Means for oxidatively dyeing keratin fibres, containing at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type, isatin and at least one determined complexing agent

Abstract

The invention relates to a means for oxidatively dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetic carrier: (a) at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type; and (b) isatin; and (c) at least one complexing agent from the group including ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), l-glutamic acid, N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1 1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonic acid (DTPMP), 2,6-pyridinedicarboxylic acid and the physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

Description

[0001] Agent for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, containing at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type, isatin and at least one specific complexing agent

[0002] The present invention relates to cosmetic agents for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, which contain at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type (a), isatin (b) and at least one complexing agent (c) from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0003] A further subject matter is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) which comprises, separately packaged in a first container, an agent with the ingredients (a) and (b) and, in a further container, an oxidizing agent preparation containing hydrogen peroxide and (c).

[0004] Another subject matter is a method for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in which a previously described agent is applied to the keratin fibers and rinsed out again after a contact time.

[0005] For the provision of color-changing cosmetic products, especially for keratinous fibers such as hair, the expert is familiar with various coloring systems depending on the coloring requirements. For permanent, intense colorings with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. These oxidation colorants are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results.

[0006] The oxidation dye precursors (developers and couplers) themselves are not colored; rather, the actual dyes are formed during application through contact between the oxidation dye precursors and the oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide). In a chemical reaction, the developers used as oxidation dye precursors (such as p-phenylenediamine or its derivatives) are first oxidatively converted by hydrogen peroxide into a reactive intermediate, also called quinoneimine or quinonediimine. This intermediate then reacts with the couplers in an oxidative coupling reaction to form the respective dye.

[0007] With oxidative colorants, hair can be colored in both intense, fashionable shades and natural tones by selecting the appropriate developer and coupler components. A major application for oxidative colorants is the coloring of gray hair in a natural shade that resembles the hair color the user had in their younger years. Experts recognize the use of developers based on the parent compound 1,4-diaminobenzene (para-phenylenediamine) and couplers with a resorcinol structure (1,3-dihydroxybenzene) as a classic combination for creating oxidative colorings in the brown to dark blonde range.

[0008] These oxidation dyes have been used for decades. Although they are intended only for extracorporeal application on keratin fibers such as scalp hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, contact of the dye with the scalp cannot be completely avoided during application. To ensure the highest possible product safety for customers, commercially available oxidation dye precursors are continuously tested for their physiological compatibility, for example, by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP), an advisory body of the European Commission. It is known that some oxidation dye precursors, particularly some of the para-phenylenediamine oxidation bases, may have a certain sensitization potential.Therefore, clients are advised to conduct a preliminary test with a small amount of the dye on their skin before applying the dye to their hair to rule out allergic reactions during or after the dyeing process. In addition to skin sensitization, other physiological effects are also monitored.

[0009] Resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, and 2-methylresorcinol are common oxidative dye precursors with a 1,3-dihydroxybenzene parent structure. In its latest opinion of March 2021, the SCCP concluded that the use of resorcinol in oxidative hair dyes is considered safe at a resorcinol concentration of up to 1.25% by weight in the ready-to-use mixture. The SCCP mentioned that resorcinol has antithyroid effects. While a clear exposure level required for such an effect cannot be derived from the available human studies, most of these studies indicate a relatively much higher exposure than is the case for cosmetics.

[0010] To address the concerns of some consumers regarding product safety, the objective of the present invention was to provide an agent for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, especially human hair, capable of covering a broad color spectrum, particularly a natural color palette with cool natural tones and warm natural tones, as well as a gold color series that results in colorations with high fastness properties without compromising product safety. In particular, coloring in these natural shades should be possible without the use of recorcinol-type couplers.

[0011] Many users dye their hair the same shade for decades and do not want a sudden, overtly visible change in their usual hair color. For these users, it is therefore essential to be able to replace the usual resorcinol-containing hair dye with a new, resorcinol-free product without a shift in shade. A central challenge of the present application was therefore to find a new, resorcinol-free hair dye whose color output and color result match the resorcinol-containing dye used previously as closely as possible.

[0012] Surprisingly, it has now been found that this task can be excellently solved by an oxidative dyeing agent which contains an oxidation dye precursor of the developer type (a), isatin (b) and at least one complexing agent (c) from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0013] A first subject of the present invention is an agent for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier

[0014] (a) at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor, and

[0015] (b) Isatin and

[0016] (c) at least one complexing agent from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0017] The work leading to this invention has shown that the oxidative coloring of hair using a developer (a) in combination with isatin (b) leads to very intensive colorations with outstanding fastness properties if a complexing agent (c) from the aforementioned special group (c) is also used in the coloring agent.

[0018] Keratin fibers

[0019] Keratin fibers generally include all animal hair, such as wool, horsehair, angora hair, fur, feathers, and products or textiles made from them. However, keratin fibers are preferably human hair.

[0020] Oxidative dyeing agents

[0021] The term "agent for oxidative coloring" of keratin fibers used in the invention refers to oxidative colorants. Oxidative colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developers and couplers. The developers and couplers diffuse separately into the keratin fibers and, under the influence of an alkalizing agent (e.g., ammonia) and an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide), form the actual dyes through a chemical reaction. Depending on the amount of oxidizing agent used, the keratin fibers are lightened to a greater or lesser extent during the coloring process, since the oxidizing agent not only initiates the dye formation process of the developers and couplers, but also oxidatively destroys the hair's own pigments (melanins).Depending on the amounts of oxidation dye precursors and oxidizing agent used, oxidative dyeing can therefore primarily involve coloring (with a high dye content) or primarily lightening (with a high oxidizing agent content). In the latter case, the oxidation dye precursors are used primarily to shade the lightening result.

[0022] The compositions according to the invention contain the essential ingredients in a cosmetic carrier, preferably a suitable aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. For the purpose of hair coloring, such carriers include, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations, or other preparations suitable for application to the hair.

[0023] The oxidative dye described above is a ready-to-use dye which, in this form containing the components (a) and (b) and (c), is applied to the keratin fibres for application.

[0024] Developer-type oxidation dye precursors (a) Oxidative dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developers and couplers, for the coloration process. Developers and couplers diffuse separately into the keratin fibers and, under the influence of ammonia as an alkalizing agent and an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide), chemically react with each other to form the actual dyes. Depending on the amount of oxidizing agent used, the keratin fibers are lightened to a greater or lesser extent during the coloring process, as the oxidizing agent not only initiates the dye formation process of developers and couplers, but also oxidatively destroys the hair's own pigments (melanins).Depending on the amounts of oxidation dye precursors and oxidizing agent used, oxidative dyeing can therefore primarily involve coloring (with a high dye content) or primarily lightening (with a high oxidizing agent content). In the latter case, the oxidation dye precursors are used primarily to shade the lightening result.

[0025] As a first essential component, the oxidative colorants according to the invention contain at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type, also referred to as developer for short.

[0026] Particularly suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are selected from the group of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0027] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of developer type (a) selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, and their physiologically acceptable salts. p-Toluenediamine is alternatively also referred to as 2,5-toluenediamine, p-toluenediamine (abbreviation: PTD), 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, or 2,5-diaminomethylbenzene. PTD has the CAS number 95-70-5.

[0028] 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine is alternatively known as 2-methoxymethyl-1,4-benzenediamine and, in its free base form, has the CAS number 337906-36-2. 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine is alternatively known as 2-(2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol and, in its free base form, has the CAS number 93841-24-8.

[0029] N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine in the form of its free base has the CAS number 7575-35-1.

[0030] Using an oxidative dye containing a developer (a) from the aforementioned group with a basic structure of 1,4-diaminobenzene, hair could be dyed with very high intensity in natural shades, particularly dark brown, medium brown, and dark blonde. Particularly surprising was that the hair could be dyed in a shade that was particularly similar to the shade obtained with a dye containing the classic combination of PDT and resorcinol.

[0031] The agents which have proven particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are those which contain at least one oxidation dye precursor of developer type (a) which is selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0032] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of developer type (a) which is selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0033] For the creation of shades with a reddish natural tone range, the agent according to the invention can also contain other developers (a). Developers from the group consisting of 4-amino-3-methylphenol, p-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, and their physiologically acceptable salts are particularly suitable for this purpose. These developers can be used either as a standalone group or in combination with one or more developers with a basic structure of p-phenylenediamine.

[0034] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of developer type (a) which is selected from the group consisting of 4-amino-3-methylphenol, p-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts. In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of developer type (a) which is selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, p-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0035] The developers of the above-mentioned groups can be used in the agent according to the invention in the form of their free base or in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts. A physiologically acceptable salt is understood to be a salt of the developer that is well tolerated by the user under physiological conditions, i.e., during application of the agent. Physiologically acceptable salts are, in particular, the chlorides, bromides, sulfates, and hemisulfates of the developers (a).

[0036] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of developer type (a) which is selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, p-toluenediamine sulfate, p-toluenediamine chloride, p-toluenediamine bromide, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine chloride and 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine bromide, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole chloride, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole bromide and 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole sulfate.

[0037] Depending on the desired color outcome, it may further be preferred if the agent additionally contains one or more further oxidation dye precursors of the developer type, which are selected from the group bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0038] The developer(s) are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the agent according to the invention. The agent preferably contains—based on the total weight of the agent—one or more oxidation dye precursors of developer type (a) in a total amount of 0.001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 to 6.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, and most preferably from 0.15 to 4.7 wt. %. In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains—based on the total weight of the agent—one or more oxidation dye precursors of developer type (a) in a total amount of 0.001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 to 6.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. % and most preferably from 0.15 to 4.7 wt. %.

[0039] Isatin

[0040] The oxidative dye contains isatin (b) as a second essential component of the invention. Isatin is the

[0041] Compound of formula (ISA), which can alternatively be referred to as 2,3-indoline-dione or 2,3-dioxoindoline

[0042] Isatin has the CAS number 91-56-5.

[0043] To optimally achieve the objective of the invention, isatin (b) is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in specific amounts. Particularly good results were obtained when the composition contained, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.% of isatin (b).

[0044] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.% of isatin (b).

[0045] Isatin can be purchased commercially from various suppliers such as Acros, Sigma Aldrich, Thermo Scientific, etc.

[0046] Weight ratio of developer (a) to isatin (b) in the product. The resulting shade on the hair when dyeing depends on both the amount of developer(s) (a) used and the amount of isatin (b) contained in the product. As is known from standard dyeing practice, the higher the amounts of developer (a) and isatin (b) used, the greater the intensity of the color. However, the naturalness of the resulting color can be controlled by the ratio in which the developers of group (a) and isatin (b) are used in the oxidative dye.

[0047] The colorations produced on the hair had a particularly high similarity to the colorations obtained with resorcinol-type couplers when the agent contained the developer (a) and isatin (b) in a weight ratio of 2:1 to 1:2, preferably 1.9:1 to 1:1, more preferably 1.9:1 to 1.1:1, even more preferably 1.8:1 to 1.1:1 and most preferably 1.7:1 to 1.2:1. This effect was observed in particular with darker natural shades such as dark brown and medium blonde.

[0048] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the weight ratio of all developers of group (a) contained in the agent to the isatin (b) contained in the agent, ie the weight ratio (a) / (b), is from 2:1 to 1:2, preferably from 1.9:1 to 1:1, more preferably from 1.9:1 to 1.1:1, even more preferably from 1.8:1 to 1.1:1 and most preferably from 1.7:1 to 1.2:1.

[0049] For the preferred weight ratio (a) / (b) of 1.9:1 to 1:1, for example, the developer(s) (a) is used either in the same amount as isatin (b) or in an average weight excess of up to 1.9 times. Most preferably, the developers (a) are used in a weight excess of 1.2 to 1.7 times compared to isatin (b). Further couplers (d) in the oxidative dyeing agent

[0050] For the precise shading and / or fine adjustment of the desired color tone, the oxidative colorant may contain further couplers (d) in addition to the oxidation dye precursor(s) of developer type (a) and isatin (b).

[0051] Other very suitable couplers can be selected, for example, from the group of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino- benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline,7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0052] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type (d) which is selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzene, 1-amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3- methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene,4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0053] Particularly natural shades with great similarity to the corresponding resorcinol-containing dyes could be obtained when the dye additionally contained one or more couplers (d) selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 6-hydroxyindole, or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically acceptable salts. For this reason, the use of couplers (d) from this group is explicitly particularly preferred.

[0054] In an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type (d) selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 6-hydroxyindole, or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically acceptable salts. The couplers from the above-described group (d) are also preferably used in certain quantitative ranges in the composition according to the invention. Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type (d) in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.%.

[0055] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type (d) in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably of 0.1 to 3.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably of 0.15 to 2.5 wt.%.

[0056] No resorcinol-type couplers

[0057] As already described above, the agents of the present application were intended to develop intensive dyeings in the natural tone range which imitate the nuances produced with resorcinol-containing dyeing agents as closely as possible, without having to rely on the use of resorcinol-type couplers.

[0058] Resorcinol-type couplers, or couplers from the resorcinol group, are understood to be 1,3-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives. Derivatives of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene are all compounds that have a 1,3-dihydroxybenzene basic structure and carry additional substituents, although both hydroxy groups of the 1,3-dihydroxybenzene must still be present.

[0059] The couplers from the resorcinol group that are standardly used in commercial products are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol. Couplers from the resorcinol group are therefore understood to mean, in particular, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol. These couplers are to be omitted from the compositions of the present application; therefore, it is preferred if the total amount of oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type from the resorcinol group, in particular from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol, contained in the composition is below 0.1% by weight, preferably below 0.05% by weight, particularly preferably below 0.01% by weight, and most preferably 0% by weight.

[0060] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the composition - the total amount of the oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type from the group of resorcinols, in particular from the group of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol, contained in the composition is below 0.1 wt.%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, particularly preferably below 0.01 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 0 wt.%. Direct dyes

[0061] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can optionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.

[0062] The direct dyes are preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt.%, in particular 0.05 to 5 wt.%, based on the total application preparation. The total amount of direct dyes is preferably at most 3 wt.%.

[0063] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes, which are selected and used by the expert according to the requirements of the carrier base.

[0064] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Bromophenol Blue, Tetrabromophenol Blue, Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52.

[0065] Bevorzugte kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe sind Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 und Basic Red 51.

[0066] Nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes are particularly suitable as nonionic direct dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "Dye Dye" and "Dye Dye" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2- nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxy- ethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1- methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'- Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4- tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro- 4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0067] Wasserstoffperoxid (e)

[0068] For the formation of the colors in the oxidative dyeing process, the oxidative colorant according to the invention preferably contains at least one oxidizing agent (e), which is particularly preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or the addition products of hydrogen peroxide with organic or inorganic compounds.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, hydrogen peroxide itself is used as an aqueous solution in the oxidative colorant. The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined, on the one hand, by legal requirements and, on the other hand, by the desired effect; preferably, 6 to 12 wt.% solutions in water are used. Oxidative solutions preferred according to the invention are characterized by containing 0.5 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 10 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3 to 8 wt.% hydrogen peroxide, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative colorant.

[0070] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one oxidizing agent (e) from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide and its addition products with organic or inorganic compounds.

[0071] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - 0.5 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 10 wt.% and particularly preferably 3 to 8 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (e).

[0072] Complexing agent (c)

[0073] As a third component essential to the invention, the oxidative coloring agents according to the invention contain at least one complexing agent (c) from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0074] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid and its salts are often abbreviated to EDDS in the literature. EDDS can be used in the form of its free acid or as the monosodium salt, disodium salt, trisodium salt, or tetrasodium salt. The corresponding potassium salts can also be used and are particularly preferred.

[0075] The trisodium salt of ethylenediamine disuccinate is alternatively known in its (S,S) form as ethylenediamine N,N' disuccinic acid trisodium salt *(S,S), has the CAS number 178949-82-1, and can be purchased commercially, for example, under the trade name Natrlquest E 30 from Innospec Limited. Another alternative name for the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine disuccinate is N,N'-1,2-ethanediylbis-L-aspartic acid, trisodium salt. The substance can also be purchased from Innospec under the trade names Enviomet C 140 and Octaquest E 30.

[0076] The free acid of this compound is called ethylenediamine disuccinic acid. Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid has the CAS number 20846-91-7 and can also be referred to as / V, / V-1,2-ethanediylbis-L-aspartic acid or ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.

[0077] L-Glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid is abbreviated as GLDA in the literature and has the CAS number 51981-21-6. GLDA has the formula (KOM-I).

[0078] GLDA salts, such as the monosodium salt, the disodium salt, and the tetrasodium salt, are also within the scope of the invention. The tetrasodium salt of L-glutamic acid-A / ,A / -diacetic acid is referred to as tetrasodium-A / ,A / -bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate (GLDA-Na4).

[0079] N,N-Bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA) is alternatively referred to as 2-methyl-2',2",2"'-nitrilotriacetic acid and abbreviated to MGDA. MGDA has the CAS number 29578-05-0 and can be purchased commercially from various suppliers, for example, ABClabtory Scientific Co. Ltd, Chemieliva Pharmaceutical Co. Ltd, SIA "Chemspace," or Hong Kong Chemhere Co. Ltd. MGDA has the formula (KOM II). Physiologically acceptable salts of MGDA, such as the sodium salts, potassium salts, or ammonium salts, are also within the scope of the invention.

[0080] 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts are also suitable complexing agents.

[0081] Agents containing ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), and / or their physiologically acceptable salts showed particularly good color results. For this reason, oxidative dyes containing these complexing agents (c) are particularly preferred.

[0082] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (c) from the group of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA) and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0083] At the alkaline pH values ​​of the treatment solutions required according to the invention, these complexing agents are present at least partially as anions. It is irrelevant whether they are introduced in the form of acids or salts. When used as salts, alkali, ammonium, or alkylammonium salts, especially sodium salts, are preferred. The complexing agents from the above-described group (c) are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the agent according to the invention.

[0084] For example, the coloring agents may contain one or more complexing agents in a total amount of 0.05 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, wherein the data in wt.% are based in each case on the total weight of the agent.

[0085] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more complexing agents (c) in a total amount of 0.05 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.15 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0086] Alkalizing agent

[0087] Dyeing processes on keratin fibers typically take place in an alkaline environment. However, to protect the keratin fibers and the skin as much as possible, setting an excessively high pH is undesirable. Therefore, it is preferred if the pH of the ready-to-use agent is between 6 and 11, especially between 7 and 10.5. The pH values ​​used in the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22°C.

[0088] The work leading to this invention has shown that particularly good color results were obtained when an alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine was used in the colorant according to the invention. For this reason, it is also preferred if the colorant according to the invention contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine.

[0089] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.

[0090] By using the suitable or preferred alkalizing agent(s), the pH value suitable for the oxidative dyeing process can be adjusted in the dyeing agent according to the invention, which pH value is in the range from 6.5 to 11.5, preferably from 8.5 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably from 9.0 to 10.5.

[0091] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains water and has a pH value of 6.5 to 11.5, preferably of 8.5 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 9.0 to 10.5.

[0092] For precise pH adjustment, the coloring agent may contain one or more acidifying agents in addition to the alkalizing agents. Preferred acidifying agents according to the invention are food acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, or tartaric acid, as well as diluted mineral acids. The pH values ​​within the meaning of the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22 °C. Other ingredients in the product

[0093] Preferably, an emulsifier or a surfactant is further added to the oxidative coloring agents, whereby surface-active substances are referred to as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the field of application and are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

[0094] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one surfactant selected from the group of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and non-ionic surfactants.

[0095] Suitable anionic surfactants for use on the human body in the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in the form of the sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as the mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

[0096] Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO(CH2CH2O) X CH2COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

[0097] Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

[0098] Acyltaurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

[0099] Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms, linear a-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms,

[0100] Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, a-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms,

[0101] Alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates of the formula RO(CH2CH2O) X SO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

[0102] Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers,

[0103] Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

[0104] O

[0105] RO(C2H4O)- P— OR' OH in which R preferably represents an aliphatic, optionally unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R' represents hydrogen, a radical (CH2CH2O) y R and x and y independently represent a number from 1 to 10, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RC(O)O(alkO) nSO3H, in which R is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, alk is CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 and / or CH2CHCH3 and n is a number from 0.5 to 5,

[0106] Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

[0107] Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.

[0108] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate; N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate; and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

[0109] Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C5-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO5H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each containing approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C12-C18-acylsarcosine.

[0110] Furthermore, it has proven advantageous if the coloring and brightening agents according to the invention contain additional non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as a hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example,

[0111] Addition products of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, such as, for example, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, but also stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl alcohol, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, with a methyl or C2-Ce-alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, such as those sold under the following names: Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis) available types,

[0112] Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, such as poly(3)glycerol diisostearate (commercial product: Lameform®TGI (Henkel)) and poly(2)glycerol polyhydroxystearate

[0113] (Trade product: Dehymuls®PGPH (Henkel)).

[0114] Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis), higher alkoxylated, preferably propoxylated and especially ethoxylated, mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, amine oxides,

[0115] Hydroxy mixed ethers, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates and sorbitan monolaurate + 20 mol ethylene oxide (EO), sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,

[0116] Alkylphenols and alkylphenol alkoxylates having 6 to 21, in particular 6 to 15, carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units. Preferred representatives of this class are, for example, nonylphenol + 9 EO and octylphenol + 8 EO;

[0117] Alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO-(Z) X , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar, and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides usable according to the invention can contain only one specific alkyl radical R. However, these compounds are usually prepared from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures depending on the starting compounds or the respective processing of these compounds.

[0118] C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues are particularly suitable as nonionic surfactants. Non-ethoxylated compounds, in particular, have proven particularly suitable.

[0119] Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides of the formula RO-(Z) X in which R consists essentially of Cs and Cw alkyl groups, essentially of C12 and Cu alkyl groups, essentially of Cs to Cw alkyl groups or essentially of C12 to Cw alkyl groups or essentially of Cw to Cw alkyl groups.

[0120] These compounds are characterized by the fact that any mono- or oligosaccharide can be used as the sugar building block Z. Typically, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars include, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose, and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, and sucrose; glucose is particularly preferred.

[0121] The alkyl polyglycosides usable according to the invention contain, on average, 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values ​​of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8 are very particularly preferred. The alkoxylated homologues of the aforementioned alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain, on average, up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

[0122] Other preferred nonionic surfactants have proven to be alkylene oxide addition products with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerin as nonionic surfactants.

[0123] Particularly preferred non-ionic surfactants are substances that are commercially available in pure form as solids or liquids due to their ease of processing. The definition of purity in this context does not refer to chemically pure compounds. Rather, mixtures of different homologues can be used, particularly in the case of naturally derived products, for example, mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths, as is the case with products based on natural fats and oils. Alkoxylated products also usually contain mixtures of different degrees of alkoxylation. In this context, the term purity refers rather to the fact that the selected substances should preferably be free of solvents, suspending agents, and other accompanying substances.

[0124] For surfactants that are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. "Normal" homolog distribution refers to mixtures of homologs obtained from the reaction of fatty alcohols and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides, or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. Narrow homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides, or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

[0125] The anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic, or amphoteric surfactants are used in amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1 to 30 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 1 to 15 wt.%, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent. Also preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound, esterquat, and amidoamine type. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Other cationic surfactants usable according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates.

[0126] Alkylamidoamines are typically produced by amidating natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines and are characterized not only by their good conditioning effect but also by their good biodegradability. A particularly suitable compound from this group of substances is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, commercially available under the name Tegoamid® S 18.

[0127] Quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats," are also highly biodegradable. Esterquats are well-known substances that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, and Armocare®. The products Armocare® VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, and Dehyquart® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

[0128] The cationic surfactants are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt.%, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt.% are particularly preferred.

[0129] In a preferred embodiment, non-ionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.

[0130] In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be enhanced by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example, addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids having 12 to 22 C atoms, and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group.

[0131] Ci2-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular with glycerol,

[0132] Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

[0133] Cs-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerisation of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov®68,

[0134] Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0135] Sterols, where sterols are defined as a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at the 3-carbon atom of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from both animal tissue (zoosterols) and plant fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol, and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

[0136] Phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans),

[0137] Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol

[0138] Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® PGPH)

[0139] Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

[0140] The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.

[0141] Nonionic emulsifiers or surfactants with an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. Among the emulsifier types mentioned, emulsifiers that do not contain ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the molecule may be particularly preferred.

[0142] Further studies have shown that the oxidative formation of intense colorations from components (a) and (b) works particularly well in cosmetic carrier formulations that do not have an excessively high content of fatty components. A strong color lift was observed, in particular, when—based on the total weight of the product—the total amount of fatty components contained in the product was below 25 wt.%, preferably below 20 wt.%, more preferably below 15 wt.%, and most preferably below 13 wt.%.

[0143] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent - the total amount of the fat components contained in the agent is below 25% by weight, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 15% by weight and most preferably below 13% by weight.

[0144] For the purposes of the invention, fat components are understood to mean organic compounds having a solubility in water at room temperature (22 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

[0145] The definition of fatty components explicitly includes only uncharged (i.e., non-ionic) compounds. Fat components contain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 8 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fatty components is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fatty components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.

[0146] In this context, fatty components are understood to be components from the group of C12-C30 fatty alcohols, C12-C30 fatty acid triglycerides, and / or hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only non-ionic substances are explicitly considered fatty components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered fatty components.

[0147] Ci2-C30 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 30 C atoms.

[0148] Examples of preferred linear, saturated Ci2-C30 fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosane-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosane-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).

[0149] Linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are, for example, (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol).

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, a C12-C30 fatty acid triglyceride is understood to be the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can participate in the ester formation.

[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, fatty acids are saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C12-C30 carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In an unsaturated fatty acid, its C-C double bond(s) can have the cis or trans configuration.

[0152] Fatty acid triglycerides can be, for example, esters starting from glycerol with a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-lcosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0153] The fatty acid triglycerides can also be of natural origin. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides found in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil, or mixtures thereof, are corresponding natural fatty acid triglycerides.

[0154] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms and containing 8 to 80 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred in this context are aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., paraffinium liquidum or paraffinum perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (paraffinum solidum), petrolatum, and polydecenes.

[0155] Liquid paraffin oils (Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinium Perliquidum) have proven particularly suitable in this context. The hydrocarbon used is particularly preferred: Paraffinum Liquidum, also known as white oil. Paraffinum Liquidum is a mixture of purified, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbons, consisting primarily of hydrocarbon chains with a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.

[0156] The colorants according to the invention preferably contain other auxiliaries and additives. Thus, it has proven preferable according to the invention for the agents to contain at least one thickener. There are no fundamental restrictions regarding these thickeners. Both organic and purely inorganic thickeners can be used.

[0157] According to a first preferred embodiment, the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer. Preferred anionic groups are the carboxylate and sulfonate groups.

[0158] Examples of anionic monomers that can be used in polymeric anionic thickeners are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic anhydride, and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present, in whole or in part, as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono-, or triethanolammonium salts. Preferred monomers are maleic anhydride and, in particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

[0159] Preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose, and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are commercially available, for example, under the trademark Carbopol®. Also preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik®11-80.

[0160] Within this first embodiment, it may further be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, itaconic acid mono- and diesters, vinylpyrrolidinone, vinyl ethers, and vinyl esters.

[0161] The anionic acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, particularly preferably 1 to 5 wt. %, based in each case on the weight of the agent. Preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C1-C8-alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers. A preferred commercial product, for example, is Aculyn® 33 from Rohm & Haas. Also preferred are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C1-C8-alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid. Suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular Steareth-20 or Ceteth-20.Such copolymers are marketed by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Aculyn® 22 and by National Starch under the trade names Structure® 2001 and Structure® 3001.

[0162] Preferred anionic copolymers are also acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and, in particular, polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, with the sulfonic acid group being present wholly or partially as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono-, or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxythane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol, and methylenebisacrylamide being preferred as crosslinking agents. One such polymer is contained in the commercial products Sepigel® 305 and Simulgel® 600 from SEPPIC.The use of these compounds, which contain, in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (C13-C14 paraffin or isohexadecane) and a non-ionic emulsifier (Laureth-7 or Polysorbate-80), has proven particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching of the invention.

[0163] Polymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also preferred thickeners. A maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially available under the name Stabileze® QM.

[0164] According to a further embodiment, the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-C4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their derivatives have proven particularly suitable.

[0165] Homopolymers of the general formula (HP-1), in which R1 = -H or -CH3, R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from Ci-C4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (HP-1) and non-ionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymeric gel formers. Within the scope of these polymers, those for which at least one of the following conditions applies are preferred according to the invention:

[0166] R1 stands for a methyl group

[0167] R2, R3 and R4 represent methyl groups m has the value 2,

[0168] Physiologically acceptable counterions X- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions, and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate, and acetate ions. Halide ions, especially chloride, are preferred.

[0169] A particularly suitable homopolymer is poly(methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37, which can be crosslinked if desired. Crosslinking can be achieved, if desired, using polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example, divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose, or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

[0170] The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion, which should have a polymer content of not less than 30 wt.%. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) and Salcare® SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6). Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (HP-1) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C1-C4 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C1-C4 alkyl esters as non-ionic monomer units.Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above for the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacroyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers, in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of approximately 20:80, are commercially available as an approximately 50% nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare® SC 92.

[0171] In a further preferred embodiment, naturally occurring thickeners are used. Preferred thickeners in this embodiment are, for example, nonionic guar gums. Both modified and unmodified guar gums can be used according to the invention. Unmodified guar gums are sold, for example, under the trade name Jaguar® C by Rhone Poulenc. Modified guar gums preferred according to the invention contain C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl groups. The groups hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl are preferred. Guar gums modified in this way are known in the art and can be produced, for example, by reacting the guar gums with alkylene oxides. The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed in relation to the number of free hydroxyl groups in the guar gums, is preferably between 0.4 and 1.2.Guar gums modified in this way are commercially available from Rhone Poulenc under the trade names Jaguar® HP8, Jaguar® HP60, Jaguar® HP120, Jaguar® DC 293 and Jaguar® HP105.

[0172] Further suitable natural thickeners are also already known from the state of the art.

[0173] According to this embodiment, further preferred are biosaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucangums or xanthan gums, gums from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses.

[0174] Preferred hydroxyalkylcelluloses are, in particular, the hydroxyethylcelluloses marketed under the names Cellosize® by Amerchol and Natrosol® by Hercules. Suitable carboxyalkylcelluloses are, in particular, the carboxymethylcelluloses marketed under the names Blanose® by Aquaion, Aquasorb® and Ambergum® by Hercules, and Cellgon® by Montello.

[0175] Starch and its derivatives are also preferred. Starch is a storage substance in plants, found primarily in tubers and roots, cereal seeds, and fruits, and can be obtained in high yields from a variety of plants. The polysaccharide, which is insoluble in cold water and forms a colloidal solution in boiling water, can be obtained, for example, from potatoes, cassava, sweet potatoes, arrowroot, corn, cereals, rice, legumes such as peas and beans, bananas, or the pith of certain palm varieties (e.g., the sago palm). Natural, plant-derived starches and / or chemically or physically modified starches can be used according to the invention. Modification can be achieved, for example, by introducing different functional groups to one or more of the hydroxyl groups of the starch.Typically, these are esters, ethers, or amides of starch with optionally substituted C1-C40 residues. Particularly advantageous is corn starch etherified with a 2-hydroxypropyl group, such as that sold by National Starch under the trade name Amaze®.

[0176] However, nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone, can also be used as thickeners according to the invention. Preferred nonionic, fully synthetic polymers are marketed, for example, by BASF under the trade name Luviskol®. In addition to their excellent thickening properties, such nonionic polymers also enable a significant improvement in the sensory feel of the resulting preparations.

[0177] Phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) have proven particularly suitable as inorganic thickeners for the purposes of the present invention. Clays, especially magnesium aluminum silicates such as bentonite, especially smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally also be suitably modified, and synthetic phyllosilicates, such as the magnesium phyllosilicate marketed by Süd Chemie under the trade name Optigel®, are particularly preferred.

[0178] To further enhance the performance of the oxidative coloring agents, at least one optionally hydrated SiO2 compound is preferably added. According to the invention, it may be preferred to use the optionally hydrated SiO2 compounds in amounts of 0.05 wt.% to 15 wt.%, particularly preferably in amounts of 0.15 wt.% to 10 wt.%, and most preferably in amounts of 0.2 wt.% to 5 wt.%, in each case based on the agents according to the invention. The amounts indicated in each case reflect the content of the SiO2 compounds (excluding their water content) in the agents.

[0179] With regard to the optionally hydrated SiO2 compounds, the present invention is in principle subject to no restrictions. Preference is given to silicas, their oligomers and polymers, and their salts. Preferred salts are the alkali metal salts, especially the potassium and sodium salts. The sodium salts are very particularly preferred.

[0180] The optionally hydrated SiO2 compounds can be present in various forms. According to the invention, the SiO2 compounds are preferably used in the form of silica gel or, more preferably, as water glass. These SiO2 compounds can be present partially in aqueous solution.

[0181] According to the invention, very particular preference is given to water glasses formed from a silicate of the formula (SiO2)n(Na2O)m(K2O)p, where n is a positive rational number and m and p independently of one another are a positive rational number or 0, with the provisos that at least one of the parameters m or p is different from 0 and the ratio between n and the sum of m and p is between 1:4 and 4:1. Preference is given to metasilicates in which the ratio between n and the sum of m and p is 1:2 or less.

[0182] In addition to the components described by the molecular formula, the water glasses may contain small amounts of other additives, such as phosphates or magnesium salts.

[0183] Water glasses particularly preferred according to the invention are marketed, inter alia, by Henkel under the names Ferrosil® 119, Sodium Water Glass 40 / 42, Portil® A, Portil® AW and Portil® W and by Akzo under the name Britesil® C20.

[0184] The oxidative colorants are preferably packaged as flowable preparations.

[0185] Furthermore, the agents according to the invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes;Silicones such as volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, cross-linked or non-cross-linked polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones or cyclomethicones), polyarylsiloxanes and / or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, in particular polysiloxanes with organofunctional groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted amines (amodimethicones), carboxyl, alkoxy and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethicone copolyols), linear polysiloxane(A)-polyoxyalkylene(B) block copolymers, grafted silicone polymers with a non-silicone-containing, organic backbone or with a polysiloxane backbone, such as, for example, the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa, marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 Dimethicone, or mixtures thereof; cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride;

[0186] Copolymers, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide / acrylate( / methacrylate) copolymers, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride

[0187] Copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / Nt-butyl acrylamide terpolymers, other thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,

[0188] Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins as well as silicone oils, perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

[0189] Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, defoamers such as silicones,

[0190] Dyes to color the product,

[0191] Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

[0192] Amino acids and oligopeptides, especially arginine and / or serine,

[0193] Animal and / or plant-based protein hydrolysates, such as elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, or almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives, vegetable oils, for example macadamia nut oil, kukui nut oil, palm oil, amaranth seed oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, evening primrose oil and tea tree oil

[0194] Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, substances for adjusting the pH value, such as common acids, in particular food acids and bases,

[0195] Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts as well as bisabolol,

[0196] Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols;

[0197] Ceramides, preferably the sphingolipids such as ceramide I, ceramide II, ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 5 and ceramide 6, or pseudoceramides, such as in particular N-(Cs-C22-acyl)-(C8-C22-acyl)-hydroxyproline,

[0198] Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, especially those of groups A, Bs, Bs, Be, C, E, F and H,

[0199] Plant extracts such as extracts from aloe vera, angelica, anise, apricot, benzoin, bergamot, birch, nettle, calmus, cassis, costus, marshmallow, oak bark, elemi, tarragon, spruce needle, galbanum, geranium, ginseng, grapefruit, guaiac wood, green tea, witch hazel, restharrow, hops, coltsfoot, ginger root, iris, jasmine, chamomile, cardamom, clover, burdock root, pine, kiwi, coconut, coriander, caraway, mountain pine, lavender, lemongrass, lily, lime, linden blossom, lychee, mace, mallow, almond, mango, lemon balm, melon, meristem, myrrh, neroli, olibanum, opoponax, orange, patchouli, petitgrain, pine, wild thyme, rooibos, rose, rosemary, horse chestnut, sandalwood, Sage, horsetail, yarrow, celery, fir, thyme, juniper, vine leaves, hawthorn, wheat, meadowfoam, ylang-ylang, cedar and lemon.

[0200] Cholesterol,

[0201] Consistency agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

[0202] Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

[0203] Fatty acid alkanolamides, swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

[0204] Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, pigments,

[0205] Stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, antioxidants.

[0206] The specialist will select these additional substances according to the desired properties of the product.

[0207] With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g., Kh. Schrader, Principles and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989.

[0208] The additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.0005 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

[0209] Multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts)

[0210] The agents according to the invention are agents for oxidatively coloring or coloring and lightening hair. In the ready-to-use agent, the oxidation dye precursors react with the oxidizing agent to form the actual dyes. The agents according to the invention are therefore usually formulated as multi-component agents, usually as two-component agents. The first component contains the oxidation dye precursors (a) and isatin (b), which is mixed shortly before use with a second component containing the oxidizing agent (e) and the complexing agent(s) (c). The two components are usually mixed with one another in a ratio of 1:3 to 3:1, preferably 1:2 to 2:1.This mixture of the component containing color cream and optionally alkalizing agent (preparation A) and the component containing oxidizing agent (preparation B) is referred to as the application mixture or the ready-to-use agent. A second subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising, separately packaged, a first container containing a coloring agent (F).

[0211] (a) at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor, and

[0212] (b) Isatin and a second container with an oxidizing agent composition (Ox) containing

[0213] (c) at least one complexing agent from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts, and

[0214] (e) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide and its adducts with organic or inorganic compounds, wherein components (a), (b), (c) and (e) have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

[0215] The colorant can alternatively also be called color cream.

[0216] Process for oxidative dyeing of keatin fibers

[0217] The oxidative coloring agent according to the invention of the first subject matter of the invention or the multi-component packaging unit, whose separately prepared components are used to produce this ready-to-use coloring agent, are excellently suited for use in corresponding dyeing processes

[0218] A further subject of the present invention is therefore a method for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratin fibers and rinsed out again after a contact time.

[0219] While the agent is working on the fiber, it can be advantageous to support the coloring process by applying heat. The heat can be supplied by an external heat source, such as warm air from a hot air blower, or, particularly when coloring hair on a live test subject, by the subject's body temperature. With the latter option, the area to be colored is usually covered with a hood. In particular, the temperature during the exposure time is between 10°C and 45°C, in particular between 20°C and 40°C. The colorants according to the invention produce intensive colors even at physiologically acceptable temperatures below 45°C. They are therefore particularly suitable for coloring human hair.

[0220] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit and method according to the invention, what has been said regarding the means according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Claims

Patent claims 1. Agent for oxidative dyeing of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier (a) at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor, and (b) Isatin and (c) at least one complexing agent from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor (a) selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, p-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the composition - one or more oxidation dye precursors of the developer type (a) in a total amount of 0.001 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 6.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.15 to 4.7 wt.%.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the composition - 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.% isatin (b).

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weight ratio of all developers of group (a) contained in the composition to the isatin (b) contained in the composition, i.e. the weight ratio (a) / (b), is in the range of 2:1 to 1:2, preferably 1.9:1 to 1:1, more preferably 1.9:1 to 1.1:1, even more preferably 1.8:1 to 1.1:1 and most preferably 1.7:1 to 1.2:1 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor (d) selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-amino- phenoxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1 ,3- Bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propan, 2,6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 1 -Amino-3-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6- methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin, 1-Phenyl- 3-methylpyrazol-5-on, 1 -Naphthol, 1 ,5-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,7-Di- hydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol, 7-Hydroxyindol, 4- Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin, 7-Hydroxyindolin oder Gemischen dieser Verbindungen oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen.A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more oxidation dye precursors of coupler type (d) in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.%. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that – based on the total weight of the composition – the total amount of couplers contained in the composition from the group of resorcinols, in particular from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol, is below 0.1 wt.%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, most preferably below 0.01 wt.%, and most preferably 0 wt.%.A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains at least one oxidizing agent (e) from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide and its addition products to organic or inorganic compounds. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (c) from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid, and other compounds. Contains N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA) and their physiologically acceptable salts. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more complexing agents (c) in a total amount of Contains 0.05 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that, based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of fat components contained in the composition is below 25% by weight, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 15% by weight, and most preferably below 13% by weight. A multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for the oxidative dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising separately assembled a first container with a dyeing agent (F), which contains (a) at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor, and (b) Isatin and a second container with an oxidizing agent composition (Ox) which contains (c) at least one complexing agent from the group consisting of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), L-glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (MGDA), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts, and (e) at least one oxidizing agent from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide and its adsorption products to organic or inorganic compounds, wherein the components (a), (b), (c) and (e) are defined in claims 1 to 13. A process for the oxidative dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to the keratinous fibers and rinsed off after a dwell time.

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