NEW SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN AND HAIR HYGIENE AND CARE

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition containing: a mixture of surfactants comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their salts, at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their salts, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. This composition is free of surfactant with an isethionic or isethionate acid group and of surfactant with a sulfosuccinic or sulfosuccinate acid group. It is particularly suitable for the hygiene and care of the skin and hair.

Description

Title of the invention: NEW SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE HYGIENE AND CARE OF SKIN AND HAIR FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form, as well as the use of such a composition for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair using such a composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The solid cosmetics market is currently in vogue, and many companies are putting on the market compositions in solid form, more ecological than liquid compositions, for washing and / or caring for the face, body or hair.

[0003] The oldest solid cosmetic compositions, widely used by consumers, are soaps, products resulting from a saponification reaction. Due to their high pH, ​​typically greater than 10, soaps are however very aggressive for the skin, particularly for sensitive skin, and not interesting for hair use.

[0004] Syndets, synthetic surfactants, have more recently emerged as an advantageous alternative to products derived from saponification. Syndets have the cleansing properties of conventional soaps while being less aggressive for the skin. The syndets contained, as foaming agents, in the solid cosmetic compositions currently available on the market are overwhelmingly of the isethionate group type, such as sodium cocoyl isethionate (INCI name), or of the sulfosuccinate group type, such as disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate (INCI name). Such substances, which have good foaming power, are however not of natural origin and / or approved in the Cosmos standard, which defines the criteria that must be respected to guarantee to consumers that their products are genuine organic or natural cosmetics manufactured according to the highest possible sustainability practices.However, consumers are becoming increasingly vigilant about the composition of their cosmetic products. They are therefore looking for products that are free from chemicals, preferring ingredients of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more environmentally friendly.

[0005] The present invention aims to remedy the drawbacks of the solid cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art, in particular the drawbacks set out above, by proposing a solid cosmetic composition having a physiological pH, respectful of the epidermis, which contains a maximum of ingredients of natural origin, and is in particular free of surfactants of the isethionate or sulfosuccinate type, while having a foaming power at least as good, or even better, than that of the compositions of the prior art based on these syndets of non-natural origin.

[0006] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition contains as few ingredients as possible, and that it is suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive skin and atopic skin.

[0007] The invention also aims to ensure that this solid composition has sufficient consistency so that it does not crumble when handled or when stored over time, without however being too soft and too sticky so that its use would be impractical and unpleasant. Statement of the invention

[0008] It has been discovered by the present inventors that such objectives are achieved by implementing a particular combination of syndets of natural origin, this combination unexpectedly exhibiting a particularly high foaming power when brought into contact with water, and making it possible to form solid compositions which are both not very sticky and of low hardness.

[0009] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic composition, particularly suitable for topical application, in particular to the skin and hair. This composition contains: - a mixture of surfactants comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Furthermore, this composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and it is free of surfactant with an isethionate or isethionate acid group and of surfactant with a sulfosuccinic or sulfosuccinate acid group.

[0010] A solid composition is defined in the present description, in a conventional manner in itself, as a composition in the form of a block, not flowing under the effect of its weight. Such a definition excludes in particular powder forms. More particularly, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid composition" means any composition having a hardness (compressive strength) greater than or equal to 20 grams, at room temperature, i.e. at a temperature between 20 and 25°C. This hardness can be measured by penetration, into a matrix of the composition, over a thickness of 8 mm and at a speed of 1 mm / s, of a cylindrical probe of revolution having a diameter of 0.8 cm, and measurement of the penetration force of the probe. Any texture analysis device can be used for this purpose, in particular a TA.XT+ analyzer marketed by the company Stable Micro Systems.

[0011] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention may, for example, be packaged in the form of a bar, pebble, ball, stick or rod, optionally in a refillable packaging device, etc.

[0012] In the present description, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the salt or excipient is suitable for use by contacting with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant odor, color and feel, and does not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition according to the invention.

[0013] In the present description, the term "at least one" means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Thus, the mixture of surfactants of the composition according to the invention contains: - a single anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants, - a single non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or a plurality of such non-ionic surfactants, - and a single anionic surfactant chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants.

[0014] Such a specific mixture of surfactants, all of natural origin, advantageously ensures a high foaming power of the composition when the latter is brought into contact with water, as well as a good quality of the foam formed. Without presuming the phenomena underlying these performances of the mixture of surfactants according to the invention, it can be thought that they are due to a synergy of effect of the particular groups carried by these surfactants, in particular glutamic acid / glutamate, glucoside and lactyl acid / lactylate groups, as well as the chain length of the alkyl radical of the non-ionic surfactant, which contributes to its foaming power. These performances are advantageously obtained in the absence in the composition of the syndets conventionally used in solid cosmetic compositions for hygiene or care of skin and hair, which have the disadvantage of a non-natural origin.

[0015] Thus, the composition according to the invention is free of any surfactant of the isethionic acid or isethionate group type, in particular of a surfactant chosen from acyl isethionic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium cocoyl isethionate. It is also free of any surfactant of the sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinate group type, in particular of a surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate.

[0016] The solid composition according to the invention is furthermore advantageously free of soap, that is to say of substance obtained by saponification, such as the substances with the INCI names sodium palmate, sodium cocoate, sodium olivate, sodium stearate, etc. The pH of the composition according to the invention is thus advantageously close to the physiological pH of the skin. It is preferably between 4.5 and 7, preferably between 4.5 and 6 and preferably between 5 and 6. The pH of the solid composition according to the invention can be measured by dissolving the composition in water, for example at a rate of 1 g of composition in 100 g of water, and measuring the pH of the solution obtained.

[0017] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content of the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 2% by weight, for example less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of water, or contains only trace amounts of water. In variants of the invention, the composition comprises 0.5 to 4% by weight of water, in particular 1 to 3% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The composition according to the invention may also meet one or more of the characteristics described below, implemented in isolation or in each of their technically effective combinations.

[0019] The ingredients contained in the composition according to the invention are preferably of natural origin, thus meeting a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin which has been marking the cosmetics market for several years. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, and preferably at least 95%, of ingredients of natural origin according to the calculation method of the ISO 16128:2017 standard.

[0020] The composition according to the invention is furthermore preferably free of ingredients which are irritating to the skin, drying, at risk of intolerance and / or allergenic. Thus, Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group, i.e. an -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate. Although sulfated surfactants have a particularly interesting foaming power, they are in fact aggressive for the epidermis.

[0021] Preferably, still in order to improve its tolerance by users, the composition according to the invention is furthermore free of acrylate-functional compound and silicone.

[0022] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the content of said mixture of surfactants is between 15 and 50% by weight, preferably between 20 and 40% by weight, in particular between 20 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such ranges of values ​​ensure good foaming power of the composition and good quality of the foam formed, while being associated with a reduced manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0023] The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, in particular between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is preferably between 10 and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is preferably between 2 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is between 50 and 80% by weight, in particular between 60 and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said mixture of surfactants.

[0027] The mass ratio of “non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms / anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts” is preferably between 0.3 and 1, and preferentially between 0.4 and 0.8, in particular between 0.5 and 0.6.

[0028] The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably with 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The group acyl may in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl and oleoyl groups. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acyl glutamic acid may be chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts and ammonium salts. It is for example chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium or magnesium salts, the sodium and potassium salts being particularly preferred in the context of the invention. The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may for example be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the INCI names sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.Several anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may for example contain any mixture of two or more of the compounds listed above. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0029] The non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from the compounds with the INCI names octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside. Several non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may for example contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds (octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0030] The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably chosen from acyl lactylic acids whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably with 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group may in particular be chosen from the caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl and oleoyl groups. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acyl lactylic acid may be chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts and ammonium salts. It is for example chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium or magnesium salts, the sodium and potassium salts being particularly preferred in the context of the invention.The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cos- salts. cosmetically acceptable are for example chosen from the compounds with INCI names sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium isostearoyl lactylate. Several anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may for example contain a mixture of sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium stearoyl lactylate. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0031] Generally, the composition according to the invention preferably contains as few surfactants as possible. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises no more than 6 surfactants, preferably no more than 5 surfactants, more preferably no more than 4 surfactants and preferentially 3 surfactants. As indicated above, a high foaming power can be obtained with any combination of a single compound from each of the three families of surfactants defined above, advantageously making it possible to minimize the number of ingredients present in the composition.

[0032] The composition according to the invention may contain anionic surfactants other than those defined above. Preferably, it does not contain any anionic surfactant other than acyl glutamic acids / acyl glutamates and acyl lactylic acids / acyl lactylates. In the same way, the composition according to the invention may contain non-ionic surfactants other than those defined above. Preferably, it does not contain any non-ionic surfactant other than alkyl glycosides whose alkyl radical contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0033] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants, for example when it is intended for the cosmetic treatment of hair, for a conditioning treatment. Preferably, it is free of cationic surfactant of non-natural origin, and, preferably, more generally, of any cationic surfactant.

[0034] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, it is free of amphoteric surfactants of non-natural origin, such as surfactants with a betaine unit, and, preferably, more generally, of any amphoteric surfactant.

[0035] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mixture of surfactants of the composition consists of: - one or more, preferably just one, anionic surfactants chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - one or more, preferably just one, non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, - and one or more, preferably just one, anionic surfactants chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0036] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more emulsifiers, such as for example glycol palmitate (INCI name). It may otherwise be free of them. Preferably, it is free of emulsifier formed from a mixture with the INCI name “arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl / behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside”, such as the mixture marketed under the name Montanov® 202.

[0037] In particular embodiments of the invention, said at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient is chosen from consistency agents, fillers, emollients, conditioning agents, stabilizers, perfumes, colorants, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] The composition according to the invention particularly preferably comprises at least one fatty phase consistency agent, preferably in a content of between 25 and 65% by weight, preferably between 30 and 60% by weight, in particular between 35 and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a concentration of consistency agent(s) in the composition advantageously ensures, in combination with the filler(s) which may also be contained therein, as explained below, optimal hardness and adhesive properties of the composition, in particular a hardness which is sufficiently low so that the composition does not crumble when handled by the user, and an adhesive power which is sufficiently strong so that the composition exhibits good cohesion, without however reducing its practical and pleasant characteristics of use.

[0039] The composition according to the invention may in particular contain one or more consistency agents chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably C16-C22, fatty acids, in particular C16-C18, and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0040] In a particular embodiment of the invention, when the composition comprises, as consistency agents, at least one or more fatty alcohols and one or more fatty acids, then the total weight of fatty alcohols is greater than the total weight of fatty acids.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention, when it contains one or more fatty acids as consistency agent(s), then also contains at least one fatty alcohol or hydrogenated castor oil.

[0042] By way of example, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more of the following ingredients as consistency agent(s): cetostearyl alcohol, for example as sold under the name Lanette® O OR / MB, behenic alcohol, for example as sold under the name Lanette® 22, a stearic acid / palmitic acid mixture, for example as sold under the name Stearin TP 1200, hydrogenated castor oil, for example as sold under the name Cutina® HR.

[0043] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises, as cosmetically acceptable excipient, at least one filler, which may be of either mineral or organic origin.

[0044] As fillers of mineral origin which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of clays, ceramic beads, calcium carbonate, titanium oxides, kaolin or aluminum silicate. As fillers of organic origin, mention may be made of starches, maltodextrin, celluloses such as cellulose beads, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium carbonate, nylon microspheres, micronized or non-micronized vegetable powders such as fruit powders or bamboo powders, or even rice grain hull powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one filler chosen from kaolin, maltodextrin, starches, celluloses, calcium carbonate and their mixtures.

[0046] The starches that can be used in the present invention can be derived from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. They can be, for example, corn starch, potato starch, pea starch, rice starch, oat starch, barley starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, cassaya starch or sorghum starch. These starches can be modified or not. A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as for example esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion. As cellulose, it is possible to use, for example, microcrystalline cellulose as sold under the name Vivapur® CS 9 FM. Kaolin sold under the name ImerCare® Opaque by the company Imerys can, for example, be used.

[0047] The total amount of filler(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 5 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, for example between 15 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more emollients, in particular chosen from vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil or sweet almond oil, butters, such as shea butter, for example as sold under the name Lipex SheaLight® or Cetiol® SB 45, glyceryl oleate, for example as sold under the name DUB® OG, lauroyl lysine, for example as sold under the name Amihope® LL.

[0049] The content of emollient(s) in the composition according to the invention is for example between 2 and 20% by weight, in particular between 5 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more pH adjusters. It is preferably free of pH adjusters, in particular of the NaOH type, citric acid, lactic acid, etc.

[0051] Where appropriate, the composition according to the invention may also contain: - one or more conditioning agent(s), preferably not belonging to the category of cationic surfactants, in particular chosen from isoamyl laurate, lauroyl lysine, the combination of chitosan and mandelic acid, or any of their mixtures, the total quantity of conditioning agent(s) preferably being between 0.01 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - and / or one or more stabilizers, such as chelators, for example tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, as sold under the name Dissolvine® GL-47-S, vitamin E or tocopherol acetate, as sold under the name Covi-ox® T-90.

[0052] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more cosmetically active agents, in particular topically, for example chosen from moisturizing agents, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0053] The total content of cosmetically active agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may for example be between 0.05 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises one or more cosmetically active agent(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helychris extracts, helychris essential oils, meadowfoam oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, such as the product marketed under the name Acides de Fleurs®, Garcinia extracts, Milk Thistle oil, niacinamide, Edelweiss extracts, such as the product marketed under the name Alpaflor® Edelweiss, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts, such a list being in no way limiting of the invention.

[0055] The composition according to the invention may further contain an exfoliating agent, which will allow the exfoliation of the skin (including the scalp) by mechanical and / or chemical action, exfoliating agents acting by both mechanical action and chemical action being particularly preferred in the context of the invention. The exfoliating agent may be chosen from agents of mineral, plant or organic origin. Thus, for example, polyethylene beads or powder, nylon particles, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice stone (INCI name: pumice), walnut shells, sawdust, wood flour, cork flour, glass beads, alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), sugar crystals, beads that melt when applied to the skin, such as, for example, mannitol and cellulose-based spheres, agar-based capsules, jojoba ester-based spheres, and mixtures thereof.The exfoliating agent(s) used are preferably not- . not soluble in water.

[0056] The composition according to the invention, in its desired form, can be prepared by any conventional method per se for the preparation of solid cosmetic compositions. Particularly preferred preparation methods within the scope of the invention are the extrusion and hot casting methods.

[0057] A method of preparing a composition according to the invention by extrusion comprises the preparation of a plug containing the surfactants of the composition and the excipient(s), to which the active agents and the optional perfume are then added. The mixture is then extruded through different grids in order to homogenize and refine it. Once the mixture is homogeneous, it gives a plug which is cut and struck in order to obtain a solid composition of the desired shape.

[0058] A method of preparing a composition according to the invention by hot casting comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of approximately 75-80°C. The homogenized hot mixture is then cast into molds of the desired shape and then allowed to cool.

[0059] These preparation methods are both simple and quick to implement.

[0060] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for washing and / or caring for (including exfoliating) the skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face and / or the scalp, and / or the hair, of an individual, preferably in topical application.

[0061] This use preferably comprises successive steps consisting of: - wet the composition with water, - develop foam, especially by rubbing the wet surface of the composition, - apply this foam to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably having been wet beforehand, - and rinse, preferably with water, if necessary after a possible exposure time and / or massage.

[0062] These steps can for example be implemented once or twice a day, for example in the morning and in the evening, or as often as necessary.

[0063] The solid composition according to the invention can in particular be used for washing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0064] In the present description, sensitive skin is understood to mean skin subject to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immunological factors. Atopic skin is understood to mean skin affected by an inflammatory disease characterized by dry skin associated with itching, such as in the case of eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0065] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair of an individual, using a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. This method comprises successive steps consisting of: - wet the composition with water, - develop foam, - apply the foam to the skin and / or hair, - and rinse, preferably with water.

[0066] This process can meet any characteristic, or combination of characteristics, described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0067] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the examples of implementation below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention.

[0068] EXAMPLES

[0069] 1 / Examples of compositions

[0070] Solid compositions according to the invention, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the body and face, meet the characteristics shown in Table 1.

[0071] [Tables 1] Composition 1 Composition 2 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w Sodium cocoyl glutamate 15-20 25-30 Decyl glucoside - 1.5 Lauryl glucoside 3 - Sodium lauroyl lactylate 3-6 3-6 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 - 10 7 - 10 Behenyl alcohol - - Cetostearyl alcohol Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Hydrogenated castor oil 5-10 5 - 10 Sunflower oil 11 5 Shea butter 2 1 Kaolin - - Corn starch 18 18 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate - - Water 3 1.5

[0072] Table 1 - Examples of compositions in accordance with the invention for the hygiene and care of the skin of the body and face

[0073] Solid compositions according to the invention, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the hair meet the characteristics shown in table 2.

[0074] [Tables2] Composition 3 Composition 4 Composition 5 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w % w / w Disodium cocoyl glutamate 25-30 - - Sodium cocoyl glutamate - 25-30 25-30 Decyl glucoside 3 - - Lauryl glucoside - 3 3 Sodium lauroyl lactylate 3-6 3-6 3-6 Stearic acid / palmitic acid Qsp 100% 7 7 Behenyl alcohol - Qsp 100% - Cetostearyl alcohol - - Qsp 100% Hydrogenated castor oil - 7 7 Coconut oil 5 - - Sweet almond oil - 6 - Sunflower oil - - 5 Shea butter - - 1 Maltodextrin 6 - - Corn starch - 18 18 Tocopheryl acetate 0.05 - - Water 3 3 3

[0075] Table 2 - Examples of compositions in accordance with the invention for hair hygiene and care

[0076] Comparative solid compositions, not in accordance with the invention, meet the characteristics shown in Table 3.

[0077] [Tables3] Composition 6 Composition 7 Ingredient (INCI name) % w / w % w / w Sodium cocoyl glutamate 25 - Sodium cocoyl isethionate - 20 Decyl glucoside - 3 Sodium lauroyl lactylate 5 9 Palmitic acid / stearic acid 7 45.9 Hydrogenated castor oil 7 - Sunflower oil 5 8 Shea butter 1 Corn starch 15 Maltodextrin - 11 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate - 0.1 Water - 3 Cetostearyl alcohol Qsp 100%

[0078] Table 3 - Examples of compositions not in accordance with the invention

[0079] More specifically, Composition 6 is devoid of surfactant of the alkyl glucoside type with a C8-C16 alkyl radical, and Composition 7 contains a surfactant with an isethionate group and is devoid of surfactant of the acyl glutamate type.

[0080] 2 / Evaluation of the characteristics of the compositions

[0081] The compositions of Example 1 are evaluated on the following criteria: - foaming power (quality / quantity): foam height, creamy foam, softness of the foam, - good tolerance (physiological pH, hypoallergenic, gentler and respectful of the epidermis), - stability over time, - organoleptic characteristics (color, odor), - hardness, as measured by a texture analyzer, the composition having sufficient consistency not to crumble but not to be too soft, - stickiness, as measured by a texture analyzer, the composition having to have a sufficient level of stickiness so as not to crumble, but not too high to be pleasant to use and to be able to be prepared under good conditions, especially in an extrusion device, - pH: the measurement is made with a pH meter after diluting 1 g of the composition in 100 g of water, the objective being to verify that the pH corresponds to the physiological pH of the skin.

[0082] For this purpose, the following operating protocols are implemented.

[0083] For the evaluation of hardness and tack, a TA.XTplus texture analyzer is used, with a penetration and withdrawal speed of 1 mm / s, a trigger force of 5 g, a distance of 8 mm and a Needle P / 2N needle. The composition is fixed on the table of the texturometer, and the following are measured: the penetration force of the needle (hardness measurement) and the exit force of the needle (tackiness evaluation). The results are expressed in grams.

[0084] For the evaluation of the foam height, a 250 ml graduated cylinder, with an external diameter of 38.9 cm and a height of 36 cm, with a stopper, is used. 0.5 g of composition is placed in this cylinder and demineralized water is added to make up to 50 ml. The cylinder is stoppered and then shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height is read, and is expressed in mm.

[0085] The results obtained are indicated in Table 4 with regard to the compositions according to the invention Composition 1, Composition 2 and Composition 5, and the comparative compositions not in accordance with the invention Composition 6 and Composition 7.

[0086] [Tables4] Composition 1 2 5 6 7 PH 5.35 5.35 5.38 5.41 4.94 Foam height (mm) 42 52 31 22 26 Hardness (g) 942 1378 1236 2524 1160 Stickiness (g) -397 -406 -338 -988 -319

[0087] Table 4 - Characteristics of the compositions

[0088] It is observed that the three compositions in accordance with the invention have a foam height greater than that of the compositions not in accordance with the invention, and in particular of Composition 7 which comprises an isethionate-type surfactant. The foaming power of Compositions 1 and 5, the total surfactant content of which is 23 or 24% w / w, is greater than that of comparative Compositions 6 and 7, the surfactant content of which is much higher (30 or 32% w / w). The surfactant content of Composition 2 according to the invention (31.5% w / w) is similar to that of the latter, and it is observed that its foaming power is much higher.

[0089] In addition, Composition 6, devoid of C8-C16 alkyl surfactant glucoside, is both much stickier and harder than the compositions according to the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains: - a mixture of surfactants comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition being free of surfactant with an isethionic or isethionate acid group and of surfactant with a sulfosuccinic or sulfosuccinate acid group.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of said mixture of surfactants is between 15 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, free from surfactant comprising a sulfate group.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is between 50 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture of surfactants.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said at least one non-ionic surfactant is octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside or a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is chosen from the group consisting of sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and any mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein said at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl lactylic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate or their mixture.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, free from amphoteric surfactant.

10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein said at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient is selected from consistency agents, fillers, emollients, conditioning agents, stabilizers, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 10, comprising at least one filler chosen from kaolin, maltodextrin, starches, celluloses, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, comprising a total quantity of filler(s) of between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further containing an exfoliating agent.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent chosen from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helychris extracts, helychris essential oils, meadowfoam oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, Edelweiss extracts, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, packaged in the form of a loaf, pebble, stick or ball.

16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair.

17. Use according to claim 16, for washing and / or caring for sensitive skin.

18. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, using a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising successive steps consisting of: - wet the said composition with water, - develop foam, - apply said foam to the skin and / or hair, - and rinse.