Hair conditioner for smoothing hair

Abstract

The invention relates to anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprising specific amounts of cationic surfactants and ester oils in an ethanolic base, which are suitable for the non-chemical straightening or detangling of hair.

Description

[0001]Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Dr. Ludwig “Hair conditioning agent for straightening hair” The present invention relates to a cosmetic agent for the non-chemical straightening or de-frizzing of hair, which agent comprises cationic surfactants and ester oils in an ethanolic base, and which can be applied as a spray. The present invention further relates to a method for the non-chemical straightening or de-frizzing of keratin fibers using the agent. Permanent hair shaping is usually carried out by mechanically shaping the fiber and fixing the shape using suitable aids. Before and / or after this shaping, the fiber is treated with a keratin-reducing preparation. After a rinsing process, the fiber is then treated with an oxidizing agent preparation in the so-called fixing step, rinsed, and after or during the fixing step, the shaping aids (curlers, curlers) are removed.If a mercaptan, such as ammonium thioglycolate, is used as a keratin-reducing component, it splits some of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule into -SH groups, resulting in softening of the hair fiber. During subsequent oxidative fixation, disulfide bridges are re-formed in the hair keratin, thus securing the keratin structure in the desired shape. Alternatively, sulfites can be used instead of mercaptans for hair deformation. Hydrogen sulfite solutions and / or sulfite solutions and / or disulfite solutions break down the disulfide bridges of the keratin in a sulfitolysis reaction according to the equation R – S – S – R + HSO3. (-) R – SH + R – S – SO3 (-)split, thereby softening the hair fiber. Reducing agents containing hydrogen sulfite, sulfite, or disulfite do not have the strong inherent odor of mercaptan-containing agents. As previously described, the splitting can be reversed in a fixing step with the help of an oxidizing agent, forming new disulfide bonds. Permanent straightening of keratin-containing fibers can be achieved in a similar way through the use of keratin-reducing and oxidizing compositions. In a corresponding process, the curly hair is either wound onto curlers with a large diameter, usually more than 15 mm, or the hair is combed straight under the influence of the keratin-reducing composition. Instead of the curler, it is also possible to smooth the fiber on a straightening board. Straightening boards are usually rectangular boards, e.g. made of plastic.Preferably, the fiber is coated with the keratin-reducing preparation. Another option for straightening hair is straightening with a hot iron. The permanent straightening described above involves chemical reduction and thus potentially permanent damage to the keratin fibers. Particularly if increased straightening is desired, this is usually accompanied by increased damage to the keratin-containing fibers. This is not always desirable, and therefore non-chemical methods for straightening hair are also known. Typically, a creamy emulsion containing care and conditioning substances is applied to the hair with a brush or similar device, and the hair is then straightened, for example, with a flat iron.This process is time-consuming and cumbersome, as the cream must first be evenly distributed through the hair with a brush, and the smoothing effect is not always satisfactory. It would therefore be desirable to have an easy-to-use, non-chemical straightening agent available that has a long-lasting straightening effect, allowing a greater number of washes without losing the smoothness. DE 10216216312 proposes a multi-phase, liquid product as a non-chemical straightening agent, in which the aqueous phase contains predominantly water and the conditioning phase predominantly silicones. However, water (and / or glycols in alternative formulations) is highly polar and can cause increased curl formation, particularly in wavy, curly, or frizzy hair.This can be particularly detrimental in dry hair, where a water-based (and / or glycol-based) straightening composition causes the blow-dried hair to recurl or wave. Furthermore, sustainability is of great importance in the formulation of novel cosmetic compositions, and efforts are being made to avoid the use of silicones as much as possible in their production. The object of the invention was therefore to provide a non-chemical straightening agent for hair fibers that offers an excellent, lasting straightening effect without requiring the use of silicones, and that is also easy to use.Surprisingly, it has now been found that a non-chemical, silicone-free straightening agent with low viscosity and a high proportion of caring and / or conditioning substances is both easy to apply by spraying and has an excellent straightening effect for non-chemical straightening agents. The present invention is therefore characterized by the following statements: 1. A cosmetic agent for the non-chemical straightening or de-frizzing of hair, containing a) 40-90% by weight of ethanol, b) 0.1-5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, c) 5-50% by weight of at least one ester oil, - wherein the agent contains less than 1% by weight of water and - wherein all amounts refer to the total weight of the agent. Agent according to statement 1, which has a viscosity in the range of 0 to 2000 mPas, preferably 100 to 800 mPas, more preferably 200 to 500 mPas (Brookfield RVDV-II+, 20°C, spindle 1, 100 rpm).A product according to any one of the preceding statements, which is transparent. A product according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of ethanol ranges from 50-85 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the product. A product according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of ethanol ranges from 60-80 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the product. A product according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each cationic surfactant b) ranges from 0.25-4 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the product. A product according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each cationic surfactant b) ranges from 0.5-3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the product. A product according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each cationic surfactant b) is selected from quaternary ammonium compounds.Agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each cationic surfactant b) is selected from C1-C24-alkyltri(C1-C4)-alkylammonium halide and / or methosulfate salts, preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and in particular from behenyltrimethylammonium salts containing a methosulfate and / or chloride ion as anion. Agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each ester oil c) ranges from 10-45 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the agent. Agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each ester oil c) ranges from 15-40 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the agent. Agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from carbonic acid esters, trifatty acid esters, esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 alcohols, or mixtures thereof.Agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C6-C12 fatty alcohols. Agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from carbonic acid esters known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate. Agent according to statement 12, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from trifatty acid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C12 fatty acids and glycerin. Agent according to statement 15, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from trifatty acid esters known under the INCI name Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride. 17. Agent according to statement 12, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from esters of C8-C24 fatty acids with branched C2-C10 alcohols. 18.Agent according to statement 17, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from esters known under the INCI name isopropyl myristate. 19. Agent according to one of the preceding statements, additionally containing at least one vegetable oil in a weight proportion of 0.01 - 5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the agent. 20. Agent according to one of the preceding statements, which is packaged as a spray. 21. Cosmetic, non-medicinal method for the non-chemical straightening or de-frizzing of hair, in which the agent according to one of the preceding statements is sprayed onto the hair and distributed in the hair, the hair is then dried and subsequently straightened under mechanical and / or thermal action. 22. Method according to statement 21, comprising the following steps: a. Washing the hair with a shampoo, b. Applying the straightening agent to the hair by spraying without prior drying of the hair, c.Straightening the hair under mechanical and / or thermal action. 23. The method according to claim 22, wherein after step c. the hair is no longer washed. The cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferably liquid. The term “liquid” refers according to the invention to the state of aggregation at 1013 mbar and 20°C. By “liquid” is meant that the agent has a viscosity such that it can be easily applied by spraying. The agent preferably has a viscosity of 0 to 2000 mPas, more preferably of 100 to 800 mPas and in particular of 200 to 500 mPas (measured with Brookfield RVDV-II+, 20°C, spindle 1, 100 rpm). The straightening agent is a solution that is preferably transparent to slightly cloudy and particularly preferably transparent.In the context of the present invention, “transparency” is understood to mean that the smoothing agent preferably has an NTU value (Nephelometric Turbidity Unit) of at most 100, preferably of at most 75, more preferably of at most 50 and in particular of at most 25 (measured, for example, with a Turbiquant type turbidimeter. ®from Merck). Since the presence of water can cause optical disadvantages in addition to the product-specific disadvantages mentioned above (for example, clouding due to insufficient solubilization of larger amounts of ester oils c) and / or perfume components), agents according to the invention comprise less than 1% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent. A maximum water content of <0.5% by weight is even more preferred, and the agents are particularly preferably free of water. According to the invention, "free of" means that no free water is added to the agents. Water as a by-product, which may be present in other ingredients or commercial products, is not included. For optimal product performance, it has been found to be preferable if ethanol is used in certain amounts - preferably in excess of the ester oil c).The agents according to the invention therefore particularly preferably comprise ethanol in a weight proportion of 50-85% and in particular 60-80% by weight of the total weight of the agent. To achieve a hair conditioning effect in addition to smoothing or defuzzing the hair fibers, the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain 0.1-5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant b). Suitable cationic surfactants for use in the agents according to the invention are preferably cationic surfactants with high hair care potential, a low foaming tendency and the lowest possible emulsifying power. Examples of cationic surfactants that can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are: - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, physiologically acceptable C1-C24-alkyltri(C1-C4)-alkylammonium salts, di-C1-C. 24 -Alkyldi(C1-C4)-alkylammonium salts or tri-C1-C24-Alkyl(C1-C4)-alkylammonium salts, for example halide and / or methosulfate salts, in particular chlorides, bromides and methosulfates, such as, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. Very particular preference is given to C1-C24-alkyltri(C1-C4)-alkylammonium halide and / or methosulfate salts, and in particular cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts which contain a methosulfate and / or a chloride ion as anion. - Esterquats which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex. ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® The products Armocare ® VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, and Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ®AU-35 are examples of such esterquats. - Amidoamines, permanently cationic amidoamines, and mixtures thereof. Particularly suitable amidoamines can be selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, or mixtures thereof. Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.Particularly suitable permanently cationic amidoamines can be selected from behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, canolamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, or mixtures thereof. Quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably used as cationic surfactants b), since they can be incorporated particularly well into the alcoholic base of the agents according to the invention.Particular preference is given to C1-C24-alkyltri(C1-C4)-alkylammonium halide and / or methosulfate salts, very particularly preferably cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and in particular behenyltrimethylammonium salts containing a methosulfate and / or chloride ion as the anion. The cationic surfactant(s) b) is / are used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in a weight proportion of 0.25-4 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.5-3 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. As a third essential component, the compositions according to the invention contain 5-50 wt.% of at least one ester oil, based on the total weight of the composition. It has been found that certain ester oils in the compositions according to the invention are outstandingly suitable for straightening or defrizzing hair, as well as for simultaneously caring for the hair fibers and the scalp.They can completely replace silicones (or mineral oils) while maintaining the effectiveness of corresponding compositions; treated hair appears smooth, shiny, and cared for, with a soft, non-greasy feel. Even after repeated use of the products according to the invention, no build-up effect weighing down the hair occurs. In a preferred embodiment, the products according to the invention are therefore free of silicones and / or mineral oils. Ester oils suitable according to the invention include, for example: i) Esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures. Examples of fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as technical mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (rilanite). ®IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft ® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol ® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat / -caprylat (Cetiol ® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol ® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit ® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ® ), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol ® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol ® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol ® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol ®V). Isopropyl myristate is very particularly preferred. ii) Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, and diisotridecyl acelate, as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate. iii) Symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, preferably with C6-C12 fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate. Symmetrical esters are particularly preferred, and in particular a carbonic acid ester known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol ®CC is available. iv) Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, preferably of C6-C12 fatty acids and glycerol. Medium-chain glycerol triglycerides are particularly preferred, such as trifatty acid esters known under the INCI name Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, which are commercially available, for example, under the name Myritol. ® 318. v) Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are monoglycerides, diglycerides, and their technical mixtures. When using technical products, small amounts of triglycerides may still be present due to the manufacturing process. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), in the R 1 , R 2 and R 3independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl radical and at least one of these groups represents hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) represents 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. R preferably represents 1 represents an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3represents hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as technical mixtures thereof. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used. The aforementioned ester oils can be used individually or in any desired mixtures in the compositions according to the invention. Ester oils from the aforementioned groups i), iii) and iv) are preferred according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, agents according to the invention contain as ester oil c) symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C6-C12 fatty alcohols, preferably carbonic acid esters known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate.In a further preferred embodiment, agents according to the invention contain, as ester oil c), trifatty acid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C12 fatty acids and glycerin, preferably trifatty acid esters known under the INCI name Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride. In a further preferred embodiment, agents according to the invention contain, as ester oil c), esters of C8-C24 fatty acids with branched C2-C10 alcohols, preferably esters known under the INCI name Isopropyl Myristate. Ester oil(s) c) is (are) used in the agents according to the invention preferably in a weight proportion of 10-45 wt.% and particularly preferably 15-40 wt.% of the total weight of the agent. To further increase the hair care properties, in particular to increase hair shine, it can be advantageous if the agents according to the invention also contain at least one vegetable oil in a weight proportion of 0.01-5 wt.-% of the total weight of the product. Suitable vegetable oils for the purposes of the present invention include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, and / or rosehip oil. Particularly suitable are the previously mentioned vegetable oils, which are very easy to distribute on the scalp and hair, which are quickly and easily absorbed into the hair fibers and care for them, such as babassu oil.The compositions according to the invention can further contain conventional ingredients of cosmetic compositions, such as preservatives, perfumes, fragrances, or pH adjusters. Emulsifiers can also be present in small amounts, or the components already mentioned can have an emulsifying effect to solubilize perfume or other ingredients even better, as long as the overall visual appearance of the composition is not altered. The straightening composition according to the invention is preferably applied to the hair by spraying. For this purpose, it is preferably packaged as a spray in a suitable container. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic, non-medical method for non-chemically straightening or de-frizzing hair, in which the composition according to the invention is sprayed onto the hair and distributed throughout the hair, the hair is then dried, and subsequently straightened using mechanical and / or thermal treatment.The method according to the invention has the advantage of being particularly simple and time-saving, as shaking the compositions (as, for example, with two-phase compositions) or the use of an aid such as a brush or the like is not required, as it is easily sprayed due to its low viscosity and penetrates the hair strands well. The method for straightening hair using the straightening agent further ensures a significantly reduced overall time for straightening hair. More specifically, a preferred method according to the invention for straightening keratin fibers can comprise the following steps: a. Washing the hair with a shampoo, b. Applying the straightening agent to the hair by spraying without prior drying of the hair, c. Straightening the hair under mechanical and / or thermal action. Preferably, after step c., straightening the hair, the hair is no longer washed.The process for straightening keratin fibers is thus significantly shortened compared to conventional straightening methods using non-chemical straightening agents. Conventional non-chemical straightening methods typically involve the following steps: washing the hair with shampoo, blow-drying the hair, applying the straightening agent strand by strand with a brush, blow-drying the hair, straightening, washing again with shampoo, treating with conditioner, and blow-drying. In contrast, the straightening method according to the invention has fewer treatment steps, and the application of the straightening agent itself can also be completed more quickly due to its low viscosity and ease of spraying. At the same time, a straightening effect comparable to that of top-of-the-line products of well-known non-chemical straightening agents was achieved.This applies both to the appearance of the hair immediately after straightening and to the duration of the straightening effect. For example, the product according to the invention achieved excellent straightening of the hair, which lasted until the next shampoo without any significant loss of straightening effect. Regarding preferred embodiments of the method, the same applies mutatis mutandis as with respect to the liquid straightening agent. Examples: The composition of some preferred liquid straightening agents can be found in the following tables (data in % by weight based on the total weight of the product, unless otherwise stated). “Misc” refers to other common ingredients such as preservatives, fragrances, perfumes, pH regulators.

Claims

Claims:

1. A cosmetic composition for the non-chemical smoothing or frizz-reducing of hair, comprising a) 40–90 wt% ethanol, b) 0.1–5 wt% at least one cationic surfactant, c) 5–50 wt% at least one ester oil, wherein the composition contains less than 1 wt% water and wherein all quantities refer to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, which has a viscosity in the range of 0 to 2000 mPas, preferably 100 to 800 mPas, more preferably 200 to 500 mPas (Brookfield RVDV-II+, 20°C, spindle 1, 100 rpm).

3. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, which is transparent.

4. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic surfactant(s) b) is selected from quaternary ammonium compounds.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic surfactant or surfactants b) is selected from C1-C 24-Alkyltri(C1-C4)-alkylammonium halide and / or methosulfate salts, preferably of cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and in particular of behenyltrimethylammonium salts containing a methosulfate and / or chloride ion as an anion.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ester oil(s) c) is selected from carbonic acid esters, trifatty acid esters, esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ester oil(s) c) is selected from symmetrical, unsymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C6-C12 fatty alcohols, preferably from carbonic acid esters known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate. 8.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the or each ester oil c) is selected from trifatty acid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C12 fatty acids and glycerol, preferably from trifatty acid esters known under the INCI name Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the ester oil(s) c) is selected from esters of C8-C24 fatty acids with branched C2-C10 alcohols, preferably from esters known under the INCI name isopropyl myristate.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one vegetable oil in a weight fraction of 0.01–5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, formulated as a spray.

12. Cosmetic, non-medicinal method for non-chemically smoothing or de-frizzing hair, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is sprayed onto the hair and distributed in the hair, the hair is then dried, and subsequently smoothed by mechanical and / or heat action.

13. Method according to claim 12, comprising the following steps: a. Washing the hair with a shampoo, b.Applying the smoothing agent to the hair by spraying without prior drying of the hair; c. Smoothing the hair under mechanical and / or heat influence.

14. Method according to claim 13, wherein after step c. the hair is no longer washed.

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