Warp-knitted jacquard fabric with different fluff heights and knitting method thereof
Through the precise configuration and control of the double-needle bed warp knitting jacquard machine, combined with the loop release plate and transverse movement structure, the problems of pile consistency, fiber cohesion and chemical adhesives in warp-knitted long and short pile fabrics have been solved, achieving efficient production of three-dimensional patterns, softness and breathability, and environmental protection and safety.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202511547069.0
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-10-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing warp-knitted long and short pile fabrics have shortcomings in terms of uniform pile height, poor fiber cohesion, harmful chemical adhesives used in flocking, and poor breathability, which cannot meet the market's demand for three-dimensional patterns and environmentally friendly and healthy fabrics.
Using a double-needle bed warp knitting jacquard machine, the pile length can be adjusted by configuring the basic transverse movement structure and offset signal, combined with the loop release plate and transverse movement structure, to form jacquard short pile, long pile, short-long pile mixed and pile-free areas, avoiding chemical adhesives and using pure knitted loop structure.
It achieves rich three-dimensional patterns, strong structure, soft and breathable feel, and environmentally friendly and safe production, adapting to the needs of small batches and multiple varieties, and meeting the standards for green and environmentally friendly textiles.
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Figure CN121228443A_ABST
Abstract
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a warp-knitted jacquard fabric with different pile heights and a weaving method thereof. BACKGROUND
[0002] The pile fabric is widely used in the fields of home clothes, blankets, winter clothes and decorative products due to its excellent properties such as softness, warmth and strong moisture absorption, because a layer of fine and dense pile is covered on the surface. At present, the pile fabric on the market is mainly produced by knitting, and the warp-knitting technology, especially the application of the double needle bed warp-knitting machine, has become the mainstream choice for producing high-quality pile fabric due to its advantages in weaving efficiency, fabric structure stability and designability.
[0003] In nature, the fur of many animals (such as rabbits and polar bears) has a long and short hair composite structure, that is, the outer layer is relatively long coarse hair, and the inner layer is dense short pile. This structure not only effectively locks air to form an excellent thermal barrier layer with extremely strong warmth, but also has good moisture absorption and perspiration function. The long and short hair fabric is designed to imitate this biological structure, and the goal is to achieve better warmth and comfort than conventional pile fabric.
[0004] However, the current mainstream method of weaving warp-knitted long and short hair fabric has obvious limitations, which is difficult to meet the growing market demand in structure, appearance and environmental safety at the same time, which is specifically shown in: Splitting method: this is the most commonly used method for producing warp-knitted pile fabric. This process first uses a double needle bed warp-knitting machine to weave a double-layer fabric, which is connected by pile warp yarn in the middle, and then cuts the pile warp yarn in the middle by a splitting machine to form two pieces of fabric with pile on the surface. The main defect of this method is that the pile height is uniform, the pile surface is neat but the pattern is single, and it is difficult to form a three-dimensional pattern with a sense of level, so the product appearance is monotonous and lacks innovation.
[0005] Different material spacing method: this method arranges yarns with different shrinkage rates or different fiber lengths as pile warp yarns on the machine, and uses the difference between the materials to form pile with different lengths during the post-finishing process. However, this method has limitations in that the threading process is complicated, the height difference between long and short pile is limited, and the visual effect is not significant enough; the cohesion between different fibers is poor, which can easily lead to pile loss and hair loss during use and washing, affecting the product life and appearance.
[0006] Flocking: This method uses adhesives to vertically fix flocked fibers of varying lengths onto the surface of a base fabric, allowing for the creation of various patterns and designs. However, it is essentially a finishing process rather than a one-piece weaving process, and has fundamental drawbacks. First, aging of the adhesive or wear and tear from washing can lead to severe flocking problems. Second, the chemical adhesives used may contain substances harmful to the human body, failing to meet modern consumers' demands for green, healthy, and environmentally friendly textiles. Finally, flocked fabrics typically have a stiffer feel and poor breathability, affecting wearing comfort.
[0007] With the upgrading of consumption, the market has placed higher comprehensive demands on long and short-pile fabrics: not only are excellent warmth retention, softness, and moisture absorption required, but also a strong visual three-dimensional effect, rich pattern designs, and a non-toxic, recyclable, and green production concept. Therefore, there is an urgent need in this field for a completely new solution that can fundamentally overcome the shortcomings of existing technologies, namely, providing a warp-knitted long and short-pile fabric and its weaving method that can be integrally formed, has rich three-dimensional patterns, a strong structure that is not prone to shedding, and a green and environmentally friendly production process. Summary of the Invention
[0008] This invention proposes a warp-knitted jacquard fabric with different pile heights and its knitting method, solving the problems of uniform pile height, monotonous shape, inability to form three-dimensional and layered floral patterns, and insufficient visual effect; it also addresses the issues of poor cohesion between fabric fibers, which easily leads to shedding and pilling during use and washing, affecting product lifespan and aesthetics; flocked fabrics are usually stiff and have poor breathability, affecting wearing comfort; and the chemical adhesives used in flocking may contain substances harmful to the human body, failing to meet modern consumers' requirements for green, healthy, and environmentally friendly textiles.
[0009] The core technical solution of this invention is as follows: by configuring a basic transverse shift structure for each comb and configuring an offset signal for each Jacquard needle of each half-size Jacquard comb, the fabric can form one or more combinations of jacquard short pile areas, jacquard long pile areas, jacquard short and long pile mixed areas, and no pile areas; the pile length can be adjusted by combining the loop release plate and the transverse shift structure, making the fabric pattern more three-dimensional and layered.
[0010] The specific technical solution of this invention is as follows: A warp-knitted jacquard fabric with different pile heights, said fabric being knitted on a double-needle bed warp-knitting jacquard machine with four sets of guide bars, wherein the first set of guide bars includes at least one ground guide bar, the second set of guide bars includes half-machine size jacquard guide bars JB3.1 and JB3.2, the third set of guide bars includes half-machine size jacquard guide bars JB4.1 and JB4.2, and the fourth set of guide bars includes at least one ground guide bar. The fabric includes a first knitted layer, which is knitted by the first set of guide bars on the front needle bed. The fabric includes a second knitted layer, which is knitted by the fourth set of guide bars on the back needle bed. The first braided layer and the second braided layer have the same number of combs involved in the braiding; The fabric comprises short pile, which is formed by splitting the JB3.2 and JB4.1 yarns after they have been looped in the front and back needle pads, respectively. The warp threads of JB3.2 and JB4.1 are one thread-on-one and one thread-on-one, respectively. The fabric comprises long pile, which is formed by splitting the yarns of JB3.1 and JB4.2 after they are looped on the front and rear needle beds, respectively. The loops formed on the same horizontal row of the front and rear needle beds are staggered by n pattern cycles in the machine width direction. The warp threads of JB3.1 and JB4.2 are one-over-one and one-over-one-over, respectively. The combination of the short fibers and the long fibers forms one or more of the following regions: a jacquard short fiber region, a jacquard long fiber region, a jacquard short and long fiber mixed region, and a fiberless region.
[0011] Furthermore, the pile height of the fabric is adjusted by changing the distance T of the loop release plate and the transverse shift structure. The pattern width W of the fabric determines the height difference between the short pile height X and the long pile height Y. K is the needle pitch distance between the loops of the same transverse row of needle beds on any short pile in the machine width direction. Short pile height X= / 2 Long pile height Y= / 2.
[0012] Furthermore, the weaving method includes: S1 Model Settings: S11 selects the type, width, and size of the weaving machine based on the width, number of widths, and weft density of the finished fabric, and configures the distance of the looper according to the pile length; S12 is configured with comb bars, the first set of comb bars is configured to knit the first knit layer on the front needle bed, and the fourth set of comb bars is configured to knit the second knit layer on the rear needle bed. The second set of comb bars and the third set of comb bars form jacquard pile with different pile heights. S2 Warping: Based on the fabric's width, number of widths, and warp density, calculate the number of warping heads for each comb and the number of warp threads for each head, and configure the number and type of yarns used for each comb. S3 weaving: Weaving different areas of the fabric based on the basic transverse movement structure and offset signal of the comb configuration.
[0013] Furthermore, the S2 warping process involves calculating the number of warping heads and the number of warp threads per warp head for each comb bar based on the fabric's width, number of widths, and warp density, and configuring the number and type of yarns used in each comb bar, including: The first set of combs and the fourth set of combs use the same raw materials. JB3.2 and JB4.1 use the same raw materials. JB3.1 and JB4.2 use the same raw materials. The raw materials of JB3.2, JB4.1 and JB3.1, JB4.2 can be the same or different.
[0014] Furthermore, the S3 weaving process involves weaving different areas of the fabric based on the basic transverse shift structure and offset signal of the guide bar configuration: S31 Woven Jacquard Short Pile Area Both JB3.2 and JB4.1 form short pile by padded yarn in both the front and rear needle beds. JB3.1 only participates in the first knitting layer in the padded yarn of the front needle bed, and JB4.2 only participates in the second knitting layer in the padded yarn of the rear needle bed.
[0015] Furthermore, the S3 weaving process involves weaving different areas of the fabric based on the basic transverse shift structure and offset signal of the guide bar configuration: S32 Woven Jacquard Long Pile Area The loops formed in the same horizontal row on the front and rear needle beds by JB3.1 and JB4.2 are staggered by n pattern cycles in the machine width direction and are padded with yarn to form long pile. JB3.2 only participates in the knitting of the first knitting layer with the yarn padded on the front needle bed, and JB4.1 only participates in the knitting of the second knitting layer with the yarn padded on the rear needle bed.
[0016] Furthermore, the S3 weaving process involves weaving different areas of the fabric based on the basic transverse shift structure and offset signal of the guide bar configuration: S33 Woven Jacquard Short and Long Pile Mixed Area Both JB3.2 and JB4.1 form short pile by padding yarn into loops on the front and rear needle beds, while both JB3.1 and JB4.2 form long pile by padding yarn into loops on the front and rear needle beds.
[0017] Furthermore, the S3 weaving process involves weaving different areas of the fabric based on the basic transverse shift structure and offset signal of the guide bar configuration: S34 Woven Non-Fleece Area JB3.1 and JB3.2 are knitted only on the front needle bed, while JB4.1 and JB4.2 are knitted only on the back needle bed. The present invention has the following technical effects: 1. The floral pattern is three-dimensional and rich, creating a striking visual effect. This invention, through the precise coordination and electronic control of half-size Jacquard combs (JB3.1, JB3.2, JB4.1, JB4.2), can integrally weave various areas on the fabric surface, including short pile, long pile, mixed long and short pile, and no pile. These areas are distributed according to a preset pattern, breaking the limitation of traditional splitting methods that can only form a single pile height. This allows for jacquard effects of arbitrary geometric patterns (such as triangles, twills), biomimetic textures, or abstract patterns. The different pile heights create a strong visual contrast and sense of layering, making the patterns highly three-dimensional and aesthetically pleasing.
[0018] 2. The fabric structure is strong and highly durable. The long and short pile in this invention are all derived from the pile warp yarns of the Jacquard comb. These pile warp yarns are firmly bonded to the front and back needle bed fabrics woven by the ground comb through different looping combinations. The entire fabric is a one-piece woven structure, with the pile and the base fabric connected by loops, rather than by physical bonding or simple implantation. This structure fundamentally solves the problem of pile shedding caused by adhesive aging in flocking methods, and also overcomes the defect of easy shedding due to poor fiber cohesion in the method of alternating different raw materials. It significantly improves the durability and service life of the product, and has excellent wash resistance.
[0019] 3. Soft and comfortable to the touch, with excellent breathability. Because the fabric structure is a pure knitted loop system without any chemical adhesives, and both the base fabric and the pile are made of soft textile yarns, the fabric obtained by this invention retains the inherent softness and fluffiness of knitted fabrics. At the same time, the loop structure gives the fabric excellent breathability and moisture permeability, overcoming the shortcomings of flocked fabrics, such as a stiff feel and stuffiness, resulting in extremely high comfort when worn or used.
[0020] 4. The production process is green and environmentally friendly, and the products are safe and healthy. The entire production process of this invention requires no chemical adhesives and follows conventional textile dyeing and finishing processes from raw materials to finished products, with no harmful chemicals added or emitted. The final product contains no harmful residues, is non-irritating to human skin, and fully meets the safety requirements of today's market for green, environmentally friendly, and healthy textiles.
[0021] 5. Highly efficient and flexible production with strong feasibility. This invention is based on mature double-needle bed warp knitting technology. It can be implemented simply by programming the guide bar configuration and jacquard system of existing equipment (such as the RDPJ6 / 2 warp knitting machine), without the need to modify hardware or add special devices. By changing the jacquard offset signal and the basic structure, different patterns can be quickly and flexibly switched to adapt to the modern market demand for small batches and multiple varieties. It has high production efficiency and is easy to promote industrialization. Attached Figure Description
[0022] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the short pile height and long pile height of a warp-knitted jacquard fabric with different pile heights according to the present invention; Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of a jacquard short-pile area, a jacquard long-pile area, a jacquard short-long-pile mixed area, and a non-pile area in one embodiment of the present invention; Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the twill jacquard fabric structure in one embodiment of the present invention; Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the triangular jacquard fabric structure in one embodiment of the present invention; Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the circular jacquard fabric structure in one embodiment of the present invention. Detailed Implementation
[0023] The technical solutions of the embodiments of this application will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this application, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of this application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of this application.
[0024] In this specification, identical components are represented by the same reference numerals. It should be noted that the terms "front," "rear," "left," "right," "upper," and "lower" used in the following description refer to directions in the accompanying drawings, while the terms "bottom surface," "top surface," "inner," and "outer" refer to directions towards or away from a specific component, respectively. Furthermore, the terms "first" and "second" are used for descriptive purposes only and should not be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implicitly specifying the number of indicated technical features. Therefore, a feature defined as "first" or "second" may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of that feature. In the description of this specification, "multiple" means two or more.
[0025] Example 1 In this embodiment, taking warp-knitted twill jacquard fabrics with different pile heights as an example, a double needle bed warp knitting machine RDPJ6 / 2 is used. Through the precise coordination of 4 half-size Jacquard combs (JB3.1, JB3.2, JB4.1, JB4.2) and 2 ground combs (GB1, GB6; in this embodiment, GB2 and GB5 are not used), two different pile effects with different heights are woven on the surface of the fabric, thereby achieving a jacquard pattern with a three-dimensional sense of layering.
[0026] Device configuration in this embodiment: Double needle bed: It has two needle beds, front and back, which can be used to weave the base fabric separately, namely the first weaving layer and the second weaving layer.
[0027] Jacquard: Jacquard combs are electronically controlled to control the "looping" action of each guide needle, thereby creating or removing nap on the fabric to achieve patterns.
[0028] The principle behind varying pile height: The height of the pile is determined by the length of the "extension line" connecting the front and rear needle bed loops. By changing the distance between the take-off plates and the transverse weave, and by placing the Jacquard yarn on different needle beds and needles, the length of this connecting line can be controlled, thus creating pile heights of varying heights. Figure 1 As shown: The pattern width W of the fabric determines the height difference between the short pile height X and the long pile height Y. K is defined as the distance between stitches in the same horizontal row of the needle bed on either side of any short pile in the machine width direction (K = 25.4 / E * stitch count, W = 25.4 / E * pattern width, where E is the machine size). Therefore, the short pile height and long pile height can be calculated using the following formulas: Short pile height X= / 2 Long pile height Y= / 2 1. The implementation principle of the two jacquard areas In this embodiment, the distance between the loop release plates is set to 8mm: This is a medium to small gap, designed to produce high-density fleece fabrics with moderate pile height and relatively thin fabric. The final product will have a more delicate feel.
[0029] like Figure 3 As shown, this scheme only has the jacquard long-pile area (a) and the jacquard short-pile area (b), which means that the fabric surface will be completely covered by pile. The twill effect is achieved by the difference in pile height (i.e., the difference in luster and the direction of the pile), similar to the textured effect of corduroy, but with a more three-dimensional feel.
[0030] The formation of twill patterns: Small repeating units with a width of 9 stitches and a height of 18 horizontal rows are formed on the fabric surface by arranging short and long fibers in a certain pattern (such as diagonal) within these small units.
[0031] 2. Detailed Explanation of Production Process Parameters 1) Model Settings Machine size E22: E22 indicates 22 needles per inch on the needle bed, denser than the more common E18 and E20. A higher machine size means: More refined patterns: It can express more pattern details in a smaller size, making the diagonal lines clearer and sharper.
[0032] Denseer fabric: Smaller loops, higher fabric density, smoother feel, and better dimensional stability.
[0033] 8mm distance between the looper and the fabric: When used with a high-gauge machine, the resulting pile height is moderate, and the fabric is not too thick, making it suitable for making clothing, bags, and fashionable home furnishings.
[0034] 2) Warping Finished width 185cm: The width of the finished product after weaving.
[0035] To weave one piece of fabric: Weave 185cm of fabric on a 90-inch (approximately 228cm) machine.
[0036] 8.7 wpc: The number of wales per centimeter in the finished fabric.
[0037] Warping process: Lists the number and type of yarn used in each comb.
[0038] Yarn configuration: A: 100D / 36F Polyester DTY: As a ground weave yarn, DTY's bulkiness provides a soft base for fabrics.
[0039] B: 100D / 36F Polyester FDY: All four and a half Jacquard combs use the same coarser FDY yarn. The coarser yarn creates a fuller pile, and the good luster of FDY enhances the visual contrast between short and long pile, making the twill effect more pronounced.
[0040] 3) Weaving The flower pattern has 18 horizontal rows and 9 vertical rows: This is a very small floral repeat, which conforms to the continuous and dense characteristics of twill patterns.
[0041] 12.4 cpc coil density: The high coil density matches the high size (E22) to ensure a tight, high-quality coil structure.
[0042] Comb weaving parameter analysis: GB1 (front needle bed comb) and GB6 (back needle bed comb): GB1 transverse shift weave 5-4-4-4 / 0-1-1-1 / / , GB6 transverse shift weave 1-1-5-4 / 4-4-0-1 / / , using 100D A yarn to weave the first and second weave layers, the weave is basically symmetrical, forming the main framework of the fabric.
[0043] Area 1: Jacquard short pile area (b) JB3.2 and JB4.1: Short pile is formed by padding yarn in both the front and back needle beds. Set the JB3.2 offset signal HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / . Set the JB4.1 offset signal HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0044] JB3.1: Only the front needle mattress yarn participates in the first knitting layer. Set the JB3.1 offset signal HHTH HHHT, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-9-10 / 1-0-10-9 / / .
[0045] JB4.2: Only the back needle mattress yarn participates in the second knitting layer. Set the JB4.2 offset signal THHH HTHH, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-9-10 / 1-0-10-9 / / .
[0046] Fabric appearance: This area is woven with JB3.2 and JB4.1 fabrics, split to form a dense short pile. In this embodiment, K=0, and the calculated short pile height X= / 2=4mm.
[0047] Area 2: Jacquard long-staple area (a) JB3.1 and JB4.2: Long pile is formed by padding yarn on needles where the loops in the same horizontal row formed by the front and rear needle beds are offset by one pattern cycle in the machine width direction. The JB3.1 offset signal HHHH HHHH is set, and the horizontal shift structure is 0-1-9-10 / 1-0-10-9 / / . The JB4.2 offset signal HHHH HHHH is set, and the horizontal shift structure is 0-1-9-10 / 1-0-10-9 / / . It should be noted that the specific number of offset pattern cycles can be adjusted according to actual needs. This embodiment does not constitute a specific limitation on the number of n pattern cycles offset between the loops in the same horizontal row formed by the front and rear needle beds in the machine width direction.
[0048] JB3.2: Only the front needle mattress yarn participates in the first knitting layer. Set the JB3.2 offset signal HHTH HHHT, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0049] JB4.1: Only the back needle mattress yarn participates in the second knitting layer. Set the JB4.1 offset signal THHH HTHH, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0050] Fabric appearance: This area is woven from JB3.1 and JB4.2 fibers, split to form a fluffy long pile. In this embodiment, K=0, and the calculated long pile height Y= / 2≈6mm.
[0051] The formation of the twill effect: On the fabric, the jacquard long-pile area (a) and the jacquard short-pile area (b) are not distributed in large blocks, but are arranged in the form of dots, lines or narrow stripes according to the rule of "pattern height 18, pattern width 9". Due to the differences in reflectivity, height and hardness of long and short pile, when light shines on them, they will form diagonal stripes with alternating light and dark, that is, twill pattern.
[0052] Example 2 This embodiment is a further optimization based on Embodiment 1, taking warp-knitted triangular jacquard fabrics with different pile heights as an example, such as... Figure 4 As shown, the fabric has jacquard short-pile areas, jacquard long-pile areas, and non-pile areas.
[0053] 1. Detailed Explanation of Production Process Parameters 1) Model Settings In this embodiment, a double needle bed warp knitting machine RDPJ6 / 2 is used. This embodiment uses 8 combs, including 4 half-size Jacquard combs (JB3.1, JB3.2, JB4.1, JB4.2) and 4 ground combs (GB1, GB2, GB5, GB6).
[0054] Machine size E18: 18 needles per inch (2.54 cm) on the pointer bed. The higher the machine size, the denser the needles, resulting in a finer fabric. The machine width is 90 inches.
[0055] Loop-off plate distance 30mm: Designed for producing higher pile fabrics, suitable for carpets, premium cushions, toy plush, etc.
[0056] 2) Warping Finished width 185cm: the width of the finished product after weaving.
[0057] To weave one piece of fabric: Weave 185cm of fabric on a 90-inch (approximately 228cm) machine.
[0058] 7.1 wpc: The number of warp rows per centimeter of the finished fabric.
[0059] Yarn configuration: A: 150D / 72F Polyester DTY: Coarser polyester low-elasticity yarn, used as a ground weave yarn, provides a solid base and a soft touch for high-pile fabrics.
[0060] B: 100D / 36F polyester FDY: Fully drawn yarn, high strength, used for reinforcing structures.
[0061] C: 75D / 36F Polyester FDY: All four and a half Jacquard combs use the same FDY yarn. FDY has good luster, high strength, and produces a stiff, well-defined pile with good abrasion resistance.
[0062] 3) Weaving The flower pattern is 20 rows high and 8 rows wide: the jacquard repeat is very small, 20 rows high and 8 stitches wide. This means that the triangle pattern is a small and densely repeating unit.
[0063] Loop density 11.7 cpc: Number of loop rows per centimeter, matched with yarn thickness and pile height.
[0064] Comb weaving parameter analysis: GB1 (front needle bed comb) and GB6 (back needle bed comb): GB1 transverse shift weave 4-3-3-3 / 0-1-1-1 / / , GB6 transverse shift weave 1-1-4-3 / 3-3-0-1 / / , using 150D A yarn, symmetrical weave.
[0065] GB2 (front needle bed comb) and GB5 (back needle bed comb): GB2 transverse shift structure 0-1-1-1 / 1-0-0-0 / / , GB5 transverse shift structure 0-0-0-1 / 1-1-1-0 / / , using 100D B yarn, symmetrical structure.
[0066] Area 1: Jacquard short pile area (b) JB3.2 and JB4.1: Short pile is formed by padding yarn in both the front and back needle beds. Set the JB3.2 offset signal HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / . Set the JB4.1 offset signal HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0067] JB3.1: Only the front needle mattress yarn participates in the first knitting layer. Set the JB3.1 offset signal HHTH HHHT, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-8-9 / 1-0-9-8 / / .
[0068] JB4.2: Only the back needle mattress yarn participates in the second knitting layer. Set the JB4.2 offset signal THHH HTHH, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-8-9 / 1-0-9-8 / / .
[0069] Fabric appearance: The triangular pattern reveals short pile areas formed by JB3.2 and JB4.1.
[0070] Area 2: Jacquard long-staple area (a) JB3.1, JB4.2: Loops formed on the same horizontal row of needles in the front and rear needle beds are offset by one pattern cycle in the machine width direction to form long pile. Set the JB3.1 offset signal HHHH HHHH, and the horizontal shift structure is 0-1-8-9 / 1-0-9-8 / / . Set the JB4.2 offset signal HHHH HHHH, and the horizontal shift structure is 0-1-8-9 / 1-0-9-8 / / .
[0071] JB3.2: Only the front needle mattress yarn participates in the first knitting layer. Set the JB3.2 offset signal HHTH HHHT, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0072] JB4.1: Only the back needle mattress yarn participates in the second knitting layer. Set the JB4.1 offset signal THHH HTHH, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0073] Fabric appearance: The triangular pattern reveals long-pile areas formed by JB3.1 and JB4.2.
[0074] Area 3: Down-free area (c) JB3.1, JB3.2: Set the offset signal HHTH HHHT to knit only on the front needle bed and not form fluff.
[0075] JB4.1, JB4.2: Set the offset signal THHH HTHH, which only knits on the back needle bed and does not form fluff.
[0076] Fabric presentation: The four and a half Jacquard combs are not connected to the front and back needle beds, therefore this area has no pile, displaying the first knit layer woven by GB1, GB2, and JB3.1, JB3.2 on the front needle bed, and the second knit layer woven by GB5, GB6, and JB4.1, JB4.2 on the back needle bed. The triangular pattern is outlined through this contrast of "pile" and "no pile."
[0077] Example 3 This embodiment is a further optimization based on the aforementioned embodiments, taking warp-knitted circular jacquard fabrics with different pile heights as an example, such as... Figure 2 , Figure 5 As shown, the fabric has jacquard short-pile areas, jacquard long-pile areas, jacquard short- and long-pile mixed areas, and no-pile areas.
[0078] 1. Detailed Explanation of Production Process Parameters 1) Model Settings In this embodiment, a double needle bed warp knitting machine RDPJ6 / 2 is used. As can be seen from the model code, this embodiment uses 8 combs, including 4 half-size Jacquard combs (JB3.1, JB3.2, JB4.1, JB4.2) and 4 ground combs (GB1, GB2, GB5, GB6).
[0079] Machine size E18: 18 needles per inch (2.54 cm) on the pointer bed. The higher the machine size, the denser the needles, resulting in a finer fabric. The machine width is 90 inches.
[0080] Loop-off plate distance 6mm: This is the gap between the front and rear loop-off plates of the needle bed, which directly determines the height of the pile.
[0081] 2) Warping Finished width 185cm: the width of the finished product after weaving.
[0082] To weave one piece of fabric: weave 185cm of fabric on a 90-inch (approximately 228cm) machine.
[0083] 7.1 wpc: The number of warp rows per centimeter of the finished fabric.
[0084] Warping process: Lists the number and type of yarn used in each comb.
[0085] Yarn configuration: A: 75D / 72F polyester DTY: 75 denier, 72-filament polyester stretch textured yarn. DTY has a soft hand feel and is fluffy, often used in ground weaves to make fabrics soft.
[0086] B: 75D / 36F Polyester FDY: 75 denier, 36-filament fully drawn polyester yarn. FDY has high strength and good luster, and is often used for reinforced fabrics.
[0087] C: 83D / 36F polyester FDY: Slightly coarser FDY yarn, possibly used for short pile, requiring a certain strength and stiffness.
[0088] D: 66D / 10F Polyester FDY: A finer FDY yarn with fewer filaments. Fewer filaments make the yarn stiffer, resulting in a clearer pile outline, which is very suitable for making long pile yarns and gives them good uprightness.
[0089] 3) Weaving The height of the jacquard repeat is 132 rows, and the width is 42 stitches.
[0090] The fabric density is 12 cpc: 12 courses per centimeter. This parameter determines the size of the loops and the fabric density.
[0091] Comb weaving parameter analysis: GB1 (Front Needle Bed Base Comb): Transverse shift weave 5-4-4-4 / 0-1-1-1 / / , threaded with A yarn. Primarily responsible for knitting the base fabric of the front needle bed.
[0092] GB2 (Front Needle Bed Comb): Transverse shift weave 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-1-1 / / , thread B yarn. Works in conjunction with GB1 to reinforce the front needle bed bottom fabric.
[0093] GB5 (back needle bed bottom comb): transverse shifting weave 1-1-0-1 / 1-1-2-1 / / , threaded with B yarn. Works in conjunction with GB6 to reinforce the back needle bed bottom fabric.
[0094] GB6 (back needle bed base comb): transverse shift weave 1-1-5-4 / 4-4-0-1 / / , threaded with A yarn. Primarily responsible for knitting the base fabric of the back needle bed.
[0095] Area 1: Jacquard short pile area (b) JB3.2 and JB4.1: Short pile is formed by padding yarn in both the front and back needle beds. Set the JB3.2 offset signal HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / . Set the JB4.1 offset signal HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0096] JB3.1: Only the front needle mattress yarn participates in the first knitting layer. Set the JB3.1 offset signal HHTH HHHT, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-41-42 / 1-0-42-41 / / .
[0097] JB4.2: Only the back needle mattress yarn participates in the second knitting layer. Set the JB4.2 offset signal THHH HTHH, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-41-42 / 1-0-42-41 / / .
[0098] Fabric appearance: The surface only shows short fibers formed by JB3.2 and JB4.1.
[0099] Area 2: Jacquard long-staple area (a) JB3.1, JB4.2: Loops formed on the same horizontal row of needles in the front and rear needle beds are offset by one pattern cycle in the machine width direction to form long pile. Set the JB3.1 offset signal HHHH HHHH, and the horizontal shift structure is 0-1-41-42 / 1-0-42-41 / / . Set the JB4.2 offset signal HHHH HHHH, and the horizontal shift structure is 0-1-41-42 / 1-0-42-41 / / .
[0100] JB3.2: Only the front needle mattress yarn participates in the first knitting layer. Set the JB3.2 offset signal HHTH HHHT, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0101] JB4.1: Only the back needle mattress yarn participates in the second knitting layer. Set the JB4.1 offset signal THHH HTHH, and the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0102] Fabric appearance: The surface only shows the long pile formed by JB3.1 and JB4.2.
[0103] Area 3: Jacquard short and long pile mixed area (d) JB3.2 and JB4.1: Short pile is formed by padding yarn on both the front and rear needle beds. The offset signal of JB3.2 is set to HHHH HHHH, and the transverse shift is set to 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / . The offset signal of JB4.1 is set to HHHH HHHH, and the transverse shift is set to 0-1-0-1 / 1-0-1-0 / / .
[0104] JB3.1 and JB4.2: Yarn is padded on both the front and back needle beds to form loops and long pile. Set the offset signal of JB3.1 to HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure to 0-1-41-42 / 1-0-42-41 / / . Set the offset signal of JB4.2 to HHHH HHHH and the transverse shift structure to 0-1-41-42 / 1-0-42-41 / / .
[0105] Fabric appearance: Short and long fibers coexist in this area, creating a mixed three-dimensional effect.
[0106] Area 4: Down-free area (c) JB3.1, JB3.2: Set the offset signal HHTH HHHT to knit only on the front needle bed and not form fluff.
[0107] JB4.1, JB4.2: Set the offset signal THHH HTHH, which only knits on the back needle bed and does not form fluff.
[0108] Fabric presentation: The four and a half jacquard combs are not connected to the front and back needle beds, so there is no nap in this area. It shows the first knitting layer made of GB1, GB2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 on the front needle bed, and the second knitting layer made of GB5, GB6 and JB4.1, JB4.2 on the back needle bed.
[0109] In summary, this invention successfully combines a three-dimensional jacquard appearance, a robust fabric structure, comfortable wearing performance, and a green production process, providing a high-performance long and short pile warp-knitted product and its efficient manufacturing method, meeting the market's urgent demand for high-end differentiated pile fabrics.
[0110] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of this application. It should be noted that for those skilled in the art, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the principle of this application, and these improvements and modifications should also be considered within the scope of protection of this application.
Claims
1. A warp-knitted jacquard fabric with different pile heights, characterized in that, the fabric is knitted by a double needle bed warp-knitted jacquard machine with four groups of bars, wherein the first group of bars comprises at least one ground bar, the second group of bars comprises half-gauge jacquard bars JB3.1 and JB3.2, the third group of bars comprises half-gauge jacquard bars JB4.1 and JB4.2, and the fourth group of bars comprises at least one ground bar, the fabric comprises a first knitted layer, which is knitted by the first group of bars on the front needle bed, the fabric comprises a second knitted layer, which is knitted by the fourth group of bars on the back needle bed, the first knitted layer and the second knitted layer have the same number of participating bars; the fabric comprises short piles, which are formed by cutting the loops of the JB3.2 and the JB4.1 on the front and back needle beds respectively after the loops are laid, and the warp of the JB3.2 and the JB4.1 is one-in-one-out and one-out-one-in respectively, the fabric comprises long piles, which are formed by cutting the loops of the JB3.1 and the JB4.2 on the front and back needle beds respectively after the loops are laid, and the loops of the same course on the front and back needle beds are staggered by n pattern cycles in the machine width direction, and the warp of the JB3.1 and the JB4.2 is one-out-one-in and one-in-one-out respectively, a combination of the short piles and the long piles forms one or more of a jacquard short pile area, a jacquard long pile area, a jacquard short-long pile mixed area, and a non-pile area.
2. The warp-knitted jacquard fabric having different pile heights according to claim 1, characterized in that, The pile height of the fabric is adjusted by changing the distance T of the knock-over board and the width W of the pattern of the fabric determines the height difference between the short pile height X and the long pile height Y, and K is the distance between the loops of the same course on the front and back needle beds of any short pile in the machine width direction: Fuzz height X = 0.5 mm / 2 Height of pile Y = 2.5 mm / 2.
3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp knitting of the warp knit jacquard fabric having different pile heights is characterized by, the knitting method comprises: S1 machine type setting: S11 according to the width, number of widths, and horizontal density of the finished fabric, selecting the machine type, machine width, and machine gauge used for knitting, and configuring the distance of the knock-over board according to the pile length; S12 configuring the bars, configuring the first group of bars to knit the first knitted layer on the front needle bed, the fourth group of bars to knit the second knitted layer on the back needle bed, and the second group of bars and the third group of bars to form jacquard piles with different pile heights; S2 warping: according to the width, number of widths, and horizontal density of the fabric, calculating the number of warping heads for each bar and the number of ends for each head, and configuring the number and types of yarns used by each bar; S3 knitting: according to the basic shogging organization and offset signals of the bar configuration, knitting different areas of the fabric.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein the warp-knitted jacquard fabric having different pile heights is characterized in that, S2 warping: according to the width, number of widths, and horizontal density of the fabric, calculating the number of warping heads for each bar and the number of ends for each head, and configuring the number and types of yarns used by each bar, comprising: the first group of bars and the fourth group of bars use the same raw material, the JB3.2 and the JB4.1 use the same raw material, the JB3.1 and the JB4.2 use the same raw material, and the raw materials of the JB3.2, the JB4.1, the JB3.1, and the JB4.2 can be the same or different.
5. The method of claim 3, wherein the warp-knitted jacquard fabric having different pile heights is characterized by, S3 knitting: according to the basic shogging organization and offset signals of the bar configuration, knitting different areas of the fabric, comprising: S31 weave jacquard short pile area The JB3.2, the JB4.1 form short pile on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the front and back needle beds, the JB3.1 only participates in the knitting of the first weaving layer on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the front needle bed, and the JB4.2 only participates in the knitting of the second weaving layer on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the back needle bed.
6. The method of claim 3, wherein the warp-knitted jacquard fabric having different pile heights is characterized by, The S3 weaving: according to the base shift organization and the offset signal of the guide bar configuration, the different areas of the woven fabric include: S32 weave jacquard long pile area The loops of the same course formed by the JB3.1 and the JB4.2 on the knitting needles of the front and back needle beds are staggered in the machine width direction to form long pile on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of n pattern cycles, the JB3.2 only participates in the knitting of the first weaving layer on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the front needle bed, and the JB4.1 only participates in the knitting of the second weaving layer on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the back needle bed.
7. The method of claim 3, wherein the warp-knitted jacquard fabric having different pile heights is characterized by, The S3 weaving: according to the base shift organization and the offset signal of the guide bar configuration, the different areas of the woven fabric include: S33 weave jacquard short-long pile mixed area The JB3.2 and the JB4.1 form short pile on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the front and back needle beds, and the JB3.1 and the JB4.2 form long pile on the knitting of the loops on the knitting needles of the front and back needle beds.
8. The method of claim 3, wherein the warp-knitted jacquard fabric having different pile heights is characterized by, The S3 weaving: according to the base shift organization and the offset signal of the guide bar configuration, the different areas of the woven fabric include: S34 weave non-pile area The JB3.1 and the JB3.2 only participate in the knitting on the knitting needles of the front needle bed, and the JB4.1 and the JB4.2 only participate in the knitting on the knitting needles of the back needle bed.