Warp tearability improving composite chaining warp knitting structure of full-width weft insertion and warp insertion changing

Abstract

The invention provides a full-width weft insertion and warp insertion changing composite chaining warp knitting structure capable of improving warp tearability, and relates to the technical field of textile. The composite chaining warp knitting weave is formed by knitting warp yarns of one comb section or two comb sections between a chaining weave coil and an extension line in a full-width lining weft knitting chain weave in a variable warp lining mode, and when the warp yarns of the two comb sections are lined, the warp yarns are lined in a crossed mode. The defects in the prior art are overcome, the problem that the transverse tearing stress performance of a traditional full-width lining weft-knitted chain warp-knitted structure and a fabric thereof is poor can be greatly solved, and the defect that a traditional full-width lining weft-knitted chain warp yarn is easily pulled out by external force in the reverse knitting direction to cause coil loosening can be overcome. The mechanical property of the woven structure is comprehensively improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and specifically to a composite chain warp knitting structure with full-width weft-weft variation weft to improve warp tearing resistance. Background Technology

[0002] Since the development of the full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine by the German company Karl Mayer in the 1970s, the appearance of full-width weft-inserted chain knitted fabrics, with the warp yarns extending longitudinally in self-chain loops and the weft yarns extending laterally in full-width weft insertion, most closely resembles the appearance of conventional woven plain weave fabrics with vertical warp and weft interlacing. However, it offers better breathability and anti-curling properties than traditional woven fabrics. Therefore, full-width weft-inserted chain knitting on full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machines has numerous potential applications in both apparel fabric design and weft-inserted warp-knitted fused interlining base fabric design, in various fabrics, base fabrics for outdoor jackets and waterproof composite fabrics, and decorative fabrics such as curtain fabrics.

[0003] However, developers of any fabric using a standard full-width weft-lined chain knitting structure have encountered two thorny problems that have remained unresolved for a long time: First, the lateral tear resistance of a standard full-width weft-lined chain knitting structure is very weak; second, the chain knitting structure of a full-width weft-lined structure is one of the most basic structures in a full-width weft-lined warp knitting structure (such as...). Figure 1 As shown), it is a full-width weft-lined warp-knitted fabric structure formed by the warp yarns always forming loops on the same corresponding needle, creating a longitudinal and vertical weft yarn arrangement between the front loop post and the back extension line of the chain stitch. In other words, the warp chain stitches connect adjacent parallel weft yarn loops together. When subjected to transverse (along the weft direction) tearing force, the tearing force acts perpendicular to the warp yarns. Further microscopic force analysis reveals that this is equivalent to the shear force acting perpendicularly on the warp yarns at the apex of the torn loop post (e.g., ...). Figure 2 (As shown). The warp yarns in full-width weft-knitted chain-link fabrics are generally quite fine, resulting in relatively low single-yarn breaking strength and knot breaking strength. When tearing, because the weft yarns are bound by the warp yarns, the number of weft yarns subjected to force is large, allowing the force to extend along the length of the fabric to the first warp yarn loop at the tear point and concentrate there. Therefore, this warp yarn loop is destroyed by the tearing force, which continues to extend to the same position on the next warp yarn loop, causing further tearing. This chain-like failure mechanism, with the single warp yarn loop being the primary stressor, is the root cause of the insufficient transverse tear resistance of full-width weft-knitted chain-link fabrics.

[0004] Secondly, during the dyeing and finishing process of the greige fabric, as well as during the garment processing and use, when the warp yarn ends of the full-width weft-knitted chain structure are stretched along the reverse weaving direction, the entire warp yarn is very easy to disintegrate and break apart along the reverse weaving direction and be pulled out in long lengths, thereby damaging the appearance and performance of the fabric.

[0005] Current methods for improving the tear resistance of full-width weft-insulated chain knitted fabrics mainly involve using thicker warp yarns or replacing them with raw materials that have stronger tensile and knot-breaking strength. However, this only moderately improves the transverse tear strength, and the warp tear resistance of full-width weft-insulated chain knitted fabrics with the same warp yarn specification is still the lowest compared to other warp-knitted fabrics. Moreover, even thickening or strengthening the warp yarns does not improve the likelihood of the warp yarns being pulled out in the reverse weave direction. Additionally, multi-comb weave structures can be used to improve the tear resistance and prevent loop unraveling in the reverse weave direction of full-width weft-insulated warp-knitted fabrics. However, any other warp-knitted structure has its own unique appearance (different warp yarn running trajectories). The appearance of the composite fabric formed by combining these with chain knitting structures will be significantly different from that of traditional full-width weft-insulated pure chain knitted fabrics, and it will not resemble the appearance of conventional woven plain weave fabric. For processing where the appearance of the fabric is important, this method cannot meet the corresponding technical requirements. Summary of the Invention

[0006] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention provides a composite chain warp knitting structure with full-width weft-weft variation weft to improve warp tear resistance, effectively enhancing the tear resistance of the structure and comprehensively improving its practical value.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution:

[0008] A composite chain warp knitting structure with full-width weft-insertion and variable warp-insertion to improve warp tearing resistance, wherein the composite chain warp knitting structure is a full-width weft-insertion chain knitting structure in which a comb section (e.g., ...) is inserted between the chain knitting loops and the extension lines in a variable warp-insertion manner. Figure 3 ) or insert two comb sections (such as Figure 4 It is woven from warp yarns, and when the warp yarns of two comb sections are inserted, they are cross-inserted.

[0009] Preferably, the braiding pattern of the composite braided warp knitting structure, which binds the warp and weft yarns, is either an open braiding pattern or a closed braiding pattern.

[0010] Preferably, the open-ended braided flower disc is 10 / 01, and the closed-ended tissue flower disc is 10 / 10.

[0011] Preferably, when a comb-joint warp is inserted, the variation of the warp insert pattern GB2 is either 00 / 11 or 11 / 00.

[0012] Preferably, when the cross-insertion is performed, the GB2 / GB3 pattern is any one of 00 / 11 and 11 / 00 or 11 / 00 and 00 / 11.

[0013] Preferably, the braiding yarn binding the comb section GB1 in the full-width weft-lined braided chain structure is a filament.

[0014] Preferably, the filament is any one of FDY, DTY polyamide or polyester filament.

[0015] Preferably, the warp yarn into which one or two comb sections are inserted is a filament or staple fiber yarn.

[0016] Preferably, the filament is FDY / DTY / ATY yarn or a composite yarn of various filaments; the staple fiber yarn is a single staple fiber yarn or a composite staple fiber yarn.

[0017] This invention provides a composite chain warp knitting structure with full-width weft-weft variation weft to improve warp tearing resistance. Compared with existing technologies, its advantages are:

[0018] This invention designs a full-width variable weft-inserted warp-knitted composite structure and its warp-inserted and weft-inserted chain knitted fabric, which can significantly improve the problem of weak transverse tear strength of traditional full-width weft-inserted chain knitted structures and their fabrics. It can also improve the defect of traditional full-width weft-inserted chain knitted warp yarns being easily pulled out by external force along the reverse knitting direction, causing the loops to unravel. It comprehensively improves the mechanical properties of the knitted structure and maintains the original imitation machine-woven plain weave appearance of the fabric, thus ensuring the use value of the structure. Attached Figure Description

[0019] Figure 1 A schematic diagram of a traditional full-width weft-inserted chain stitch structure;

[0020] Figure 2 A schematic diagram of the transverse tearing stress of a traditional full-width weft-lined braided chain structure;

[0021] Figure 3 This is a diagram of the full-width weft-inserted two-comb closed-loop braiding structure of the present invention, in which a comb section is inserted between the loop post of the braided loop and the back extension line.

[0022] Figure 4 This is a diagram of the full-width three-comb closed-loop braided structure of the present invention, in which two combs of variable warp yarns are interlaced between the loop post and the back extension line of the braided loop.

[0023] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram comparing the physical appearance of the 30Dx30Dx75D (top) and 30DX75D (bottom) in Example 1;

[0024] Figure 6 A schematic diagram of the transverse tear strength of fabric tested by the trouser tear method using the testing instrument of this invention;

[0025] Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the appearance of 30Dx30Dx75D and 30DX75D after tearing in Embodiment 1 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0026] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0027] Example 1:

[0028] I. Varieties of full-width weft-insulated, warp-knitted chain interlining fabric: 30D x 30D x 75D;

[0029] Machine selection: 176-inch 24-needle HKS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine;

[0030] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0031] Machine width: 163.33 inches double width = 2 widths x 207.43cm, each with 8 490 line coil heads.

[0032] GB1: Closed-loop chain 10 / 10 full-stretch PES FDY 30D / 24F

[0033] GB2: Variable lining 00 / 11 full PESDTY 30D / 24F

[0034] Weft yarn: High-elastic lightweight mesh PESDTY 75D / 48F micro-mesh high-elasticity special weft yarn;

[0035] The weft density on the loom is 16.5 threads / cm.

[0036] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0037] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0038] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high temperature setting - double-point coating - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0039] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0040] The setting temperature is 195℃, the width after setting is 154cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 85%, the warp and weft density after setting is 2x12.7x19.4 threads / cm, and the weight per square meter is 42g / m². 2 .

[0041] 3. Double-point coating.

[0042] Using a CP90 mesh, powder-free PA double-dot coating process, coating amount 9-10g / m²2 After coating, the width is 153-154cm, and the weight per square meter is 51-52g / m². 2 .

[0043] II. Production of the same specification traditional full-width weft-knitted chain lining fabric: 30DX75D:

[0044] Machine selection: 176-inch 24-needle HKS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine;

[0045] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0046] Machine width: 163.33 inches double width = 2 widths x 207.43cm, each with 8 490 line coil heads.

[0047] GB1: Closed-loop braided chain 10 / 10 full-stretch PES FDY 30D / 24F

[0048] Weft yarn: High-elastic lightweight mesh PESDTY 75D / 48F micro-mesh high-elasticity special weft yarn;

[0049] The weft density on the loom is 16.5 threads / cm.

[0050] 2: Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0051] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0052] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high temperature setting - double-point coating - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0053] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0054] The setting temperature is 195℃, the width after setting is 154cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 85%, the warp and weft density after setting is 12.7 x 19.4 threads / cm, and the weight per square meter is 38.05g / m². 2 .

[0055] 3: Double-dot coating.

[0056] Using a CP90 mesh, powder-free PA double-dot coating process, the coating amount is 9-10 g / m2. After coating, the width is 153-154 cm, and the weight per square meter is 47-48 g / m2. 2 .

[0057] III. Comparison of Test Data and Analysis of Causes: (Tested according to ISO 13937-2:2009 Trouser Tear Method)

[0058] 1. Comparison of the appearance of the two types of lining fabrics mentioned above Figure 5As shown, the upper part is a full-width weft-lined variable warp-knitted chain interlining fabric: 30Dx30Dx75D, and the lower part is a traditional full-width weft-lined chain interlining fabric: 30DX75D; both are similar in appearance to woven plain weave fabrics.

[0059] 2. Transverse tear test of the two comparison varieties:

[0060] Images of testing instruments are shown below. Figure 6 As shown, and the tear diagrams of the two types of linings after the test are as follows. Figure 7 As shown in Table 1, the transverse tear strength values ​​of the two types of lining fabrics are as follows:

[0061] Table 1

[0062] Lining fabric varieties Transverse tear strength: N (Newtons) 30Dx30Dx75D 19.6N 30DX75D 6.3N

[0063] 3. Analysis

[0064] (1) The breaking strength data of conventional warp and weft yarn raw materials are shown in Table 2 below:

[0065] Table 2

[0066] Raw material specifications Tensile breaking strength Polyester FDY 30D / 24F 3.9-4 cN / dtex Polyester DTY 30D / 24F 3.7-3.9 cN / dtex Polyester DTY 75D / 48F 3.7-4.1 cN / dtex (without mesh) is slightly large.

[0067] (2) Calculation and analysis:

[0068] When a traditional full-width weft-knitted interlining fabric tears laterally, the yarns simultaneously subjected to the tear force are divided into two parts: the weft yarn group above and below the tear line, and the warp yarn loop group near the tear. The tear occurs along the same warp loop position between two weft yarns, resulting in a clear break (e.g., ...). Figure 7 (Left side);

[0069] For example, in a chain-knitted fabric using polyester FDY 30D / 24F as the warp, the front of the loop consists of two arc-shaped sections forming a column, while the back is a single, upward-extending thread. The maximum tensile breaking strength of these three stress-bearing segments at the tear point should be less than 3 x 33 x 0.04 = 3.96 N. However, the tear strength of the 30DX75D interlining is only about 6.3 N. This indicates that when the tear force of the weft yarn group is transmitted to the break point, the two loops above and below the break point on the same warp yarn experience the greatest force and break at that location. The force on the connected loops decreases as they move further away from the break point. Therefore, the force is mainly concentrated between these two loops at the break point. After the tear force destroys the interface between these two loops, the maximum tear force continues to be transmitted to the two loops at the same position on the next warp yarn, destroying them. This chain-like breaking phenomenon results in the straight chain-like fracture appearance of a typical full-width weft-knitted chain-knitted interlining, as shown in the image above for the 30DX75D variety.

[0070] However, when using a 30DX30X75D interlining fabric reinforced with a two-comb full-width interlining weft-interlining variable interlining chain structure, the tensile breaking strength of the added variable interlining yarn, such as 30D polyester DTY yarn, is only 33 x 0.04 = 1.32 N. But this reinforced variable interlining fabric achieves a transverse tear strength of 19.6 N, far exceeding the inherent strength of the interlining yarn itself. Their transverse tearing stress changes significantly, and the tear fracture is no longer a straight line between the two weft yarns; the tear exhibits a blunt cut, and the stress distribution between the warp and weft yarns changes (e.g., ...). Figure 7 (Right side): The warp yarns slide backward, causing more warp loops to participate in the stress. Some of the backing warp yarns are stretched out, while the warp loops that are reinforced by them are stressed together. The weft yarns are stretched, thereby driving more warp loops to be stressed, thus greatly improving the tear strength.

[0071] Example 2:

[0072] 1. Full-width weft-insulated, variable-insulated, warp-knitted chain nylon T400 covered hemp weft yarn fabric: 40D variable-insulated warp x 40D knitted chain x 20S weft yarn.

[0073] Machine Selection: 176-inch 24-needle HKS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine

[0074] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0075] 24-needle HKS full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine, 164.67 inches open to two widths (209.127cm x 2 widths = 16 heads x 494 threads);

[0076] The fabric width on the machine is 209.127cm, the finished fabric width is 166cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 88.5%.

[0077] GB1: 10 / 10PA6 Huading FDY 40D / 34F Semi-gloss Full Penetration 4.49x;

[0078] Feed rate: 1134mm / rack = 4.49x;

[0079] GB2:00 / 11PA6 Huading FDY 40D / 34F Semi-light Full Penetration 1.01x;

[0080] Feed rate 255mm / rack = 1.01x;

[0081] Weft yarn: Tianhong T400 coated hemp 20S (265D), of which T400 FDY60D (content 22.6%);

[0082] Weft density: 19 threads / cm; Greige fabric weight: 79.22 g / m². 2 .

[0083] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0084] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0085] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high-temperature setting - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0086] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0087] The setting temperature is 175℃, the width after setting is 166cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 88.5%, the warp and weft density after setting is 2x11.9x21.5 threads / cm, and the weight per square meter is 112.8±4g / m². 2 ;

[0088] The content of each component in the finished product is as follows: Nylon content: 29.17%; Hemp content: 54.83%; T400 content: approximately 16%.

[0089] II. The production process for conventional full-width weft-lined, reverse-knitted nylon T400 covered hemp weft yarn fabric with 40D knitted chain x 40D knitted chain x 20S weft yarn is as follows:

[0090] Machine selection: 176-inch 24-needle HKS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine;

[0091] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0092] 24-needle HKS full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine, 164.67 inches open to two widths (209.127cm x 2 widths = 16 heads x 494 threads);

[0093] The fabric width on the machine is 209.127cm, the finished fabric width is 166cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 88.5%.

[0094] GB1:10 / 01PA6 Huading FDY 40D / 34F Semi-light Full Penetration 4.5125x;

[0095] Feed rate 1140mm / rack = 4.5125x

[0096] GB2: 01 / 10PA6 Huading FDY 40D / 34F Semi-gloss Full Wear 4.5125x

[0097] Feed rate 1140mm / rack = 4.5125x

[0098] Weft yarn: Tianhong T400 coated hemp 20S (265D), of which T400 FDY60D (content 22.6%)

[0099] Weft density: 19 threads / cm; Greige fabric weight: 94.02 g / m².2 .

[0100] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0101] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0102] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high-temperature setting - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0103] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0104] The setting temperature was 175℃, the width after setting was 166cm, the dyeing and finishing yield was 88.5%, the warp and weft density after setting was 2x11.9x21.4 threads / cm, and the weight per square meter was 133.9±4g / m². 2 ;

[0105] The content of each component in the finished product is as follows: Nylon content: 40%; Hemp content: 46%; T400 content: approximately 14%.

[0106] III. Comparison of Test Data and Analysis of Causes: (Tested according to ISO 13937-2:2000, Trouser Tear Test):

[0107] 1. Transverse tear strength test of the two comparison varieties:

[0108] The specific results are shown in Table 3 below:

[0109] Table 3

[0110] Fabric varieties Transverse tear strength: N (Newtons) 40D variable warp yarn x 40D chain stitch x 20S weft yarn 38.6N 40D braided chain x 40D braided chain x 20S weft yarn 18.7N

[0111] 2. Analysis

[0112] (1) The breaking strength data of conventional warp and weft yarn raw materials are shown in Table 4 below:

[0113] Table 4

[0114] Raw material specifications Tensile breaking strength Nylon 6FDY 40D / 34F 4.4-4.6 cN / dtex T400 60D coated hemp 20S weft yarn 5.7-6.1 cN / dtex

[0115] (2) Calculation and analysis:

[0116] When the lateral tear force is transmitted to a full-width weft-insulated fabric woven with a double-knit chain weave, the yarns simultaneously subjected to the force are divided into two parts: the weft yarn group above and below the tear line, and the warp yarn loop group near the tear. The tear breaks along the same warp loop position between the two weft yarns, and the break is straight and clear. For a double-knit chain weave fabric with nylon 6FDY 40D / 34F warp yarns, the front side of the loop consists of two arc-shaped loops forming a cylinder, while the back side has a single, upward-extending loop. The maximum tensile breaking strength of these three stress-bearing segments of the loop at the tear should be less than 2 x 3 x 44 x 0.045 = 11.88 N. However, the lateral tear strength of a double-knit chain weave fabric with 40D knit chain x 40D knit chain x 20S weft yarns covering hemp yarn is only about 18.7 N. This indicates that when the tear force of the weft yarn group is transmitted to the break, the four loops above and below the break of the same two warp yarns experience the greatest force and break at that point. The force on the connected loops decreases as they move further away from the break. Therefore, the stress is mainly concentrated between the four coils at the break. After the tearing force destroys the interface of these four coils, the maximum tearing force continues to be transmitted to the four coils at the same position of the next two warp threads and destroys them. This chain-like stress phenomenon forms the straight chain-like appearance of the transverse tear of ordinary full-width double-knitted nylon hemp fabric.

[0117] However, when using a nylon hemp variety reinforced with a two-comb full-width weft-weft-weft-weft-weft-weft-weft structure (40D warp x 40D weft x 20S weft), the tensile breaking strength of the added warp yarn (e.g., nylon 6 40D FDY) is only 44 x 0.045 = 1.98 N. Yet, this reinforced fabric variety achieves a tear strength of 38.6 N, far exceeding the inherent strength of the warp yarn itself. The stress distribution during transverse tearing changes significantly, and the tear fracture is no longer a straight line between the two weft yarns. Instead, the tear is blunt, and both warp and weft yarns slip and participate in a new stress pattern: the warp yarn shifts backward, increasing the number of simultaneously stressed loops, while the weft yarn exhibits a stretching stress pattern, thus greatly increasing the tear strength.

[0118] Example 3:

[0119] 1. Full-width weft-insulated, variable-insulated warp-knitted chain T8 elastic yarn fabric: 50D variable-insulated warp x 50D chain x 100D weft yarn.

[0120] Machine Selection: 245-inch 24-needle HKS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine

[0121] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0122] 24-needle HKS full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine, 245 inches open width (311.15cm x 2 widths = 2 combs x 12 coil heads x 490 threads);

[0123] The fabric width on the machine is 311.15cm, the finished fabric width is 186cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 84.65%.

[0124] GB1: 10 / 10 closed-loop chain braided T8 matte FDY 50D / 24F, warp feed 755mm / rack = 5.05x;

[0125] GB2:00 / 11 Variable warp filling T8 matte FDY 50D / 24F, warp feed 153mm / rack = magnification 1.02x;

[0126] Weft yarn: T8 DTY matte yarn 100D / 48F, weft density on the loom: 32duit;

[0127] The theoretical weight per square meter of the grey fabric is 67.42 g / m². 2 .

[0128] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0129] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0130] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high-temperature setting - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0131] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0132] The setting temperature is 185℃, the width after setting is 186cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 84.65%, and the warp and weft density after setting is 2x15.8x37.8 threads / cm.

[0133] The square weight is 133.3 ± 4 g / m². 2 .

[0134] II. The production process of conventional full-width weft-lined single-knit chain T8 elastic fabric with 50D knit chain x 100D weft yarn is as follows:

[0135] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0136] 24-needle HKS full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine, 245 inches open width (311.15cm x 2 widths = 12 heads x 490 threads);

[0137] The fabric width on the machine is 311.15cm, the finished fabric width is 186cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 84.65%.

[0138] GB1: 10 / 10 closed-loop chain braided T8 matte FDY 50D / 24F, warp feed 725mm / rack = 4.84x;

[0139] Weft yarn: T8 DTY matte yarn 100D / 48F, weft density on the loom: 32duit;

[0140] The theoretical weight per square meter of the grey fabric is 60.9 g / m². 2 .

[0141] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0142] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0143] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high-temperature setting - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0144] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0145] The setting temperature is 185℃, the width after setting is 186cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 84.65%, and the warp and weft density after setting is 15.8 x 37.8 threads / cm.

[0146] The square weight is 120.38±4 g / m². 2 .

[0147] III. Comparison of Test Data and Analysis of Causes: (Tested according to ISO 13937-2:2000 Trouser Tear Test)

[0148] 1. The transverse tear strength data of the two comparison varieties are shown in Table 5 below:

[0149] Table 5

[0150] Fabric varieties Transverse tear strength: N (Newtons) 50D variable warp yarn x 50D chain stitch yarn x 100D weft yarn 17.6N 50D braided chain x 100D weft yarn 7.1N

[0151] 2. Analysis:

[0152] (1) The breaking strength data of conventional warp and weft yarn raw materials are shown in Table 6 below:

[0153] Table 6

[0154] Raw material specifications Tensile breaking strength T8 Matte DTY 50D / 24 2.6-2.8 cN / dtex T8 Matte DTY 100D / 48F 2.8-3.0 cN / dtex

[0155] (2) Calculation and Analysis

[0156] When the transverse tear force is transmitted to a full-width T8 fabric woven with a single-knit chain weft, the yarns simultaneously subjected to the force are divided into two parts: the weft yarn group above and below the tear line, and the warp yarn loop group near the tear. The tear breaks along the same warp loop position between the two weft yarns, and the break is straight and clear. For example, in a T8 DTY 50D / 24F warp-knitted chain weft weft elastic yarn fabric, the front of the loop is a cylinder composed of two arc-shaped sections on the left and right, and the back is an extension yarn extending upwards. The maximum tensile breaking strength of these three stress-bearing segments of the loop at the tear should be less than 4.455N. However, the transverse tear strength of a 50DX100D knitted chain weft elastic yarn fabric is only about 7.1N, indicating that when the tear force of the weft yarn group is transmitted to the break position, the two loops above and below the break on the same warp yarn are subjected to the greatest force and break at this point, while the force on the loops connected to them decreases as they are further away from the break. Therefore, the force is mainly concentrated between the two coils at the break. When the tearing force destroys the interface between the two coils, the maximum tearing force continues to be transmitted to the two coils at the same position on the next warp and destroys them. This chain-like force phenomenon results in the straight chain-like fracture appearance of the transverse tear of ordinary full-width weft-insulated T8 elastic fabric.

[0157] However, when using a two-comb full-width warp-knitted chain structure reinforced with a variable warp weft weave, the increased tensile breaking strength of the variable warp yarn T8 50D DTY is only 55 x 0.027 = 1.485 N. But with this reinforced design, the tear strength reaches 17.6 N, far exceeding the inherent strength of the warp yarn itself. The transverse tearing force changes significantly, and the tear fracture is no longer a straight line between the two weft yarns. Instead, the tear is blunt, and both warp and weft yarns slip and participate in the stress: the warp yarn moves backward, significantly increasing the number of loops simultaneously subjected to stress; the weft yarn lengthens and partially slips out, thus greatly increasing the tear strength.

[0158] Example 4:

[0159] I. Varieties of full-width weft-lined double-comb lining warp-knitted chain interlining: 30D X30D X30DX75D.

[0160] Machine selection: 176-inch 24-needle RS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine.

[0161] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0162] Machine width: 163.33 inches double width = 2 widths x 207.43cm, each comb has 8 490-line coils.

[0163] GB1: Closed-loop chain 10 / 10 full-stretch PES FDY 30D / 24F;

[0164] GB2: Variable lining warp 00 / 11 full penetration PESDTY 30D / 24F;

[0165] GB3: Variable lining warp 11 / 00 full penetration PESDTY 30D / 24F;

[0166] Weft yarn: High-elastic lightweight mesh PESDTY 75D / 48F micro-mesh high-elasticity special weft yarn; the weft density on the loom is 16.5 threads / cm.

[0167] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0168] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0169] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high temperature setting - double-point coating - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0170] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0171] The setting temperature is 195℃, the width after setting is 154cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 85%, the warp and weft density after setting is 3x12.7x19.4 threads / cm, and the weight per square meter is 46g / m². 2 .

[0172] 3. Double-point coating.

[0173] Using a CP90 mesh, powder-free PA double-dot coating process, coating amount 9-10g / m² 2 After coating, the width is 153-154cm, and the weight per square meter is 515-56g / m². 2 .

[0174] II. The production process for standard full-width weft-knitted chain interlining fabric (30D x 75D) is as follows:

[0175] Machine selection: 176-inch 24-needle HKS Karl Mayer full-width weft-inserted two-comb warp knitting machine.

[0176] 1. Fabric loading process:

[0177] Machine width: 163.33 inches double width = 2 widths x 207.43cm, each with 8 490-line coil heads;

[0178] GB1: Closed-loop braided chain 10 / 10 full-stretch PES FDY 30D / 24F;

[0179] Weft yarn: High-elastic lightweight mesh PESDTY 75D / 48F micro-mesh high-elasticity special weft yarn;

[0180] The weft density on the loom is 16.5 threads / cm.

[0181] 2. Dyeing and finishing process flow and key control data

[0182] Post-processing of greige fabric:

[0183] Pre-shrinking (refining) - dyeing - high temperature setting - double-point coating - fabric inspection - sampling and testing - warehousing;

[0184] Key process parameters for finalization:

[0185] The setting temperature is 195℃, the width after setting is 154cm, the dyeing and finishing yield is 85%, the warp and weft density after setting is 12.7 x 19.4 threads / cm, and the weight per square meter is 38.05g / m². 2 .

[0186] 3. Double-point coating.

[0187] Using a CP90 mesh, powder-free PA double-dot coating process, coating amount 9-10g / m² 2 After coating, the width is 153-154cm, and the weight per square meter is 47-48g / m². 2 .

[0188] III. Transverse tear strength data for the two types of linings (tested according to ISO 13937-2:2000 trouser tear test):

[0189] The specific results are shown in Table 7 below:

[0190] Table 7

[0191] Lining fabric varieties Transverse tear strength: N (Newtons) 30Dx30Dx30Dx75D 28.2N 30DX75D 6.3N

[0192] IV. Analysis

[0193] The breaking strength data of conventional warp and weft yarn raw materials are shown in Table 8 below:

[0194] Table 8

[0195] Raw material specifications Tensile breaking strength Polyester FDY 30D / 24F 3.9-4 cN / dtex Polyester DTY 30D / 24F 3.7-3.9 cN / dtex Polyester DTY 75D / 48F 3.7-4.1 cN / dtex (without mesh) is slightly large.

[0196] Based on this, the tear resistance of 30Dx30Dx30Dx75D is significantly improved.

[0197] The above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention, and are not intended to limit it. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that modifications can still be made to the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments, or equivalent substitutions can be made to some of the technical features. Such modifications or substitutions do not cause the essence of the corresponding technical solutions to deviate from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composite chain warp knitting structure with full-width weft-weft variation weft to improve warp tearing resistance, characterized in that, The composite chain knitting structure is woven by inserting one or two comb sections of warp yarn between the chain knitting loops and the extension lines in a variable warp-insertion manner in a full-width weft-insertion chain knitting structure, and when two comb sections of warp yarn are inserted, they are cross-inserted.

2. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The braided pattern of the composite braided warp knitting structure, which binds the warp and weft yarns, can be either an open braided pattern or a closed braided pattern.

3. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 2, characterized in that: The open-ended braided flower disc is 10 / 01, and the closed-ended tissue flower disc is 10 / 10.

4. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: When a comb-jointed warp is inserted, the variation of the warp thread GB2 is either 00 / 11 or 11 / 00.

5. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: When cross-stitching is performed, the GB2 / GB3 pattern is any one of 00 / 11 and 11 / 00 or 11 / 00 and 00 / 11.

6. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the full-width weft-lined chain braided structure, the chain yarn binding the comb section GB1 is a long filament.

7. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 6, characterized in that: The filament is any one of FDY, DTY polyamide or polyester filament.

8. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The warp yarns that are lined with one or two comb sections are either filament or staple fiber yarns.

9. The composite chain warp knitting structure according to claim 8, characterized in that: The filament is FDY / DTY / ATY yarn or a composite yarn of various filaments; the staple fiber yarn is a single staple fiber yarn or a composite staple fiber yarn.

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