COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING ZAMZAM WATER

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of skincare and aims in particular to improve skin hydration. It specifically concerns the use of Zamzam spring water in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for its anti-aging and moisturizing effects on the skin, as well as for preventing skin sagging. STATE OF PRIOR ART

[0002] Cosmetic formulas such as water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) creams, ointments (O / W), lotions, and gels consist of an aqueous phase, and / or without an emulsifier, and / or without an oily phase, and / or without a gelling agent, or are available in aerosol form. The purpose of cosmetic formulas is to hydrate, cleanse, improve the feel and appearance of the skin, and enhance the penetration of any active ingredients.

[0003] The skin is the largest organ in the human body and represents 10% of body mass. It protects the body against exogenous factors (pollution, sun, cold), against endogenous water loss and against microbes, it helps regulate body temperature and it allows the sensations of touch, heat and cold.

[0004] The skin is made up of three compartments: the hypodermis, the dermis, and the epidermis. The epidermis is a semi-permeable epithelial tissue. It is the outermost and thinnest layer of the skin, very resistant, keratinized, and avascular. It is itself divided into five layers. 1- The stratum corneum (SC for stratum corneum ), composed of corneocytes. 2- the clear layer (SL for Stratum lucidum ), which corresponds to a transition phase between the granular layer and the stratum corneum. 3- the granular layer (SG for Stratum granulosum) where keratinization of keratinocytes begins (which develop into corneocytes). 4- the spinous layer (SS for Stratum spinosum ) or squamous epithelium. 5- the basal layer (SB for Basal stratum ), the deepest layer of the epidermis. It ensures the continuous regeneration of the skin through cell division: the cells produced gradually migrate towards the upper layers, undergoing various mutations.

[0005] The scala has a relatively simple overall structure, with cells called corneocytes connected by desmosomes, which are areas of cell adhesion or connection zones. The entire structure is permeated by a lipid matrix that fills the intercellular space. These cell layers and their connections represent between 75 and 80% of the scala's volume. The remaining 20-25% consists of the lipid matrix. The total thickness of the sc is estimated at 15-20 µm.

[0006] In a pathophysiological situation accompanied by a defect in water adsorption and barrier function (age, hormonal status, skin diseases), the skin's ability to initiate an adaptive response to a disturbance is reduced, or even nonexistent, and must therefore be compensated for. Skin dryness is a common phenomenon in various pathophysiological dysfunctions. Skin hydration plays a dominant role in cosmetics and dermatology. Signs of dry skin include skin that is often wrinkled, hard, and rough, and tends to flake. Dehydrated skin is skin that has lost its elasticity. Furthermore, dry skin, except in cases of disease, is often synonymous with skin aging. Other factors contributing to skin dehydration include climatic effects and sun exposure.

[0007] In the dermis, some water is present in gel form, bound to numerous hydrophilic macromolecules. Despite the high capacity of these molecules to bind water, some water remains mobile and diffuses into the epidermis, which serves as the first line of defense against the external environment. Three types of water are present in the skin: unbound water (UBW), partially bound water (PBW), and fully bound water (FBW). Water moves between these three forms to establish equilibrium. The majority of dermal water is fully bound. Consequently, a decreasing gradient exists between the highly hydrated dermis and the epidermis, becoming more pronounced between the deepest epidermal layers and the subcutaneous tissue (SC). In particular, while all the living layers of the epidermis, the SB, SS and SG, exhibit a high level of hydration, on the order of 70%, at equal weight, a sharp drop in hydration follows the transition between SG and SC.At this point, the hydration level rises to 30% and then falls to approximately 15% in the uppermost layers. Water movement contributes to the proper functioning of the subsurface through a continuous water supply.

[0008] The skin is covered by a lipid layer (nourished primarily by sebum) that acts as a barrier against both external aggressors and water loss. If this lipid barrier is weakened, water evaporation (or transepidermal water loss) increases. Therefore, strengthening the lipid barrier is important for skin hydration and preventing aging. Disruption of the skin barrier is one of the manifestations of atopic or secondary dermatitis. Under normal physiological conditions, ceramides, along with fatty acids and cholesterol, form an optimally organized network that ensures a moderate transepidermal water flow.In general, quantitative and / or qualitative changes in any lipid of these three classes result in abnormalities of the skin barrier characterized by an increase in Insensible Water Loss (IWL) as well as supramolecular organizational changes in the extracellular lipid matrix.

[0009] In general, the biomechanical drying stress of the stratum corneum (SC) is due to the loss of both extracellular fluid (ECF) and extracellular lipids (ECL), and it depends primarily on the ECF fraction. This fraction is located within the stratum corneum components and acts as a lubricant. ECF allows SC molecules to move freely relative to one another, which significantly increases tissue elasticity.

[0010] The water-lipid interaction is likely produced with the polar heads of the lipids. Thus, it could lead to a modification of the conformation of the hydrocarbon chains and in particular their supramolecular organization.

[0011] Two main types of moisturizing agents are commonly used. Occlusive or film-forming agents counteract dehydration by creating an oily film on the skin's surface, thus limiting hydration. These are all lipids or hydrocarbons. The most commonly used are petrolatum, paraffin oil, perhydrosqualene, silicone oils, animal and vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, and waxes (shea butter, lanolin, etc.). These products are not used alone but in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. The other moisturizing agents are highly hygroscopic humectants, which have a strong affinity for water. These include the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) or complexes composed of their most active components, notably sodium lactate, sodium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and urea.Polyols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, or propylene glycol, are also used as humectants. In addition to these two major types, there are skin barrier modulators. These molecules change the conformation and organization of skin lipids, giving them greater compactness. Protein structure and skin lipid barrier compactness are directly linked to variations in EPL (R. Vyumvuhore, Doctoral Thesis, University of Paris-Sud, 2013).

[0012] The application of hydrating agents and the limitation of transepidermal water loss are the two main approaches to maintaining and strengthening the skin barrier and, consequently, the overall health of the skin. New hydrating agents and / or those capable of reducing transepidermal water loss are therefore of great interest in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields, particularly in dermatology.

[0013] The consequences of poor skin hydration, often associated with age-related changes such as wrinkles and fine lines, and redness, which have multiple causes, are an increasingly common reason for consultations at aesthetic clinics or dermatology practices. They affect almost everyone, and their frequency is highest from the age of 40, and especially after 60.

[0014] There is therefore a real need to be able to prevent, reduce or treat this lack of skin hydration, and therefore these alterations in the appearance of the skin linked to lack of hydration, and also often linked to age, in particular to prevent the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin, and / or reduce wrinkles and / or fine lines of wrinkled skin, and / or prevent skin sagging, and / or reduce skin sagging, and / or prevent and / or reduce skin redness.

[0015] Document EP 1 166 762 A1 describes a cosmetic composition comprising mineral water used for skin hydration. In this document, the water used has sodium concentrations ranging from 1-10 mg / L, potassium concentrations from 0.1-5 mg / L, and calcium concentrations from 30-150 mg / L.

[0016] The Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly demonstrated that the use of spring water with a sodium concentration of between approximately 85 mg / L and approximately 150 mg / L and a potassium concentration of between approximately 35 and approximately 60 mg / L, in particular water from the Zamzam spring, for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, made it possible, when applied topically to the skin of subjects, to observe a significant increase in hydration. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Thus, a first object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use for moisturizing the skin of a cosmetic composition intended for topical application on the skin, said composition comprising spring water comprising: - sodium in a concentration between 85 mg / L and 150 mg / L, and potassium in a concentration between 35 and 60 mg / L; - calcium, in a concentration between 50 and 230 mg / L; said spring water having a mineralization between 650 mg / L and 1100 mg / L, preferably between 780 and 1000 mg / L.

[0018] Preferably according to the invention, the mineral composition of said spring water further comprises: Calcium, at a concentration between 53 and 115 mg / L, and preferably also magnesium at a concentration between 10 and 80 mg / L and / or bicarbonate at a concentration between 150 and 195 mg / L and / or chloride at a concentration between 160 mg / L and 260 mg / L and / or fluorides at a concentration between 0.50 and 0.8 mg / L and / or nitrate at a concentration between 25 mg / L and 145 mg / L and / or sulfate at a concentration between 120 and 190 mg / L

[0019] The said spring water has a mineralization between 650 mg / L and 1100 mg / L, preferably between 780 and 1000 mg / L.

[0020] According to the present invention, "mineralization" refers to the sum of the concentrations of anions and cations present in the water.

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, spring water refers to water of natural origin from an aquifer or underground deposit, which gives it healthy microbiological characteristics and protects it from any risk of pollution. Under French law, spring water as defined in this invention may also be called mineral water (Articles R1321-84 to 90 of the Public Health Code).

[0022] In a particularly preferred manner according to the invention, said spring water is the water from the Zamzam spring.

[0023] Zamzam water, also called "Zamzam water," comes from a spring located in Mecca, Saudi Arabia. The Zamzam water source may also be referred to as "the source of Zemzem" or "Bir Ismail."

[0024] The water from the Zamzam spring has a particular mineral content, which can vary over time, depending on the year and the process used (see, for example, Basem Shomar, "Zamzam water: concentration of trace elements and other characteristics," Chemosphere 86 (2012) 600-605; Al Zuhair N. and Khounganian R., "A comparative study between the chemical composition of potable water and Zamzam water in Saudi Arabia," (2006); El-Zaiat, SY, "Inherent optical properties of Zamzam water in the visible spectrum: dispersion analysis," The Arabian Journal for Science and Engineering 2007, 32 (2A), 171-180; and Alfadul, SM; Khan, MA, "Water quality of bottled water in the kingdom of Saudi Arabia: A comparative study with Riyadh municipal and Zamzam water").Journal of Environmental Science and Health Part A 2011, 46 (13), 1519-1528, Doha Al Nouri, Badriah Al Abdulkarim, Shaista Arzoo, Zubaida Abdel Nabi Bakeet « Quality Characteristics of Commonly Consumed Drinking Water in Riyadh and Effect of Domestic Treatments on Its Chemical Constituents » Journal of Food and Nutrition Research. 2014), et qui comprend : . Sodium at a concentration between 85 mg / L and 150 mg / L, preferably between 90 and 140 mg / L, preferably between 90 and 133 mg / L, and potassium at a concentration between 35 and 60 mg / L, preferably between 40 and 50 mg / L, and preferably also calcium at a concentration between 50 and 230 mg / L, preferably between 53 and 115 mg / L, and magnesium at a concentration between 10 and 80 mg / L, and / or bicarbonate at a concentration between 150 and 195 mg / L, and / or chloride at a concentration between 160 mg / L and 260 mg / L, and / or fluorides at a concentration between 0.50 and 0.8 mg / L, and / or nitrate at a concentration between 25 mg / L and 145 mg / L, and / or sulfate in a concentration between 120 and 190 mg / L, a pH between 6.5 and 8.5, preferably a mineralization between 650 mg / L and 1100 mg / L, preferably between 780 and 1000 mg / L, and

[0025] Preferably, the Zamzam water according to the present invention is the Zamzam water marketed and bottled by the Saudi authorities, the composition of which is as follows: Sodium in a concentration between approximately 91 mg / L and approximately 93 mg / L, potassium in a concentration between approximately 42 mg / L and approximately 44 mg / L, and calcium in a concentration between approximately 55 mg / L and approximately 57 mg / L.

[0026] For comparison, the mineral content of other spring waters available on the French market is presented below: Table 2: Mineral concentration of commercially available spring water (mg / L) Composition Chantereine Volvic Mont calm Contrex Calcium 119 9,9 3 467 Sodium 7 9,4 1,5 7 Magnesium 28 6,1 0,6 84 Bicarbonate 430 65,3 377 Sulfates 5,2 6,9 8,7 1192 Nitrates 0 6,3 0,9 - Potassium 2 5,7 0,4 3

[0027] The use of this Zamzam water in a pharmaceutical, nutraceutical or food composition has been described (US8852651), for the treatment or prophylactic of immune system disorders, anxiety, memory dysfunctions or deficiencies, lack of concentration, diminished emotional well-being, bad mood, sexual dysfunctions, impotence, and lack of appetite.

[0028] In addition to the aforementioned therapeutic or prophylactic effect, Zamzam spring water has also been characterized as an excellent corrosion inhibitor of steel (Elshami, Bonnet S and Khelidj A. Zamzam Water as Corrosion Inhibitor for Steel Rebarin Rainwater and Simulated Acid Rain. International Journal of Chemical, Molecular, Nuclear, Materials and Metallurgical Engineering Vol:8, No:9, 2014) in rainwater or simulated rainwater.

[0029] Preferably according to the invention, said spring water is present at concentrations ranging from 0.01% to about 90% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.1% to about 75% by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 1.0% to about 50% by weight of the composition and more preferably still from about 1.0% to about 25% by weight of the composition.

[0030] The composition implemented in the present invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields and compatible with the characteristics of said composition.

[0031] The formulations according to the invention will be prepared according to the classic methods well known to those skilled in the art, such as those described in "Pharmaceutical Handbook Remington", Mack Publishing Co., NY, USA, with appropriate excipients.

[0032] The composition can be used in any way conceivable by a person skilled in the art. It may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam. It may also be applied to the skin as an aerosol. It may also be in solid form, for example, as a stick.

[0033] Preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention is in the form of a white or colored cream, in particular a cleansing, protective, treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, (for example day cream, night cream, makeup remover cream, foundation cream, sunscreen cream), fluid foundation, an ointment, a milk, in particular sunscreen milk, a lotion, gel or foam for skin care, such as a cleansing lotion, sunscreen lotion, artificial tanning lotion, a serum, a paste, gel-creams, emulsions, aqueous solutions, gels, ointments, aerosols, stick or pressed powder, a bath composition, a deodorizing composition, comprising a bactericidal agent, aftershave gel or lotion, depilatory cream, composition against insect bites.

[0034] Preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention further comprises excipients and compatible actives forming an acceptable medium, said actives being able to be chosen from: vegetable oils, mineral oils, glycerins, essential oils, minerals, amino acids and analogues, vitamins and their derivatives, and fatty acids and ethoxylated fatty acids and their derivatives, plant extracts, urea and silica derivatives, polyol derivatives, lactic acid, fruit acids and actives which have a moisturizing, emollient or anti-aging effect.

[0035] A cosmetically acceptable medium is understood to be one that is compatible with the keratinous materials of human beings such as skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair.

[0036] The composition implemented in the present invention is intended for topical application to the skin, as defined in the claims. A cosmetically acceptable medium according to the present invention may be glycerin in amounts ranging from approximately 0.10% to approximately 20%.

[0037] The compositions may also include all the constituents commonly used in the intended application. In particular, and advantageously, the compositions may include, in addition to the combination described above, at least one additional skincare ingredient and / or active ingredient, especially for oily skin.

[0038] In particular, the additional active ingredients described in patent application WO 2004 / 105736 may be combined, including depigmenting agents, preservatives, antiperspirants, sebum-regulating agents, metal chelators, hydrolyzed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, soothing or anti-irritant agents, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0040] Since the composition implemented in the present invention is intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle or medium must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, which does not generate stinging, pulling or redness unacceptable to the user.

[0041] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises Zamzam spring water, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol & Polysorbate 60, glycerin, xanthan gum, tocopherol acetate, and 5-Chloro-2-methylisothiazolin-3-one.

[0042] This invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for moisturizing the skin, preferably by strengthening the skin's lipid barrier. This use is particularly suitable for the treatment of dry skin.

[0043] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrating the skin" means increasing the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes, that is, the amount of water contained in the epithelia, particularly the epidermis and / or the epithelium of the mucous membranes. This content thus reflects the state of hydration. Various methods exist for measuring the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes, as understood by those skilled in the art, notably in vivo, particularly using a corneometer, and / or by measuring desquamation using a corneofix, or in vitro, notably by measuring dielectric conductivity.

[0044] These moisturizing properties of the composition according to the invention are notably provided in a lasting manner to the skin after repeated application, that is to say, they persist for several days and / or one or more weeks after application, even if the skin is no longer in contact with the composition according to the invention.

[0045] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used to prevent and / or reduce skin laxity and for its anti-aging effect on the skin and / or for its anti-redness effect on the skin.

[0046] According to the present invention, the anti-aging effect means preventing the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin, and / or reducing wrinkles and / or fine lines on wrinkled skin, and / or decreasing or reducing redness.

[0047] In another aspect, this invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to prevent or reduce skin redness. The appearance of redness on the skin can be age-related and therefore be mistaken for an anti-aging effect, but it can also be related to other factors. LEGEND FOR FIGURES

[0048] Figure 1 : Illustration of application areas Figure 2 :Extract from Raman spectrum at 5 µm depth (volunteer 02). Figure 3 Histograms 1 represent unbound water (UBW) at three depths and at T0 (day 1) and T4 (day 28) of volunteer 03. (Control: control area, Right: right forearm area, Left: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 4 : Histograms 2 represent partially bound water (PBL) at three depths and at T0 (day 1) and T4 (day 28) of volunteer 03. (Control: control area, Right: right forearm area, Left: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 5 : Histograms 3 represent tightly bound water (EEL) at three depths and at T0 (day 1) and T4 (day 28) of volunteer 03. (Control: control area, Right: right forearm area, Left: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 6 :Histograms 4a representing unbound water (UBW) at a depth of 15 µm and at T0 (day 1) and T4 (day 28) of volunteer 03. (Control: control area, Right: right forearm area, Left: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 7 : Histograms 4b representing partially bound water (PBL) at a depth of 15 µm and at T0 (day 1) and T4 (day 28) of volunteer 03. (Control: control area, Right: right forearm area, Left: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 8 : Histograms 4c representing tightly bound water (EEL) at a depth of 15 µm at T0 (day 1) and T4 (day 28) of volunteer 03. (Control: control area, Right: right forearm area, Left: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 9 :Graph 1 considering the overall water content (vOH: area under the ASC curve) for all volunteers at a depth of 15 µm at J0, J1 (after 7 days), J2 (at 14 days), J3 (after 21 days) and J4 (day 28). Figure 10 : Figure 2: Results of the CORNEO study (arbitrary units) at 0 (day 1), 1 (day 7), 2 (day 14), 3 (day 21), and 4 (day 28). (T: control area, D: right forearm area, L: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 11 : Figure 3: PIE study results at 0 (day 1), 1 (day 7), 2 (day 14), 3 (day 21), and 4 (day 28). (T: control area, D: right forearm area, L: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 12 :Figure 4 showing the ratio of AUC vasymCH2 (2885 cm-1) / vsymCH2 (2850 cm-1) for the three volunteers at J0 (day 1) and J4 (day 28), and at three measurement depths. (T: control area, BD: right forearm area, BG: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). Figure 13 : Figure 5: Ratios of left-transverse conformations analyzed by the ratios of AUCs to 1127 + 1081 cm⁻¹ / 1062 cm⁻¹ at D0 (day 1) and D4 (day 28) at three depths. (T: control area, BD: right forearm area, BG: left forearm area, see Figure 1 / 13 ). EXAMPLE

[0049] The Plaintiff observed the hydrating effect of Zamzam water on the skin by comparing two basic preparations on three healthy volunteers in a double-blind study after 28 days. One preparation was based on commercially available bottled Zamzam water, the composition of which is given below (formula B), and the other reference preparation was based on distilled water (formula A), with the same ingredients and dosages used in both to compare the effect attributable to the two different waters. Formula A

[0050] Distilled water 81,6% Isopropyl palmitate 10% Cetearyl alcohol & Polysorbate 60 7% Glycerin 1% Xanthan gum 0,2% Tocopherol acetate 0,1% 5-Chloro-2-methylisothiazolin-3-one 2-Methylisothiazolin-3-one 0,1% Formula B

[0051] Commercial Zamzam spring water (bottled) 81,6% Isopropyl palmitate 10% Cetearyl alcohol & Polysorbate 60 7% Glycerin 1% Xanthan gum 0,2% Tocopherol acetate 0,1% 5-Chloro-2-methylisothiazolin-3-one 2-Methylisothiazolin-3-one 0,1%

[0052] Composition of commercially bottled Zamzam Water: sodium: 92.1 mg / L Potassium: 42.54 mg / L Calcium: 56.1 mg / L

[0053] We measured skin hydration in vivo using: 1- Confocal Raman spectroscopy; 2- Electrical measurement of skin hydration; 3- PIE measurements. 1. Confocal Raman spectroscopy has proven to be a powerful, non-invasive tool that can track changes in skin biomolecular markers in real time and determine the concentration profiles of water and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) deep within human skin. 2. Electrical measurement of skin hydration involves measuring its electrical impedance (EI), defined as the skin's electrical resistance to alternating current. The skin's electrical properties are directly related to the skin's water content. An increase in epidermal hydration levels results in changes in the skin's electrical properties, manifested by a decrease in capacitance and EI. This measurement is performed using an MPA 6 corneometer (Courage and Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany). Capacitance is expressed in arbitrary units. 3.Transepidermal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed using a TEWAmeter MPA 6 evaporimeter (Courage and Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany). The probe was held and used on a stable skin surface until TEWL was established.

[0054] Confocal Raman microscopy of biological samples allows for non-destructive chemical analysis. This technique is particularly useful for analyzing elastic samples such as skin. The measurements in vivoRaman microscopy was performed using a confocal Raman optical microprobe in the range of 400 to 3800 cm⁻¹. The excitation wavelength used was 660 nm with a laser power of 15.0 mW at the skin site. A long-distance working objective, MPlanFL N 100X / NA 0.75, was coupled to a piezoelectric system allowing 1 µm discontinuity increments. Six measurements at different points on the forearm were taken for each volunteer. For each analysis, an exposure time of 2 seconds was used with two accumulations at depths ranging from 0 to 15 µm, with a step size of 5 µm to enable rapid depth profiling.The signals and spectra were separated into two wavenumber zones: the 400-1800 cm⁻¹ region, known as the "fingerprint" region, and the 2600-3100 cm⁻¹ region, normalized to the amide I band (1565-1720 cm⁻¹) and the CH stretch band (2800-3030 cm⁻¹), respectively.

[0055] The trial lasted 28 days with three healthy female volunteers, aged 23, 29, and 34. They used both creams daily, the reference formula A on their left hand and formula B on their right hand (one application per day) ( Figure 1 / 13 Biometric measurements (temperature, PIE, and EI) and dispersive Raman spectroscopy were used to examine the forearms from T0 (day 1 of the experiment) to day 28 (T4). As proof of concept, we present here the results of a volunteer who regularly used both creams.

[0056] The results show that the new general formulas based on Zamzam spring water have a hydrating effect by increasing water in the skin and improving the integrity of the lipid surface.

[0057] All Raman microspectroscopy spectra were acquired and preprocessed according to the following procedure: basic linear subtraction (to remove intrinsic skin fluorescence), normalization using the two bands, respectively, at 1565-1720 cm⁻¹ (corresponding to the amide I band) and 2800-3030 cm⁻¹ (corresponding to the CH elongation band). For the ratio calculation, the integrated areas under each band were used (AUC or area under the curve). Different spectral characteristics representing the barrier function of SC were used to study its behavior during the application of the protocol. Figure 2 / 13The Raman spectrum of the SC is dominated by vibrational bands of its structural proteins, lipids, and tissue water. In order to study biochemical changes in the SC, we focused our study on different functionalities of the spectra.

[0058] The bars of histograms 1, 2 and 3 ( Figures 3 / 13 , 4 / 13 And 5 / 13) represent the water content of the reference / control (Control), right forearm (Right), and left forearm (Left) samples from volunteer 03. All these results were extracted from three fixed depths: 5, 10, and 15 µm, and showed: The AUC value of 3470 cm⁻¹ indicates unbound water. Unbound water is defined as water that is not directly bound to SC components, and therefore does not exhibit hydrogen bonds with SC lipids or proteins. This can be defined as the water present in a layered system (second layer, third layer) that can be found even at low relative humidity values ​​(Vyumvuhore R, Tfayli A, Duplan H, Delalleau A, Manfait M, Baillet-Guffroy A. Analyst 138 (2013) 4103-4111). By comparing the total ASC values ​​of formulas A and B ( Figure 3 / 13(Histograms 1) At the beginning of the study, we found that the skin of the right forearm (formula A) was 2.7 times more hydrated than the skin of the left forearm (formula B), while at the end of the study, we found that the skin of the left forearm (formula B) was 1.2 times more hydrated than the skin of the right forearm (formula A). We note that hydration is significantly improved at a depth of 15 µm: hydration is 3.3 times greater at the end of the study for formula B compared to the reference formula A, whereas a slightly greater hydration of formula A (1.2 times) was observed at the beginning of the study.

[0059] The AUC values ​​at 3280 cm⁻¹ and 3345 cm⁻¹ are indicative of partially bound water (PBL). Tightly bound water (PBL) is bound to the polar sites of proteins in the subcellular matrix (SC) that form the first water monolayer, while PBL is bound to the first water monolayer and other molecular components of the SC. This means that the water molecules in PBL interact only partially with neighboring molecules using just 2 or 3 of the 4 possible hydrogen bonds. Thus, the bands at 3280 cm⁻¹ and 3345 cm⁻¹ and their AUC values ​​are associated with PBL.

[0060] By comparing the total ASC values ​​of formulas A and B ( Figure 4 / 13(Histograms 2) At the beginning of the study, we found that the skin of the right forearm (formula B) was 2.6 times more hydrated than the skin of the left forearm (formula A), and at the end of the study, we found that total hydration was equivalent with both formulas. However, we observed that hydration is significantly improved at a depth of 15 µm: the EPL is 16 times greater at the end of the study for formula B than for the reference formula A.

[0061] The evaluation of the ASCs of the band at 3210 cm⁻¹ indicates tightly bound water (EEL). In addition to NH stretching, the ASCs of the band at 3210 cm⁻¹ may be related to tightly bound water (primary bound water). In this case, water molecules are involved as double hydrogen bond acceptors and double hydrogen bond donors, giving a vOH band around 3220 cm⁻¹. Comparing the total ASC values ​​of formula A and B ( Figure 5 / 13(Histograms 3) At the beginning of the study, we found that the skin of the right forearm (formula B) contained 1.7 times more EEL than the skin of the left forearm (formula A), and at the end of the study, we found that the skin of the left forearm (formula B) also contained 3.6 times more EEL than the skin of the right forearm (formula A). We note that hydration is significantly improved at a depth of 15 µm: the EEL is 8.2 times greater at the end of the study for formula B than for the reference formula A.

[0062] We can summarize the effect of hydration at a depth of 15 µm for the three types of water in histograms 4a, b and c ( Figures 6 / 13 , 7 / 13 And 8 / 13 ). We observe that the increase in hydration for the three types of water for formula B is considerably increased compared to formula A.

[0063] We note that the overall water, which is a sign of hydration at a depth of 15 µm ( Figure 9 / 13 , graph 1) is increased for the skin of the left forearm compared to the skin of the right forearm in 28 days of application.

[0064] The results of the corneometry study (CORNEO) showed a clear improvement in skin hydration due to the application of formula B compared to formula A and the control. Indeed, the improvement is cumulative; at the end of the study, at 28 days, we observed an improvement in hydration compared to the beginning of the study ( Figure 10 / 13 (Graph 2).

[0065] PIE is the measure of transepidermal water loss; it is used to study the water barrier and function of human skin. A low measurement represents minimal water loss. The lower the measurement, the more effective the protective layer. This diagram highlights the superiority of Formula B ( Figure 11 / 13 (Graph 3).

[0066] It is well known that the elasticity and effectiveness of the subcutaneous (SC) barrier function are strongly affected by its degree of hydration [T. Richter, JH Müller, UD Schwarz, R. Wepf, R. Wiesendanger, App. Phys. A: Mat. Sci. Proc., 72 (2001) S125-S128; RR Warner, KJ Stone, YL Boissy, J Invest Dermatol, 120 (2003) 275-284]. Therefore, it is of great interest to examine the interaction of water with SC constituents. Water molecules interact with the polar groups of SC molecules, thereby increasing intermolecular and intramolecular spaces. The water-lipid interaction, likely at the polar head groups, could lead to a modification of the conformation of hydrocarbon chains and, especially, their supramolecular organization. The conformations of SC lipids are often evaluated by Raman spectroscopy by comparing the peak at 1080 cm⁻¹ (conformation control). left) and the peaks centered on 1060 and 1130 cm⁻¹ (evidence of conformations) trans Unlike conformations left, conformations trans are associated with a more compact organizational state.

[0067] To study the biochemical changes in the SC, we focused our study on different spectral characteristics; the ratio ν as CH2 (2885 cm⁻¹) / vs CH2 (2850 cm⁻¹), generally used as an indicator of both conformational state and lateral stacking. High values ​​are associated with higher conformational content. trans superior, which means a more compact organization.

[0068] We note that the ratio of ν asym CH 2 (2885 cm -1< ) ​​ / ν sym CH 2 (2850 cm -1< ) ​​for the three volunteers is slightly increased on the last day for the skin of the left forearm ( Figure 12 / 13 (see graph 4).

[0069] The v (CC) of the optical mode in the imprint region 1050-1140 cm- 1< , related to the presence of conformation trans Or LEFT within the acyl chains. Conformation ratios trans-left were analyzed by calculating the ratio ASC 1127 + 1081 cm -1 < / ASC 1062 cm -1 < . High values ​​of this ratio are associated with a compact state of lipid assembly while a decrease is indicative of relaxation.

[0070] We note that this ratio is increased from the beginning of the study until the end, at 28 days. This means that the lipids are more compact, which corresponds to improved hydration and reduced skin laxity ( Figure 13 / 13 (Figure 5).

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use for moisturizing the skin of a cosmetic composition intended for topical application to the skin, said composition comprising spring water comprising: - sodium in a concentration between 85 mg / L and 150 mg / L, and potassium in a concentration between 35 and 60 mg / L; - calcium, in a concentration between 50 and 230 mg / L; said spring water having a mineralization between 650 mg / L and 1100 mg / l, preferably between 780 and 1000 mg / L.

2. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use for moisturizing the skin according to claim 1, wherein said spring water further comprises: • magnesium in a concentration between 10 and 80 mg / L and / or • bicarbonate in a concentration between 150 and 195 mg / L and / or • chloride in a concentration between 160 mg / L and 260 ml / L and / or • fluorides in a concentration between 0.50 and 0.8 mg / L and / or • nitrate in a concentration between 25 mg / L and 145 mg / L and / or • sulfate in a concentration between 120 and 190 mg / L.

3. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use for moisturizing the skin according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that said spring water is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to about 90% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.1% to about 75% by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 1.0% to about 50% by weight of the composition and still more preferably from about 1.0% to about 25% by weight of the composition.

4. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use for moisturizing the skin according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is in the form of a white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, paste, foam, gel-creams, emulsions, aqueous solutions, gels, ointments, aerosols, stick or pressed powder.

5. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use for moisturizing the skin according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises spring water having a mineralization between 650 mg / L and 1100 mg / l, sodium in a concentration between 85 mg / L and 150 mg / L, potassium in a concentration between 35 and 60 mg / L, calcium in a concentration between 50 and 230 mg / L, magnesium in a concentration between 10 and 80 mg / L, bicarbonate in a concentration between 150 and 195 mg / L, chloride in a concentration between 160 mg / L and 260 ml / L, fluorides in a concentration between 0.50 and 0.8 mg / L, nitrate in a concentration between 25 mg / L and 145 mg / L and sulfate in a concentration between 120 and 190 mg / L, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol & Polysorbate 60, glycerin, xanthan gum, tocopherol acetate and 5-Chloro-2-methylisothiazolin-3-one.