Care and / or make-up coloured composition
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2023725272
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-04-05
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-12
AI Technical Summary
Colored cosmetic compositions for skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips that use light-sensitive coloring materials face instability and discoloration when exposed to light, as existing solutions like titanium dioxide fail to provide adequate protection.
Incorporating zinc oxide particles in an anhydrous cosmetic composition with light-sensitive organic dyes and pigments to stabilize the color and hue, replacing titanium dioxide for better protection and coverage.
The use of zinc oxide particles in anhydrous compositions effectively protects light-sensitive coloring materials, maintaining stable shades even after exposure to light, achieving better coverage and color stability compared to titanium dioxide.
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Abstract
Description
Colored skincare and / or makeup composition FIELD OF INVENTION The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to colored cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips. STATE OF THE ART Anhydrous coloured skincare and / or lip makeup products are sought after by consumers for their coverage, hold, and colour properties for a skin and / or lip makeup effect. Coverage is generally achieved with white pigments and / or fillers, notably titanium dioxide, which is used for its high opacity and covering power. Color is provided by colorants, both organic and inorganic, some of which are known to be light-sensitive. This sensitivity can lead to color or hue instability on the surface when the composition is exposed to light. The color or hue on the surface of the composition exposed to light loses intensity and / or saturation; the surface of the composition is also said to fade in light. Therefore, efforts are made to preserve and protect light-sensitive colorants to prevent these variations in hue or color. Unexpectedly, the Applicant demonstrated that the use of zinc oxide particles, particularly in an anhydrous composition containing light-sensitive colorants, protected these colorants and thus promoted the stability of the composition's color and shade. Zinc oxide particles are therefore particularly advantageous, as a replacement for titanium dioxide particles, in the formulation of skincare and / or makeup compositions to provide coverage and, moreover, to protect light-sensitive colorants. The use of these zinc oxide particles thus makes it possible to obtain stable shades, even with light-sensitive pigments, which titanium dioxide could not achieve. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION A first aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide particles, and (ii) One or more light-sensitive colouring materials, selected from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide particles, and (ii) One or more light-sensitive colouring materials, selected from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof. By "anhydrous composition," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water. According to one embodiment, the composition is fluid or liquid, that is to say, it flows under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. According to another embodiment, the composition is in the form of a powder, in particular a loose powder. According to another embodiment, the composition is a solid composition. Preferably, the solid composition comprises one or more waxes. By "solid composition", as opposed to liquid or fluid composition or free powder, is meant according to the invention a composition which does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The composition may be in the form of a compact powder, a stick, or a composition packaged in a cup. The term "compacted powder" refers to a solid composition based on powders, distinct from a loose powder. Compacted powder is generally prepared by mixing all the components of the particulate phase and then adding a liquid phase to this mixture while stirring. The mixture is then poured into a cup, a container, or a mold and compacted. Compaction is typically carried out at a pressure of 5 to 25 MPa and results in a reduction in the volume of the compacted composition. PULVERULENT PHASE The powdered phase of the composition includes fillers and pigments. The composition of the invention includes, in particular, zinc oxide particles. Zinc oxide particles Zinc oxide particles are in the form of a white powder and are insoluble in water. Zinc oxide particles can occur in a heterogeneous form, usually hexagonal and cubic in shape. The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention are pigmentary zinc oxide particles, as opposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles used as a mineral sunscreen. The average size of the zinc oxide particles used according to the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 50 pm (micrometers), in particular from 0.1 to 10 pm, or even from 0.1 to 1 m. Particle size can be measured using a laser diffraction distribution method with a Malvern Mastersizer-type device, specifically by measuring the D value.
[0050] , which represents the maximum size that 50% of the particle volume represents. Examples include the commercial references RONACARE ZINC OXIDE from Merck, or the reference A120-ZnO-11 S3 from Kobo, or the reference ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS from Keyser&Mackay / Grillo. According to a particular and preferred mode, zinc oxide particles contain more than 80% by weight of ZnO, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, or 99% by weight of ZnO, or even 100% of ZnO. The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oil phase. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc oxide particles are not treated and they have the INCI name: Zinc oxide. In another particular method, the zinc oxide particles are treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. Zinc oxide particles can also be mixed with a wetting agent to facilitate their dispersion in the composition and thus improve the homogeneity of the composition. According to a particular method, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 50% by weight of zinc oxide, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight of zinc oxide relative to the total weight of the composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total zinc oxide particle content will generally range from 1% to 50%, or better yet, from 5% to 40% by weight (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total content of zinc oxide particles will generally range from 0.5% to 30%, better from 1% to 20% by weight (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total zinc oxide particle content will generally range from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% (zinc oxide) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, or even is free of titanium dioxide. According to an even more preferred method, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide. The composition also includes one or more light-sensitive coloring materials. Light-sensitive coloring materials For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Coloring materials are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase). Colouring materials can be made of mineral, synthetic or natural origin. Depending on the specific method, the coloring materials are of mineral or synthetic origin. The said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. A light-sensitive coloring material usable in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments and / or their salts, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof. Light-sensitive colorants are defined as colorants whose color (e.g., a single colorant) or tint (e.g., a mixture of colorants) in formulation is not stable after exposure to light. Color or tint stability can be observed with the naked eye by a color expert or measured using a spectrocolorimeter by calculating the color difference (AE₀) between two samples (irradiated vs. control). A color or tint that is not light-stable is one that loses intensity and / or saturation. The surface of the composition is also said to decolorize in light. To select light-sensitive colorants suitable for use in the compositions of the invention, the following test (also known as the 'Sun Test') can be used, which aims to identify colorants whose color or tint in formulation is impacted by exposure to light, for example, irradiation for 16 hours: The colouring material is generally pre-dispersed (for pigments) or solubilised (for dyes) in an oil and then the mixture (also called 'pigment paste') is dispersed homogeneously in an oily or greasy base including for example hydrocarbon oils and waxes as described below by way of illustration; The composition obtained in the previous step is then conditioned in two cups, one serving as a control and the other being subjected to irradiation, for example for 16 hours; the irradiation is carried out using a Sun Test XLS type device, at a power of 500W / m2, for 16h, with a Store light reduced IR filter; The hues of the irradiated composition versus the control (non-irradiated) composition are evaluated by an expert colorist who observes and describes the color or hue of each composition or by measuring a color difference AEoo according to the protocol described below; A shade that varies (e.g., loses intensity and / or saturation, fades) in the irradiated condition compared to the control condition (for example, an AEoo measurement greater than 1, especially greater than 3, more particularly greater than 8, or even greater than 10 between the irradiated composition versus the non-irradiated control) indicates that the colouring material in formulation is a light-sensitive colouring material, capable of being used in the present invention in association with zinc oxide particles which will prevent this colouring. The AEoo parameter is evaluated according to the following protocol. The colorimetric parameters of the compositions are measured using a spectrocolorimeter such as a d / 8° spectrocolorimeter (COLOR17800 X Rite). The device is used in specular mode, with a 17mm aperture window, UV is excluded from the light source. Spectral measurements are performed on each sample before and after irradiation. The colorimetric values are calculated in the CIELÀB76 space, in which L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis, illuminating D65, observer 10°. Color deviations are calculated to evaluate the colorimetric evolution of the samples between the hue of the irradiated composition versus the control composition: lightness deviation DL*ab, chroma deviation DC*ab, hue deviation DH*ab (ISO / CIE 11664-4:2019) and overall color deviation AEoo determined as defined by the CIE (ISO / CIE 11664-6:2014). As an example for implementing this test, the following oily and greasy base can be used: [Table 1] This mixture is used as a dispersion base (once melted) for bichromatic pigment preparations with equivalent TiO2 (opacifier) and colorant contents. The mixture of "Base + TiO2 pigment paste + colorant pigment paste" is adjusted to achieve a level of color saturation similar to that found in products currently on the market; the texture The pigment concentration is adjusted by adding a polyglycerol ester. Pigment pastes are dispersions of coloring materials in a polyglycerol ester of a known concentration, prepared freshly. For example, 60% of this base is mixed with 5% of a TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in the polyglycerol ester), 10% of the Red 28 Lake pigment paste to be tested (3% Red 28 Lake pre-dispersed in the polyglycerol ester), and 25% polyglycerol ester (to bring the composition to 100%). This mixture is heated to 95°C and homogenized using a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The product is poured at a temperature of approximately 90°C into a mold. The mold is left at room temperature for a few minutes, then placed in the freezer for 5 minutes. At the end, the product is either unmolded or left in its mold and placed to rest for a minimum of 24 hours before undergoing the Sun Test. The protocol steps are followed, and the SunTest is used to assess whether the irradiated tint differs from the control tint. Compositions showing a tint variation indicate that the tested colorant is light-sensitive. The Applicant tested, in particular, the organic dyes and pigments Red 28 Lake, Red 6 Salt, Blue 1 Lake and a mica-based mother-of-pearl coated with Red 6 and showed a variation in shade according to this protocol, with the greatest variation for Red 28 Lake, the most sensitive to light. Thus, among the “organic dyes and pigments (e.g.: lacquers) sensitive to light” which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (Cl 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and their mixtures;in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof.; "Lakes" are organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base"). In particular, lakes will be used that include a base chosen from among alumina (Al) and barium sulfate bases. (Ba), or calcium rosinate (Ca). For example, Red 28 Lake is a lake comprising an alumina base onto which the Red 28 dye is precipitated. According to a more particular method, the composition comprises at least one organic colorant or pigment (e.g., lake) chosen from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably again Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of this invention, “composite pigment” means a pigment comprising a substrate and mineral and / or organic pigment(s) embedded and / or encapsulated within said substrate. Light-sensitive composite pigments usable according to the invention therefore comprise a substrate and at least one of the aforementioned light-sensitive organic colorants or pigment(s). In general, composite pigments resulting from the encapsulation and / or embedding of mineral and / or organic pigments in or on substrates or matrices of different natures bring new optical properties to the pigments: in particular a lot of transparency while also providing blurring properties. The substrate can be a matrix or a core comprising at least one inorganic material and / or at least one organic material. Thus, the light-sensitive composite pigments according to the invention comprise an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate, or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and their mixtures, are embedded or encapsulated. The inorganic material of the substrate of said composite pigment may be chosen from the group consisting of: mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass or borosilicate flakes, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, titanium dioxide, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminium oxide, aluminium silicate, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, mineral clay, synthetic clay, and mixtures thereof. The organic material of the composite pigment substrate can be chosen from the group consisting of: polymethylmethacrylates (PMAAA), polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polysaccharides, cellulose, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl resins, waxes, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, at least one of the organic colorants or pigments of said composite pigment is chosen from the light-sensitive organic colorants and pigments mentioned above and their mixtures, and the substrate is chosen from silica, and more particularly silica spheres, borosilicate, alumina, or mixtures thereof. According to a particular method, the composite pigment is treated on the surface in particular by a lipophilic treatment agent and the resulting coating can be continuous or discontinuous. By "pearlescent pigments", also called "pearls" or "reflective particles", we mean pigments with multilayer structures (distinct from the aforementioned composite pigments which are not multilayered) comprising a substrate (e.g. mica, bismuth oxychloride) covered with at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and whose size, structure and physical and chemical nature of the layers as well as their surface condition, allows them to reflect incident light and create highlights on the skin after application of said composition containing them. Examples of pearlescent pigments usable according to the invention include colored pearlescent pigments based on mica and at least one of the aforementioned organic dyes or pigments. Specifically, examples include pearlescent pigments based on synthetic mica with Bluel, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or carmine, or mixtures thereof. Examples include the commercially available pearlescent pigment ranges Intenza®, Colorona®, Sunshine®, Syncrystal®, and Reflecks®. Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises one or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of: (i) Les colorants et pigments organiques choisis dans le groupe constitué par Blue 1 , Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 , Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (Cl 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21 , Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof; in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, are embedded or encapsulated; (iii) Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Bluel, Blue 1 lake (CI42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; preferably also organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and mixtures thereof. In particular, the total content of light-sensitive colouring material(s) in the compositions of the invention shall range from 0.001% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight of said composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of light-sensitive colorant(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 50%, or better yet, from 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a solid anhydrous composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total content of light-sensitive coloring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, better from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total content of light-sensitive colouring material(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention further comprises another additional ingredient selected from additional coloring materials, fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof. Additional coloring agents The composition may also include one or more additional coloring materials, distinct from the light-sensitive powder coloring materials as defined above. These additional coloring materials can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, soluble or insoluble in the oil phase of the composition, composite pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular method, the additional colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from mineral pigments distinct from zinc oxides; organic pigments; composite pigments; mother-of-pearl; dyes, and their mixtures. Among the mineral pigments distinct from zinc oxides, one can cite iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and ferric blue. Preferably, the composition will include one or more iron oxides. Among the "additional organic colorants or pigments" are Green 3, Green 5, Orange 10, Violet 2, Red 17, Green 6, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown, Orange 5, and Quinoline Yellow, and / or their lakes, and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof. Among the "additional composite pigments", we can mention those formed from a substrate and inorganic pigments such as iron oxides or organic pigments not sensitive to light such as those mentioned previously. Among the "additional pearlescent pigments," we can mention colored pearlescent pigments, such as mica with iron oxides and with or without TiO2, mica with an additional organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples include the commercially available Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncrystal® pearlescent pigment ranges. Pearlescent pigments can also be based on silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (e.g., calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate), or cellulose or cellulose derivatives. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, additional organic pigments, additional mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the total content of colouring materials (including light-sensitive and non-light-sensitive colouring materials) in the composition shall range from 0.001% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 50% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of coloring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 50%, or better yet, from 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a solid anhydrous composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total content of coloring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, better from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total content of colouring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may further include one or more additional fillers (distinct from the zinc oxide particles). Charges The fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to give a mattifying and / or blurring effect. For the purposes of the invention, "charges" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.Additional fillers, separate from zinc oxide particles, are chosen in particular from micas, of natural or synthetic origin; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; boron nitride; kaolin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as crosslinked or uncrosslinked corn, wheat, rice, cotton starches; hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention does not include talc. The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent; such as those described previously for zinc oxide particles. In a particular method, the charge is not surface treated. According to another particular method, the charge is treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent such as those described previously. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least boron nitride particles as a filler. The presence of boron nitride particles is advantageous in a solid anhydrous composition comprising zinc oxide particles, for obtaining optimal hardness. Boron nitride particles The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention are generally of lamellar or platelet shape. By 'lamellar particle' or 'platelet particle', it is understood that the thickness of the particle is less than the width of the particle, in particular the ratio between the width and the thickness of the particle goes from 2 to 100. Boron nitride particles are generally known by the INCI name: Boron nitride. The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention generally have an average size ranging from 0.5 to 20 pm, in particular from 1 to 10 pm, measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method described previously. Notable examples include the following commercial references: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from SÀFIC ALCAN / Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from IWASE / Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo. Boron nitride particles may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. According to a particular method, boron nitride particles are not treated. In a particular way, boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles. According to a particular method, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the invention shall range in particular from 0.1% to 50%, in particular from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a specific manner, the composition further comprises at least one additional filler, distinct from the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles. Examples of additional fillers are listed above. The total content of filler(s) in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.01% to 50%, in particular from 0.1% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total filler content will generally range from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total filler content will generally range from 0.5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total filler content will generally range from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OILY OR GREASY PHASE The composition may include one or more oils and possibly also an ingredient chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. Oils usable in the invention include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. In a specific embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils. Examples of hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, fatty alcohols of C12-C26 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, higher fatty acids of C12-C22 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and their mixtures. Examples of vegetable oils include soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil; candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof. Examples of C10-C26 aliphatic fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, preferably C16-C20 such as 2-octyldodecanol. Examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons include paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, mineral oils (mixtures of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum), polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, and linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes. Examples of possibly branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof. Examples of esters include monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids with a linear or branched fatty chain containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as those mentioned previously, or mixtures thereof, and of fatty alcohols with a fatty chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 esters of dipentaerythrityl, or polyesters of polyglycerol, polyesters of trimethylolpropane, polyesters of propylene glycol, polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil, and more specifically isononyl isononanoate, stearyl octanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, the butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate,diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin triisostearate; diisostearyl malate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, alkyl benzoate, (di)pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, triisostearate trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, triglyceride mixtures obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-oxyalkylated polyglycerol esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, diisostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; jojoba esters; polyglyceryl polyricinoleates such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates, and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates (in their INCI names), and mixtures thereof. The oil content can range from 0.2 to 90%, preferably from 0.5% to 80%, better from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total oil content will generally range from 0.2 to 50% by weight, in particular from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a solid anhydrous composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total oil content will generally range from 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total oil content will generally range from 10 to 90% by weight, specifically from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular manner, the composition also includes at least one lipophilic gelling agent. Lipophilic gelling agents By "lipophilic gelling agent" according to the invention, we mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of a composition. The lipophilic gelling agent can be advantageously chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrin and fatty acids such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C8 C30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin). The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, particularly hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites, and zeolites. Preferably, it can be selected from hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl and two stearyl groups. A preferred fat-soluble gelling agent is a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example Elementis' BENTONE GEL, INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate. Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite. When the composition includes one or more gelling agent(s), the total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) may range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes. Waxes For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C. Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes including alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular and preferred method, the total wax content in the composition of the invention ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better from 0.5% to 25%, even better from 1% to 25%, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total wax content will generally range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a solid anhydrous composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total wax content will generally range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm stick), the total wax content will generally range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fats. Pasty fats By "pasty fat" we mean a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. According to the invention, the pasty fat can be selected from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-O50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, and non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a diacid or a linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acid and a diol or polyol,the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid such as a mono- or tri-isostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5 OE) oxypropylenated (5 OP) pentaerythritol, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof. Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and their mixtures. The content of pasty fats can range from 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of pasty fats will generally range from 0 to 10%, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin that is distinct from a powder (e.g., concealer), the total fat content will generally range from 0 to 30% by weight, specifically from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid composition for the lips (e.g., lip balm), the total fat content will generally range from 0 to 30% by weight, specifically from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention is a solid composition comprising: Zinc oxide particles, One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof, Boron nitride particles, One or more waxes, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Hydrocarbon oils, Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, Optionally one or more additional colouring materials not sensitive to light, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide. According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention is a solid composition comprising: Zinc oxide particles, particularly in a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 1 to 30% by weight or even 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic colorants or pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of 0.001% to 30%, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Boron nitride particles, in particular in a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Hydrocarbon oils, One or more lipophilic gelling agents, One or more additional colouring materials not sensitive to light, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it is free from titanium dioxide. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a fluid or liquid composition comprising: Zinc oxide particles, One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof, Hydrocarbon oils, Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, Optionally one or more additional colouring materials not sensitive to light, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide. According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention is a fluid or liquid composition comprising: Zinc oxide particles, particularly in a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 1 to 30% by weight, or even 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, selected from the group consisting of organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lakes), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of 0.01% to 50%, notably from 0.01% to 40%, or even from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; hydrocarbon oils, One or more lipophilic gelling agents, One or more additional colouring materials not sensitive to light, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it is free from titanium dioxide. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising: Zinc oxide particles, One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof, Hydrocarbon oils, Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, Optionally one or more additional colouring materials not sensitive to light, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide. According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising: Zinc oxide particles, particularly in a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 1 to 30% by weight, or even 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of 0.001% to 50%, notably from 0.01% to 40%, or even from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; hydrocarbon oils, One or more lipophilic gelling agents, One or more additional colouring materials not sensitive to light, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it is free from titanium dioxide. In particular, in these various specific and preferred embodiments, light-sensitive coloring materials are chosen from the group consisting of: (i) Les colorants et pigments organiques choisis dans le groupe constitué par Blue 1 , Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 , Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (Cl 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21 , Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), Orange 4, le carmin, et / ou leurs sels, notamment de Sodium ou de Baryum, tels que Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, et leurs mélanges ;in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, are embedded or encapsulated; (iii) Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; preferably also organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and mixtures thereof. GALENIQUE The composition of the invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the eyelids, eyebrows and lips. The composition may be in the form of a loose powder, a fluid foundation, a lip gloss or in the form of a compact powder or a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup, in particular a lip gloss, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick. According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in a liquid or fluid form. This will notably be a fluid foundation or a lip gloss. According to a first mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a free powder. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention is in the form of a compact powder. According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup. In particular, it will be a compact powder for the eyelids (eyeshadow or eyeshadow) or for the complexion. In another form, it will be a lip balm or a lip balm in a pot or cup. In another particular form, it will be a liner pencil. In another particular form, it will be a stick or a pencil or a composition in a pot or a cup, applicable with a finger or a brush, for the eyebrows (ex: eyebrow pencil). In another form, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with a finger, sponge or brush, for the eyelids (e.g., eyeshadow). In another form, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with a finger, sponge or brush, for the skin of the face, particularly certain areas (e.g., complexion corrector or concealer). Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lip gloss or lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or lip stick. COSMETIC PROCESS The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention. The compositions of the invention are as defined above. In a particular method, the composition applied to the skin is in the form of a compact powder. Preferably, the product applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip gloss, lip balm, eyeliner pencil, or eyebrow pencil. Tl an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or lip balm. The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES Example 1: Effect of zinc oxide particles on color protection Several tests were done beforehand to determine the coverage power of zinc oxide particles, compared to titanium dioxide, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired coverage effect. These results showed that, for equivalent coverage, in an anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, a quantity of zinc oxide particles approximately 3 to 4 times greater than the quantity of titanium dioxide was required for an equivalent coverage result. We tested various organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lacquers) and a mother-of-pearl in a lipstick base as described below: [Table 2] This mixture is used as a dispersion base (once melted) for bichromatic pigment preparations with equivalent TiO2 (opacifier) and colorant contents. The mixture is: "Base + TiO2 Pigment Paste + Pigment Paste of The colorant content is adjusted to achieve a level of color saturation similar to that found in products currently on the market; the texture is adjusted by adding a polyglycerol ester. Pigment pastes are dispersions of colorants in a polyglycerol ester of a known concentration, prepared extemporaneously. To facilitate reading the first line of the table, 60% of this base was mixed with 5% of a TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of the Red 28 Lake pigment paste to be tested (3% Red 28 Lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), and 25% polyglycerol ester (to bring the composition to 100%). This mixture was heated to 95°C and homogenized using a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The product was poured at a temperature of approximately 90°C into a mold. The mold was left at room temperature for a few minutes, then placed in the freezer for 5 minutes. Afterward, the product was either unmolded or left in its mold and left to rest for a minimum of 24 hours before undergoing the Sun Test. Color evaluation by Sun Test: The color stability properties of the compositions under light were evaluated according to a 'Sun Test' protocol, in which the compositions are subjected to irradiation for 16 hours. Each composition is poured into two lipstick pots: one control and one that will be irradiated for 16 hours. Irradiation is carried out using a Sun Test XLS type device, at a power of 500W / m2, for 16h, with a Store light reduced IR filter. The hues of each composition tested, compared to the control composition (non-irradiated), are evaluated by a colorist who observes and describes the color variation of each composition. The results are presented in the following table: [Table 3] ZnO *4: The amount of ZnO is multiplied by 4 compared to the amount of TiOZ to obtain the same coverage and achieve a 'same shade' in the examples. These results show that zinc oxide (ZnO) particles have a protective effect against the fading of light-sensitive colorants. Example 2: Formulations The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator. 2.1 Liquid anhydrous lip gloss [Table 4] 2.2 Compact Powder [Table 5] The compact powder exhibits good color stability in light. Applied to the skin, it provides good coverage and color payoff. 2.3 Anhydrous lip balm [Table 6] The lipstick exhibits good color stability in light. When applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good coverage and color payoff. 2.4 Anhydrous eyeshadow [Table 7] The eyeshadow, packaged in a small dish, has good colorfastness in the light. Applied to the eyelids, the eyeshadow provides coverage and a pearly effect.
Claims
CLAIMS Cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide, and (ii) One or more light-sensitive colorants selected from the group consisting of organic colorants and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of light-sensitive colorant(s) ranges from 0.001 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the light-sensitive colorant is selected from the group consisting of: (i) Les colorants et pigments organiques choisis dans le groupe constitué par Blue 1 , Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 , Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (Cl 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21 , Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), Orange 4, le carmin, et / ou leurs sels, notamment de Sodium ou de Baryum, tels que Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, et leurs mélanges ;in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which are embedded or encapsulated with at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and their mixtures; (iii) Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; preferably also organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the zinc oxide particle content ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight of zinc oxide, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular is free from titanium dioxide.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a powder.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a fluid or liquid composition.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a solid composition.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises another additional ingredient selected from additional coloring materials, additional fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in the form of a loose powder, a liquid foundation, a lip gloss, or in the form of a pressed powder or stick, or a composition packaged in a jar or cup, in particular a lip gloss, a lip stick, an eyeliner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, or a color corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick. A cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.