Hair styling and care compositions containing legume starch

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, particularly hair compositions, for protecting hair. The invention also relates to the use of a hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch to prevent, eliminate or reduce thermal or chemical stress on hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Compositions for styling and caring for hair comprising a legume starch Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, for styling, shaping hair, in particular shaping hair into curls, as well as thermal protection of hair. The invention also relates to the use of a legume starch for shaping hair curls and also for preventing, eliminating or reducing thermal or chemical stress on the hair. Prior art

[0002] People with curly hair may wish to achieve better definition of their curls, better regularity of the pitch or spacing of these curls as well as a "bounce" effect of these curls and their flexibility.

[0003] Compositions have been proposed in the state of the art for maintaining hair curls while giving them good definition and regularity of these curls. Typically, these compositions comprise combinations of one or more fatty esters with one or more fixing polymers, thickening polymers and liquid fatty substances.

[0004] In addition, hair curls, like all hair types, can be damaged by repeated drying and styling. Heat-protective products to be applied to the hair before drying have been developed to act as a barrier to heat.

[0005] However, the compositions proposed in the state of the art, whether for maintaining curls, defining them or for protecting the hair from thermal stress, generally comprise thickeners which weigh down the hair, thicken it, stiffen it and thus cause a “cardboard effect”, making the hair fixed and dull.

[0006] It is therefore necessary to be able to develop compositions which make it possible to define hair curls without weighing them down, and which can also protect the hair from thermal stress caused by heating appliances such as hair dryers or straightening or curling irons.

[0007] Furthermore, there is a particularly strong demand from consumers for more natural products and a need to move towards alternative ingredients that are more respectful of hair and also the environment.

[0008] It is thus necessary to identify compounds of natural origin and to put to the development of cosmetic compositions for styling and care, allowing the shaping of hair curls, without a "cardboard effect", and which can also protect the hair from thermal stress caused by heating appliances. Summary of the invention

[0009] It is to the Applicant's credit to have demonstrated that modified legume starches, preferably pea starch, advantageously allow the shaping of hair curls, and preferentially allow the definition of hair curls.

[0010] Advantageously, the legume starch according to the invention allows better definition of the curls, better regularity of the curl pitch, better movement, even in humid conditions. These effects are advantageously obtained without creating a “cardboard” effect. The hair remains light and natural.

[0011] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a modified legume starch to increase the retention of hair curls and / or to maintain and preferably increase the longevity of the compression strength of the curl and / or to maintain and preferably increase the longevity of the compression stiffness of the curl.

[0012] Advantageously, the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the retention of the curls as well as to increase the longevity of the curl's hold and its rigidity without a cardboard effect and while maintaining a certain flexibility to the touch.

[0013] The Applicant has also demonstrated that the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to prevent and protect the hair from damage induced by thermal and / or chemical stress. It has in fact been demonstrated that legume starch makes it possible to reduce the oxidation of hair proteins on the cuticle and in the cortex of the hair. The hair is thus protected on the surface but also inside the hair fiber.

[0014] Thus, and according to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress.

[0015] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to specific cosmetic compositions.

[0016] These compositions advantageously make it possible to define and maintain hair curls and to protect the hair from the stress caused by heating appliances but also by the sun or chemical products for, for example, perming, bleaching or straightening the hair.

[0017] Thus, and according to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a method for shaping hair curls and / or preventing, or reducing, stress. hair comprising a step of applying to said curls of hair a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0018] The present invention also relates, according to a fifth aspect, to the use of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention for shaping hair curls and / or for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress. Brief description of the drawings Fig.l

[0019] [Fig.l] is a microscopic epi-fluroescence image associated with a densitometric analysis of the images of a sagittal view of a hair in order to quantify the oxidation of the hair in the cuticle and the cortex, on three groups of strands, a control group, a positive control group and a group treated with an aqueous solution of Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch (“treated BBR ST720)”). Fig. 2

[0020] [Fig.2] is a microscopic epi-fluroescence image associated with a den analysis sitometric images of a longitudinal view of a hair in order to quantify oxidation on the surface of the hair over a portion of its length, on three groups of strands, a control group, a positive control group and a group treated with an aqueous solution of Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch (“treated BBR ST720)”). Statement of the invention

[0021] Thus, the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch for increasing the retention of hair curls and / or for maintaining and preferably increasing the longevity of the compressive strength of the curl and / or for maintaining and preferably increasing the longevity of the compressive stiffness of the curl. The longevity of the compressive strength or the compressive stiffness corresponds to the resistance of the curl subjected to repeatedly applied mechanical forces.

[0022] Modified legume starch

[0023] By "legume" for the purposes of the present invention, we mean any plant belonging to the families of Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae and in particular any plant belonging to the Papilionaceae family such as, for example, pea, bean, broad bean, field bean, lentil, or lupin.

[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the legume starch is a pea starch.

[0025] The legume starch according to the invention is obtained from a starch having an amylose content of from 25% to 45%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 40%, the percentages being expressed as dry weight relative to the dry weight of legume starch, and determined before any further treatment such as hydrolysis and / or alkylation of said starch.

[0026] By "modified" in the sense of the present application, it is meant that the starch has undergone at least one modification chosen from thermal or chemical modifications of its macromolecular structure, or from chemical modifications of substitution of the hydroxyls carried by the starch by other chemical groups. According to one embodiment, the modified legume starch is chosen from acetylated, octenyl succinate, or hydroxyalkylated legume starches.

[0027] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the starch according to the invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated starch, preferably hydroxypropylated.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydroxypropyl starch" means a starch substituted with hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide, having in particular a content of hydroxypropyl groups of between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of hydroxypropyl starch, preferably between 1 and 10%, more preferably between 5 and 9%, and in particular close to 7%. This content is in particular determined by proton Nuclear Magnetic Resonance spectrometry, in particular according to standard EN ISO 11543:2002 F.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrolyzed starch" means a starch that has undergone a hydrolysis operation, i.e. an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular mass. Those skilled in the art know how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatments, or by enzymatic treatments. Those skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of fluidification of the starch, depending on the desired viscosity.

[0030] The hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch according to the invention may also comprise one or more other physical and / or chemical modifications, provided that said modifications do not interfere with the desired properties of said starch. An example of chemical modification is in particular crosslinking.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch according to the invention may also have other modifications, and may for example have undergone physical treatments, in particular chosen from the known operations of gelatinization, pre-gelatinization, extrusion, atomization or drying, microwave or ultrasound treatment operations, plasticization or granulation.

[0032] In particular, the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis will preferably be non-granular.

[0033] According to one embodiment, the starch according to the invention is characterized in that it is made soluble. It can be made soluble by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular by heat and / or mechanical treatment, for example by a cooking operation in an aqueous medium, possibly followed by a drying step when obtaining a powdery product is desired. The operation aimed at making the starch soluble can take place before the introduction of said starch into the cosmetic composition, indifferently before or after the alkylation and / or hydrolysis of the starch, or even after its introduction into the cosmetic composition, for example by cooking the cosmetic composition at the time of its implementation.

[0034] The modified legume starch, preferably hydrolyzed and alkylated according to the invention preferably has a weight average molecular weight of from 1 to 5,000 kDa, preferably from 10 to 3,000 kDa, most preferably from 20 to 2,000 kDa, and even more preferably from 100 to 1,800 kDa. For example, the molecular weight may be approximately 1,500 kDa. The weight average molecular weight is determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high performance size exclusion chromatography coupled in-line with multi-angle laser light scattering detection).

[0035] Hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated pea starches are commercially available and are offered by the Applicant under the brand Beauté by Roquette® ST 720.

[0036] Shaping hair curls

[0037] Various methods known to those skilled in the art are available for measuring the effectiveness of the legume starch according to the invention, for shaping hair curls and defining them. These properties are: - loop retention, which is subdivided into loop length retention and loop pitch retention; - compression of the loops; - the bending of the loops.

[0038] Loop retention

[0039] A commonly used method known to those skilled in the art is the measurement of loop retention, most often in “loop length”, but also in “loop pitch”. To characterize loop retention, two parameters are measured: - the length of the curls, - the loop pitch, also called loop intervals, which is defined as the average value of the pitch of the irregular helix described by the loops.

[0040] The length of the curls should not or substantially not increase, and the pitch of the curls should be maintained, in order to conclude that legume starch can maintain human hair in the form of curls.

[0041] These parameters are measured under so-called normal conditions, i.e. 70% relative humidity and 20°C, and under tropical conditions, i.e. 90% relative humidity and 35°C, for a period of 7 hours.

[0042] Typically, these parameters are measured by hanging strands of hair, previously styled on a curler, on a gridded and millimetered grid placed in an atmosphere controlled in humidity and temperature. The lengths to be followed are then measured by reading on the millimetered grid over time.

[0043] The retention of curls in length of a curly strand is calculated according to the formula:

[0044] % length retention = [Length of the strand before styling - Length of the strand styled at time t ] / [ Length of strand before styling - Length of strand styled just after drying (tO) ] x 100

[0045] The length of the strand before styling (i.e. before curling) is the length between the base of the strand and its end, standardized to 26 cm for the strands in our tests. The length of the styled (i.e. curled) strand at time t0, respectively at time t, is the length between the base of the strand and its end just after placing the styled (i.e. curled) strand in the controlled atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said enclosure.

[0046] The retention of the curl interval for a curly strand is calculated according to the formula:

[0047] % interval retention = [ Total length of intervals on styled strand at instant tO - Average of the intervals at instant t ] / [ Total length of the intervals on styled strand at instant tO - Average of the intervals at instant tO ] x 100

[0048] The total length of the intervals on the styled strand at time t0 is the distance between the base of the styled strand and the end of the styled strand (generally 17 cm in our tests on curled strand). The average of the intervals at time t0, respectively at time t, is the average of the values ​​of the steps of each well-formed loop on the styled strand just after placing the styled strand in the controlled atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said enclosure.

[0049] In terms of curl length retention and curl pitch retention, the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to reduce the drop in the retention percentage between time t0 and time t=1h, and also makes it possible to increase the average value of the plateau where the retention percentage stabilizes between 3 and 7 hours after styling.

[0050] The legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to increase the retention of the length of the curls, which results in a reduction of the initial decrease in the length of the curls, and in an increase in the value at which this length typically stabilizes 3 hours after styling.

[0051] Under moderate relative humidity and temperature conditions (i.e. 70% RH and 20°C), the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of the loops in length at a value of less than 35%, preferably less than 30%, and most preferably less than 25%. The legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of the loops in length at a value greater than or equal to 55%, preferably greater than or equal to 60%, more preferably greater than or equal to 65%, and most preferably greater than or equal to 70%.

[0052] Under tropical relative humidity and temperature conditions (i.e. 90% RH and 35°C), the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of the loops in length at a value of less than 75%, preferably less than 60%, and most preferably less than 45%. The legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of the loops in length at a value greater than or equal to 25%, preferably greater than or equal to 35%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%.

[0053] The legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to increase the retention of the curl pitch, which results in a reduction in the initial decrease in the curl pitch, and in an increase in the value at which the pitch typically stabilizes 3 hours after styling.

[0054] Under moderate relative humidity and temperature conditions (i.e. 70% RH and 20°C), the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of the loops in steps (or intervals) at a value less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 2%. The legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of the loops in steps (or intervals) at a value greater than or equal to 94%, preferably greater than or equal to 96%, more preferably greater than or equal to 97%.

[0055] Under tropical relative humidity and temperature conditions (i.e. 90% RH and 35°C), the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of the loops in steps (or intervals) at a value of less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, and most preferably less than 10%. The legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of the loops in steps (or intervals) at a value greater than or equal to 60%, preferably greater than or equal to 65%, more preferably greater than or equal to 80%.

[0056] According to one embodiment, the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to maintain a retention of the loops in length of at least 60%, preferably at least 65%, and most preferably at least 70%, for a duration of at least 1 hour, preferably at least 2 hours, preferably at least 3 hours, preferably for at least 5 hours, and all preferably for at least 7 hours.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to maintain a retention of the pitch of the loops of at least 94%, preferably at least 97%, for a duration of at least 1 hour, preferably at least 2 hours, preferably at least 3 hours, preferably for at least 5 hours, and most preferably for at least 7 hours.

[0058] Legume starch therefore has styling properties for curl retention, whether in retaining the length of the curls or in retaining the pitch of the curls.

[0059] Thus, the present invention relates to the use of a modified legume starch for increasing hair curl retention, and preferably for increasing curl length retention and / or curl pitch retention.

[0060] Compression of loops

[0061] Measuring the compression of loops makes it possible to evaluate the mechanical strength of a loop under the effect of a mechanical stress, in particular a compressive stress, i.e. a force exerted perpendicular to a tangent to the loop towards the center of the loop. This typically involves measuring the force required to deform the loop. Two parameters will be measured: - the longevity of the compression fit; - the longevity of the compression rigidity.

[0062] It is possible to characterize the longevity of the hold and the longevity of the compression rigidity of a curl of hair by measuring the value of the force, and its gradient, required to compress said curl during a defined number of compression-relaxation cycles, typically 10 cycles. A processing software then calculates: - the longevity of the compressive strength: this is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum force before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed as a “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the compressive strength, - the longevity of the compression stiffness: this is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum force gradient before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the compression stiffness.

[0063] Typically, these parameters can be measured by a device of the Dia-Stron® brand, the “MTT175”, following the “curl compression” protocol.

[0064] Advantageously, the legume starch according to the invention ensures the longevity of the compression strength of the loop as well as the longevity of the compression rigidity of the loop.

[0065] The legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to achieve a longevity of the compression strength of the loops greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%. The legume starch according to the invention advantageously allows a longevity of the compression rigidity of the loops greater than 75%, preferably greater than 85%.

[0066] Thus, the present invention relates to the use of a modified legume starch to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression strength of the loop and / or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression stiffness of the loop.

[0067] According to a preferred embodiment, the starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the retention of hair curls and to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression strength of the curl and to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression rigidity of the curl.

[0068] Loop retention and longevity of the loop's compression strength and rigidity should ideally be achieved without a "cardboard effect." More reasonably, a reduced or moderate cardboard effect is generally achievable. The loop should remain fairly flexible and should not be overly stiffened by the legume starch. The cardboard effect, or flexibility, is assessed using the three-point bending method below.

[0069] Three-point flexion

[0070] Three-point bending measurement is used to assess the flexibility of a flat-styled strand of hair. A strand of hair styled in the form of a flat strip is bent at its center, with its ends resting on stationary supports. This method is used to assess fixation, long-term hold, and the "cardboard effect." The device measures the force required to bend the braid reversibly, or to break the film permanently, and calculates four parameters: - maximum bending strength: this is the maximum force to be applied to break the film of styling product on the strand, - maximum bending rigidity: this is the maximum force gradient to break the film of styling product, - the longevity of the flexural strength: this is the complement to 100% of the relative variation of the maximum force before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed as a “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the strength, - the longevity of the bending rigidity: this is the 100% complement of the variation relative maximum gradient of force before film breakage between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the rigidity.

[0071] Typically, these parameters can be measured using the “3-point bend” protocol on the Dia-Stron® MTT175.

[0072] The modified legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the maximum flexural strength of a styling composition by at least 10%, preferably by at least 20%, more preferably by at least 30%, and most preferably by at least 40%, compared to the maximum flexural strength of the same styling composition without the legume starch according to the invention. The modified legume starch according to the invention also makes it possible to reduce the maximum flexural rigidity of a styling composition by at least 10%, preferably by at least 20%, and most preferably by at least 30%, compared to the maximum flexural rigidity of the same styling composition without the legume starch according to the invention.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the modified legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the maximum bending strength, while reducing the maximum bending rigidity: it therefore allows a stronger hold of the loops, while reducing the cardboard effect.

[0074] The modified legume starch according to the invention also makes it possible to increase the longevity of the flexural strength of a loop, advantageously to a value greater than or equal to 92%, preferably greater than or equal to 95%, and most preferably greater than or equal to 98%. The modified legume starch according to the invention also makes it possible to increase the longevity of the flexural rigidity of a loop.

[0075] Thus, by combining all the preceding effects, the modified legume starch according to the invention allows for better hold of the curls, improves their fixation, has a long-term effect, and this with a moderate cardboard effect, or even without any cardboard effect.

[0076] Thermal protection

[0077] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress.

[0078] The stress may be thermal stress and / or chemical stress.

[0079] Typically, heat stress is induced by drying, whether regular or not, the hair and / or the use of straightening irons or any heating device, but also by UV rays during exposure to the sun.

[0080] Typically, chemical stress is induced by the application of oxidizing products, for example those contained in hair colorings or dyes, products for bleaching hair, completely or partially, products for creation of curls, intended for perming or straightening. Chemical stress is also induced by frequent exposure to chlorine.

[0081] Thermal or chemical stress will cause oxidation of hair proteins via a carbonylation reaction. The hair will then be weakened and damaged.

[0082] It has been demonstrated that the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to prevent and protect the hair from attacks induced by thermal and / or chemical stress. It has in fact been demonstrated that legume starch makes it possible to reduce the oxidation of hair proteins in the cuticle and in the cortex of the hair. The hair is thus protected on the surface but also inside the hair fiber.

[0083] Thus, according to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair oxidation induced by heat stress.

[0084] According to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair oxidation induced by chemical stress.

[0085] The modified legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to protect the hair from thermal and / or chemical stress.

[0086] Galenic

[0087] According to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a modified legume starch in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0088] The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” or “cosmetically acceptable” or “dermatologically acceptable” means any medium which does not exhibit deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, inflammation, heating, tightness or stinging unacceptable to a user of cosmetic or dermatological products. The medium is thus compatible with the keratin materials of human beings.

[0089] The cosmetic composition comprises from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, and very particularly from 0.75% to 10% by weight of modified legume starch. The percentages by weight are expressed relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0090] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms used in the hair care field and normally used for application to the hair such as aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), emulsions of the type cream, aqueous gels, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type.

[0091] These compositions are prepared by the usual methods known to those skilled in the art.

[0092] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of emulsions, i.e., compositions comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another, for example water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) or multiple (W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions.

[0093] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0094] Water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. These emulsions comprise a continuous oily phase. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. These emulsions comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. These emulsions comprise an aqueous continuous phase.

[0095] Among the galenic forms in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or in the form of a microemulsion suitable for application to the scalp and hair, mention will be made of galenic forms for rinse-off application, known as "rinse-off" in English: shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, serums, mousses, balms, creams, sprays, conditioners, detanglers, hair creams, dyes or coloring, products intended to bleach or perm or straighten hair or galenic forms intended to be applied to the hair without rinsing, known as "leave-on" in English such as emulsions, gels, creams, aqueous gels, sprays, serums.

[0096] Aqueous phase

[0097] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, one or more water-miscible organic solvents.

[0098] According to one embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention comprises from 40% to 95% by weight of water, preferably from 50% to 90%, preferably from 55% to 85%, preferably from 60% to 80%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] According to one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises from 10% to 90% by weight of oil, preferably from 25% to 75%, preferably from 40% to 70%, preferably from 45% to 65%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] The composition may comprise, in the aqueous phase, at least one soluble solvent in the water.

[0101] By "water-soluble solvent" is meant a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0102] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile.

[0103] Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0104] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mono-alcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

[0105] Typically, the mono-alcohol having from 1 to 5 atoms is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Humectants

[0107] The emulsion according to the invention may also comprise at least one humectant. The humectant may be chosen from polyols and / or esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol.

[0108] By “polyols” is meant any molecule having in its structure at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C).

[0109] Typically, the polyol will be chosen from maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol or glycerin, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups, dextrins, maltodextrins, glucose syrups, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] By way of illustration, mention will be made of the product Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 or PO 071 (INCI: Sorbitol), PO 160 (sorbitol powder) PO 260 (mannitol), PO 370 (xylitol), PO 500, marketed by the company ROQUETTE, Glycerin (INCI: glycerin) sold by the company COOPER, propylene glycol (INCI: propylene Glycol) from the company COOPER, Butylene Glycol (INCI: 1,3-BUTANEDIOL).

[0111] Among the esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol, mention will be made of the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 (INCI: PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SES-QUISTEARATE) by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.

[0112] The composition comprises from 0.1% to 25% by weight of polyols, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of polyols, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Oily phase

[0114] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25°C), and which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the oil will be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and their mixtures.

[0117] The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin.

[0118] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil remaining on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0119] Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isotridecyl isononoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, tracetin, tricprin, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, the mixture of caprate and caprylate of coco, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, glycol esters such as butylene glycol cocoate, glycerin triisostearate, tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid,higher fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, tsubaki oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof.

[0120] These non-volatile oils can also be hydrocarbon or silicone type oils such as paraffin oil, squalane, petroleum jelly, dimethyl siloxanes and mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from stearic acid, jojoba oil (INCI: simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), grape seed oil (INCI: vitis vinifera seed oil), macadamia oil (INCI: Macadamia temifolia seed oil), refined oleic sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil), the mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate such as the product Miglyol Coco 810 (INCI: Coco- Caprylate / Caprate), sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis OU), sesame oil (INCI: Sesamum indicum seed oil).

[0122] Among the fatty esters, we will mention the product DUB VC1 10 (INCI: Isodecyl Neo-pentanoate) from the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS.

[0123] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] The liquid fatty phase may also comprise volatile oils. By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils may be chosen, for example, from silicone oils or short fatty acid triglycerides to reduce the greasy feel.

[0125] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] The fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent such as a wax.

[0127] Wax

[0128] By "wax" is meant a fatty substance with a reversible liquid / solid state change, having a melting point above 30°C and generally below 90°C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar or apolar waxes or a mixture of the two. By "apolar" is meant a wax containing only carbon, hydrogen and / or phosphorus atoms and in particular a hydrocarbon.

[0129] Polar waxes may in particular be chosen from animal waxes, vegetable waxes and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters. Mention may thus be made of Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, bee wax (Cera alba), Chinese insect wax (Ericerus pela), Japanese wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, C8-C20 acid triesters and glycerin wax such as glycerin tribehenate, acetylated glycol stearate marketed in particular by the company VEVY under the trade name CETACENE, and mixtures thereof. These waxes may in particular be used in predispersed form in an oil, as is the case with the mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil.

[0130] Butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, camellia butter will also be mentioned.

[0131] According to one embodiment, the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] Gelling agent

[0133] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent.

[0134] By gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds, thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.

[0135] The gelling agent is chosen from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or lipophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or mineral gelling agents.

[0136] The gelling agent makes it possible to viscosify the continuous phase, i.e. to adjust the viscosity of the continuous phase to a value ranging from 100 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s.

[0137] The organic gelling agent may be chosen from polymers of synthetic origin or of plant origin, preferably of plant origin, chemically modified or not.It can thus be chosen from gums derived from plants such as gum arabic, konjac gum, guar gum or their derivatives; gums extracted from algae such as alginates; gums derived from microbial fermentation such as xanthans, for example, the product Keltrol CG (INCI: xanthan gum), sold by the company CP KELCO or the product Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by the company JUNGBUNZLAUER INTERNATIONAL AG, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives; cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and its derivatives such as in particular modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenyl-succinates or hydroxypropylated; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or carbomers, and mixtures thereof. Typically, a carboxymethylated potato starch can be used, such as Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 marketed by the company ROQUETTE.

[0138] Among the carbomers, we will cite for example the product Carbopol Ultrez 30 (INCI: carbomer) from the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc. or CARBOPOL ETD 2050 POLYMER (INCI: carbomer).

[0139] Mention will also be made of mixtures of gum arabic and xanthan gum such as the product Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum), sold by the company SEPPIC, mixtures of starch and cellulose derivatives such as the product Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 (INCI: Starch acetate (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) Xanthan gum), sold by the company ROQUETTE.

[0140] The mineral gelling agent may be chosen from magnesium silicates and / or aluminum. An example of such a mineral gelling agent is Veegum® Pure from Vanderbilt Minerals LLC, which is a magnesium aluminum silicate.

[0141] Surfactant

[0142] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The role of said at least one surfactant may be to emulsify oil in water or water in oil, or to clean and / or condition keratin fibers.

[0143] Cationic surfactant

[0144] Cationic surfactants include in particular salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Among the quaternary ammonium salts, preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxlammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. ; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0146] Among the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, we will cite for example Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX (Quatemium 89), Finquat CT proposed by the company FINETEX (Quatemium 75).

[0147] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, mention will be made of the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxy ethyl hydroxyethyl-methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxy ethylhydroxy ethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine even ally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWOWITCO.

[0148] The composition may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is possible to use behenoyl-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

[0149] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants which may be present in the composition, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methsulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Anionic surfactant

[0152] The anionic surfactants are chosen from carboxylic anionic surfactants, sulfated anionic surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, phosphate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulfonate anionic surfactants, carboxylic anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] By "anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0154] By “sulfated anionic surfactant” is meant an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and possibly also comprising one or more other functions derived from acids, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO), sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3) and / or phosphate functions. By way of example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, as well as the salts of these compounds, are sulfated anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups of these compounds cited by way of example, contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds cited as examples may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.Among the anionic surfactants of the alkyl sulfate type, mention may be made of alkyl sulfate salts and their mixtures, in particular in the form of alkali metal (N or K) or alkaline earth metal (for example Mg) or ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts, and their mixtures. The sulfated anionic surfactant may be sodium cocosulfate which is the sodium salt of the sulfate ester of coconut alcohol which generally has the formula: ROSO3Na, where R represents the alkyl groups derived from coconut oil. The INCI name is sodium cocosulfate. A preferred sodium cocosulfate according to the present invention is that marketed by Rhodia under the name MACKOLTM CAS-100N.

[0155] The term “non-sulfated anionic surfactant” means a surfactant which does not fall within the definition of “sulfated anionic surfactant” as defined above.

[0156] It is also understood according to the invention that: - carboxylic anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), but do not comprise a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), nor a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3); - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO) and / or phosphates, but do not comprise a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3). - phosphate anionic surfactants comprise at least one phosphoric or phosphate function (-OPO3H2 or -OPO32), but do not comprise a carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), nor a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), nor a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0157] In other words:

[0158] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or - OSO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a sulfated anionic surfactant;

[0159] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or - OSO3), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a sulfated anionic surfactant;

[0160] - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a non-sulfated sulfonate anionic surfactant; • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a sulfated anionic surfactant.

[0161] The carboxylic anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds. The alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 28, even more preferably from 10 to 24, even better still from 12 to 22, carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.Also useful are C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates, and their salts.

[0162] According to one embodiment, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from: - acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoylglutamate or co-coylglutamates, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate; - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as cocoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; - acyllactylates, particularly C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate, (iso)stearoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium (iso)stearoyl lactylate; - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20 such as cocoyl glycinates and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate; - alkyl(C6-C30)ethercarboxylic acids, in particular alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylic acids; - alkyl(C6-C30) aryl ethercarboxylic acids, in particular alkyl(C6-C24) aryl ethercarboxylic acids; - alkyl(C6-C30)amidoethercarboxylic acids, in particular alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids; - and their mixtures; and in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0163] The anionic sulfonate surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0164] According to one embodiment, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from: C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates; alpha-olefinsulfonates; and mixtures thereof; and in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or aminoalcohol salts.

[0165] According to one embodiment, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Another group of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyllactylates whose acyl group comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.In addition, mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24 alkyl)ethercarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl)(C6-C24 aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those. comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] The anionic phosphate surfactants are chosen from: C6-C24 alkyl phosphates, in particular C12-C20; C6-C24 alkyl ether phosphates, in particular C12-C20; and mixtures thereof.

[0167] Non-ionic surfactant

[0168] According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from:

[0169] - alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-C20)phenols, these compounds being poly- ethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

[0170] - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols;

[0171] - ethers of fatty alcohols and polyethylene glycol;

[0172] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 oxide units ethylene, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4;

[0173] - non-ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, ethoxylated fatty acid esters or polyethoxylated preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;

[0174] - sucrose fatty acid esters, glycerol fatty acid esters, esters or polyesters of fatty acids and sucrose, esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol;

[0175] - polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters having 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0176] - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives,

[0177] - amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or oxides N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine;

[0178] - polyether modified polysiloxanes;

[0179] - and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Among the fatty acid esters, mention may be made, by way of illustration, of Citrol GMS 40 (INCI: Glyceryl stearate), sold by the company CRODA, or the product Imwitor 960K (INCI: Glyceryl stearate), sold by the company BIESTERFELD, the product Imwitor 372P (INCI: Glyceryl stearate citrate), sold by the company BIESTERFELD, the product Glucate SS (INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), sold by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc, stearic plurol (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate), Natragem E145 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate / Succinate (and) Aqua), sold by CRODA, the product Span 60 (INCI: sorbitan stearate), sold by SIGMA ALDRICH. Sorbitan esters include, for example, the product Span 20. Fatty alcohols include, for example, the product sold under the name Promulgen D (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20).

[0181] According to another embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides, which are represented by the following general formula:

[0182] R10-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0183] in which:

[0184] - Ri represents: a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 12 carbon atoms,

[0185] - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0186] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0187] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0188] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0189] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0190] - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 6 with 18 carbon atoms, or with 6 to 12 carbon atoms,

[0191] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0192] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0193] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0194] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0195] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant, i.e. an alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant where G is a glucose. Particularly preferred are C6 / C16-alkyl-1,4-(poly)glucosides, C6 / C12-alkyl-1,4-(poly)glucosides, and in particular decylglucosides, dodecyl-glucosides, hetpoglucosides, caprylyl glucosides, capryl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0196] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 100, Montanov 68 (INCI: CETEARYL ALCOHOL (AND) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE), marketed by the company SEPPIC, the product Montanov L (INCI: C14-C22 Alcohols & Cl2-20 Alkyl Glucoside), marketed by the company SEPPIC, Montanov 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside); the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK. The non-ionic surfactant may also be chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides, preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, with an HLB greater than or equal to 10, or greater than or equal to 12, or greater than or equal to 14. Alkyl(poly)glycosides, preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, may also be combined with fatty alcohols.

[0197] Emulsifying systems

[0198] The surfactant may advantageously be chosen from oil-in-water emulsifying systems composed of a cyclodextrin and a water-in-oil emulsifier of natural origin, such as the oil-in-water emulsifying system marketed by Roquette Frères under the name Beauté by Roquette® DS 146.

[0199] It will also be possible to use emulsifiers based on vegetable gums and modified starches such as the product Beauté by Roquette® DS 421, marketed by the company ROQUETTE.

[0200] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant

[0201] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be chosen from derivatives of secondary or tertiary or quaternary aliphatic amines, in particular betaine-type surfactants; and lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins.

[0202] Among the derivatives of secondary, tertiary or quaternary aliphatic amines, one may choose from those whose aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may also be made of: alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, for example co-cobetaine; sulfobetaines; alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines; alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, for example cocamidopropylbetaine; or alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0203] Among the betaine-type surfactants, one can notably choose from: - alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine such as the product GENAGEN KB® from CLARIANT, or coco-betaine such as the product Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; - N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® from SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT ET WILSON), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO), or N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate N-disodium (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® from RHODIA CHIMIE); - sultaines, such as cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine (for example CROSULTAINE C-500 from CRODA); - and their mixtures

[0204] Binder

[0205] According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises a binder.

[0206] Preferably, the solid compositions according to the invention comprise at least one binder.

[0207] The term "binder" means compounds that provide increased cohesion to the cosmetic composition. This cohesion can be adjusted depending on the quantity and chemical affinity of the binding agent relative to the ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

[0208] Typically, the binder will be chosen from caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as the product Labrafac CC (INCI: capric / caprylic triglicerides) or Cetyl Di-methicone (INCI).

[0209] The binder will be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 to 15%, preferably from 5 to 12%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] Advantageously, the binders will also have emollient properties.

[0211] Fatty phase viscosifying agent

[0212] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty phase viscosifying agent, i.e. a lipophilic or amphiphilic viscosifying agent, chosen from fatty alcohols.

[0213] A lipophilic or amphiphilic viscosity agent is understood to mean a molecule or macromolecule capable of increasing the viscosity of an oil without substantially changing its physical or chemical properties.

[0214] Among the fatty alcohols, we will mention Lanette 16 (INCI: cetyl alcohol), Lanette O (INCI: cetearyl Alcohol).

[0215] Coloring matter

[0216] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one coloring material chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, the fillers having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition and / or coloring keratin materials, preferably the skin, such as pigments, pearlescent agents, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral support), and mixtures thereof. These coloring materials may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluo- fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate / silicone copolymers, lecithins, camauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate, phytic acid.

[0217] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, intended to color and / or opacify the cosmetic composition.

[0218] Among the pigments, mention will be made of mineral or organic pigments, natural or synthetic. Examples of pigments are in particular iron, titanium or zinc oxides, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, without this list being limiting.

[0219] Among the pigments surface-treated with lecithins, mention will be made of the products UNIPURE WHITE LC981 HLC (INCI: CI 77891 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin, UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 HLC (INCI: CI 77492 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin), UNIPURE BLACK LC989 HLC (INCI: CI 77499 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin, UNIPURE RED LC381HLC (INCI: CI 77491 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin) from the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

[0220] Among the pigments surface-treated with phytic acid, mention will be made of the products Unipure White LC 985 PHY (INCI: CI 77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), Unipure Yellow LC 188 PHY (INCI: CI 77492 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide ), Unipure Red LC 388 PHY (INCI: CI 77491 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide ), Unipure Black LC 998 PHY (INCI: CI 77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), from the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

[0221] The term “mother-of-pearl” means any colored particles, iridescent or not, which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0222] Among the nacres, mention will be made of titanium mica covered with metallic oxide such as iron oxide or titanium oxide.

[0223] Charges

[0224] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further contain at least one filler. This term is understood to mean any particle of any shape (in particular spherical or lamellar), mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition. Examples of fillers are talc, boron nitride, starch, polyamides, silicone resins, silicone elastomer powders and acrylic polymer powders, in particular poly(methyl methacrylate) or styrene acrylate copolymer powders (Sunsphere Powders from Dow).

[0225] Typically, it will be possible to use an aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (AOS), such as the product Beauté by Roquette® ST 012 marketed by the company ROQUETTE, or even native starches, such as a native corn starch like Beauté by Roquette® ST 005 product or cyclodextrins such as Beauté by Roquette® CD 100 product.

[0226] Active ingredients

[0227] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0228] Mention will be made, as cosmetic active ingredient or cosmetically active ingredient or cosmetically active substance, of an antioxidant agent, an anti-radical agent, a moisturizing agent, an emollient agent, an anti-pollution agent, vitamins, minerals,.

[0229] Among the vitamins, we will mention tocopherol, for example, the product Covi-ox® T-70 C (INCI: tocopherol), sold by the company BASF, which can be used as an antioxidant.

[0230] Typically, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably, from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] Additives

[0232] The composition according to the invention may comprise other ingredients provided that they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition.These other ingredients may, for example, be preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI: Sodium benzoate) such as the product Microcare NB, sold by the company Thor, or potassium sorbate (INCI: Potassium sorbate), such as the product Microcare KS, also sold by the company Thor, pH adjusters such as citric acid, sodium hydroxide or arginine, perfumes, sunscreens, chelating agents, antimicrobial agents such as liquid antimicrobial compositions, for example an antimicrobial liquid composition comprising an essential oil chosen from the essential oils of species of the genus Cymbopogon such as essential oils of citronella, and essential oils of West Indian lemongrass, East Indian lemongrass, an alkyl(poly)glucoside, a gluconic acid and its salt, sodium gluconate.

[0233] Among the sunscreens, we will cite by way of illustration, Solaveil XT 300 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina), from the company CRODA, EUSOLEX 2292 (INCI: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE) or EUSOLEX T-2000 (INCI: CI 77891 & ALUMINA & SIMETHICONE) from the company Merck KGaA.

[0234] According to one embodiment, the emulsions according to the invention will be prepared with “bio-sourced” ingredients. By “bio-sourced” is meant an ingredient whose dry mass in carbon atoms of renewable origin is at least 50% by weight. of the total dry mass of carbon atoms.

[0235] The emulsions according to the invention will be prepared by any technique known to those skilled in the art.

[0236] Cosmetic compositions

[0237] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of - at least one legume starch, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water.

[0238] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of: - at least one legume starch, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water, - at least one gelling agent, - at least one coloring matter.

[0239] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of: - at least one legume starch, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water, - at least one gelling agent, - at least one binder, - at least one fatty phase viscosifying agent, - at least one coloring matter, - at least one charge.

[0240] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of - at least one legume starch, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water, - at least one gelling agent, - at least one binder, - at least one fatty phase viscosifying agent, - at least one coloring matter, - at least one charge, - at least one cosmetic active ingredient

[0241] Method for shaping hair curls and / or prevention, elimination or reduction of heat stress on hair

[0242] The present invention also relates to a method for shaping hair curls and / or preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention to the hair.

[0243] This application step may optionally be preceded by a hair washing step.

[0244] The application step may optionally be followed by a laying step, for example a laying time of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 2 to 5 minutes, then optionally followed by a rinsing step or not, for example with water, and / or a drying step. These embodiments will apply during the application of rinsed-off galenic forms, known as “rinse-off”.

[0245] In the case of so-called “leave-on” galenic forms, the hair is not rinsed after the step of applying the composition according to the invention. Typically, the composition will be applied to the hair for at least 1 hour, and preferably for the day in order to allow styling and definition of the curls. The application step will possibly be followed by a drying step.

[0246] The compositions according to the invention then make it possible to define the curls and shape them, and protect the hair from thermal stress induced by heating appliances or the sun but also from chemical stress induced by oxidizing products.

[0247] Non-therapeutic use of hair styling compositions

[0248] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition as previously described, for shaping hair curls.

[0249] Typically, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to increase the retention of hair curls and / or to maintain and preferably to increase the longevity of the hold of the curl and / or to maintain and preferably to increase the longevity of the rigidity of the curl.

[0250] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, to prevent, eliminate or reduce thermal stress of the hair.

[0251] Typically, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to prevent, eliminate or reduce oxidation of the hair induced by thermal stress. Examples

[0252] In the following examples, the ingredients listed in Table 1 are used.

[0253] [Tableauxl] Ingrédient INCI Fournisseur Eau Aqua - Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 Hydroxypropyl starch Roquette Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 Starch Acetate (and) Hy-droxyethyl Cellulose (and) Xanthan Gum Roquette Beauté by Roquette® PO 455 Hydrogenated Starch Hy-drolysate Roquette Beauté by Roquette® DS 146 Cyclodextrin (and) Sorbitol (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Dii-sostearate Roquette Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 Sorbitol Roquette Kelcogel CG-HA Gellan Gum CP kelco Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside SEPPIC Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol BASF Cegesoft VP Olus Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax BASF Argan oil Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil DSM Lipovol C-76 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Vantage Beurre de karité Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Cooper Phénoxyéthanol Phénoxyéthanol Jan Dekker Huile de coco Cocos nucifera oil VANTAGE Huile de Tournesol Helianthus annuus seed oil VANTAGE Alchohol Denat Alcohol - Grapeseed oil Vitis vinifera seed oil - IMWITOR® 372 PGlyceryl stearate citrate IOI Oleo GmbH IMWITOR® 900 K Glyceryl stearate IOI Oleo GmbH Shea butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Cooper Butter Microcare PE Phenoxyethanol Jan Dekker

[0254] Example 1: Loop retention

[0255] Here we evaluate the capacity of aqueous solutions of fixing agent, and of cosmetic formulations in cream form, to retain / maintain curls, i.e. to retain / maintain the hairstyle of strands of human hair in the form of curls. The stability of two curl retention criteria are evaluated: the length of the curls, and the interval (or not) of the curls. The stability of these criteria is evaluated by monitoring over a period of 4 to 7 or 8 hours depending on the tests, under controlled temperature and humidity conditions. Temperate conditions are 70% relative humidity and 20°C. Tropical conditions are 90% relative humidity and 35°C.

[0256] The retention of curls in length of a curly strand is calculated according to the formula:

[0257] % length retention = [Length of the strand before styling - Length of the strand styled at time t ] / [ Length of strand before styling - Length of strand styled just after drying (tO) ] x 100

[0258] The length of the strand before styling is the length between the base of the strand and its end, standardized to 26 cm for the strands in our tests. The length of the styled strand at time t0, respectively at time t, is the length between the base of the strand and its end just after placing the styled strand in the controlled atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said enclosure.

[0259] The retention of the curl interval for a curly strand is calculated according to the formula:

[0260] % gap retention = [Total length of gaps on styled strand at instant tO - Average of the intervals at instant t ] / [ Total length of the intervals on styled strand at instant tO - Average of the intervals at instant tO ] x 100

[0261] The total length of the intervals on the styled strand at time t0 is the distance between the base of the styled strand and the end of the styled strand (generally 17 cm in our tests on curled strand). The average of the intervals at time t0, respectively at time t, is the average of the values ​​of the steps of each well-formed loop on the styled strand just after placing the styled strand in the controlled atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said enclosure.

[0262] The strands used for these tests are strands of Caucasian hair standardized to 0.8 g and 25 cm in length (EXTIFF brand “natural cold extensions”). Each strand is shaped into curls and evaluated for curl retention according to the following protocol:

[0263] 1 / Washing a wick:

[0264] A strand of hair is soaked in water by dipping it in a flat water bath for 6 seconds. 0.4 g of sodium laureth sulfate (Texapon NSA SLES 28% DM) is then applied, spreading it along the entire length of the strand. The strand is rubbed ten times with zigzag movements (5 times on one side, and 5 times on the other side). The strand of hair is rinsed under water for 40 seconds (20 seconds on one side, and 20 seconds on the other). Excess water is removed by wringing it out three times between two fingers. The strand is then left to dry for 12 hours lying flat.

[0265] 2 / Application of the styling product:

[0266] Wet the strand under running tap water for 5 seconds on each side. Remove excess water by wringing it out between two fingers. Apply 0.3 g of styling product to the strand, spreading it over the entire length of the strand. Rub the strand ten times with zigzag movements (5 times on one side and 5 times on the other side). Carefully place the strand on the curler (describe the curler) and secure it appropriately.

[0267] 3 / Drying and measurement:

[0268] The support covered with the wick is placed in an oven at 50°C for 1.5 hours. After drying, the wick is carefully removed from the support and hung on the millimeter plate. The total length of the wick is then noted. The millimeter plate, where all the required wicks have been installed, is then placed in a climatic oven at 20°C and 70% relative humidity. The characteristic lengths are then measured every hour for at least 7 hours.

[0269] We begin by evaluating aqueous solutions according to the compositions in Table 2.

[0270] [Tables2] Solution 1 Solution 2 Solution 3 Solution 4 Solution 5 Water (% by weight) 100 99 95 99 95 Polyvinylpyrrolidone (% by weight) 0 1 5 0 0 Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 (% by weight) 0 0 0 1 5

[0271] The loop retention evaluation protocol is applied under normal environmental conditions (70%RH, 20°C), and the results in Tables 3 and 4 are obtained.

[0272] Table 3 below lists the measurements of curl length retention at 70%RH and 20°C. Time (hour) Length Retention (%) Solution 1 Solution 2 Solution 3 Solution 4 Solution 5 0 100 100 100 100 100 1 42 49 62 71 80 2 37 44 58 67 78 3 34 38 56 63 74 4 34 38 54 61 74 5 34 38 53 59 74 6 37 38 52 51 73 7 34 38 52 65 76 Initial Decrease 58 51 38 29 20 Decrease 1-7 hours 8 11 10 6 4 Average Plateau 3-7 hours 35 38 53 62 74

[0274] It is observed that the retention of the length of the locks styled with solutions 4 and 5 is much better than that of the locks styled with polyvinylpyrrolidone, both concerning the initial decrease (that occurring in the first hour) and the decrease between 1 hour and 8 7 hours, and both concerning the value at which it stabilizes (i.e. the average value of the plateau where the retention stabilizes).

[0275] Table 4 below presents the measurements relating to the retention of loop intervals at 70% RH and 20°C. Time (hour) Retention intervals (%) Solution 1 Solution 2 Solution 3 Solution 4 Solution 5 0 100 100 100 100 100 1 88 92 97 96 98 2 88 88 96 95 97 3 86 87 95 94 97 4 86 86 94 94 97 5 86 86 96 94 97 6 85 86 92 93 97 7 85 86 92 93 97 Initial decrease 12 8 3 4 2 Decrease 1-7 hours 3 6 5 3 1 Average plateau 3-7 hours 86 86 93 94 97

[0277] It is observed that the retention of the curl intervals of aqueous solutions 4 and 5 are equivalent or superior to solutions 2 and 3. Solution 4 containing only 1% of styling agent gives a retention equivalent to solution 3 which contains 5 times more styling agent. The highest retention of curl interval is achieved with solution 5 containing 5% of Beauté by Roquette ST 720.

[0278] Beauté by Roquette ST 720 pea starch therefore has styling properties for curl retention that are better than polyvinylpyrrolidone, both in retaining strand lengths and in retaining curl intervals.

[0279] The retention of the loops is then evaluated with solutions 3 and 5 under tropical conditions (90% RH and 35°C). The results in Tables 4 and 5 are obtained.

[0280] Table 5 shows the measurements relating to the retention of the loops in length and in intervals at 90% RH and 35°C. Time (hour) Length Retention (%) Interval Retention (%) Solution 3 Solution 5 Solution 3 Solution 5 0 100 100 100 100 1 27 57 73 93 2 25 47 71 90 3 25 42 71 88 4 23 40 70 85 5 23 40 66 84 6 21 38 66 82 7 21 37 63 82 8 21 37 62 80 Initial Decrease 73 43 27 7 Decrease 1-4 hours 5 20 10 11 Average Plateau 2-4 hours 23 39 67 84

[0282] It is observed that the retention of curls in tropical conditions with a styling solution containing BBR ST720 pea starch is better than with a styling solution containing polyvinylpyrrolidone, both for the retention of the length of the curls and for the retention of the intervals of the curls.

[0283] A leave-on styling cream “Styling cream HC-010-018” is then evaluated according to the composition in table 6. Phase Ingredient Styling Cream Placébo Styling Cream With Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 Al Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Al Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 0 6 A2 Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 4 4 B Montanov 68 4 4 B Lanette 16 1 1 B Cegesoft VP 5 5 B Argan oil 6 6 B Lipovol C-76 3 3 B Shea butter 3 3 C Phenoxyethanol 1 1

[0285] The loop retention evaluation protocol is applied, and the results in Table 7 are obtained.

[0286] [Tables?] Time (hour) Length retention (%) Interval retention (%) Placebo BBR ST720 Placebo BBR ST720 0 100 100 100 100 1 52 65 90 95 2 46 56 89 92 3 40 54 88 90 4 40 54 88 90 Initial decrease 48 35 10 5 Decrease 1-4 hours 12 10 1 5 Average plateau 2-4 hours 42 55 89 91

[0287] The curl retention styling properties of the placebo cream are improved by the addition of Beauté by Roquette® ST720 pea starch. The initial decrease in length of strand length retention is decreased, and length retention stabilizes at a higher value. Similarly, interval retention decreases less initially, and stabilizes at a higher average value.

[0288] Other examples of cosmetic formulations comprising Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch as a styling agent, and thus exhibiting improved curl retention in length and intervals, are given below.

[0289] The formula “Curly spray HC-020-004” is presented in Table 8. Phase Ingredient %yNl^N Al Water Qsp 100 Al Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 5 Al Beauté by Roquette® PO 455 8 A2 Kelcogel CG-HA 0.1 A3 Beauté by Roquette® DS 146 3 B Coconut oil 4 B Sunflower oil 6 C Phenoxyethanol 0.7

[0291]

[0292] The formula “Styling gel HC-021-002” is presented in table 9. [Tables9] Phase Ingredient %yNl^N Al Water Qsp 100 Al Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 5 Al Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 3 A2 Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 7 B Alcohol Denat 5 B Microcare PE 1

[0293] The formula “Beach wave styler HC-008-005” is shown in Table 10.

[0294] [TableauxlO] Phase Ingredient %yNl^N Al Water Qsp 100 Al Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 3 A2 Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 5 B Vitis vinifera seed oil 1 B Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.5 B Glyceryl stearate 0.5 B Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 0.5 C Microcare PE 1

[0295] Thus, and advantageously, these compositions make it possible to increase the retention of hair curls and in particular make it possible to increase the retention of the length of the curls and / or the retention of the interval of the curls.

[0296] Example 2: Loop compression

[0297] Here, the retention of a curl under compression is evaluated according to the “curl compression” measurement protocol of the “MTT175” device from the manufacturer “Dia-Stron Limited”. A standardized dry lock of hair is shaped into a curl on a 35 mm diameter cylinder after being coated with a styling composition, then wound onto said cylinder and dried in place for a period of 24 hours. The curl is placed in the device, which subjects it to ten compression-decompression cycles in a vertical movement, and analyzes the compression forces involved to calculate: - the longevity of the compression resistance: this is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum force before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed as a “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the resistance, - the longevity of the compression stiffness: this is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum force gradient before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the stiffness.

[0298] The measurement parameters used are: 15% compression; 10 cycles; speed of 50 mm / min; contact force 5 gmf; maximum force 2000 gmf; gauging at each cycle. The Fibra Curl software uses the measurements to provide the values ​​of the compression properties (longevity of resistance, longevity of rigidity). A “Wilcoxon Rank Sum” test was carried out to verify statistically significant differences between the groups for each parameter. In all cases, a confidence level of 95% (p-value of 0.05) was achieved.

[0299] Strands of 18 cm length and 15 mm width are prepared from “European virgin ex IHIP” hair strands. The strands are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0300] 1 / wash

[0301] The strand is rinsed under tap water with a shower head using water at 35°C + / -2°C at approximately 4 L / min for 30 seconds. Excess water is removed by gently pressing the strand between two fingers from root to tip three times. 1 mL of a 14% dry matter sodium laureth sulfate solution per 1 gram of wet hair is applied evenly to each strand. The strand is then manually massaged using a zigzag motion. The strand is then rinsed under tap water at 35°C + / -2°C at approximately 4 L / min for 30 seconds. Remove excess water by gently squeezing the strand between two fingers from root to tip three times. Leave the strand to dry overnight in an air-conditioned room at 20°C.

[0302] 2 / application of the styling product

[0303] 2 mL of the styling solution to be tested is applied evenly to a strand using a syringe. The strand is combed five times to distribute the solution throughout the strand. Each strand is pinched across its entire width to ensure there are no gaps between the fibers of the strand. The strand is pulled between two gloved fingers three times to further distribute the styling solution and to reshape the strand to its maximum width. The strand is wound onto the 35 mm diameter round support and left to dry at 21°C + / -2°C for 24 hours. Once dry, the curled strand is carefully removed from the support.

[0304] 3 / measure

[0305] The loop-shaped wick is placed in the MTT175 device configured for loop compression according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The automated measurement is launched according to the parameters presented above.

[0306] The styling compositions evaluated separately are gels prepared according to the compositions in Table 11.

[0307] [Tableauxll] Phase Ingredient Styling gel Placébo Styling gel With Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 Al Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Al Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 0 5 A2 Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 5 5 B Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 3 3 B Alcohol denat 5 5 C Microcare PE 1 1

[0308] [Tablesl2] Placébo Avec Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 Compressive strength durability (%) 80.49 93.06 Compressive stiffness durability (%) 71.57 88.83

[0309] For both the placebo styling gel and the styling gel with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch, there is a reduction in hold and compression stiffness when the curl is subjected to the ten compression-decompression cycle. This reduction is advantageously lower for the styling cream with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch.

[0310] The styling cream containing Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch provides styling with better compression hold and compression stiffness than the placebo cream. Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch increases curl hold under compression and also increases curl stiffness under compression.

[0311] The compositions according to the invention advantageously make it possible to increase the longevity of the compression strength of the loop and / or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression rigidity of the loop.

[0312] Example 3: three-point bending

[0313] Here we evaluate the bending properties of strands shaped into a “flat band” with a styling composition without or with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch. We use the “3-point bend” measurement protocol of the “MTT175” device from the manufacturer “Dia-Stron Limited”. A strand styled “in a flat band” is subjected to a bending stress in its center, while being held on supports at its ends. The data acquired by the device are processed by the “Fibra. Bending” software characterizes each braid by 4 parameters: - maximum bending strength: this is the maximum force to be applied to break the film of styling product on the strand, - maximum bending rigidity: this is the maximum force gradient to break the film of styling product, - the longevity of the flexural strength: this is the complement to 100% of the relative variation of the maximum force before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed as a “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the outfit, - the longevity of the flexural rigidity: this is the complement to 100% of the relative variation of the maximum gradient of force before breakage of the film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in "%"; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the rigidity.

[0314] The measurement parameters used for maximum strength and maximum bending rigidity are: maximum deflection; 1 cycle; speed of 50 mm / min; contact force 5 gmf; maximum force 2000 gmf.

[0315] The measurement parameters used for the longevity of the resistance and the bending rigidity are: deflection to be determined; 10 cycles; speed of 50 mm / min; contact force 5 gmf; maximum force 2000 gmf; gauging at each cycle.

[0316] The locks of hair are identical to those used in Example 2, and are prepared in the form of flat strips in the same manner as Example 2, following the washing and product application protocol, except that the final shaping step is done by arranging the locks flat on a plate.

[0317] The styling compositions evaluated separately are prepared according to the compositions in Table 13. They are in the form of gels.

[0318] [Tables 13] Phase Ingredient Styling gel Placébo Styling gel with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 Al Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Al Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 0 7 A2 Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 5 5 B Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 3 3 B Alcohol denat 5 5 C Microcare PE 1 1

[0319] [Tablesl4] Placébo Avec Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 Maximum flexural strength (in gmf) 602.52 894.81 Maximum flexural stiffness (in gmf / mm) 147.20 100.57 Flexural strength longevity (%) 91.93 98.63 Flexural stiffness longevity (%) 90.29 90.52

[0320] Regarding the maximum flexural hold, the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 provides a higher value than the placebo composition: this means that Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 allows styling with better hold than the placebo.

[0321] Concerning the maximum flexural rigidity, the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 provides a lower value than the placebo composition: this means that Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 allows shaping with lower rigidity than the placebo, therefore more flexible shaping than the placebo, therefore a reduced “cardboard” effect compared to the placebo.

[0322] Regarding the longevity of the flexural hold, the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 provides a value of the percentage change closer to zero, and lower in absolute value than the placebo: this means that Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 allows a shaping with better hold / resistance to flexing, i.e. better resistance to mechanical constraints.

[0323] Regarding the longevity of the flexural rigidity, the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch provides a percentage change value almost equal to the placebo: this means that Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch provides a longevity rigidity equivalent to the placebo, therefore an equivalent flexural resistance rigidity.

[0324] Thus, the compositions according to the invention also make it possible to increase the maximum bending strength, to reduce the maximum bending rigidity, to increase the longevity of the bending strength of a loop and to increase the longevity of the bending rigidity of a loop.

[0325] Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch therefore increases the power styling / fixing, reducing the “cardboard” effect, and increasing the longevity of the curls / hairstyle.

[0326] Example 4: thermal protection

[0327] Here, the thermal protection property of the hair by Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch is evaluated through an ex-vivo test for quantifying the oxidation of hair proteins under the action of heat. The quantification of the oxidation is done by microscopic epi-fluorescence associated with a densitometric analysis of the images. The quantifications are done according to two views: the longitudinal view (i.e. view of the hair in its length), and the sagittal view (i.e. view of the section of the hair after cutting). The longitudinal view makes it possible to quantify the oxidation on the surface of the hair over a portion of its length. The sagittal view makes it possible to quantify the oxidation in two parts of the hair: the cuticle (i.e. the thin outer layer) and the cortex (i.e. the body of the hair).

[0328] Three groups of wicks are made up: - a “control” group, i.e. negative control: these strands are not treated, and are kept at room temperature for the duration of the test, - a “positive control” group: these strands are not treated, and are exposed to heating at 95°C for 20 minutes, - a group treated with an aqueous solution of Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch, and exposed to heating at 95°C for 20 minutes.

[0329] Three hairs are collected and analyzed per group of strands, and the group oxidation level is calculated. This group oxidation level is the average of the group fluorescence intensities normalized by the average intensity of the control group sample. Figures 1 and 2 present the fluorescence microscopic images according to the longitudinal view and according to the sagittal view respectively.

[0330] The thermal oxidation protection property for the treated group is calculated according to the formula:

[0331] Protection (%) = [Oxidation level (positive control) - Oxidation level (treated group)] / [Oxidation level (positive control) - Oxidation level (control)] x 100

[0332] In table 15, the oxidation level is listed (normalized on the control). Control Positive control With BBR ST720 Sagittal view: totality 100 194 144 Sagittal view: cuticle 100 239 156 Sagittal view: cortex 100 182 141

[0334] Table 16 presents the results relating to protection against oxidation.

[0335]

[0336] Control Positive control With BBR ST720 Sagittal view: totality 100% 0% 54% Sagittal view: cuticle 100% 0% 59% Sagittal view: cortex 100% 0% 50%

[0337]

[0338]

[0339]

[0340]

[0341]

[0342]

[0343]

[0344]

[0345] Densitometric analysis of fluorescence measured over the entire sagittal view of hair treated with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch and subjected to heating shows that protein oxidation is significantly lower than for the positive control. This reduction in protein oxidation is measured in both the cuticle and the cortex. Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch therefore protects hair from heat-induced oxidation. Legume starch helps to protect hair from stress and therefore prevent and reduce hair stress. Methods of implementation 1. Non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch to increase hair curl retention and / or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of curl compression strength and / or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of curl compression stiffness. 2. Non-therapeutic use according to embodiment 1, characterized in that the modified legume starch makes it possible to increase the retention of the length of the loops and / or the retention of the interval of the loops. 3. Non-therapeutic use according to embodiment 1 or 2, characterized in that the modified legume starch further makes it possible to increase the maximum bending strength and / or reduce the maximum bending rigidity and / or increase the longevity of the bending strength of a loop and / or increase the longevity of the bending rigidity of a loop. 4. Non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch to prevent, eliminate or reduce hair stress. 5. Non-therapeutic use according to embodiment 4, characterized in that the modified legume starch makes it possible to prevent, eliminate or reduce hair oxidation induced by thermal stress and / or chemical stress. 6. Non-therapeutic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, characterized in that the legume starch is a pea starch. 7. Non-therapeutic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, characterized in that the starch is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated starch, preferably hydroxypropylated.

[0346] 8. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - at least one legume starch, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water

[0347] 9. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - at least one legume starch, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water, - at least one gelling agent, - at least one coloring matter.

[0348] 10. Method for shaping hair curls and / or prevention, of eliminating or reducing hair stress comprising a step of applying a composition according to embodiments 8 or 9 to the hair.

[0349] 11. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to one of any of embodiments 8 or 9, for shaping the hair, preferably shaping the curls of the hair.

[0350] 12. Non-therapeutic use according to embodiment 11, for increasing the hair curl retention and / or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of curl hold and / or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of curl stiffness.

[0351] 13. Non-therapeutic use according to embodiment 11 or 12, characterized in that the legume starch further makes it possible to increase the maximum bending strength and / or reduce the maximum bending rigidity and / or increase the longevity of the bending strength of a loop and / or increase the longevity of the bending rigidity of a loop.

[0352] 14. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the method of achievement 8 or 9, to prevent, eliminate or reduce hair stress.

[0353] 15. Non-therapeutic use according to embodiment 14, characterized in that that the cosmetic composition helps prevent, eliminate or reduce hair oxidation induced by thermal stress and / or chemical stress.

Claims

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic use of a hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress, characterized in that said legume starch makes it possible to prevent, eliminate or reduce hair oxidation induced by thermal stress and / or chemical stress.

2. Non-therapeutic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal stress is induced by drying, regular or not, of the hair and / or the use of straightening irons or any heating device and / or UV rays during exposure to the sun.

3. Non-therapeutic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the chemical stress is induced by the application of oxidizing products and / or products for bleaching the hair, completely or partially and / or products for creating curls, and / or products intended for perming or straightening and / or frequent exposure to chlorine.

4. Non-therapeutic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said legume starch is a pea starch.

5. Non-therapeutic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said starch is hydroxypropylated.

6. Non-therapeutic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said starch is included in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, said composition further comprising: - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water

7. Non-therapeutic use according to claim 4, characterized in that said cosmetic composition further comprises - at least one gelling agent, - at least one coloring material.

8. A method of preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress comprising a step of applying a hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, characterized in that said starch Legume helps prevent, eliminate or reduce hair oxidation induced by thermal stress and / or chemical stress.

9. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that said starch is included in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, said composition further comprising: - at least one volatile oil, - at least one non-volatile oil, - at least one wax, - at least one surfactant, - water

10. Method according to claim 9, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one gelling agent and at least one coloring material.

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