Powder cosmetic

By combining a specific proportion of powdered grease and incompatible liquid grease in powder cosmetics, the problem of improved slipability and gloss during application is solved, and a smooth feeling and gloss is achieved while improving.

CN120417879APending Publication Date: 2025-08-01SHISEIDO CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202480006097.9
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-01-25
Filing Date
2024-01-12
Publication Date
2025-08-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing powdered cosmetics have poor sliding properties when applied, making it difficult to balance multiple characteristics at the same time, especially the smoothness and luster improvement on the skin.

Method used

In powder cosmetics, powdery greases and incompatible liquid greases are combined, specifically powdery greases contain a specific proportion of XXX and X2Y triglycerides, with a melting point above 25°C and below 50°C, and are mixed with incompatible liquid greases such as silicone oil to form an excellent sense of use and luster.

Benefits of technology

It achieves the smoothness during application, the presence or absence of powder during application, and the shiny skin after application, and broadens the range of cosmetic formulas.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

[Problem] To provide a powder cosmetic in which a plurality of characteristics are simultaneously improved when used. [Solution] A powder cosmetic is used that contains (A) a powdered oil or fat that contains a total triglyceride content of 100% by mass, (B) a powder component (excluding (A) the powdered oil or fat), and (C) a liquid oil or fat that is incompatible with (A) the powdered oil or fat, the total triglyceride content of the powdered oil or fat being 100% by mass, and the total triglyceride content of the powdered oil or fat being 100% by mass. The composition is characterized by containing 80-99% by mass of one or more XXX-type triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X having carbon number x at positions 1-3, and 20-1% by mass of one or more X2Y-type triglycerides in which one fatty acid residue X of the XXX-type triglycerides is substituted by a fatty acid residue Y having carbon number y, the carbon number x being an integer selected from 8-12, and the carbon number y being each independently an integer selected from x + 2-x + 8.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to powder cosmetics, and particularly to loose powder. Background Art

[0002] Heretofore, various cosmetics for applying to the skin to improve the texture of the skin have been studied. Such cosmetics are required to have various properties during use.

[0003] For example, in Patent Document 1, in order to improve the texture of the skin, a powdery cosmetic composition containing a powder phase, a liquid fatty phase, and a film-forming polymer is proposed.

[0004] Prior Art Documents

[0005] Patent Documents

[0006] Patent Document 1: Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2015-51957 Summary of the Invention

[0007] However, in the powder cosmetics described in Patent Document 1, the powder feeling is too heavy and the slidability on the skin during application is poor. Therefore, there is still a need for a powder cosmetic that has good slidability on the skin during application and can provide a smooth feeling of use.

[0008] In addition, generally, when improving the target properties of cosmetics according to the use, it is difficult to obtain a balance with other properties and it is difficult to satisfy all properties at the same time. Therefore, there is still a desire for a cosmetic that has improved various properties while achieving such a balance.

[0009] The present inventors conducted in-depth research to solve the above problems, and as a result, found that: by blending powdery oil and a liquid oil incompatible with the powdery oil in a powder cosmetic containing a large amount of powder components, in addition to a smooth feeling of use on the skin during application, since the powdery oil dissolves on the skin, the gloss of the skin is improved and a very beautiful makeup state can be obtained, and thus the present invention was completed.

[0010] According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided.

[0011] [1] A powder cosmetic, comprising:

[0012] (A) A powdery oil and fat, which, when the total triglyceride content is set to 100% by mass, contains: 80 to 99% by mass of one or more XXX-type triglycerides having fatty acid residues X with carbon number x at positions 1 to 3, and 20 to 1% by mass of one or more X2Y-type triglycerides in which one fatty acid residue X of the aforementioned XXX-type triglyceride is replaced with a fatty acid residue Y with carbon number y. The carbon number x is an integer selected from 8 to 12, and the carbon number y is independently an integer selected from x + 2 to x + 8;

[0013] (B) A powder component (wherein, the powdery oil and fat in (A) is not included); and

[0014] (C) A liquid oil and fat incompatible with the powdery oil and fat in (A).

[0015] [2] The powder cosmetic according to [1], wherein, when the total triglyceride content of the powdery oil and fat in (A) is set to 100% by mass, it contains: 90 to 99% by mass of XXX-type triglycerides having fatty acid residues X with carbon number x at positions 1 to 3, and 10 to 1% by mass of one or more X2Y-type triglycerides in which one fatty acid residue X of the aforementioned XXX-type triglyceride is replaced with a fatty acid residue Y with carbon number y. The carbon number x is 10, and the carbon number y is independently an integer selected from x + 4 to x + 8.

[0016] [3] The powder cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the melting point of the powdery oil and fat in (A) is 25°C or higher and 50°C or lower.

[0017] [4] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the blending amount of the powdery oil and fat in (A) is 0.5% by mass or more and 20% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the aforementioned powder cosmetic.

[0018] [5] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the blending amount of the liquid oil and fat in (C) is 0.1% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the aforementioned powder cosmetic.

[0019] [6] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the blending ratio (A / C) of the powdery oil and fat in (A) to the liquid oil and fat in (C) is 0.1 or more and 10 or less on a mass basis.

[0020] [7] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein the total blending amount of the powdery oil and fat in (A) and the powder component in (B) is 90% by mass or more and 99.9% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the aforementioned powder cosmetic.

[0021] [8] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7], wherein the liquid oil (C) is silicone oil.

[0022] [9] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the powder component (B) comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, glass, magnesium myristate, lauroyl lysine, talc, synthetic fluorphlogopite iron, cellulose powder, polyurethane powder, silicone resin powder, polymethacrylic acid powder, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and tar colors.

[0023]

[10] The powder cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [9], wherein the powder cosmetic is loose powder.

[0024] According to the present invention, a powder cosmetic is provided that is excellent in smoothness upon application, the presence or absence of a powdery feel upon application, and the luster of the skin after application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] [Powder cosmetics]

[0026] The powder cosmetic of the present invention comprises as essential ingredients (A) a powdered oil, (B) a powdered ingredient (excluding (A) the powdered oil), and (C) a liquid oil incompatible with (A) the powdered oil. Furthermore, the powder cosmetic of the present invention may further comprise other ingredients depending on the intended purpose. The powder cosmetic of the present invention can simultaneously improve the smoothness upon application, the presence of a powdery feel upon application, and the radiance of the skin after application. The following describes in detail the ingredients of the powder cosmetic of the present invention.

[0027] (A) Powdered Grease

[0028] The powdered oil in the present invention refers to a solid oil in powder form at room temperature (20°C). The melting point of the powdered oil is preferably 25°C to 50°C, more preferably 25°C to 45°C, even more preferably 25°C to 40°C, and even more preferably 25°C to 35°C. The melting point of the powdered oil can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) using conventional methods, with the peak value on the DSC chart being the melting point. When the powdered oil has a melting point within this numerical range, it melts easily when applied to the skin, removing heat from the skin and providing a cooling sensation.

[0029] Powdery fats and oils usually have a plate-like crystal or spherical crystal morphology, preferably a plate-like crystal morphology. The powdery fats and oils have an average particle size (effective diameter) of, for example, 50 to 400 μm, preferably 50 to 300 μm, more preferably 50 to 250 μm, and further preferably 50 to 200 μm. Here, the average particle size (effective diameter) is a value (d50) measured by dry measurement based on the laser diffraction scattering method (ISO133201, ISO9276-1) using a particle size distribution measuring device (for example, Microtrac MT3300ExII manufactured by Nikkiso Co., Ltd.). The effective diameter means the particle diameter of the sphere when the measured diffraction pattern of the crystal to be measured coincides with the theoretical diffraction pattern obtained assuming a sphere. Thus, in the case of the laser diffraction scattering method, since the effective diameter is calculated by making the measured diffraction pattern coincide with the theoretical diffraction pattern obtained assuming a sphere, the measurement can be performed on the same principle even if the measurement object is a plate-like crystal or a spherical crystal.

[0030] The powdery fats and oils contain: one or more XXX-type triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with x carbon atoms at the 1st to 3rd positions, and one or more X2Y-type triglycerides obtained by replacing one fatty acid residue X of the aforementioned XXX-type triglyceride with a fatty acid residue Y with y carbon atoms.

[0031] The fatty acid residue X may be a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residue. The carbon number x of the fatty acid residue X in the XXX-type triglyceride is an integer selected from 8 to 12, preferably 10. As specific fatty acid residues X, for example, saturated fatty acid residues such as caprylic acid (C8:0), capric acid (C10:0), and lauric acid (C12:0) can be mentioned, and capric acid is preferred. In addition, the carbon number y of the fatty acid residue Y in the XXX-type triglyceride is independently x + 2 to x + 8, preferably x + 4 to x + 8. As specific fatty acid residues Y, for example, saturated fatty acid residues such as myristic acid (C14:0), palmitic acid (C16:0), and stearic acid (C18:0) can be mentioned, and myristic acid is preferred.

[0032] When the total triglyceride content is set to 100% by mass, the content of XXX-type triglyceride is 80 to 99% by mass, preferably 90 to 99% by mass, and the content of X2Y-type triglyceride is 20 to 1% by mass, preferably 10 to 1% by mass. When the contents of XXX-type triglyceride and X2Y-type triglyceride are within the above ranges, a small amount of X2Y-type triglyceride with a longer fatty acid chain length exists. Therefore, when this X2Y-type triglyceride undergoes cooling crystallization from the molten state, it will be mixed into the oil crystals composed of XXX-type triglyceride, hindering the continuous crystal growth of XXX-type triglyceride. As a result, it is considered to become a solid crystallized in a very sparse state (a state where pores are generated due to volume increase). The obtained solid has the form of an aggregate of powdery oil crystallized in a very sparse state, and is brittle and prone to cracking even under a slight impact, easily presenting a powdery form.

[0033] As the powdery oil, commercially available products can be used. As the powdery oil, for example, Enequick manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. is preferably used.

[0034] The manufacturing method of the powdery oil can refer to Japanese Patent No. 5937771. Specifically, the powdery oil can be manufactured through the following steps. The manufacturing method may include:

[0035] (a) A step of preparing an oil composition containing 80 to 99% by mass of XXX-type triglyceride having a fatty acid residue X with a carbon number x at positions 1 to 3 and 20 to 1% by mass of X2Y-type triglyceride obtained by replacing one fatty acid residue X of the aforementioned XXX-type triglyceride with a fatty acid residue Y having a carbon number y, where the carbon number x is an integer selected from 8 to 12, and the carbon number y is independently an integer selected from x + 2 to x + 8.

[0036] (b) An optional step of heating the aforementioned oil composition to melt the triglyceride contained in the oil composition to obtain the aforementioned oil composition in a molten state.

[0037] (d) A cooling step of cooling the aforementioned oil composition in a molten state to obtain a powdery oil.

[0038] In addition, any process for promoting powder generation as process (c), such as (c1) seeding process, (c2) temperature adjustment process, and / or (c3) pre-cooling process, may be included between the above processes (b) and (d). Furthermore, the powdery oil and fat obtained in the above process (d) may also be obtained through process (e), which is a process of pulverizing the solid obtained after cooling in process (d) to obtain powdery oil and fat. Hereinafter, the above processes (a) to (e) will be described.

[0039] (a) Preparation process I of oil and fat composition

[0040] The oil and fat composition prepared in process (a) contains the above XXX-type triglyceride (one or more) and X2Y-type triglyceride (one or more) in the above mass %. Specifically, for example, it is obtained through the following process: separately obtaining XXX-type triglyceride (one or more) having a fatty acid residue X with a carbon number x at positions 1 to 3 and YYY-type triglyceride (one or more) having a fatty acid residue Y with a carbon number y at positions 1 to 3, mixing them in a mass ratio of XXX-type triglyceride / YYY-type triglyceride of 90 / 10 to 99 / 1 to obtain a reaction substrate (here, the aforementioned carbon number x is an integer selected from 8 to 12, and the aforementioned carbon number y is an integer selected from x + 2 to x + 8), and heating the aforementioned reaction substrate and performing a transesterification reaction in the presence of a catalyst to obtain it.

[0041] <Reaction substrate>

[0042] First, mix XXX-type triglyceride (one or more) and YYY-type triglyceride (one or more) to obtain a reaction substrate. The details of the XXX-type triglyceride here are as described above.

[0043] YYY-type triglyceride is a triglyceride having a fatty acid residue Y with a carbon number y at positions 1 to 3. Here, the carbon number y and the fatty acid residue Y are as described above.

[0044] The above XXX-type triglycerides and the above YYY-type triglycerides can also be obtained by direct synthesis using fatty acids or fatty acid derivatives and glycerol. Taking the XXX-type triglycerides as an example, as a method for directly synthesizing XXX-type triglycerides, the following can be listed: (i) a method of directly esterifying a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms with glycerol (direct ester synthesis); (ii) a method of reacting a fatty acid alkyl ester (for example, fatty acid methyl ester and fatty acid ethyl ester) formed by bonding the carboxyl group of a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms to an alkoxy group with glycerol under the conditions of an alkaline or acidic catalyst (transesterification synthesis using a fatty acid alkyl ester); (iii) a method of reacting a fatty acid halide (for example, fatty acid acyl chloride and fatty acid acyl bromide) formed by replacing the hydroxyl group of the carboxyl group of a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms with a halogen with glycerol under an alkaline catalyst (acid halide synthesis).

[0045] The XXX-type triglycerides and the YYY-type triglycerides can be produced by any of the aforementioned methods (i) to (iii). However, from the viewpoint of ease of production, (i) direct ester synthesis or (ii) transesterification synthesis using a fatty acid alkyl ester is preferred, and (i) direct ester synthesis is more preferred.

[0046] When producing the XXX-type triglycerides or the YYY-type triglycerides by (i) direct ester synthesis, from the viewpoint of production efficiency, 3 to 5 moles, more preferably 3 to 4 moles, of fatty acid X or fatty acid Y are preferably used per 1 mole of glycerol.

[0047] The reaction temperature in the (i) direct ester synthesis of the XXX-type triglycerides or the YYY-type triglycerides may be any temperature that can remove the water generated by the esterification reaction out of the system. For example, it is preferably 120°C to 300°C, more preferably 150°C to 270°C, and further preferably 180°C to 250°C. By carrying out the reaction at 180°C to 250°C, the XXX-type triglycerides or the YYY-type triglycerides can be produced particularly efficiently.

[0048] In the (i) direct ester synthesis of the XXX-type triglycerides or the YYY-type triglycerides, a catalyst that promotes the esterification reaction can also be used. As the catalyst, acid catalysts and alcoholates of alkaline earth metals can be listed. The amount of the catalyst is preferably about 0.001 to 1% by mass based on the total mass of the reaction raw materials.

[0049] In the (i) direct ester synthesis of the XXX-type triglycerides or the YYY-type triglycerides, after the reaction, known purification treatments such as washing with water, alkali deacidification and / or vacuum deacidification, and adsorption treatment can be carried out to remove the catalyst and unreacted raw materials. Furthermore, the obtained reaction product can be further purified by performing decolorization / deodorization treatment.

[0050] These XXX-type triglycerides and YYY-type triglycerides are mixed at a mass ratio of XXX-type triglyceride / YYY-type triglyceride of 90 / 10 to 99 / 1, preferably 93 / 7 to 99 / 1, more preferably 95 / 5 to 99 / 1. In particular, when the fatty acid residue X has 10 carbon atoms and the fatty acid residue Y has 14 to 18 carbon atoms, the mass ratio of XXX-type triglyceride / YYY-type triglyceride is preferably 95 / 5 to 99 / 1. In addition, when the fatty acid residue X has 12 carbon atoms and the fatty acid residue Y has 16 to 18 carbon atoms, the mass ratio of XXX-type triglyceride / YYY-type triglyceride is preferably 95 / 5 to 99 / 1.

[0051] <Other triglycerides>

[0052] As the triglyceride as a raw material for the reaction substrate, in addition to the above XXX-type triglyceride and YYY-type triglyceride, various triglycerides can be included as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. As other triglycerides, for example, X2Y-type triglycerides in which one fatty acid residue X of the above XXX-type triglyceride is replaced with a fatty acid residue Y, XY2-type triglycerides in which two fatty acid residues X of the above XXX-type triglyceride are replaced with a fatty acid residue Y, etc. can be cited.

[0053] When the total mass of XXX-type triglyceride and YYY-type triglyceride is set to 100% by mass, the amount of the above other triglycerides is, for example, 0 to 15% by mass, preferably 0 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0 to 4% by mass.

[0054] In addition, a triglyceride composition of natural origin can be used instead of the above XXX-type triglyceride and YYY-type triglyceride. As the triglyceride composition of natural origin, for example, oil palm kernel oil, oil palm kernel olein, oil palm kernel stearin, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, safflower oil, palm stearin, etc. can be cited. These triglyceride compositions of natural origin can also be hydrogenated oils, partially hydrogenated oils, and extremely hydrogenated oils modified by hydrogenation or the like.

[0055] The amount of the above triglyceride composition of natural origin depends on the amount of the required XXX-type triglyceride or YYY-type triglyceride contained in these triglyceride compositions of natural origin. For example, when X of the XXX-type triglyceride is capric acid and an extremely hydrogenated oil of oil palm kernel stearin is used as the source of the YYY-type triglyceride, the triglyceride having a Y residue at the 1st to 3rd positions contained in this extremely hydrogenated oil of oil palm kernel stearin contains the amount required as the above YYY-type triglyceride, that is, an amount satisfying 90 / 10 to 99 / 1, preferably 93 / 7 to 99 / 1, more preferably 95 / 5 to 98 / 2 in terms of the mass ratio of XXX-type triglyceride / YYY-type triglyceride is suitable.

[0056] <Other components>

[0057] As raw materials constituting the reaction substrate, in addition to the above triglycerides, other components such as glycerol partial esters, antioxidants, emulsifiers, solvents such as water, etc. can also be arbitrarily included. The amounts of these other components can be set to any amount as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. For example, when the mass of the obtained reaction substrate is set to 100% by mass, it is 0 to 5% by mass, preferably 0 to 2% by mass, more preferably 0 to 1% by mass.

[0058] For mixing, any well-known mixing method can be used as long as a homogeneous reaction substrate can be obtained. For example, a paddle mixer, an axial flow homogenizing mixer, a dispersion mixer, etc. can be used for mixing.

[0059] This mixing can also be carried out under heating as needed. The heating is preferably at the same level as the heating temperature in the subsequent step (b), for example, carried out at 50 to 120°C, preferably at 60 to 100°C, more preferably at 70 to 90°C, and further preferably at 80°C. It should be noted that when adding an enzyme as a catalyst, it is preferably that there is as little water as possible before adding the enzyme. The amount of water before adding the enzyme is, for example, 10% by mass or less, preferably 0.001 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 3% by mass, and further preferably 0.01 to 2% by mass relative to the total mass of the raw materials. This mixing can be continued for, for example, 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 10 to 50 minutes, more preferably 20 to 40 minutes.

[0060] <Transesterification reaction>

[0061] Heat the above reaction substrate (a mixture containing XXX-type triglyceride and YYY-type triglyceride), and carry out a transesterification reaction in the presence of a catalyst to obtain a transesterification reaction product (an oil and fat composition containing XXX-type triglyceride and X2Y-type triglyceride).

[0062] The transesterification reaction is not particularly limited, and a commonly used transesterification reaction can be used.

[0063] Here, the heating is carried out, for example, at 50 to 120°C, preferably at 60 to 100°C, more preferably at 70 to 90°C, and further preferably at 80°C.

[0064] As the catalyst, an enzyme, an alkali metal alkoxide, an alkaline earth metal alkoxide, etc. can be used. As the enzyme, an immobilized enzyme and a powder enzyme can be used. From the aspects of enzyme activity and operation convenience, a powder enzyme is preferred.

[0065] The powdered enzyme is obtained by drying and powdering an aqueous liquid containing an enzyme by methods such as spray drying, freeze drying, and drying after solvent precipitation, and is not particularly limited. For example, lipase derived from Alcaligenes sp. (Meito Sangyo Co., Ltd., trade name: Lipase QLM) can be cited.

[0066] As the immobilized enzyme, those obtained by immobilizing the enzyme on carriers such as silica, Celite diatomaceous earth, diatomaceous earth, perlite, polyvinyl alcohol, anion exchange resin, phenol adsorption resin, hydrophobic carrier, cation exchange resin, chelating resin, etc. can be used.

[0067] Among alkali metal alkoxides and alkaline earth metal alkoxides that can be used as catalysts, as the alkali metal, lithium, sodium, potassium, etc. can be preferably used. As the alkaline earth metal, magnesium and calcium can be preferably used. As the alkoxide, methoxide, ethoxide, propoxide, n-butoxide, tert-butoxide, etc. can be cited, and methoxide and ethoxide are preferred. As preferred alkali metal alkoxides and alkaline earth metal alkoxides, sodium methoxide, sodium ethoxide, magnesium methoxide, magnesium ethoxide, etc. can be cited, and sodium methoxide is more preferred.

[0068] These catalysts can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and it is preferred not to use the enzyme-based catalyst and the alkoxide-based catalyst simultaneously.

[0069] The amount of the catalyst is sufficient as long as the transesterification reaction proceeds sufficiently. For example, 0.01 to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, and further preferably 0.2 to 1% by mass is added relative to the total mass of the triglyceride as the raw material. In addition to the above catalysts, any co-catalyst can also be used.

[0070] For the transesterification reaction, for example, at normal pressure or reduced pressure, at the above heating temperature, it is arbitrarily carried out with stirring for, for example, 0.5 to 50 hours, preferably 1 to 40 hours, more preferably 5 to 30 hours, and further preferably 10 to 20 hours. In addition, in this reaction step, for example, the above-mentioned specified amount of catalyst can be added all at once, or the specified amount of catalyst can be divided into 2 to 30 times, preferably divided into 3 to 20 times, and more preferably divided into 5 to 15 times for addition. The timing of adding the catalyst can be immediately after the above step (a), or it can also be added every 1 to 2 hours after the first addition of the catalyst.

[0071] (a) Preparation step II of the oil and fat composition

[0072] As a method for producing the oil and fat composition prepared in step (a) of the present invention, another example is a method for simultaneously directly synthesizing a XXX triglyceride and an X2Y triglyceride as shown below. That is, in this preparation step II, rather than synthesizing a XXX triglyceride and a YYY triglyceride separately and then performing transesterification to obtain a XXX triglyceride and an X2Y triglyceride, the raw materials for producing both triglycerides (fatty acids or fatty acid derivatives and glycerol) are placed in a single reaction vessel, for example, for simultaneous direct synthesis. The production method can include any of the following methods.

[0073] Examples include: (iv) a method in which a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms and a fatty acid Y having y carbon atoms are directly esterified with glycerol (direct ester synthesis); (v) a method in which a fatty acid alkyl ester (e.g., fatty acid methyl ester and fatty acid ethyl ester) obtained by bonding the carboxyl group of the fatty acid X having x carbon atoms and the fatty acid Y having y carbon atoms to an alkoxy group is reacted with glycerol under alkaline or acidic catalyst conditions (ester exchange synthesis using fatty acid alkyl esters); and (vi) a method in which a fatty acid halide (e.g., fatty acid chloride and fatty acid bromide) obtained by replacing the hydroxyl group of the carboxyl group of the fatty acid X having x carbon atoms and the fatty acid Y having y carbon atoms with a halogen is reacted with glycerol under alkaline catalyst conditions (acid halide synthesis).

[0074] The oil and fat composition of the present invention can be produced by any of the aforementioned methods. From the viewpoint of ease of production, (iv) direct ester synthesis or (v) transesterification synthesis using fatty acid alkyl esters is preferred, with (iv) direct ester synthesis being more preferred.

[0075] In the (iv) direct ester synthesis of the oil and fat composition of the present invention, the production method is not particularly limited as long as the mass % content of XXX triglycerides and X2Y triglycerides in the total triglycerides is within the desired range. However, in order to reliably produce the desired triglycerides in the system, a two-stage reaction is preferably performed. Specifically, a preferred method is to react glycerol with a fatty acid X having a carbon number x and containing a fatty acid Y having a carbon number y in the first stage, and then, in the second stage, add the fatty acid X having a carbon number x and react to produce an oil and fat composition containing predetermined amounts of XXX triglycerides and X2Y triglycerides.

[0076] In the first stage of a two-stage reaction, the total molar amount of fatty acids Y and X in the total glycerides is adjusted to a desired mass % range, preferably 0.5 to 2.8 mol, more preferably 0.8 to 2.57 mol, and most preferably 1.1 to 2.2 mol per 1 mol of glycerol. This ensures reliable esterification with glycerol without residual fatty acid Y, ultimately allowing for more reliable production of X2Y triglycerides within the system.

[0077] In the direct ester synthesis of the oil and fat composition of the present invention, the reaction temperature only needs to be a temperature capable of removing the water generated by the esterification reaction outside the system, preferably 120°C to 300°C, more preferably 150°C to 270°C, and further preferably 180°C to 250°C. By carrying out the reaction at 180 to 250°C, X2Y type triglycerides can be produced particularly efficiently.

[0078] In the (iv) direct ester synthesis of the oil and fat composition of the present invention, a catalyst that promotes the esterification reaction can be used. Examples of the catalyst include acid catalysts and alcoholates of alkaline earth metals. The amount of the catalyst is preferably about 0.001 to 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the reaction raw materials.

[0079] In the (iv) direct ester synthesis of the oil and fat composition of the present invention, after the reaction, known purification treatments such as washing with water, alkali deacidification and / or vacuum deacidification, and adsorption treatment can be carried out to remove the catalyst and unreacted raw materials. Furthermore, by performing decolorization / deodorization treatment, the obtained reaction product can be further purified.

[0080] (a) Preparation step III of the oil and fat composition

[0081] The oil and fat composition can be further obtained by the following method: preparing an oil and fat composition containing XXX type triglycerides not in the range of 80 to 99% by mass and / or X2Y type triglycerides not in the range of 20 to 1% by mass, and then further adding XXX type triglycerides or X2Y type triglycerides to obtain an oil and fat composition containing 80 to 99% by mass of XXX type triglycerides and 20 to 1% by mass of X2Y type triglycerides (preparing the oil and fat composition by dilution). For example, after obtaining an oil and fat composition containing 50 to 70% by mass of XXX type triglycerides and 50 to 30% by mass of X2Y type triglycerides, adding a desired amount of XXX type triglycerides can obtain an oil and fat composition containing 80 to 99% by mass of XXX type triglycerides and 20 to 1% by mass of X2Y type triglycerides.

[0082] In addition, the above adjustment step III further includes: temporarily preparing an oil and fat composition containing XXX type triglycerides in the range of 80 to 99% by mass and / or X2Y type triglycerides in the range of 20 to 1% by mass based on the above preparation step I or II, and then further adding XXX type triglycerides or X2Y type triglycerides to adjust the mass percentages of XXX type triglycerides and X2Y type triglycerides to a more preferred range (preparing a more suitable oil and fat composition by dilution).

[0083] (b) Step of obtaining the above-mentioned oil and fat composition in a molten state

[0084] Before the above step (d), if the oil and fat composition obtained in the above step (a) is in a molten state when it is to be prepared, it can be directly cooled without heating. If it is not in a molten state when obtained, it can be selectively heated to melt the triglycerides contained in the oil and fat composition, thereby obtaining an oil and fat composition in a molten state.

[0085] Here, the heating temperature of the oil and fat composition needs to reach a temperature above the melting point of the triglycerides contained in the above oil and fat composition, especially a temperature capable of melting the XXX-type triglycerides and X2Y-type triglycerides. For example, a temperature of 70 to 200 °C, preferably 75 to 150 °C, and more preferably 80 to 100 °C is suitable. In addition, the heating duration is, for example, 0.5 to 3 hours, preferably 0.5 to 2 hours, and more preferably 0.5 to 1 hour is suitable.

[0086] (d) Step of cooling the molten oil and fat composition to obtain a powdered oil and fat composition

[0087] Further cool the molten oil and fat composition obtained in the above step (a) or (b) to form a powdered oil and fat.

[0088] Here, "cooling the molten oil and fat composition" means maintaining the molten oil and fat composition at a temperature lower than the melting point of the oil and fat composition. "A temperature lower than the melting point of the oil and fat composition" means, for example, a temperature 1 to 30 °C lower than the melting point, preferably 1 to 20 °C lower than the melting point, and more preferably 1 to 15 °C lower than the melting point. When x is 8 to 10, the final temperature during the cooling of the molten oil and fat composition is preferably 10 to 30 °C, more preferably 15 to 25 °C, and further preferably 18 to 22 °C. For example, when x is 11 or 12, the final temperature during cooling is preferably 30 to 40 °C, more preferably 32 to 38 °C, and further preferably 33 to 37 °C. At the above final temperature, it is suitable to let it stand for, for example, preferably more than 2 hours, more preferably more than 4 hours, and further preferably 6 hours to 2 days. Especially if the following step (c) is not used, it may also be necessary to let it stand for, for example, 2 to 8 days, specifically 3 to 7 days, and more specifically about 6 days.

[0089] (c) Powder generation promotion step

[0090] In addition, between the above-mentioned steps (a) or (b) and (d), as an arbitrary step (c) for promoting powder formation, the molten grease composition used in step (d) can also be treated by the seeding method (c1), the tempering method (c2), and / or the precooling method (c3). Any of these steps (c1) to (c3) can be carried out individually or in combination of multiple steps. Here, between step (a) or (b) and step (d) means during step (a) or (b), after step (a) or (b) and before step (d), and during step (d).

[0091] The seeding method (c1) and the tempering method (c2) refer to methods for promoting powder formation in the manufacture of powdered grease, in which the molten grease composition is treated before being cooled to the final temperature in order to more reliably form the molten grease composition into a powder.

[0092] Here, the method of the seeding method is to promote powdering by adding a small amount of the component that becomes the core (seed crystal) of the powder when cooling the molten grease composition. Specifically, for example, grease powder is prepared as the component that becomes the core (seed crystal). The grease powder preferably contains 80% by mass or more, more preferably 90% by mass or more of the same type of triglyceride as the carbon number of the XXX-type triglyceride in the molten grease composition obtained in step (b). In this method, when cooling the molten grease composition, when the temperature of the grease composition reaches, for example, the final cooling temperature ±0 to +10°C, preferably +5 to +10°C, 0.1 to 1 part by mass, preferably 0.2 to 0.8 part by mass of the grease powder that becomes the core is added to 100 parts by mass of the molten grease composition, thereby promoting the powdering of the grease composition.

[0093] The method of the tempering method is to promote the powdering of the grease composition by temporarily cooling it to a temperature lower than the cooling temperature of step (d), for example, a temperature lower by 5 to 20°C, preferably lower by 7 to 15°C, more preferably about 10°C, and cooling for preferably 10 to 120 minutes, more preferably about 30 to 90 minutes, before standing at the final cooling temperature when cooling the molten grease composition.

[0094] (c3) The method of pre-cooling is that before cooling the molten fat composition obtained in the foregoing step (a) or (b) based on step (d), it is temporarily pre-cooled at a temperature lower than the temperature of the molten state in step (a) or (b) and higher than the cooling temperature in step (d). The temperature higher than the cooling temperature in step (d) can be, for example, a temperature 2 to 40 °C higher than the cooling temperature in step (d), preferably 3 to 30 °C higher, more preferably 4 to 30 °C higher, and further preferably about 5 to 10 °C higher. The lower the pre-cooling temperature is set, the shorter the main cooling time at the cooling temperature in step (d) can be. That is, different from the seed crystal method and the tempering method, the pre-cooling method is a method that can promote the pulverization of the fat composition only by gradually reducing the cooling temperature, and has great advantages in industrial production.

[0095] (e) A step of pulverizing the solid matter to obtain powdery fat

[0096] More specifically, the step of obtaining powdery fat by cooling in step (d) can be carried out by step (e), which is a step of pulverizing the solid matter obtained by cooling in step (d) to obtain powdery fat.

[0097] The details are as follows: First, the fat composition containing the above XXX-type triglyceride and the above X2Y-type triglyceride is melted to obtain a molten fat composition, and then cooled to form a porous solid matter with a volume larger than that of the molten fat composition. By applying a slight impact to the fat composition that has become a porous solid matter, it can be pulverized, and the solid matter is easily disintegrated and thus becomes powdery.

[0098] Here, the means of applying a slight impact is not particularly limited, and a method of applying a slight vibration (impact) by vibration, sieving, etc. to carry out pulverization (loosening) is simple and preferred.

[0099] (A) The content of powdery fat is preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 20% by mass or less, more preferably 0.7% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less, further preferably 0.8% by mass or more and 12% by mass or less, and still more preferably 1.0% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic. If the content of powdery fat is within the above numerical range, various properties when using the powder cosmetic (especially, the smooth feeling during application, the presence or absence of powdery feeling during application, and the luster of the skin after application) become good.

[0100] (B) Powder components (wherein, (A) powdery fat is not included)

[0101] As the (B) powder component (excluding the (A) powdery oil), there is no particular limitation, and known powder components for cosmetics can be used. As the powder component, for example, mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, silica, glass (borosilicate glass, soda-lime glass, etc.), magnesium myristate, lauroyl lysine, talc, synthetic fluorophlogopite iron, cellulose powder, polyurethane powder, silicone resin powder, polymethacrylic acid powder, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and tar pigments can be cited. These powder components can be used alone or in combination of two or more. It should be noted that the shape of the (B) powder component is not particularly limited, and examples include spherical, cubic, flaky, plate-like, rod-like, and needle-like shapes. Among these, spherical is preferred.

[0102] The total blending amount of the (A) powdery oil and the (B) powder component is preferably 90% by mass or more and 99.9% by mass or less, more preferably 93% by mass or more and less than 99.5% by mass, and further preferably 95% by mass or more and less than 99% by mass, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic. When the total blending amount of the (A) powdery oil and the (B) powder component is within the above numerical range, various properties when using the powder cosmetic (especially, the smooth feeling during application, the presence or absence of powderiness during application, and the luster of the skin after application) become good.

[0103] (C) Liquid oil incompatible with the (A) powdery oil

[0104] As the liquid oil incompatible with the above-mentioned powdery oil, silicone oil can be suitably used.

[0105] As the silicone oil, for example, chain polyorganosiloxanes (e.g., dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.), cyclic polyorganosiloxanes (e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.), silicone resins forming a three-dimensional network structure, silica gel, various modified polyorganosiloxanes (amino-modified polyorganosiloxane, polyether-modified polyorganosiloxane, alkyl-modified polyorganosiloxane, fluorine-modified polyorganosiloxane, etc.), acrylic silicone types, etc. can be cited. These silicone oils can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0106] The content of the (C) liquid oil incompatible with the (A) powdery oil is not particularly limited, and is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 7% by mass or less, and further preferably 1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the powder cosmetic. When the content of the liquid oil incompatible with the (A) powdery oil is within the above numerical range, various properties when using the powder cosmetic (especially, the smooth feeling during application, the presence or absence of powderiness during application, and the luster of the skin after application) become good.

[0107] In the powder cosmetic, the mixing ratio (A / C) of the component (powdered oil) (A) relative to the component (liquid oil incompatible with the powdered oil) (C) is preferably 0.1 or more and 10 or less, more preferably 0.2 or more and 7 or less, and further preferably 0.5 or more and 5 or less, based on mass. When the mixing ratio (A / C) is within the above numerical range, various characteristics when using the powder cosmetic (particularly, the smooth feeling during application, the presence or absence of a powdery feeling during application, and the luster of the skin after application) become good.

[0108] (Other components)

[0109] In the cosmetic based on the present invention, within the range not impairing the effects of the present invention, other components that can be incorporated in the cosmetic may be included in addition to the above components. Examples of such other components include ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, dispersants, neutralizing agents, chelating agents, preservatives, surface treatment agents, antioxidants, stabilizers, colorants, edible flavors, etc. These components can be appropriately incorporated according to the dosage form of the cosmetic.

[0110] As ultraviolet absorbers, for example, benzoic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers can be mentioned (for example, p-aminobenzoic acid (hereinafter simply referred to as PABA), monoglyceryl PABA ester, N,N-dipropoxyethyl PABA, N,N-diethoxyethyl PABA, N,N-dimethyl ethyl PABA, N,N-dimethyl butyl PABA, N,N-dimethyl ethyl PABA, etc.); anthranilic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers (for example, homomenthyl N-acetylanthranilate, etc.); salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers (for example, amyl salicylate, menthyl salicylate, homosalate, octyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropylphenyl salicylate, etc.); cinnamic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers (for example, ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropylcinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropylcinnamate, ethyl 2,4-diisopropylcinnamate, methyl 2,4-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl-di-p-methoxycinnamate, etc.); benzophenone-based ultraviolet absorbers (for example, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenyl-benzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone, etc.); 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3-benzylidene-d,l-camphor; 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole; 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole; 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-tert-octylphenyl)benzotriazole; 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzalazine; dianisoylmethane; 4-methoxy-4'-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one, etc.

[0111] As the humectant, there is no particular limitation, and known humectants can be used as cosmetics. As such humectants, for example, polyhydric alcohols and ethylene glycol ethers can be mentioned. More specifically, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, isopentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, diglycerol (EO)PO adduct, etc. can be mentioned.

[0112] The powder cosmetic of the present invention can be manufactured according to a conventional method, and its manufacturing method is not particularly limited.

[0113] (Use)

[0114] The powder cosmetic of the present invention can be suitably used as all powder cosmetics such as loose powder, pressed powder, powder solid foundation, eyeshadow, etc. The powder cosmetic of the present invention is particularly preferably used as loose powder.

[0115] Examples

[0116] The present invention will be specifically described based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the content is expressed in mass%.

[0117] [Examples 1 to 4, Comparative Examples 1 to 5]

[0118] <Preparation of powder cosmetic>

[0119] Loose powders of each example and comparative example were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 2. It should be noted that in Tables 1 to 2, the mixing ratios of the respective components are in mass%.

[0120] In addition, the triglyceride composition of the powdery oil used in the powder cosmetic was analyzed by the following method.

[0121] [Analysis method]

[0122] ·Triglyceride composition

[0123] Gas chromatography analysis conditions

[0124] DB1-ht (0.32 mm × 0.1 μm × 5 m), Agilent Technologies (123-1131)

[0125] Injection volume: 1.0 μL

[0126] Injection port: 370 °C

[0127] Detector: 370 °C

[0128] Split ratio: 50 / 1, 35.1 kPa constant pressure

[0129] Column CT: From 200 °C (held for 0 min) at 15 °C / min to 370 °C (held for 4 min)

[0130] <Performance evaluation of powder cosmetic>

[0131] The usability of each of the above-prepared powder cosmetics was evaluated. Specifically, 10 professional panelists who had received training in sensory evaluation and were able to evaluate based on certain criteria applied the test samples to their faces and evaluated each of the following characteristics with the results of Comparative Example 1 as the benchmark. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 1-2.

[0132] [Smoothness during application]

[0133] A: Compared with the benchmark, the smoothness during application is extremely excellent.

[0134] B: Compared with the benchmark, the smoothness during application is excellent.

[0135] C: Compared with the benchmark, the smoothness during application is slightly excellent.

[0136] D: Equivalent to the benchmark.

[0137] E: Compared with the benchmark, the smoothness during application is poor.

[0138] [Presence or absence of powdery feeling during application]

[0139] A: Compared with the benchmark, there is no powdery feeling during application and it is extremely excellent.

[0140] B: Compared with the benchmark, there is no powdery feeling during application and it is excellent.

[0141] C: Compared with the benchmark, there is slightly no powdery feeling during application and it is slightly excellent.

[0142] D: Equivalent to the benchmark.

[0143] E: Compared with the benchmark, there is a powdery feeling during application and it is poor.

[0144] [Luster of the skin after application]

[0145] A: Compared with the benchmark, the luster of the skin after application is extremely excellent.

[0146] B: Compared with the benchmark, the luster of the skin after application is excellent.

[0147] C: Compared with the benchmark, the luster of the skin after application is slightly excellent.

[0148] D: Equivalent to the benchmark.

[0149] E: Compared with the benchmark, the luster of the skin is poor.

[0150] [Ease of granulation]

[0151] A: Compared with the benchmark, the ease of granulation is extremely excellent.

[0152] B: Compared with the benchmark, the ease of granulation is excellent.

[0153] C: Slightly superior in terms of granulation ease compared to the reference.

[0154] D: Equivalent to the reference.

[0155] E: Inferior in terms of granulation ease compared to the reference.

[0156] [Table 1]

[0157]

[0158] [Table 2]

[0159]

[0160] ※ "Std": Reference for each evaluation

[0161] ※1: Manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd., Trade name: Enequick (when the total triglyceride content is set to 100% by mass, the content of more than one type of XXX triglyceride having fatty acid residue X with 10 carbon atoms at positions 1 to 3 is 93.9% by mass, and the content of X2Y triglyceride in which one fatty acid residue X of the XXX triglyceride is replaced by fatty acid residue Y with 14 carbon atoms is 5.4% by mass. Melting point (peak value of DSC graph) 28.5 °C)

[0162] Based on the above results, it can be seen that: the smoothness during application, the presence or absence of powdery feeling during application, and the luster of the skin after application of the powder cosmetic of the present invention are all excellent. In addition, considering the results of the comparative examples, it can be seen that: by blending specific powdery oils, powder components other than powdery oils, and liquid oils incompatible with the powdery oils in the powder cosmetic of the present invention, excellent effects are achieved.

[0163] <Formulation examples of powder cosmetics>

[0164] The following blended components were mixed to prepare a powder cosmetic. The following values are expressed in mass%.

[0165] (Blended components)

[0166]

[0167] According to the above formulation examples, a powder cosmetic with excellent smoothness during application, the presence or absence of powdery feeling during application, and the luster of the skin after application can be manufactured. As a result, the formulation range of cosmetics can be broadened.

Claims

1. A powder cosmetic, comprising: (A) a powdery oil, which, when the total triglyceride content is set to 100% by mass, contains: 80 to 99% by mass of one or more XXX-type triglycerides having fatty acid residues X with carbon number x at positions 1 to 3, and 20 to 1% by mass of one or more X2Y-type triglycerides in which one fatty acid residue X of the XXX-type triglyceride is replaced with a fatty acid residue Y having carbon number y, the carbon number x being an integer selected from 8 to 12, and the carbon number y being independently an integer selected from x + 2 to x + 8; (B) Powder components, wherein, excluding (A) the powdery oil; and (C) a liquid oil incompatible with (A) the powdery oil.

2. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (A) The powdery oil, when the total triglyceride content is set to 100% by mass, contains: 90 to 99% by mass of XXX-type triglycerides having fatty acid residues X with carbon number x at positions 1 to 3, and 10 to 1% by mass of one or more X2Y-type triglycerides in which one fatty acid residue X of the XXX-type triglyceride is replaced with a fatty acid residue Y having carbon number y, the carbon number x being 10, and the carbon number y being independently an integer selected from x + 4 to x + 8.

3. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (A) The melting point of the powdery oil is 25°C or higher and 50°C or lower.

4. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (A) The blending amount of the powdery oil is 0.5% by mass or more and 20% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the powder cosmetic.

5. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (C) The blending amount of the liquid oil is 0.1% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the powder cosmetic.

6. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (A) The blending ratio (A / C) of the powdery oil to (C) the liquid oil is 0.1 or more and 10 or less on a mass basis.

7. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (A) The total blending amount of the powdery oil and (B) the powder component is 90% by mass or more and 99.9% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the powder cosmetic.

8. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (C) The liquid oil is a silicone oil.

9. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein, (B) The powder component contains at least one selected from the group consisting of mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, silica, glass, magnesium myristate, lauroyl lysine, talc, synthetic fluorophlogopite iron, cellulose powder, polyurethane powder, silicone resin powder, polymethacrylic acid powder, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and tar pigments.

10. The powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein, The powder cosmetic is loose powder.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Figure reader

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