Use of a novel composition for preventing or slowing down the appearance of unsightly signs relating to the presence of excess sebum

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a composition (C) for preventing or slowing down the appearance of unsightly signs relating to the presence of excess sebum on the skin and / or the scalp, with the composition (C1) comprising, for 100% of its weight: a) between 60.0 wt.% and 75.0 wt.% of an organic solvent (SO) selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of said 10 compounds; b) between 0.1 wt.% and 2.0 wt.% of a composition (ES) comprising a quantity by weight x, expressed as equivalent by weight, of 1-O-(2-caffeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicaffeoyl quinic acid, which is higher than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I): formula (I), in which Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 and Q5 are, independently from each other, the hydroxyl radical or one of the salts thereof or a radical selected from the radicals caffeoyl, maloyl, caffeoyl maloyl and maloyl caffeoyl, with the understanding that at least one of said radicals Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 and Q5 is neither the radical -OH, nor one of the salts thereof; and c) between 20.0 wt.% and 35.0 wt.% of water.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of a composition comprising poly-substituted quinic acid derivatives, and more particularly to an extract of the plant Arctium lappa including said derivatives for preparing topical formulations intended to reduce the amount of sebum produced by human skin and / or scalp.

[0002] Since human skin is the first impression presented to others, improving its appearance is often a concern for people. Skin reflects either a state of well-being, often associated with clear / radiant skin, or, conversely, a state of fatigue and / or neglect, often associated with oily or shiny skin.

[0003] The skin is an atypical organ of the human body, extremely thin relative to its size, yet also the heaviest organ in an individual. One of the skin's characteristics is that it acts as an interface organ, a boundary organ, between the internal environment (the human body) and the external environment. Therefore, along with the flora that covers and inhabits it, the skin is the first line of defense for the human organism.

[0004] Because of its position as an interface with the external environment, the skin is subjected to numerous daily stresses, such as contact with clothing, changes in temperature, changes in humidity levels, changes in pressure, and even aggressions, such as contact with certain chemicals that are or may be very acidic, very basic, or irritating, or with chemicals considered to be polluting agents.

[0005] The skin is composed of layers of different tissues: The epidermis, composed of keratinocytes, is its outermost part, then comes the dermis, which is a connective tissue composed mainly of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix, and the hypodermis, made up of adipocytes, which is the deepest part and furthest from the external environment.

[0006] The skin performs various functions for the benefit of the entire system it houses, among which we can highlight: A mechanical barrier function to guarantee the integrity of the body's internal environment, an emunctory function aimed at secreting sweat based on water, salts and acidic waste, a function of regulating body temperature, and contains many other regulatory mechanisms, such as its mechanism of adaptation and protection against ultraviolet radiation (adaptive pigment coloration by the production of melanin), such as an immune surveillance system through the presence of macrophages, dendritic cells.

[0007] Human skin is also the first image presented to others. Consequently, improving its appearance is a constant concern for human beings. Skin reflects a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and on the contraryof a state of fatigue and / or aging. As a result, the preservation and improvement of the condition of the outermost layer of the skin, namely the epidermis, is a major focus of research conducted by the cosmetics industry.

[0008] At the periphery of the epidermis, there is an upper stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum, which is the first layer of the epidermis to undergo external stresses, such as variations in external climatic conditions (temperature, pressure, humidity) or mechanical stresses.

[0009] THE stratum corneum is more specifically in contact with the skin microbiota.

[0010] For the purposes of this application, "skin microbiota" refers to a population of microorganisms, specialized or opportunistic, such as bacteria, fungi, yeasts, etc., that live on the surface of the skin.

[0011] The skin microbiota cannot be defined in a specific and generalized way for all individuals. Since the launch in 2007 of the National Institutes of Health's "Human Microbiome Project" (HMP), researchers have observed large topographical variations in the human microbiota as well as significant differences between individuals.

[0012] At least nineteen phylum identified are the four main genera Actinobacteria (51.8%), Firmicutes (24.4%), Proteobacteria (16.5%), and Bacteroidetes (6.3%). The predominant genera identified are Corynebacterium, Propionibacterium And Staphylococcus. The abundance of each group is highly dependent on the different locations. Fungal organisms isolated on the skin are of the genus Malassezia spp. In addition, mites of the genus Demodex are also present and reside in the pilosebaceous units, most often on the surface of the face.

[0013] This microbiota feeds on both molecules excreted by the skin (lipids, proteins, etc.) and compounds secreted by the communities of microorganisms, highlighting a genuine cooperation within this microbiota. Furthermore, this relationship with the host constitutes a true symbiosis.

[0014] Bacteria can be commensal when they live in contact with the skin and mucous membranes of a host without causing damage. A balance is then established between the individual and the various commensal flora of the skin and mucous membranes, but this balance is constantly threatened by physical or chemical aggressions to which the body is subjected. stratum corneum, such as pollution, temperature variations, ultraviolet radiation, intensive use of detergent surfactants, stress, etc.... Alongside these commensal bacteria, there are transient, undesirable and / or pathogenic bacteria.

[0015] Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis)constitutes more than 90% of the resident aerobic flora present in the stratum corneum. The resident flora also includes anaerobic bacteria belonging to the Actinobacteria division, such as Propionibacterium acnes (P. acne), frequently found in sebaceous areas, such as the back, face and scalp.

[0016] While the normal skin flora constitutes a defense for the host, an increase or reduction in bacterial composition (dysbiosis) can lead to skin inflammation and may be at the root of the development of certain skin pathologies such as acne, atopic dermatitis or even psoriasis.

[0017] Oily skin is linked to a biological phenomenon called seborrhea, or sebaceous hypersecretion, defined as an abnormally high production of sebum by the skin's sebaceous glands. This sebum, flowing onto the skin's surface, gives it that unsightly "shiny" appearance. This seborrhea is generally linked to an excess of the hormone testosterone, which, once in the sebaceous glands, is converted by 5-alpha reductase into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT then binds to receptors in the sebaceous cells and stimulates sebum production.

[0018] Hyperseborrhea is accompanied by follicular hyperkeratinization, characterized by an increase in the number of keratinocytes at the level of the follicular infundibulum, which causes an obstruction of the follicular canal and makes it difficult for sebum to flow.

[0019] This leads to an accumulation of sebum, which is beneficial to the development of anaerobic bacteria. Propionibacterium acnes. This will lead to the appearance of an inflammatory phenomenon. All of these phenomena lead to the appearance of characteristic clinical signs, such as comedones, which characterize acne-prone skin.

[0020] The presence of the P. bacteria. acneThe pilosebaceous unit is known to be involved in the development of the condition. Acne vulgaris is a skin disease linked to dysbiosis, i.e., an imbalance of the skin microbiota. Excessive tobacco and alcohol consumption also appear to be factors that can exacerbate the effects of acne vulgaris. Among other environmental factors, stress, urban pollution, and sun exposure (UV radiation inducing the peroxidation of sebum, particularly squalene) are also recognized as contributing to the worsening of acne vulgaris symptoms.

[0021] Colonization of the pilosebaceous follicle by P. acne is an important factor in the inflammatory response in acne vulgaris. In fact, acne is not in the strict sensean infectious disease because this germ initially exerts an inflammatory action, linked to its numerous enzymatic and chemical secretions and the immunological reactions it triggers. Thus, P. acne stimulates the production by sebocytes, keratinocytes and leukocytes (lymphocytes and monocytes) of many inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, IL1β, IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, IL-12, IL-17, IL-18, TNF-α, GM-CSF and IFN-γ) as well as antimicrobial peptides (defensins and cathelicidins), matrix metalloproteinases, reactive oxygen species and other products involved in the inflammatory response.

[0022] Furthermore, P. acne secretes a lipase that hydrolyzes sebum triglycerides into free fatty acids that are irritating and chemotactic to neutrophils.

[0023] Among the plant extracts that can be used for their effects on the human microbiota, one can mention a freeze-dried extract of burdock leaves (or Arctium lappa) for which antibacterial activity has been demonstrated, and more specifically activity against oral microorganisms, proving more effective against bacteria associated with endodontic pathogens such as Bacillus subtilis, Candida albicans, Lactobacillus acidophilus And Pseudomonas aeruginosa (1).

[0024] It is also described that burdock leaves are also a possible topical remedy for skin problems such as eczema, acne and psoriasis (1).

[0025] It is also described in the literature that extracts from burdock leaves show antimicrobial activities (2).

[0026] The Chinese patent application published under number CN106074663 A describes a composition of plant extracts including Milo wood extract, burdock root extract, and honeysuckle extract, and describes more particularly that the burdock root extract treats dry skin, acute pruritus, inflammation, scars and other symptoms, by inhibiting inflammatory factors induced by various causes (external stress or genetic factors), improving immune activity and the skin's antioxidant activity, soothing and repairing the skin.

[0027] The US patent application published under number US20170136077 discloses that a number of plant extracts, including a burdock root extract, a root extract of Epilobium angustifolium, an excerpt from Cystoseira amentaceapromote the reduction of the production of cytokines IL-8, IL-1 and TNF-α by keratinocytes stimulated by Phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (or "PMA").

[0028] This model is known to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effect of ingredients because PMA is an activator of the protein kinase C pathway which has a general inflammatory effect on cells.

[0029] The published U.S. patent application under number US2017 / 239159 A1 describes a composition capable of controlling sebum production by regulating the expression of ABH antigens comprising 1,3-dicaffeoylquinic acid, 1,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, amentoflavone or a derivative thereof or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof.

[0030] As part of their research concerning new cosmetic active ingredients for the prevention and / or treatment of the signs of unsightly effects linked to the presence of an excess of sebum on the skin and / or scalp, such as a sebum content on the skin greater than 95 µgrams.cm-2 or more particularly greater than 120 µgrams.cm-2, the inventors have focused on developing a new technical solution based on the use of a composition comprising poly-substituted quinic acids (or "QPS"), on the use of extracts of Burdock roots comprising said QPS, obtained by a process including a prior step of aeroponic cultivation of said Burdock, to present sebum-reducing effects on human skin.

[0031] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing a composition (C 1) comprising, for 100% of its mass: a)- From 60.0% mass to 75.0% mass of an organic solvent (SO1) selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds; b) - From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity x 1, expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl) maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I): in which Q1, Q3, Q4 and Q5 independently represent the hydroxyl radical or one of its salts or a radical chosen from: (i) - The caffeoyl radical with formula (II): (ii) - The maloyl radical of formula (IIIa) or (IIIb): (iii) - The caffeine maloyl radical with formula (IVa) or (IVb): (iv)- The maloyl caffeoyl radical with formula (Va), (Vb), (Vc) or (Vd), provided that at least one of these radicals Q1, Q3, Q4, and Q5 does not represent the radical -OH; nor one of its salts; and c) - From 20.0% by mass to 35.0% by mass of water, to prevent or slow the appearance of unsightly signs related to the presence of excess sebum on the skin and / or scalp in humans; said process comprising the following steps: A step a ) of cultivating the plant in soilless conditions Arctium lappa fed by a nutrient solution, in order to obtain biomass (BM 1); A step b ) immersion of the roots of said biomass (BM 1) obtained at step a) previous in a medium (S 1 ), such that the biomass (BM 1 ) / medium (S 1 ) ratio is between 0.5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L, said medium (S 1 ) comprising, for 100% of its own mass, 20% to 35% by mass of water whose pH has been adjusted to a value between 1.5 and 3.5 by the addition of a protic acid chosen from sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid, and 65% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent (SO 1 ) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol or a mixture of these diols; A step c) of separation of roots from biomass at the end of the treatment defined in step b ), to isolate a liquid phase (L 1 ); A step d) immersion of said biomass (BM 2) from step c ) in said medium (S1); in a biomass (BM2) / medium (S1) ratio between 0.1 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L; A step e ) of separation of said biomass (BM 2) at the end of the treatment defined in the stage d ), to isolate a liquid phase (L2). A step f) of filtration of said liquid phase (L 2 ) obtained at step e ), to isolate a liquid phase (L 3 ), A step g) of mixing said liquid phases (L 1 ) and (L 3 ), then if necessary adding water and / or said organic solvent (SO 1 ), so as to obtain composition (C 1 ).

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, "unsightly signs related to the presence of sebum on the skin and / or scalp" means, for the purposes of the invention, any changes in the external appearance of the skin or scalp due to an excess of sebum on said skin or scalp, such as a shiny appearance, a greasy appearance, a sticky feeling of the skin or scalp, the presence of closed comedones (whiteheads) and open comedones (blackheads) on the skin.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, "excess sebum on the skin or scalp" means a sebum content on the skin greater than 95 µgrams.cm-2 or more particularly greater than 120 µgrams.cm-2.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "said mass quantity x 1 being expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid" means that the mass quantity x 1 was determined by the implementation of a quantitative analytical method of the UHPLC-MS type ("Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectra"), using as a reference standard a standard of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid previously isolated and purified to a content greater than or equal to 99%.

[0035] Such a quantitative UHPLC-MS analysis was performed with a Shimadzu_Nexera_LCMS 2020 UHPLC-MS instrument, equipped with a diode array detector and set to a wavelength of 330 nanometers, a Kinetex 2.6u XB-C18 100A. 100 x 2.1 column, and employing a mobile phase A composed of water and 0.1 wt% formic acid and a mobile phase B consisting of acetonitrile,

[0036] Among the compounds with general formula (I) present in the composition (ES), we can mention: - compounds of the DiCaféoylQuinic acid (DCQ) family as described in Table 1 below: Table 1 DiCaffeoylquinic Acid (DCQ) 1,3-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caféoyl Caféoyl OH OH 1,4-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,4-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caféoyl OH Caféoyl OH 1,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,5-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caféoyl OH OH Caféoyl 3,4-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (3,4-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Caféoyl Caféoyl OH 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (3,5-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Caféoyl OH Caféoyl 4,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (4,5 DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH OH Caféoyl Caféoyl - compounds of the TriCaffeoylQuinic Acid (TCQ) family as described in Table 2 below: Table 2 TriCaffeoylquinic Acid (TCQ) 1,3,4-O-tricaffeoylquinique acid (1,3,4-TCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl OH Acide 1,3,5-O-tricafeoylquinique (1,3,5-TCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl OH Cafeoyl Acide 1,4,5-O-tricaffeoylquinique (1,4,5-TCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl OH Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Acide 3,4,5-O-tricafeoylquinique (1,3,4-TCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl - compounds of the Maloyl TriCaféoylQuinic acid (m-TCQ) family as described in Table 3 below: Tableau 3 Maloyl TriCaféoylQuiniques (m-TCQ) Acide 1-O-maloyl-(3,4,5-O-tricafeoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Acide 3-O-maloyl-(1,4,5-O-tricafeoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Maloyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Acide 4-O-maloyl-(1,3,5-O-tricafeoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Maloyl Cafeoyl Acide 5-O-maloyl-(1,3,4-O-tricafeoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Maloyl - compounds of the Maloyl DiCaféoylQuinic Acid (m-DCQ) family as described in Table 4 below: Tableau 4 Maloyl Acide DiCaféoylQuinique (m-DCQ) 4-O-maloyl-(1,3-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Maloyl OH 5-O-maloyl-(1,3-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl OH Maloyl 3-O-maloyl- (1,4-O-dicaféoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Maloyl Cafeoyl OH 5-O-maloyl-(1,4-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl OH Cafeoyl Maloyl 3-O-maloyl-(1,5-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Maloyl OH Cafeoyl 4-O-maloyl-(1,5-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl OH Maloyl Cafeoyl 1-O-maloyl-(3,4-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl OH 5-O-maloyl-(3,4-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Maloyl 1-O-maloyl-(3,5-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl Cafeoyl OH Cafeoyl 4-O-maloyl-(3,5-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Cafeoyl Maloyl Cafeoyl 1-O-maloyl-(4,5-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl OH Cafeoyl Cafeoyl 3-O-maloyl-(4,5-O-dicaffeoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Maloyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl - compounds of the CaffeoylMaloyl TriCaffeoylQuinic acid family as described in Table 5 below: Tableau 5 Acide CaféoylMaloyl TriCaféoylQuinique (cm-TCQ) Acid 1-O--(2-caféoyl)maloyl -(3,4,5-O-tricaféoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 CaffeoylMaloyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Acid 3-O--(2-caféoyl)maloyl-(1,4,5-O-tricaféoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Acid 4-O--(2-caféoyl)maloyl-(1,3,5-O-tricaféoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl Cafeoyl Acid 5-O-(2-caféoyl)maloyl-(1,3,4-O-tricaféoyl)quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl Cafeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl - compounds of the CaffeoylMaloyl DiCaféoylQuinic acid family as described in Table 6 below Tableau 6 Acide CaféoylMaloyl DiCaféoylQuinique (cm-DCQ) 4-O-(2-caféoyl)maloyl (1,3-O-dicaféoyl)quinique acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Cafeoyl Cafeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl OH 5-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl (1,3-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caffeoyl Caffeoyl OH CaffeoylMaloyl 3-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(1,4-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caffeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl Caffeoyl OH 5-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(1,4-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caffeoyl OH Caffeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl 3-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(1,5-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caffeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl OH Caffeoyl 4-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(1,5-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caffeoyl OH CaffeoylMaloyl Caffeoyl 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(3,4-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 CaffeoylMaloyl Caffeoyl Caffeoyl OH 5-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(3,4-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Caffeoyl Caffeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(3,5-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl Caffeoyl OH Caffeoyl 4-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(3,5-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Caffeoyl CaffeoylMaloyl Caffeoyl 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(4,5-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 CaffeoylMaloyl OH Caffeoyl Caffeoyl 3-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-(4,5-O-dicafeoyl)quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH CaffeoylMaloyl Caffeoyl Caffeoyl

[0037] According to one particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (ES) as defined above comprises at least: At least one compound of formula (la) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (IIIa) or formula (IIIb) and Q3, Q4, and Q5, identical, each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II); A compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the caffeoyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb), Q3 and Q5 each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II) and Q4 represents the hydroxyl radical, and At least one compound of formula (Ic) chosen from: The compound of formula (Ic1) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Q5 each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Q4 represents the caffeoyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb);and The compound of formula (Ic 2 ) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q 1 and Q 4 represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Q 3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Q 5 represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb). ;

[0038] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (la) corresponds to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (IIIa), Q 3 and Q 4 and Q 5, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II).

[0039] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (la) corresponds to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (IIIb), Q 3 and Q 4 and Q 5, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II).

[0040] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ib) corresponds to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 represents the caféoyl radical of formula (IVa); Q 3 and Q 5, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q 4 represents the -OH radical.

[0041] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ib) corresponds to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 represents the caféoyl radical of formula (IVb); Q 3 and Q 5, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q 4 represents the -OH radical.

[0042] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ic) is the compound of formula (Ic 1 ), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 and Q 5, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q 3 represents the -OH radical; Q 4 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa).

[0043] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ic) is the compound of formula (Ic 1 ), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 and Q 5, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q 3 represents the -OH radical; Q 4 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).

[0044] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ic) is the compound of formula (Ic 2 ), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 and Q 4, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q 3 represents the -OH radical; Q 5 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa).

[0045] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ic) is the compound of formula (Ic 2 ), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q 1 and Q 4, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q 3 represents the -OH radical; Q 5 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).

[0046] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (ES) as defined above comprises at least: a compound of formula (la) as defined above for which Q 1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (IIIa) or the maloyl radical of formula (IIIb), and a compound of formula (Ib) as defined above and for which Q 1 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb), and a compound of formula (Ic 1 ) as defined above and for which Q 4 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).

[0047] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (ES) as defined above comprises at least: a compound of formula (la) as defined above for which Q 1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (IIIa) or the maloyl radical of formula (IIIb), and a compound of formula (Ib) as defined above and for which Q 1 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb), and a compound of formula (Ic 2 ) as defined above and for which Q 5 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb).

[0048] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the organic solvent (SO1) present in the composition (C1) as defined above is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, and 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol.

[0049] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (C 1) comprises, by 100% of its mass: From 60.0% by mass to 75.0% by mass of 1,2-propanediol, From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass amount x 1 , expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / of at least the compound of formula (la) as defined in claim 2, and at least the compound of formula (Ib) as defined in claim 2, and at least the compound of formula (Ic) as defined in claim 2, From 20.0% by mass to 35.0% by mass of water.

[0050] Composition (C1) can be prepared by simply mixing its constituents, at a temperature between 20°C and 60°C, more particularly between 20°C and 40°C, and even more particularly between 20°C and 30°C, and under mechanical anchor-type agitation at a speed between 50 revolutions / minute and 150 revolutions / minute.

[0051] L' step a) of cultivating the plant in soilless conditions (or aeroponics) Arctium lappa is carried out according to the standard conditions known to those skilled in the art, and more particularly those concerning the influence of the nitrogen content (2) (3) (4) (5) (6), and the phosphorus and potassium content present in the culture medium. The step a ) of cultivation in soilless conditions is therefore achieved by optimizing the nitrogen / phosphorus / potassium ratio present in the nutrient medium, and by optimizing the electroconductivity parameter of such a nutrient medium.

[0052] L' step a ) is generally conducted at a temperature between 20°C and 40°C, for a period of between 4 and 10 weeks, in order to obtain a significant amount of biomass (BM 1), particularly at the root level; the step a ) is stopped when biomass growth (BM 1 ) is no longer observed.

[0053] Applying such a cosmetic active agent to the skin, represented by the composition (C 1) as defined above, allows: to limit the formation of biofilms of opportunistic pathogenic bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus without altering the presence of commensal bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis to protect sebocytes from the overproduction of lipids, and to strengthen an anti-lipase activity of the skin or scalp; effects responsible for the development of sebum on the skin and scalp, and consequently the associated unsightly effects.

[0054] A method is also described for preventing or slowing the appearance of unsightly signs related to the presence of excess sebum on the skin and / or scalp, characterized in that it comprises at least step a 1) 2) comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient (E) and a composition (C1) consisting of, for 100% of its mass: a) 60.0% by mass to 75.0% by mass of 1,2-propanediol, b) 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass amount x 1 , expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / of at least the compound of formula (la) as defined above, and at least the compound of formula (Ib) as defined above, and at least the compound of formula (Ic) as defined above c) 20.0% by mass to 35.0% by mass of water.

[0055] According to one particular aspect, the process for preventing or slowing down the appearance of unsightly signs related to the presence of excess sebum on the skin and / or scalp includes at least step a 1) 2) comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient (E) and a composition (C1) consisting of, for 100% of its mass: a) from 60.0% by mass to 75.0% by mass of 1,2-propanediol, from 64.2% by mass to 75% by mass, more particularly from 68% by mass to 75% by mass, and even more particularly from 68% by mass to 72% by mass of 1,2-propanediol; b) from 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass, more particularly from 0.8% by mass to 2% by mass, and even more particularly from 1% by mass to 2% by mass, of a composition (ES) comprising a mass amount x 1, expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoylquinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g, more particularly greater than or equal to 400 mg / g, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 600 mg / g of at least the compound of formula (la) as defined above, and of at least the compound of formula (Ib) as defined above, and of at least the compound of formula (Ic) as defined above.c) From 20.0% mass to 35.0% mass of water, more particularly from 23% mass to 31.2% mass and even more particularly from 27% mass to 31% mass of water.

[0056] By "effective quantity" is meant, in the definition of the process as defined above, a quantity such that the anti-lipase activity of the treated skin is greater than 50% compared to the control, and / or that the production of lipid by the sebocytes of the treated skin is inhibited, and / or that the formation of the biofilm of pathogenic bacteria is reduced or slowed or inhibited.

[0057] The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of composition (C 2) means that said composition (C 2) is implemented by application to the skin, whether it is a direct application or an indirect application when said composition (C 2) is impregnated on a support intended to be put in contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc...).

[0058] The said composition (C 2) is generally spread on the surface of the skin to be treated, then the skin is massaged for a few moments.

[0059] The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of composition (C 2) means, according to Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC of 27 July 1976 as amended by Directive 93 / 35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, that it includes any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the mouth with a view exclusively and principally to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and / or correcting their body odours and / or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.

[0060] The composition (C 2) for topical use is generally presented as an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solution, as a suspension, emulsion, microemulsion or nanoemulsion, whether they are of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type, or as a powder.

[0061] The composition (C 2) for topical use may be packaged in a bottle, in a pump-type "bottle" device, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device with a ball applicator (known as "roll-on").

[0062] In general, the composition (C 2) for topical use also includes excipients and / or active ingredients commonly used in topical formulations, particularly cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical, such as thickening and / or gelling surfactants, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, conditioning agents, bleaching agents for hair and skin lightening, active ingredients intended to provide a treatment action on the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients,exfoliating particles, texturing agents.,

[0063] Examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1) include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.

[0064] Among the anionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1), we can mention the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or amino alcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alpha olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, N-acylated derivatives of fatty acids.

[0065] Among the amphoteric foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (C 2) for topical use as defined above, we can mention alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

[0066] Among the cationic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (C 1), quaternary ammonium derivatives are particularly noteworthy.

[0067] Among the non-ionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (C 1), we can mention in particular alkyl polyglycosides having an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides; N-alkylamines.

[0068] Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1) include fatty esters of alkyl polyglycosides, possibly alkoxylated, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglucoside esters like PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the names GLUCAMATE ™< LT and GLUMATE ™< DOE120 respectively; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX ™< DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate marketed under the name ANTIL ™< 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS ™< T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS ™< GT2125.

[0069] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with the topical composition (C1) defined above include copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates with a carbon chain of between four and thirty carbon atoms, and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms; linear, branched, or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer possessing a strong acid function, free, partially salified, or totally salified, with at least one neutral monomer; and at least one monomer of formula (VIII): CH2=C(R'3)-C(=O)-[CH2-CH2-O]n'-R'4 (VIII), in which R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from eight to thirty carbon atoms, and n' represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.

[0070] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include polysaccharides consisting solely of sugars, such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of the D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1 / 5), carob gum (DS = 1 / 4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1 / 2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

[0071] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include polysaccharides made up of sugar derivatives, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of sugars and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum arabic and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans.

[0072] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, and polyurethanes.

[0073] Examples of stabilizing agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include microcrystalline waxes, particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, and silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

[0074] Examples of solvents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, and mixtures of water and said organic solvents.

[0075] Examples of thermal or mineral waters that can be associated with composition (C 1) include thermal or mineral waters with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-bains water, Néris-les-bains water, Allevard-les-bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-bains water, Lons le Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water.

[0076] Examples of hydrotropic agents that can be associated with the (C 2) composition for topical use as defined above include xylene sulfonates, cumene sulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, 2-ethylhexyl polyglucoside, and n-heptyl polyglucoside.

[0077] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1) include non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants.

[0078] Examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1) include fatty acid and sorbitol esters, such as the products marketed under the names MONTANE™< 40, MONTANE™< 60, MONTANE™< 70, MONTANE™< 80 and MONTANE™< 85; compositions comprising glyceryl stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid with between 5 and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising ethoxylated stearic acid with 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glyceryl stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL™< 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methylglucoside esters;alkylpolyglycosides having an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and having from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecylpolyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, 12-hydroxystearyl polyglucoside; compositions of linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, and of alkyl polyglycosides as described above, for example compositions marketed under the names MONTANOV™< 68, MONTANOV™< 14, MONTANOV™< 82, MONTANOV™< 202, MONTANOV™< S, MONTANOV™< WO18, MONTANOV™< L, FLUIDANOV™< 20X and EASYNOV™< .;

[0079] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1) include glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acylated derivatives of salified amino acids, for example stearoyl glutamate.

[0080] Examples of emulsifying cationic surfactants that can be associated with composition (C 1) include aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in patent application WO96 / 00719 and mainly those whose fat chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0081] Examples of opacifying and / or pearlescent agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0082] Examples of texturizing agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE™ LL, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLO™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, and mica.

[0083] Examples of deodorizing agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include alkali silicates; zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN™;aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octochlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate and glycol complexes, such as aluminum chlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex.;

[0084] Examples of oils that can be associated with composition (C 1) include mineral oils such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, isoparaffins or white mineral oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane;Vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, tamanu oil, syssymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables, ethoxylated vegetable oils;synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters like butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, lanolic acid esters such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, fatty acid monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides such as glyceryl triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly(alpha-olefins), polyolefins such as poly(isobutane), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils;silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenyl-polysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, alcohol and fatty acid-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorinated-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, and alkyl-modified silicones. For the purposes of this application, "oils" means compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and are liquid at a temperature of 25°C.

[0085] Examples of waxes that can be associated with composition (C 1) include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; and glycerides that are solid at room temperature. For the purposes of this application, "waxes" means compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and are solid at a temperature of 45°C or higher.

[0086] Examples of active ingredients that can be associated with the composition (C 1) include vitamins and their derivatives, including their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a skin-lightening or depigmenting action such as ω-undecelynoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE™< MSH, SEPICALM™< VG, the monoester and / or diester of glycerol of ω-undecelynoyl phenylalanine, ω-undecelynoyl dipeptides, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; compounds showing a soothing action including SEPICALM™< S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents;compounds exhibiting hydrating action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, xylitylglucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds exhibiting slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM™, ADIPOLESS™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, for example Raffermine™; wheat extracts for example TENSINE™ or GLIADINE™; plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes;extracts of freshwater or marine algae; extracts of marine plants; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying action, such as LIPACIDE™< C8G, LIPACIDE™< UG, SEPICONTROL™< A5; OCTOPIROX™< or SENSIVA™< SC50; compounds showing energizing or stimulating properties such as PHYSIOGENYL™<, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP™< MP; anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT™ DPHP, LIPACIDE™ PVB, SEPIVINOL™, SEPIVITAL™, MANOLIVA™, PHYTO-AGE™, TIMECODE™; SURVICODE™; anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction; active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical cell communication such as integrins; active ingredients that create a "warming" sensation on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a "cooling" sensation on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve cutaneous microcirculation, for example venotonics; draining active ingredients; decongestant active ingredients such as extracts of ginkgo biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, butcher's broom, etc.; Centella asiaticaof fucus, rosemary, willow; tanning or skin-browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, plant extracts for example extracts of red woods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida such as those described in European patent application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, for example carotenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the brand name "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by the company Provital,which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; Tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on accelerating tanning of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, for example the product marketed under the brand name "SunTan Accelerator™" by the company Provital which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B), the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the brand name "Zymo Tan Complex" by the company Zymo Line, the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronze™ (INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus-castus)) by the company Mibelle which contains acetyl tyrosine, product marketed under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and Adenosine triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX,the product marketed under the brand name "Try-Excell™" (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindrica (Seed) Oil and Oleic acid) by the company Sederma, which contains pumpkin seed extract (or Loofah oil); the product marketed under the brand name "Actibronze™" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller; the product marketed under the brand name Tyrostan™ (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by the company Synerga; the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by the company Synerga; the product marketed under the brand name InstaBronze™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller,the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by the company Exymol; peptides known for their melanogenesis-activating effect, for example the product marketed under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by Infinitec Activos, the product marketed under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1) containing acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its alpha-MSH agonist action, the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes Solutions™ (INCI name: Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by LIPOTEC, sugars and sugar derivatives, for example the product marketed under the brand name Tanositol™ (INCI name: inositol) by Provital,The product marketed under the brand name Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) by CODIF International (INCI name: Aqua and Hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing a marine oligosaccharide (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions); the product marketed under the brand name Melactiva™ (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by Alban Muller; compounds rich in flavonoids, for example, the product marketed under the brand name "Biotaning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by Silab and known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (of the hesperidin type); agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, for example, agents that protect the melanocytes of the hair follicle;intended to protect said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, such as DOPAchrome tautomerase activity mimetics selected from those described in European patent application published under number EP1515688 A2, synthetic SOD mimetic molecules, for example manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds, for example cyclodextrin derivatives, siliceous compounds derived from ascorbic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylate of lysine or arginine, combinations of cinnamic acid mono- and diesters and vitamin C, and more generally those cited in European patent application published under number EP 1 515 688 A2.

[0087] Examples of antioxidant agents that can be associated with composition (C 1) include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, and mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE□ GL 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel under the INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.

[0088] Examples of sunscreens that can be associated with composition (C 1) include all those listed in the amended cosmetics directive 76 / 768 / EEC annex VII.

[0089] Among the organic sunscreens that can be associated with the composition (C 2 ) for topical use as defined above, we can mention the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), including monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N,N25 propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,Ndimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N,Ndimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-β-phenyl cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-β-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl diparamethoxy cinnamate;the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-5 carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3 (benzylidene)-d,I-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its salts;the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis-(2-ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4"-tbutylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one; the family of diphenyl acrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.

[0090] Among the inorganic sunscreens, also called "mineral sunscreens," that can be associated with composition (C 1), we can mention titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red, or black iron oxides, and chromium oxides. These mineral sunscreens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments, and may be presented as aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.

[0091] A composition (C 1 ) as defined above is also described, for use in a therapeutic treatment method aimed at reducing the amount of sebum produced by human skin and / or scalp.

[0092] According to a particular aspect, the composition (C 1 ) as defined above is used in a therapeutic treatment method aimed at reducing and / or eliminating and / or preventing the formation of comedones (blackheads) and / or whiteheads (microcysts) and / or papules and / or pustules and / or nodules and / or scars, accompanying cutaneous and / or mucosal pathologies such as acne.

[0093] By "acne", we mean acne vulgaris, retentional acne, inflammatory acne, cystic acne, acne vulgaris, papulopustular acne, acne conglobata, newborn acne, cosmetic acne, excoriated acne of young girls, Majorcan acne, occupational acne, and drug-induced acne.

[0094] The composition (C 1) for its use in a therapeutic treatment as defined above can be associated with pharmaceutical active ingredients, particularly dermatological ones. Bibliography:

[0095] (1) : Chan et al., “A review of the pharmacological effects of Arctium lappa”, Inflammopharmacol, 2011, 19:245-254). (2) : Pirvu et al.,"Comparative studies on analytical, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities of a series of plant extracts prepared from eight plant species growing in Romania", J planar Chromato 2014.

[0096] The following examples illustrate the invention, without however limiting it. A) Example of preparation A 1 ) Example of preparation of a composition (C 1A) prepared according to the invention.

[0097] Burdock plants or Arctium lappa were previously obtained by germinating seeds for a period of 60 days under standard conditions, so as to reach a size of about 10 to 15 centimeters, then they are potted to be placed in "soilless" growing conditions or in an aeroponic environment.

[0098] The roots of the Burdock plants are thus soaked in a nutrient solution characterized by an electrical conductivity between 1.0 and 1.2 millisiemens, and by a mass ratio of N / P / K (Nitrogen / Phosphorus / Potassium) supplied by the fertilizer of approximately 15 / 10 / 30. This aeroponic culture phase is conducted for six weeks at a temperature regulated at 20°C, and allows a root yield of 754 grams per square meter.

[0099] Fresh roots from the biomass thus obtained are harvested and immersed for 15 minutes in a bath containing a mixture of 100% by mass, 70% by mass of 1,2-propanediol and 30% by mass of distilled water, at a temperature of 25°C; the pH of the distilled water having been previously adjusted to 2.0 ±0.2 by adding a 75% by mass solution of phosphoric acid. The ratio of root biomass thus immersed to the volume of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture described above is 1.0 kg of root biomass per 1 liter of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture.

[0100] After immersion, the plants were removed from their exudation bath (L1), which was retained. The roots were drained and then cut. The remaining biomass was then macerated for 48 hours in a bath containing a mixture of 100% by mass, 70% by mass of 1,2-propanediol and 30% by mass of distilled water, at a temperature of 25°C. The pH of the distilled water had been previously adjusted to 2.0 ± 0.2 by adding a 75% by mass solution of phosphoric acid. The ratio of root biomass thus immersed to the volume of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture described above is 0.5 kg of biomass per liter of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture.

[0101] At the end of this maceration phase, the biomass is separated from the maceration liquid (L2), said liquid (L2) being subsequently filtered with a 50 micrometer bag filter.

[0102] Liquids (L1) and (L2) are then combined, and a necessary amount of 1,2-propanediol is added to adjust its mass content to 70%, to obtain liquid (L3), which is then filtered under a 1 micrometer membrane to clarify it, and finally under sterile filtration with a 0.2 micrometer membrane, to achieve composition (C1A). A 2 ) Example of preparation of a comparative composition (C comp ).

[0103] Seedlings from the same batch of seeds as those used to obtain the seedlings subsequently grown in aeroponics (example A 1), are used for soil cultivation of said seedlings for a period of six weeks.

[0104] At the end of this period, the plants are removed from their pots, the fresh roots are cleaned, cut and crushed, and the resulting crushed material is extracted using a conventional liquid-solid extraction process (maceration, agitation, filtration) with a 70 / 30 1,2-propanediol solvent / distilled water mixture, at a temperature of 25°C, with a mass ratio of 0.5 kg of biomass to 1 liter of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture; the pH value of the distilled water having been previously set to 2.0 ±0.2 by adding a 75% mass solution of phosphoric acid.

[0105] At the end of this extraction phase, the biomass is separated from the liquid which is then filtered with a 50 micrometer bag filter, then with a 1 micrometer membrane to clarify it, and finally under sterile filtration with a 0.2 micrometer membrane, in order to reach the composition (C comp). A 3) Analytical characterization of the composition (C 1A) prepared according to the invention and of the comparative composition (C comp).

[0106] The composition (C 1A) prepared according to the invention and the comparative composition (C comp) have been analytically characterized and the characteristics are included in Table 7 below. Table 7 Analytical characteristics Analytical method Composition (C 1A) prepared according to the invention Comparative composition (C comp) Appearance Visual Yellow liquid Yellow liquid 1,2-propanediol content Gas chromatography (headspace) 71,4% 70,0% pH According to standard NFT 73-206 3,1 3,2 Dry extract as a percentage by mass Oven at 105°C, 12 hours 0,21% 1,12% Water as a percentage by mass (NFT 73201 standard) 28,39% 28 ,88% Total content of compounds of formula (la), formula (Ib), formula (Ic 1) and formula (Ic 2) expressed in milligrams / gram of dry extract due to the plant UHPLC-MS 613.3 mg / g 169.5 mg / g Device : Shimadzu Nexera X2 Column : Waters Xterra RP C18 ; 250x4,6 mm Mobile phase (with qradient): A) Water + formic acid B) Acetonitrile UV detector (330 nm) B) Demonstration of the active properties of the compositions (C 1A ) prepared according to the invention and (C comp ) comparative. B 1) Demonstration of the effect of Composition (C 1A) on lipid overproduction induced in cases of microbiota imbalance B.1.1. Principle of the method

[0107] An imbalance in the skin microbiota occurs particularly when the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes. In this case as well, Propionibacterium acnes. induces skin inflammation, firstly by inducing the overproduction of lipids by sebocytes, and secondly by producing a lipase which transforms triglycerides into free fatty acids, which are irritating and chemotactic to neutrophils.

[0108] The effect of Composition (C 1A) on lipid overproduction was studied on sebocytes of the SEBO662AR line (Bioalternatives line) sensitive to stimuli such as testosterone to produce lipids.

[0109] Sebocytes were first treated for 4 hours with the composition to be tested (or a positive reference). Testosterone was then added to the culture medium for 7 days, with repeated treatments and stimulation after 3 days. Lipid droplet formation was detected by imaging using the Bodipy® fluorescent probe, and the results were normalized by nuclear count using a Hoechst analyzer. Statistical elements:

[0110] The values ​​are expressed as means + / - sem [standard error of the mean or standard error of the mean = standard deviation / square root (number of values)].

[0111] For each treatment:

[0112] The statistical analysis of the results was carried out using a two-tailed Student's t-test with a significance threshold set at 5%, comparing the series of values ​​two by two.

[0113] We will consider a difference between the effectiveness of two products to be: Significant if p < 0.05; Said to be "at the limit of significance" if 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1; And not significant if p > 0.1.

[0114] B.1.2. Results : The results obtained are recorded in Table 8 below. For cells stimulated with testosterone: *** p<0.001 vs. unstimulated cells. For cells stimulated with testosterone and treated with the test products: *** p<0.001; ** p<0.01 vs. stimulated cells. Table 8 Lipids (fluorescence intensity) / number of cells % Stimulation % Inhibition Unstimulated cells 1610 + / - 190 31 100 Cells stimulated with 1 nM testosterone without treatment 5179 + / - 224*** 100 0 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + positive reference (dutasteride 1 µM) 1152 + / - 133*** 22 113 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + Composition (C 1A) 0.001% dry extract due to the plant 2361 + / - 151*** 46 79 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + Composition (C AComp) 0.001% dry extract due to the plant 3452 + / - 108** 67 48 p = 0.006 vs PAT Burdock

[0115] Following the same model, the compound of formula (la), as described previously, was tested at different concentrations and the results are recorded in Table 9 below. Table 9 Lipids (fluorescence intensity) / number of cells % Inhibition % Stimulation Unstimulated cells (control) 6482 + / - 1102 100 -90 Cells stimulated with 1 nM testosterone 62464 + / - 5067*** 0 0 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + positive reference (dutasteride 1 µM) 11478 + / - 8126*** 91 -82 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + Formula compound (la) at 0.0012% 75511 + / - 1856 -23 21 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + Compound of formula (la) at 0.006% 41222 + / - 2741* 38 -34 Cells stimulated with testosterone 1 nM + Formula compound (la) at 0.012% 44271 + / - 2649* 32 -29 B.1.3. Interpretation and conclusions

[0116] The measurements recorded in Table 8 show that treatment with the composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A) of testosterone-stimulated cells inhibits lipid production by 79% compared to stimulated and untreated cells, while treatment with the comparative composition (C comp) inhibits lipid production by 48% compared to stimulated and untreated cells.

[0117] Similarly, the measurements recorded in Table 9 show that treatment with the composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A) of testosterone-stimulated cells reduces the stimulation of lipid production by 54% compared to stimulated and untreated cells, while treatment with the comparative composition (C comp) reduces the stimulation of lipid production by 33% compared to stimulated and untreated cells.

[0118] The measurements recorded in Table 9 show that treatment with the compound of formula (la), with respective levels of 0.006% and 0.012%, of testosterone-stimulated cells inhibits lipid production by 38% and 32% respectively compared to stimulated and untreated cells, whereas treatment with 0.0012% of the compound of formula (la) does not inhibit lipid production.

[0119] The composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A), and the compound of formula (la) at a content of 0.006% by mass, make it possible to limit the production of lipids by sebocytes. B 2) Demonstration of the effect of composition (C 1A) on lipid production by evaluating anti-lipase activity B.2.1. Principle of the method

[0120] This involves studying the ability of a composition to induce and regulate the activity of the lipase enzyme using a method in tubo, said enzyme having an inflammatory action.

[0121] Lipase has the ability to transform 1,2-diglyceride, which is colorless, into glycerol, which is pink in color.

[0122] The samples for evaluation testing are put in tuboIn the presence of lipase and 1,2-diglyceride, the absorbance of the samples is measured spectrophotometrically at a wavelength of 570 nm immediately after preparation, and then again after 60 minutes of incubation at 37°C under the same spectral conditions. Using a range of glycerols, the lipase activity of the samples can be calculated, as well as the percentage of inhibition, according to the following formulas: Statistical elements:

[0123] The values ​​are expressed as means + / - standard deviation.

[0124] The statistical analysis of the results was carried out using a two-tailed Student's t-test with a significance threshold set at 5%, comparing the series of values ​​two by two.

[0125] We will consider a difference between the effectiveness of two products to be: Significant if p < 0.05; Said to be "at the limit of significance" if 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1; And not significant if p > 0.1. B.2.2. Results obtained

[0126] The results obtained are recorded in Table 10 below (*** p<0.001 vs control). Table 10 Products tested Lipase activity (mU / mL) % inhibition Witness 4,21 + / - 0,02 0 Positive reference (Vitamin C) 2,11 + / - 0,01 50*** Composition (C 1A) at 1% by mass 0,92 + / - 0,01 78*** Propylene Glycol 70% to 1% 6,40 + / - 0,05 -

[0127] Following the same model, the compound of formula (la), as described previously, was tested at different concentrations and the results are recorded in Table 11 below. Table 11 Lipase activity (mU / mL) % lipase inhibition Witness 4,72 + / - 0,07 0 Positive reference (Vitamin C) 1,36 + / - 0,01 71 *** Formula compound (the) 0.0012% by mass 1,02 + / - 0,01 78*** 0.0006% by mass 2,16 + / - 0,07 54*** 0.00024% by mass 4,15 + / - 0,03 12** 0.00012% by mass 4,65 + / - 0,03 1 B.2. 3. Analysis of results

[0128] The measurements recorded in Table 10 show that treatment with the composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A) very significantly reduces lipase activity, since the percentage of inhibition measured is 78%.

[0129] Similarly, the measurements recorded in Table 11 show that treatment with the compound of formula (la), with respective levels of 0.0006% and 0.0012%, significantly reduces lipase activity, with measured inhibition percentages of 54% and 78% respectively.

[0130] The composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A), and the compound of formula (la) at a content of 0.0006% by mass, make it possible to limit the production of fatty acids on the skin, and consequently to reduce the unsightly effects associated with acne. B 3) General conclusions on biological evaluations implementing the composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A) .

[0131] The experimental evaluations in this section have demonstrated that the composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A), and the compound of formula (la) included in said composition (C 1A) at a minimum mass content of 0.006%, make it possible to limit the production of lipids by sebocytes and by inhibiting lipase activity.

[0132] It follows that the composition prepared according to the invention (C 1A) can be used for the purpose of preventing or slowing down the appearance of unsightly signs related to the presence of sebum on the skin and / or scalp, or eliminating them, such as a shiny appearance, a greasy appearance, a sticky feeling of the skin or scalp, the presence of closed comedones (whiteheads) and open comedones (blackheads) on the skin. C) Formulations

[0133] In the following formulas, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the formulation. C1) - Dermo-purifying oil-in-water emulsion

[0134] Formula Water qs 100% Glycerin 3% Solagum™< AX 0,3% Montanov ™< 202 2% Lanol™ < 99 7% Cetiol ™< OE 3% Lanol ​​™< P 0,25% Sepiplus™ < 400 0,8% Euxyl™< PE9010 1% Sensiva™< PA40 0,5% Composition (C 1A) 1% 20% Lactic Acid qs pH = 5.5 C2) - Oil-in-water sebum-controlling emulsion

[0135] Formula Water qsp 100% Montanov ™< 202 3% Montanov ™< 14 1,5% Pelemol ™< BB 2% Shea Butter 1,5% Phytosqualane 3% Jojoba oil 3% C8-C10 Triglyceride 3% DUB ISIP 3% D,L α-tocopherol 0,1% Solagum™< Tara 0,6% Composition (C 1A) 2% Sorbic acid 0,3% Sodium hydroxide 48% 0,07% C3- Soothing Serum

[0136] Formula Sepimax™< Zen 0,5% Water qsp 100% Butylene glycol 2% Aquaxyl™< 2% Composition (C 1A) 1% Montanox 20 1% Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0,80% SOLAGUM™< AX is a mixture of acacia gum and xanthan gum used as an emulsifying agent and marketed by SEPPIC; MONTANOV™< 202 (INCI name: Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent marketed by SEPPIC; LANOL™< 99 is isononyl isononanoate marketed by SEPPIC; Cétiol™< OE (INCI name: Dicaprylyl ether) is an oil phase marketed by BASF; LANOL™< P is glycol palmitate marketed by SEPPIC; Sepiplus™< 400 (INCI name: Polyacrylate-13 & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20) is a polymeric thickening agent marketed by SEPPIC;Euxyl™< PE9010 (INCI name: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin) is a preservative marketed by Schülke & Mayr; Sensiva™< PA40 (INCI name: Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) is an antimicrobial agent marketed by Schülke & Mayr; Montanov™< 14 (INCI name: Myristyl Alcohol & Myristyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent marketed by SEPPIC; Pelemol™< BB is Behenyl Behenate marketed by PHOENIX Chemical; Solagum™< Tara is Tara gum used as an emulsifying agent and marketed by SEPPIC. SEPIMAX™ Zen (INCI name: polyacrylate crosspolymer-6) is a thickening, emulsifying and stabilizing agent. AQUAXYL™ (INCI name: Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol): Moisturizing composition marketed by SEPPIC; Montanox™ 20 (INCI name: Polysorbate 20) is an oil-in-water emulsifying agent marketed by SEPPIC.

Claims

1. A process for preparing a composition (C1) comprising, for 100% of its mass: a) - 60.0% by weight to 75.0% by weight of an organic solvent (SO1) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds; b) - 0.1% by weight to 2.0% by weight of a composition (ES) comprising a quantity by weight x1, expressed in weight equivalent of 1-O-(2-caffeoyl) maloyl-3,5-O-dicaffeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I): wherein Q1, Q3, Q4 and Q5 independently represent a hydroxyl radical or one of its salts or a radical chosen from: (i) - The caffeoyl radical of formula (II): (ii) - The maloyl radical of formula (IIIa) or (IIIb): (iii) - The caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or (IVb): (iv) - The maloyl caffeoyl radical of formula (Va), (Vb), (Vc) or (Vd), it being understood that at least one of these radicals Q1, Q3, Q4 and Q5 represents neither the radical - OH; nor one of its salts; and c) - 20.0% by weight to 35.0% by weight of water, for preventing or slowing down the appearance of unaesthetic signs linked to the presence of excess sebum on the skin and / or the scalp in the human being; said process comprising the following steps: - Step a) of culturing the plant Arctium lappa under soilless conditions fed by a nutritive solution, so as to obtain a biomass (BM1); - Step b) of immersing the roots of said biomass (BM1) obtained in step a) above in a medium (S1), such that the biomass (BM1) / medium (S1) ratio is comprised between 0.5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L, said medium (S1) comprising for 100% of its own mass, 20% to 35% by weight of water whose pH has been adjusted to a value comprised between 1.5 and 3.5 by adding a protic acid chosen from sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid, and 65% to 80% by weight of an organic solvent (SO1) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol or a mixture of these diols; - Step c) of separating the roots of the biomass upon completion of the treatment defined in step b), in order to isolate a liquid phase (L1); - Step d) of immersing said biomass (BM2) resulting from step c) in said medium (S1); in a biomass (BM2) / medium (S1) ratio comprised between 0.1 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L; - Step e) of separating said biomass (BM2) upon completion of the treatment defined in step d), in order to isolate a liquid phase (L2), - Step f) of filtering said liquid phase (L2) obtained in step e), in order to isolate a liquid liquid phase (L3), - Step g) of mixing said liquid phases (L1) and (L3), then, if necessary, adding water and / or said organic solvent (SO1), so as to obtain the composition (C1).

2. The process according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition (ES) comprises: - At least one compound of formula (Ia) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (IIIa) or of formula (IIIb) and Q3 and Q4 and Q5, being identical, each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II); - A compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the caffeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb), Q3 and Q5 each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II) and Q4 represents the hydroxyl radical, and - At least one compound of formula (Ic) chosen from: - The compound of formula (Ic1) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Q5 each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Q4 represents the caffeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb); and - The compound of formula (Ic2) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Q4 each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Q5 represents the caffeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb).

3. The process according to claim 2, wherein the composition (C1) comprises for 100% of its mass: - 60.0% by weight to 75.0% by weight of 1,2-propanediol, - 0.1% by weight to 2.0% by weight of a composition (ES) comprising a quantity by weight x1, expressed in weight equivalent of 1-O-(2-caffeoyl) maloyl-3,5-0-dicaffeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least the compound of formula (Ia), and of at least the compound of formula (Ib), and of at least the compound of formula (Ic) - 20.0% by weight to 35.0% by weight of water.

Images