Method and sewing equipment for sewing pocket pieces onto a garment

Abstract

Method for sewing a pocket pattern onto a base piece to form a pocket, comprising the following process steps A: Prefabrication of a spatially formed pocket blank with a front part, on the longitudinal sides of which at least one side part is arranged, each connected to the front part by a seam, and with a bottom part arranged on one of the end faces of the front part, which is connected to the front part by means of a further seam, wherein the seams are designed in such a way that the side parts and the bottom part are each directed substantially transversely to the plane of the front part; B: Moving the pocket support plate of a sewing machine for sewing pockets onto the base part into the receiving position for the pocket cutting, C: Arranging a receiving part for the pre-made pocket blank on the pocket support plate, wherein the cross-sectional shape and size of the receiving part corresponds to the space enclosed by the two side parts and the bottom part of the pocket blank; D: Placing and fixing the pre-cut pocket piece onto the receiving part; E: Fold over the ends of the two side pieces and the bottom piece under the pocket cut and press them against the side surfaces of the pocket support plate; F: Lowering the pocket support plate with the mounting part fixed to it onto the base part and then removing the mounting part; so that the pocket cutout hangs on the pocket support plate. G: Position the sewing template on the bag blank while it is still open and press it onto the bag support plate together with the base part; H: Close the sewing template and position it so that the edge areas of the pocket piece to be sewn onto the base piece are below the sewing slots of the sewing template (11), and both the two side pieces and the bottom piece of the pocket piece assume a slant position that is essentially slanted upwards and towards the inside of the pocket; I: Pull back the pocket support plate to its resting position and form the fastening seams for the two side parts and the bottom part on the base part.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to a method and a sewing system for sewing folded pocket cutouts onto a base part.

[0002] Such a method and sewing system are disclosed in prior art DE 198 54 688 A1, which discloses a sewing unit for attaching pre-sewn patches to a workpiece, in which a patch is positioned on a movable workpiece holder, partially covering a pocket to be sewn onto the workpiece. After the workpiece parts have been fed to the sewing machine, the patch is first sewn to the workpiece. Then, the part of the patch that overlaps the pocket is folded over, and the pocket is then sewn to the workpiece.

[0003] DE 198 07 310 A describes a sewing material folding device for a pocket sewing machine, with which an outer circumferential section of a sewing material placed on a support plate can be folded in two directions by means of movable folding parts and with which the support plate and the sewing material can be pressed onto a table by means of a pressing device in order to be fed to a sewing machine with the folding parts retracted.

[0004] To create a cost-effective bag-folding device with a low number of individual parts, DE 101 32 422 A proposes a device comprising a forming plate, a pressing plate for clamping the bag fabric between itself and the forming plate, and folding elements arranged around the circumference of the forming plate and the pressing element for folding over the peripheral edges of the bag fabric. Folding drive means arranged on a large frame are intended to move the folding elements, which are arranged on a small frame. The small frame is attached to the large frame. A device with a fundamentally similar design is also described in DE 100 03 133 A.

[0005] US Patent 5,584,258 A discloses a semi-automatic sewing station for attaching a pocket blank to a shirt pocket flap. The pocket blank is sewn in a conventional manner and attached using a shirt panel, which is held in place by a shirt holder. The pocket flap is positioned over the open pocket in the XY direction using a movable clamp, and the shirt panel is released to allow relative movement with respect to the needle.

[0006] Finally, DE 2 025 312 A presents a further solution in which a pocket or pocket piece is sewn onto a garment by placing the pocket piece in a clamp, folding the edges of the pocket piece around an edge-forming plate of the clamp using a movable folding element, and positioning the folded pocket piece on the garment. The folding element is then retracted, a seam is created by closing the edge-forming plate, and the pocket piece is sewn to the garment along its seam.

[0007] DE 41 13 131 C1 discloses a sewing system formed by a sewing machine and a folding device for sewing on bag blanks. The bag blanks are first folded over at their edges and then picked up by a program-controlled material holder of the sewing system and fed to the sewing machine. Such folding devices each consist of a pressure plate arranged on a first support and several folding sliders attached to a frame also arranged on the first support. These sliders can be moved back and forth between a rest position and a folded position by means of pneumatic cylinders. The first support can be moved to different height positions: a rest position at the top, a folded position below it, and a transfer position at the bottom.

[0008] A pocket support plate is attached to a second bracket. This second bracket is essentially movable into two different height positions: an upper insertion and folding position corresponding to the middle position of the first bracket, and a lower pressure position corresponding to the lower position of the first bracket for the folded edges of the pocket blanks placed on the pocket support plate. For precise, pattern-accurate alignment of patterned pocket blanks and sewing components, the pocket support plate can be moved, if necessary, into a third height position, in which it is located just above the base.

[0009] With sewing systems of this type, the bag blanks can be positioned on the bag support plate in one work cycle, folded over along the edge areas to be sewn, and moved to the sewing machine in this position to form the fastening seams.

[0010] Because the front part of the pocket is sewn flat onto the base of the garment, pockets made in this way have a relatively small capacity, which is quite sufficient if the pocket to be made is, for example, the breast pocket of a shirt or the breast pocket of a blouse.

[0011] However, if the bag is to have a larger capacity, it is necessary to create a gap between the bag or front panel and the base piece while maintaining the same size. This can be achieved, for example, by attaching a side panel and a bottom panel to both long sides of the front panel, as well as to the end panel opposite the pocket opening. Since both side panels and the bottom panel must be sewn to both the front panel and the base piece, attaching the front panel to the base piece is very time-consuming and relatively complicated to handle.

[0012] The invention is based on the objective of creating both a method and a device that enables the rational production and sewing of a bag having a bottom and two side parts.

[0013] According to the invention, a method comprising the process steps A to I of claim 1 is proposed to solve this first sub-problem.

[0014] Regarding process step A, it is assumed that the front part and the two side parts are formed from separate cut pieces and are connected to each other by appropriate seams in such a way that the two side parts run essentially perpendicular to the front part.

[0015] It is of course also possible, and irrelevant for the inventive method, whether the front part and the two side parts are formed from separate cut pieces and connected to each other by appropriate seams, or whether these parts are formed from only a single cut piece, on the longitudinal sides of which an “S-shaped” fold is formed at a distance equal to the width of the front part and secured by a longitudinal seam.

[0016] Accordingly, it is also possible, and irrelevant for the inventive method, whether the bottom part is sewn onto the front part as a separate piece, or whether a corresponding "S-shaped" fold is formed at the end of the front part furthest from the pocket opening and secured by a transverse seam.

[0017] In both cases, it is only important that on both long sides, as well as on the end of the pocket pattern opposite the pocket opening, there is a free area of ​​the same pattern running perpendicular to the plane of the pocket pattern, which forms the connection between the pocket pattern and the base piece in the finished sewn bag.

[0018] Since the pocket cutout is to be sewn onto the base piece at a predetermined distance, it is necessary to position the free ends of both side pieces and the bottom piece in a position corresponding to this distance before the sewing process.

[0019] This sub-task is solved in a simple manner by feature C of claim 1 in that, before folding in the free ends of both the side parts and the bottom part, a receiving part for the pre-made pocket blank is temporarily positioned on the pocket support plate, the cross-sectional shape and size of which corresponds to the space enclosed by the two side parts and the bottom part of the pocket blank, so that the two side parts and the bottom part can be folded around the receiving part (see Fig. 2) After the folding process, the receiving part is removed from the pocket support plate in the area of ​​the (later) pocket opening ( Fig. 3)

[0020] Since the area of ​​the bag pattern bounded by the fastening seam for the side panels and the bottom panel corresponds to the size and shape of the area bounded by the fastening seam for the side panels and the bottom panel on the base panel, there is a risk that when sewing the side panels and / or the bottom panel to the base panel, the area of ​​a side or bottom panel that is already connected to the front panel will be pierced and sewn again.

[0021] To avoid this, it is therefore necessary to position the side panels and the bottom panel in such a way that only the edge areas of the side panels and the bottom panel necessary for forming the respective edge seam protrude into the path of movement of the needle.

[0022] According to the invention, to solve this further sub-problem, it is provided that, during the closing of a symmetrically longitudinally divided sewing template designed as a hollow body, it is positioned such that the edge areas of the pocket cutout to be sewn onto the base part are located below the sewing slots of the sewing template, and the remaining areas of both the side parts and the bottom part assume a substantially oblique upward and towards the inside of the pocket and are predominantly located inside the sewing template ( Fig. 5 and Fig. 6).

[0023] In order to fold over the ends of both side parts and the end of the bottom part of the pocket blank in their respective edge regions during the execution of the process, using simple folding sliders in their construction and function, to create a flawless edge profile, a receiving part 9, which can be detachably positioned on the pocket support plate 1, is provided for the pre-fabricated pocket blank according to feature B of claim 3. The cross-sectional shape and size of the receiving part correspond to the space enclosed by the two side parts and the bottom part of the pocket blank. The receiving part 9 can be positioned on the pocket support plate 1 either by hand or by means of a suitable device and removed after folding.

[0024] To position and fix the pocket pattern in the sewing position, the symmetrically longitudinally divided sewing template 11 is first placed on the pocket pattern while still open. The sewing template 11 is then positioned in its closed state by the areas 16 extending horizontally outwards from its long sides and by the area 17 extending outwards from its end face, so that the edge areas of the pocket pattern to be sewn onto the base piece are located below the U-shaped sewing slot 19 provided in the sewing template 11. During the positioning and closing movement of the sewing template 11, surfaces or other actuating means on it act on the side and bottom pieces of the respective pocket pattern to guide them towards the center and upwards within the sewing template 11.

[0025] The device used to carry out the method has the features A to F specified in claim 3.

[0026] Further details and advantages of the method according to the invention will become apparent from its subsequent description as well as from the description of an exemplary embodiment of a device used to carry out the method.

[0027] They show: Fig. 1: A representation of the folding station with the folding sliders, the receiving part, the pocket blank and the pocket support plate in their respective starting positions in sectional and top view; Fig. 2: A representation of the folding station with the folding sliders, the receiving part, the pocket cutout and the pocket support plate after folding over one of the side parts; Fig. 3: A representation of the folding station accordingly Fig. 2 with the folding sliders, the receiving part, the pocket cutout and the pocket support plate after folding over one of the side parts; Fig. 4: A diagram showing a section of the sewing station with the sewing template and sewing machine in sewing position; Fig. 5: A sectional view and a top view of the still open sewing template with the pocket support plate and the pocket cutout folded over at its side parts and the bottom part, or the front part of the pocket; Fig. 6: A sectional view and a top view of the still open sewing template with the bag support plate and the bag cutout or front part of the bag folded over at its side parts and the bottom part when placing the template on the bag cutout or on the front part of the bag; Fig. 7: One of the Fig. 6 corresponding illustration with retracted pocket support plate.

[0028] The sewing system used to carry out the method comprises, in a manner known per se, a folding device, a device for transferring the folded parts from the folding station to a sewing station, a material support plate arranged therein, and a sewing machine. The sewing machine is of a known design and has an up-and-down thread-guiding needle that interacts with a gripper (not shown) to form stitches. Furthermore, the sewing machine is equipped with a drive and a guide device for producing predefined seam shapes. These functional groups are of a known design.

[0029] The folding station has a pocket support plate 1, the size and shape of which are adapted to the size and shape of the pocket to be sewn onto the base of a garment. The pocket support plate 1 typically serves both as a support surface for the pocket blank 2 and as a folding element for it. Three folding slides 3, 4, 5 work together with the pocket support plate 1 in a manner known per se. Each of these slides is moved into its working position by a pressure cylinder 6, 7, 8 and remains in this position for a period of time. The folding slides 3, 4, 5 are arranged in a U-shape relative to each other, with one folding slide positioned parallel to each of the two longitudinal sides and one parallel to the end face of the pocket blank furthest from the pocket engagement point.The folding sliders are of conventional design and are configured as angled pieces, with the horizontally oriented section of each folding slider passing under the pocket support plate 1 and folding over both the end of the respective side panel and the end of the pocket blank 2. In the final position of the folding sliders, their vertically oriented section rests against the corresponding side surface of the pocket support plate 1, with the respective side panel or the bottom panel of the pocket blank 2 positioned between them, thus securing the pocket blank 2.

[0030] According to the invention, the pocket support plate 1 simultaneously serves as a carrier for a receiving part 9 to be temporarily positioned on it for the respective pre-made pocket blank 2, wherein the size and cross-sectional shape of the receiving part 9 corresponds to the space enclosed by the two side parts and the bottom part.

[0031] The receiving part 9 creates a distance between the base part and the pocket cutout 2 corresponding to the clear width of the bag to be produced for the folding process, so that the clear width of the pockets to be sewn on can be changed without additional measures by using receiving parts 9 of different heights.

[0032] To precisely position the receiving part 9 on the pocket support plate 1, the latter can have a guide groove (not shown) for a guide strip (not shown) arranged on the underside of the receiving part 9. The guide strip can engage in the guide groove with a slight press fit or with a sliding fit, so that the receiving part 9 is detachably connected to the pocket support plate 1.

[0033] To form the fastening seams for the pocket piece 2 on the base part, the base part is placed in a sewing template 11, which has a substantially trapezoidal cross-section. The sewing template 11 is symmetrically divided longitudinally into two halves 13, 14, which are movable relative to each other transversely to their longitudinal axis, so that the sewing template 11 can be brought into an open form that accommodates the respective base part with the respective pocket piece 2 and into a closed form that secures the relative position of the held parts, in which the fastening seams are formed within the sewing station.

[0034] Both halves 12, 13 of the sewing template 11 each have an upper horizontally directed area 14, to which a diagonally outwardly and downwardly directed area 15 is attached. A horizontally and also outwardly directed area 16 is attached to the outwardly and downwardly directed area 15 of the sewing template 11.

[0035] In the receiving area for the bottom part of the bag pattern 2, each half 12, 13 of the sewing template 11 also has a diagonally outwardly and downwardly directed area 17, which also transitions into a horizontally and outwardly directed area 18. A slit is incorporated into each of the horizontally extending areas 16 and 18 of the sewing template 11, the three slits forming a U-shaped sewing slit 19 for the needle to pass through in order to form the essentially U-shaped fastening seam when the sewing template 11 is closed.

[0036] Since, after folding over the pocket piece 2 and removing the receiving part 9, the pocket piece hangs more or less uncontrolled on the pocket support plate 1 and is transferred in this form to the sewing template 11, the two halves 12,13 of the sewing template 11 must be positioned during their closing movement after the sewing template is placed on the pocket piece 2, so that both the edge areas of the two side parts to be sewn onto the base part, as well as the bottom part of the pocket piece 2, are located below the U-shaped sewing slot 19 of the closed sewing template 11.

[0037] For this purpose, each of the two halves 12, 13 of the sewing template 11 is assigned a pressure cylinder 23 equipped with a sliding element 22. The two sliding elements 22 engage the horizontally oriented area of ​​the respective half 12, 13 of the sewing template 11 via an intermediate piece. Since the two pressure cylinders 23 and, consequently, the two sliding elements 22 are arranged at an acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the sewing template 11, the movement of the sliding elements results in both a longitudinal and a transverse movement of the respective half 12, 13 of the sewing template 11.

[0038] Since the area of ​​the bag cutout bounded by the fastening seam for the side panels and the bottom panel on the bag cutout corresponds to the size and shape of the area bounded by the fastening seam for the side panels and the bottom panel on the base panel, there is a risk that when sewing the side panels and / or the bottom panel to the base panel, the area of ​​a side or bottom panel already connected to bag cutout 2 will be pierced and sewn on.

[0039] To avoid this, the sewing template 11 has the trapezoidal shape described above, so that during the actual sewing process only the immediate edge areas of the side pieces and the bottom piece are outside the sewing template 11.

[0040] In order to ensure that the remaining areas of the respective pocket pattern 2 assume the desired (essentially inclined upwards and towards the inside of the pocket) angle, openings 23 for air streams exiting from blow nozzles 25 laterally are provided in the laterally and outwards directed areas 14,15 of the sewing template 11.

[0041] Folding over both the side and bottom sections of the bag pattern before sewing can cause material to accumulate in the corners of the U-shaped seam. To prevent such accumulations, openings 24 are provided in both the horizontal areas 14 and the downward and outward-facing areas 15 and 17 of the sewing template 11. These openings counteract the formation of air pockets within the sewing template 11.

Claims

[1] Method for sewing a pocket pattern onto a base to form a pocket, comprising the following process steps A: Prefabrication of a spatially formed pocket blank with a front part, on the longitudinal sides of which at least one side part is arranged, each connected to the front part by a seam, and with a bottom part arranged on one of the end faces of the front part, which is connected to the front part by means of a further seam, wherein the seams are designed in such a way that the side parts and the bottom part are each directed substantially transversely to the plane of the front part; B: Moving the pocket support plate of a sewing machine for sewing pockets onto the base part into the receiving position for the pocket cutting, C: Arranging a receiving part for the pre-made pocket blank on the pocket support plate, wherein the cross-sectional shape and size of the receiving part corresponds to the space enclosed by the two side parts and the bottom part of the pocket blank; D: Placing and fixing the pre-cut pocket piece onto the receiving part; E: Fold over the ends of the two side pieces and the bottom piece under the pocket cut and press them against the side surfaces of the pocket support plate; F: Lowering the pocket support plate with the mounting part fixed to it onto the base part and then removing the mounting part; so that the pocket cutout hangs on the pocket support plate. G: Position the sewing template on the bag blank while it is still open and press it onto the bag support plate together with the base part; H: Close the sewing template and position it so that the edge areas of the pocket piece to be sewn onto the base piece are below the sewing slots of the sewing template (11), and both the two side pieces and the bottom piece of the pocket piece assume a slant position that is essentially slanted upwards and towards the inside of the pocket; I: Pull back the pocket support plate to its resting position and form the fastening seams for the two side parts and the bottom part on the base part. [2] Method for sewing a pocket cutout onto a base part according to claim 1, characterized by one or more air currents serving to support the lateral movement of the side panels and / or the bottom panel. [3] Device for carrying out the method according to claim 1, comprising: A. A sewing machine with a fabric support table and a pocket support plate that can be moved between a rest position and an active position; B. a receiving part (9) that can be detachably positioned on the pocket support plate (1) for the pre-made pocket blank, the cross-sectional shape and size of which corresponds to the space enclosed by the two side parts and the bottom part of the pocket blank; C. Means for folding over both the ends of the two side pieces and the end of the bottom piece of the bag cutout, as well as means for temporarily fixing the position of the side pieces and the bottom piece in the position achieved by the folding process; D. Means for positioning a symmetrically longitudinally divided sewing template (11) on the pocket blank and pressing it together with the base part onto the pocket support plate (1); E. Means for closing and positioning the sewing template (11) such that the edge areas of the pocket cut to be sewn onto the base part are located below the sewing slots (19) of the sewing template (11); F. Means to bring the edge areas of both side pieces and the bottom piece of the bag pattern, which face the front part of the bag pattern, into a slanted position that is essentially slanted upwards and towards the inside of the bag, before and during the sewing of the bag pattern onto the base piece. [4] Device according to claim 3 characterized by , that the sewing template (11) has an essentially trapezoidal cross-section and is designed as a hollow body. [5] Device according to claim 4 characterized by, that the sewing template (11) has on each of its two long sides a horizontally outwardly extending area (16), as well as a horizontally outwardly extending area (18) from its frontal area (17), and that these areas serve as hold-downs for the edge areas of the side parts and the bottom part to be joined to the base part during the formation of the fastening seam. [6] Device according to claim 5 characterized by , that both the horizontally directed areas (16) and the horizontally directed area (18) of the sewing template (11) each have a slit and that these slits, when the sewing template (11) is closed, form a U-shaped sewing slit (19) for the passage of the needle. [7] Device according to claim 5 characterized by, that the horizontally outwardly extending areas (16) of the sewing template (11) can each be brought into drive connection with a sliding element (21) for closing the sewing template (11), which can be driven by means of a pneumatic cylinder (22). [8] Device according to claim 7 characterized by , that the sliding elements (21) and the horizontally outwardly extending areas (16) of the sewing template (11) are each formed in one piece. [9] Device according to claim 7 characterized by , that the pneumatic cylinders (22) act on the sewing template (11) in the respective end-face corner area to achieve a two-dimensional movement of the sliding elements (21).

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