Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, cationic polymer and glycol

Abstract

Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, cationic polymer and glycol The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, - at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, - at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, cationic polymer and glycol

[0001] The present invention relates to an aqueous transparent cosmetic composition, comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, at least 3.5% by weight of a glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms and at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

[0002] In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as a skin regenerating active ingredient by stimulating the synthesis of collagen responsible for skin firmness, or as a depigmenting agent, as this vitamin reduces the production of melanin responsible for brown spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0003] However, when ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives is introduced into an aqueous medium at high levels (i.e. for example greater than 1% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight), its formulation is difficult to achieve, because it destabilizes and changes color drastically.

[0004] This is why aqueous compositions of the serum or solution type are found on the market, which include ascorbic acid in the form of powder to be solubilized extemporaneously. The disadvantage of this type of product is that vitamin C ends up degrading in the aqueous medium. These products are thus losing their appeal because consumers prefer, for reasons of practicality, serums without prior manipulation, with the guarantee of color stability and without chemical degradation.

[0005] There is therefore a need for stable aqueous compositions comprising ascorbic acid. It is possible to gel the aqueous phase of such compositions using a particular cationic polymer, preferably polyquaternium-67. This polymer has the triple advantage of providing viscosity to the medium and leaving a soft film on the skin and reducing the degradation of the color of the ascorbic acid over time.

[0006] However, these aqueous compositions of the serum or gelled solution type nevertheless have the disadvantage of forming, when spread on the skin, a non-homogeneous deposit, which whitens during shearing, and which is not satisfactory for the consumer. Such whitening is called "soaping" in the present application.

[0007] There is therefore a need for an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, which is stable, i.e. which remains the same color as originally (generally white) and of the same texture, which does not degrade the active ingredient, and which does not present soaping upon application.

[0008] Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the association of a specific cationic polymer with hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol in a content of at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to obtain compositions comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, which are stable, and which do not exhibit soaping upon application.

[0009] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0010] - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives,

[0011] - at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one glycol comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms,

[0012] - at least one cationic polymer chosen from cellulosic polymers ca tionic compounds modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, the percentages being by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] Preferably, the composition has a pH between 5 and 7.

[0014] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0015] By “physiologically acceptable aqueous medium” is meant a medium comprising water and compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and / or appendages.

[0016] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous solution, more preferably an aqueous solution with a slightly gelled appearance. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is single-phase. This composition may be called a “serum”. By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, a slightly gelled appearance, runny, and preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e. at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid).

[0017] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of lipophilic phase. By "substantially free of lipophilic phase" is meant that the composition according to the invention has a lipophilic phase content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of lipophilic phase.

[0018] By “lipophilic phase” is meant a phase comprising at least one lipophilic compound chosen from oils and perfumes.

[0019] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. By "substantially free of surfactants" is meant that the com position according to the invention has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight.

[0020] The surfactants may preferably be peptizers whose concentration is between 0.1 and 2% by weight which allow the solubilization of a small quantity of oils, lipophilic compounds or perfume (concentration of perfume or oil between 0.05% and 2% by weight).

[0021] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is transparent.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “transparent composition” means a composition having a turbidity value of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.

[0023] NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement for the turbidity of a composition. The measurement of turbidity is carried out, for example, with a turbidimeter model 2100P from Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).

[0024] Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value of between 1 and 200 NTU, preferably between 1 and 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU. Aqueous phase

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. Said medium comprises water.

[0026] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or a natural thermal or mineral water.

[0027] The composition preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight.

[0028] The composition preferably comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 70%.

[0029] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C.

[0030] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, certain polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0032] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. carbon, more preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, di-glycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is a polyol such as glycerol.

[0034] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of water-soluble organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight. Glycol containing 5 to 7 carbon atoms

[0035] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0036] By glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms is meant a diol comprising a C5 to C7 carbon chain, devoid of ether function, and in which the two hydroxyl groups are carried by different carbon atoms. The C5 to C7 carbon chain can be linear or branched.

[0037] Preferably, the glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms is hexylene glycol, also called 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, or pentylene glycol (also called pentane-1,2-diol).

[0038] 2-Methyl-2,4-pentanediol differs from 1,2-hexylene glycol in the location of the hydroxyl groups and in the carbon chain: the hydroxyl groups are positioned at 2 and 4 on the branched carbon chain for 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol (hexylene glycol), whereas 1,2-hexylene glycol contains hydroxyl groups at 1 and 2 on the linear carbon chain.

[0039] The glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms is present in the physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

[0040] The composition comprises at least 3.5% by weight of glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it comprises from 4% to 15% by weight of glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight. Ascorbic acid or its derivatives

[0041] The composition according to the invention also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0042] Ascorbic acid within the meaning of the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the structure of formula (I):

[0043] [Chem.l]

[0044] By "ascorbic acid derivative" is preferably meant a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (notably sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate also called Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0045] By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in D form, that is to say in the form of glucopyranose a or [3 or furanose a or [3, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is 2-OaD-glucopyranoside of L-ascorbic acid, in particular available from the company HAYASHIBARA.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid, preferably L-ascorbic acid.

[0047] The composition comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight.

[0048] Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 9% to 17% by weight.

[0049] Cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain

[0050] The cationic polymer according to the invention is chosen from cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, preferably polyquaternium-67.

[0051] The cationic polymer according to the invention is a cationic cellulose polymer modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. For the purposes of the present invention, a "cationic cellulose polymer" designates any non-silicone cellulose polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

[0052] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds. The cellulosic polymer may be associative, i.e. have in its structure at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.

[0053] The cationic cellulosic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 5000 and 5.106, preferably of between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0054] Among the cationic celluloses, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

[0055] Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may be made in particular of quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0056] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

[0058] [Chem.2]

[0059] in which:

[0060] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN-i--, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear, in C1-C30, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide;

[0061] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN-i—, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl, C1-C30, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

[0062] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

[0063] - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0064] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0065] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl, C8-C30; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear alkyl, C1-C4, in particular methyl.

[0066] Even better, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0067] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0068] The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0069] We can notably cite the polymers with INCI names:

[0070] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL company;

[0071] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM® ;

[0072] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as CRODACEL QL® product and

[0073] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) such as CRODACEL QS® product, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0074] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0075] More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67).

[0076] It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0077] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight. pH of the composition

[0078] The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0079] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

[0080] The base is notably used to increase the final pH of the composition between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0081] The base may be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide.

[0082] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Indeed, these bases are more advantageous than nitrogenous bases, such as triethanolamine, in terms of color stabilization (i.e. less yellowing).

[0083] Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a base:ascorbic acid weight ratio ranging from 0.22 to 0.30.

[0084] The composition may also comprise one or more additive(s) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions such as, for example, active ingredients, sequestrants, additional glycols other than the aforementioned glycols comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms, preservatives or even perfumes.

[0085] Preferably, among the active ingredients that can be used, adenosine, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide (Vitamin B3), tocopherol or even perfumes are preferred.

[0086] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant.

[0087] Among the preferred sequestrants, mention may be made of salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

[0088] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound of formula (II):

[0089] [Chem.3] H [ ji READ " HO' X) (II)

[0090] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

[0091] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0092] Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Na-trlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] It is understood that the salt content of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt introduced into the composition.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment variant, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid can be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight in water.

[0096] Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Na-trlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

[0097] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional glycol different from the aforementioned glycols comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms. Preferably, such a glycol is a glycol comprising 8 carbon atoms, preferably caprylyl glycol.

[0098] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least caprylyl glycol. Indeed, the presence of caprylyl glycol, coupled with the presence of at least 3.5% by weight of hexylene glycol, promotes the production of transparent compositions.

[0099] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.7% to 1% by weight of glycol comprising 8 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one preservative.

[0101] Among the preferred preservatives, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and their mixtures.

[0102] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.7% to 1% by weight of preservative(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0104] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given. EXAMPLES

[0105] In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w). Example 1: Compositions according to the invention

[0106] Formulas A and B according to the invention are prepared below according to the following protocol:

[0107] In a first beaker (phase A):

[0108] 1. Introduce water (T>60°C) and add in the following order the ingredients of phase A: glycerin, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylene diamine di-succinate, hexylene glycol or pentylene glycol at 60°C;

[0109] 1. Once everything has dissolved and there are no more crystals, let it cool.

[0110] In a second beaker (phase B):

[0111] 1. Introduce water at room temperature and add ascorbic acid;

[0112] 1. Adjust the pH to 5.8 with soda;

[0113] 1. Add polyquaternium-67 with medium to long stirring to ensure efficient deployment of the polymer.

[0114] Mix the two beakers (pour phase A into phase B) and make the QS in water if necessary. Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Formula A Formula B Formula CA Water 25 25 25 A Hexylene glycol 5 5 0 A Pentylene glycol 0 0 5 A Glycerin 7 7 7 A Caprylyl glycol Qs Qs Qs A Preservative(s) Qs Qs Qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) Qs Qs Qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Ascorbic acid 12 15 15 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5

[0116] Example 2: Influence of different ingredients on the soaping of aqueous formulas comprising at least 10% ascorbic acid and 0.5% poly-quaternium-67

[0117] The following comparative compositions are prepared by the following protocol:

[0118] Formulas A and B according to the invention are prepared below according to the following protocol:

[0119] In a first beaker (phase A):

[0120] 1. Introduce water (T>60°C) and add in the following order the ingredients of phase A: glycerin, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylene diamine di-succinate, hexylene glycol or pentylene glycol at 60°C; 2. Once everything has dissolved and there are no more crystals, let it cool.

[0121] In a second beaker (phase B):

[0122] 1. Introduce water at room temperature and add ascorbic acid; 2. Adjust the pH to 5.8 with soda; 3. Add polyquaternium-67 with medium to long agitation to ensure efficient deployment of the polymer.

[0123] Mix the two beakers and make the QS with water if necessary.

[0124] The appearance of the compositions is evaluated by eye.

[0125] The effect on soaping was evaluated as follows:

[0126] The test was carried out blindly on 6 people. Soaping was evaluated in ap applying a drop of product to your hand and quickly shearing with the other hand until the product is absorbed.

[0127] Finally, the stability of the compositions was evaluated for up to 2 months at 45°C. Comparative examples Cl to C4 - effect of oils Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Cl C2 C3 C4 A Water 25 25 25 25 A Glycerin 7 7 7 7 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs B Water qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 C ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0 0.05 0.2 0.5 C PEG-40 HY-DROGENATED CASTOR OIL (EUMULGIN CO 40 from BASF) 0 5 5 5 Appearance Transparent Transparent Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ ++ No soaping No soaping Stability Stable Not stable after 5 days Not stable after 5 days Not stable after 5 days

[0129]

[0130] The addition of isopropyl myristate helps eliminate soaping, but the formulas are not stable. Comparative examples C5 to C8 - effect of silicone compounds Phase Ingredients (% w / w) C5 C6 C7 C8 A Water 25 25 25 25 A Glycerin 7 7 7 7 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs B Water qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 D BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER DIMETHYL SILANE (DOWSIL2511 COSMETIC WAX from Dow Corning) 1 0.5 D PEG-12 di-methicone - - 1 0.5 (Dow Corning 193 Dow Corning Fluid) Appearance Transparent Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ ++ ++ ++

[0132] The addition of silicone compounds, soluble in the composition, does not make it possible to eliminate soaping.

[0133] Comparative examples C9 to C11 - effect of NaCl or glycerol

[0134] [Tables4] Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Formula C9 Formula CIO Formula Cil A Water 25 25 25 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 B Poly quaternium- 67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 C NaCl - 1 - C Glycerin - - 10 Appearance Translucent Translucent Translucent Soaping ++ ++ ++

[0135] The addition of NaCl or glycerin does not reduce soaping.

[0136] Comparative examples Cl2 to Cl4 - effect of ethanol Phase Ingredients (% w / w) C12 C13 C14 A Water 25 25 25 A Glycerin 7 7 7 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs B Water qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 C Ethanol - 5 2.5 Appearance Translucent Translucent Translucent Soaping ++ ++ ++

[0138] The addition of ethanol does not reduce soaping.

[0139] Comparative example Cl 5 - effect of methyl gluceth-20 Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Cl C15 A Water 25 25 A Glycerin 7 7 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs B Water qspl00 qspl00 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 C Methyl gluceth-20 (Glucam E-20 Humectant from Lubrizol) 0 4 Appearance Clear Clear Soaping ++ ++

[0141] The addition of methyl gluceth-20 does not eliminate soaping. Comparative examples C16 to C19 - effect of polyols Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Formula C9 C16 C17 A Water 25 25 25 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Poly quaternium- 67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 C Propylene glycol - 5 - C Dipropylene glycol - - 5 Appearance Translucent Translucent Translucent Soaping ++ ++ ++ Phase Ingredients (% w / w) C18 C19 A Water 25 25 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine di-succinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Ascorbic acid 10 10 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 C Butylene glycol 5 2.5 Appearance Clear Clear Soaping ++ ++

[0144] The addition of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or butylene glycol does not reduce soaping.

[0145] Examples according to the invention (C and D} and comparative C20 - effect of hexylene glycol Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Cl Formula C C20 Formula DA Water 25 25 25 25 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs A Glycerin 7 7 7 7 B Water qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 C Hexylene glycol 0 5 2.5 7 Appearance Clear Clear Clear Transparent Soaping ++ No soaping ++ No soaping

[0147] Hexylene glycol has the advantage of reducing soaping or even eliminating soaping, at a concentration greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight in the formula.

[0148] Examples according to the invention (A and B} and comparative Cl2 and C21 - effect of hexylene slycol Phase Ingredients (% w / w) C12 Formula A C21 Formula BA Water 25 25 25 25 A Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs qs qs A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs A Glycerin 7 7 7 7 A Water QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO B Ascorbic acid 12 12 15 15 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 C Hexylene glycol - 5 - 5 Appearance Translucent Transparent Translucent Transparent Soaping ++ No soaping ++ No soaping

[0150] Surprisingly, only hexylene glycol, at a concentration greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight in the formula, not only has the advantage of reducing or even eliminating soaping, but also of solubilizing caprylyl glycol to promote transparency to the serum.

[0151] Example E according to the invention and comparative C22 - effect of pentylene glycol Phase Ingredients (% w / w) Formula C22 Formula EA Water 25 25 A Pentylene glycol - 5 A Chelator (Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Na-trlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs A Caprylyl glycol qs qs A Preservative(s) qs qs A Glycerin 7 7 B Water Qspl00 Qspl00 B Ascorbic acid 15 15 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium- 67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 Appearance Clear Clear Soaping ++ No soaping

[0153] Surprisingly, pentylene glycol, at a concentration greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight in the formula, not only has the advantage of reducing or even eliminating soaping, but also of solubilizing caprylyl glycol to promote transparency to the serum.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, - at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, - at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, the percentages being by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably from 30% to 93% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 70%.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises from 4% to 15% by weight of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms is hexylene glycol or pentylene glycol, preferably hexylene glycol.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 9% to 17% by weight.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of cationic polymer, for example relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain; preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide: [Chem. 2]

9.

10.

11.

12.

13. and preferably among hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name polyquatemium-67). Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is substantially free of lipophilic phase, preferably totally free of lipophilic phase. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is transparent. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional glycol different from the aforementioned glycols comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms, preferably at least one glycol comprising 8 carbon atoms, preferably at least caprylyl glycol. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12.