is suitable for high-end fabrics that pursue comfort.

[0070] In one embodiment, in step S3, the machine parameters for weaving the greige fabric include: warp density of 270-280 threads / 10cm, weft density of 300-310 threads / 10cm, and greige fabric weight per meter of 240-260g / m.

[0071] Specifically, the finished worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric has a warp density of 359 threads / 10cm and a weft density of 320 threads / 10cm. The finishing shrinkage is 2.4% in length and 16.1% in width, with a finished width of 151cm. The weaving shrinkage is 5.0% in length and 7.2% in width. The machine parameters are derived from the finished product requirements and shrinkage rates.

[0072] Fabric width on the loom = Finished fabric width / (1 - Finishing width shrinkage) / (1 - Weaving width shrinkage), Total warp ends on the loom = Warp density * Fabric width on the loom / 10, Optimal warp density is 280 ends / 10cm, weft density is 306 ends / 10cm, total warp ends on the loom is 5432, fabric width on the loom is 194cm, weaving shrinkage rate is 5.0% for length and 7.2% for width. Greige fabric width = Fabric width on the loom * (1 - Weaving width shrinkage).

[0073] The weight per meter of greige fabric = weight per square meter of greige fabric * width of greige fabric. The weight per meter of greige fabric is 240-260 g / m, which is a lightweight fabric. This makes it more difficult to control the breaking strength of the fabric. Appropriate twist and napping times are required to control the breaking strength of the fabric to meet the requirements.

[0074] Combination Figure 2 A is worsted cashmere yarn, B is worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn, with worsted cashmere yarn as the warp and worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn as the weft, and the fabric is woven on a 2 / 2 twill loom.

[0075] In one embodiment, during step S5, the heat setting process involves a machine speed of 10-15 m / min, a temperature of 185-190°C, and an overfeed of 5%-10%.

[0076] Specifically, cashmere is a protein fiber, and to avoid damaging the fiber, the heat setting temperature needs to be strictly controlled. The overfeed amount is also controlled according to the required width. The heat setting process can precisely control the width, ensuring the stability of the finished product's dimensions. Because spandex yarn shrinks significantly when heated in a damp state, the width used on the loom usually needs to be increased. Finishing involves heat setting the raw fabric at high temperatures to control the width to meet the finished product requirements, achieving greater elasticity in the weft direction.

[0077] In one embodiment, step S5 specifically includes the following steps: the airflow washing machine processes the heat-set fabric at a speed of 200 r / min, completing the first washing; the airflow washing machine processes the fabric after the first washing at a speed of 800 r / min, using a shrinkage agent with a volume of 1-2 L, a water temperature of 45-50℃, and a processing time of 30-35 min, completing the second washing; the airflow washing machine processes the fabric after the second washing at a speed of 200 r / min, a water temperature of 45℃, and a processing time of 30 min, completing the third washing.

[0078] Specifically, in the airflow washing process, the fabric is in a loose state within the equipment, experiencing relatively little mechanical force and relying mainly on airflow. Therefore, it is suitable for high-end fabrics such as cashmere. The first wash removes impurities from the greige fabric. In the second wash, water is added and the temperature is controlled at 45-50℃. 1-2L of shrinkage agent is used, and a high-speed airflow causes the fabric to tumble in the water, resulting in felting through inter-fiber friction. The third wash removes residual shrinkage agent and impurities, ensuring the fabric is clean and restoring its original properties.

[0079] In one embodiment, in step S5, the wire is raised using a double cylinder raising machine. The clockwise raising force of the lower cylinder is 2.0%, the counterclockwise raising force is 2.2%, and the tension is 1.0%. The clockwise raising force of the upper cylinder is 2.4%, the counterclockwise raising force is 2.6%, and the tension is 1.0%. The number of raising cycles is 8.

[0080] Specifically, the equipment used for steel wire napping is a coarse spinning double-cylinder napping machine. Completing two napping cycles in a single machine reduces fabric turning and changeover time, thus increasing production capacity. Forward napping occurs when the needle teeth are inclined in the same direction as the fabric's movement. When the fabric contacts the needle teeth, the tips hook onto the fiber surface, pulling out the nap along the fabric's movement direction with a gentler force. Counter-back napping occurs when the needle teeth are inclined in the opposite direction to the fabric's movement. The fabric passes through the needle teeth, and the tips penetrate deep into the fiber, pulling the fiber in the opposite direction to form nap, with a stronger force. This disclosure is for worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabrics. The napping force for steel wire napping needs to be set relatively low to reduce the damage to the weft yarn strength caused by the steel wire, increase the breaking strength of the weft yarn after napping, and simultaneously allow longer naps to protrude from the fabric surface, increasing the nap feel.

[0081] The needle cloth is a size 34 needle. The needle cloth number usually corresponds to the needle density. Size 34 needle cloth is a medium-high density needle cloth, which is suitable for lightweight and delicate fabrics, such as the finely spun cashmere elastic brushed fabric disclosed herein.

[0082] Only the front side is raised, and the number of raising times is 8. Single-sided double raising using a coarse spinning double cylinder raising machine can improve the pile density. If the number of raising times is insufficient, the surface pile and the base pile of the finished product will be severely insufficient. If the number of raising times is too many, the weft yarn will break and the strength will be unqualified. After multiple comparative experiments, the number of raising times was set to 8.

[0083] In one embodiment, step S5, brushing the nap includes combing the nap with the nap flush with the fabric surface 3-4 times.

[0084] Specifically, the burrs physically scrape the fabric surface, causing the fiber ends to separate from the yarn and stand upright, forming a uniform and fluffy nap. After the steel wire raising process, the burrs are used for further raising, mainly acting as a comb to ensure the nap is straight, while also removing loose and short fibers, improving the nap and pilling grade of the finished product. Furthermore, the physical action of the burrs is gentle and suitable for cashmere fibers.

[0085] In one embodiment, in step S5, the temperature of the first heat treatment is 210-230℃, and the speed is 5-10m / min; the speed of the first trimming is 6-10m / min, and the blade distance is 2.1-2.5mm; the temperature of the second heat treatment is 210-230℃, and the speed is 8-12m / min; the speed of the second trimming is 6-10m / min, and the blade distance is 2-2.4mm.

[0086] Specifically, calendering is a key finishing process. The fabric comes into contact with the high-temperature rollers of the calendering machine, where the fibers soften from the heat. Under mechanical pressure, the nap flattens and forms a mirror-like reflection, giving the fabric its luster. Shearing, on the other hand, removes loose fibers or excess nap from the fabric surface through mechanical cutting, achieving a smooth, uniform nap.

[0087] The effect of calendering is directly controlled by two main parameters: temperature and machine speed. At lower temperatures, the fabric fibers are not sufficiently softened, resulting in poor pile orientation, low luster, and a stiff feel. At higher temperatures, fibers are prone to melting or carbonization, leading to fabric hardening and loss of elasticity. At lower machine speeds, the high-temperature rollers may over-compact the fabric, reducing its bulk. At higher speeds, insufficient heating time results in uneven pile, mottled luster, and poor fabric quality. For lightweight fabrics, high-temperature rapid calendering should be used. Therefore, the first calendering temperature should be 210-230℃, with a machine speed of 5-10 m / min, and the second calendering temperature should be 210-230℃, with a machine speed of 8-12 m / min. Preferably, the first calendering temperature is 220℃, with a machine speed of 8 m / min, and the second calendering temperature is 220℃, with a machine speed of 10 m / min.

[0088] Multiple heat treatments can correct uneven areas layer by layer, resulting in a more uniform luster compared to a single heat treatment. This also reduces the heat load per treatment, preventing fiber embrittlement caused by prolonged high-temperature contact and extending fabric life. Furthermore, combining heat treatment with shearing orients the pile, improving shearing precision.

[0089] The shearing effect is affected by machine speed and blade spacing. Lower machine speeds result in higher shearing precision but lower production capacity, and the blade friction causes rapid heating, affecting fabric quality. Higher machine speeds may lead to missed cuts. Blade spacing refers to the vertical distance between the spiral blade and the fixed bottom blade. A smaller blade spacing may cause over-shearing, while a larger blade spacing results in continuous pulling of the fibers and a high roughness rate. Therefore, the recommended machine speed for the first shearing is 6-10 m / min with a blade spacing of 2.1-2.5 mm, and the same for the second shearing is 6-10 m / min with a blade spacing of 2-2.4 mm. Preferably, the machine speed for the first shearing is 8 m / min with a blade spacing of 2.3 mm, and the same for the second shearing is 8 m / min with a blade spacing of 2.2 mm.

[0090] As a key component in the shearing machine, the brush roller can optimize the state of the fluff through physical action. Setting the brush roller during the first shearing can make the fluff stand up, improve the shearing capture rate, remove impurities, and reduce the risk of blade clogging.

[0091] The worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric disclosed herein is obtained by the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric processing method described in any of the above embodiments.

[0092] Specifically, the finished worsted cashmere brushed fabric disclosed herein forms a uniform, long, and straight pile on its surface. Compared to traditional worsted cashmere tweed, the fabric's loft is increased by approximately 30%, its feel is lighter, and the longer pile layer can trap air, improving the fabric's warmth retention performance. The fabric's heat storage capacity is increased by 50%. Furthermore, its tensile strength and other indicators still meet the standards for worsted cashmere fabrics.

[0093] The various embodiments of this disclosure have been described above. These descriptions are exemplary and not exhaustive, and are not limited to the disclosed embodiments. Many modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art without departing from the scope and spirit of the described embodiments. The terminology used herein is chosen to best explain the principles, practical application, or technical improvements to the embodiments in the market, or to enable others skilled in the art to understand the embodiments disclosed herein. The scope of this disclosure is defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A processing method for worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Processing worsted cashmere yarn and worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn on a machine, wherein the worsted cashmere yarn has a yarn count of 80 / 2NM-90 / 2NM, a single yarn twist coefficient of 95-105, a single yarn twist of (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M), a ply yarn twist coefficient of 120-130, and a ply yarn twist of (760-825T / M)-(8 05-875T / M); the yarn count of the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is 80 / 2NM-90 / 2NM, the single yarn twist coefficient is 95-105, the single yarn twist is (850-940T / M)-(900-1000T / M), the ply yarn twist coefficient is 105-115, and the ply yarn twist is (665-730T / M)-(705-770T / M); S3. The worsted cashmere yarn is used as the warp, and the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is used as the weft. The yarn is woven into greige fabric. The parameters for weaving greige fabric include: warp density of 270-280 ends / 10cm, weft density of 300-310 ends / 10cm, and greige fabric weight per meter of 240-260g / m. S5. The greige fabric is processed into fine cashmere elastic brushed fabric in the coarse spinning workshop. The finishing process includes: raw finishing, heat setting, intermediate inspection, tube sewing, air-flow washing, dehydration, wet inspection, first drying, intermediate inspection, finishing, steel wire raising, burr raising, second drying, first ironing, first shearing, second ironing, second shearing, continuous steaming, and can steaming. The steel wire raising uses a double cylinder raising machine. The clockwise raising force of the lower cylinder is 2.0%, the counterclockwise raising force is 2.2%, and the tension is 1.0%. The clockwise raising force of the upper cylinder is 2.4%, the counterclockwise raising force is 2.6%, and the tension is 1.0%. The raising is performed 8 times.

2. The processing method of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S1, the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is composed of cashmere and spandex filaments, the spandex filaments are 30D semi-transparent spandex filaments, and the spandex content in the worsted cashmere spandex core-spun yarn is 4%-6%.

3. The processing method of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, In step S5, during the heat setting process, the machine speed is 10-15 m / min, the temperature is 185-190℃, and the overfeed is 5%-10%.

4. The processing method of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that, In step S5, the airflow washing process specifically includes the following steps: The airflow washing machine processes the heat-set greige fabric at a speed of 200 r / min, completing the first washing. The airflow washing machine processes the greige fabric after the first wash at a speed of 800 r / min, using a shrinkage agent volume of 1-2L, a water temperature of 45-50℃, and a processing time of 30-35 minutes, thus completing the second wash. The airflow washing machine processes the greige fabric after the second wash at a speed of 200 r / min, with a water temperature of 45℃ and a processing time of 30 min. The third wash is then completed.

5. The processing method of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, In step S5, the napping of the burrs includes combing the burrs and the fabric surface flush 3-4 times.

6. The processing method of worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step S5, the temperature of the first heat treatment is 210-230℃, and the speed is 5-10m / min; the speed of the first trimming is 6-10m / min, and the blade distance is 2.1-2.5mm; the temperature of the second heat treatment is 210-230℃, and the speed is 8-12m / min; the speed of the second trimming is 6-10m / min, and the blade distance is 2-2.4mm.

7. A finely spun cashmere elastic brushed fabric, characterized in that, The worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric is obtained by the processing method of the worsted cashmere elastic brushed fabric according to any one of claims 1-6.

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