Oxidative hair dye with reduced hair damage and improved dyeing properties
Incorporating xylitol ether compounds into oxidative hair colorants addresses the issue of hair damage caused by high alkaline pH, resulting in improved conditioning and coloring performance with enhanced color intensity and fastness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE102017223233
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2017-12-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-08
- Estimated Expiration
- 2037-12-19
AI Technical Summary
Conventional oxidative hair colorants have a high alkaline pH, which causes hair damage by enhancing the damaging effect of oxidizing agents on the hair structure, leading to roughness, poor haptics, reduced gloss, and impaired color fastness properties.
The use of a colorant containing at least one ether compound of xylitol, which improves the conditioning and coloring performance by reducing hair damage and enhancing color intensity, separation, and chromaticity.
The colorant with xylitol ether compounds results in a significantly smoother hair surface and improved oxidative coloring performance, including increased color intensity and better color fastness.
Abstract
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a colorant for oxidative hair coloring which has an optimized conditioning performance and / or an improved coloring performance, as well as to a method for oxidative hair coloring using an oxidative colorant with optimized conditioning and / or coloring performance.
[0002] So-called oxidation dyes are used for permanent, intensive colorings with corresponding fastness properties. Oxidative dyes typically consist of two components: one component usually contains oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents, particularly hydrogen peroxide, which are added to the first component shortly before application to the hair, or of atmospheric oxygen, either with each other or by coupling with one or more coupler components. Typically, primary aromatic amines with an additional free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives, and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are used as developer components.Typically, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols, and substituted pyridine derivatives are used as coupler components. These oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results.
[0003] Conventional oxidative colorants have a more alkaline pH value, significantly above 9.0, to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during oxidative application. Ammonia, in particular, enables good coloring results, but also presents disadvantages for the user due to its odor and potential irritation to skin and mucous membranes. The alkalizing agent causes the keratin fibers to swell, allowing the dye precursors to penetrate the hair easily. However, the alkaline pH also intensifies the damaging effect of the oxidizing agent on the hair structure. The damage to the hair structure, which is particularly noticeable, affects the flaking of the cuticle, the outer layer of the keratin fiber.This manifests itself in increased roughness, poorer feel, reduced shine, and poorer stability of the fiber. The roughened cuticle structure allows small molecules, such as water, to escape more quickly. As a result, damaged hair further loses its suppleness and elasticity. The roughened fiber surface also impairs the colorfastness properties.
[0004] Therefore, special efforts are being made to develop effective oxidative colorants containing one or more active ingredients that can counteract the damaging effects of the oxidizing agent, thus reducing hair damage. In this context, reducing hair damage refers to both a reduction in surface damage and a reduction in damage within the keratin fiber.
[0005] Acidic conditioners are a common means of reducing superficial hair damage. With their acidic pH, usually in the range of pH 4 to 5, they quickly smooth the rough fiber surface. However, this measure does not affect the properties of the oxidative dye itself, which must be strongly alkaline to achieve a good coloring result. The application of an acidic conditioner can therefore only be carried out in a subsequent step, which is time-consuming and which consumers would prefer to avoid. Dyes that only use direct dyeing and therefore do not require the action of an oxidizing agent are slightly to strongly acidic. However, such direct dyes, so-called tints, are usually significantly less wash-, light-, and / or rub-fast than oxidative dyes. Because they work additively, they usually only achieve visible color changes on relatively light to at most medium-blonde hair.In oxidation coloring, however, the oxidizing agent also destroys the fiber's own pigment, melanin, so that even darker hair can be colored in many fashionable shades, which are often lighter than the original color of the fiber.
[0006] Oxidation dyes adjusted to a weakly alkaline or even weakly acidic pH are not preferred by consumers because of the often less satisfactory dyeing result.
[0007] Fats or silicones are often added to these dyes to reduce hair damage caused by alkaline oxidation dyes. Formulating these dyes presents numerous problems, as the fat-containing dye cream must be easily mixed with the high-water content hydrogen peroxide developer and applied to the hair, at the very latest during preparation of the application mixture. This usually requires the use of large amounts of surfactants or emulsifiers, which can also contribute to hair damage. The water-insoluble fats, oils, waxes, or silicones can hinder the explicitly desired swelling of the hair during the dye's application time, thus preventing the dye precursors from penetrating the keratin fibers. Furthermore, the more water-insoluble components, such as fats and oils, the more difficult it is to wash out the dyes after the application time.Furthermore, low-fat and fat-free oxidation dyes can be easily formulated transparently, a dosage form currently preferred by a large group of consumers. The present application was therefore based on the object of providing an oxidation dye with a low fat content that reduces hair damage.
[0008] The present application was further based on the object of providing an oxidation dye with a low fatty substance content which leaves the hair with the smoothest possible surface after the dyeing process.
[0009] A further task was to develop an oxidative dye with improved dyeing performance. Improved dyeing performance can include improved color intensity, increased color difference, improved color lift, or improved chromaticity.
[0010] It has now been found that a dye containing at least one ether compound of xylitol leaves the hair with a significantly smoother surface after the dyeing process than the same dye containing no ether compounds of xylitol.
[0011] It has further been found that a colorant containing at least one xylitol ether compound can improve the coloring performance of an oxidative dyeing treatment. The colorants according to the invention achieve improved color intensity and / or increased color difference and / or improved color lift and / or improved chromaticity compared to analogous colorants that do not contain a xylitol ether compound. State of the art
[0012] The use of xylitol ethers in cosmetic compositions was already known. WO 2007 / 125239A1 discloses the use of xylitol ethers with certain mono-, di-, or trisaccharides, preferably with glucose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, mannose, ribose, xylose, sucrose, maltose, isomaltose, lactose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, talose, cellobiose, or maltotriose, for the production of cosmetic cleansing agents, in particular for improving the foaming properties of these cleansing agents.
[0013] WO 1998 / 052523 A1 discloses oxidative hair dyes that produce a color with improved washfastness. The dyes contain alkalizing agents, at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor, and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor. The oxidation dye preferably has a pH above 6.1, particularly preferably a pH in the range of 9 to 12. Silicones, higher alcohols, or cationic polymers can be included as hair conditioners. WO 2003 / 094864 A2 discloses skin care products containing polyol glycosides, including xylitylglucoside.
[0014] The present invention relates, in a first embodiment, to an oxidation colorant for the oxidative color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, at least one ether compound of xylitol and, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant, zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, wherein the oxidation colorant has a pH in the range from 8 to 11, in particular in the range from 8.5 to 10.7, particularly preferably in the range from 9 to 10.3, extraordinarily preferably 9.5 to 9.7, in each case measured at a temperature of 22 °C and wherein the at least one ether compound of xylitol is selected from ethers of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers and from mixtures thereof.
[0015] Xylitol is a sugar alcohol with 5 carbon atoms and 5 hydroxy groups. It has the CAS No. 87-99-0.
[0016] The term “ether compounds of xylitol” refers to the ether compounds between xylitol and a compound other than xylitol having at least one OH group suitable for etherification, as well as the ether compounds between two or more xylitol molecules and the intramolecular ethers of xylitol.
[0017] Preferred intramolecular ethers of xylitol are 1,4-anhydroxylitol and 1,5-anhydroxylitol, with 1,4-anhydroxylitol being particularly preferred.
[0018] Polyols selected for etherification with xylitol are monosaccharides and oligosaccharides. According to the invention, oligosaccharides are understood to be saccharides consisting of 2 to 5 monosaccharides, preferably 2 to 3 monosaccharides.
[0019] Monosaccharides preferred for ether formation with xylitol are selected from erythrose, threose, erythrulose, ribose, deoxyribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose, fucose and rhamnose, particularly preferably glucose, galactose, fructose, fucose and rhamnose, extremely preferably glucose.
[0020] Particularly preferred disaccharides for ether formation with xylitol are selected from maltose, cellobiose, sucrose, lactose, and trehalose. Of these, maltose, cellobiose, and sucrose are particularly preferred, especially maltose and cellobiose.
[0021] Trisaccharides particularly preferred for ether formation with xylitol are selected from maltotriose and raffinose.
[0022] Oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one xylitol ether compound selected from xylitol ethers with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers, as well as mixtures thereof. Further oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one xylitol ether compound selected from xylityl monoglucoside, xylityl oligoglucoside with 2, 3, 4, or 5 consecutive glucose units, 1,4-anhydroxylitol, and 1,5-anhydroxylitol, as well as mixtures thereof. Further oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one xylitol ether compound selected from xylityl monoglucoside, xylityl oligoglucoside with 2 or 3 consecutive glucose units, and 1,4-anhydroxylitol, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0023] Further oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized by a total content of at least one ether compound of xylitol of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 - 1 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
[0024] The oxidation colorant according to the invention can be in the form of a water-based gel, emulsion, cream, lotion, paste, spray, or shampoo. Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are in the form of a water-based gel. Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are in the form of a water-based gel, which, based on its weight, contains a total of zero to a maximum of 2 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of fatty substances.
[0025] Oxidative dyeing processes on keratin fibers typically take place in an alkaline environment. Therefore, the pH of the oxidative dyeing agent according to the invention is preferably in the range of 8 to 11, in particular in the range of 8.5 to 10.7, particularly preferably in the range of 9 to 10.3, and extremely preferably 9.5 to 9.7, each measured at a temperature of 22°C.
[0026] The alkalizing agents suitable for adjusting the preferred pH according to the invention are selected from ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal phosphates, and alkali metal hydrogen phosphates. The alkali metal ions in the aforementioned alkalizing salts are preferably lithium, sodium, or potassium, especially sodium or potassium.
[0027] The basic amino acids that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group L-arginine, D-arginine, D,L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D,L-lysine and mixtures thereof.
[0028] The alkali hydroxides that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
[0029] The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents preferably have 2 to 9 carbon atoms in the molecule and are particularly preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof. Alkanolamines which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol; 2-aminoethan-1-ol is extremely preferred.However, secondary amines such as diisopropanolamine (1,1'-iminodipropan-2-ol) are also suitable alkalizing agents according to the invention. Oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide and alkanolamines is present in a total amount of 2-8 wt.%, preferably 2.5-7 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-6 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 3.5-5 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
[0030] Since the oxidation dyes according to the invention preferably contain fatty substances in a total amount of zero to 2 wt. %, preferably 0.01-1.5 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0 wt. %, extraordinarily preferably 0.2-0.5 wt. %, based in each case on the weight of the oxidation dye, they preferably do not contain ammonia or ammonium hydroxide as an alkalizing agent. Low-fat oxidation dyes containing ammonia or ammonium hydroxide release larger amounts of ammonia during the dyeing process than high-fat oxidation dyes, so non-volatile alkalizing agents, i.e., all alkalizing agents other than ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, are preferred according to the invention. Oxidation colorants particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkalizing agent selected from alkanolamines, extremely preferably 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, is present in a total amount of 2 - 8 wt.%, preferably 2.5 - 7 wt.-%, particularly preferably 3 - 6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 - 5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
[0031] Oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant, fatty substances are contained in a total amount of zero to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.01 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.2 - 0.5 wt.%.
[0032] According to the invention, fatty substances are understood to mean oils, fats, waxes, fatty alcohols and fatty acids.
[0033] According to the invention, a liquid oil is understood to mean a liquid compound which is organic under normal conditions and which is miscible with bidistilled water to less than 1% by weight under normal conditions.
[0034] According to the invention, fats are understood to be triacylglycerols, i.e. triesters of glycerol with fatty acids.
[0035] For the purposes of the invention, a wax is understood to be an organic compound which, under normal conditions, is less than 1% by weight soluble in bidistilled water, melts at temperatures above 40°C, and then forms a liquid with a low viscosity of 1 to 800 mPas at 20°C. According to the definition of the German Society for Fat Science, a wax is still kneadable at 20°C, solid to brittle-hard, has a coarse to fine-crystalline structure, is translucent to opaque in color, but not glassy, has a consistency and solubility that is highly temperature-dependent, and is polishable under slight pressure.
[0036] Fatty alcohols are defined as 1-alkanols with at least 4 carbon atoms, which can be linear (e.g., cetyl alcohol) or branched (e.g., 2-ethylhexan-1-ol). Fatty acids are defined as 1-carboxylic acids with at least 4 carbon atoms, which can be linear (e.g., oleic acid) or branched (e.g., 2-ethylhexanoic acid).
[0037] All information regarding the physical states of substances (solid, liquid, gaseous) in this application refers to standard conditions. "Standard conditions" for the purposes of this application are a temperature of 20°C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.
[0038] Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not considered fatty substances. Essential oils are understood, according to the invention, to be mixtures of volatile components produced by steam distillation from plant-based raw materials, such as citrus oils. Wherever reference is made to a cosmetic oil in this application, this always refers to a cosmetic oil that is neither a fragrance nor an essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions, and is immiscible with water.
[0039] The definition of a fragrance substance within the meaning of this application corresponds to the definition commonly used by those skilled in the art, as found in the RÖMPP Chemical Dictionary, as of December 2007. According to this definition, a fragrance substance is a chemical compound with an odor and / or taste that stimulates the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties are a low molecular weight of a maximum of 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water solubility and high lipid solubility, weak polarity, and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule.In order to distinguish volatile, low-molecular substances, which are usually and also in the sense of the present application not regarded and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molecular mass of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have an odor and / or taste, i.e. they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.
[0040] Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or one emulsifier.
[0041] Surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. This is particularly preferably C8-C 28 -Alkyl chain linear. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases.
[0042] When selecting surfactants suitable according to the invention, it may be preferable to use a mixture of surfactants in order to optimally adjust the stability of the oxidation colorants according to the invention.
[0043] Preferred surfactants and emulsifiers are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers, as well as mixtures thereof. These substances are described in detail below.
[0044] Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0045] Nonionic surfactants preferred according to the invention are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, further selected from addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] p , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents numbers from 1 to 6, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C8-C 24 -alkanols with 10 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, with 20 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 - C 30 -Carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0046] Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, wherein the polyethylene glycol side chains have a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 15, and particularly preferably 12. Extremely preferred is a polydimethylsiloxane modified with polyethylene glycol side chains with a degree of polymerization of 12 and a kinematic viscosity of 260 cSt at 25°C. Such a silicone surfactant is marketed by Dow Corning under the trade name Xiameter OFX 0193 Fluid (formerly: Dow Corning 193 C Fluid) with the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone.
[0047] Further particularly preferably used nonionic surfactants are selected from addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, wherein preferred divalent C10-16 alkane glycols are selected from 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-undecanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol (lauryl glycol), 1,2-tridecanediol, 1,2-tetradecanediol, 1,2-pentadecanediol and 1,2-hexadecanediol and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from addition products of 6 to 12, preferably 8 - 9 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units with 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-undecanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol (lauryl glycol), 1,2-tridecanediol, 1,2-tetradecanediol, 1,2-pentadecanediol or 1,2-hexadecanediol and mixtures thereof.A nonionic surfactant of this class which is extremely preferred according to the invention is PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, which is available, for example, under the trade name Eumulgin L from BASF.
[0048] The alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] p , in the R 4stands for an alkyl or alkenyl radical with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G stands for a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for numbers from 1 to 6, contain with G a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms which is derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are therefore alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 6. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and can take on the values p = 1 to 6 here, the value p for an industrially produced alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated value which is usually a fractional number. Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used.From an application perspective, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with a degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7 and, in particular, between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl radical R. 4 is derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 18, particularly preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, and undecyl alcohol, as well as technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides with a chain length of C8-C12 are preferred. 10 (DP = 1 to 3), which are used as foreruns in the distillative separation of technical C8-C 18 -coconut fatty alcohol and containing less than 6 wt.% C 12 -alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C 9 / 11-Oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). These are commercially available under the INCI name Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside. Also preferred is an alkyl oligoglucoside commercial product whose alkyl radical R 4 of technical C8-C 18 -coconut fatty alcohol and is available under the INCI name Coco-Glucoside. The alkyl radical R 4 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, which can be obtained as described above. Preferred are alkyl oligoglucosides based on lauryl alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
[0049] The ethoxylated C8-C24 -Alkanols have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1stands for a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8 - 24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 - 100, preferably 10 - 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 10 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.Particularly preferred are Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12 Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30 and Coceth-10, Coceth-12, Coceth-15, Coceth-20 and Coceth-30.
[0050] Sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ethoxylated with 20 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole are preferably used according to the invention. 12 - C 30 -Carboxylic acids that may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80.
[0051] Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain the above-described silicone surfactant with the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone and PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether. Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain the above-described silicone surfactant with the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, additionally PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether and at least one alkyl oligoglycoside of the formula R 4 O-[G] p , in the R 4 represents an alkyl radical having 8 to 18, preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, G represents a glucose radical and p represents numbers from 1, 1 to 2.
[0052] Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one zwitterionic and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or at least one anionic surfactant. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
[0053] Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8-C 24 -Alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -Acylsarcosine.
[0054] Suitable anionic surfactants are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body that contain a water-solubilizing anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in the molecule. The molecule may also contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups.Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono, di and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids, C8-C. 2o -alkyl sulfates and C8-C 20Alkyl ether sulfates with up to 15 oxyethyl groups, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, as well as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates. Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, C8-C 20 -Alkyl sulfates, C8-C 20 -alkyl ether sulfates and C8-C 20 Ethercarboxylic acids with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Sodium cetearyl sulfate is particularly preferred.
[0055] The total amount of surfactant or surfactants in the oxidation colorants according to the invention is preferably 0.1 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 4 wt.% and particularly preferably 1 - 3.3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
[0056] Further particularly preferred oxidation colorants are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 4 wt.% and particularly preferably 1 - 3.3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
[0057] Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one thickening polymer in a total amount of 0.2 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.8 - 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
[0058] Thickening polymers preferred according to the invention are selected from xanthan and acrylic acid polymers, and mixtures thereof. Surprisingly, it has been found that dyeings with good fastness properties can be achieved using xanthan and acrylic acid polymers. Oxidation colorants particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant according to the invention, 0.05-1.5 wt. %, preferably 0.1-1.5 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.5-1 wt. % xanthan. Acrylic acid polymers suitable according to the invention are selected from homopolymers of acrylic acid and its salts, which may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked, and from copolymers of acrylic acid (salt), which may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.
[0059] Crosslinking is carried out using polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example, divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose, or glucose. Preferred crosslinking agents are selected from pentaerythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether, trimethylolpropane allyl ether, and propylene allyl ether.
[0060] Suitable comonomers for the acrylic acid copolymers are selected from acrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl esters, non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols, the half ester of itaconic acid with Steareth-20, the ester of methacrylic acid with Steareth-20, methacrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl esters, acrylamide and methacrylamide.
[0061] Particularly preferred acrylic acid polymers according to the invention are selected from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid and its salts, uncrosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid and its salts, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols, and mixtures of these acrylic acid polymers. Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, in each case based on their weight, at least one acrylic acid polymer in a total amount of 0.2-1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4-1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5-0.7 wt.%.
[0062] Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in each case based on their weight, in a total amount of 0.2-3 wt.%, preferably 0.5-2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.8-1.5 wt.%, xanthan and at least one further thickening polymer selected from at least one acrylic acid polymer. Further particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in each case based on their weight, in a total amount of 0.2-3 wt.%, preferably 0.5-2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.8-1.5 wt.%, xanthan and at least one further thickening polymer selected from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid and its salts, uncrosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid and its salts, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols, and mixtures of these acrylic acid polymers.
[0063] Furthermore, it is preferred that oxidation colorants according to the invention and used according to the invention contain at least one cationic polymer.
[0064] The cationic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are present either in the polymer chain or, preferably, as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium, and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g., alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
[0065] The ammonium-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers include, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, and vinyl esters, e.g., vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol, or ethylene glycol. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1- to C7-alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1- to C3-alkyl groups.
[0066] Of the multitude of these polymers, the following have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient combination according to the invention: - polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Particularly preferred polymers of this type are dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymers, especially those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-7. Polyquaternium-7 is, for example, commercially available as Merquat. ® 550. Another preferred polymer of this type is the homopolymer poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), especially the homopolymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-6. Polyquaternium-6 is, for example, commercially available as Merquat ® 100. Other preferred polymers of this type are terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, acrylamide, and ammonium acrylate, especially those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-39. Polyquaternium-39 is available, for example, as the commercial product Merquat ® 3330 and Merquat ®3331. Other preferred polymers of this type are copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, especially those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-22. Polyquaternium-22 is available, for example, as the commercial product Merquat ® 280 available. - Homopolymers of the general formula -{CH2-[CR 1 COO-(CH2) m N + R 2 R 3 R 4 ]} n X - , in the R 1 = -H or -CH3, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C1-4 alkyl, C1-4 alkenyl or C1-4 hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X - is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. Among these polymers, those preferred according to the invention are those for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R 1 stands for a methyl group, R 2 , R 3 and R4 stand for methyl groups, m has the value 2.As physiologically acceptable counterions X - Examples of suitable ions include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions, and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate, and acetate ions. Methosulfates and halide ions, especially chloride, are preferred.
[0067] Further preferably suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers of A1) 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) monomers of the formula (Ia) in which X represents chloride, sulfate, methosulfate, and A2) Monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids, wherein the monomer A2 makes up 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;
[0068] A highly preferred polymer, structured as described above, is commercially available under the INCI name Polyquaternium-74.
[0069] A particularly suitable homopolymer is poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), cross-linked if desired, with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (3V Sigma) available commercially.
[0070] The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 available in stores.
[0071] Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch, or guar. Chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula GOB-N+R a R b R c A - G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose; B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene; R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 C atoms, where the total number of C atoms in R a , R b and R c preferably a maximum of 20; A - is a common counter anion, preferably chloride.
[0072] Cationic, or quaternized, celluloses are available on the market with different degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content, and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is sold under the names Polymer ® SL or olymer ® SK (Amerchol). Under the trade name Mirustyle ® CP from Croda offers another highly preferred cellulose. This is a cellulose derivatized as Trimonium and Cocodimonium Hydroxyethylcellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used both in solid form and pre-dissolved in an aqueous solution.
[0073] Other cationic celluloses are available under the names Polymer JR ® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and Polymer Quatrisoft ®LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Other commercial products include the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
[0074] Suitable cationic guar derivatives are preferably selected from compounds with the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
[0075] A suitable chitosan is, for example, produced by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, under the trade name Flonac ® A preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidone carboxylate, which is sold, for example, under the name Kytamer ® PC is distributed by Amerchol, USA. Other chitosan derivatives are available under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF, Hydagen ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 available in stores.
[0076] Finally, cationic polymers based on sugars can also be used with preference according to the invention. Examples of such compounds are cationic alkyl oligoglucosides, as shown in the following figure.
[0077] In the formula shown above, the radicals R independently of one another represent a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C6 - C30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R represents a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
[0078] The R1 radicals independently represent a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl radical. Preferably, the R1 radical is a radical selected from butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, or arachidyl. Particularly preferably, the R1 radicals are identical. Even more preferably, the R1 radicals are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol fractions of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferably, those technical fatty alcohol fractions that are of plant origin.
[0079] Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds with the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides with the names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82 are most preferred. Such compounds can be sold, for example, under the name Poly Suga ® Quat can be purchased from Colonial Chemical Inc.
[0080] The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are preferably present in a total amount of 0.01 to 6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05-4 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1-3.5 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the agent according to the invention. The invention also encompasses the use of mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides. In this case, it is preferred if one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside are present simultaneously.
[0081] Another cationic polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine. This polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.
[0082] This polymer can be purchased, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.
[0083] Polyquaternium-71 is preferably contained in an amount of 0.01 - 6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 - 4 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1 - 3.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0084] Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as those sold under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552 are offered, - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer, which is sold under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734 is distributed by Gaf Co., USA and has the INCI name Polyquaternium-11, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, - as well as the polymers known as Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain, - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, which are commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40 are offered.
[0085] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the agent according to the invention or used according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, at least one cationic polymer in a total amount of 0.01 - 2 wt.%, preferably 0.05 - 1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 0.7 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.2 - 0.5 wt.%.
[0086] In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the agent according to the invention or used according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, at least one cationic polymer selected from dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymers, in particular those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-7, poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, acrylamide and ammonium acrylate, in particular those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, in particular those with the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 - 2 wt.%, preferably 0.05 - 1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 0.7 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.2 - 0.5 wt.%.
[0087] The oxidation dyeing agent according to the invention contains as mandatory ingredients at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type.
[0088] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reactivity: developer components and coupler components. Coupler components do not produce significant coloration on their own during oxidative dyeing, but always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves.
[0089] The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances containing amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly in the form of hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, or sulfates.
[0090] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed by p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol and 4-Amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds as well as mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.
[0091] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-tolylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, and mixtures of these compounds, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts are extremely preferred.
[0092] Preferably, at least one developer component is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
[0093] Preferably, at least one coupler component is present in a total amount of 0.001 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
[0094] For the purposes of this application, the term "ready-to-use colorant" is understood to mean the mixture of all oxidation dye precursors and all oxidizing agents, optionally in combination with a suitable cosmetic carrier, e.g. an aqueous gel or cream base thickened with a thickener, and optionally in combination with at least one direct dye.
[0095] Coupler components within the meaning of the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This results in a covalent bond between the coupler and developer components. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds that carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. If the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably located in the ortho or meta position to one another.
[0096] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes: - 3-aminophenol (m-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives, - 3-aminoaniline (m-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives, - 2-aminoaniline (1,2-diaminobenzene; o-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives, - 2-aminophenol (o-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives, - naphthalene derivatives containing at least one hydroxy group, - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives, - pyridine derivatives, - pyrimidine derivatives, - monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives, - monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives, - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine, - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
[0097] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred according to the invention in this embodiment.
[0098] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3-Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophen-oxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophenyl)propan, 2,6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxy-ethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin,3-Amino-2-methyl-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
[0099] Particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 1-naphthol as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the components mentioned.
[0100] The at least one coupler component is preferably present in a total amount of 0.01 - 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 10 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 0.6 - 5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
[0101] In the context of the present invention, the following combinations of oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type are particularly preferred, whereby the amine compounds and the nitrogen heterocycles can also be present in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts: p-Toluenediamine / Resorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol; p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol; p-toluenediamine / 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol; p-toluenediamine / 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane; p-Toluenediamine / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; p-Toluylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; p-Toluylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / Resorcin; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / Resorcin; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / Resorcin; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 2-Methylresorcin; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 3-Aminophenol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 1,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propan; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxy-ethylamino)benzol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 1-Naphthol; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / Resorcin; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-Methylresorcin; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 3-Aminophenol; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole / 1-naphthol.
[0102] According to the invention, the combinations 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole / 3-aminophenol and p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol are particularly preferred. The combination 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole / 3-aminophenol is extremely preferred, especially with regard to improving washfastness.
[0103] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation, it is preferred according to the invention if further color-imparting components are contained in the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
[0104] In a further embodiment, the oxidation colorants according to the invention can additionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.
[0105] Another object of the present invention is a packaging unit (kit of parts) which, when packaged separately, comprises the following: a) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for oxidative hair coloring, containing: - at least one alkalizing agent, - at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, - at least one ether compound of xylitol selected from ethers of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers and mixtures thereof, and, - based on the weight of the oxidation colorant, zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, - wherein the oxidation colorant has a pH in the range from 8 to 11, in particular in the range from 8.5 to 10.7, particularly preferably in the range from 9 to 10.3, extraordinarily preferably 9.5 to 9.7, in each case measured at a temperature of 22 °C, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40 - 96% by weight, preferably 70-93% by weight, particularly preferably 80-90% by weight, of water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23% by weight, further preferably 2.5 to 21% by weight, particularly preferably 4 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 5 to 18% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12% by weight, and has a pH in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5-5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt% data relate in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0106] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the kit according to the invention, what has been said regarding the agents according to the invention, the oxidizing agent preparations used according to the invention and the dyeing methods according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0107] Another object of the present invention is a process for oxidative hair coloring, which comprises the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative hair coloring of keratin fibers, containing - at least one alkalizing agent, - at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, - at least one ether compound of xylitol selected from ethers of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers and mixtures thereof, and, - based on the weight of the oxidation colorant, zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, - wherein the oxidation colorant has a pH in the range from 8 to 11, in particular in the range from 8.5 to 10.7, particularly preferably in the range from 9 to 10.3, extraordinarily preferably 9.5 to 9.7, in each case measured at a temperature of 22 °C, and ii) Providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96% by weight, preferably 70-93% by weight, particularly preferably 80-90% by weight, of water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23% by weight, further preferably 2.5 to 21% by weight, particularly preferably 4 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 5 to 18% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12% by weight, and having a pH in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5-5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt% data in each case relate to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally comprising at least one cationic surfactant, iii) Mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately thereafter iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) if necessary, apply a post-treatment product to the hair and rinse if necessary, then dry.
[0108] For oxidative hair coloring processes, the agent according to the invention (M1), which contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more direct dyes, is usually mixed with an aqueous oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) to form the ready-to-use coloring agent immediately before application to the hair and then applied to the hair. The agent according to the invention (M1) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) are usually matched to one another such that, at a mixing ratio of 1:1, based on parts by weight, the finished application mixture contains an initial hydrogen peroxide concentration of 0.5-12% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, particularly preferably 3-6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the weight of the application mixture.However, it is equally possible to match the agent according to the invention (M1) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) to one another in such a way that the concentrations required in the ready-to-use oxidizing colorant (application mixture) are obtained by mixing ratios other than 1:1, for example by a weight-related mixing ratio of 1:2 or 1:3 or even 2:3.
[0109] According to the invention, preferred weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) are in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2.
[0110] For the purposes of the invention, the term “room temperature” refers to the temperature in the room in which a person usually uses a hair dye, i.e. usually a bathroom or a hair salon, where the temperature is in the range of 10 - 29 °C.
[0111] Leaving the hair-dyeing application mixture in process step iv) in the hair-dyeing processes according to the invention or preferred according to the invention can also take place at at least 30°C, preferably at 30 - 60°C, particularly preferably at 32 - 50°C, if the hair is heated, for example, with a heat cap or with a heat lamp.
[0112] The oxidizing agent composition (M2) used in dyeing kits according to the invention and preferred according to the invention as well as in dyeing processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, 40-96 wt.%, preferably 70-93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80-90 wt.%, of water.
[0113] The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used in dyeing kits according to the invention and preferred according to the invention as well as in dyeing processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention further contains, in each case based on its weight, 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, of hydrogen peroxide.
[0114] To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) has a pH in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C. Xanthan in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2)
[0115] The relatively low viscosity of preferred agents (M1) according to the invention in the range of 700-20,000 mPas, preferably 1,000-15,000 mPas, particularly preferably 3,000-13,000 mPas, extremely preferably 4,000-8,000 mPas, each measured at 20°C, is excellently suited for the handling of this agent itself (production, filling into plastic bottles (for viscosities up to 4,000 mPas) or tubes (for viscosities greater than 4,000 mPas), dosing to prepare the mixture with the oxidizing agent preparation). The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) also typically has a low viscosity in the range of 10-6,000 mPas, preferably 200-5,000 mPas, particularly preferably 1,000-4,500 mPas, each measured at 20°C. However, for application to the hair, the application mixture should have a significantly higher viscosity so that it remains on the hair for the entire exposure time (in the range of 5 - 60 minutes, preferably 30 - 45 minutes) and does not drip down.A distinction is made here as to whether the application mixture is prepared by shaking both compositions (M1) and (M2) in an application bottle, from which the application mixture is applied to the hair immediately after mixing using an application spout as a bottle attachment (bottle application), or whether the application mixture is prepared by stirring both compositions (M1) and (M2) in a bowl, from which the application mixture is applied to the hair immediately after mixing using a brush (brush application). Bottle application is particularly suitable for colorants that are sold in retail outlets with a recommendation for application by the consumer themselves. Brush application is particularly suitable for colorants that are prepared by the hairdresser in the hairdressing salon and applied to the consumer's hair.
[0116] Surprisingly, it has been found that an application mixture with a viscosity suitable for application and drip-free retention on the hair is obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing xanthan gum, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 2-3% by weight of xanthan gum, based in each case on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). The consistency of the application mixture thus achieved leads to optimal application properties, for example for brush application. The application mixtures thus obtained, especially with weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2, preferably have a viscosity in the range from 1000 to 15,000 mPas, preferably 3000 to 12.000 mPas, particularly preferably 4000 - 10000 mPas, extremely preferably 5000 - 8000 mPas, each measured at 20°C (Haake viscometer). Cationic surfactant in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2)
[0117] The relatively low viscosity of preferred agents (M1) according to the invention in the range of 700-20,000 mPas, preferably 1,000-15,000 mPas, particularly preferably 3,000-13,000 mPas, extremely preferably 4,000-8,000 mPas, each measured at 20°C, is excellently suited for the handling of this agent itself (production, filling into plastic bottles (for viscosities up to 4,000 mPas) or tubes (for viscosities greater than 4,000 mPas), dosing to prepare the mixture with the oxidizing agent preparation). The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) also typically has a low viscosity in the range of 10-6,000 mPas, preferably 200-5,000 mPas, particularly preferably 1,000-4,500 mPas, each measured at 20°C. However, for application to the hair, the application mixture should have a significantly higher viscosity so that it remains on the hair for the entire exposure time (in the range of 5 - 60 minutes, preferably 30 - 45 minutes) and does not drip down.A distinction is made here as to whether the application mixture is prepared by shaking both compositions (M1) and (M2) in an application bottle, from which the application mixture is applied to the hair immediately after mixing using an application spout as a bottle attachment (bottle application), or whether the application mixture is prepared by stirring both compositions (M1) and (M2) in a bowl, from which the application mixture is applied to the hair immediately after mixing using a brush (brush application). Bottle application is particularly suitable for colorants that are sold in retail outlets with a recommendation for application by the consumer themselves. Brush application is particularly suitable for colorants that are prepared by the hairdresser in the hairdressing salon and applied to the consumer's hair.
[0118] Surprisingly, it has been found that an application mixture with a viscosity particularly suitable for brush application is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one cationic surfactant, in particular when the agent (M1) according to the invention contains an acrylic acid polymer for thickening. The pasty consistency of the application mixture achieved with the cationic surfactant and optionally the acrylic acid polymer leads to optimal application properties, particularly for brush application. The application mixtures thus obtained, in particular with weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2, preferably have a viscosity in the range from 4500 to 25,000 mPas, preferably 5000 to 15,000 mPas, particularly preferably 7000 to 12,000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C.
[0119] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used according to the invention contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt. %, extraordinarily preferably 0.3-0.9 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Cationic surfactants are understood to be surfactants, i.e. surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants are typically composed of a hydrophobic moiety and a hydrophilic head group, with the hydrophobic moiety generally consisting of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge(s) being located in the hydrophilic head group.Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micelle concentration to form positively charged micelles.
[0120] Preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound, esterquat, and alkylamidoamine type. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Other preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, in particular, Quaternium-52, a poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), ((octadecylnitrilio)tri-2,1-ethanediyl)tris(hydroxy)phosphate (1:1) salt, which has the general structural formula (III), where x + y + z = 10.
[0121] The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 22, particularly preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred, with stearyltrimethylammonium chloride being extremely preferred. Further cationic surfactants suitable according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates. Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A compound from this group of substances suitable according to the invention is tegoamide. ®S 18 (stearamidopropyldimethylamine). Esterquats are substances that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart, and Armocare.
[0122] C10-C22-alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides have proven to be particularly suitable with regard to optimal application properties and optimal dyeing results. Particularly preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt. %, extraordinarily preferably 0.3-0.9 wt. %, based in each case on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), wherein preferably at least one surfactant selected from C10-C22-alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in particular selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride as well as mixtures of these surfactants, is present. Extraordinarily preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain stearyltrimethylammonium chloride in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt.-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably from 0.3 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0123] A further preferred packaging unit according to the invention (kit of parts) is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), but no polymer with a degree of polymerization of at least 200 and no polymer with a molecular weight of 10,000 Daltons or higher.
[0124] It has been found that the thickening by means of the interaction between the acrylic acid polymer in the agent according to the invention and the cationic surfactant in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) is sufficient and cannot be further increased or even impaired in its application properties by the presence of a polymer with a degree of polymerization of at least 200 or a polymer with a molecular weight of 10,000 Daltons or higher.
[0125] A further preferred packaging unit according to the invention (kit of parts) is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), but no polymer with a degree of polymerization of at least 200 and no polymer with a molecular weight of 10,000 Daltons or higher.
[0126] A preferred method for oxidative hair coloring according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), but no polymer with a degree of polymerization of at least 200 and no polymer with a molecular weight of 10,000 Daltons or higher.
[0127] Another preferred method for oxidative hair coloring according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), but no polymer with a degree of polymerization of at least 200 and no polymer with a molecular weight of 10,000 Daltons or higher.
[0128] Surprisingly, it has been found that an application mixture with a viscosity particularly suitable for bottle application is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one copolymer selected from crosslinked acrylic acid / acrylic acid C1-C6 alkyl ester copolymers and crosslinked methacrylic acid / acrylic acid C1-C6 alkyl ester copolymers, preferably in a total amount of 0.1-7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5-6 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1-4.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Mixing the agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention with such an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) leads to the desired increase in viscosity.The resulting medium-viscosity consistency of the application mixture leads to optimal application properties, especially for bottle application.
[0129] The oxidation colorant according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) to form a ready-to-use agent containing at least one oxidizing agent. Preferred oxidizing agents are selected from peroxo compounds, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, solid addition compounds of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H2O2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide, and melamine peroxide, further selected from diammonium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as ammonium persulfate), disodium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as sodium persulfate), and dipotassium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as potassium persulfate), as well as mixtures of these oxidizing agents. Oxidizing agents used with particular preference according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions.The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined, on the one hand, by legal requirements and, on the other hand, by the desired effect; 6 to 12 percent by weight solutions in water are preferred. Oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their preparation contains, based on its weight, 1 to 24 percent by weight, preferably 4 to 10 percent by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 6 percent by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2).
[0130] For oxidative hair coloring processes, the colorant according to the invention, which contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more direct dyes, is usually mixed with an aqueous oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) to form the ready-to-use agent shortly before application to the hair and then applied to the hair. The colorant according to the invention (M1) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) are usually matched to one another such that, at a mixing ratio of 1 to 1, based on parts by weight, the hair colorant has an initial hydrogen peroxide concentration of 0.5-12% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, particularly preferably 3-6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), based on the weight of the oxidizing agent.However, it is equally possible to match the colorant (M1) according to the invention and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) to one another in such a way that the concentrations required in the ready-to-use oxidizing colorant are obtained by mixing ratios other than 1:1, for example by a weight-based mixing ratio of 1:2 or 1:3 or even 2:3. Weight-based mixing ratios (M1):(M2) preferred according to the invention are in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2. The application mixtures of colorant (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention and oxidizing agent-containing composition (M2) preferably have a pH of 8 to 10.5, in particular in the range from 8.5 to 10.2, particularly preferably in the range from 9.2 to 9.8, in each case measured at a temperature of 22 °C.
[0131] For coloring that requires a significant lightening of very dark hair, the use of hydrogen peroxide or its adducts with organic or inorganic compounds is often insufficient. In these cases, a combination of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts (persulfate salts) is usually used. Preferred persulfate salts are ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxydisulfate, sodium peroxydisulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] The at least one persulfate salt is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 25 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 1 to 15 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
[0133] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said regarding the agents according to the invention and the oxidizing agent preparations used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis. Examples
[0134] 1. The following dyes or compositions (M1) were prepared (gels, all amounts in wt%): inventive staining gel (M1-1) Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0,70 Propandiol-1,2 2,00 Xanthan Gum 0,10 Natriumsulfit 0,40 1-Hydroxyethan-1,1-diphosphonsäure (Etidronsäure) 0,06 Monoethanolamin 5,00 Toluen-2,5-Diaminsulfat 1,65 4-Amino-3-Methylphenol (4-Amino-m-Cresol) 0,21 2-Methylresorcin 0,33 Resorcin 0,56 m-Aminophenol 0,18 2-Amino-6-Chloro-4-Nitrophenol 0,10 Niacinamid 0,10 Panthenol 0,10 Xylitylglucosid 0,21 Anhydroxylitol 0,15 PEG-12 0,07 PEG-12 Dimethicone 0,80 PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether 0,30 Parfum 0,15 Wasser, entmineralisiert 86,83 inventive staining gel (M1-2) 1-Hydroxyethan-1,1-diphosphonsäure (Etidronsäure) 0,12 Schwefelsäure 0,50 Carbomer 0,50 Propandiol-1,2 5,20 Xanthan Gum 1,00 Niacinamid 0,15 Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract 0,10 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 0,01 Anhydroxylitol 0,29 Xylityl Glucoside 0,43 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside 0,30 Coco-Glucoside 0,80 Polyquaternium-39 0,10 Natriumsulfit 0,40 Kaliumhydroxid 0,25 Toluen-2,5-Diaminsulfat 0,22 4-Amino-3-Methylphenol, (4-Amino-m-Cresol) 0,30 2-Methylresorcin 0,13 Resorcin 0,20 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin 0,06 2-Amino-6-chlor-4-nitrophenol 0,01 Sodium Silicate 40 / 42 0,20 PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether 2,00 Parfum 0,90 Wasser, entmineralisiert 85,83
[0135] The following oxidation compositions (M2) were prepared (all amounts in wt%): Developer gel (M2-1) (6 wt% H2O2) Natriumhydroxid 0,33 2,6-Dicarboxypyridin 0,10 Dinatriumpyrophosphat 0,03 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (etidronic acid) 0,90 Xanthan Gum 2,00 Propane-1,2-diol 4,00 hydrogen peroxide 6,00 demineralized water 86,64 Developer emulsion (M2-2) (4 wt% H2O2) Developers 4% Sodium benzoate 0,04 2,6-Dicarboxypyridine 0,10 Disodium pyrophosphate 0,10 Potassium hydroxide 0,15 Propanediol-1,2 1,50 Etidronic acid 0,24 Paraffinum Liquidum 0,30 Isopropyl alcohol 0,08 Steartrimonium Chloride 0,31 Ceteareth-20 1,00 Cetearyl Alcohol 3,40 hydrogen peroxide 4,00 Perfume 0,10 demineralized water 88,68 2. Coloring
[0136] To produce ready-to-use oxidative colorants, the cosmetic agents (M1-1) or (M1-2) were mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 with one of the oxidizing agent preparations (M2-1) or (M2-2).
[0137] The oxidative dyes prepared in this way were applied in a defined amount (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of yak hair) to strands of yak hair (12 strands per oxidative dye) and left on the strands for a contact time of 30 minutes at 32°C. The remaining dyes were then rinsed out of the strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes. The strands were first towel-dried and then blow-dried.
[0138] Intensely colored strands were obtained in each case. 3. Measurement of the hair fiber surface profile using confocal microscopy Staining gels (M1-3) according to the invention (M1-4) Comparative composition 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid 0,12 0,12 sulfuric acid 0,50 0,50 Carbomer 0,50 0,50 Propanediol-1,2 5,20 5,20 Xanthan Gum 1,00 1,00 Niacinamide 0,15 0,15 Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract 0,10 0,10 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 0,01 0,01 Anhydroxylitol 0,29 - Xylityl Glucoside 0,43 - Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside 0,30 0,30 Coco-Glucoside 0,80 0,80 Polyquaternium-39 0,10 0,10 Sodium sulfite 0,40 0,40 Potassium hydroxide 0,25 0,25 Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate 0,79 0,79 2-methylresorcinol 0,12 0,12 Resorcin 0,16 0,16 4-Chlororesorcinol 0,14 0,14 m-Aminophenol 0,03 0,03 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol 0,02 0,02 Sodium Silicate 40 / 42 0,20 0,20 PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether 2,00 2,00 Perfume 0,90 0,90 demineralized water 85,49 86,21 average tread depth of the hair 0,18 µm 0,30 µm
[0139] To produce ready-to-use oxidative colorants, the cosmetic agents (M1-3) and (M1-4) were mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2-1) in a weight ratio of 1:1.
[0140] The oxidative dyes produced in this way were each applied to yak hair strands in a defined amount (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of yak hair). The remaining dyes were then rinsed out of the hair strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes, the strands were first dried with a towel and then blow-dried.
[0141] A statistically significant number of individual hair fibers were sampled from the treated strands. The profile of each fiber was measured using confocal microscopy. For this purpose, the fiber cross-sectional profile (in µm) was recorded at seven points along the fiber's longitudinal axis.
[0142] This determines the depth of cuticle tread between the individual scales of the hair cuticle. The smaller the depth of cuticle tread between the individual scales, the smoother and less damaged the fiber.
[0143] Using this method, an average profile depth of 0.18 µm was determined for hair dyed with the oxidation dye according to the invention (M1-3), and an average profile depth of 0.30 µm for hair dyed with the comparison oxidation dye (M1-4). The values were statistically significant.
[0144] Oxidation dyes according to the invention thus significantly reduce hair damage.
Claims
[1] Oxidation dyeing agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, comprising at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, at least one ether compound of xylitol and, based on the weight of the oxidation dyeing agent, zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, wherein the oxidation dyeing agent has a pH in the range of 8 to 11, measured at a temperature of 22 °C, characterized by that the at least one ether compound of xylitol is selected from ethers of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers and from mixtures thereof. [2] Oxidation coloring agent according to claim 1, characterized by that the mono- or oligosaccharide etherified with xylitol is selected from glucose and glucose oligomers with 2 to 5 glucose units. [3] Oxidation coloring agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by that the ether of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide is selected from xylitylmonoglucoside, xylityloligoglucoside with 2, 3, 4 or 5 consecutive glucose units, and mixtures thereof. [4] Oxidation coloring agent according to claim 1, characterized by that the at least one intramolecular xylitol ether is selected from 1,4-anhydroxylitol and 1,5-anhydroxylitol and mixtures thereof. [5] Oxidation coloring agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by a total content of at least one ether compound of xylitol of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant. [6] Oxidation coloring agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by that fatty substances are present in a total amount of zero to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidation coloring agent. [7] Oxidation coloring agent according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized by that at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide and alkanolamines is contained in a total amount of 2 - 8 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant. [8] Oxidation coloring agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by that it does not contain ammonia or ammonium hydroxide. [9] Oxidation coloring agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by that at least one surfactant is included. [10] Oxidation coloring agent according to claim 9, characterized by that at least one surfactant is contained in a total amount of 0.1 - 5 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant. [11] Oxidation coloring agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by that water is contained in a total amount of 68 - 93 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant. [12] Oxidation coloring agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized by that at least one thickening polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.2 - 3 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidation colorant. [13] Process for oxidative hair coloring, comprising the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative hair coloring of keratin fibers according to one of claims 1 to 12, containing - at least one alkalizing agent, - at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, - at least one ether compound of xylitol and, - based on the weight of the oxidation colorant, zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, - wherein the oxidation colorant has a pH in the range of 8 to 11, measured at a temperature of 22 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96% by weight of water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23% by weight, and having a pH in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, measured at 20°C, wherein the wt% data relate in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), iii) Mixing the cosmetic product (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), immediately thereafter iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a period of 1 to 60 minutes at room temperature or at 30 - 60°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) if necessary, apply a post-treatment product to the hair and, if necessary, rinse and then dry, characterized bythat the at least one ether compound of xylitol is selected from ethers of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers and from mixtures thereof. [14] Packaging unit (kit of parts) which, packaged separately, comprises: a) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for oxidative hair coloring according to one of claims 1 to 12 and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) which contains 40-96% by weight of water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23% by weight and has a pH in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, measured at 20°C, wherein the wt% data relate in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
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