Composition for improving discoloration of whitening active matters of cosmetics and application of composition

Abstract

The invention discloses a composition for improving discoloration of whitening active matters of cosmetics and application of the composition, the composition is composed of sodium surfactin and sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, and the mass ratio of the sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate to the sodium surfactin is 1: 1-4: 1. According to the whitening cosmetic, the sodium surfactin and the sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate are combined and synergistically used, so that the color change condition of active ingredients in the whitening cosmetic can be improved.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition for improving discoloration of whitening active substances in cosmetics and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] With the increasing demand of consumers for high-efficiency, safe and stable skin care products, m-dihydroxybenzene and L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G, Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside) have been widely used in high-end skin care products as whitening ingredients in recent years due to their excellent antioxidant, anti-melanin generation and skin lightening effects. The structure of m-dihydroxybenzene derivatives is similar to that of tyrosinase substrates, such as phenylethyl m-dihydroxybenzene, commonly known as 377; 4-butyl m-dihydroxybenzene, commonly known as 577; and hexyl m-dihydroxybenzene, commonly known as HR. They can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity and have high whitening effect. However, m-dihydroxybenzene is a phenolic compound containing phenolic hydroxyl groups in its molecule, which is highly sensitive to oxidation. Although the above two active substances have good whitening effect, they still face certain stability challenges in actual application, especially under the influence of light, heat, pH change and interaction with other ingredients, the active ingredients are prone to discoloration, thereby affecting the product efficacy and user experience.

[0003] The existing methods for improving the discoloration of whitening raw materials in cosmetics mainly include the following: (1) wrapping phenylethyl m-dihydroxybenzene with nano-lipid carrier (NLC) technology to solve the problem of poor stability; (2) adding antioxidants such as vitamin E, tocopherol, rosemary acid, frankincense resin extract, etc. to inhibit free radical reactions, slow down the oxidation process of whitening raw materials and reduce discoloration; (3) adding metal chelating agents such as disodium EDTA and sodium citrate to complex metal ions, inhibit catalytic reactions and improve the stability of raw materials.

[0004] The above methods have high preparation difficulty, complex process and high cost. For example, the preparation of lipid nanocarriers requires precise control of process parameters such as temperature, pressure, stirring speed, etc. If the parameters are not properly controlled during the preparation process, it can lead to uneven particle size distribution of the carrier, low encapsulation efficiency and other problems. At the same time, special equipment and raw materials such as high-pressure homogenizer, phospholipid and cholesterol are required. The cost of these equipment and raw materials is relatively high, which increases the production cost of lipid nanocarriers, making the product price relatively high when using lipid nanocarriers to wrap whitening active substances. The large number of ingredients has a certain impact on the skin feel of the formula system. The addition of additional antioxidants / light protectants can increase the cost of the formula. SUMMARY

[0005] To overcome the problems in the prior art, the present application provides a composition for improving discoloration of cosmetic whitening active substances and use thereof, which can improve the discoloration problem of whitening active ingredients.

[0006] To solve the above technical problems, the technical scheme provided by the present application is: The present application provides a composition for improving discoloration of cosmetic whitening active substances, which consists of sodium mycosubtilin and polyacryloyldimethyl taurine sodium.

[0007] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the mass ratio of polyacryloyldimethyl taurine sodium and sodium mycosubtilin is 1:1 to 4:1.

[0008] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the mass ratio of polyacryloyldimethyl taurine sodium and sodium mycosubtilin is 4:1.

[0009] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the addition amount of the composition in the whitening cosmetic is 0.1 to 0.8%.

[0010] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the addition amount of the composition in the whitening cosmetic is 0.3%.

[0011] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the dosage form of the whitening cosmetic is selected from one of water, emulsion, cream, essence, jelly, mask, spray, ointment or foundation.

[0012] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the whitening cosmetic is selected from one of whitening essence or whitening emulsion.

[0013] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the pH of the use environment of the composition is 6.0-6.5.

[0014] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the whitening ingredient in the whitening cosmetic is one or more of phenylethyl resorcinol, hexyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol or ascorbyl glucoside.

[0015] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present application, the mass fraction of phenylethyl resorcinol in the whitening ingredient is ≤0.5%, the mass fraction of hexyl resorcinol is ≤1%, the mass fraction of 4-butyl resorcinol is ≤0.5%, and the mass fraction of ascorbyl glucoside is ≤0.5%.

[0016] Based on the same technical concept, the application also provides application of the above-mentioned composition for improving discoloration of cosmetic whitening active substances in inhibiting oxidation of whitening active substances in cosmetics.

[0017] Working principle of the application: (1) Interfacial reinforcement effect: the polyacryloyl dimethyl sodium taurinate and the sodium iturin form a three-dimensional space network structure, which forms a good physical protection barrier for the active substances, reduces the contact of the active substances with oxygen, ultraviolet rays and other external factors after being wrapped, and thus delays oxidation.

[0018] (2) Chemical passivation (metal ion chelation): the sulfonic acid group (-SO3 - ) and the amide group (-CONH-) in the polyacryloyl dimethyl sodium taurinate have strong negative charges, which can chelate metal ions (such as copper ions and trivalent iron ions) in the solution. The metal ions are catalysts for oxidation of active substances such as ascorbic acid, and the oxidation rate is significantly reduced after chelation.

[0019] (3) Microenvironment regulation (pH buffer system): the taurine group of the polyacryloyl dimethyl sodium taurinate has weak alkalinity, which can neutralize H + in the system, maintain a near-neutral environment (pH 6~7) of the solution, and inhibit acid-catalyzed oxidative degradation.

[0020] Compared with the prior art, the application has the following beneficial effects: The composition for improving discoloration of cosmetic whitening active substances in the application is composed of sodium iturin and polyacryloyl dimethyl sodium taurinate, and the two are used in combination, which can improve the discoloration of active ingredients in whitening cosmetics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0021] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the application or the prior art, the following will briefly introduce the drawings needed to be used in the embodiments or the prior art description. Obviously, the drawings in the following description are some embodiments of the application, and other drawings can also be obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor.

[0022] Figure 1 The results of the light stability of the composition in the whitening serum; Figure 2 The results of the light stability of the composition in the whitening emulsion. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] In order to facilitate the understanding of the application, the following will combine the drawings in the specification and the preferred embodiments to make a more comprehensive and detailed description of the application, but the protection scope of the application is not limited to the following specific embodiments.

[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all terms used in the description herein, including technical and scientific terms, have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. The terms used herein are for the purpose of describing specific embodiments only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present disclosure.

[0025] Unless otherwise specified, various materials, reagents, instruments and equipment used in the present disclosure can be purchased on the market or can be prepared by existing methods.

[0026] Raw materials: Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate was purchased from Guangzhou Aoxue Chemical Co., Ltd.; Subtilin sodium was purchased from Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd.; p-Hydroxyacetophenone was purchased from Guangzhou Aoxue Chemical Co., Ltd. / Shanghai Zhongshi Technology Development Co., Ltd.; Phenylethyl resorcinol was purchased from Guangzhou Aoxue Chemical Co., Ltd.; Ascorbyl glucoside was purchased from Kosher International Trade (Guangzhou) Co., Ltd.; Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 was purchased from Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd.; Sodium metabisulfite was purchased from Shanghai Ao'nenkei Industry Co., Ltd.; Digalloyl gallate was purchased from Guangzhou Aoxue Chemical Co., Ltd.; 1,2-Hexanediol was purchased from Guangzhou Aoxue Chemical Co., Ltd. / Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd.; Arginine was purchased from Shanghai Zhongshi Technology Development Co., Ltd. / Guangzhou Huiying Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; Butanediol was purchased from Guangzhou Hengtao Trade Co., Ltd. / Guangzhou Huiying Chemical Technology Co., Ltd. / Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd. / Shanghai Xuerui Industry Development Co., Ltd.; Glycerin was purchased from Guangzhou Hengtao Trade Co., Ltd. / Shanghai Dike Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. / Guangzhou Huiying Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; Olivem® 1000 was purchased from Shanghai Ronghai Biological Technology Co., Ltd.; Polyglyceryl-6 diisostearate was purchased from Shanghai Puren Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd.; SIMULGEL EG was purchased from Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd.; Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer was purchased from Guangzhou Zhaoheng Trade Development Co., Ltd.; Isononyl isononanoate was purchased from Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd. / Shanghai Saifu Chemical Development Co., Ltd.; Dimethicone was purchased from Guangzhou Juyang Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.; Cetyl alcohol was purchased from Shanghai Xuerui Industry Development Co., Ltd. / Shanghai Youwuhua Chemical Co., Ltd. / Shanghai Wanning Biological Technology Co., Ltd.; EDTA-2NA was purchased from Guangzhou Baihaobo Co., Ltd.

[0027] Experimental instruments: Electronic balance ML4002T Mettler-Toledo Instrument (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; analytical balance ML204T Mettler-Toledo Instrument (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; electric heating constant temperature water bath (four holes) HHS Shanghai Boxin Business Co., Ltd. Medical Equipment Factory; constant temperature water bath, 55℃±1℃; constant temperature incubator, 36℃±1℃; electronic stirrer RW20 IKA; benchtop pH meter S220-Bio Mettler.

[0028] Example 1 Application of the composition in whitening serum The preparation method of the whitening serum is as follows: (1) Pre-dissolve the B phase component raw materials: dissolve the resorcinol whitening active material with part of butanediol for standby.

[0029] (2) Pre-dissolve the C phase component raw materials: dissolve ascorbic acid glucoside with part of water, and adjust the pH of the C phase with arginine.

[0030] (3) After dissolution, cool and stir, and once add the B phase, C phase and D phase raw materials when the temperature is about 45℃.

[0031] (4) Continue to stir, and after uniform dissolution, test the pH of the serum, if the pH of the serum formula is not between 6.0-6.3, add appropriate E phase raw materials to adjust the formula pH, and ensure that the formula pH is between 6.0-6.5.

[0032] The formula of each group of whitening serum is shown in Table 1 below.

[0033] Table 1: Whitening serum formula

[0034] (II) Performance test Light stability of whitening serum An equal amount of the above configured whitening serum sample was placed in a transparent bottle and subjected to light for 24h under simulated sunlight (light source CEL-S500, light intensity 100mW / cm 2 ). The initial formula pH values of 1-1, 1-2...1-8 were 6.26, 6.22, 6.15, 6.20, 6.09, 6.11, 6.05 and 6.28 respectively. The results are shown in Figure 1 . From left to right, they are numbered 1-1, 1-2...1-8. From the light stability of the above serum, the color stability can be seen: formula 1-4> formula 1-3> formula 1-2> formula 1-1> formula 1-6> formula 1-7> formula 1-5> formula 1-8.

[0035] The composition has improved discoloration of phenylethyl resorcinol, hexyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, ascorbyl glucoside in the formulation. The synergistic stabilizing composition and the single polyacryloyldimethyltaurate are both better than the antioxidant (sodium pyrosulfite or diglucosyl gallate), but the color change of the formulation with only single polyacryloyldimethyltaurate is still relatively deep.

[0036] As can be seen from Formulations 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, the better the effect of inhibiting the discoloration of the whitening composition, the more the synergistic stabilizing composition is added, and the best effect is obtained when the composition is added in an amount of 0.8% (Formulation 1-4). That is, the composition has a synergistic effect on the improvement of the discoloration of phenylethyl resorcinol-ascorbyl glucoside in the aqueous system.

[0037] When the amount of polyacryloyldimethyltaurate added is relatively high, it will bring a relatively heavy skin feel to the formulation; and as the content of sodium iturin increases, the cost of the formulation will also increase to a certain extent, so in the subsequent emulsion formulation system, the total amount of the composition added will be selected as 0.3% for further investigation.

[0038] Example 2 Application of the composition in the whitening emulsion (1) Preparation method of the whitening emulsion is as follows: (1) Pre-dissolve the E phase component raw materials: dissolve phenylethyl resorcinol with part of butanediol for standby use.

[0039] (2) Pre-dissolve the F phase component raw materials: dissolve ascorbyl glucoside with part of water, and adjust the pH of F phase with arginine.

[0040] (3) Weigh the A phase and B phase raw materials in the main beaker in turn and heat (need in 80℃ water bath) and stir until dissolved uniformly.

[0041] (4) Weigh the C phase raw materials and the oil phase beaker in turn and heat (need in 80℃ water bath) and dissolve; pour the dissolved C phase raw materials into the main beaker, and emulsify; after pre-emulsification, homogenize the material in the main beaker at a speed of 8000 rpm / min for 4 min.

[0042] (5) Continue to stir, add the dissolved E and F phase raw materials when the temperature is about 50℃, add the G phase raw materials when the temperature is about 40℃, continue to stir and dissolve uniformly, and then cool at room temperature for use.

[0043] The formulations of the whitening emulsions of each group are shown in Table 2 below.

[0044] Table 2: Formulation of whitening emulsion

[0045] (II) Performance testing 1. Stability testing of whitening emulsion The above 2-1 to 2-6 were placed at room temperature, -15°C, 5°C, 40°C, 48°C for stability investigation, and the color and appearance changes of the samples were observed on the 48th day. The initial formula pH values of formulations 2-1, 2-2...2-6 were 6.28, 6.11, 6.15, 6.30, 6.09, and 6.00, respectively. The stability test results are shown in Table 2, from left to right are the test results at room temperature, -15°C, 5°C, 40°C, 48°C, respectively. From Figure 2 It can be seen that the color stability of 2-1 formula, 2-2 formula, 2-3 formula, and 2-4 formula at high temperature for 30 days is obviously better than that of 2-5 and 2-6. It is shown that: in the emulsion system, the composition has improved discoloration of active substances containing not more than 0.5% phenylethyl resorcinol, 1% hexyl resorcinol, 0.5% 4-butyl resorcinol, and 0.5% ascorbic acid glucoside. The combination of polyacryloyldimethyl sodium taurate and sodium iturin is better than the combination of polyacryloyldimethyl sodium taurate and sodium metabisulfite, and also better than the combination of sodium iturin and diglucosyl gallate, i.e. the composition has a synergistic effect.

[0046] When the total content of the composition is 0.3%, the effect of polyacryloyldimethyl sodium taurate: sodium iturin = 4:1 is the most obvious.

[0047] 2. Application sensory evaluation of the composition (consumer sensory test) In order to evaluate the skin feel of the composition involved in the present application, 2-4 and 2-5 of the composition in the present application were used as test samples, 20 healthy subjects were recruited for sensory evaluation, and the texture, use feeling, and mildness of the product were used as test dimensions for evaluation test. The score range is 1-9 points, the higher the score, the higher the recognition, and the evaluation standard is shown in Table 3, and the results are shown in Table 4 Table 3.

[0048] Table 3: Application sensory evaluation standard

[0049] Table 4: Application sensory evaluation results

[0050] As can be seen from Table 4, the scores of texture, use feeling and mildness of Formulations 2-4 are all higher than that of 2-5. That is, the composition of the present application can bring more refreshing and mild use feeling to the formulation while synergistically improving the discoloration problem of the whitening active. This is because the surfactin sodium in the composition has strong emulsifying ability, and can effectively reduce the amount of the main emulsifier in the formulation with less addition, while reducing the irritation caused by the emulsifier in the formulation and bringing a more refreshing skin feel to the formulation.

[0051] The above is a further detailed description of the present application in combination with specific preferred embodiments, and the specific implementation of the present application should not be limited to these descriptions. For those of ordinary skill in the art to which the present application belongs, without departing from the concept of the present application, a number of simple deductions or substitutions can be made, which should be considered as falling within the scope of protection of the present application.

Claims

1. A composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active, characterized in that, The composition consists of sodium myristoyl glutamate and sodium subtilisin lipopeptide.

2. The composition for ameliorating discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, characterized by, The mass ratio of the sodium myristoyl glutamate and the sodium subtilisin lipopeptide is 1:1-4:

1.

3. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, wherein The mass ratio of the sodium myristoyl glutamate and the sodium subtilisin lipopeptide is 3:

1.

4. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, characterized by, The added amount of the composition in the whitening cosmetic is 0.1-0.8%.

5. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, wherein The added amount of the composition in the whitening cosmetic is 0.3%.

6. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, wherein The dosage form of the whitening cosmetic is selected from one of water, emulsion, cream, essence, jelly, mask, spray, ointment or foundation.

7. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, wherein The whitening cosmetic is selected from one of whitening essence or whitening emulsion.

8. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, wherein The pH of the use environment of the composition is 6.0-6.

50.

9. The composition for improving discoloration of a cosmetic whitening active according to claim 1, wherein The whitening component in the whitening cosmetic is one or more of phenylethyl resorcinol, hexyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol or ascorbyl glucoside; the mass fraction of phenylethyl resorcinol in the whitening component is ≤0.5%, the mass fraction of hexyl resorcinol is ≤1%, the mass fraction of 4-butyl resorcinol is ≤0.5%, and the mass fraction of ascorbyl glucoside is ≤0.5%.

10. Use of the composition for improving discoloration of cosmetic whitening active according to any one of claims 1-9 for inhibiting oxidation of the whitening active in the cosmetic.

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