Cosmetic multi-component active ingredient complex to support the skin barrier, immune balance and microbiome modulation.

Abstract

Cosmetic multi-component active ingredient complex, functionally comprising at least one active ingredient from each of the following seven classes of active ingredients: • microbiome-modulating substances, • cell-protecting substances, • immunomodulating substances, • barrier-stabilizing substances, • antioxidant substances, • hydrating substances, • Soothing ingredients for sensitive skin, where the assignment of an active ingredient is made exclusively according to the primary cosmetic function defined in the description and multiple assignments are excluded.

Description

1. Title of the invention

[0001] Cosmetic multi-component active ingredient complex to support the skin barrier, immune balance and microbiome modulation. 2. Technical field

[0002] The invention relates to the field of cosmetic skin care and in particular to a multi-component active ingredient complex that combines seven functional classes of active ingredients. 3. Background of the invention

[0003] Sensitive or stressed skin typically exhibits several combined functional deficiencies, including disturbances in microbial balance, increased susceptibility to cellular stress, dysregulated immune reactivity, barrier instability, inflammatory irritation reactions, lack of moisture, and increased exposure to oxidative stress. 4. Object of the invention

[0004] Provision of a cosmetic active ingredient complex with seven clearly defined classes of active ingredients, including unambiguous class assignment and high technical robustness.

[0005] The invention does not aim to establish a single active ingredient as the dominant component, but rather to systematically combine functionally distinct classes of active ingredients. 5. Disclosure of the invention 5.1 Mandatory components of the invention (basic system)

[0006] The active ingredient complex necessarily includes at least one active ingredient from each of the following three core classes, which form the functional basis of the invention: A) Microbiome-modulating substances: This category includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function lies in the targeted modulation, stabilization, or support of the cutaneous microbiome. The active ingredients in this class contribute to promoting a balanced microbial equilibrium of the skin and thus indirectly support the skin barrier, skin comfort, and resilience of sensitive or stressed skin. Classification in this category is based solely on the primary microbiome-related effect. This includes active ingredients with a clearly defined microbial origin and a pre- or postbiotic structure. Secondary effects such as hydration, film formation, or sensory smoothing do not lead to reclassification, provided the influence on the The skin microbiome represents the predominant mechanism of action. In preferred embodiments, the microbiome-modulating component comprises a postbiotic agent, in particular a bacterial or microbial ferment or lysate. This class does not include substances whose primary function is a purely occlusive, film-forming, structure-forming or preserving effect, without a targeted modulation of the skin microbiome, even if these may secondarily show microbiome-friendly effects. Examples of suitable materials can be found in Chapter 5.4. The binding technical definition is set out in Chapter 5.3. B) Cell-protecting substances: This class comprises active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to protect epidermal cells from physical, chemical, or environmental stressors. The active ingredients in this class contribute in particular to increasing cellular stress resilience, stabilizing cellular structures, and protecting against stress-induced skin dysfunctions, without primarily having antioxidant or immunomodulatory effects. Classification in this category is based solely on the primary cell-protecting effect in a cosmetic context. Secondary effects such as hydration, barrier stabilization, or soothing properties do not lead to reclassification, provided that the protection of cellular structures and functions constitutes the predominant mechanism of action. Ectoin, hydroxyectoin, or functional derivatives thereof are preferred representatives of the cell-protecting class, without fundamentally excluding other functionally equivalent cell-protecting substances.The concentration is typically in the range of 0.05–2%. Substances whose primary effect is immunomodulatory, antioxidant, or pharmaceutical-like are not included in this class, even if they may exhibit secondary cell-protective effects. C) Immunomodulating substances: This class comprises active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function lies in modulating the cutaneous immune response, particularly by influencing immune-relevant signaling pathways in the skin, stabilizing skin reactivity, and reducing excessive or dysregulated immune reactions in a cosmetic context. Active ingredients in this class contribute to supporting a balanced skin response in sensitive, stressed, or reactive skin without exerting a systemic, pharmacological immune effect. The classification into this category is based solely on the primary immunomodulatory effect. Secondary effects such as soothing, barrier stabilization, or hydration do not lead to a reclassification, provided that the modulation of immunological skin processes constitutes the predominant mechanism of action. Beta-glucan in cosmetically suitable form, including all INCI-compliant variants, regardless of source, molecular weight, or manufacturing process, as well as beta-glucan derivatives with retained immunomodulatory function, represent preferred representatives of the immunomodulatory class, particularly due to their clear functional applicability in the cosmetic context. The concentration is typically in the range of 0.05–2%. This class does not include substances whose primary effect is cell-protective, antioxidant, calming or barrier-stabilizing, as well as substances with pharmaceutical-like, systemic or drug-like immune effects, even if these may secondarily show immune-associated effects.

[0007] In preferred embodiments, the three aforementioned classes of active ingredients constitute a particularly suitable functional foundation for the seven-stage active ingredient complex. These classes are not to be understood as hierarchically superior, but rather as typical implementations of the overall system that have proven particularly effective in practice. 5.2 Further functional compulsory classes (four additional classes)

[0008] In addition, the active ingredient complex includes at least one substance from each of the following four functional classes: D) Barrier-stabilizing substances: This category includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to strengthen, stabilize, or restore the skin barrier. In particular, the active ingredients in this class support the integrity of the epidermal lipid structure, reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and contribute to improving the resilience of sensitive or barrier-damaged skin to external stressors. The classification into this category is based solely on the primary barrier-stabilizing effect in a cosmetic context. Secondary effects such as hydration, soothing properties, or antimicrobial effects do not lead to a reclassification, provided that strengthening the skin barrier is the predominant mechanism of action. Substances whose primary function is an occlusive, film-forming or purely sensory effect, without actively contributing to the restoration or stabilization of the epidermal barrier, are not included in this class. E) Antioxidants: This category includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). The active ingredients in this class contribute to interrupting oxidative chain reactions, reducing oxidatively induced cell and lipid damage, and supporting the skin's natural healing process. Contributes to skin integrity in a cosmetic context without primarily having an immunomodulatory or cell-protective effect in the sense of osmotic or structural stabilization. The classification into this category is based solely on the primary antioxidant effect. Secondary effects such as soothing, hydration, or barrier stabilization do not lead to a reclassification, provided that the neutralization or buffering of oxidative processes constitutes the predominant mechanism of action. This class does not include substances with a primarily strong anti-inflammatory, pharmaceutical or drug-like mode of action, as well as highly potent or irritant antioxidants that are unsuitable for sensitive skin, even if they possess antioxidant properties. F) Hydrating agents: This class includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to increase and maintain the skin's moisture content and to support the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). In particular, these active ingredients contribute to improving skin elasticity, reducing transepidermal water loss, and stabilizing skin comfort without having an exfoliating or cell turnover-promoting effect. The classification into this category is based solely on the primary hydrating effect in a cosmetic context. Secondary effects such as mild barrier stabilization, osmotic cell protection, or sensory smoothing do not lead to a reclassification, provided that moisture retention and NMF support constitute the predominant mechanism of action. Not included in this class are substances whose primary function is a keratolytic, exfoliating or pH-modifying effect, especially alpha or beta hydroxy acids, even if these may have secondary hydrating effects. G) Soothing substances for sensitive skin: includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to reduce irritative reactions of sensitive or reactive skin, to lessen visible redness and / or to improve skin comfort through a soothing, anti-irritant or irritation-relieving effect. This class is particularly aimed at applications involving sensitive, irritated or reactive skin, including conditions of increased sensitivity to irritants due to external or endogenous stress factors. Not included in this class are substances whose primary mode of action is similar to pharmaceuticals, strongly anti-inflammatory, enzyme-inhibiting or immunomodulating, and whose main function is not a mild, cosmetic soothing of sensitive skin, even if they may exhibit secondary soothing effects.

[0009] The other functional classes are equivalent components of the active ingredient complex and each contributes independently to the overall effect. The active ingredient complex is only considered complete if it contains at least one suitable active ingredient from each of the seven defined classes.

[0010] Examples of suitable substances for each class, as well as borderline cases, can be found in Chapter 5.4. 5.3 Normative rule for unambiguous class assignment 1. Each active ingredient is assigned exclusively to the functional class whose primary cosmetic function it fulfills according to its recognized INCI-based categorization. Multiple assignments are excluded. 2. Microbiome-modulating substances: An active ingredient belongs to the microbiome-modulating class only if its complete INCI name clearly indicates a defined microbial origin or if it consists of unambiguously pre- or postbiotic structures. Plant ferments, mixed ferments, and non-specific ferment filtrates are explicitly excluded. 3. Active ingredients whose cosmetic effect is nonspecific or multifunctional, or which cannot be clearly assigned to one of the seven mechanisms, are considered complementary substances. They do not fulfill any mechanism and cannot replace a mandatory functional class. 5. Trehalose can be used as a moisture-binding or structure-supporting additive. However, trehalose is not considered a cell-protecting agent within the meaning of the invention and cannot fulfill or replace the class of cell-protecting substances that is covered in particular by ectoine, hydroxyectoine, or functional ectoine derivatives. 6. PHA acids – including gluconolactone and lactobionic acid – can be used as complementary cosmetic excipients in the formulations, particularly for hydration or to improve skin comfort. However, they are NOT considered part of any of the seven defined functional mechanisms of the invention and do not replace the microbiome class, nor the cell-protecting, immunomodulatory, antioxidant, or other mandatory classes. Their presence therefore does not fulfill any mechanism and does not replace any functional class of the active ingredient system. 7. Peptides, including signaling, enzyme-inhibiting, or structure-modifying peptides, as well as peptide-like active ingredients or amino acid-based signaling agents, are not the subject of the present invention. This particularly includes active ingredients with a primary biological signaling effect on cellular regulatory mechanisms, fibroblast activity, or collagen-related signaling pathways, such as those typically used in anti-aging or structure-modifying cosmetic compositions. The distinction is made, irrespective of the formal chemical classification of a substance, solely on the basis of its primary cosmetic function and its principal mechanism of action. 5.4 Substance categorization to clarify class assignment (not exhaustive) 5.4.1 True microbiome-modulating substances

[0011] Definition: Active ingredients with a clearly defined microbial origin or pre- / postbiotic structure. • Bifida ferment lysate • Lactobacillus ferment lysates • Streptococcus thermophilus ferment • Lactococcus ferment lysates • Bacillus ferment • Saccharomyces ferment lysates • Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharides • Inulin • Galacto-oligosaccharides (GOS) • Xylo-oligosaccharides (XOS) 5.4.2 Substances that may not be classified as microbiome-modulating

[0012] Definition: Substances without a defined microbial origin or without pre- / postbiotic properties • Fermented Plant Extract • Ferment filtrates (unspecified) • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrates • Kombucha / Black Tea Ferment • Rice Ferment Filtrate • Saccharomyces filtrate 5.4.3 Borderline substances with primary assignment to other classes

[0013] Definition: Substances that are not of microbial origin and whose primary cosmetic function can be clearly assigned to another functional class. 5.4.3.1 Soothing substances for sensitive skin • Panthenol • Allantoin • Centella asiatica and its derived ingredients (e.g. Asiaticosides, Asiatic Acid) • Bisabolol • Glycyrrhiza glabra (e.g. extracts) • Chamomilla recutita (e.g. extracts) • Calendula officinalis (standardized, skin-compatible extracts) • Aloe barbadensis (e.g. leaf juice or extracts) • Madecassoside 5.4.3.2 Hydrating substances • Betaine • Urea • Sodium PCA • Glycerin • Hyaluronic acids • Trehalose • Erythritol • Diglycerol • Glyceryl Glucoside • functional derivatives of the aforementioned substances 5.4.3.3 Barrier stabilizers • Ceramides (NP / AP / EOP / EOS / NG) • Cholesterol • Phytosterol • Phytosphingosine and functional derivatives thereof • Sphingolipid precursors • Free fatty acids of the skin barrier (e.g. linoleic acid) • Lipid complexes with skin-identical composition • barrier-stabilizing derivatives of the aforementioned substances 5.4.3.4 Antioxidants • Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) • Tocopherol • Tocopheryl Acetate • Ascorbyl derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) • Mild polyphenolic compounds in cosmetically compatible dosages 5.5 Technical delimitation

[0014] The present invention is technically distinct from purely formulation-based cosmetic systems that combine active ingredients without a functional structure or mechanistic relationship. The invention defines a mechanistically based framework consisting of seven clearly defined classes of active ingredients, applicable regardless of specific formulations, concentrations, or manufacturing processes. It is particularly distinct from systems that do not employ a consistent, function-based allocation of active ingredients and therefore do not provide a reproducible technical teaching.

[0015] The technical teaching of the invention lies not in the prioritization of individual classes of active ingredients, but in the consistent combination of all defined classes within a function-based system. 6. Exclusions

[0016] To ensure the functional integrity of the active ingredient complex, the invention does not include any of the following groups of substances or substances: • Retinoids, including retinol, retinyl esters or retinoic acid derivatives; • Retinoid-like substances, including bakuchiol and functionally comparable compounds with cell turnover-stimulating or retinoid-like effects; • AHA acids, especially glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid; • BHA acids, especially salicylic acid; • Astaxanthin, lycopene or other highly specialized carotenoid antioxidants that cannot be assigned to the defined antioxidant class of the invention; • Substances with a primarily neuromodulatory, nerve-mediated or endocannabinoid-like mode of action, especially those with a main pain- or itch-modulating effect; • Substances with a primarily strong antioxidant effect that, due to their chemical structure, pH dependence or high efficacy, have an increased potential for irritation or are typically used in highly concentrated anti-aging or acid formulations; • Substances with a primarily strong antioxidant effect from the group of highly active polyphenols, in particular isolated catechins and comparable special antioxidants, which may have an increased potential for irritation due to their high efficacy, formulation dependence or stability requirements;

[0017] These exclusions serve to ensure that all active ingredients can be clearly assigned to one of the functional classes of the invention and that no substances are used that would dilute the technical teaching or impair the functional classifiability. 7. Advantages of the invention

[0018] The structured seven-class system enables clear classification and reduces misinterpretations in cosmetic formulation development. 8. Scope of application

[0019] The active ingredient complex is suitable for sensitive, irritated, dry or environmentally stressed skin conditions. 9. Dosage forms

[0020] The active ingredient complex can be used in creams, emulsions, lotions, serums, gel creams, fluids, hydrodispersions, concentrates or encapsulated systems.

Claims

[1] Cosmetic multi-component active ingredient complex, functionally comprising at least one active ingredient from each of the following seven classes of active ingredients: • microbiome-modulating substances, • cell-protecting substances, • immunomodulating substances, • barrier-stabilizing substances, • antioxidant substances, • hydrating substances, • Soothing ingredients for sensitive skin, where the assignment of an active ingredient is made exclusively according to the primary cosmetic function defined in the description and multiple assignments are excluded. [2] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the microbiome-modulating substance is selected from prebiotic, postbiotic or clearly characterized microbial ferments, excluding in particular not clearly specified ferment filtrates such as kombucha ferments, galactomyces ferments, rice ferment filtrates, saccharomyces filtrates or other non-specific biological filtrates. [3] Active ingredient complex according to claim 2, wherein the microbiome-modulating substance is selected from: Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Bacillus Ferment, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharides, Inulin, Fructooligosaccharides, Galacto-oligosaccharides (GOS), Xylo-oligosaccharides (XOS) or Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate. [4] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the cell-protecting substance is selected from ectoin, hydroxyectoin or functional derivatives thereof. [5] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the immunomodulating substance is selected from beta-glucan including all INCI-compliant variants regardless of source, molecular weight or manufacture. [6] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the barrier-stabilizing substance is selected from ceramides, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, phytosterol or skin-identical lipid complexes. [7] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the antioxidant substance is selected from tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10) or cosmetically suitable ascorbyl derivatives. [8] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the hydrating substance is selected from glycerin, hyaluronic acids, sodium PCA, urea or betaine. [9] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the soothing substance for sensitive skin is selected from panthenol, allantoin, centella asiatica, chamomilla recutita, glycyrrhiza glabra, aloe barbadensis, bisabolol, calendula officinalis or madecassoside. [10] Cosmetic formulation comprising an active ingredient complex according to any one of claims 1-9, wherein the formulation is selected from creams, lotions, emulsions, serums, fluids, gel creams, hydrodispersions or liposomal systems. [11] Use of an active ingredient complex according to any one of claims 1-9 for cosmetic support of sensitive, irritated or barrier-weakened skin by one or more of the following effects: • Microbiome modulation or rebalancing, • Increased cellular stress resilience, • Reduction of irritative skin reactions, • Improvement of the epidermal barrier function, • Protection against oxidative stress, • Improved hydration, • Reduction of visible redness or inflammatory irritation reactions. [12] Active ingredient complex according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by that the complex is free from the following groups of substances or substances: • Retinoids, including retinol, retinyl esters and retinoic acid derivatives; • AHA acids, including glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid; • BHA acids, especially salicylic acid; • highly specialized carotenoid antioxidants, including astaxanthin and lycopene, which cannot be assigned to any of the defined functional classes of the active ingredient complex.