Yakwool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric production process

Abstract

The invention discloses a production process of a yakwool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric. The production process comprises the following steps: S1, preparation of warp yarns, S2, preparation of weft yarns, S3, warping, S4, slashing, S5, drafting, reed insertion and weaving, S6, desizing, S7, refining, S8, pre-shaping, S9, soft finishing, S10, napping and shearing, and S11, shaping. The warp yarns are yakwool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarns. The yakwool elastic core-spun yarn comprises core yarn and a covering fiber layer, the core yarn is polylactic acid comfortable stretch yarn blended yarn, and the covering fiber layer is yakwool fiber. And the yakwool elastic core-spun yarns are adopted in the weft direction and are raised, so that the woven fabric has fluffiness and heat retention property and also has good hand feeling. The PVA fibers are used in the warp yarns, so that after sizing, the PVA fibers are dissolved in water and can be regarded as size to permeate into the yarns, the sizing effect is improved, and weaving is smoother.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a production process of a yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric, belonging to the technical field of woven fabric preparation. Background Art

[0002] Yak wool fabrics are made from yarn woven from yak wool. Yaks are a breed native to the alpine grasslands of China's Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and adjacent areas. They are adapted to altitudes of 3,200-4,800 meters and can withstand temperatures as low as -30-40 degrees Celsius. In winter, they grow a dense, thick down on the underside of their chests, which naturally sheds as temperatures rise. The wool is harvested annually, starting around May or June, by hand-pulling. Adult yaks produce 1.17-2.62 kg of wool annually, while young yaks produce 1.30-1.35 kg, with a half-weight split between coarse hair and down. Yak wool is very fine, with a diameter of less than 20 microns and a length of 3.4-4.5 cm. It has irregular curves and tightly interlocking scales. It has a soft luster, strong elasticity, and a smooth, waxy feel. The yak's habitat gives it exceptional warmth and a fluffy feel. Yak wool is 1.5 times stronger than cashmere, making it more resistant to pilling and less prone to dimensional change after washing. Yak wool fabrics have recently become widely used in clothing, offering warmth and comfort comparable to cashmere.

[0003] Shu-Stretch is a functional fiber produced by DuPont in the United States. It is skin-friendly, soft, and has excellent elastic recovery. While not as stretchy as spandex, it offers long-lasting elasticity, is resistant to strong acids and alkalis, and won't break like spandex. It also offers excellent wrinkle resistance and shape retention. Furthermore, Shu-Stretch's surface isn't as smooth as polyester, and its cross-section isn't cylindrical, but rather an irregular polygon. The interfiber bond is stronger than that of polyester, so Shu-Stretch doesn't pill like polyester. It also dyes very well, producing vibrant colors. While Shu-Stretch has many properties superior to regular polyester, its air and moisture permeability are inferior to those of polyester. Shu-Stretch can be blended with a variety of fibers, and the resulting yarn retains the excellent properties of the blended fibers while also achieving excellent elasticity.

[0004] PLA fiber, or polylactic acid fiber, is made from lactic acid derived from starch. It is a biodegradable fiber that is naturally recycled. The fiber is soft, smooth, strong, moisture-wicking, and breathable. The resulting product has a silky sheen and a pleasant feel, along with excellent drape, heat resistance, and UV resistance, ensuring wearability.

[0005] The yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch silk blended fabric has both elasticity and warmth retention as well as good skin touch. How to prepare this fabric has become a problem to be solved. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The invention aims to provide a production process of yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabrics, wherein the prepared woven fabrics have the characteristics of warmth retention and elasticity.

[0007] In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the purpose of the present invention is achieved as follows:

[0008] The present invention relates to a production process for a yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0009] S1. Preparation of warp yarn: the warp yarn is a yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn;

[0010] S2. Preparation of weft yarn: The weft yarn is a yak wool elastic core-spun yarn, which comprises a core yarn and a covering fiber layer, wherein the core yarn is a polylactic acid stretch yarn blended yarn, and the covering fiber layer is yak wool fiber;

[0011] S3, warping: adopt batch warping method, tension gradient control, front row 15-20cN, back row 25-30cN;

[0012] S4. Sizing: Use compound sizing agent to size the yarn and dry it. The sizing rate is 5-6%, and the moisture regain is controlled at 2.5-3.5%;

[0013] The compound slurry comprises 3-5 wt% of hexanoate starch, 1-2 wt% of polyvinyl alcohol 1799, 0.2-0.5 wt% of a softener, 0.1-0.2 wt% of an antistatic agent, 0.2-0.3 wt% of 2-naphthol, 0.3-0.5 wt% of wax flakes, and the balance of water;

[0014] S5, drawing in and reeding and weaving: using satin weave for weaving;

[0015] S6. Desizing: Desizing is performed using cellulase at a pH of 6.5-7.0 and at 50-55°C for 30-40 minutes.

[0016] S7, Scouring: Use 2-3g / L nonionic surfactant at 75-80℃ for 20-30min;

[0017] S8, pre-forming: temperature is 95-100℃, time is 45-60s;

[0018] S9, Softening Finishing: Impregnate the pre-shaped fabric with a softening finishing agent at a temperature of 40-45°C for 15-20 minutes, with a rolling rate of 70-75%, and a drying temperature of 110-115°C for 2-2.5 minutes;

[0019] S10, raising and shearing: the weft side is raised with a raising machine, the counter-clockwise speed difference is 10-15%; the shearing height is 1.2-1.5mm;

[0020] S11. Setting: The setting temperature is 110-115℃.

[0021] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the length of the yak wool is ≥35mm and the fineness is ≤18μm, the polylactic acid fiber is 1.4dtex×38mm short fiber with a moisture content of ≤0.05%; the stretch yarn is 0.9dtex×38mm short fiber with an elastic recovery rate of ≥85%; the average molecular weight of the raw material of the PVA fiber is 60,000-150,000, the thermal decomposition temperature is 200-220°C, the melting point is 225-230°C, the fineness is 1.56D, and the length is 38mm.

[0022] On the basis of the above solution and as a preferred solution of the above solution: the preparation of the yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn comprises the following steps:

[0023] S1-1 Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and hair treatment and PLA antistatic treatment;

[0024] The yak wool treatment comprises spraying the yak wool with wool oil and curing the yak wool at 25-30° C. and 65-70% relative humidity for 12-24 hours, wherein the wool oil contains an antistatic agent;

[0025] The antistatic treatment of PLA refers to spraying the PLA fibers evenly with antistatic treatment liquid and drying them at 45-50°C.

[0026] S1-2, mixing and opening: yak wool, PLA fiber and PVA fiber are mixed by flat laying and straight taking method, and then pre-opening and fine opening are performed, using a corner nail drum cotton opener for pre-opening and a combing needle beater cotton opener for fine opening;

[0027] S1-3. Carding: Carding is performed using an LFN288 cashmere combined carding machine. The cylinder speed is 300-350 rpm, the linear speed ratio of the doffer to the cylinder is 1:20-25, and the linear speed ratio of the licker-in to the cylinder is 1:2.0-2.5. The gauge distance between the doffer and the cylinder is 0.1-0.12 mm, and the gauge distance between the licker-in and the cylinder is 0.15 mm. The basis weight of the carded sliver is 16-20 g / 5 m.

[0028] S1-4, drawing: adopts three-pass drawing process, including first drawing, second drawing and final drawing, with the drawing numbers of 6, 8 and 8 respectively, and the total draft ratios of 6.8, 7.2 and 7.8 respectively;

[0029] S1-5, roving: relative humidity is controlled at 65-75%, and the twist coefficient of the prepared roving is 380-400;

[0030] S1-6, spun yarn: Ring spinning is used, with a spindle speed of 10,000-12,000 rpm, a PG14054 steel ring, a twist of 750-800 twists / m, a back draft of 1.15-1.20 times, and a collector installed. The width is 3-5 mm, the jaw gap is 2.5-3 mm, and the hardness of the rubber roller is 78 Shore A. A false twister is installed on the front roller, with a false twist of 1200 twists / m.

[0031] S1-7, steam setting: vacuum steam setting is adopted, the temperature is 105-110℃, and the time is 20-30min.

[0032] On the basis of the above solution and as a preferred solution of the above solution: the preparation of the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn comprises the following steps:

[0033] S2-1. Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and wool treatment and antistatic treatment of PLA and stretch yarn;

[0034] The yak wool treatment refers to spraying the yak wool with a wool treatment oil and curing it at 25-30°C and 65-70% relative humidity for 12-24 hours, wherein the wool treatment oil contains an antistatic agent. The antistatic treatment of the stretch yarn refers to adding an antistatic agent and a silicone oil-based lubricant when the stretch yarn filaments are cut. The antistatic treatment of PLA refers to evenly spraying the PLA fibers with an antistatic treatment liquid and drying them at 45-50°C.

[0035] S2-2, cotton opening and cleaning: PLA fiber and stretch yarn are opened and loosened using a multi-bin cotton blending machine and a fine cotton opener. The beater speed is 150-200 rpm, the dust bar spacing is 8-10 mm, the cotton lap basis weight is 380-400 g / m, the temperature in the workshop is 25℃±2℃, and the relative humidity is 65%±5%;

[0036] S2-3, carding: carding the mixed PLA fiber and stretch yarn fiber with a carding machine, the cylinder speed is 330-360rpm, the licker-in speed is 350-700rpm, the sliver output speed is 80-100m / min, and the carded sliver weight is 18-20g / 5m;

[0037] The gauge between the licker-in and the feed plate is 0.15-0.20 mm, the gauge between the licker-in and the cylinder is 0.10-0.15 mm, the gauge between the cylinder and the doffer is 0.08-0.12 mm, the gauge between the cylinder and the cover at the entrance is 0.18-0.25 mm, and the gauge between the cylinder and the cover at the exit is 0.12-0.18 mm;

[0038] S2-4 drawing: adopts three-pass drawing including first drawing, second drawing and last drawing, with the drawing numbers of 6, 8 and 8 respectively, the total drafting ratio is 6.5, 7.5 and 7.8 respectively, and the sliver weight is 3-3.5g / 5m;

[0039] S2-5, roving: spindle speed 800 rpm, twist coefficient 380, axial winding density 3.2 turns / cm;

[0040] S2-6, spun yarn: spindle speed 12000 rpm, twist 850 twist / m, Z twist, traveler #6802, back draft 1.25 times, nip gauge 2.5 mm, to prepare PLA / smooth stretch yarn blended yarn as the core yarn;

[0041] S2-7, preparation of yak wool strips: The yak wool that has been combed is used to prepare yak wool strips using a wool-type combing machine, with a basis weight of 12-15 g / m, and a collector is installed in the drafting area, with a width of 6 mm;

[0042] S2-8. Preparation of yak wool elastic core-spun yarn: PLA / comfortable stretch yarn blended yarn and yak wool strips were used to prepare yak wool elastic core-spun yarn using a hollow spindle fancy twisting machine. The core yarn was fed at a speed of 15 m / min, the yak wool strip feed rate was 0.8-1.2 g / m, the hollow spindle speed was 8000-10000 rpm, and the yak wool strips were coated on the outside of the PLA / comfortable stretch yarn in the S direction. The overfeed ratio of the core yarn to the coating fiber was 1:1.25, the winding tension was 12-15 cN, and the winding density was 0.3-0.35 g / cm3.

[0043] S2-9, Steam setting: Use saturated steam for steam setting, the temperature is 105-110℃, and the time is 25-35min.

[0044] On the basis of the above solution and as a preferred solution of the above solution: the needle tooth density of the metal card cloth used in the cylinder of the carding machine used in step S2-2 is 460-500 points / inch 2 The card cloth includes a base and needle teeth, the tooth tip hardness is ≥780HV, the tooth tip includes a first arc segment, a straight segment and a second arc segment, the radius of the first arc segment is 0.05mm, the radius of the second arc segment is 0.1mm, and the angle of the front tooth surface is 55-60°, and the angle of the rear tooth surface is 30-35°;

[0045] The doffer card wire has an eagle-beak-shaped tooth tip and a negative rake angle of -5° to -8°.

[0046] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the crude oil includes quaternary ammonium salt of terminal amino hyperbranched compound, cross-linked hyperbranched water-based polyurethane acrylate, Taiko oil, sodium fatty alcohol polyvinyl ether sulfate, soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester, octadecyl phosphate, hydroxyl-modified amino silicone oil and deionized water.

[0047] The present invention has the following beneficial effects: The present invention relates to a yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric production process. The weft direction uses yak wool elastic core-spun yarn and is raised, resulting in a woven fabric that is fluffy and warm, while also having a good hand feel. The use of PVA fiber in the warp allows for water dissolution after sizing, which can be seen as the sizing penetrating into the yarn, thereby improving the sizing effect and facilitating smoother weaving. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0048] Figure 1 This is a flow chart of the production process of the yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric involved in the present invention;

[0049] Figure 2 This is a schematic structural diagram of the needle teeth on the metal card clothing used in the cylinder of the carding machine for the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn of the present invention;

[0050] Figure 3 yes Figure 2 A partial enlarged view of point A in the middle.

[0051] The markings in the figure are as follows: 1-base fabric; 2-needle teeth; 21-first arc segment; 22-straight segment; 23-second arc segment; 24-front tooth surface; 25-rear tooth surface. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0052] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.

[0053] Example 1

[0054] Combine Figure 1 、 Figure 2 and Figure 3 The present embodiment is described in detail. The present invention relates to a yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric production process, comprising the following steps: S1 warp yarn preparation, S2 weft yarn preparation, S3 warping, S4 sizing, S5 drawing in, reeding, and weaving, S6 desizing, S7 scouring, S8 pre-setting, S9 soft finishing, S10 napping and shearing, and S11 shaping.

[0055] In the preparation of the warp yarn in step S1, the warp yarn is a yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn.

[0056] Furthermore, the preparation of the yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn includes the following steps:

[0057] S1-1 Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and hair treatment and PLA antistatic treatment; the yak wool has a length ≥ 35 mm and a fineness ≤ 18 μm; the polylactic acid fiber is a short fiber of 1.4 dtex × 38 mm with a moisture content ≤ 0.05%; the PVA fiber has an average molecular weight of 60,000 to 150,000, a thermal decomposition temperature of 200 to 220°C, a melting point of 225 to 230°C, a fineness of 1.56D, and a length of 38 mm.

[0058] The yak wool conditioning treatment involves spraying the yak wool with a conditioning oil and curing it at 30°C and 65% relative humidity for 12 hours. The conditioning oil contains an antistatic agent. The amount of conditioning oil used is 2% of the weight of the yak wool. The PLA antistatic treatment involves evenly spraying the PLA fibers with an antistatic treatment agent and drying them at 45°C with a moisture content controlled between 0.1-0.3%. The amount of antistatic treatment solution used is 3% of the weight of the PLA fibers.

[0059] Furthermore, the crude oil includes quaternary ammonium salt of terminal amino hyperbranched compound, cross-linked hyperbranched waterborne polyurethane acrylate, Taiko oil, sodium fatty alcohol polyvinyl ether sulfate, soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester, octadecyl phosphate and deionized water.

[0060] Furthermore, the crude oil includes 8 parts by mass of a terminal amino hyperbranched compound quaternary ammonium salt, 12 parts by mass of a cross-linked hyperbranched waterborne polyurethane acrylate, 5 parts by mass of Taiko oil, 5 parts by mass of sodium fatty alcohol polyvinyl ether sulfate, 15 parts by mass of soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester, 3 parts by mass of octadecyl phosphate, 5 parts by mass of hydroxyl-modified amino silicone oil and 100 parts by mass of deionized water.

[0061] The antistatic treatment solution used in the antistatic treatment of PLA includes 5 wt % of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 3 wt % of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate and the balance of water.

[0062] S1-2, mixed opening: yak wool, PLA fiber and PVA fiber are mixed by flat laying and straight taking method, and then pre-opened and fine opened. A corner nail drum cotton opener is used for pre-opening, and a combing needle beater cotton opener is used for fine opening.

[0063] S1-3. Carding: Carding is performed using an LFN288 cashmere combined carding machine. The cylinder speed is 300 rpm, the linear speed ratio of the doffer to the cylinder is 1:25, and the linear speed ratio of the licker-in to the cylinder is 1:2.5. The gauge distance between the doffer and the cylinder is 0.1-0.12 mm, and the gauge distance between the licker-in and the cylinder is 0.15 mm. The basis weight of the carded sliver is 18.2 g / 5 m. Because PLA fibers are prone to static electricity accumulation, which can cause the web to break, an ion air bar is installed above the web in the carding machine, 10 cm away from the web.

[0064] S1-4, Drawing: A three-stage drawing process is used, including the first, second, and final draws. The draws are 6, 8, and 8 strands, respectively, with total draft ratios of 6.8, 7.2, and 7.8. PLA fibers are prone to static electricity when rubbed, so metal guides are used during the final draw to reduce the impact of static electricity on the quality of the drawn strands.

[0065] S1-5, roving: the relative humidity is controlled at 75%, and the twist coefficient of the prepared roving is 400.

[0066] S1-6, spun yarn: adopt ring spinning production process, spindle speed is 10000rpm, PG14054 steel collar is selected, twist is 750 twists / m, rear zone draft is 1.15 times, and a collector is installed, width is 3mm, jaw spacing is 2.5mm, and the hardness of the rubber roller used is Shore 78°; a false twister is installed on the front roller, and the false twist number is 1200 twists / m.

[0067] S1-7, steam setting: vacuum steam setting is used, the temperature is 110℃, and the time is 200min.

[0068] In step S2, the weft yarn is prepared as yak wool elastic core-spun yarn: the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn includes a core yarn and a covering fiber layer, the core yarn is a polylactic acid stretch yarn blended yarn, and the covering fiber layer is yak wool fiber.

[0069] Furthermore, the preparation of the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn comprises the following steps:

[0070] S2-1. Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and hair treatment and antistatic treatment of PLA and stretch yarn; the yak wool has a length of ≥35mm and a fineness of ≤18μm; the polylactic acid fiber is a 1.4dtex×38mm staple fiber with a moisture content of ≤0.05%; the stretch yarn is a 0.9dtex×38mm staple fiber with an elastic recovery rate of ≥85%.

[0071] The yak wool conditioning treatment involves spraying the yak wool with conditioning oil and curing it at 30°C and 65% relative humidity for 12 hours. The conditioning oil contains an antistatic agent. The stretch yarn antistatic treatment involves adding an antistatic agent and a silicone oil-based lubricant when the stretch yarn filaments are cut. The PLA antistatic treatment involves evenly spraying the PLA fibers with an antistatic treatment solution and drying them at 45°C. The PLA antistatic treatment is the same as in step S1-1.

[0072] S2-2. Cotton opening and cleaning: PLA fiber and stretch yarn are opened and loosened using a multi-bin cotton blending machine and a fine cotton opener. The beater speed is 200 rpm, the dust bar spacing is 10 mm, the cotton roll basis weight is 380 g / m, the temperature in the workshop is 25°C ± 2°C, and the relative humidity is 65% ± 5%.

[0073] S2-3. Carding: A carding machine is used to card the blended PLA and stretch yarn fibers. The cylinder speed is 330 rpm, the licker-in speed is 350 rpm, the sliver delivery speed is 80 m / min, and the sliver basis weight is 18 g / 5 m. To prevent PLA edge breakage caused by static electricity, an ionizing air bar is installed above the cotton mesh in the carding machine, 10 cm away from the mesh.

[0074] The spacing between the licker-in roller and the cotton feeding plate is 0.15mm, the spacing between the licker-in roller and the cylinder is 0.10mm, the spacing between the cylinder and the doffer is 0.08mm, the spacing between the cylinder and the cover plate at the entrance is 0.18mm, and the spacing between the cylinder and the cover plate at the exit is 0.12mm.

[0075] S2-4 drawing: It adopts three-pass drawing including first drawing, second drawing and last drawing. The drawing numbers are 6, 8 and 8 respectively. The total drafting multiples are 6.5, 7.5 and 7.8 respectively. The weight of the finished sliver is 3-3.5g / 5m.

[0076] S2-5, roving: spindle speed 800 rpm, twist coefficient 380, axial winding density 3.2 turns / cm.

[0077] S2-6, spun yarn: spindle speed 12000 rpm, twist 850 twist / m, Z twist, wire ring #6802, back zone draft 1.25 times, jaw gap 2.5 mm, to prepare PLA / smooth yarn blended yarn as the core yarn.

[0078] S2-7. Preparation of yak wool strips: The yak wool that has been combed is used to prepare yak wool strips with a basis weight of 12-15 g / m2 using a wool combing machine. A collector is installed in the drafting area, and the width is 6 mm.

[0079] S2-8. Preparation of yak wool elastic core-spun yarn: PLA / comfortable stretch yarn blended yarn and yak wool strips are used to prepare yak wool elastic core-spun yarn using a hollow spindle fancy twisting machine. The feeding speed of the core yarn is 15m / min, the feeding amount of the yak wool strips is 0.8g / m, the hollow spindle rotation speed is 8000rpm, and the yak wool strips are coated on the outside of the PLA / comfortable stretch yarn along the S direction; the overfeed ratio of the core yarn and the coating fiber is 1:1.25, the winding tension is 12-15cN, and the winding density is 0.3g / cm3.

[0080] S2-9, Steam setting: Use saturated steam for steam setting, the temperature is 110℃, and the time is 25 minutes.

[0081] In step S3, batch warping is adopted with tension gradient control, 15 cN for the front row and 25 cN for the back row;

[0082] In step S4, the yarn is sized and dried using a compound sizing agent with a sizing rate of 5% and a moisture regain of 3.5%. The compound sizing agent comprises 3 wt% hexanoate starch, 2 wt% polyvinyl alcohol 1799, 0.2 wt% softener, 0.2 wt% antistatic agent, 0.2 wt% 2-naphthol, 0.5 wt% wax flakes, and the balance water. Because the warp yarn contains PVA fibers, the PVA fibers become water-soluble when the warp yarn is impregnated with the sizing agent and dried, causing the warp yarn to adhere to the sizing agent, thus resolving the problem of the sizing agent having difficulty penetrating the yarn.

[0083] In step S5 of drawing in the harness and reeding and weaving, a satin weave is used for weaving. The satin weave can improve the softness of the fabric, and specifically an 8-weave satin weave is used.

[0084] In step S6, desizing is performed using cellulase at a pH of 7.0 and at 50° C. for 40 minutes.

[0085] In step S7, scouring is performed using 2 g / L of a nonionic surfactant at 80° C. for 20 min.

[0086] In the pre-forming step S8, the temperature is 100°C and the time is 45 seconds.

[0087] In step S9, the pre-shaped fabric is impregnated with a softening agent at a temperature of 40°C for 20 minutes, a roll-off rate of 70%, and a drying temperature of 115°C for 2 minutes. The softening agent is amino silicone oil.

[0088] In step S10 of raising and shearing, the weft side is raised by a raising machine, the counter-clockwise speed difference is 10-15%; the shearing height is 1.2-1.5 mm; and the pile height is 1.2 mm.

[0089] In step S11, the setting temperature is 110-115°C.

[0090] Furthermore, the tooth density of the metal card cloth used in the cylinder of the carding machine used in step S2-2 is 460-500 points / inch. 2 The card wire comprises a base and teeth, with a tooth tip hardness of ≥780 HV. The tooth tip comprises a first arcuate segment, a straight segment, and a second arcuate segment. The radius of the first arcuate segment is 0.05 mm, and the radius of the second arcuate segment is 0.1 mm. This reduces fiber damage, with the front tooth surface angle being 60° and the rear tooth surface angle being 35°. The doffer card wire utilizes hawk-beak-shaped tooth tips with a negative rake angle of -8°.

[0091] Example 2

[0092] This embodiment is described in detail. The present invention relates to a yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric production process, comprising the following steps: S1 warp yarn preparation, S2 weft yarn preparation, S3 warping, S4 sizing, S5 drawing in and reeding, and weaving, S6 desizing, S7 scouring, S8 pre-setting, S9 soft finishing, S10 napping and shearing, and S11 shaping.

[0093] In the preparation of the warp yarn in step S1, the warp yarn is a yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn.

[0094] Furthermore, the preparation of the yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn includes the following steps:

[0095] S1-1 Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and hair treatment and PLA antistatic treatment; the yak wool has a length ≥ 35 mm and a fineness ≤ 18 μm; the polylactic acid fiber is a short fiber of 1.4 dtex × 38 mm with a moisture content ≤ 0.05%; the PVA fiber has an average molecular weight of 60,000 to 150,000, a thermal decomposition temperature of 200 to 220°C, a melting point of 225 to 230°C, a fineness of 1.56D, and a length of 38 mm.

[0096] The yak wool conditioning treatment involves spraying the yak wool with a conditioning oil and curing it at 25°C and 70% relative humidity for 24 hours. The conditioning oil contains an antistatic agent. The amount of conditioning oil used is 2% of the weight of the yak wool. The PLA antistatic treatment involves evenly spraying the PLA fibers with an antistatic treatment agent and drying them at 50°C with a moisture content controlled between 0.1-0.3%. The amount of antistatic treatment solution used is 3% of the weight of the PLA fibers.

[0097] Furthermore, the crude oil includes quaternary ammonium salt of terminal amino hyperbranched compound, cross-linked hyperbranched waterborne polyurethane acrylate, Taiko oil, sodium fatty alcohol polyvinyl ether sulfate, soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester, octadecyl phosphate and deionized water.

[0098] Furthermore, the crude oil includes 5 parts by mass of a quaternary ammonium salt of a terminal amino hyperbranched compound, 10 parts by mass of a cross-linked hyperbranched waterborne polyurethane acrylate, 8 parts by mass of Taiko oil, 3 parts by mass of sodium fatty alcohol polyvinyl ether sulfate, 10 parts by mass of soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester, 5 parts by mass of octadecyl phosphate, 8 parts by mass of a hydroxyl-modified amino silicone oil and 100 parts by mass of deionized water.

[0099] The antistatic treatment solution used in the antistatic treatment of PLA includes 8 wt % of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1 wt % of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate and the balance of water.

[0100] S1-2, mixed opening: yak wool, PLA fiber and PVA fiber are mixed by flat laying and straight taking method, and then pre-opened and fine opened. A corner nail drum cotton opener is used for pre-opening, and a combing needle beater cotton opener is used for fine opening.

[0101] S1-3. Carding: Carding is performed using an LFN288 cashmere combined carding machine. The cylinder speed is 350 rpm, the linear speed ratio of the doffer to the cylinder is 1:20, and the linear speed ratio of the licker-in to the cylinder is 1:2.5. The gauge distance between the doffer and the cylinder is 0.1-0.12 mm, and the gauge distance between the licker-in and the cylinder is 0.15 mm. The basis weight of the carded sliver is 18.2 g / 5 m. Because PLA fibers are prone to static electricity accumulation, which can cause the web to break, an ion air bar is installed above the web in the carding machine, 10 cm away from the web.

[0102] S1-4, Drawing: A three-stage drawing process is used, including the first, second, and final draws. The draws are 6, 8, and 8 strands, respectively, with total draft ratios of 6.8, 7.2, and 7.8. PLA fibers are prone to static electricity when rubbed, so metal guides are used during the final draw to reduce the impact of static electricity on the quality of the drawn strands.

[0103] S1-5, roving: the relative humidity is controlled at 65%, and the twist coefficient of the prepared roving is 380.

[0104] S1-6, spun yarn: adopt ring spinning production process, spindle speed is 12000rpm, PG14054 steel collar is selected, twist is 800 twists / m, rear zone draft is 1.20 times, and a collector is installed, width is 5mm, jaw spacing is 3mm, and the hardness of the rubber roller used is Shore 78°; a false twister is installed on the front roller, and the false twist number is 1200 twists / m.

[0105] S1-7, steam setting: vacuum steam setting is adopted, the temperature is 105℃, and the time is 30min.

[0106] In step S2, the weft yarn is prepared as yak wool elastic core-spun yarn: the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn includes a core yarn and a covering fiber layer, the core yarn is a polylactic acid stretch yarn blended yarn, and the covering fiber layer is yak wool fiber.

[0107] Furthermore, the preparation of the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn comprises the following steps:

[0108] S2-1. Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and hair treatment and antistatic treatment of PLA and stretch yarn; the yak wool has a length of ≥35mm and a fineness of ≤18μm; the polylactic acid fiber is a 1.4dtex×38mm staple fiber with a moisture content of ≤0.05%; the stretch yarn is a 0.9dtex×38mm staple fiber with an elastic recovery rate of ≥85%.

[0109] The yak wool conditioning treatment involves spraying the yak wool with conditioning oil and curing it at 25°C and 70% relative humidity for 24 hours. The conditioning oil contains an antistatic agent. The stretch yarn antistatic treatment involves adding an antistatic agent and a silicone oil-based lubricant when the stretch yarn filaments are cut. The PLA antistatic treatment involves evenly spraying the PLA fibers with an antistatic treatment solution and drying them at 50°C. The PLA antistatic treatment is the same as in step S1-1.

[0110] S2-2. Cotton opening and cleaning: PLA fiber and stretch yarn are opened and loosened using a multi-bin cotton blending machine and a fine cotton opener. The beater speed is 150 rpm, the dust bar spacing is 8 mm, the cotton roll basis weight is 400 g / m, the temperature in the workshop is 25°C ± 2°C, and the relative humidity is 65% ± 5%.

[0111] S2-3. Carding: A carding machine is used to card the blended PLA and stretch yarn fibers. The cylinder speed is 360 rpm, the licker-in speed is 700 rpm, the sliver delivery speed is 100 m / min, and the sliver weight is 20 g / 5 m. To prevent PLA edge breakage caused by static electricity, an ionizing air bar is installed above the cotton mesh in the carding machine, 10 cm away from the mesh.

[0112] The spacing between the licker-in roller and the cotton feeding plate is 0.20mm, the spacing between the licker-in roller and the cylinder is 0.15mm, the spacing between the cylinder and the doffer is 0.12mm, the spacing between the cylinder and the cover plate at the entrance is 0.25mm, and the spacing between the cylinder and the cover plate at the exit is 0.18mm.

[0113] S2-4 drawing: It adopts three-pass drawing including first drawing, second drawing and last drawing. The drawing numbers are 6, 8 and 8 respectively. The total drafting multiples are 6.5, 7.5 and 7.8 respectively. The weight of the finished sliver is 3-3.5g / 5m.

[0114] S2-5, roving: spindle speed 800 rpm, twist coefficient 380, axial winding density 3.2 turns / cm.

[0115] S2-6, spun yarn: spindle speed 12000 rpm, twist 850 twist / m, Z twist, wire ring #6802, back zone draft 1.25 times, jaw gap 2.5 mm, to prepare PLA / smooth yarn blended yarn as the core yarn.

[0116] S2-7. Preparation of yak wool strips: The yak wool that has been combed is used to prepare yak wool strips with a basis weight of 12-15 g / m2 using a wool combing machine. A collector is installed in the drafting area, and the width is 6 mm.

[0117] S2-8. Preparation of yak wool elastic core-spun yarn: PLA / comfortable stretch yarn blended yarn and yak wool strips are used to prepare yak wool elastic core-spun yarn using a hollow spindle fancy twisting machine. The feeding speed of the core yarn is 15 m / min, the feeding amount of the yak wool strips is 1.2 g / m, the hollow spindle rotation speed is 10,000 rpm, and the yak wool strips are coated on the outside of the PLA / comfortable stretch yarn along the S direction; the overfeed ratio of the core yarn to the coating fiber is 1:1.25, the winding tension is 15 cN, and the winding density is 0.35 g / cm3.

[0118] S2-9, Steam setting: Use saturated steam for steam setting, the temperature is 105℃, and the time is 35 minutes.

[0119] In step S3, batch warping is adopted with tension gradient control, 20 cN for the front row and 30 cN for the back row;

[0120] In step S4, the yarn is sized and dried using a compound sizing agent with a sizing rate of 6% and a moisture regain of 2.5%. The compound sizing agent comprises 5 wt% hexanoate starch, 1 wt% polyvinyl alcohol 1799, 0.5 wt% softener, 0.1 wt% antistatic agent, 0.3 wt% 2-naphthol, 0.3 wt% wax flakes, and the balance water. Because the warp yarn contains PVA fibers, the PVA fibers become water-soluble when the warp yarn is impregnated with the sizing agent and dried, causing the warp yarn to adhere to the fibers as well, thus resolving the problem of the sizing agent's difficulty penetrating the yarn interior. Compared to a yarn without PVA fibers and directly sizing at 8%, the yarn breakage rate is reduced by approximately 35%.

[0121] In step S5 of drawing in the harness and reeding and weaving, a satin weave is used for weaving. The satin weave can improve the softness of the fabric, and specifically an 8-weave satin weave is used.

[0122] In step S6, cellulase is used for desizing, with a pH value of 6.5 and a treatment temperature of 55° C. for 30 minutes.

[0123] In step S7, scouring is performed using 3 g / L of a nonionic surfactant at 75° C. for 30 min.

[0124] In the pre-forming step S8, the temperature is 95°C and the time is 60 seconds.

[0125] In step S9, the pre-shaped fabric is impregnated with a softening agent at a temperature of 45°C for 15 minutes, a roll-off rate of 75%, and a drying temperature of 110°C for 2.5 minutes. The softening agent is amino silicone oil.

[0126] In step S10 of raising and shearing, the weft side is raised by a raising machine, the counter-clockwise speed difference is 10-15%; the shearing height is 1.2-1.5 mm; and the pile height is 1.2 mm.

[0127] In step S11, the setting temperature is 110-115°C.

[0128] Furthermore, the tooth density of the metal card cloth used in the cylinder of the carding machine used in step S2-2 is 460-500 points / inch. 2 The card clothing includes a base and needle teeth, the tooth tip hardness is ≥780HV, the tooth tip includes a first arc segment, a straight segment and a second arc segment, the radius of the first arc segment is 0.05mm, the radius of the second arc segment is 0.1mm, and the angle of the front tooth surface is 55°, and the angle of the rear tooth surface is 30°; the doffer card clothing uses an eagle-beak-shaped tooth tip and has a negative front angle of -5°.

[0129] The woven fabrics prepared in Examples 1 and 2 weighed 285 grams per square meter and were tested for thermal conductivity. The results were 0.058 and 0.062 W / (m·k), respectively. These results compare favorably to 0.087 W / (m·k) for pure wool weighing 285 grams, demonstrating superior thermal insulation.

[0130] The above describes in detail the preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be understood that those skilled in the art can make numerous modifications and variations based on the concepts of the present invention without inventive effort. Therefore, any technical solutions that can be derived by those skilled in the art through logical analysis, reasoning, or limited experimentation based on the concepts of the present invention and the prior art should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A production process for yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric, characterized in that: The steps include: S1. Preparation of warp yarn: the warp yarn is a yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn; S2. Preparation of weft yarn: The weft yarn is a yak wool elastic core-spun yarn, which comprises a core yarn and a covering fiber layer, wherein the core yarn is a polylactic acid stretch yarn blended yarn, and the covering fiber layer is yak wool fiber; S3, warping: adopt batch warping method, tension gradient control, front row 15-20cN, back row 25-30cN; S4. Sizing: Use compound sizing agent to size the yarn and dry it. The sizing rate is 5-6%, and the moisture regain is controlled at 2.5-3.5%; The compound slurry comprises 3-5 wt% of hexanoate starch, 1-2 wt% of polyvinyl alcohol 1799, 0.2-0.5 wt% of a softener, 0.1-0.2 wt% of an antistatic agent, 0.2-0.3 wt% of 2-naphthol, 0.3-0.5 wt% of wax flakes, and the balance of water; S5, drawing in and reeding and weaving: using satin weave for weaving; S6. Desizing: Desizing is performed using cellulase at a pH of 6.5-7.0 and at 50-55°C for 30-40 minutes. S7, Scouring: Use 2-3g / L nonionic surfactant at 75-80℃ for 20-30min; S8, pre-forming: temperature is 95-100℃, time is 45-60s; S9, Softening Finishing: Impregnate the pre-shaped fabric with a softening finishing agent at a temperature of 40-45°C for 15-20 minutes, with a rolling rate of 70-75%, and a drying temperature of 110-115°C for 2-2.5 minutes; S10, raising and shearing: the weft side is raised with a raising machine, the counter-clockwise speed difference is 10-15%; the shearing height is 1.2-1.5mm; S11. Setting: The setting temperature is 110-115℃.

2. The production process of yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The length of the yak wool is ≥35mm and the fineness is ≤18μm. The polylactic acid fiber is a short fiber of 1.4dtex×38mm with a moisture content of ≤0.05%; the stretch yarn is a short fiber of 0.9dtex×38mm with an elastic recovery rate of ≥85%; the raw material average molecular weight of the PVA fiber is 60,000-150,000, the thermal decomposition temperature is 200-220°C, the melting point is 225-230°C, the fineness is 1.56D, and the length is 38mm.

3. The production process of yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: The preparation of the yak wool / polylactic acid / PVA fiber blended yarn comprises the following steps: S1-1 Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and hair treatment and PLA antistatic treatment; The yak wool treatment comprises spraying the yak wool with wool oil and curing the yak wool at 25-30° C. and 65-70% relative humidity for 12-24 hours, wherein the wool oil contains an antistatic agent; The antistatic treatment of PLA refers to spraying the PLA fibers evenly with antistatic treatment liquid and drying them at 45-50°C. S1-2, mixing and opening: yak wool, PLA fiber and PVA fiber are mixed by flat laying and straight taking method, and then pre-opening and fine opening are performed, using a corner nail drum cotton opener for pre-opening and a combing needle beater cotton opener for fine opening; S1-3. Carding: Carding is performed using an LFN288 cashmere combined carding machine. The cylinder speed is 300-350 rpm, the linear speed ratio of the doffer to the cylinder is 1:20-25, and the linear speed ratio of the licker-in to the cylinder is 1:2.0-2.

5. The gauge distance between the doffer and the cylinder is 0.1-0.12 mm, and the gauge distance between the licker-in and the cylinder is 0.15 mm. The basis weight of the carded sliver is 16-20 g / 5 m. S1-4, drawing: adopts three-pass drawing process, including first drawing, second drawing and final drawing, with the drawing numbers of 6, 8 and 8 respectively, and the total draft ratios of 6.8, 7.2 and 7.8 respectively; S1-5, roving: relative humidity is controlled at 65-75%, and the twist coefficient of the prepared roving is 380-400; S1-6, spun yarn: Ring spinning is used, with a spindle speed of 10,000-12,000 rpm, a PG14054 steel ring, a twist of 750-800 twists / m, a back draft of 1.15-1.20 times, and a collector installed. The width is 3-5 mm, the jaw gap is 2.5-3 mm, and the hardness of the rubber roller is 78 Shore A. A false twister is installed on the front roller, with a false twist of 1200 twists / m. S1-7, steam setting: vacuum steam setting is adopted, the temperature is 105-110℃, and the time is 20-30min.

4. The production process of yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: The preparation of the yak wool elastic core-spun yarn comprises the following steps: S2-1. Raw material pretreatment: including yak wool and wool treatment and antistatic treatment of PLA and stretch yarn; The yak wool treatment refers to spraying the yak wool with a wool treatment oil and curing it at 25-30°C and 65-70% relative humidity for 12-24 hours, wherein the wool treatment oil contains an antistatic agent. The antistatic treatment of the stretch yarn refers to adding an antistatic agent and a silicone oil-based lubricant when the stretch yarn filaments are cut. The antistatic treatment of PLA refers to evenly spraying the PLA fibers with an antistatic treatment liquid and drying them at 45-50°C. S2-2, cotton opening and cleaning: PLA fiber and stretch yarn are opened and loosened using a multi-bin cotton blending machine and a fine cotton opener. The beater speed is 150-200 rpm, the dust bar spacing is 8-10 mm, the cotton lap basis weight is 380-400 g / m, the temperature in the workshop is 25℃±2℃, and the relative humidity is 65%±5%; S2-3, carding: carding the mixed PLA fiber and stretch yarn fiber with a carding machine, the cylinder speed is 330-360rpm, the licker-in speed is 350-700rpm, the sliver output speed is 80-100m / min, and the carded sliver weight is 18-20g / 5m; The gauge between the licker-in and the feed plate is 0.15-0.20 mm, the gauge between the licker-in and the cylinder is 0.10-0.15 mm, the gauge between the cylinder and the doffer is 0.08-0.12 mm, the gauge between the cylinder and the cover at the entrance is 0.18-0.25 mm, and the gauge between the cylinder and the cover at the exit is 0.12-0.18 mm; S2-4 drawing: adopts three-pass drawing including first drawing, second drawing and last drawing, with the drawing numbers of 6, 8 and 8 respectively, the total drafting ratio is 6.5, 7.5 and 7.8 respectively, and the sliver weight is 3-3.5g / 5m; S2-5, roving: spindle speed 800 rpm, twist coefficient 380, axial winding density 3.2 turns / cm; S2-6, spun yarn: spindle speed 12000 rpm, twist 850 twist / m, Z twist, traveler #6802, back draft 1.25 times, nip gauge 2.5 mm, to prepare PLA / smooth stretch yarn blended yarn as the core yarn; S2-7, preparation of yak wool strips: The yak wool that has been combed is used to prepare yak wool strips using a wool-type combing machine, with a basis weight of 12-15 g / m, and a collector is installed in the drafting area, with a width of 6 mm; S2-8. Preparation of yak wool elastic core-spun yarn: PLA / comfortable stretch yarn blended yarn and yak wool strips were used to prepare yak wool elastic core-spun yarn using a hollow spindle fancy twisting machine. The core yarn was fed at a speed of 15 m / min, the yak wool strip feed rate was 0.8-1.2 g / m, the hollow spindle speed was 8000-10000 rpm, and the yak wool strips were coated on the outside of the PLA / comfortable stretch yarn in the S direction. The overfeed ratio of the core yarn to the coating fiber was 1:1.25, the winding tension was 12-15 cN, and the winding density was 0.3-0.35 g / cm3. S2-9, Steam setting: Use saturated steam for steam setting, the temperature is 105-110℃, and the time is 25-35min.

5. The production process of yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: The density of the metal card cloth used in the cylinder of the carding machine used in step S2-3 is 460-500 points / inch. 2 The card cloth includes a base and needle teeth, the tooth tip hardness is ≥780HV, the tooth tip includes a first arc segment, a straight segment and a second arc segment, the radius of the first arc segment is 0.05mm, the radius of the second arc segment is 0.1mm, and the angle of the front tooth surface is 55-60°, and the angle of the rear tooth surface is 30-35°; The doffer card wire has an eagle-beak-shaped tooth tip and a negative rake angle of -5° to -8°.

6. The production process of yak wool / polylactic acid fiber / comfortable stretch yarn woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The crude oil comprises quaternary ammonium salt of terminal amino hyperbranched compound, cross-linked hyperbranched waterborne polyurethane acrylate, Taiko oil, sodium fatty alcohol polyvinyl ether sulfate, soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester, octadecyl phosphate, hydroxyl modified amino silicone oil and deionized water.

Images