Composition comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, one or more polyols, one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and one or more cationic polymers

Abstract

Composition comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, one or more polyols, one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and one or more cationic polymers The present invention relates to a composition useful for cleaning keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, one or more polyols, one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and one or more cationic polymers. The composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning keratinous fibers using such a composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, one or more polyols, one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and one or more cationic polymers

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition useful for cleaning keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, one or more polyols, one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and one or more cationic polymers. The composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning keratinous fibers using such a composition.

[0003] People with curly or frizzy hair often have dry hair. This is related to the particular structure of this type of hair.

[0004] Additionally, their scalp may also be dry and itchy.

[0005] People with curly or frizzy hair generally have a scalp that produces little sebum. In addition, this sebum is poorly distributed on the scalp and hair, especially when the curls are tight. Since sebum has a nourishing and protective role for the hair, its poor distribution leads to brittle and fragile hair.

[0006] Dry hair and scalp can also be aggravated by the use of shampoos that may be too harsh.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to develop compositions which do not have the drawbacks described above, that is to say which are capable of gently and effectively cleaning the hair as well as providing a moisturizing effect in order to reduce the discomfort of users with curly or frizzy hair.

[0008] The compositions should also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of hair, particularly curly to kinky hair, while reducing tangles and preventing breakage or damage to the fibers.

[0009] It has now been discovered that a composition comprising a combination of non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), sorbitan ester(s) and cationic polymer(s) makes it possible to achieve the objectives described above. In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a combination exhibits effective but gentle cleansing properties while strengthening Hair hydration. Hair hydration is associated with three attributes: i) hair health, ii) appearance and feel, and finally iii) manageability. Hair health refers to the degree of hair nutrition, scalp hydration, hair integrity, and hair growth, while hair appearance and feel refers to shine, softness, smoothness, texture, and color. The real-life assessment of hair hydration for women with chemically treated and non-chemically treated hair is manageability: the ease with which hair is detangled, combed, and styled into the desired hairstyle.

[0010] Thus, an object of the invention is a composition comprising: - one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more polyols, - one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - one or more cationic polymers.

[0011] The composition of the present invention provides highly effective cleansing of the hair and scalp with an immediate moisturizing effect. In addition, the moisturizing effect can last for at least 48 hours after using the composition. The condition of the hair is improved, including the softness of the hair. The hair is also healthier and stronger, allowing it to better withstand combing and detangling.

[0012] In addition, the hair is easier to comb and detangle and has better cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of smoothness, flexibility and shine. The hair is also more manageable, allowing for better styling, and has less breakage. These benefits are also long-lasting.

[0013] The composition of the present invention also provides a long-lasting moisturizing effect to the scalp, thereby reducing discomfort and itching thereof.

[0014] Furthermore, the composition of the invention has a reduced water footprint and good biodegradability.

[0015] The composition gives the hair an immediate transformation of the fiber and provides moisturizing, emollient and protective properties to the hair and scalp. The composition gives instant softness and hydration to the hair fibers.

[0016] The application of the composition leads to a slight waxy coating on the hair, which results in an improvement in the smoothness and suppleness of the hair fibers. This slightly waxy coating thus facilitates combing and detangling of the hair to facilitate styling.

[0017] The composition according to the invention also has a good moisturizing effect on the leather. scalp. Without being bound by this theory, it is known that curly hair and scalp, and more specifically frizzy hair and scalp, can be naturally dry, with low sebum production. This type of hair needs to be nourished and moisturized constantly. The composition according to the invention contributes to the hydration of the hair and thus improves its strength and resistance (less fragile or brittle hair) as well as its softness. The composition according to the invention is particularly useful for treating curly or frizzy hair.

[0018] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined above.

[0019] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

[0020] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free" from a component refers to a composition which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, preferably which does not contain (0%) of said component, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.

[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of amphoteric surfactants.

[0025] Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of silicones.

[0026] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and silicones.

[0027] Nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type

[0028] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type which can be used according to the invention are preferentially chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0030] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms carbon, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a number ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0031] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above in which: - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0032] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside. C8-C18 alkyl(1,4)-(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, and in particular coco-glucoside.

[0033] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.

[0034] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0035] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is coco-glucoside.

[0036] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by BASF under the name Plantacare® 818.

[0037] Preferably, the total amount of the non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type ranges from 4 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Preferably, the total amount of (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Preferably, the total amount of (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] More preferably, the total amount of coco-glucoside ranges from 4 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Polyols

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.

[0043] The polyols of the invention are different from the alkylpolyglycosides previously described, and are different from polysaccharides.

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the hydrocarbon chain is linear or branched, and saturated.

[0045] In particular, the polyol(s) comprises from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.

[0046] Preferably, the polyol(s) comprises (comprise) from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0047] The polyols may be chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.

[0048] Preferably, the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] More preferably, the total amount of polyols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Preferably, the total amount of glycerin ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Sorbitan fatty acid esters

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.

[0053] The C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylenated.

[0054] Preferably, the fatty acid is unsaturated (comprises at least one C=C bond, preferably one) and more preferably comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 20, most preferably is oleic acid.

[0055] The esters of non-oxyethylenated fatty acids in C8-C30 and preferably in C12-C22 (in particular the monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan can be chosen from:

[0056] sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan tri-sostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan sadearate, more preferably sorbitan oleate.

[0057] The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (in particular monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic, oleic acid, of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:

[0058] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21),

[0059] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20),

[0060] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40),

[0061] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60),

[0062] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61),

[0063] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80),

[0064] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81),

[0065] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65),

[0066] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0067] The polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acids of sorbitan, containing in particular from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, containing in particular from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acids, of sorbitan, such as:

[0068] - the polyoxyethylenated ester containing 20 EO of sorbitan and cocoic acid (cocoate of PEG-20 sorbitan),

[0069] - polyoxyethylenated esters (containing in particular from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),

[0070] - polyoxyethylenated esters (containing in particular from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 sorbitan laurate),

[0071] - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular containing from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate),

[0072] - polyoxyethylenated esters (containing in particular from 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).

[0073] The C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are preferably chosen from non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non-oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and even more preferably from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.

[0074] Preferably, the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Preferably, the total amount of non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Preferably, the total amount of sorbitan oleate ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Cationic polymers

[0078] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic polymers.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" designates any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups. Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may either be part of the main chain of the polymer, or

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[0088] be carried by a side substituent directly linked to them. Preferably, the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise any anionic group or any group ionizable into an anionic group. Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between about 500 and 5.106, preferably between about 103 and 3.106. Among the cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units corresponding to the following formulae: — --------- o~c O. o HAS N R-" >• X. 'v Q i X- HAS R;. c— • c HAS has NH HAS N X formulas in which: R3, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - Ri and R2, which may be the same or different, represent an atom hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and

[0089] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a me- anion thiosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0090] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0091] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:

[0092] - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by dimethyl sulfate or by a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0093] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl chloride ammonium, such as products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

[0094] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl methosulfate ammonium, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0095] - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or the products known under the name Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

[0096] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyr- terpolymers rolidone, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0097] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP;

[0098] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0099] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)ammonium, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in a mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in a mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0100] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, guar gums and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic guar gums and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0101] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in document FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0102] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses in particular grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0103] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, it is also possible to use cationic associative celluloses, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0104] Mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups branched, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0105] We can cite the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI):

[0106] in which:

[0107] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide;

[0108] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b and R'c, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide;

[0109] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl;

[0110] - n, x and y, which may be the same or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0111] Preferably, in formula (VI), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b or R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl, better still C10 to C24, or even C10 to C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (Cl 2). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0112] Preferably, in formula (VI), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b or R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl, better still C10 to C24, or even C10 to C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0113] Better still, R may be chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0114] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0115] Aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0116] We can notably cite the polymers having the following INCI names:

[0117] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical;

[0118] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®;

[0119] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and

[0120] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cl8 alkyl), such as Crodacel QS® product, sold by Croda company.

[0121] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-, Cl. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name of Poly-quatemium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical.

[0122] More particularly, the polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs (between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s). Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs (2.5 Pa.s), Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs (2.7 Pa.s) and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs (2.8 Pa.s). It is also possible to use Softcat Polymer SX-1300X whose viscosity is between 1000 and 2000 cPs (between 1 and 2 Pa.s).

[0123] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Mention may be made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride). The cationic guar may be chosen from the products with the INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or guar hydroxypropyl-trimonium chloride. Such products are notably marketed under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.

[0124] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and alkylene or hydroxy- radicals divalent alkylene polymers containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0125] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in ranges from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per alkyl group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;

[0126] (5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene po- lyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0127] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0128] (7) alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII): (CH2)k --: CR„ C(RÎS>ÇH2- h2c ch2. gw r r /

[0129] formulas (VII) and (VIII) in which:

[0130] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0131] - Rn denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0132] - Rio and Rlb independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1 to C4 amidoalkyl group; or R10 and R h may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

[0133] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0134] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.

[0135] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (IX):

[0136] formula (IX) in which:

[0137] - Rn, Ru, Rn and R[6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rn, Ru, Rb and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogenous heteroatom, or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-Rp-D where Rn is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

[0138] - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be straight or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and

[0139] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0140] it being understood that Ab Rn and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0141] furthermore, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)nCO-D-OC-(CH2)n-in which D denotes:

[0142] a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0143] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

[0144] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; or

[0145] d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

[0146] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

[0147] More particularly, polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the formula (X) may be mentioned:

[0148] formula (X) in which Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X is a union derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0149] A particularly preferred compound of formula (X) is that for which R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known under the name Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0150] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XI): — N+ -(CH4-MH -CO-CCH4 -CO-^H-(CH.k-N+ — A — XJ " ' ' l fxn x r 2ï

[0151] formula (XI) in which:

[0152] - Ri8, R19, R20 and R2B which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)P OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R19, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0153] - r and s, which may be the same or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0154] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0155] - X denotes an anion, such as a halide, and

[0156] - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferentially represents - CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2 .

[0157] For example, we can cite the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 marketed by the company Miranol.

[0158] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0159] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0160] (12) polymers including in their structure:

[0161] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0162] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below " | (B) NH—CH 11 O

[0163] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0164] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0165] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic medium.

[0166] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0167] The cationic charge density of these polymers can range from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq / g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.

[0168] Polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0169] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and their mixtures, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, preferentially from cationic guar gums and their mixtures, more preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and their mixtures, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.

[0170] Preferably, the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Preferably, the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] More preferably, the total amount of cationic guar gums ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] Triglyceride type oils

[0174] The composition of the invention may also comprise triglyceride type oils of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferentially chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] When they are present in the composition of the invention, the total quantity of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] Additives

[0178] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.

[0179] As additives which may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric surfactants, amphoteric polymers, anionic or non-ionic, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric ones, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives.

[0180] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, negatively affected by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0181] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined above, and after an optional exposure time, to optionally remove it by rinsing.

[0183] After an optional exposure time, the composition can preferably be removed by rinsing with water. The fibers can then be dried or left to dry.

[0184] In general, the exposure time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

[0185] The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers, preferably to wet keratinous fibers.

[0186] In the present invention, the term "keratinous fibers" designates human keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair.

[0187] The following example serves to illustrate the invention without, however, having a limiting character. Examples

[0188] In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are indicated as mass percentages of active material (ai) relative to the total weight of the composition. a) Compositions

[0189] [Table 1] Compositions A1 and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. Composition Al (invention) Composition A2 (invention) Composition C (comparative) Coco-glucoside 5.72 5.72 9.36 Glycerin 5 5 1 Sorbitan oleate 0.6 0.1 - Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride 0.5 0.1 0.1 Preservative QS QS QS Aloe bar-badensis leaf juice 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 b) Product application protocol

[0190] Compositions A1 and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative), as well as another composition D (a standard market shampoo, comparative) were applied to wet hair (naturally curly hair, curl pattern 4-5 or 7-8).

[0191] For each test, a quantity of product of 0.4g / g of hair was applied for 30 seconds by massaging on wet hair, the product was left on the hair for 1 min and then rinsed for 30 seconds. Assessments were carried out under ambient conditions. The conditioning effects were evaluated on wet and dry hair. c) Detangling when wet

[0192] A common and highly consumer-relevant approach to measuring this lubrication involves an instrumental combing experiment. To assess smoothness properties, the classic Garcia combing method (ML Garcia and J Diaz, Combability Measurements on Hair, J Cosmet Sci 27 379-398 (1976)) is performed on hair while it is still wet.

[0193] The standard protocol for assessing detangling is carried out on bleached multi-ethnic hair (curl pattern 4-5). The following protocol was used for each composition A1, A2 and D, a standard shampoo on the market:

[0194] 1. Eight braids (3.0 g each, 8 inches long) were used per composition.

[0195] 2. As indicated above (see b)), the quantity of product applied was 0.4g / g of hair, with 30 seconds of massage, 1 minute of application time, followed by 30 seconds of rinsing.

[0196] 3. Six measurements are made per braid using a tensile testing machine. Instron to measure peak force as an indicator of product performance.

[0197] 4. The test involves the use of an Instron tensile testing machine to measure the frictional forces as a wet braid of hair is pulled through a comb and assesses the "combing force": the weaker the force, the easier it is to detangle.

[0198] [Table 2] The results are shown in the table below: Composition Al (invention) Composition A2 (invention) Composition D (comparative) Maximum force (grams force) 27.70 55.90 206.15

[0199] It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the detangling of hair in a very significant manner. d) Softness of dry hair

[0200] In order to quantify the change brought about by the treatment to the flexibility of the hair, the longitudinal compression forces of the dry hair were assessed.

[0201] The compression process was developed to simulate the action of the consumer who enjoys softness by touching and scrunching the hair on his head.

[0202] The method measures the compression force of a strand using a cylinder and piston assembly. The resistance offered by the sample is considered an indicator of hair softness. Since hair softness is a desirable attribute for the curliest hair, hair softness was assessed on very curly hair (7-8 curl pattern) as follows:

[0203] To carry out the test, after the treatment described in the product application protocol above (see b) above), the strand is inserted inside the cylinder with the root ends facing down and the tip ends facing up. The strand is secured using a cotton string. This allows the strand to be inserted without any constraint. The piston is then attached to the sensor and the compression force exerted by the piston on the strand is measured. This operation is repeated 5 times and the average compression work is captured using a LLOYD LS1EH extensometer (Amatek): the lower the compression work, the softer the hair.

[0204] [Table 3] The results are shown in the table below: Composition Al (invention) Composition A2 (invention) Composition C (comparative) Average Compression Work (AU) 36.2 33.7 88.3

[0205] It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the softness of the hair in a very significant manner. e) Ease of combing dry hair

[0206] To assess the combing force of dry hair strands in order to quantify the change brought about by the treatment, the Afro vitro combing method was developed to simulate the combing movement on the head from root to tip on very curly hair. To measure the combing force of the strand, a specific comb designed for combing African hair is used. To carry out the test, the strand is inserted at the root of the hair into the comb and the strand is clamped on the sensor. The strand moves in linear translation and the combing forces are measured. This movement is repeated 4 times and the combing forces are captured using a Lloyd LS1EH extensometer (Amatek).

[0207] The ease of combing was appreciated on very curly hair (curl pattern

[0208]

[0209] 7-8) as highlighted above. The weaker the combing force, the easier the hair is to comb. [Table 4] The results are shown in the table below: Composition Al (invention) Composition A2 (invention) Composition C (comparative) Average Combing Force (AU) 201,239,453

[0210] It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the combing of the hair in a very significant manner.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more polyols, - one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - one or more cationic polymers, in which the non-ionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is coco-glucoside and the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.

2. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more polyols are selected from di-glycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.

3. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which said one or more cationic polymers are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and their mixtures, preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, more preferably from cationic guar gums and their mixtures, preferably from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and their mixtures, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which further comprises one or more triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably chosen from triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,

6. wherein the composition is free of anionic surfactants. A composition according to any preceding claim,

7. wherein the composition is free of amphoteric surfactants. A composition according to any preceding claim,

8. wherein the composition is free of silicones. Cosmetic process for cleaning keratinous fibers wherein a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied.