Smooth, stable, non-sticky composition

Abstract

Smooth, stable, non-sticky composition. The present invention relates to a composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one acid selected from hydroxylated acids, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof; (d) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue; (e) at least one thickener; (f) at least one powder; and (g) water, wherein the HLB (d) of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of the (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is between 8.0 and 11.5. The composition according to the present invention comprises acid (c), but it is stable and can provide no stickiness or a reduced stickiness, as well as a non-greasy or smooth feel. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Smooth, stable, non-sticky composition Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, which is non-sticky, creamy and stable. Prior art

[0002] Peeling is a well-known means for improving the appearance of the skin surface, in particular for treating visible and / or tactile irregularities of human skin and, for example, for reducing pigmentation defects such as skin freckles or spots due to acne or chicken pox, or for smoothing irregularities in skin texture, in particular wrinkles or fine lines.

[0003] This peeling has the effect of removing part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly the upper layer of the dermis) by chemical methods such as the application of compositions containing one or more exfoliating agent(s) stimulating the desquamation of the skin, for example, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid and phytic acid, or other active substances such as retinoic acid, resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid or phenol. Disclosure of the invention

[0004] It has been found that if an exfoliating agent is incorporated into an emulsion such as a milky lotion, this incorporation often provides a sticky or greasy feel to the touch and tends to be unstable, particularly unstable over time and / or with changes in temperature.

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which provides no sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling after application, as well as a non-greasy feeling or a soft feeling to the touch, and which is stable, in particular stable over time and / or under temperature variations, even if the composition comprises an exfoliating agent.

[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, in the form of an O / W emulsion, comprising:

[0007] (a) at least one oil;

[0008] (b) at least one fatty alcohol;

[0009] (c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures of these;

[0010] (d) at least one polyglycerolated fatty acid ester having a C6-C fatty acid residue 32 ;

[0011] (e) at least one thickener;

[0012] (f) at least one powder and

[0013] (g) water;

[0014] wherein the HLB of (d) the polyglycerolated fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of (d) the polyglycerolated fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is between 8.0 and 11.5.

[0015] Oil (a) may be selected from the group consisting of ester oils, triglyceride oils and mixtures thereof.

[0016] The amount of oil (a) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The fatty alcohol (b) may be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0018] The amount of fatty alcohol (b) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The above hydroxy acid for acid (c) may be selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The amount of acid (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue may have a polyglycerol-derived moiety of 2 to 10 glycerins, preferably 2 to 8 glycerins and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerins.

[0022] The amount (d) of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The thickener (e) may be chosen from polysaccharides, AMPS (co)polymers and a mixture of the latter.

[0024] The amount of thickener (e) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The powder (f) can be chosen from the group consisting of pigments, fillers and their mixtures.

[0026] The amount of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The amount of water (g) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 45% to 90% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and, better still, from 55% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin material. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0029] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered a new approach to providing a composition that provides no or reduced sticky feeling after application, as well as a non-greasy or soft feel to the touch and that is stable, in particular stable over time and / or temperature variations, even if the composition includes an exfoliating agent, by using a specific combination of selected ingredients under certain conditions.

[0030] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0031] (a) at least one oil;

[0032] (b) at least one fatty alcohol;

[0033] (c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures of these;

[0034] (d) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6 fatty acid residue -C32;

[0035] (e) at least one thickener;

[0036] (f) at least one powder and

[0037] (g) water;

[0038] where

[0039] the HLB of (d) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is between 8.0 and 11.5.

[0040] The composition according to the present invention comprises an exfoliating agent, i.e., the acid (c), but may provide no or reduced stickiness and a non-greasy or smooth feel.

[0041] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent sensation during use, in particular to the touch of the skin during and after application of the composition.

[0042] The term “sticky” herein refers to a property that provides a sticky sensation to the skin.

[0043] The term "fat" here refers to a property that provides a viscous sensation to the skin.

[0044] The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even during temperature changes from cold to hot. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period of time even with temperature changes occurring from winter to summer.

[0045] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[0046] [Oil]

[0047] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

[0048] Here, by "oil" is meant a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As (a) oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0049] The oil (a) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil or a mixture thereof.

[0050] The oil (a) may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0051] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0053] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0054] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0055] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, we can cite palmitate ethyl, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0056] Esters of C4-C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0057] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0058] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0059] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives such as methylated derivatives, for example, methylglucose.

[0060] The fatty acid sugar esters may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0061] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0062] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as hexanoate of pentaerythrityl tetraethyl.

[0063] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0064] As an example, we can cite the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0065] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl octanoate2, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, iopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) caprylate / linolenate.

[0067] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0069] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked by a hydrocarbon group.

[0070] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0071] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly among:

[0072] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by the company Momentive Performance Materials and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl-siloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by the company Union Carbide, of formula: p D ~ D ——DD — QH, I------------------------------j CHî j. i '• II with D*: """ ” O with D*: If "" O — :¼

[0073] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2 le ',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0074] (II) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 -6 m 2 / s at 25°C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0075] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0076] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:

[0077] - Silbione ® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil ® oils commer marketed by Rhodia, such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0078] - oils from the Mirasil ® series marketed by the company Rhodia;

[0079] - Dow Corning 200 series oils, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0080] - General Electric Viscasil ® oils and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0081] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company Rhodia.

[0082] Among the silicones with aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. As examples, mention may be made of the products marketed under the following names:

[0083] - Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

[0084] - oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0085] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0086] - Bayer PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;

[0087] - certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0088] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0089] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

[0090] - linear or branched lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, possibly cyclic. A Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane and

[0091] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as paraffin oils, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0092] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, etc., hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0093] In one embodiment, the oil (a) may be chosen from triglyceride oils.

[0094] The triglyceride oil comprises at least one triglyceride. The triglyceride may be referred to as triacyl glycerol, and three fatty acids or two fatty acids and one non-fatty acid and one glycerol are esterified in the triglyceride.

[0095] The fatty acid may have, for example, 4 or more, 6 or more, 8 or more, or 10 or more carbon atoms, and 30 or fewer, 28 or fewer, 26 or fewer, or 24 or fewer carbon atoms. The fatty acid may have a different carbon chain length, e.g. for example, from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The carbon chain may be linear or branched.

[0096] The fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0097] Examples of saturated fatty acids include, for example, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid and octa-docosanoic acid.

[0098] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, ei-cosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead's acid, eicosatrienoic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, tetracosapentaenoic and nidocosapentaenoic acid,

[0099] Examples of non-fatty acid may be dicarboxylic acids which may have, for example, 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, or 4 or more carbon atoms and 12 or fewer, 10 or fewer, 8 or fewer, or 6 or fewer carbon atoms. The non-fatty acid may have a different carbon chain length, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 4 to 6 carbon atoms. The carbon chain may be straight or branched.

[0100] The non-fatty acid, preferably the dicarboxylic acid, may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0101] Examples of saturated non-fatty acid, preferably saturated dicarboxylic acid, include, for example, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid and sebacic acid.

[0102] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, maleic acid, fumaric acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid and 2-pentenoic acid.

[0103] The triglyceride oil that may be suitable for the present invention is of plant origin. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride oil is chosen from vegetable oils.

[0104] The vegetable oil can be chosen from extracted vegetable oils, extracted vegetable butters and their mixtures.

[0105] Among the vegetable oils, we can cite: jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, canola oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil, rapeseed oil and coconut oil.

[0106] Among the vegetable butters, we can cite: shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Sal butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia), Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.

[0107] In a preferable embodiment, the triglyceride oil may be selected from caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride, shea butter and a mixture thereof.

[0108] It is preferable that the oil (a) is chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils and mixtures thereof.

[0109] It is preferable that the oil (a) is chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0110] The amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] On the other hand, the amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less and, more preferably, 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] [Fatty alcohol]

[0114] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of fatty alcohol may be used, but two or more different types fatty alcohol can be used in combination.

[0115] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and most preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0116] The fatty alcohol (b) may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0117] As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols (b) there may be mentioned lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0118] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0119] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0120] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0121] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (b) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The amount (b) of fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] On the other hand, the quantity (b) of fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, even better, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] The quantity (b) of fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] [Acid]

[0126] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof. If two or more of these acids are used, they may be the same or different.

[0127] It is preferable that the hydroxy acid is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

[0128] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid," or "AHA," herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. Thus, in other words, AHA is a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0129] The alpha-hydroxy acid may be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof and, more preferably, from lactic acid.

[0130] The term “beta-hydroxy acid,” or “BHA,” herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0131] The beta-hydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.

[0132] It is preferable to use, as acids (c), a combination of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid and, even more preferably, a combination of lactic acid and salicylic acid with phytic acid.

[0133] It is known that AHA activates protease in the stratum corneum to promote the degradation of comeodesmosomes, while in the dermis layer, AHA can promote collagen formation, which then leads to skin desquamation. In addition, AHA has also been reported to decrease facial pores and blackheads, most likely by targeting enzyme activation and protein functions related to sebum production.

[0134] BHA is known to add keratolytic activity that promotes peeling and desquamation of cells in the stratum corneum. It also decongests the skin by softening the sebum that clogs pores. For this reason, it is effective in improving desquamation and is particularly effective for acne-prone and oily skin.

[0135] The amount of the acid(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The amount of acid(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] [Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester]

[0139] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue. Only one type of such a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of such polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

[0140] Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is a type of a non-ionic surfactant.

[0141] It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably from 2 to 6 glycerols.

[0142] If only one (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is used, (d) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue has an HLB (Hydrophilic / Hydrophilic Balance) value of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.5 to 11.0 and most preferably 9.0 to 10.5.

[0143] If two or more (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue are used, the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of the (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is 8.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.5 to 11.0 and more preferably 9.0 to 10.5.

[0144] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters, diesters, and triesters. It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters and diesters.

[0145] It is preferable that ingredient (d) comprises at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C22 fatty acid residue and at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue.

[0146] The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a C6-C22 fatty acid residue. The C6-C22 fatty acid residue may be derived from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably saturated fatty acids, comprising 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 20 carbon atoms and, more preferably, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0147] The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C22 fatty acid residue may be selected from the group consisting of the following: PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 ses-quicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 sréarate, PG2 sesquisréarate, PG2 disréarate, PG2 trisréarate, PG2 isosréarate, PG2 sesquiisosréarate, PG2 düsosréarate, PG2 triisosréarate, PG2 oléate, PG2 sesquioléate, PG2 dioléate, PG2 trioléate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 sréarate, PG3 sesquisréarate, PG3 disréarate, PG3 trisréarate, PG3 isosréarate, PG3 sesquiisosréarate, PG3 düsosréarate, PG3 triisosréarate, PG3 oléate, PG3 sesquioléate, PG3 dioléate, PG3 trioléate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate,PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 sréarate, PG4 sesquisréarate, PG4 disréarate, PG4 trisréarate, PG4 isosréarate, PG4 sesquiisosréarate, PG4 düsosréarate, PG4 triisosréarate, PG4 oléate, PG4 sesquioléate, PG4 dioléate, PG4 trioléate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 sréarate, PG5 sesquisréarate, PG5 disréarate, PG5 trisréarate, PG5 tetrasréarate, PG5 isosréarate, PG5 sesquiisosréarate, PG5 düsosréarate, PG5 triisosréarate, PG5 te-traisosréarate, PG5 oléate, PG5 sesquioléate, PG5 dioléate, PG5 trioléate, PG5 te-traoléate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate,PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 penta-myristate, PG6 sréarate, PG6 sesquisréarate, PG6 disréarate, PG6 trisréarate, PG6 tetrasréarate, PG6 pentasréarate, PG6 isosréarate, PG6 sesquiisosréarate, PG6 dü-sosréarate, PG6 triisosréarate, PG6 tetraisosréarate, PG6 pentaisosréarate, PG6 oléate, PG6 sesquioléate, PG6 dioléate, PG6 trioléate, PG6 tetraoléate, PG6 pentaoléate, PG 10 caprylate, PG10 sesquicaprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 tetracaprylate, PG10 pentacaprylate, PG10 hexacaprylate, PG10 caprate, PG10 sesquicaprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 tetracaprate, PG10 pentacaprate, PG 10 hexacaprate, PG 10 laurate, PG 10 sesquilaurate, PG 10 dilaurate, PG 10 trilaurate, PG10 tetralaurate, PG10 pentalaurate,PG10 hexalaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 sesquimyristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 tetramyristate, PG10 penta-myristate, PG10 hexamyristate, PG10 srearate, PG10 sesquisrearate, PG10 disrearate, , PG 10 trisrearate, PG 10 tetrasrearate, PG 10 pentasrearate, PG 10 hexasrearate, PG 10 isosrearate, PG10 sesquiisosrearate, PG10 diisosrearate, PG10 triisosrearate, PG10 te-traisosrearate, PG10 pentaisosrearate, PG10 hexaisosrearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 ses-quioleate, PG 10 dioleate, PG 10 trioleate, PG 10 tetraoleate, PG 10 pentaoleate, and PG 10 hexaoleate.

[0148] It is preferable that the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C22 fatty acid residue is chosen from:

[0149] - polyglyceryl monoisostearate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units,

[0150] - polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units,

[0151] - polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units, and

[0152] - polyglyceryl distearate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units.

[0153] Examples of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C22 fatty acid residue include Salacos 41V from Nisshin Oilio Group, Ltd., Tegosoft PC 41 from Evonik Co., Ltd. and Emalex DSG-6 from Nihon Emulsion Co., Ltd.

[0154] The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a C24-C32 fatty acid residue. The C24-C32 fatty acid residue may be derived from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably saturated fatty acids, comprising 24 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, 26 to 28 carbon atoms, such as lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, cerotic acid and montanic acid.

[0155] It is preferable that the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue is a polyglyceryl diester represented by the following formula (B)

[0156] R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B)

[0157] where:

[0158] R3 and R4 respectively denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty chain in C24 to C32 and

[0159] n denotes 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 8 and better still 2 to 6.

[0160] According to one embodiment, in formula (B), the group R3-C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of a C24 to C32 fatty acid, said acid being most often linear and saturated, and preferably corresponding to a linear and saturated C24 to C30 fatty acid. This is therefore, for example, tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24) or hexacosanoic (or cerotic) acid (C26). The R4 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of an alcohol, said alcohol being most often saturated and linear, and having a C24 to C32 chain, preferably C24 to C30.

[0161] According to the present invention, the polyglyceryl diester can be obtained by esterification of a solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol.

[0162] Depending on the source of the wax, the monoester mixture may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic acid or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, of beeswax. Preferably, said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol.

[0163] Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, syagrus coronata wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.

[0164] Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

[0165] The solid waxes suitable for obtaining the polyglyceryl diester may have a melting point of between 50 and 90°C. They correspond to mixtures essentially comprising monoesters of formula R*-C(O)-O-R2, where the group R1 -C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid, said acid being generally linear and saturated and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 24, and in particular 26, and preferably up to 32 and even better 30.

[0166] Depending on the origin of the wax, the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic acid or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, of beeswax. The R2 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of an alcohol, said alcohol being most often saturated and linear and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, in particular 20, and preferably up to 44 and even better 34. Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, P wax, shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.

[0167] Preferably, the solid wax suitable for the esterification reaction is beeswax.

[0168] Preferably, the polyol used for the esterification is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methylpropanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer of glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization of between 2 and 6, preferably 3. Preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol-3.

[0169] The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue may comprise the acid portion of a solid wax. Waxes have a complex composition. They have in common that they contain a mixture of monoesters of very long chain fatty acids and alcohols.

[0170] Preferably, the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a C24-C32 fatty acid residue is a wax derivative obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol and optionally at least one catalyst. In such a case, a transesterification reaction occurs between the different chemical entities giving the wax derivative.

[0171] Preferred catalysts are alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides or alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or tin or titanium based catalysts.

[0172] Preferably, the solid wax is advantageously chosen from the group comprising carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, sugar cane wax, Syagrus coronata wax, beeswax and Shellac wax.

[0173] In a preferred embodiment, the wax derivative is obtained by reacting beeswax and a polyglycerol such as polyglycerol-3.

[0174] In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C.

[0175] It is preferable that the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue is polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

[0176] The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue can be used as a combination with other ingredients.

[0177] For example, the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue may be used as a combination of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

[0178] As a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue, EMULIUM® MELLIFERA (Gattefossé) comprising a mixture of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and poly-glyceryl-3 beeswax (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol) may be used. This mixture comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of jojoba wax; from 3% to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol; at least 50% by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate and from 3 to 15% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0179] The amount (d) of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] On the other hand, the amount (d) of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] The amount (d) of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] If ingredient (d) comprises at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue, and at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C24-C32 fatty acid residue, the weight ratio of the amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the amount of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be greater than 15 and less than 35, preferably greater than 17 and less than 30, and more preferably greater than 19 and less than 25.

[0183] Thickener]

[0184] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one thickener. Only one type of thickener may be used, but two or more different types of thickeners may be used in combination.

[0185] The thickener or thickening agent may be chosen from organic and inorganic thickeners.

[0186] The thickener (e) can be chosen from the group consisting of:

[0187] (i) associative thickeners;

[0188] (ii) crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid;

[0189] (iii) Crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and (Ci-C6) alkyl acrylate;

[0190] (iv) non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type;

[0191] (v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and acrylate copolymers ammonium and acrylamide;

[0192] (vi) polysaccharides and

[0193] (vii) C12-C30 fatty alcohols.

[0194] (i) As used herein, the term “associative thickener” means a thickener amphiphilic comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.

[0195] Representative associative thickening agents that may be used are associative polymers selected from:

[0196] (aa) non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;

[0197] (bb) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;

[0198] (cc) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit and

[0199] (dd) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;

[0200] in which the fatty chain contains from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0201] The non-ionic amphiphilic (aa) polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit may, for example, be chosen from:

[0202] (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fat; examples include:

[0203] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, and whose alkyl groups are, for example, C8-C22, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C1-C6 alkyls) marketed by the company Aqualon and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 marketed by the company Berol Nobel and

[0204] - celluloses modified by polyalkylene alkylphenyl ether groups glycol, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) marketed by the company Amerchol.

[0205] (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) marketed by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-3 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) marketed by the company Rhône-Poulenc,

[0206] (3) polyether methanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups such as, for example, the products Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 marketed by Akzo or the products Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 marketed by Rohm & Haas.

[0207] (4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat;

[0208] Examples that may be mentioned include:

[0209] - the products Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone / copolymer hexadecene) marketed by the company ISP and

[0210] - Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) marketed by the ISP company.

[0211] (5) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer marketed by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208.

[0212] (6) copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and hy monomers drophobes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as a polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0213] The amphiphilic anionic polymers (bb) comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty unit may, for example, be chosen from those comprising at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising an unsaturated anionic monomeric ethylenic unit, for example for example, a vinylcarboxylic acid unit and, furthermore, for example, be chosen from units derived from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids and mixtures thereof, in which the fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

[0214] CH2=C(R|)CH2OBriR (I)

[0215] in which Ri is chosen from H and CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is chosen between zero and integers ranging from 1 to 100, R is chosen from hydrocarbon radicals chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and, in addition, for example, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and further, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0216] In one embodiment, a unit of formula (I) is, for example, a unit in which Ri may be H, n may be 10, and R may be a stearyl radical (C[8 )•

[0217] Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479 B2.

[0218] In one embodiment, the anionic amphiphilic polymers are, for example, polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I) and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, di-vinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

[0219] Examples of such polymers are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and polyethylene glycol stearyl ether (10 EO) (Steareth-10), such as those marketed by Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0220] The anionic amphiphilic polymers may, in addition, be chosen, for example, from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated carboxylic olefinic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. The hydrophilic unit of unsaturated carboxylic olefinic acid type corresponds, for example, to the monomer of formula (II) below: —C—QH L Ü RO

[0221] where R1 is selected from H, CH3, and C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid units, of methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (Ci0-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds, for example, to the monomer of formula (III) below: (III) G

[0222] where R1 is selected from H, CH3, and C2H5 (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate, and methacrylate units) and is, for example, selected from, for example, H (acrylate units) and CH3 (methacrylate units) and R2 is selected from C10-C3O alkyl radicals, for example, C[2-C22] alkyl radicals.

[0223] Examples of (Ci0-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0224] Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to U.S. Patent Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0225] Representative anionic amphiphilic polymers that can be used may, in addition, be chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0226] (7) acrylic acid, an ester of formula (IV) below: , (IV) L il É o

[0227] where R1 is selected from H and CH3, R2 is selected from C10-C30 alkyl radicals such as alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent; such as polymers derived from 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or polymers derived from 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer;

[0228] (8) acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as polymers formed from from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

[0229] The crosslinking agent may be a monomer comprising the group

[0230] with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated.

[0231] Examples that may be mentioned include polyallyl ethers such as polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.

[0232] Among the above-mentioned polymers, mention may be made, for example, of the products marketed by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI, Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol 1382, and again, for example, Pemulen TRI, and the product marketed by the company SEPC under the name Coatex SX.

[0233] Among the anionic amphiphilic fatty chain polymers, mention may also be made, for example, of the ethoxylated copolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / alkyl dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate marketed under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.

[0234] The cationic amphiphilic (cc) polymers used are, for example, chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising amino side groups.

[0235] The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, for example, chosen from

[0236] quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and

[0237] quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Quaternized and non-quaternized polyacrylates having amino side groups have, for example, hydrophobic groups such as Steareth 20 (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)) and (Cio-C3o) alkyl itaconate PEG-20.

[0239] The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses, for example, contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0240] The aryl radicals are, for example, chosen from the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl and anthryl groups.

[0241] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses comprising C8-C30 fatty chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl), and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C[8] alkyl) marketed by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl), and Crodacel QS (C[8] alkyl) marketed by the company Croda.

[0242] Examples of polyacrylates with amino side chains are polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 and Structure Plus from National Starch.

[0243] Among the amphoteric amphiphilic (dd) polymers comprising at least one unit hydrophilic and at least one fatty chain unit, examples include methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymers, in which the alkyl radical is, for example, a stearyl radical.

[0244] The associative thickeners of the compositions may have, for example, in solution or in dispersion at a concentration of 1% of active material in water, a viscosity, measured using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer at 25°C, greater than 0.1 cps and moreover, for example, greater than 0.2 cps, at a shear rate of 200 s1.

[0245] The associative thickener may be an associative polymeric thickener, preferably an associative polyurethane thickener.

[0246] The associative polyurethane thickener may be cationic or non-ionic.

[0247] Among the associative polyurethane thickeners, mention may be made of associative polyurethane derivatives such as those obtained by polymerization: approximately 20 to 70% by weight of a carboxylic acid containing α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, approximately 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the product of the reaction of a monohydroxylated surfactant with a monoisocyanate with monoethylenic unsaturation:

[0248] Analogues are described in particular in EP 173109 and more particularly in Example 3 of the latter. More precisely, this polymer is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethylmetisopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 EO) in 25% aqueous dispersion. This product is supplied under the reference VISCOPHOBE DB1000 by the company AMERCHOL.

[0249] Cationic associative polyurethane thickeners, the family of which has been described by the applicant in French patent application No. 0009609, are also suitable.They may be represented more particularly by the following general formula (A): RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R' (A) in which: R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X', identical or different, represent a group containing an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L"; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent a group with an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and, in particular, between 1 and 25; n, m and p are each independently of one another between 0 and 1000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0250] In a very advantageous embodiment, the only hydrophobic groups of These polyurethanes have the R and R' groups at the end of the chain.

[0251] According to a first preferred embodiment, the associative polyurethane thickener corresponds to formula (A) in which R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L", n and p are between 1 and 1000, and L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated in formula (A).

[0252] According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane thickener corresponds to formula (A) in which R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L", n and p are equal to 0, and L, L', L", Y and m have the meaning in formula (A) indicated above.

[0253] The fact that n and p are equal to 0 means that these polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functional groups at the end of the chain, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functional groups formed by alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0254] According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane thickener corresponds to formula (A) wherein R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a quaternary amine-containing group, n and p are zero, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated in formula (A).

[0255] The number-average molecular weight of cationic associative polyurethane thickeners is usually between 400 and 500,000, in particular between 1,000 and 400,000, and ideally between 1,000 and 300,000 g / mol.

[0256] When X and / or X' denote a group containing a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas: ____ for X Ri

[0257] in which:

[0258] R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

[0259] R 1 and R 3, which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 3 o alkenyl or alkyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;

[0260] A is a physiologically acceptable counterion.

[0261] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:

[0262] in which:

[0263] Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- and

[0264] R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

[0265] The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas:

[0266] or or

[0267] or or

[0268]

[0269]

[0270]

[0271]

[0272]

[0273] or or in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above; R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above; Rio represents a linear or branched alkylene group, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; A is a physiologically acceptable counterion. With respect to the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group. Examples that may be mentioned, when not polymeric, are ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol. According to a preferred embodiment, in the case of a hydrophilic polymer, examples of which are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and, in particular, a polyethylene oxide or a polypropylene oxide.

[0274] The cationic associative polyurethane thickeners of formula (A) are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds having functional groups containing a labile hydrogen. The functional groups containing a labile hydrogen may be alcohol functional groups, primary or secondary amine functional groups or thiol functional groups which, after reaction with the diisocyanate functional groups, give respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention covers these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas and their copolymers.

[0275] A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a compound containing at least one unit containing an amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, i.e. according to a preferred embodiment, this compound contains two labile hydrogen atoms carried, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol functional group. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0276] As indicated above, this compound may contain more than one unit containing an amine functional group. It is then a polymer carrying a repetition of the unit containing an amine functional group.

[0277] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas:

[0278] HZ-(P) n -ZH, or HZ-(P') p -ZH, wherein Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0279] Examples of compounds containing an amine functional group include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0280] The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula O=C=NR 4 -N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0281] Examples that may be mentioned include methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

[0282] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (A).

[0283] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group containing a labile hydrogen, for example, a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functional group.

[0284] For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as in particular stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol and decyl alcohol. When this compound contains a polymer chain, it may be, for example, a hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0285] The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (A) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound containing at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0286] The cationic associative polyurethane thickener may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

[0287] The functional groups containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functional groups. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the end of the chain by one of these functional groups containing a labile hydrogen.

[0288] By way of example, when not polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0289] In the case of a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and, in particular, a polyethylene oxide or a polypropylene oxide.

[0290] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (A) is optional. Indeed, units containing a quaternary or protonated amine functional group may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethane thickeners which contain such a group are nevertheless preferred.

[0291] The associative polyurethane thickener used in the present invention may also be non-ionic, including non-ionic polyurethane polyethers. The non-ionic polyurethane polyethers may have both at least one hydrophilic fragment and at least one hydrophobic fragment.

[0292] More particularly, said polymers may comprise in their chain both hydrophilic sequences, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic bonds alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic bonds.

[0293] Preferably, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible to envisage one or more pendant chains. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0294] Polyether polyurethanes can be polyblocks, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (polyblock copolymers for example). These same polymers can also be in the form of grafted units or be star-shaped.

[0295] The associative polyurethane thickener can form a network in water in which the hydrophobic portion links quasi-micelles.

[0296] Therefore, associative polyurethane thickeners can increase the viscosity or consistency of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, after application of the composition according to the present invention, the original elasticity of the composition can be recovered quickly.

[0297] Non-ionic fatty chain polyether-polyurethanes may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.

[0298] Nonionic polyether polyurethanes have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0299] By extension, those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic sequences are also included among the non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes with a hydrophobic chain.

[0300] As an example of non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes with a hydrophobic chain which can be used in the present invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group marketed by the company RHEOX or even Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.

[0301] Mention may also be made of the ELFACOS T210® product with a C12-C14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212® product containing a C18 alkyl chain marketed by AKZO.

[0302] ROHM & HAAS's DW 1206B® product with a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, marketed at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0303] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 marketed by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J marketed by the company ROHM & HAAS.

[0304] The polyether-polyurethanes described above which can be used can also be chosen from those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen-Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0305] Like the polyether-polyurethanes described above, mention may be made of polyurethane-polyethers comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one of the hydrophobic blocks containing at least one sequence chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences and aromatic sequences.

[0306] It is preferable that the polyurethane-polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, and where the hydrocarbon chains are chosen from pendant chains and chains at the end of a hydrophilic block chain.

[0307] According to a particular form of the present invention, a polyurethane / polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate will be used.

[0308] Such polyurethanes / polyethers are notably marketed by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100 / HDI copolymer).

[0309] According to another particular form of the present invention, a polyurethane / polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate will be used.

[0310] Such polyurethanes / polyethers are notably marketed by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

[0311] Aculyn 46® having the INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer).

[0312] Aculyn 44® (PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer).

[0313] As associative polyurethanes, it is preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):

[0314] R1-{(O-R2)k-OCONH-R3[-NHCOO-(R4-O)n-R5]h]m (1)

[0315] wherein R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, R2 and R4 independently represent alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be the same as or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group, which may optionally have a urethane linkage, R5 represents a branched chain or secondary hydrocarbon group, m represents a number of at least 2, h represents a number of at least 1, k represents a number between 1 and 500, and n represents a number between 1 and 200.

[0316] The hydrophobic modified polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) above is obtained, for example, by reacting at least one polyether polyol represented by the formula R'-[(O-R2)k-OH]m, with at least one polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3-(NCO)h+i, and at least one monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R4-O)n-R5.

[0317] In such cases, R1 to R5 in the general formula (1) are determined by the compounds RR'-[(O-R2)k-OH]m, R3-(NCO)h+i and HO-(R4-O)n-R5. The charge ratios between the three compounds are not particularly limited and should preferably be such that the ratio of the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate to the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is selected in the range of NCO / OH between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1.

[0318] The polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R'-[(O-R2)k-OH]m and which can be preferably used for obtaining the associative thickener represented by the general formula (1) can be obtained by addition polymerization of an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.

[0319] The polyols should preferably be di- to octahydric polyols. Examples of di- to octahydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol and neopentyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxy isobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, pentamethylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane and trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentaerythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol and 1,3,4,5-hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol and xylitol;hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol and iditol and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose. ;

[0320] Furthermore, R2 is determined by the alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like, which is subjected to the addition. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, an alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide, will be preferred.

[0321] The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like to be subjected to addition may be subjected to a single polymerization, or a random polymerization, or a block polymerization of at least two elements. The procedure for the addition may be a conventional procedure. Furthermore, the degree of polymerization k may be selected in the range of 0 to 1000, preferably in the range of 1 to 500, and more preferably in the range of 10 to 200. Furthermore, the ratio of the ethylene group occupying R2 should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R2. In such cases, the associative thickener suitable for the purposes of the present invention is obtained.

[0322] Furthermore, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R'-[(O-R2)k-OH]m should preferably be selected in the range of 500 to 100,000, and more preferably should be selected in the range of 1,000 to 50,000.

[0323] The polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3-(NCO)h+i and which can be preferably used for obtaining the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.

[0324] Similarly, it is possible to use dimers and trimers (isocyanurate bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use a biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.

[0325] In addition, it is possible to employ a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by a reaction of the above-mentioned polyisocyanate compound and a polyol. As the polyol, di- to octahydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferable. In cases where a trihydric or higher polyisocyanate is used as the polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3-(NCO)n+i, it is preferable to employ the above-mentioned polyisocyanate having the urethane bond.

[0326] The polyether monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R4-O)n-R5 and which can be preferably used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the polyether monoalcohol is a polyether of a straight-chain, branched-chain or secondary monohydric alcohol. The polyether monoalcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the straight-chain, branched-chain or secondary monohydric alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, etc.

[0327] The compound represented by general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90°C for 1 to 3 hours and thereby causing a reaction in the same manner as in the ordinary reaction of a polyether and an isocyanate.

[0328] As a compound represented by general formula (1), polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is preferable. Polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also called PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer.

[0329] According to the present invention, it is preferable that the associative polyurethane thickener is chosen from the Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer marketed by the company Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, the PEG-240 / HDI Bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer marketed by the company Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and their mixtures.

[0330] (ii) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series. Mention may be made of carbomer, which is an acrylic acid homopolymer crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of propylene, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Lubrizol or the products marketed under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A.

[0331] (iii) The crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate may be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylate of ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 38% active ingredient marketed, for example, under the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex and crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 28% active ingredient marketed under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas. Crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate include an aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient marketed under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON.

[0332] (iv) Among the non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and / or amide type, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names: Cyanamer P250 from the company Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C from the company US Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 from the company Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer) and BPA 500 from the company Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).

[0333] (v) Ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned include the product com marketed under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.

[0334] The copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide include the product marketed under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 marketed by the company Hoechst (which are described and prepared in documents FR-2,416,723, US Patent No. 2,798,053 and US Patent No. 2,923,692)

[0335] (vi) The polysaccharides are, for example, selected from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from plants such as yellow peas and from tubers, such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (for example methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitins, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum ghattis, gum karaya, carob gums,galacto-mannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), sclerotium gum and xanthan gums and mixtures thereof.

[0336] For example, the polysaccharides which can be used are chosen from those described, for example, in, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pages 896-900, and Volume 15, pages 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pages 240-328, 1980 and in “Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives,” edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academie Press Inc., the contents of these three publications being fully incorporated by reference.

[0337] For example, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives can be used.

[0338] Among the starches that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, may vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0339] The starch molecules used may have a botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea starches.

[0340] Starches generally appear in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, with an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0341] The starches may optionally be C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated or C1-C6 acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0342] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the products offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) marketed by the company AVEBE, can also be used.

[0343] Guar gums may or may not be modified.

[0344] Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products marketed under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall.

[0345] Non-ionic modified guar gums are, for example, modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0346] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0347] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0348] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0349] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are marketed, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) or under the name Ga-lactasol 4H 4FD2 by the company Aqualon.

[0350] Among the celluloses and cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, use is made, for example, of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, as well as hydrophobized hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Mention may be made of the products marketed under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Aqualon.

[0351] (vii) The fatty alcohols are, for example, selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0352] Furthermore, the thickener (e) may be chosen from (viii) AMPS (co)polymers.

[0353] AMPS (co)polymer means a water-soluble or water-dispersible, crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer of acrylamido- 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), or a copolymer of AMPS monomer and at least one comonomer.

[0354] Thus, the AMPS (co)polymer may be a water-soluble or water-dispersible, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer.

[0355] The AMPS (co)polymer may preferably be totally neutralized or almost totally neutralized, i.e. neutralized to at least 90%.

[0356] AMPS (co)polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0357] When the AMPS polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0358] As crosslinking agents, mention may be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives or mixtures of these compounds.

[0359] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0360] The AMPS polymers in accordance with the present invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:

[0361] either

[0362] “homopolymers” polymerized from only AMPS monomers and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

[0363] either

[0364] “copolymers” polymerized from AMPS and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above.

[0365] When said copolymers are polymerized from hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation, these monomers may not contain any fatty chain and are preferably present in small quantities. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

[0366] Thus, the AMPS polymer can be chosen from the group consisting of:

[0367] (i) crosslinked or non-crosslinked AMPS homopolymers;

[0368] (ii) crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more hydrophilic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation or hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation not comprising a fatty chain and

[0369] (iii) mixtures thereof.

[0370] The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution having a maximum light transmission value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably at least 70%.

[0371] The “homopolymers” according to the present invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be prepared according to a preparation process comprising the following steps:

[0372] (a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or water and tert-butanol;

[0373] (b) the solution or dispersion of the monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized by one or several mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;

[0374] (c) the crosslinking monomer(s) is(are) added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b) and

[0375] (d) a standard free radical polymerization is carried out in the presence free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitates in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.

[0376] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the present invention may be polymerized from water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.

[0377] Water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or non-ionic.

[0378] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned as examples:

[0379] (meth)acrylic acid,

[0380] styrene sulfonic acid,

[0381] vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

[0382] vinylphosphonic acid,

[0383] maleic acid,

[0384] itaconic acid,

[0385] crotonic acid,

[0386] the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

[0387] in which:

[0388] R! is H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0389] Xi is selected from:

[0390] alkyl ethers of type -OR2, R2 being a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

[0391] Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite by way of example:

[0392] (meth)acrylamide,

[0393] N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

[0394] N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

[0395] maleic anhydride,

[0396] vinylamine,

[0397] N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

[0398] vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,

[0399] the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

[0400] in which:

[0401] R15 is H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0402] X2 is selected from:

[0403] alkyl ethers of type -ORi6 in which Ri6 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl group (-OH); ether.

[0404] Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

[0405] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without fatty chain, we can cite as an example:

[0406] styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vi-nyltoluene,

[0407] vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0408] vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbons;

[0409] acrylonitrile,

[0410] caprolactone,

[0411] vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,

[0412] silicone derivatives, which provide silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides,

[0413] the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

[0414] in which:

[0415] R23 is H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

[0416] X3 is selected from:

[0417] alkyl ethers of type -OR24 in which R24 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0418] Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0419] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the present invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol and even better still from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0420] As examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer of the commercial product Simulgel 800 (INCI name: Sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).

[0421] As examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0422] crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as the copolymer in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or the copolymer in the commercial product marketed under the brand name Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by SEPPIC;

[0423] copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the copolymer in the commercial product marketed under the name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0424] copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate such as, for example, the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer of the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate-80); and

[0425] copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as, for example, the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer of the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60).

[0426] Thus, it may be preferable for the AMPS polymer to be chosen from the group consisting of:

[0427] a crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer (acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate);

[0428] a copolymer of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide;

[0429] a copolymer of AMPS and sodium acrylate (sodium acrylate copolymer / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate);

[0430] a copolymer of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate and

[0431] a mixture of these.

[0432] When the AMPS monomers are copolymerized with fatty chain ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers (e.g. C6-C5o chain), the resulting polymer is amphiphilic, i.e. it contains both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part.

[0433] The amphiphilic AMPS copolymers may further contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their [3-substituted] alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0434] Suitable amphiphilic polymers are, for example, those obtained from AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer containing at least one hydrophobic portion having from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and most preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0435] Examples of these copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, in US Patent No. 5,089,578 in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

[0436] “Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures” “Self-assembled amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures” - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;

[0437] “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering » » Formation of "Miscelle of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10-3694-3704";

[0438]

[0439]

[0440]

[0441] “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: effects of salt on rheological behavior:” (“Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332”; “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. (Stimulus-responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym.) Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221”. The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from acrylates, alkyl acrylates, acrylamides and alkylacrylamides of the following formula (III): CH.--C — £ - (NEITHER) O=C FL in which R 1 and R 3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a substantially linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R 2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, better still 6 to 18 carbon atoms and very particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and preferably varies from 0 to 100.

[0442] The radical R2 is preferably chosen from substantially linear C6-Ci8 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, n-octadecyl) or branched or cyclic C6-Ci8 alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane (Ci2) or adamantane (Cio)) perfluorinated C6-Ci8 alkyl radicals (for example, the group of formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the radical cho- esteryl (C27) or a cholesterol ester residue such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Substantially linear alkyl radicals are among these radicals, the most preferred being the n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl radical, and mixtures thereof.

[0443] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monomer of formula (III) contains at least one alkylene oxide unit (x>1), preferably several alkylene oxide units (x>1) constituting a polyoxyalkylenated chain. The polyoxyalkylenated chain preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units, better still consists of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylenated units (or number of moles of alkylene oxide) preferably varies from 3 to 100, better still from 3 to 50 and even better still from 7 to 25.

[0444] Suitable polymers include, for example,

[0445] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked and neutralized or standardized copolymers containing from 15 to 60 % by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-Ci6)(alkylmeth)acrylate units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-750 899; and

[0446] - terpolymers containing from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 % by moles of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 % by moles of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in the US patent.

[0447] Suitable amphiphilic polymers include, for example,

[0448] - copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and n-dodecyl methacrylate, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl, and

[0449] - copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, uncrosslinked and crosslinked, such as those described in Morishima's articles cited above.

[0450] Preferably, the copolymers consist of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) units of the following formula (IV): J CH, ('V) OZ NH--C—CH,SO,'X+ £ J ch3

[0451] in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, a metal cation alkaline earth or ammonium ion, and units of formula (V) following: O=C o—^ch2-ch2-o —-r 4 X

[0452] in which x denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50, better still from 7 to 25; R1 has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (I) and R4 denotes a substantially linear or branched C6-C22 alkyl, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl.

[0453] Particularly preferred amphiphilic polymers of this type are those for which x = 25, R 1 denotes methyl and R 4 represents n-dodecyl; they are described in the Morishima articles mentioned above. Other preferred polymers are those for which x = 8 or 25, R 1 denotes methyl and R 4 represents (C 16 ) n-hexadecyl, (C 18 ) n-octadecyl or (C 12 ) n-dodecyl or mixtures thereof.

[0454] Polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium are preferred.

[0455] The preferred amphiphilic polymers used in the composition in accordance with the present invention can be obtained according to conventional methods of radical polymerization in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, etc., peroxidized inorganic compounds such as potassium or ammonium persulfate or H2O2, optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

[0456] These amphiphilic polymers are preferably obtained by radical polymerization in a tert-butanol medium from which they precipitate. Thanks to precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a particularly favorable particle size distribution of the polymer particles.

[0457] The reaction can be carried out at a temperature between 0 and 150°C, preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, preferably under nitrogen.

[0458] According to this method, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts can be polymerized with a (meth)acrylic acid ester and

[0459] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C10-C18 with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-080 from the company CLARIANT),

[0460] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in Cn with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-080 from the company CLARIANT),

[0461] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in Cn with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-070 from the company CLARIANT),

[0462] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C12-C14 with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-070 from the company CLARIANT),

[0463] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C12-C14 with 9 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-090 from the company CLARIANT),

[0464] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C12-C14 with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-110 from the company CLARIANT),

[0465] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C16-C18 with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-080 from the company CLARIANT),

[0466] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C16-C18 with 15 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-150 from the company CLARIANT),

[0467] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C16-C18 with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® Tl 10 from the company CLARIANT),

[0468] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C16-C18 with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-200 from the company CLARIANT),

[0469] of an oxyethylenated alcohol in C16-C18 with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-250 from the company CLARIANT),

[0470] of a C18-C22 oxyethylenated alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide and / or of a C16-C18 oxyethylenated alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0471] The concentration in mol% of the units of formula (IV) and the units of formula (V) in the polymers according to the present invention varies according to the desired cosmetic application and the rheological properties sought for the formulation. It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.

[0472] Preferably, for the most hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (IV) or (V) varies from 50.1 to 99.9%, better still from 70 to 95%, and even better still from 80 to 90%.

[0473] Preferably, for polymers with low hydrophobicity, the molar proportion of units of formula (IV) or (V) varies from 0.1 to 50%, better still from 5 to 25%, and even better still from 10 to 20%.

[0474] The distribution of monomers in the polymers of the present invention may be, for example, alternating, sequenced (including multi-sequenced) or random.

[0475] As hydrophobic modified polymers of this type, mention may in particular be made of the copolymer of AMPS and of C12-C14 ethoxylated alkyl methacrylate (non-copolymer crosslinked obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 Methacrylate Copolymer) marketed under the name Aristoflex LNC by Clariant, and the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) (crosslinked copolymer with triacrylate obtained from Genapol trimethylolpropane T-250 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate crosspolymer) marketed under the name Aristoflex HMS by Clariant.

[0476] It is preferable that the thickener (e) is chosen from polysaccharide, AMPS (co)polymer and a mixture thereof.

[0477] It is even better that the thickener (e) is selected from xanthan gum, amphiphilic AMPS copolymers such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and a mixture thereof.

[0478] The amount of the thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0479] The amount of the thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0480] The amount of the thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0481] [Powder]

[0482] The composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one powder. Two or more powders may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of powder or a combination of different types of powders may be used.

[0483] According to the present invention, the powder (f) is insoluble in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water.

[0484] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “insoluble” powder means a powder whose solubility in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water at 25°C is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and, even better, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder, and preferably without solubility.

[0485] The powder (f) is in the form of one or more particles.

[0486] The diameter of the powder (f) is not limited. The average particle size of the powder (f) is preferably 10 nm or more, more preferably 50 nm or more, and even more preferably 100 nm or more, and is preferably 1000 pm or less, more preferably 500 pm or less, and even more preferably 300 pm or less. Thus, the powder (f) may have an average particle size of 10 nm to 1000 pm, preferably 50 nm to 500 pm and, better still, from 100 nm to 300 pm.

[0487] It is preferable that the average particle size of the powder (f) is 0.1 pm or more, more preferably 0.3 pm or more, and even more preferably 0.5 pm or more.

[0488] It is preferable that the average particle size of the powder (f) is 15 pm or less, more preferably 12 pm or less, and even more preferably 10 pm or less.

[0489] The average particle size may be a number average particle size which may be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.

[0490] The powder (f) is preferably in the form of a solid.

[0491] The shape of the powder (f) is not limited. The powder (f) may be in the form of a sphere, a plate, etc. The powder (f) may be hollow or porous.

[0492] The powder (f) can be chosen from pigments, fillers and their mixtures.

[0493] (Pigment)

[0494] By “pigments” is meant white or colored and mineral or organic particles insoluble in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium and intended to color and / or opacify the film obtained.

[0495] The pigments preferably have an absorption ranging from 380 to 780 nm, and in at least one embodiment, an absorption with a maximum in this absorption range.

[0496] The pigments may be organic pigments. As used herein, the term "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may be selected, for example, from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalene compounds.

[0497] The at least one organic pigment may be chosen from, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470, as well as the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or derivatives phenolics such as. described, for example, in French patent ri 2,679,771.

[0498] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described, for example, in European Patent No. 1 184 426. These composite pigments may consist, for example, of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0499] Other examples include pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products marketed by the company Hoechst under the names: Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710); Cosmenyl Yellow G: Pigment Yellow 1 (CI 11680); Cosmenyl Orange GR: Pigment Orange 43 (CI 71105); Cosmenyl Red R: Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Cosmenyl Violet RL: Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Pigment Blue 15.1 (CI 74160); Cosmenyl Green GG: Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260) and Cosmenyl Black R: Pigment Black 7 (CI 77266).

[0500] The at least one pigment may also be selected from lakes. As used herein, the term "lake" refers to insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the resulting complex or compound remaining insoluble during use.

[0501] Inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0502] Non-limiting examples of organic colorants include cochineal carmine and products known as: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053) and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0503] A further non-limiting example of a lake is the product known as: D&C Red 7 (IC 15 850:1).

[0504] The at least one pigment may also be a special effect pigment. As used herein, the term "special effect pigments" refers to pigments that generally create a non-uniform colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy and / or lightness) that changes depending on viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angle, etc.). They thus contrast with white or colored pigments that provide a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

[0505] There are two types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic and thermochromic pigments, and those with high refractive index, such as pearls and glitter.

[0506] The at least one pigment may also be chosen from interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), and interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek).

[0507] Special effect pigments may also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, and thermochromic pigments.

[0508] The pigment may also be an inorganic pigment, in a preferred embodiment. As used herein, the term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Preferably, the inorganic pigments comprise at least one inorganic material. Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include metal oxides, particularly transition metal oxides, such as zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, iron oxides, zinc oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO and ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 and ZnS.

[0509] The pigment may also be a pearlescent pigment.

[0510] By "pearlescent pigments", which can also be called "mother-of-pearl" or "pearlescent pigments", we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthesized alternatively and which have a color effect by optical interference.

[0511] The pearlescent pigment may have a particle size of 15 pm or less, preferably 12 pm or less and more preferably 10 pm or less and / or may have a colored sheen.

[0512] It may be preferable that the pearlescent pigment has a particle size of 1 pm or more, preferably 3 pm or more and more preferably 5 pm or more.

[0513] The particle size here can be expressed as the volume average diameter (D[0.5]).

[0514] The pearl pigment may have a reflection with a color such as white, blue, yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and copper.

[0515] It may be preferable that the pearlescent pigment may exhibit a white color. For example, the pearlescent pigment may exhibit a white color on a white background.

[0516] It may also be preferable for the pearlescent pigment to have a blue sheen. For example, the pearlescent pigment may exhibit a blue sheen against a black background. Herein, the term "blue" refers to visible light with a wavelength of about 450 to about 495 nm.

[0517] The pearl pigment with a blue reflection can contribute to anti-yellowing. It can therefore be interesting for covering color imperfections on a keratinous material, such as spots on the skin.

[0518] The pearlescent pigment with limited particle size and colored reflection can contribute to the correction of the color of a keratin material such as skin by mixing the colored reflection with the original color of the keratin material, and with the natural appearance. It should be noted that the use of conventional pearlescent pigments with a particle size greater than 15 pm may not be able to sufficiently cover the keratin material, and cannot provide sufficient shine but provides a shiny appearance and an unnatural finish.

[0519] The pearlescent pigment may have any shape. For example, it is possible to use a pearlescent pigment in plate form with an aspect ratio of at least 5, preferably greater than 10, more preferably greater than 20, and even more preferably greater than 50. The aspect ratio may be determined by the average thickness and the average length according to the following formula: aspect ratio = length / thickness.

[0520] If a plate-shaped particle is used for the pearlescent pigment, it is preferable that the plate-shaped particle has a length of 15 pm or less, preferably 12 pm or less, and more preferably 10 pm or less.

[0521] As an example of a pearlescent pigment, mention may be made of nacres such as a mica coated with titanium (oxide) or bismuth oxychloride, and a mica coated with titanium (oxide) and iron oxide(s), a mica coated with titanium (oxide) and chromium oxide(s), and mixtures thereof. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0522] It may be preferable that the pearlescent pigment comprises mica and a metal oxide, preferably titanium oxide and / or tin oxide.

[0523] Again, as examples of pearlescent pigment, particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide may also be mentioned.

[0524] (Charge)

[0525] By "filler" is meant a non-colored particle, solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature. Of mineral or organic nature, the fillers make it possible to confer firmness to the composition according to the present invention and / or softness and homogeneity to the makeup which can be formed by the composition.

[0526] The filler may be selected from mineral and organic fillers. When the fillers are organic fillers, they are polymeric organic fillers. The filler may be particles of any shape, for example, platelet, spherical and oblong, regardless of their crystallographic shape (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic).

[0527] The fillers usable in the composition according to the present invention may consist of various inorganic and / or organic materials, and may include, but are not limited to, the following elements: titanium dioxide; talc; natural or synthetic mica; alumina; aluminosilicate; calcium and sodium borosilicate; calcium aluminum borosilicate; silica (or silicon dioxide); kaolin or other insoluble silicates such as clays; polyamide powders (Nylon®), poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders; tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), powdered starch; boron nitride; acrylic acid polymer powders; silicone resin microbeads such as, for example, “Tospearls®” from the company Toshiba; bismuth oxychlorides; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite;hollow silica microspheres such as “Silica Beads SB 700®” and “Silica Beads SB 700®” from Maprecos, “Sunspheres H-33®” and “Sunspheres H-51®” from Asahi Glass; acrylic polymer microspheres such as those made of crosslinked acrylate copolymer “Polytrap 6603®” from RP.;

[0528] Scherrer and those made of polymethyl methacrylate “Micropearl M100®” from the company SEPPIC; polyurea powders; polyurethane powders such as the powder of copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone marketed under the name “Plastic Powder D-400®” by the company Toshiki; glass or ceramic microcapsules; microcapsules of polymers or copolymers of acrylate or methyl methacrylate, or copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile such as, for example, “Expancel®” from the company Expancel; powders of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers such as those marketed under the name “KSP100®” by the company Shinetsu Chemical; porous cellulose beads such as those sold under the name Cellulose Beads USF® by the company Daito Kasei and their mixtures.

[0529] Examples of crystalline silicas include quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, and stishovite. Examples of microcrystalline silicas include diatomite.

[0530] Among the non-crystalline forms that can be used are vitreous silica and other types of amorphous silicas such as colloidal silicas, silica gels, precipitated silicas and fumed silicas, for example, aerosils, and pyrogenic silicas. A porous silica such as an aerogel (silica silylate) is preferred.

[0531] In one embodiment of the present invention, the powder may comprise at least one inorganic material selected from the group consisting of mica, mica synthetic, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, titanium oxide, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clay, synthetic clay, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

[0532] In another embodiment of the present invention, the powder may comprise at least one organic material selected from the group consisting of polyurea, melamine-formaldehyde condensate, urea-formaldehyde condensate, aminoplast, polyurethane, polyacrylate, polyphosphate, polystyrene, polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, polysaccharide, silicone, silicone resin, protein, modified cellulose and gum.

[0533] It is preferable that the powder (f) comprises at least one powder selected from the group consisting of boron nitride, glass (e.g., sodium borosilicate, sodium calcium borosilicate, aluminum calcium borosilicate), titanium dioxide (and) mica, and a mixture thereof.

[0534] If the powder (f) comprises boron nitride, it may have a refractive index of 1.6 or more, preferably between 1.6 and 2.2. In a preferred embodiment, the powder (f) comprising boron nitride may have an average particle size of between 1 pm and 10 pm, and in particular between 1 pm and 6 pm.

[0535] Examples of commercial boron nitride products include: Saint Gobains Ceramics PUHP3008 (average particle size 6 pm), Saint Gobains Ceramics PUHP1030L (average particle size 3 pm), Momentive Performance Materials Softouch BN CC6058 powder (average particle size 5-15 pm), or mixtures thereof.

[0536] If the powder (f) comprises glass such as sodium borosilicate, sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, it may be in the form of a microsphere (hollow particle).

[0537] Examples of commercial glass microsphere products useful in the present invention include hollow calcium aluminum borosilicate microspheres (commercially available from Presperse Inc. under the trade name LUXSIL®), sodium borosilicate particles (commercially available from PQ Corporation under the trade name Q-CEL 570), and hollow calcium / sodium borosilicate microspheres (commercially available from 3M under the trade names ES 22 and 1K), calcium / sodium borosilicate microspheres (commercially available from 3M under the trade name Scotchlite™ K20 product commercial).

[0538] If the powder (f) comprises titanium dioxide (and) mica, it may be a pearlescent pigment (pearls) or a pearlescent pigment. In other words, the titanium dioxide (and) mica may be a mica coated with at least titanium dioxide.

[0539] Examples of titanium dioxide (and) mica include Ronaflair Balance Red / Blue / Gold / Green, and Timiron Silk Blue / Green / Red / Gold marketed by Merck, Sunshine Soft Fine Gold / Red / Violet / Blue / Green marketed by Sun Chemical, Helios R10Y / R / B / G marketed by Topy, and Flamenco Summit Aqua series such as FLAMENCO SUMMIT RED R30D, FLAMENCO SUMMIT BLUE B30DC marketed by BASF.

[0540] The amount of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0541] The amount of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0542] The amount of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0543] [Water]

[0544] The composition according to the present invention comprises (g) water.

[0545] The amount (g) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and, more preferably, 55% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0546] On the other hand, the amount (g) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less and, more preferably, 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0547] The quantity (g) of water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 45 to 90% by weight, preferably from 50 to 85% by weight, better still from 55 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0548] [Twinned surfactants]

[0549] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one twinned surfactant. Only one type of twinned surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of twinned surfactants may be used in combination.

[0550] The (h) twinned surfactant or dimeric surfactants used in the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the different chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the publications following:

[0551] Milton J. Rosen, (Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups) magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 113, December 1998, pages 49-55 and

[0552] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, No. 7, pp. 67-70.

[0553] The (h) twinned surfactant may be chosen from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (it may hereinafter be referred to as the “amide compound”). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): y. (A) CH3(CH2)j-CONH ÇH ko NH QH—Y' (çty4 NH (CH^a CH3(CH2)r-COHH CH Y

[0554] where

[0555] Y' independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,

[0556] j 1, kl, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and

[0557] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, even better, from 10 at 12.

[0558] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j 1 = j2 = 0, and kl=k2 = 2.

[0559] Better still, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2 and L = 10.

[0560] The amide compound may be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain N-acyl acid amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in one or more inert organic solvents such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5°C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C and, more preferably, from 0°C to 60°C.

[0561] As amide compounds, mention may be made of dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium, di-myristoylglutamide lysine sodium and distearoylglutamide lysine sodium.

[0562] Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium is particularly preferable. Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. in the form of an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution or under the name Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. in the form of a mixture of dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium and butylene glycol.

[0563] In another embodiment, the (h) geminal surfactants may also correspond to the following formula (I):

[0564] where:

[0565] R1 and R3 represent, independently of one another, an alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

[0566] R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0567] X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group a -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)b Z, in which:

[0568] Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion or an ammonium or alkanolammonium ion;

[0569] a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25 and

[0570] n varies from 1 to 10.

[0571] The twinned surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the Ri-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprise from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represent a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).

[0572] Furthermore, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value which varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the —SO3M group, M being preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.

[0573] The spacer R2 is advantageously made up of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

[0574] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate PEG-15, having the following structure: O It X(PEG-15)-8(¾ Na cocovl—C—N I CIL I*EYLASH! ~ cocoyl—CN ^pEG. 15) —S03Na O

[0575] it being understood that PEG represents the CH2CH2O group and that “cocoyl” represents the coconut fatty acid residue.

[0576] This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.

[0577] Preferably, the twinned surfactant according to the present invention can be used in a mixture with other surfactants, and, in particular, in a mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 (preferably C14-C20) fatty acid such as a stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 (preferably C14-C20) fatty acid such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

[0578] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sodium sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.

[0579] For example, the twinned surfactant may be used in admixture with other surfactants in the form of products marketed by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:

[0580] Ceralution® H: behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate (INCI name),

[0581] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylation and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and

[0582] Céralution® C: Water, capric / caprylic triglyceride, glycerin, ceteareth-25, sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, sodium lauroyl latylate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben (INCI Name)

[0583] The twinned surfactant represents from 3 to 50% by weight of these mixtures. preferably, the composition comprises, as geminate surfactant, the compound with INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, marketed under the trade name Ceralution® H by the company Sasol.

[0584] The amount of the geminal surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0585] On the other hand, the amount of the twinned surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, even better, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0586] The amount of the twinned surfactant(s) (h) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight and, better still, from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0587] [Polyol]

[0588] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

[0589] The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0590] The polyol may be a C2-C12 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably from 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0591] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0592] The polyol may be selected from glycerins and their derivatives and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, di-glycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.

[0593] The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0594] [Other optional ingredients]

[0595] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other optional ingredients, previously known elsewhere in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, for example, panthenol, perfumes, plant extracts, cationic polymers, etc.

[0596] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Thus, the organic solvent is preferably miscible with water. As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, analogous products and mixtures thereof.

[0597] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0598] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0599] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0600] [Preparation and properties]

[0601] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0602] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer.

[0603] [Shape]

[0604] The composition according to the present invention is in the form of an H / W emulsion.

[0605] The composition according to the present invention comprises dispersed fatty phases, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an H / W gel emulsion or an H / W gel dispersion.

[0606] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention with H / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[0607] [Method and use]

[0608] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin and, even better, a skin peeling composition.

[0609] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratinous material such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or the scalp, by application to the keratinous substance.

[0610] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin material.

[0611] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0612] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used as such as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0613] The care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a conditioner, a sunscreen, etc. EXAMPLES

[0614] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples, which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0615] [Example 1 and comparative examples 1-7]

[0616] The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows:

[0617] (1) mix the ingredients of column A of Table 1 at 70-75°C to form a uniform mixing of phase A;

[0618] (2) add the ingredients of column B of Table 1 to the mixture of phase A to 75-80°C, then homogenize them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A and B) at 70-75°C;

[0619] (3) mix the ingredients of column C of Table 1 at 70-75°C to form a mixing of phase C;

[0620] (4) add the mixture of phase C to the mixture of phases A and B at 70-75°C, then homogenize them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B and C) at 70-75°C and cool the mixture obtained to approximately 30°C; and

[0621] (5) add the ingredient from columns D and E of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B and C at approximately 30°C, then homogenize them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D and E) at approximately 30°C, and cooling the mixture obtained to room temperature.

[0622] The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active ingredients.

[0623] [Tables 1] cd ) Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. Com P- 1 Ex. Com P- 2 Ex. Com p. 3 Ex. Com P- 4 Ex. Com p. 5 Ex. Com p. 6 Ex. Com p.7 Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (HLB: 8) 2 - - - 2 2 2 2 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14) 1.5 - - 3.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 7) - - 3.5 - - - - - Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (HLB: 9) 1.92 - 1.92 1.92 1.92 1.92 1.92 1.92 Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (HLB: 4.5) 0.255 - 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 a) Jojoba esters 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 - 0.57 0.57 0.57 b ) Cetyl alcohol 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 - 0.255 0.255 a) Diisopropyl sebacate 5 5 5 5 - 5 5 5 Isopropyl myristate 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 - 2.2 2.2 2.2 Cetyl palmitate 2 2 2 2 - 2 2 2 b ) Behenyl alcohol 1 1 1 1 1 - 1 1 A c) Salicylic acid 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 Acid phytic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 B e) Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 Xanthan Gum 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.4 . D f) Boron nitride 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Calcium aluminum borosilicate 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Titanium oxide (and) mica 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 A Sodium dilauramidoglutamide Lysine 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 g ) Water 59.10 2 64.77 7 59.10 2 59.10 2 68.87 2 60.35 7 59.80 2 62.50 2 Glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Betaine 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Caprylyl Glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Sodium Hydroxide 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 C Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydro-cinnamate 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 E Biosaccharide Gum-2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Fragrance 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Total Amount (% by weight) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Average HLB (PGFE) 9.8 - 7.6 11.9 9.8 9.8 9.8 9.8 Non-sticky feel Very Good Good Good Very Poor Poor Good Very Poor Smooth feel (non-greasy feel) Very good Good Good Good Very Poor Poor Poor Good Very Poor Poor Temperature stability Very good Very Poor Poor Poor Poor Poor Very Poor Poor Poor Very Poor Good .

[0624] [Evaluations]

[0625] (Non-sticky feeling)

[0626] Five professional panelists evaluated the "non-sticky feel" after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it to their face to evaluate the non-sticky feel after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0627] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0

[0628] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0

[0629] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0

[0630] Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0

[0631] The results are presented in Table 1.

[0632] (Feeling of sweetness)

[0633] Five professional panelists evaluated the “smooth feeling (non-greasy feeling)” when applying the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7. Each panelist took each composition in their hands and then applied it to their face to evaluate the smooth feeling (non-greasy feeling) after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0634] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0

[0635] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0

[0636] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0

[0637] Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0

[0638] The results are presented in Table 1.

[0639] (Temperature stability)

[0640] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was poured into a glass bottle and kept under temperature change conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then studied for the degree of change (color, odor and pH) and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0641] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

[0642] Good: Some changes in color, odor, and pH were observed. However, no separation or creaming or crystallization was observed.

[0643] Bad: Changes in color, odor, and pH were clearly observed. An appearance of separation, creaming, or crystallization was clearly observed.

[0644] Very bad: Changes in color, odor, and pH were noticeably noticed. The aspect of separation, creaming or crystallization has been remarkably noticed.

[0645] The results are presented in Table 1.

[0646] As can be seen from Table 1, the O / W emulsion composition according to the present invention (Example 1) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky feeling, smooth feeling and stability to temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a) to (g) under certain conditions. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, excellent hand feeling and stability for a long time even with temperature changes.

[0647] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which does not comprise ingredient (d) (polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue) exhibited lower temperature stability.

[0648] The composition according to Comparative Examples 2 and 3 which do not satisfy the condition that the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of the ingredients (d) is between 8.0 and 11.5, showed stability at the lower temperature.

[0649] Comparative Example 4 which does not use ingredient (a) (oil) showed very poor cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky feeling, smooth feeling and temperature stability.

[0650] Comparative Example 5 which does not use ingredient (b) (fatty alcohol) showed poor cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky feeling, smooth feeling and temperature stability.

[0651] Comparative Example 6 which does not use ingredient (e) (thickener) showed very poor temperature stability.

[0652] Comparative Example 7 which does not use ingredient (f) (powder) showed very poor non-sticky feel and smoothness.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in the form of an O / W emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxylated acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof; (d) at least one polyglycerolated fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue; (e) at least one thickener; (f) at least one powder chosen from the group consisting of pigments, fillers and mixtures thereof; and (g) water; where the HLB of (d) the polyglycerol fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of (d) the polyglycerol fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is between 8.0 and 11.

5.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the oil (a) is selected from the group consisting of ester oils, triglyceride oils and mixtures thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the fatty alcohol (b) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydroxy acid is selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyglycerolated fatty acid ester (d) having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue has a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, preferably 2 to 8 glycerins and, more preferably, 2 to 6 glycerins.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the thickener (e) is chosen from polysaccharides, AMPS (co)polymers and a mixture thereof.

7. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin material comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of the claims- indications 1 to 6 on keratinous matter.