Composition of retardant and necessary dyeing kit including
A dye composition with pyrazolone and AMPS polymer delayers, combined with an aminophenol derivative, addresses unwanted staining and enhances the copper reflection effect in hair dyeing by controlling dye reactions and maintaining a lower pH.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021011231
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-09-29
- Filing Date
- 2021-10-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-10-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dyeing processes often result in unwanted staining of non-target areas and lack a clean, shiny, and sparkling color effect, particularly the copper reflection effect.
A dye composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer as delayers, combined with an aminophenol derivative, is used to slow down dye reactions and enhance color stability, reducing unwanted staining and achieving a copper reflection effect.
The composition effectively reduces staining on non-target areas and provides a shiny, sparkling copper reflection on keratin fibers by slowing down dye reactions and maintaining a lower pH during the dyeing process.
Smart Images

Figure 00000037_0000 
Figure 00000037_0001 
Figure 00000038_0000
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Retardant composition and dyeing kit comprising it Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a retarder composition and a dyeing kit comprising the same, for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, for example hair. CONTEXT
[0002] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to dye it in order, for example, to hide their gray hair.
[0003] "Permanent" dyeing processes, also called oxidative dyeing, which use dye compositions containing oxidative dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds, have been developed to dye human keratinous fibers in a durable manner. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0004] For better use, one or more oxidative dyes and one or more oxidants may be placed respectively in a multi-compartment package, and are mixed together immediately before use.
[0005] Consumers want to use dyes to dye only the target area. However, in many cases, for example when dyeing hair, other areas may be undesirably dyed (stained), such as hands, face, ears, etc. Consumers need to be more careful to avoid unwanted areas and are looking for products that help them remedy unwanted dyeing.
[0006] In addition to a clean dye, a good color effect is also always sought, for example a dyeing effect that makes the keratinous fibers smooth, shiny and sparkling, and in particular a coppery reflection effect. Summary of the invention
[0007] In one aspect, the present invention relates to a retarder composition for slowing reactions of dye or its intermediates during dyeing, comprising at least two retarders of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. For example, the retarder composition is substantially consisting, and preferably consisting, of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer as retarders.
[0008] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a dyeing kit, comprising: a dye composition, comprising the above retarder composition; and a developer composition comprising at least one oxidant. By means of the retarder composition, the dyeing kit can provide low color staining and clean rinsing performance, so as to overcome the above disadvantages, especially by reducing or even substantially avoiding staining by dye on a non-targeted position.
[0009] In one embodiment, in the dye composition, the ratio of pyrazolone derivative to AMPS polymer by weight is between about 1:5 and about 5:1 and preferably between about 1:2 and about 2:1, in order to further improve the stain reduction effect of the dye, and even to exhibit a synergistic effect.
[0010] In yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a dyeing kit, comprising: a dye composition, which further comprises at least one oxidative dye comprising an aminophenol derivative in addition to the above retarder composition; and a developer composition comprising at least one oxidant. By means of the aminophenol derivative, in combination with the above retarder composition, the dyeing kit can achieve a better dyeing effect, i.e., a copper effect.
[0011] In one embodiment, the aminophenol derivative has a pKa of between about 9.0 and about 11.0, preferably between about 9.2 and about 10.2, or between about 9.5 and about 10.0, at a temperature of about 25°C.
[0012] In another embodiment, the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol derivative, and preferably a 4-aminophenol which is further substituted, preferably 3-substituted, on the phenyl ring. Preferably, any 4-aminophenol(s) included in the dye composition is (are) further substituted, especially 3-substituted, on the phenyl group; and / or preferably, the amino group of the aminophenol derivative is unsubstituted.
[0013] For example, the aminophenol derivative simultaneously satisfies the above pKa range and the above structure.
[0014] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for improving the color effect obtained after dyeing keratinous fibers, especially hair, by using the above dyeing kit. Specifically, the method comprises i) mixing the dye composition and the developer composition, included in the above dyeing kit, and ii) applying the mixture to the keratinous fibers. When the dye composition comprises an aminophenol derivative of the present invention, a relatively lower pH is obtained after mixing the dye composition and the developer composition. This relatively lower pH value contributes to a coppery reflection effect obtained after dyeing keratinous fibers. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0015] [Fig. 1] [Fig. 1] is a photograph of the lock of hair during dyeing with the sample according to the present invention;
[0016] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] is a photograph of the lock of hair during dyeing with the sample not in accordance with the present invention;
[0017] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] is a photograph of the lock of hair obtained after dyeing using the sample according to the present invention; and
[0018] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] is a photograph of the lock of hair obtained after dyeing using the sample not in accordance with the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0019] The articles "a" and "an," as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically indicated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more."
[0020] Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with "comprising" or the like is to be understood as encompassing a preferable embodiment defined with "consisting substantially of" and a preferable embodiment defined with "consisting of".
[0021] Throughout the description, including the claims, the "keratinous fiber" according to the present invention is hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or body hair. Preferably, the keratinous fiber according to the present invention is hair.
[0022] In the application, unless expressly stated otherwise, the contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
[0023] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "retarder" means an agent capable of slowing down reactions of the dye or its intermediates, such as reactions with the developer, for example an oxidation reaction between them.
[0024] According to the present invention, "stain reduction" refers to the reduction of stains occurring in unwanted areas, such as hands, face, scalp, ears, rinse water, towels, containers, tools, the floor, and the like. Preferably, the effect lasts at least 5 minutes after dyeing the hair, more preferably 10 minutes, even more preferably 15 minutes, or 20 minutes.
[0025] The term "copper sheen" means an excellent and favorable color effect after dyeing keratinous fiber, especially hair, and it means a color similar to copper and is bright and shiny. Dye composition
[0026] The dyeing kit according to the present invention may comprise a dye composition. The dye composition may comprise a retarder composition comprising at least two retarders, wherein the retarder composition may comprise a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. Retardant composition
[0027] The retarder composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising at least two retarders, and simultaneously comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. In the context, the term "retarder composition" means a composition comprising at least two retarders and may further comprise other components which do not serve as retarders in the dye composition; preferably, the term "retarder composition" means a composition each component of which serves as retarders in the dye composition.
[0028] For the present invention, the retarder composition may consist substantially of, and preferably consists of, a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. In this case, the term "retarder composition" may also be referred to as "retarder combination".
[0029] For example, in the retarder composition according to the present invention, the ratio of pyrazolone derivative to AMPS polymer by weight is between about 1:5 and about 5:1 and preferably between about 1:2 and about 2:1. This specific ratio can contribute to improving the stain reduction effect of dyes, and even exhibit a synergistic effect for the retarder composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer.
[0030] This "synergistic effect" means that the retarder composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer provides a better color spot reduction effect and better clean rinsing performance than a simple addition of the effects obtained from a single pyrazolone derivative and a single AMPS polymer.
[0031] For example, during dyeing, the "retardant composition" helps to avoid or at least reduce staining that occurs in unwanted areas, such as hands, face, scalp, ears, rinse water, towels, containers, tools, floor and the like, and preferably provides a synergistic effect of reduction or avoidance. Preferably, the effect lasts at least 5 minutes after dyeing the hair, more particularly 10 minutes, even more preferably 15 minutes, or 20 minutes.
[0032] Furthermore, the retarder composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer shows excellent stability, i.e., minimal loss of the amount of the component(s) concerned over time. Pyrazolone derivative
[0033] Pyrazolone derivatives which may be particularly mentioned include a pyrazolone substituted with at least one aryl and / or at least one alkyl, provided that the number of aryl and alkyl substituents is not greater than 3; and diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones.
[0034] For pyrazolone substituted with at least one aryl and / or at least one alkyl, said alkyl is preferably a C1-C4 alkyl, and the aryl is preferably an unsubstituted phenyl or a phenyl substituted with at least one alkyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl. For example, the pyrazolone derivative may be a pyrazolone substituted with at least one phenyl and at least one C1-C4 alkyl, for example, a pyrazolone substituted with 1 phenyl and 1 methyl, a pyrazolone substituted with 1 phenyl and 1 ethyl, and the like. Among others, phenylmethylpyrazolone, for example 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone, may be mentioned.
[0035] For diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones, preferred examples which may be particularly mentioned are 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.
[0036] The pyrazolone derivative may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001% to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.005% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.1% to about 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition. AMPS Polymer
[0037] The colorant composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one AMPS polymer.
[0038] Useful AMPS polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the monomer acrylamido-2-meth- ethylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally in a form partially or completely neutralized by ammonia or by an inorganic base other than ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Representative AMPS polymers are those commercially available from THE LUBRIZOL CORPORATION under the name AMPS®.
[0039] The AMPS polymers are preferably completely neutralized or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
[0040] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
[0041] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divi-nylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, trial-lylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0042] According to one embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking is generally between approximately 0.01 mol% and approximately 10 mol% and more particularly between approximately 0.2 mol% and approximately 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
[0043] The AMPS polymer according to the invention is preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, it is:
[0044] - either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;
[0045] - either copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more ethyl monomers hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated copolymers and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
[0046] For the purposes of the AMPS polymer according to the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means any hydrocarbon chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.
[0047] By "water soluble or water dispersible" is meant polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, that is to say a solution which has a maximum value of light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably at least 70%.
[0048] The “homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized.
[0049] The AMPS homopolymers according to the invention are preferably homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium poly-acry Idimethy Itauramide).
[0050] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
[0051] Water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or non-ionic.
[0052] Among the water-soluble ionic comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and their salts:
[0053] - (meth)acrylic acid,
[0054] - styrenesulfonic acid,
[0055] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
[0056] - vinylphosphonic acid,
[0057] - maleic acid,
[0058] - itaconic acid,
[0059] - crotonic acid,
[0060] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below: H2C=CRi i (A) CO Xi
[0061] in which:
[0062] - Ri is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
[0063] - Xi is chosen from:
[0064] - alkyl ethers of type OR2 in which R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).
[0065] Among the non-ionic comonomers soluble in water, we can in particular include :
[0066] - (meth)acrylamide,
[0067] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N vinylacetamide,
[0068] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N vinylformamide,
[0069] - maleic anhydride,
[0070] - vinylamine,
[0071] - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 atoms of carbon, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0072] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
[0073] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below: h2c=cr15 I (B) CO I
[0074] in which:
[0075] - Rb is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
[0076] - X2 is chosen from:
[0077] - alkyl ethers of type ORi6 in which R[6 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl group (-OH); ether.
[0078] Mention may be made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.
[0079] Among the hydrophobic comonomers devoid of fatty chain, we can notably cite:
[0080] - styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, ±-methylstyrene and vi- nyltoluene,
[0081] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;
[0082] - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a hy radical carbonaceous, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 6 carbons;
[0083] - acrylonitrile,
[0084] - caprolactone,
[0085] - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,
[0086] - silicone derivatives, which lead after polymerization to polymers of silicone, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides,
[0087] - the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below: H (AT I (C) CO IX 3
[0088] in which:
[0089] - R23 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
[0090] - X3 is chosen from:
[0091] - alkyl ethers of type -OR24 in which R24 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0092] Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
[0093] The AMPS polymer, preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible, of the invention preferably has a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol and more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0094] Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers according to the invention that may be mentioned include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer used in the commercial product Simulgel® 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyl-dimethyltaurate); or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. For example, the crosslinked AMPS copolymer is Aristoflex® HMS, a crosslinked copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate; the non-crosslinked AMPS copolymer is Aristoflex® SNC, a copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate.
[0095] Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention which may be mentioned include:
[0096] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers of sodium, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product Sepigel® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3 CM Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;
[0097] - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® AVC by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
[0098] - copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, for example the copolymer AMPS / sodium acrylate such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel® EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80);
[0099] - copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example the copolymer AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel® NS by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hy-droxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Po-lysorbate-60);
[0100] - crosslinked copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / methacrylate steareth-25.
[0101] Preferred polymers are more particularly sodium acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonate homopolymers, such as the homopolymer used in the commercial product Sepigel® 800, or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate; and AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS, or the crosslinked polymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate.
[0102] The AMPS polymer may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition. Oxidative dyeing
[0103] The dye composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oxidative dye. Preferably, the oxidative dye may comprise an aminophenol derivative.
[0104] In one aspect, the aminophenol derivative must satisfy a certain pKa range. By virtue of this certain pKa range, in combination with the above retarder composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer, the colorant composition can provide a better color effect, especially a coppery sheen. Specifically, the aminophenol derivative according to the present invention has a pKa ranging from about 9.0 to about 11.0, preferably from about 9.2 to about 10.2, or from about 9.5 to about 10.0, at a temperature of about 25°C.
[0105] In another aspect, the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol derivative, and preferably a 4-aminophenol that is further substituted on the phenyl in addition to the amino group. Specifically, the aminophenol derivative is further substituted on the phenyl ring with a group R selected from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl and aryl groups, preferably with a group R selected from alkyl and aryl groups, or preferably by a group R selected from C1-C4 alkyl and phenyl groups. Preferably, the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol 3-substituted on the phenyl ring by said group R.
[0106] Further, the R group may be optionally substituted with an R1 group selected from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, carboxyl, hydroxyl, cyano, acyl, sulfoxide, amino and amide groups, preferably with a C1-C4 alkyl or carboxyl group.
[0107] Preferably, the amino group of the aminophenol derivative is unsubstituted, and / or preferably, the dye composition does not comprise 4-aminophenol which is not further substituted, especially 3-substituted, on the phenyl group.
[0108] In one embodiment, the aminophenol derivative according to the present invention must simultaneously satisfy the above pKa value and the above specific structure.
[0109] Among the aminophenol derivatives, examples that may be mentioned include 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 3-phenyl-4-aminophenol, 3-carboxylmethyl-4-aminophenol, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] The aminophenol derivative may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001% to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.1% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the dye composition.
[0111] Conventionally, one or more oxidative dyes are used in the dye composition. However, some traditional oxidative dyes, for example, a 4-aminophenol, which is not substituted on the phenyl group, cannot provide a better or favorable color effect after dyeing. In order to improve the color effect after dyeing, the inventor chooses to use the aminophenol derivative which satisfies the above pKa value and / or the above specific structure as one of the oxidative dyes, and surprisingly finds that an excellent favorable color effect can be obtained, for example, a coppery sheen effect. Other oxidation base
[0112] Furthermore, the oxidizing dye according to the present invention may comprise one or more other oxidation bases.
[0113] Said other oxidation bases may be chosen in particular from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, pyridine derivatives, and their addition salts, and their mixtures.
[0114] Among the para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-para-phenylenediamine (CI 76042), 3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-[3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2—hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine,as well as their addition salts with an acid.
[0115] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3—acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, as well as their addition salts with an acid, are particularly preferred.
[0116] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, there may be included N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and their addition salts.
[0117] Among the meta-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include unsubstituted meta-aminophenol or a meta-aminophenol substituted with 1 or 2 C1-C4 alkyls on the phenyl group or the amino group, said C1-C4 alkyl is optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxyl, hydroxyl, cyano, acyl, sulfoxide, amino and amide. Preferably, the meta-aminophenol is selected from the group consisting of 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, and a mixture thereof.
[0118] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and their addition salts.
[0119] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.Examples that may be included are pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(acetylamino)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol and their addition salts.
[0120] Said other oxidation bases may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.005% to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition. Reducer
[0121] The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise at least one reducer.
[0122] According to the present invention, useful reducing agents may include, sodium thiosulfate, sodium metabisulfite, thiourea sulfite ammonium, thioglycolic acid (TGA), thiolactic acid, ammonium thiolactate, mono-carbothioic acid diglycidyl ester, ammonium carbothioic acetate, thioglycerol, dithio- glycolic, strontium acetate carbothioic diammonium, thioglycolate, isooctyl carbothioic, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione peptide, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopro-pionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and its salts; ammonium thioglycolate, glycerol monothioglycolate, or a mixture thereof.
[0123] Examples of preferred reducing agents that may be mentioned include thioglycolic acid, dithioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, their salts, sodium metabisulfite, or a mixture thereof. Antioxidant
[0124] The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise at least one antioxidant.
[0125] The antioxidants used may include natural exogenous phytochemical antioxidants such as phenols and carotenoids. Vitamins and derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid or their derivatives, for example, sodium ascorbate / erythorbate and the fat-soluble ester of tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate / erythorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate and others. Sesamum indicum or lignan may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. The lignan in sesame seed significantly enhances the activity of vitamin E.
[0126] Other antioxidants that may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention include tocopherols (e.g., d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienol phenol (e.g., da-tocotrienol, dy-tocotrienol, d-6-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (a-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or blended. The tocotrienol-rich vitamin E preparation may be obtained by fractionating the vitamin E preparation to remove a portion of the biophenol and recovering the more concentrated tocotrienol product. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, grain oil or palm oil by high-performance liquid chromatography or from barley, distillers grains or oats by alcoholic extraction and / or molecular distillation.The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes a tocotrienol-rich fraction obtained from these natural products as well as a pure compound. The increase in glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage. These vitamins can also be vitamin cofactors: coenzyme Q10.
[0127] In addition, carotenoids, particularly of the lutein type, are also anti Useful oxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Lutein compounds protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E, and other carotenoids.
[0128] The flavonoid may be a flavanone (a derivative of 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavanones include: scutellarin, eriodictin, hesperetin, hesperidin, sylvestre, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocin, tangrine (poncirin), sakuranetin, sakura glycosides and 7-O-methyl er-gophenol (sterubin).
[0129] The flavonoid may be a dihydroflavonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin, and flavonol.
[0130] The flavonoid may be a flavonoid (a derivative of 2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonoids include: apigenin, a luteolin, mandarin, chrysin, baicalein, wild baicalein, wogonin, synthetic flavonoids: Diosmin and flavonoid ester.
[0131] The flavonoid may be a flavonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, rhodoxanthin, quercetin, galangin, cotton dermatan, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, blackberry pigment, myricetin, naringin (Natsudaidain), Muskyl flavonol (Pachypodol), quercetin, methyl rhamnosine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, iso-quercetin, kaempferol, myricetin, deer glycosides, robinin, rutin, spirea, xan-thorhamnin, amurensin, icariin, and tracuridine.
[0132] The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-benzopyran-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epi-catechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol.
[0133] The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: Apiforol and Luteoforol.
[0134] The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (a derivative of 3-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, garbanin A, formononetin, and equol metabolites of daidzein.
[0135] The antioxidant may be anthocyanin (a derivative of the cation 2-phenylbenzopyranoside). Anthocyanins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, del-phinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peony pigment (Peonidin), morning glory pigment (Petunidin), rose pigment (Rosinidin), and xanthone.
[0136] The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-l-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydro- chalcone phloridine cisplatin, Aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohes-peridin dihydrochalcone and Nothofagin. The mode of action of the present invention is not limited, but dihydrochalcone can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing active radicals such as active oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.
[0137] The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins comprise a class of flavonoid compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Collagenase inhibition helps prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by reduced skin collagen, increase skin elasticity, etc. Anthocyanins may be obtained from any part of a variety of plant sources, such as solids, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark, or seeds. Those skilled in the art will understand that certain portions of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and thus these fractions are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins.In some cases, the antioxidant may include one or more betaines. Betaine, similar to anthocyanins, is available from natural sources and is an antioxidant.
[0138] The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (a cinnamic acid derivative). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferic acid, sinapic acid, coumarin, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, baicein, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the present invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.
[0139] The antioxidant may be a chalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: zirconia, okanine, safflower, mareine, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokvaine A, flavokavaine B, flavokavin C and synthetic safalcone.
[0140] The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bis-demethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcumin. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcumin may be derived from the rhizome of turmeric. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more potent and stable antioxidant than curcumin.
[0141] The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannins, Terflavin B, Glu-cogallin, D-gallic acid and Quercitannic acid.
[0142] The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: resveratrol, red sandalwood, and paclitaxel. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxyindole, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxyindole (ketotriol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxyindole (oxidized resveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxyindole and its alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives.
[0143] The antioxidant may be a coumarin (a 2H-benzopyran-2-one derivative). Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, Aesculetin, Hemiarin, Auraptene, and dicoumarin.
[0144] The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone.
[0145] The antioxidant may be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, α-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, cichoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, pyridone (Barbigerone), chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetyl-serotonin, nordihydroguaiac acid, oleotanthal, oleuropein, Paradol, paclitaxel, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyrithione, rutin, di-glucoside of Flax lignan, sesamin, sesame phenol, silybin, silymarin, theaflavins, theaflavin digallate, Thmoquinone, Trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.
[0146] The total weight of the reducer and antioxidant may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.001 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the colorant composition. Surfactant
[0147] The dye composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more surfactants, in particular an anionic surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, and in particular a non-ionic surfactant and / or an amphoteric surfactant. Non-ionic surfactant
[0148] The dye composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0149] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the compositions are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.
[0150] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following nonionic surfactants:
[0151] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24) alkylphenols;
[0152] - C8-C40 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, comprising one or two fatty chains;
[0153] - amides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy- C8-C30 fatty acids alkylenated;
[0154] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of polyethyl- lene glycols;
[0155] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and glycerol or sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, for example PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil;
[0156] - sucrose fatty acid esters;
[0157] - alkyl(in C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alkenyl(in C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, faculta tively oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, C8-C30 alkyl (poly)glucoside esters; Examples that may be mentioned include caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof;
[0158] - saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated vegetable oils;
[0159] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures;
[0160] - derivatives of N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine;
[0161] - aldobionamides;
[0162] - amine oxides;
[0163] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones;
[0164] - and mixtures thereof.
[0165] The terms “oxyalkylenated”, “oxyethylenated”, “oxypropylenated” and “glycerolated” cover, respectively, mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated, oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated and glycerolated compounds, unless specifically mentioned.
[0166] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylenated or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylenated units.
[0167] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably varies from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol varies in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
[0168] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units.
[0169] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C4o alcohols are preferably used, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
[0170] Examples of compounds of this type include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 1.5 ... INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
[0171] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use C8 / Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, C10 / C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
[0172] The nonionic surfactant may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the dye composition. Amphoteric surfactant
[0173] The dye composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.
[0174] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from betaine-type surfactants. The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant(s) used in the dye composition according to the present invention may in particular be (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20alkyl)amido(C2-C8alkyl)-betaines or (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.
[0175] Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, (C8-C20alkyl)betaines and (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C8-C20alkyl)betaines, as well as their mixtures, are preferably used.
[0176] More particularly, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are chosen from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and a mixture thereof.
[0177] The amphoteric surfactant may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 2% to about 15% by weight, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the dye composition. Anionic surfactant
[0178] The dye composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
[0179] By "anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups:
[0180] -COOH, -COO-, -SO3H, -SO3-, -OSO3H, -OSO3-, -PO2H2, PO2H-, -PO?, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH, =PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or a ammonium.
[0181] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the dye composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo-succinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of polycarboxylic acid and of alkyl monoester of polyglycosides, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside acids uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts, as well as the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds;the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.;
[0182] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0183] The salts of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from alkyl (C6-C24) polyglycoside-citrates, alkyl (C6-C24) polyglycoside-tartrates and alkyl (C6-C24) polyglycoside-sulfo-succinates.
[0184] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
[0185] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0186] Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
[0187] The preferred anionic surfactants are chosen from C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C30 alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, all these compounds optionally comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and more preferably (Ci2-C20)alkyl sulfates and (Ci2-C20)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and in particular from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, it is preferred to use a polyoxyethylenated sodium lauryl ether sulfate, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
[0188] Preferably, the anionic surfactants of the invention are sulfates, more particularly chosen from (C6-C30)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C30)alkyl ether sulfates, (C6-C30)alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, their salts such as alkali salts, such as sodium, and their mixtures.
[0189] More preferably, the anionic surfactants of the invention are chosen from (C6-C30)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C30)alkyl ether sulfates, in particular (C6-C30)alkyl ether sulfates such as lauryl ether sulfate, their salts, such as sodium laureth sulfate.
[0190] The anionic surfactant may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the dye composition. Alkaline agent
[0191] The dye composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more alkaline agents.
[0192] The alkaline agent(s) may in particular be chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, in particular less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6; from the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid: it will be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of strongest basicity.
[0193] Preferably, the colorant composition according to the present invention may be free or substantially free of aqueous ammonia.
[0194] More preferably, the amines are chosen from alkanolamines, comprising in particular a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals; from oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, and from amino acids and compounds corresponding to the following formula: Rx Rz ZNW-N Ry xRt
[0195] in which W is a C1-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical.
[0196] According to one embodiment of the invention, the dye composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine and / or at least one basic amino acid, more advantageously at least one alkanolamine, such as ethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.
[0197] Advantageously, the content of alkaline agent(s) is between approximately 0.01% and approximately 30% by weight, preferably between approximately 0.1% and approximately 20% by weight, or between approximately 1% and approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition. It should be noted that this content is expressed as NH3 when the alkaline agent is aqueous ammonia.
[0198] The pH of the composition of the invention is preferably about 6-11, preferably about 7-10, and more preferably about 8-9.
[0199] The pH can be corrected by adding acidifying agents, such as hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, as well as carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, lactic acid or citric acid, or sulfonic acids. Alkaline agents such as those mentioned above can also be used. Solvent
[0200] The dye composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more solvent(s), for example water and / or an organic solvent. Water
[0201] The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise water. In one aspect, the water content in the colorant composition according to the invention is less than or equal to about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
[0202] According to another aspect, the water content in the dye composition according to the invention is preferably between about 10% and about 85% by weight, more preferably between about 25% and about 80% by weight, or between about 40% and about 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition. Organic solvent
[0203] The dye composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents (solubility greater than or equal to 5% in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure).
[0204] Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be included are linear or branched, preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as alcohol phenylethyl; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for example ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or their ethers, for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether; as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C1-C4 alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or in a mixture.
[0205] Water-soluble organic solvents, when present, generally represent between about 1% and about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition according to the invention, and preferably between about 3% and about 15% by weight, or between about 4% and about 10% by weight. Fat phase
[0206] The colorant composition according to the invention may further comprise a cosmetically acceptable fatty substance.
[0207] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty substance is free of carboxylic acid groups.
[0208] By "fatty substance" is meant organic compounds insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferably 0.1%). In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0209] The fatty substances are in particular chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular non-silicone mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones.
[0210] It is recalled that, within the meaning of the invention, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is (are) optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0211] With regard to the lower alkanes, these alkanes comprise from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. For example, the alkanes may be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
[0212] As non-silicone oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of:
[0213] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
[0214] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
[0215] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms and of origin mineral or synthetic, such as liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®;
[0216] - fluoro oils, for example perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.
[0217] The fatty alcohols which can be used in the composition of the invention are not oxyalkylenated. They are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
[0218] Useful esters are esters of C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbons in the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.
[0219] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; pelargonate octyl; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0220] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, as well as esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxyalcohols.
[0221] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrape-largonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; Trioctyldodecyl citrate; Trioleyl citrate; Propylene glycol dioctanoate; Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diisononanoate; Ethylene glycol distearate; Diethylene glycol distearate and Polyethylene glycol distearate.
[0222] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0223] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0224] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C6-C30 and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0225] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono, di, tri, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.
[0226] These esters can be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and ara-chidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
[0227] Monoesters and diesters are more preferably used, in particular mono- or dioleates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
[0228] The fatty substance(s) may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 45% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, or from about 1% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition. Adjuvants
[0229] The colorant composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants.
[0230] For example, the composition may include one or more additives well known in the art, such as hair loss prevention agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifiers, opacifiers, hydroxy acids, pearlescent agents, adhesive dispersing agents, conditioning agents, texture adjusting agents, perfumes and preservatives.
[0231] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition(s).
[0232] The aforementioned adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and approximately 25% by weight, or between 0 and approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition. Viscosity
[0233] The colorant composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel emulsion, a thickened liquid or a liquid cream. The colorant composition has a low shear viscosity greater than about 1000 mPa s and a high shear viscosity less than about 500 mPa s.
[0234] Low shear viscosity and high shear viscosity, as defined above, are measured using a TA Instruments AR2000 rheometer having the following geometry: 50 mm2 stainless steel cone, 50 mm stainless steel plate, standard size DIN concentric or tapered cylinders. Using the TA Instruments AR2000 Rheometer Data Analysis program, the collected data is then plotted and a point at the start of the test is recorded as the low shear viscosity. The data should be analyzed at least twice to ensure correlation of the recorded data. The low shear viscosity is measured at 0.01 s 1 and the high shear viscosity is measured at 500 s 1.
[0235] This specific viscosity can ensure that the obtained colorant composition will not be too thin and fall off during use, and contributes to the stability of the colorant composition. Developer composition
[0236] The dyeing kit according to the present invention may comprise a developer composition.
[0237] Preferably, the developer composition is placed separately from the dye composition, i.e. they are placed in two separate chambers. Oxidant
[0238] The developer composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oxidant.
[0239] The developer composition of the present invention may comprise one or more oxidants for general use as one of the active components of the composition. The term "oxidant" refers to an oxidant other than atmospheric oxygen. More particularly, the oxidant is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxy salts, such as persulfates or perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metals; or a polymer-like complex capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide.
[0240] Advantageously, the oxidant is hydrogen peroxide.
[0241] The oxidant may advantageously be present in amounts ranging from about 0.1 wt% to about 50 wt%, preferably from about 1 wt% to about 20 wt%, or from about 5 wt% to about 15 wt%, based on the weight of the developer composition. Solvent
[0242] The developer composition of the present invention may comprise one or more solvent(s), for example water and / or an organic solvent. The useful solvent may be selected from those mentioned for the "solvent" of the dye composition above.
[0243] The dye composition and the developer composition of the dyeing kit may independently use the same or different solvents, respectively.
[0244] When water is used as a solvent in the developer composition according to the invention, it is more preferably used in a range of from about 40% to about 95% by weight, more preferably from about 50% to about 90% by weight, or from about 60% to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the developer composition.
[0245] Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be mentioned include polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol.
[0246] Water-soluble organic solvents, when present, generally represent between about 0.1% and about 20% by weight, and preferably between about 0.5% and about 15% by weight, or between about 1% and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the developer composition. Surfactant
[0247] The developer composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants, for example, in particular an anionic surfactant and / or a non-ionic surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant. The useful surfactant may be chosen from those mentioned for the "surfactant" of the dye composition above.
[0248] The dye composition and the developer composition of the dyeing kit may independently use the same or different surfactants, respectively. AMPS Polymer
[0249] The developer composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise an AMPS polymer. The useful AMPS polymer and its amount may be selected from those mentioned for the “AMPS polymer” of the dye composition above. Addition form of AMPS polymers
[0250] As indicated above, the inventor has surprisingly discovered that the AMPS polymer can be used as a retarder to slow down the reactions of the dye or its intermediates, for example, the oxidative dye useful in the dye composition.
[0251] Namely, the AMPS polymer acts mainly on the dye reaction. Accordingly, for the dyeing kit, the AMPS polymer may be added directly into the dyeing kit, for example, as a mixture with the dye composition and / or with the developer composition; or may be added in an independent chamber separate from the dye composition and the developer composition.
[0252] For use as an AMPS polymer independent of the need for dye, any component known in the field of cosmetics benefiting from the stability of the AMPS polymer can be included in conjunction with the AMPS polymer. Chelating agent
[0253] The dye composition and / or the developer composition of the dyeing kit according to the present invention may comprise at least one chelating agent.
[0254] According to the present invention, the useful chelating agent comprises aminocarboxylic acids, e.g., ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), aminotriacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, and especially the alkali metal salt thereof, e.g., N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid (glutamic diacetic acid, GLDA); hydroxycarboxylic acids, e.g., citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), and especially the alkali metal salts thereof; hydroxylaminocarboxylic acids, e.g., hydroxyethylenediamine triacetic acid (HEDTA), dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG), and especially the alkali metal salts thereof; polyphosphonic acid, and in particular its alkali metal salts;other phosphorus-containing organic acids, e.g., phytic acid, and in particular its alkali metal salt, e.g., sodium phytate, potassium phytate, a polycarboxylic acid, e.g., polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and in particular their alkali metal salt. ;
[0255] In one embodiment, the at least one water-soluble chelating agent is an alkali metal hydroxyl polycarboxylate represented by an alkane containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably containing 2 or 3 carbon atoms, substituted with 1, 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably with one (1) hydroxyl group, and further substituted with 2, 3, 4 or 5 carboxylate groups (-C00M), preferably with 2 or 3 carboxylate groups (-C00M), wherein the multiple M groups independently represent H or an alkali metal, provided that at least one of the M groups represents an alkali metal, such as Na, K or Li, preferably all of the M groups represent an alkali metal, such as Na, K or Li, preferably Na.More particularly, the at least one alkali metal hydroxyl polycarboxylate may be selected from sodium tartrates, sodium citrates, potassium tartrates, potassium citrates, and their hydrates, preferably sodium citrates, in particular trisodium citrate. Herein, sodium citrates are used to denote monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and trisodium citrate, and other alkali metal hydroxylpolycarboxylates may be understood in a similar manner.
[0256] Among others, the alkali metal mentioned above is preferably sodium or potassium, especially sodium. Accordingly, preferable chelating agents may include sodium citrate, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, sodium phytate, or a mixture thereof.
[0257] In particular, the dye composition and / or the developer composition of the present invention may comprise the at least one water-soluble chelating agent in a content ranging from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, especially from about 0.1% to about 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition or the developer composition. Process, procedure and use
[0258] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for dyeing human keratinous fibers, in particular hair, using the dyeing kit as described above. By using the retarder composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer, as mentioned above, the effects of slowing down the reactions of the dye or intermediates and reducing the staining of a dye composition can be achieved.
[0259] The present invention also relates to the use of a retarder composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer for reducing staining of a dye, i.e. reducing staining in areas other than keratinous fibers.
[0260] According to a preferred embodiment, the dyeing method of the invention comprises mixing the dye composition and the developer composition immediately before use, and applying the mixture obtained as described above to the keratinous fibers, in order to slow down the reaction between the components, and thus to slow down the dyeing process.
[0261] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for improving the color effect obtained after dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular hair. When the dye composition comprises the aminophenol derivative of the present invention, a relatively lower pH is obtained after mixing the dye composition and the developer composition, and the relatively lower pH contributes to a coppery sheen effect obtained after dyeing the keratinous fibers, the relatively lower pH being less than 9.5, preferably in the range of about 7 to about 9.2, or in the range of about 7 to about 8.7.
[0262] More particularly, by "mixing" or a variation thereof, is meant the act of putting the colorant composition of the present invention into a container or palm, together with the developer composition as described above, with or without stirring them.
[0263] In one embodiment, the colorant composition of the present invention is placed in a container or palm together with the developer composition as described above, without shaking them.
[0264] The mixture of the dye composition and the developer composition is ge generally left in place on the keratinous fibers for a period generally ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
[0265] The temperature during the dyeing process is typically between 20 and 80°C and preferably between 20 and 60°C. After treatment, the human keratinous fibers are advantageously rinsed with water. They may optionally be washed again with shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0266] The process can be repeated several times to obtain the desired coloring.
[0267] The aforementioned dyeing kit may also be equipped with means for deliver the desired mixture to the hair, such as the device described in patent FR 2 586 913.
[0268] The following examples are given purely for illustrative purposes of the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0269] The quantities / concentrations of the ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition / formula. Example 1
[0270] The LA dye composition according to the present invention and the LB dye composition not according to the present invention below were prepared, substantially from the main ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (in which the contents are indicated in % by weight of materials relative to the total weight of the dye composition):
[0271] [Tables 1] INGREDIENTS LA LB GLYCERIN 5 5 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 1.9 1.9 COCO BETAINE 5.42 5.42 CAPRYLYL / CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE 0.3 0.3 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 2 2 EDTA 0.15 0.15 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0.5 THIOGLYCOLIC ACID 0.5 0.5 SODIUM METABISULFITE 1 1 ERYTHORBIC ACID 2 2 p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE 1.77 1.77 m- AMINOPHENOL 0.207 0.207 2-METHYL-5-HYDROXYETHYLAMINOPHENE L 0.142 0.142 4-AMINO-2-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.06 0.06 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE 0.288 0.288 p-AMINOPHENOL (AND) SODIUM METABISULPHITE 0.459 4-AMINO-M-CRESOL 0.523 PHENYL METHYL PYRAZOLONE 0.5 WATER QS QS
[0272] The ILA developer composition according to the present invention and the ILB developer composition not in accordance with the present invention below were prepared, substantially from the main ingredients indicated in Table 2 below (in which the contents are indicated in % by weight of materials relative to the total weight of the composition):
[0273] [Tables2] INGREDIENTS ILA ILB HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 12 12 Ammonium methacrylate crosslinked polymer Acryloyldimethyl taurate / Steareth-25 0.56 GLYCERIN 5 0.5 Phosphoric acid 0.5 0.5 SODIUM STANNATE 0.07 0.04 Water / Aqua QS to 100 QS to 100 Stability test
[0274] The stability property was evaluated using the above LA and LB dye compositions, according to a viscosity test method (CID-012-02, 'CONTRA VES' VISCOSITY DETERMINATION, in unit of UD), and the process included the following steps:
[0275] 1) prepare the dye compositions at room temperature,
[0276] 2) store the samples of the dye compositions at 45°C for 2 months,
[0277] 3) observe the appearance of the samples, and
[0278] 4) analyzing the concentration of the specific retarder composition in the samples. The resulting viscosity and corresponding stability were shown in the following Table 3.
[0279] [Tables3] Properties LA LB Viscosity (UD) 37.5 36.7 Stability OK OK
[0280] During this process, the LA dye composition always showed itself in the form of a gelled emulsion and without color change, and the concentration of the specific retarder composition was more than 50% relative to its original concentration. The data in Table 3 demonstrated that the LA dye composition comprising the retarder composition of the present invention exhibited desirable stability. Clean dye test
[0281] The sample of Example 1 was prepared by mixing the LA dye composition and the ILA developer composition, and the sample of Comparative Example 1 was was prepared by mixing dye composition IB and developer composition II-B. During the processes, each sample reached a pH of about 8.7 or even lower. Then, the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1 were applied to two strands of hair, respectively.
[0282] Figures 1 and 2 were obtained from the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1, respectively, during dyeing. In contrast, it can be seen that, during dyeing, there was no apparent color change for the dye of the sample of Example 1 comprising the specific retarder composition of the present invention, while the color of the dye of the sample of Comparative Example 1 became dark and black with time.Furthermore, the sample of Comparative Example 1 polluted some non-target positions, e.g., the container and / or the tool for dyeing, whereas the sample of Example 1 kept the non-target positions clean, and thus reduced or even avoided stains on the non-target positions. Testing the copper reflection effect
[0283] After applying the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1 to the hair strands, the hair was massaged for about 1 minute and then placed on a heating plate at a constant temperature of 27°C. After 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water. Optionally, the hair was washed again with shampoo and dried according to ordinary methods of the art.
[0284] Figures 3 and 4 were obtained from the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1, respectively. By contrast, it can be seen that the hair strand dyed with the sample of Example 1 had a coppery color and was bright and sparkling, i.e., it had a coppery sheen, while the hair strand dyed with the sample of Comparative Example 1 had a mahogany color, and was dull and not shiny.
Claims
Claims
1. A retarder composition for slowing down the reactions of a dye or its intermediates during dyeing, comprising at least two retarders of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer; preferably, the retarder composition consists substantially of, or even consists of, a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer, wherein the pyrazolone derivative is selected from the group consisting of phenylmethylpyrazolone, especially 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone; diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones; and mixtures thereof; wherein the AMPS polymer is crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the monomer acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid;preferably, the AMPS polymer is selected from the group consisting of sodium acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate homopolymer, AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the ratio of pyrazolone derivative to AMPS polymer by weight is from about 1:5 to about 5:1 and preferably from about 1:2 to about 2:1.;
2. A dyeing kit, comprising: (I) a dye composition, comprising: i) the retarder composition of claim 1, and ii) at least one oxidative dye, comprising an aminophenol derivative; and (II) a developer composition, comprising: iii) at least one oxidant.
3. A dyeing kit according to claim 2, wherein the aminophenol derivative has a pKa of between about 9.0 and about 11.0, preferably between about 9.2 and about 10.2, or between about 9.5 and about 10.0, at a temperature of about 25°C.
4. A dyeing kit according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol derivative, and preferably a 4-aminophenol which is further substituted, preferably 3-substituted, on the phenyl ring with a group R selected from alkyl groups, alkenyl, alkynyl and aryl, preferably with a group R selected from alkyl and aryl groups, or preferably with a group R selected from C1-C4 alkyl and phenyl groups; and the group R is optionally substituted with a Richoisi group from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, carboxyl, hydroxyl, cyano, acyl, sulfoxide, amino and amide groups, preferably with a C1-C4 alkyl or carboxyl group; preferably, the amino group of the aminophenol derivative is unsubstituted.
5. A dyeing kit according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the aminophenol derivative is selected from the group consisting of 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 3-phenyl-4-aminophenol, 3-carboxyl methyl-4-aminophenol, and mixtures thereof.
6. A dyeing kit according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein the dye composition has a low shear viscosity greater than about 1000 mPa s, and a high shear viscosity less than about 500 mPa s, in the form of a gel emulsion, thickened liquid or liquid cream.
7. A method for improving the color effect obtained after dyeing keratinous fibers, for example hair, in particular to obtain a coppery reflection effect, comprising the following steps i) mixing the dye composition and the developer composition included in the dyeing kit according to any one of claims 2 to 6, and ii) applying the mixture obtained in i) to the keratinous fibers, wherein a relatively lower pH is obtained after mixing the dye composition and the developer composition, and said relatively lower pH means a pH value below 9.5, preferably in the range from about 7 to about 9.2, or in the range from about 7 to about 8.7.