LIPSTICKS WITH NATURAL OIL, FATTY ALCOHOL WAX AND FILLER PARTICLES

Lipstick compositions using natural oils and waxes with filler particles provide a creamy texture and ethical compliance by eliminating beeswax, achieving transfer resistance and long-lasting color.

FR3127405B1Active Publication Date: 2025-10-24LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2021010335
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-09-30
Publication Date
2025-10-24
Estimated Expiration
2041-09-30

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing lipstick compositions face challenges in achieving a creamy texture without using animal-derived ingredients like beeswax, which are increasingly sought after by consumers due to ethical concerns.

Method used

Lipstick compositions comprising natural oils, fatty alcohol waxes, and filler particles, formulated to be anhydrous and in the form of a stick, providing good textural properties while minimizing or eliminating animal-derived ingredients.

Benefits of technology

The compositions offer a creamy and desirable texture, with transfer resistance and long-lasting color, while being free of animal-derived ingredients, ensuring ethical compliance and effective application.

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Abstract

LIPSTICKS COMPRISING A NATURAL OIL, A FATTY ALCOHOL WAX AND FILLER PARTICLES Lipstick compositions comprising at least one natural oil, at least one fatty alcohol wax and particles of at least one filler are provided, wherein the lipstick compositions contain a minimal amount of ingredients of animal origin and / or beeswax, or are free of such ingredients. Methods and kits including these compositions are also provided. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: LIPSTICKS COMPRISING A NATURAL OIL, A FATTY ALCOHOL WAX AND FILLER PARTICLES FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to lipstick compositions comprising at least one natural oil, at least one fatty alcohol wax and particles of at least one filler. Preferably, the lipstick compositions contain a minimal amount of ingredients of animal origin and / or beeswax, or are free of such ingredients. context statement

[0002] Many lipstick compositions contain animal-derived ingredients or beeswax to achieve a desired texture. Due to growing concerns about how these ingredients may be obtained, many customers prefer to avoid cosmetics containing these ingredients and instead opt for products that do not use these ingredients. However, without these ingredients (especially beeswax), it can be difficult to achieve a creamy and desirable texture in a lipstick composition.

[0003] Document US 9,308,397, according to the abstract, relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (A) at least one structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase comprising: i) at least one aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles; and ii) at least one structuring agent in an amount effective to viscoelastically thicken, but not to solidify, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase; and (B) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one lipid component, wherein (A) is compatible when combined with (B) to form a long-lasting cosmetic composition.

[0004] Document US 2017 / 0 189 278 (ES2751661), according to the abstract, relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one synthetic polymer hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition also comprising at least one soft-focus filler.

[0005] Document US 2016 / 0 038 384, according to the abstract, relates to a gel system comprising a fractal network of nanoparticles and macroscopic particles, wherein the gel system is capable of forming an “optical gel” effective for blurring wrinkles and fine lines as a result of size range differences between fractal particles and macroscopic particles. Cosmetic compositions comprising these gels and methods for their use are disclosed.

[0006] US 9,138,388, according to the abstract, relates to methods for imparting transfer resistance to a lipstick, comprising: adding to one or more colorants, a mixture of coconut alkanes comprising a volatile oil composition having from 50 to 100% by weight of a mixture of linear paraffins which include 70 to 99% by weight of at least one linear paraffin selected from C5, C10 and C12 paraffins and mixtures thereof; heating a coconut gel comprising a vegetable oil, Cocos Nucifera oil, a styrene / butadiene copolymer and polyethylene; and adding together the colorant and the mixture of coconut alkanes and the coconut gel.

[0007] Document US 2016 / 0 008 263 (DE 2020 15 004 867), according to the abstract, relates to lipstick compositions which are substantial, aesthetically appealing, do not build up on the lips, are easy to spread and moisturize the lips. The compositions comprise cosmetic ingredients such as conditioning agents, moisturizing agents, antioxidants, structuring agents, emulsifiers, silicone-containing compounds, essential oils, thickening agents, preservatives and colorants, for example.

[0008] There remains a need for improved cosmetic compositions having good textural properties, while minimizing or eliminating the amount of animal-derived ingredients and / or other ingredients whose production processes are perceived to be problematic, such as beeswax.

[0009] Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a lip care and / or makeup and / or treatment composition that exhibits good textural properties while minimizing or eliminating animal-derived ingredients and / or beeswax. Summary of the invention

[0010] The present invention relates to lipstick compositions comprising at least one natural oil, at least one fatty alcohol wax and particles of at least one filler. Preferably, the lipstick compositions contain a minimal amount of ingredients of animal origin and / or beeswax, or are free of such ingredients. Preferably, the compositions are anhydrous and in the form of a stick.

[0011] The present invention also relates to colored lipstick compositions comprising at least one coloring agent, at least one natural oil, at least one fatty alcohol wax and particles of at least one filler. Preferably, the lipstick compositions contain a minimal amount of ingredients of animal origin and / or, or are free of such ingredients. Preferably, the compositions are anhydrous and are in the form of a stick.

[0012] The present invention also relates to methods of treating, caring for, improving the appearance of and / or making up the lips by applying the compositions of the present invention to the lips in an amount sufficient to treat, care for, improve the appearance of and / or make up the lips.

[0013] It is understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are only exemplary and explanatory, and are not restrictive of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] As used herein, the term "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0015] “Film former” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or a resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and / or dissipated on the substrate.

[0016] "Transfer resistance," as used herein, refers to the quality exhibited by compositions that are not readily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, clothing or skin. Transfer resistance may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating it. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition may be evaluated by a "kiss" test or a material transfer test. This test may involve applying the composition to the lips, followed by rubbing a material, for example, a sheet of paper or a cotton ball, against the lips after a certain time has elapsed after application, for example, 2 minutes after application.Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as the transfer from an individual's lips to a garment when donning the garment after a certain time has elapsed after the composition is applied to the lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., the garment, paper, or cotton ball) can then be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if a majority of the product remains on the wearer's lips. Further, the amount transferred can be compared to that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred from the lips to the substrate.

[0017] “Long-lasting” compositions, as used herein, refer to compositions whose color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as seen with the naked eye, after an extended period of time. Long-lasting properties may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-lasting may be evaluated by a test involving application of a composition to the lips and evaluation of the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately after its application to the lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a period of time, for example, after 24 hours or 36 hours. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0018] Depending on the intended application, for example a stick, the hardness of the composition may also be taken into account. The hardness of a composition may, for example, be expressed in gram-force (gf). The composition of the present invention may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2,000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900 gf, and further such as from 20 gf to 600 gf, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0019] This hardness can be measured in two ways, for example. A first hardness test is according to a method of penetrating a probe into the composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example, Texture Analyzer model PLUS-UPGRADE from Stable Micro Systems equipped with a stainless steel cylinder having a height of 28 mm and a diameter of 2 mm). The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 °C in the center of 5 samples of the composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm / s then at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and finally at a post-speed of 10 mm / s, the total displacement being 2 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of the first maximum peak before the drop in the observed value.

[0020] The second hardness test is the "cheese wire" method, which consists of cutting a composition into a 12.4 mm diameter rod and measuring its hardness at 20°C using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co. or a similar machine at a speed of 100 mm / minute. The hardness value obtained by this method is expressed in grams as the shear force required to cut a rod under the above-mentioned conditions. According to this method, the hardness of the compositions according to the present invention which may be in the form of rods may, for example, range from 120 gf to 270 gf, preferably from 170 gf to 220 gf, for a rod sample of 12.4 mm diameter.

[0021] The hardness of the composition of the present invention may be such that the compositions are self-supporting and may readily disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on keratinous materials. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact resistance to the inventive compositions, which may be molded or cast, for example in the form of sticks or cups.

[0022] A person skilled in the art may choose to evaluate a composition using at least one of the hardness tests described above depending on the intended application and the desired hardness. If an acceptable hardness value is obtained, taking into account the intended application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the composition falls within the preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0023] “Substituted” as used herein means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

[0024] “Volatile” as used herein means that the flash point is less than about 100°C.

[0025] “Non-volatile,” as used herein, means having a flash point greater than about 100°C.

[0026] “Low water content” means that the compositions contain less than 6% of water (by weight). Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 5% water, and preferably less than 4% water.

[0027] “Anhydrous” means that the compositions contain less than 1% water (in weight). Preferably, the anhydrous compositions of the present invention contain less than 0.5% water, and preferably no water.

[0028] “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that is made up of at least two monomers.

[0029] “Exempt” or “substantially exempt” or “devoid of” as used herein means that, although it is preferable that no amount of the specific component is present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of it in the compositions of the invention provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. Thus, for example, "free of triethanolamine (TEA)" means that TEA is absent from the composition (i.e. i.e., 0% by weight), “substantially free of TEA” means that TEA is present in amounts not exceeding 1% by weight, and “TEA-free” means that TEA is present in amounts not exceeding 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified in the application, such as, for example, silicone oils (“free of volatile silicone oils,” “substantially free of volatile silicone oils,” and “free of volatile silicone oils” have meanings consistent with the discussion in this paragraph), even if not specifically discussed for each identified ingredient. The discussed examples of the use of this language are intended to be exemplary and not limiting.

[0030] The compositions and methods of the present invention may "comprise," "consist of," or "consist essentially of" the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For the purposes of the compositions and methods of the present invention where the invention "consists essentially of" the identified ingredients and / or process steps, the "fundamental and novel property" of such compositions and / or methods is "to have no animal-derived ingredients and / or beeswax."

[0031] Natural oil

[0032] In accordance with the present invention, lipstick compositions comprising at least one natural oil are provided. For purposes of the present application, it is to be understood that this definition of the term "oil" is broader than typical definitions of the term "oil" and includes substances that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure but have melting points, as defined herein, below 40°C. This is done in part to allow for the calculation of the weights and ratios disclosed herein and / or to allow for the inclusion of higher viscosity materials within the definition of "oil".

[0033] Natural oil(s) are oils recovered or extracted from foods, and / or preferably oils recovered from plants or other plant life (as opposed to oils that are derived from natural sources by reactions and are not "natural oil(s)" as used herein). For example, vegetable oils include glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, where these chains may be saturated or unsaturated and straight or branched.

[0034] Non-limiting examples of suitable natural oil(s) include olive oil, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, soybean oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, etc., including oils from the seeds of the above-mentioned species, and including mixtures thereof. Castor oil (seeds) is particularly preferred.

[0035] Preferably, the at least one natural oil is / are present in an amount of about 20% to 60% by weight, preferably about 25% to about 55% by weight, preferably about 30% to about 50%, and preferably about 32% to about 38% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, including, for example, 20% to 55%, 30% to 40%, etc.

[0036] Fatty alcohol wax

[0037] According to the present invention, lipstick compositions comprising at least one fatty alcohol wax are provided. By "wax" is meant any fatty substance which has at least one melting point (at least one peak melting temperature determined by DCA (differential scanning calorimetry)) of at least 40°C, and preferably at least 50°C.

[0038] Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax contains from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 28 carbon atoms, and most preferably from about 14 to about 24 carbon atoms, including, but not limited to, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, 12 to 16 carbon atoms, 16 to 22 carbon atoms, etc. The fatty alcohol wax may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

[0039] Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Other examples of suitable fatty alcohol waxes include waxes including natural components (such as those derived from one or more natural oils) and fatty alcohol components such as, for example, hydrogenated olive stearyl ester, commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the trademark Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, and hydrogenated olive myristyl ester, commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the trademark Phytowax Olive 14 L 48.

[0040] Preferably, the at least one fatty alcohol wax is / are present in an amount of about 1% to 15% by weight, preferably about 1% to about 12% by weight, preferably about 2% to about 10%, and preferably about 2% to about 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, including for example 1% to 7%, 2% to 6%, etc.

[0041] According to preferred embodiments, the composition contains more natural oil(s) than fatty alcohol wax(es). Therefore, the weight ratio of natural oil(s) to fatty alcohol wax(es) is preferably greater than 1. Preferably, the weight ratio of natural oil(s) to fatty alcohol wax(es) is at least 2:1, preferably at least 5:1, preferably at least 6:1 and most preferably at least 7:1, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, ranges of 2:1 to 30:1, 10:1 to 25:1, 2:1 to 8:1, etc.

[0042] Charge particles

[0043] According to the present invention, lipstick compositions comprising particles of at least one filler are provided. The filler particles may be spherical, i.e., they may comprise at least one generally rounded portion, preferably defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, and the like), or lamellar. Preferably, the filler particles are of natural origin (based on natural substances).

[0044] Suitable examples of natural fillers include: cellulosic fillers such as, for example, spherical cellulose microparticles, such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo; and starch fillers such as, for example, crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn, wheat or rice starches such as Zea may (corn) starch, cellulose, Oryza saliva (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, sodium carboxymethyl starch.

[0045] Another type of natural filler suitable for use in the lipstick compositions of the present invention is natural mineral filler particles. Any natural mineral filler particle is suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the mineral filler particles are mica or talc, preferably mica, which has not been surface treated, such as, for example, mica sold under the trade name MEARLMICA DD from BASF COLORS AND EFFECTS.

[0046] Preferably, the filler particles are present in an amount of about 0.25% to 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5% to about 7% by weight, preferably about 0.5% to about 5%, and preferably 1% to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, including for example 1.5% to 3%, 1.25% to 3.3%, etc.

[0047] According to preferred embodiments, the composition contains more fatty alcohol wax(es) than filler particles. Therefore, the weight ratio between the fatty alcohol wax(es) and the filler particles is preferably greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the fatty alcohol wax(es) to the filler particles is at least 1:1, preferably at least 1.2:1, preferably at least 1.5:1 and preferably at least 2:1, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, the ranges of 1:1 to 1.5:1, 1:1 to 2:1, 1:1 to 1.75, etc.

[0048] According to preferred embodiments, the composition contains more natural oil(s) than filler particles. Preferably, the weight ratio of natural oil(s) to filler particles is greater than 1. Preferably, the weight ratio of natural oil(s) to filler particles is at least 2:1, preferably at least 5:1, preferably at least 6:1 and most preferably at least 10:1, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, ranges of 2:1 to 30:1, 10:1 to 25:1, 2:1 to 8:1, etc.

[0049] Coloring agents (dye)

[0050] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, lipstick compositions further comprising at least one coloring agent are provided.

[0051] According to this embodiment, the at least one coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, tints, such as fat-soluble tints, pearlescent pigments, and pearlescent agents.

[0052] Representative fat-soluble dyes that may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, B-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow.

[0053] The pearlescent pigments that can be used according to the present invention may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0054] The pigments, usable according to the present invention, can be chosen from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, mica optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.

[0055] Optionally, the coloring agent(s) is (are) present in an amount of about 1% to 30% by weight, preferably about 3% to about 25% by weight, preferably about 5% to about 20%, and preferably about 8% to about 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, including, for example, 6% to 16%, 2.5% to 18%, 10% to 20%, etc.

[0056] If sufficient coloring agent(s) is / are present to impart color to the lips after application of the lipstick composition of the present invention to the lips, then the composition is preferably used at least as a cosmetic composition for affecting the appearance of the color of the lips. If the coloring agent(s) is / are insufficient to impart color to the lips after application of the lipstick composition of the present invention to the lips, then the composition is preferably used at least as a cosmetic composition for properties other than affecting the appearance of the lips, such as moisturizing, shining, or sunscreening the lips (e.g., as a non-coloring moisturizing lipstick, a non-coloring top coat, a non-coloring lip gloss, a non-coloring sunscreen composition, etc.

[0057] Oily phase

[0058] According to embodiments of the present invention, lipstick compositions comprising at least one fatty substance in addition to the at least one natural oil and the at least one fatty alcohol wax are provided. Suitable fatty substances include oil(s) and / or wax(es), the terms "oil" and "wax" both being defined above.

[0059] Suitable additional oils in addition to natural oils include volatile and / or non-volatile oils. These oils may be any acceptable oil including, but not limited to, silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon oils.

[0060] Preferably, however, the oily phase of the lipstick composition contains less than 10% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 5% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 2.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), or is preferably "substantially free", "free from" or "free from" silicone oil(s) as defined above.

[0061] Preferably, however, the oily phase of the lipstick composition contains less than 10% by weight of volatile oil(s), preferably less than 5% by weight of volatile oil(s), preferably less than 2.5% by weight of volatile oil(s), or preferably is "substantially free", "devoid" or "free" of volatile oil(s) as defined above.

[0062] If present, suitable additional oils in addition to the natural oil or oils include volatile and / or non-volatile oils. These oils may be any acceptable oil including, but not limited to, silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon oils.

[0063] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention preferably comprise one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a room temperature viscosity of less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, wherein such silicones are optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that can be used include KF 96A of 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu with a flash point of 94 °C.Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.

[0064] Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.

[0065] [Tables 1] Compound Flash point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4) 55 2.5 Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 63 1.7 Shin Etsu KF-96 A 94 6 Dow Corning PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) 56 1.5 Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) 87 2

[0066] Furthermore, a volatile linear silicone oil may be employed in the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in U.S. Patent No. 6,338,839 and WO 03 / 042,221. In one embodiment, the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, the decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent more volatile than the decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0067] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition preferably comprises one or more volatile non-silicone oils which may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isohexacecane, isododecane, isodecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.

[0068] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone volatile oils are given in Table 2 below.

[0069] [Tables2] Compound Flash point (°C) Isododecane 43 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 3-Ethoxypropionic acid 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isgpar L (Cn-Cu i-paraffin) 62 [isopar H (C11-C12 i-paraffin) 56

[0070] The volatility of solvents / oils can be determined using the evaporation rate as presented in U.S. Patent No. 6,338,839.

[0071] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polar oils such as, for example:

[0072] - caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the Stearineries Dubois company or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel company;

[0073] - oils or esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5 represents a residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R6 + R7 > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isonyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

[0074] - ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0075] - liquid fatty alcohols C8 to C26, for example oleyl alcohol, alcohol cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and cetearyl alcohol;

[0076] - esters having melting points above 25°C and below 40°C which function as supplemental oils, such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate; and

[0077] - their mixtures. Preferred additional oils are esters having melting points above 25°C and below 40°C, such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate. While not wishing to be bound by any theory, the inclusion of such ingredients is believed to significantly increase the hardness of the resulting compositions when combined with the other ingredients of the present invention. Liquid C8 to C26 fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol are also preferred.

[0078] Furthermore, examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes including polyolefins, particularly petrolatum (vaseline), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one silicone oil. Suitable examples of such silicone oils include, but are not limited to, non-volatile silicone fluids such as, for example, polyalkyl(aryl)siloxanes. Suitable polyalkylsiloxanes include, but are not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes, which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydiethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, and diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, as well as the siloxanes disclosed in U.S. Patent Publication No. 2004 / 0126350.Specific examples of suitable high viscosity silicone oils include, but are not limited to, Wacker's 15 M 30 PCR (500 cSt) or Belsil PDM 1000 (1000 cSt) and Dow Corning 200 (350 cSt) (values ​​in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C).

[0080] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one oil in addition to the natural oil(s) is / are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 45% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 42.5% by weight, and preferably from about 10% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within these ranges such as, for example, 15% to 40%, 20% to 45%, etc.

[0081] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one additional wax in addition to the fatty alcohol wax. Preferably, the at least one additional wax has a melting point of at least 40°C, preferably at least 50°C, and preferably at least 60°C.

[0082] However, preferably the oily phase of the lipstick composition contains less than 10% by weight of beeswax, preferably less than 5% by weight of beeswax, preferably less than 2.5% by weight of beeswax, or is preferably "substantially free", "free of" or "free" from beeswax as defined above.

[0083] Preferably, however, the oil phase of the lipstick composition contains less than 10% by weight of synthetic wax(es), preferably less than 5% by weight of synthetic wax(es), preferably less than 2.5% by weight of synthetic wax(es), or preferably is "substantially free", "devoid" or "free" of synthetic wax(es) as defined above.

[0084] Preferably, however, the oil phase of the lipstick composition contains less than 10% by weight of silicone wax(es), preferably less than 5% by weight of silicone wax(es), preferably less than 2.5% by weight of silicone wax(es), or is preferably "substantially free", "free from" or "free from" silicone wax(es) as defined above.

[0085] Suitable examples of additional waxes suitable for use in accordance with the present disclosure include those generally used in the field of cosmetics: these include those of natural origin, in particular vegetable waxes, and include waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, sunflower seed wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite. Sunflower seed wax and candelilla wax are preferred.

[0086] Examples of silicone waxes, if present, include, but are not limited to, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxy-dimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain ranging from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 30°C and whose ester chain comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, di(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, which is sold or manufactured by Heterene under the name HEST 2T-4S; alkylated silicone acrylate copolymer waxes comprising at least 40 mol% of siloxy units having the formula (R2R'SiOi / 2)x(R”SiO3 / 2)y, where x and y have a value of 0.05 to 0.95, R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, R is a monovalent hydrocarbon having from 9 to 40 carbon atoms, R' ' is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group such as those disclosed in US patent application 2007 / 0 149 703, a particular example being (C30-C45)alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Optionally, the additional wax(es) in addition to the fatty alcohol wax may be present in an amount such that the total amount of wax (fatty alcohol wax plus additional wax) ranges from about 1% to about 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from about 5% to about 25%, and for example from about 10% to about 20%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges as exemplified above relative to other ingredients, such as, for example, 7.5% to 22.5%, 5% to 17%, etc.

[0088] According to preferred embodiments, the composition contains more additional wax(es) than fatty alcohol wax(es). Preferably, the weight ratio of additional wax(es) to fatty alcohol wax(es) is greater than 1. Preferably, the weight ratio of additional wax(es) to fatty alcohol wax(es) is at least 2:1, preferably at least 3:1, preferably at least 3.5:1 and preferably at least 4:1, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, ranges of 2.5:1 to 5:1, 3:1 to 6:1, 2.25:1 to 8:1, etc.

[0089] Additional additives

[0090] The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive commonly used in the field under consideration. For example, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), antioxidants, film-forming agents, sunscreens, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, viscosity-increasing agents such as fat-soluble / fat-dispersible polymers, and mixtures thereof may be added. A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients may be found in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0 170 586. Other examples of suitable additional components may be found in the other references cited in this application. Still other examples of Such additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th edition, 2002).

[0091] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, affected by the envisaged addition.

[0092] These substances can be chosen in various ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example a consistency or a texture.

[0093] These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0% to 99% (such as 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as 0.1% to 50% (if present), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0094] It goes without saying that the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, that is to say that it must contain a physiologically acceptable non-toxic medium and must be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.

[0095] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, methods of treating, enhancing the appearance of, caring for and / or making up the lips by applying compositions of the present invention to the lips in an amount sufficient to treat, enhance the appearance of, care for and / or make up the keratinous material are provided. Preferably, "making up" the keratinous material includes applying at least one coloring agent to the lips in an amount sufficient to impart color to the lips.

[0096] According to the foregoing preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are applied topically to the lips in an amount sufficient to treat, enhance the appearance of, condition, and / or color the lips. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting them to contact such as with clothing or other objects (e.g., a glass or topcoat). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 1 minute or less, more preferably for about 45 seconds or less.

[0097] The present invention also contemplates kits and / or pre-packaged materials suitable for consumer use containing one or more compositions according to the present disclosure, alone or in combination with makeup products such as base coats, top coats, moisturizing compositions, etc. The packaging and application device of any subject matter of the invention can be chosen and manufactured by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, and adapted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be used may in particular be linked to the consistency of the composition, in particular to its viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituents present in the composition, such as the presence of volatile compounds.

[0098] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters within the general scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values ​​presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis. Examples

[0099] Example 1 Sample Composition (Colored Lipstick)

[0100] [Tables3] INGREDIENT Amount (% by weight of the total weight of the COMPOSITION) Natural Filler Particles (Cellulose or Mica) 0.5% to 5% Behenyl Alcohol 3% to 6% Additional Waxes (Candelilla and Sunflower Seed) 10% to 15% Liquid Fatty Alcohol Oil / Ester Oil 20% to 40% Natural Oils 30% to 45% Pigments 8% to 15% Others (e.g., emollients, antioxidants, fragrance) 0% to 2%

[0101] Example 2 Preparation of a sample lipstick composition

[0102] Grind the pigments in the oil phase, until the desired dispersion is obtained.

[0103] Heat the pigment grinding to 90°C, mix with a propeller mixer.

[0104] Add the behenyl alcohol waxes, candelilla wax and sunflower wax until melted. Continue mixing for 15 minutes.

[0105] Add bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate after melting (optional).

[0106] Add a natural filler (cellulose or mica) and mix until you obtain a homogeneous liquid.

[0107] Pour the liquid mass (at 90°C) into a lipstick mold at room temperature, cool the mold to -18°C to produce colored lipsticks. Example 3: Comparative test

[0108] Identical compositions were prepared according to the sample composition of Example 1 and the preparation method of Example 2, except for the amount of natural filler particles added as explained below.

[0109] A control composition containing no natural filler was prepared. Three compositions containing cellulose particles at levels of 1.5%, 3% and 5% were prepared (M1.5, M3 and M5). And three compositions containing mica particles at levels of 1.5%, 3% and 5% were also prepared (C1.5, C3 and C5).

[0110] The hardness of all the prepared compositions was tested using the two test procedures previously presented in the application. The results indicated that the control composition without filler and the compositions containing 5% mica or cellulose (M5 or C5) had approximately the same maximum positive force (about 280 g). In contrast, the compositions containing 1.5% or 3% natural fillers (C1.5, C3 and M3) surprisingly had a significantly higher maximum positive force (about 290 g or more), indicating that the compositions have better hardness properties. M1.5 (1.5% mica), however, exhibited lower hardness properties than the control composition.

Claims

Claims

1. Lipstick composition comprising at least one natural oil, at least one fatty alcohol wax, at least one additional wax, and particles of at least one natural filler, from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one coloring agent, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol wax has a melting point of at least 50°C, wherein the weight ratio of the additional wax(es) to the fatty alcohol wax(es) is at least 4:1, and wherein the oil phase of said composition contains less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or is free of beeswax.

2. A composition according to the preceding claim, further comprising at least one additional oil in addition to the at least one natural oil, wherein the additional oil is at least one liquid C8 to C26 fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol.

3. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of fatty alcohol wax(es) to filler particles is at least 1:1, and the weight ratio of natural oil(s) to fatty alcohol wax(es) is at least 2:

1.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is anhydrous.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is free of beeswax.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition satisfies one or more of the following: (a) the composition is free of volatile oil; (b) the composition is free of silicone oil; (c) the composition is free of silicone wax.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the fatty alcohol wax is behenyl alcohol and the natural filler is selected from the group consisting of cellulose, mica which has not been surface treated, and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the natural filler is selected from the group consisting of cellulose, mica which has not been surface-treated, and their

9. mixtures, and the natural filler is present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A method of caring for or making up the lips comprising applying the lipstick composition of any one of the preceding claims to the lips.