Preservative system and associated composition
A preservative system of hydroxyacetophenone and alkyl trimethylammonium bromide in an aqueous phase addresses the need for stable, antimicrobial cosmetic compositions that provide a comfortable skin sensation and effective makeup removal without a greasy finish.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021014119
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-21
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions face challenges in achieving effective broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity while providing a comfortable skin sensation and maintaining stability without requiring shaking before application, particularly in makeup removers that often leave a greasy finish.
A preservative system comprising hydroxyacetophenone and at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide, optionally with a sequestering agent, formulated in an aqueous phase to create a stable, single-phase composition that provides antimicrobial protection and a soft, moisturizing skin sensation.
The composition effectively inhibits microbial growth, ensuring stability and comfort during and after application, without leaving a greasy residue, and maintains antimicrobial efficacy over time.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Preservative system and associated composition
[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of hydroxyacetophenone and at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide as a preservative system. It also relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic makeup-removing and / or keratin-cleansing composition, comprising an aqueous phase including hydroxyacetophenone, at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide, and optionally at least one specific sequestering agent.
[0002] Cosmetic compositions are susceptible to microbial contamination during manufacturing or consumer use. Preservatives are therefore used in cosmetic compositions to kill microbes that come into contact with these compositions. Preservatives protect products from microbial contamination that may occur during manufacturing (also called primary contamination), and protect users from contamination or infection during the use of cosmetic compositions (also called secondary contamination).
[0003] Many types of conventional preservatives are developed to provide cosmetic compositions with sufficient antimicrobial activity. These preservatives allow for good protection of cosmetic compositions against primary and / or secondary contamination.
[0004] Furthermore, consumers seek a feeling of skin comfort after applying cosmetic formulations. By "comfortable skin feeling," we mean a soft, moisturizing, non-sticky sensation after applying a cosmetic formulation. The balance between sufficient antimicrobial activity and a comfortable skin feeling after applying a cosmetic formulation is therefore often a goal for formulators in the cosmetic field.
[0005] Furthermore, consumers expect an improvement in skin comfort after application, such as soft, moisturizing, non-sticky sensations, particularly when cosmetic compositions have to be applied repeatedly to the skin, as is the case for makeup remover compositions.
[0006] Removing makeup from the skin is very important for the care of keratinous materials, particularly those of the skin, lips, and also keratinous fibers such as eyelashes. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, residues from daily cosmetic products, and makeup, accumulate especially in skin folds and on the skin's surface, and can clog pores and thus cause breakouts.
[0007] Furthermore, the majority of available makeup removers are biphasic compositions, i.e., composed of two distinct phases, namely an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which require prior shaking before application. Such formulations allow for good makeup removal, but often leave a greasy finish on the skin.
[0008] There is therefore a need for cosmetic compositions that exhibit effective, broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and improved skin sensation during and / or after application. There is also a need for stable and comfortable cosmetic compositions that are non-sticky. In particular, there is a need for high-performance makeup removers that are comfortable to apply, have a fluid texture, require no shaking before application, and are stable.
[0009] One of the aims of the present invention is to provide a composition with a comfortable skin sensation during and / or after the application of said composition.
[0010] Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition having good antimicrobial activity during primary and / or secondary contaminations, i.e. during manufacturing and / or general public use.
[0011] Another object of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic composition, comprising the association of hydroxyacetophenone and at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide.
[0012] The present invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of an association of hydroxyacetophenone and at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide as a preservative system.
[0013] The present invention also relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for removing makeup and / or cleansing keratinous materials, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: - hydroxyacetophenone, and - at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide.
[0014] This composition may further comprise at least one sequestering agent selected from the following salts of formula (I), as well as its solvates such as hydrates, and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid and its salts:
[0015] [OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH[C(O)O]-(CH2)2-C(O)O, nM+ (I)
[0016] Formula (I) wherein: - M+, identical or different, is chosen from H+, alkali metal cations, the alkaline earth metal cations and ammonium ions, and - n is an integer such that the number of M+ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4.
[0017] Such a composition according to the invention is single-phase aqueous.
[0018] The present invention also relates to a method for removing makeup and / or cleaning keratinous materials, preferably of the skin and / or keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.
[0019] The term “keratinous materials” refers to skin, mucous membranes and / or hair appendages. Preferably, the keratinous materials are skin, particularly facial skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or hair appendages such as eyelashes.
[0020] The term “preservative system” refers to one or more agents included in cosmetic compositions, with the aim of inhibiting the growth of microorganisms present therein.
[0021] By "sensation of skin comfort", one can designate at least one sensation chosen from the group consisting of a soft, moisturizing, non-sticky sensation on the skin, when and / or after the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are applied topically. Hydroxyacetophenone
[0022] The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises hydroxyacetophenone, or p-hydroxyacetophenone, of which CAS number is 99-93-4, and also called l-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-ethanone.
[0023] Hydroxyacetophenone corresponds to the following formula (II):
[0024] [Chem.l]
[0025] Reference may be made to the product sold under the name Symsave H by the company Symrise.
[0026] Preferably, hydroxyacetophenone is used in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.6% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of hydroxyacetophenone relative to the total weight of composition. Alkyl trimethylammonium bromide
[0027] Alkyl trimethylammonium bromide is a quaternary ammonium salt with the following general formula (III):
[0028] [Chem.2] (III)
[0029] in which: - R8 to RIO are each a methyl radical, - RI 1 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and - X represents a bromide ion Br.
[0030] Preferably, RI 1 is a linear alkyl group comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0031] Examples of alkyl trimethylammonium bromide include myristyl-trimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyl-trimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide and mixtures thereof, such as the mixture sold under the name Cetrimide by FEF CHEMICALS.
[0032] Myristyl-trimethylammonium bromide is preferably used.
[0033] Alkyl trimethylammonium bromide is used in a content ranging from 0.01 to 3% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.03 to 1% by weight of active material, better from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of composition.
[0034] The combination of hydroxyacetophenone and at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide according to the invention is preferably formulated in a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase; this combination acts as a preservative system. Preferably, the composition also comprises a specific sequestering agent, which ensures its stability. Seizuring agent
[0035] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one sequestering agent selected from the salts of formula (I) below, as well as its solvates such as hydrates:
[0036] [OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH[C(O)O]-(CH2)2-C(O)O, nM+ (I)
[0037] Formula (I) wherein: - M+, identical or different, is chosen from H+, alkali metal cations, the alkaline earth metal cations and ammonium ions, and - n is an integer such that the number of M+ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4.
[0038] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the sequestering agent(s) are of formula (I) as defined above, wherein M+, identical or different, is chosen from alkali metal cations, alkali metal cations earthy and ammonium ions.
[0039] When M+, identical or different, is chosen from among the alkali metal cations and ammonium ions, then n is equal to 4.
[0040] When M+, identical or different, is chosen from among the alkaline earth metal cations, then n is equal to 2.
[0041] By "alkali metal cations", we mean in particular Na+ and K+ ions.
[0042] By "alkaline earth metal cations", we mean in particular the Mg2+ and Ca2+ ions.
[0043] Preferably, the M+ cations are identical.
[0044] Preferably, M+ is chosen from among the alkali metal cations.
[0045] Preferably, M+ is Na+.
[0046] Preferably, the sequestering agent has the following formula (I'), as well as its solvates such as hydrates:
[0047] [OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH(COO)-(CH2)2-C(O)0.4Na+(I')
[0048] This compound with formula (!') is tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (CAS No: 51981-21-6). This compound is notably marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name Dissolvine GL-47-S.
[0049] According to another embodiment, the sequestering agent is selected from ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts. Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is the compound with formula (IV):
[0050] [Chem.3] (IV).
[0051] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are particularly preferred.
[0052] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active matter in water), or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by Octel Performance Chemicals.
[0053] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of sequestering agent of between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight. Aqueous phase
[0054] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratinous materials.
[0055] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more organic solvent(s) soluble in water at 25°C. This solvent(s) may advantageously be chosen, for example, from C2 to C6 alkanols (C2 to C6 aliphatic monoalcohols), preferably comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and their mixtures.
[0056] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent selected from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide motifs and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
[0057] The composition generally comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 60 to 98% by weight, preferably from 80 to 97% by weight.
[0058] The quantity of organic solvent(s) can range for example from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0059] The composition may also include ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as active ingredients, antioxidants, perfumes, neutralizers, surfactants or mixtures thereof.
[0060] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0061] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may include a neutralizer, such as an acid and / or a base.
[0062] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one base.
[0063] The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxides, ammonia, organic bases such as, for example, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropylamine, tri[(2-hydroxy) 1-propyl)]amine, N,N-dimethyl ethanolamine, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol, triethylamine, dimethylamino-propylamine and amphoteric bases (i.e. bases having both anionic and cationic functional groups) such as primary, secondary, tertiary or cyclic organic amines, amino acids. Examples of amphoteric bases include glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxymethylaminomethane (TRISTA), triethanolamine, and any mixture thereof.
[0064] According to a particular embodiment, the base of the composition is selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxides, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tro-metamine, and any mixture thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the base of the composition is selected from sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] According to a particular embodiment, the base of the composition according to the invention is present at a mass concentration of less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.25% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0066] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one acid.
[0067] The acid can be chosen from mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, organic acids such as acetic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid and any of their mixtures.
[0068] The acid can be chosen from organic acids, such as benzoic acid, anisic acid, salicylic acid and any of their mixtures.
[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the acid of the composition according to the invention is present at a mass concentration of less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.25% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0070] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one surfactant.
[0071] This surfactant may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, or cationic. It may be hydrocarbon or silicone-based, and may possess a balance at 25°C HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the GRIFFIN sense, preferably greater than or equal to 8.
[0072] The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.
[0073] Preferably, the surfactant according to the invention is chosen from: a. Anionic surfactants such as: - polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, in particular those derived from alkali salts, and mixtures thereof; - phosphoric esters and their salts such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N ION from the company CRODA) or monopotassium monoketyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan); - sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfo-succinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”; - alkyl ethers sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate; - isethionates; - acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures; - soy derivatives such as potassium soyate; - citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets of Degussa); - proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, Palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic); - lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB); - sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75 / 25 (Crodasin SM from Croda); - sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant); - glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Ajinomoto's Amilite GCS-12); b. - C16-C30 fatty acid salts, in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and / or amino-2-methyl-2-propane di-1,3 stearate; amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such as N-acyl-amino acids like N-alkyl-aminoacetates (like trimethylglycine), disodium cocoamphodiacetate, amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company PHOENIX CHEMICAL; non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, such as: - esters and ethers of sugars such as cetostearyl mixture glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols such as Seppic's Montanov 68; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohols, and preferably C12-C18) such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), and the oxyethylenated ether of the C12-C15 fatty alcohol mixture containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7") marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS, - fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acids, and preferably C16-C22) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA, - fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24 fatty acids, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT S® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT; and polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 groups. ethylene oxide such as the product TAGAT O® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from GOLDSCHMIDT, fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24 fatty acids, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids), and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate-20 sold under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate-60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA, poloxamers, which are copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide. Propylene oxide (OP) and ethylene oxide (OE) copolymers, also called OE / OP polycondensates, are copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks. Preferably, the OE / OP polycondensate is selected from triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol polycondensates, for example those having the following chemical structure: H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH, where a ranges from 2 to 150 and b from 1 to 100; preferably a ranges from 10 to 130 and b from 20 to 80. Examples of polycondensates include the triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol polycondensates marketed under the name "Synperonic" by the company Uniqema, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (13 OE / 30 OP / 13 OE) (MW: 2900) marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 64 NAA LQ (Poloxamer 184), ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (8 OE / 30 OP / 8 OE) (MW: 2500) marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 62 (INCI name: Poloxamer 182), ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (6 OE / 67 OP / 6 OE) (MW: 4400) marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 121 (name INCI: Poloxamer 401), ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (46 OE / 16 OP / 46 OE) (MW: 5000) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F38 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (128 OE / 54 OP / 128 OE) (MW: 14,000) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (11 OE / 21 OP / 11 OE) (MW: 2200) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), the ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (5 OE / 21 OP / 5 OE) (MW: 1630) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (98 OE / 67 OP / 98 OE) (MW: 12,000) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407),ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (97 OE / 39 OP / 97 OE) (MW: 10,800) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, poloxamer is the condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (13 OE / 30 OP / 13 OE) (MW: 2900), in particular as marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 64 NAA LQ by the company Croda (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), d. cationic surfactants such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and e. mixtures thereof.
[0074] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least one amphoteric surfactant, such as those mentioned above (group b) and at least one non-ionic surfactant, such as those mentioned above (group c). Preferably, the mixture comprises disodium cocoamphodiacetate and a poloxamer, preferably ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensate (13 OE / 30 OP / 13 OE) (MW: 2900), in particular as marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 64 NAA LQ by Croda (INCI name: Poloxamer 184).
[0075] Preferably, the surfactant content (i.e., active matter) generally ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.4 to 2% by weight.
[0076] Such a surfactant contributes in particular to the formation of micelles within the composition. These micelles can be detected by physicochemical methods, such as the optical XRD method.
[0077] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of an oily phase (also called a fat phase). By "substantially free of an oily phase," it is understood that the composition according to the invention has an oily phase content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is completely free of an oily phase. Preferably, "oil" is understood to mean a fat that is in liquid form at room temperature (20 to 25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The "fat" comprises at least one "fatty" hydrocarbon chain, that is, a linear hydrocarbon chain of at least 4 carbon atoms, unsaturated or non-unsaturated, optionally substituted, and in particular a linear C5-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid). By "substantially free of EDTA," it is understood that the composition according to the invention has an EDTA content of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is completely free of EDTA.
[0079] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is transparent.
[0080] For the purposes of this invention, a transparent composition is defined as a composition having a turbidity value of less than 20 NTU, preferably less than 15 NTU, and preferably less than 10 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.
[0081] NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement for the turbidity of a composition. Turbidity measurement is carried out, for example, with a Hach Company model 2100P turbidimeter, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).
[0082] Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value between 1 and 20 NTU, preferably between 1 and 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU.
[0083] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is packaged in a transparent anti-UV package.
[0084] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition such as defined above for the removal of makeup and / or the cleansing of keratinous materials, preferably from the skin and / or mucous membranes (such as the lips) and / or keratinous fibers (such as eyelashes).
[0085] The present invention also relates to a method for removing makeup and / or cleaning keratinous materials, preferably from the skin and / or mucous membranes (such as lips) and / or keratinous fibers (such as eyelashes), comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials.
[0086] Throughout the application, the words "including a" or "containing a" mean "including at least one" or "containing at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0087] The invention is now illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage of the total weight of composition (% w / w), unless otherwise stated. Example 1: Micellar waters according to the invention
[0088] The aqueous compositions according to the invention detailed in the table below are prepared as follows:
[0089] The water in phase A is heated to a temperature of approximately 50°C to 60°C, and the other ingredients of phase A are added.
[0090] Then the other ingredients of phases B, C and D are added.
[0091] [Tables 1] Ingredient Formula 1 (% w / w) Formula 2 (% w / w) Phase Water 34.8 34.8 A HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.2 0.3 A TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE (Dissolvine GL-47-S from Akzo Nobel) 0.5 0.5 A POLOXAMER 184 (Synperonic PE / L64 N AA LQ from Croda) 0.5 0.5 A GLYCERIN 1 1 A DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE (Miranol C2M MW from Rhodia, approximately 40% active ingredient) 1.4 1.4 B MYRTRIMONIUM BROMIDE (FEF cetrimide PH EUR from Novo Nordisk) 0.07 0.07 C HEXYLENE GLYCOL 1 1 C Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 D Citric Acid 0.075 0.07
[0092] Example 2: Evaluation of stability and preservative effect
[0093] Formulas Fl to F5 were prepared according to the protocol of example 1.
[0094] Only formula F4* is according to the invention (marked by an asterisk), the others are comparatives.
[0095] [Tables2] Ingredient Fl F2 F3 F4* F5 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 2 DISODIUM EDTA DISODIUM COCOAMPHO- DIACETATE (Miranol C2M MW from Rhodia, approximately 40% active ingredient) 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 POLOXAMER 184 1 1 1 1 GLYCERIN 1 1 1 1 1 MYRTRIMONIUM BROMIDE 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phytic acid 0.1 Propylene glycol 3 Hydroxyaacetophenone (Symsave H from Symrise) 0.3 Caprylyl glycol 0.3
[0096] Stability is evaluated as follows:
[0097] The formulas are placed in transparent anti-UV packs, at a temperature of 4°C, TA, 37°C or 45°C for a maximum period of 2 months.
[0098] 10-day cycle, with descent to -20°C, plateau, then ascent to +20°C and plateau, for fixed durations of 6 hours; a cycle thus lasts 24 hours.
[0099] Stability also includes a visual observation which includes the transparency of the formula, and the absence of visible particles, color and unpleasant odor.
[0100] The conservative effect is evaluated as follows: ANTIMICROBIAL EFFICACY TEST PROTOCOL
[0101] The effectiveness of each formula is evaluated by means of a test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.
[0102] It consists of artificially contaminating the product to be tested with various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and molds) and monitoring the number of viable germs over time.
[0103] A satisfactorily protected product must allow decontamination of introduced microorganisms, decontamination that is more or less rapid depending on the microbial strains, product type and packaging item.
[0104] The product is divided into as many pillboxes as there are microorganisms to be tested. A calibrated suspension of microorganisms is introduced into each of these pillboxes.
[0105] The effectiveness of the formula protection is tested on a limited but selected microbial spectrum from among the species likely to contaminate the product, both during manufacturing and during its use. In this case, it includes four bacteria (Ente-rococcus faecalis, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus), one yeast (Candida albicans) and one mold (Aspergillus brasiliensis).
[0106] The sample taken to count the remaining microorganisms in the product takes place after 7, 14 and 28 days of contact between the product and the germ.
[0107] The dilutions carried out to perform the counts are inoculated onto Petri dishes.
[0108] The kinetics (growth or decay) for a given seed at a given time is then expressed as a logarithmic reduction.
[0109] The results are as follows:
[0110] [Tables3] Criterion Fl F2 F3 F4* F5 Stability Not stable Stable Not stable Stable Not stable Antimicrobial efficacy NA Non-compliant over time NA OK OK [YES] NA= not done
[0112] OK = Meets expectations
[0113] The results show that only the F4* formula according to the invention is stable while providing satisfactory antimicrobial efficacy.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for removing makeup and / or cleansing keratinous materials, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: - hydroxyacetophenone, - at least one alkyl trimethylammonium bromide selected from myristyl-trimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyl-trimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide and mixtures thereof, and - a mixture of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant.
2. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising - at least one sequestering agent selected from the following formula (I) salts, as well as its solvates such as hydrates, and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid and its salts: [-OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH[C(O)O-]-(CH2)2-C(O)O-, nM+ (I) Formula (I) wherein: - M+, identical or different, is selected from H+, alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations and ammonium ions, and - n is an integer such that the number of M+ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein hydroxyacetophenone is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.6% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of hydroxyacetophenone relative to the total weight of composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein alkyl trimethylammonium bromide is myristyl-trimethylammonium bromide.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein alkyl trimethylammonium bromide is used in a content of 0.01 to 3% by weight of active material, preferably 0.03 to 1% by weight of active material, preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the sequestering agent is selected from the following formula compounds (I'), and its solvates such as the hydrates: [ OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH(COO )-(CH2)2-C(O)0,4Na+(I').
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising an amount of sequestering agent of between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises disodium cocoamphodiacetate and a poloxamer, preferably ethylene oxide condensate, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (13 OE / 30 OP / 13 OE) (MW: 2900).
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising a surfactant (i.e. active substance) content of 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably of 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more particularly of 0.4 to 2% by weight.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is substantially free of oil phase, preferably totally free of oil phase, and / or substantially free of EDTA, preferably totally free of EDTA.
11. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, for the removal of makeup and / or the cleansing of keratinous materials, preferably of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratinous fibers.
12. Method for removing makeup and / or cleaning keratinous materials, preferably of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratinous fibers, comprising applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.