Abundant cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a loosely packed cosmetic composition containing a specific preservative system. It also relates to the process for preparing this composition, as well as its use for preventing and / or treating signs of skin dryness.

Description

Title of the invention: Abunded cosmetic composition SUBJECT OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to an expanded cosmetic composition containing a particular preservative system. It also relates to the process for preparing this composition, as well as to its use for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin dryness. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Abundant cosmetic compositions have already been suggested, that is to say compositions having an aerated texture which are in the form of a mousse. These compositions are generally with a continuous oily phase, or even anhydrous. In the case where it is desired to give a less greasy feel to these compositions, it is desirable to formulate them rather in the form of compositions with a continuous aqueous phase, in particular oil-in-water emulsions. However, the incorporation of water requires the inclusion of a preservative system, since bacteria tend to proliferate in an aqueous medium.

[0003] Many preservatives suitable for this purpose are already known. The preservatives chosen must in any case either be listed in European Regulation No. 1223 / 2009 relating to cosmetic products, or, if they are not listed, not have antimicrobial activity as their main function. This last category includes in particular glycols, which are preservative boosters also used as moisturizing actives.

[0004] However, some of these preservatives do not allow the formulation of a composition meeting the requirements of the ISO 16128 standard relating to organic cosmetics, i.e. containing at least 95% by weight of ingredients of natural origin. This is the case for chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol, which are among the listed preservatives. Phenoxyethanol is also currently controversial, insofar as it is suspected in particular of being an allergen.

[0005] Furthermore, the Applicant has noticed that the use of preservatives of natural origin constitutes a real challenge, insofar as they must be used in combination and where the nature and proportions of the preservatives which are associated strongly influence not only their capacity to protect the cosmetic composition against contaminants, but also the ability of the composition to be foamed. Glycols are thus known to destabilize the water / oil interface of foamed emulsions. The Applicant has further demonstrated that certain preservative systems lead to the formation of inhomogeneities in the product leaving the foaming device and a variation in the density of this product over time, so that the products were found to be non-compliant in terms of appearance and mass, which led to their being scrapped.

[0006] After extensive research, the Applicant has developed a preservative system specially adapted to expanded compositions, which makes it possible to effectively preserve these compositions without altering their expansion capacity. It is thus possible to prepare compositions having an expansion rate of at least 45% on an industrial scale. Summary of the invention

[0007] The subject of the invention is thus an expanded cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at least one gas, said composition containing a preservative system comprising, preferably consisting of:

[0008] (a) from 1 to 10% by weight of at least two diols containing from three to six atoms of carbon,

[0009] (b) from 0.05 to 0.35% by weight of glyceryl caprylate,

[0010] (c) from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of at least one glycerol ether,

[0011] (d) optionally at least one diol containing from seven to ten carbon atoms,

[0012] it being understood that constituents (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and that constituent (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight,

[0013] the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] It also relates to a process for preparing this composition, characterized in that it comprises the following successive stages:

[0015] - the preparation of an emulsion from an aqueous phase and a fatty phase,

[0016] - cooling the emulsion to a temperature of 30 to 50°C, if necessary,

[0017] - introducing air into said emulsion by means of a mixer, until achieve an expansion rate of 10 to 150%,

[0018] - possibly, the maturation of the expanded composition thus obtained.

[0019] It also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition defined above to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin dryness, in particular to nourish and / or soften the skin of the face or body, preferably the body. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0020] The composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase constituting a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not generate tingling or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an emulsion, preferably of an oil-in-water emulsion, the constituents of which will now be described in more detail. Fat phase

[0021] Advantageously, the fatty phase included in the composition according to the invention contains at least one oil and at least one fatty phase structuring agent.

[0022] The oils may be chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils. In the context of this description, "oil" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. "Volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of the order of 0.001 to 300 mm Hg and preferably of 0.01 to 10 mm Hg at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, these oils also have a flash point (measured according to the ASTM D93 standard) of less than 100°C, preferably between 50 and 95°C, for example between 70 and 90°C, or even between 80 and 90°C and / or a kinematic viscosity of less than 5 cSt, or even between 1 and 3 cSt, at 40°C.

[0023] Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear C10-C13 alkanes.

[0024] As non-volatile oils, we can cite in particular:

[0025] - esters of acids and mono-alcohols chosen from: mono- and polyesters of acids linear saturated C2-C10 (preferably C6-C10) and linear saturated C10-C18 (preferably C10-C14) monoalcohols, mono- and polyesters of linear saturated C10-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 (preferably C3-C10) monoalcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C5-C20 monoalcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and linear C2-C4 monoalcohols;

[0026] - C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides, such as ca- propyl and capric triglycerides and triheptanoin;

[0027] - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as oleic and li- noleic);

[0028] - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);

[0029] - hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), in particular plant squalane extracted olive oil, and hemisqualane (Cl5);

[0030] - dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;

[0031] - dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and

[0032] - their mixtures.

[0033] As esters of acids and monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate, ethyl macadamiate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl caprylate and mixtures thereof. Other useful esters are diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols such as diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.

[0034] Mention may also be made of vegetable oils which contain one or more of the aforementioned constituents.

[0035] Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Echium, camelina or camellia oils.

[0036] According to the invention, it is preferred to use exclusively non-volatile oils and more preferably, among these, hydrocarbon oils. These preferably contain only carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms and are advantageously chosen from fatty acid esters and vegetable oils. In any event, it is preferred that the composition does not contain silicone oil or any other silicone compound. The oils may represent from 1 to 25% and preferably from 1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one fatty phase structuring agent.

[0038] By "fatty phase structuring agent" is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0039] The term "wax" designates, in the context of this description, a fatty substance which is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C, as measured by DSC. Examples of waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, Chinese insect wax, candelilla wax, camauba wax or acacia wax; hydrogenated vegetable oils, in particular rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, of hydrogenated jojoba, copra and castor oil; esters of linear saturated C14-C30 fatty acids and linear saturated C16-C36 fatty alcohols; linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C10-C30 alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0040] The waxes can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] By "fatty phase gelling agents" is meant compounds modifying the rheology of the fatty phase by forming a three-dimensional network. The compounds of this type used according to the invention are clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites) modified hydrophobically, in particular by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobically modified fumed silicas; dextrin palmitate and myristate; mixtures of glycerides of C16-C26 fatty acids (preferably linear and saturated) such as the compound Nomcort® HKG or triesters of linear and saturated C8-C30 fatty acids, optionally hydroxylated, and mono- or polyglycerol, such as glycerol trihydroxystearate; cellulose derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0042] The fatty phase gelling agent advantageously comprises at least one triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, preferably the triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, identified by the INCI name "TRIHY-DROXYSTEARIN" and which is in particular commercially available from the company Elementis Specialties under the trade name Thixcin® R.

[0043] Finally, the pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with a reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty fatty substance may be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23°C may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.

[0044] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999 and measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to pass from the solid state to the liquid state to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

[0045] The pasty fatty substance may in particular be chosen from:

[0046] - polyol ethers such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers,

[0047] - polyol esters and more particularly: (a) polyglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the product marketed under the brand name Softisan® 649 by the company SASOL, or a polyglycerol ester (obtained by condensation of two to ten, preferably three or four, glycerol units) and a fatty acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol function(s) or free acid function(s), in particular dimer dilinoleate esters such as bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool® G from LIPO CHEMICALS), phytosteryl isostearyl di-merdilinoleate (Lusplan® PLDA, Lusplan® PHY / IS-DA from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool ® H or Plandool® S from LIPO CHEMICALS),

[0048] - arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand name Waxenol® 801 by ALZO, - phytosterol esters,

[0049] - vegetable butters, in particular shea, cocoa and mango butters and preferably shea butter,

[0050] - and mixtures thereof.

[0051] It is preferred that the fatty phase structuring agents consist of a mixture of at least one wax, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, hydrogenated vegetable oils and their mixtures, and at least one pasty fatty substance, advantageously chosen from vegetable butters.

[0052] The fatty phase structuring agents can represent from 1 to 25% and preferably from 5 to 15% of the weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0053] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains water, representing for example from 40 to 90% by weight and preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] It advantageously also contains at least one thickening polymer, which may in particular be chosen from polysaccharides, in particular hyaluronic acid and vegetable gums, such as xanthan or carob gum; non-ionic or anionic polymers based on (meth)acrylic acid, its salts or its esters and / or 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), such as the copolymers designated under the INCI names ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 MATHACRYLATE COPOLYMER and HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYL-DIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER.

[0055] The composition according to the invention generally has a pH ranging from 4 to 7, more preferably from 4.5 to 6. Conservative system

[0056] The composition according to the invention contains a particular preservative system comprising, preferably consisting of:

[0057] (a) from 1 to 10% by weight of at least two diols containing from three to six atoms of carbon,

[0058] (b) from 0.05 to 0.35% by weight of glyceryl caprylate,

[0059] (c) from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of at least one glycerol ether,

[0060] (d) optionally at least one diol containing from seven to ten carbon atoms.

[0061] By "diol" is meant a compound with a hydrocarbon structure, containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms, substituted by two hydroxyl groups only. Their hydrocarbon structure is advantageously acyclic and saturated, and generally linear. Examples of diols containing from three to six carbon atoms are chosen from 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol, preferably they consist of a mixture of 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. For their part, diols containing from seven to ten carbon atoms can in particular be chosen from caprylyl glycol and decanediol, preferably caprylyl glycol.

[0062] These diols are associated with glyceryl caprylate, as well as at least one glycerol ether, which may in particular comprise, or even consist of, glycerol (2-ethylhexyl) ether identified under the INCI name ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN.

[0063] Constituents (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and constituent (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, these percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition. Gas

[0064] The composition according to the invention further contains at least one gas, which may in particular be chosen from air, nitrogen, oxygen and carbon dioxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Air and nitrogen are preferred for use in the present invention.

[0065] The composition is thus in the form of an emulsion in which gas bubbles are trapped, for example having a size of 0.5 to 50 μm. Unlike compositions distributed in an aerosol, in which the foam is formed only at the time of use, the composition according to the invention can be packaged in the form of foam and stored in this form for several months in its packaging. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is packaged in a pot or a tube.

[0066] Due to the presence of the aforementioned gas within its structure, the composition has a density of between 0.40 and 0.9 g / cm3 and preferably between 0.5 and 0.8 g / cm3. Density can be measured conventionally using a pycnometer or beaker of known volume. The expansion rate <e>of the composition is defined as the increase in the volume of composition due to the incorporation of the gas phase and illustrated by the following formula:

[0067] [Chem.l] = Kp^ - p») / p® 3 * loo

[0068] where pc is the density of the composition before overrun and pm is its density after overrun.

[0069] The expansion rate of the composition according to the invention is generally between 10 and 150%. It is preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 45%, or even at least 50%, and generally less than 70%. Other constituents

[0070] The composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more other constituents chosen for example from: surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, of polymeric or non-polymeric type; perfumes; sequestering agents; antioxidants; pH adjusters; UV filters; pigments; dyes, pearlescent agents, powders with a “soft-focus” effect and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Alternatively or additionally, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pulverulent filler, intended to improve its feel, which may be in the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably porous. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical. These fillers may in particular be chosen from:

[0072] - organic fillers such as: polysaccharide powders and in particular native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly(methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyolefins; powders of dried algae such as Corallina officinalis;

[0073] - inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;

[0074] - and mixtures thereof.

[0075] The starches are preferably chosen from corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch. Examples of modified starches are optionally pre-gelatinized and / or oxidized starches, which are esterified by an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular by octenylsuccinic or dodecylsuccinic anhydride, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, as well as etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated, and cationic starches, in particular quaternized. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked by sodium trimetaphosphate. Starches, preferably native, constitute preferred organic fillers for use in this invention.

[0076] These fillers can represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] The composition may also comprise one or more moisturizing and / or soothing active ingredients, in addition to the polyols already present in the preservative system, in particular glycerin, polysaccharides such as beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid, urea, trehalose, panthenol, allantoin, beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, extracts containing them (such as an extract of Glycyrrhiza glabrd), planktons and their extracts, escin and plant extracts containing them (in particular horse chestnut), aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic extracts of rose, cornflower, chamomile, linden, peony, hawthorn, mallow, marigold, sweet clover, sage, elderberry, arnica, oregano, green tea, iris, water lily, birch bark, orange blossom or aloe vera, asiatic acid and extracts (especially Centella asiatica) containing it, extracts of algae of the Laminaria type, zinc or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate,essential oils of coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint or chamomile, ursolic acid and extracts (in particular rosemary) containing them, sunflower unsaponifiables, polysaccharides containing fucose, amino acids, their salts and their acyl derivatives, galactolipids and plant extracts (in particular oats) containing them, acexamic acid, tra-nexamic acid and their mixtures.

[0078] These moisturizing active ingredients represent, for example, from 0.01 to 20% and preferably from 0.3 to 8% of the total weight of the composition. Preparation process

[0079] The composition described above can be prepared according to a process comprising the following successive steps:

[0080] - the preparation of an emulsion from an aqueous phase and a fatty phase,

[0081] - cooling the emulsion to a temperature of 30 to 50°C, if necessary,

[0082] - introducing air into said emulsion by means of a mixer, until achieve an expansion rate of 10 to 150%,

[0083] - possibly, the maturation of the expanded composition thus obtained.

[0084] The emulsion can be prepared in a conventional manner and in particular at a temperature of 70 to 90°C, in which case the process according to the invention comprises a subsequent cooling step before introducing air. Alternatively, it can be prepared at a temperature of less than or equal to 50°C, so that this step is not necessary.

[0085] The introduction of gas into the composition is carried out in a mixer, typically comprising mechanical stirring means and gas supply means. Mixers of this type include aeration systems such as those available from the company HAAS under the trade name Mondomix®. It may be advantageous to provide a maturation stage for the composition before overrun, at a temperature of 30 to 50°C, for a period of at least 12 hours, for example at least 24 hours, or even at least 2 days, or even at least 6 days. Use

[0086] The composition according to the invention is generally in the form of a cream. It is generally a leave-in composition.

[0087] It can be used, by topical application to the skin, to prevent or treat the signs of skin dryness, in particular to nourish and / or soften the skin. Alternatively, it can be used to nourish the hair, in particular the ends. The composition according to the invention can thus be applied to all areas of the body and hair in adults and children, more particularly to the face, neck and / or décolleté, or to drier areas such as elbows, knees, feet, hands, hair and / or lips. It can be applied once or twice a day, preferably morning and / or evening. FIGURES

[0088] [Fig.l] illustrates the appearance at the outlet of the foaming device, and in the pot, of a cream prepared using a preservative system according to the invention.

[0089] [Fig.2] illustrates the appearance at the outlet of the foaming device, and in the pot, of a cream prepared using a comparative preservative system. EXAMPLES

[0090] The invention will be better understood in light of the following examples, which are given purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.

[0091] Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention

[0092] An O / W emulsion was prepared in a conventional manner from the constituents indicated below, used in the following proportions (the constituents in capital letters are designated by their INCI names):

[0093] [Tables 1] Constituent % by weight Fatty substances: 5.0% oils 3.0% waxes 7.0% pasty fats Neutralized thickening polymers 4.1% Polymeric emulsifier 0.3% Glycerin 5.0% Preservative system: PROPANEDIOL 2.5% PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.0% ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN 0.15% GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.3% CAPRYLYL GLYCOL — Antioxidant qs Tapioca starch 2.0% Water qs 100%

[0094] The emulsion thus obtained was steamed between 25 and 45°C and then transferred into a Mondomix® (HAAS) type device equipped with a feed pump, a mixing head for shearing the composition and introducing a gas into it, and a backpressure valve. The parameters of the device were adjusted to obtain an overrun rate of between 45 and 55%.

[0095] The composition obtained had the texture of a white cream with an airy appearance.

[0096] Example 2: Microbiological and proliferation tests

[0097] Various cosmetic compositions similar to that described in Example 1 were prepared and subjected to a microbiological test and an overrun test, respectively. Microbiological test

[0098] A "challenge test" was carried out to evaluate the effectiveness of the preservative system according to the invention compared to similar preservative systems. To do this, the tested compositions were contaminated with microorganisms present on the skin, then the evolution of these microorganisms was monitored for 28 days at 32.5°C, in accordance with ISO 11930:2012. Overflow test

[0099] Air was incorporated into the tested compositions in a pilot plant until an expansion rate of 50 ± 5% was reached.

[0100] The appearance of the composition at the outlet of the mixer was then observed.

[0101] The overflow was considered to be compliant when the formula flowed homogeneously and had a smooth appearance, with no air bubbles being visible.

[0102] Overrun was considered non-compliant when the formula flowed unevenly, due to the introduction of large air bubbles into the cream.

[0103] [Tables2] Cl Al A2 A3 A4 A5 Fatty substances: oils waxes pasty fatty substances 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% Neutralized thickening polymers 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% Polymeric emulsifier 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% Glycerin 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% Preservative system: PROPANEDIOL 2.5% — 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% 2.0% PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% — 2.0% 1.6% ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN 0.15% 0.15% — 0.15% 0.15% 0.12% GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% — 0.24% CAPRYLYL GLYCOL — — — — — — Antioxidant qs qs qs qs qs qs Tapioca starch 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Overrun OK Microbiological test OK KO KO KO KO KO

[0104] [Tables3] Cl C2 A6 A7 C3 C4 Fatty substances: oils waxes pasty fatty substances 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 7.0% Neutralized thickening polymers 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% 4.1% Polymeric emulsifier 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% Glycerin 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% Preservative system: PROPANEDIOL 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% 5% 2.5% PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 3% ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN 0.15% 0.15% 0.3% 0.15% 0.15% 0.15% GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% CAPRYLYL GLYCOL — 0.005% — 0.1% — — Tapioca starch 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% Anti-oxidant qs qs qs qs qs qs Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100 % qsp 100% qsp 100% qsp 100% Proliferation OK OK KO KO OK OK Microbiological test OK OK OK OK OK OK Results

[0105] As can be seen from Table 2, Composition Cl according to the invention meets the expectations in terms of microbiological properties and proliferative properties. [Fig.l] illustrates the appearance of Composition Cl at the outlet of the proliferative device and in the pot.

[0106] On the other hand, compositions A1 to A4, which are devoid of one of the constituents of the preservative system according to the invention, do not satisfy the requirements of the challenge test. The same is true of composition A5 which contains these constituents in quantity insufficient.

[0107] For its part, Table 3 shows that it is possible to add caprylyl glycol to composition C1 according to the invention (Composition C2) without harming the desired preservation and expansion properties, provided that it is not present in too large a quantity (Composition A7). On the other hand, the quantity of diols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms can be increased without harming expansion (Compositions C3 and C4). In addition, the glycerol ether (ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN) present in the composition according to the invention must be used in small quantities, so as not to harm the composition's ability to expand (Composition A6). [Fig. 2] illustrates the appearance of Composition A6 at the outlet of the expansion device and in the pot.< / e>

Claims

Claims

1. Leave-in aerated cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase, at least one gas, said composition containing a preservative system comprising, preferably consisting of: (a) from 1 to 10% by weight of at least two diols containing from three to six carbon atoms, (b) from 0.05 to 0.35% by weight of glyceryl caprylate, (c) from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of at least one glycerol ether, (d) optionally at least one diol containing from seven to ten carbon atoms, it being understood that constituents (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and that constituent (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the diols containing from three to six carbon atoms are chosen from 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol, preferably they consist of a mixture of 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the diol containing from seven to ten carbon atoms is chosen from caprylyl glycol and decanediol, preferably caprylyl glycol.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fatty phase contains at least one oil and at least one fatty phase structuring agent.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains at least one thickening polymer.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has an expansion rate of at least 40%, or even at least 50%.

7. Process for preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises the following successive stages: - the preparation of an emulsion from an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, - cooling the emulsion to a temperature of 30 to 50°C, if necessary, - introducing air into said emulsion by means of a mixer, until a foaming rate of 10 to 150% is reached, - possibly, maturing the foamed composition thus obtained.

8. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin dryness, in particular for nourishing and / or softening the skin of the face or body, preferably the body.

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