COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ELECTROLYTE AND A COMBINATION OF POLYSACCHARIDES

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ELECTROLYTE AND A COMBINATION OF POLYSACCHARIDES The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a gel composition, comprising: (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, wherein the amount of (a) the electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ELECTROLYTE AND A COMBINATION OF POLYSAC CHARIDES technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising an electrolyte and a combination of polysaccharides. PREVIOUS ART

[0002] The gelation of compositions containing electrolytes, particularly a large quantity of electrolytes, makes it difficult to obtain a sufficient thickening effect. Thus, there are technical problems in the gelation of a composition containing electrolytes.

[0003] Some gelling technologies for a composition containing electrolytes have been reported to date. For example, WO2014 / 132783 discloses a skin gel composition, characterized in that it comprises (A) an electrolyte, (B) a nonionic polysaccharide compound, and (C) a crosslinked polymer formed using (C1) an acrylamide methyl propane sulfonate, (C2) a dimethylacrylamide, (C3) an alkyl (meth)acrylate and (C4) a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether (meth)acrylate.

[0004] Due to the growing awareness of environmental issues in recent years, consumers tend to want products using more environmentally friendly raw materials.

[0005] Thus, there is a demand to offer a gel-type composition formed with natural resources, which can maintain transparency over time and which has improved applicability with a preferred hardness range, while it contains a large amount of electrolytes. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to propose a gel-type composition formed with natural resources, which can maintain transparency over time and has improved applicability, while comprising a large amount of electrolytes.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0008] (a) at least one electrolyte,

[0009] (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

[0010] (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

[0011] (d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide

[0012] in which the quantity of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The (a) electrolyte can be a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.

[0014] The (a) electrolyte can be chosen from organic acids and their salts.

[0015] The (a) electrolyte can be chosen from among the hydroxy acids, such as α- and [3-hy- droxyacids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0016] The (a) electrolyte can be chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts.

[0017] The (b) cationic polysaccharide may have at least one ammonium group qua ternary.

[0018] The (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums.

[0019] The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The (c) anionic polysaccharides may include at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid, and preferably from carboxylic acid.

[0021] The (c) anionic polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid.

[0022] The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The (d) non-ionic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition may be in gel form.

[0025] The composition may comprise a synthetic polymer in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of keratinous substances, such as skin, comprising the step application to the scalp of the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0027] After careful research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that a combination of (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide and (d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide can provide a gel-like composition with improved transparency over time and preferred hardness, while the composition includes a large amount of electrolytes, and thus finalized the invention.

[0028] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0029] (a) at least one electrolyte,

[0030] (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

[0031] (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

[0032] (d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,

[0033] in which the quantity of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0035] [Composition]

[0036] The composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances. Keratinous substances herein refer to a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples include skin, such as facial, neck, and body skin, scalp, lips, and the like. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is used for skin.

[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, revitalization and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention has a preferred range of viscosity and hardness, thus offering users improved applicability. The composition according to the present invention can therefore be in the form of a gel composition, such as a liquid gel, a fluid gel, or a viscous gel. The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel.

[0039] The preferred viscosity range of the composition according to the present invention can be from 4,000 to 9,000 mPa·s at room temperature (25°C). As the composition is neither too viscous nor too fluid, it can offer users improved spreading properties and a preferred feel during application.

[0040] In certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention can be from 4,500 to 8,500 mPa·s, and higher. The viscosity is typically between 5,000 and 8,000 mPa·s at room temperature (25 °C). For the purposes of this study, viscosity can be measured, for example, using a viscometer (Brookfield LVDV-III U with #64 spindle) at 12 rpm. The viscosity can be recorded one minute after the start of the measurement.

[0041] The preferred hardness range of the composition according to the present invention can be from 5 to 15 g at room temperature (25 °C). As the composition is neither too hard nor too soft, it can offer users improved spreading properties and a preferred feel during application.

[0042] In certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the hardness of the composition according to the present invention can be from 7 to 15 g, and more preferably from 9 to 15 g at room temperature (25 °C). Within the scope of this specification, the hardness can be measured, for example, using a texture analyzer sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo, equipped with a round probe with a diameter of 5 mm at a speed of 2 mm / s.

[0043] The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended for use as a leave-on cosmetic composition. The term "leave-on" refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed off / rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition differs from a rinse-off composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after use on keratinous materials.

[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide.

[0045] The ingredients included in the composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0046] (Electrolyte)

[0047] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one electrolyte. Two (a) or more electrolytes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of electrolyte or a combination of different types of electrolytes may be used.

[0048] The (a) electrolyte can be a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, particularly skin, such as anti-aging agents, whitening agents, anti-wrinkle agents, moisturizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, astringent agents, ultraviolet absorbers, and / or antiperspirant agents. In the present invention, the (a) electrolytes are not particularly limited insofar as they can be used as raw materials for cosmetics and can be blended appropriately according to the intended purpose.

[0049] The (a) electrolyte may include, for example, organic acids and their salts, and inorganic acids and their salts. Preferably, the (a) electrolyte may be chosen among organic acids and their salts.

[0050] The term "organic acid" here refers to non-polymer organic compounds that exhibit acidic properties when dissolved in water. The solubility of the organic acid in water is not particularly limited, but generally at least 1 g / 100 mL of water, preferably at least 5 g / 100 mL of water, and in particular at least 10 g / 100 mL of water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0051] The organic acid may have a weight average molecular weight of less than 500, preferably less than 400, particularly less than 300, and more particularly less than 250. In the context of this specification, the average molecular weight indicates a number average molecular weight.

[0052] The organic acid can be chosen from, for example, hydroxy acids, such as α- and γ-hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0053] With regard to α- and [3-hydroxy acids, the positions α and [3] reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl groups occupies an α or [3] position relative to at least one of the carboxyl groups of the acid; that is, it is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl group or to the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl group. The term "α-hydroxy acid," or "AHA," here denotes a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (α) carbon atom. The term "[3-hydroxy acid," or "BHA," here denotes a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0054] The α-hydroxy acid can be represented by the following formula:

[0055] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH

[0056] where

[0057] Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group in saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, linear or branched or cyclic chain, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore Ra and Rb may bear OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

[0058] The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Alpha hydroxy acids may be present as the free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as the D, L, DL, and meso forms.

[0059] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Ra and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl and ethoxyl.

[0060] The α-hydroxy acid can be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid and their mixtures, preferably from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and their mixtures, more preferably from lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and their mixtures.

[0061] Examples of [3-hydroxy acids include, without limitation, salicylic acid and its derivatives.

[0062] The carboxylic acid can be chosen from Cr C6 monocarboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid; Cr C6 dicarboxylic acids, such as maleic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid and malonic acid; aromatic carboxylic acids, such as phthalic acid and salicylic acid; pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid.

[0063] Amino acids can be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids, and mixtures thereof. Acidic amino acids generally have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Examples of acidic amino acids include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Basic amino acids generally have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Examples of basic amino acids include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in neutral amino acids are identical. Examples of neutral amino acids include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan.

[0064] The amino acid may be selected from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids, and β-amino acids. The α-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. The cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of the acid glutamic acid.

[0065] In some embodiments, the amino acid may be chosen from amino acid derivatives. Amino acid derivatives may be chosen from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group is substituted by at least one substituent. Examples of substituents include an alkyl group, an acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group, and an alkoxycarbonyl group.

[0066] The cationic fraction of the electrolyte may consist of metallic or organic cations. Examples of metallic cations include alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, such as Na+, K+, Ca2+ and Mg2+, as well as Zn2+ and Al3+. Examples of organic cations include ammonium ions, sulfonium ions, phosphonium ions, and tertiary amines such as trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, monoethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts, and pyridine salts.

[0067] As (a) electrolytes, the following organic acids and their inorganic salts, such as calcium salts, potassium salts, sodium salts and magnesium salts, may be cited: lactic acid and lactates, such as sodium lactate, magnesium lactate and calcium lactate; phosphoric acid and phosphate, such as potassium phosphate, sodium phosphate, sodium pyrophosphate; glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhizinate, such as dipotassium glycyrrhizinate; ascorbic acid and its salts, such as magnesium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate, disodium L-ascorbyl sulfate; pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylates, such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate; amino acids such as proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, serine and their derivatives;UV absorbers such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salts, and similar substances.

[0068] In particular, the (a) electrolyte is chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts.

[0069] The quantity of the (b) electrolyte(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content of 7% by weight or more, preferably 8.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content ranging from 7% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 9% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In the context of this Memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0074] (Cationic polysaccharide)

[0075] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide. Two or more types of cationic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of cationic polysaccharides may be used.

[0076] The (b) cationic polysaccharide can be soluble in water and can support a cationic charge in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "water-soluble" here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0077] The (b) cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polysaccharide can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0078] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a) cationic polysaccharide be 500 or more, preferably 1,000 or more, more preferably 2,000 or more, and even more preferably 5,000 or more.

[0079] Unless otherwise specified in the description, "molecular weight" may refer to a number-average molecular weight.

[0080] The (a) cationic polysaccharide may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term “amino group” (primary) here refers to the NH2 group.

[0081] It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group and, more preferably, a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

[0082] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a group containing a quaternary ammonium which can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0083] in which

[0084] each of Ri and R2 designates an alkyl group Ci.3, preferably a group methyl or ethyl, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0085] R3 designates an alkyl group C, 24- preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0086] X- designates a union, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

[0087] n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10, and more preferably equal to 0, and

[0088] R4 designates an alkylene group in Cr C4, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0089] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0090] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium be -O-CH2 -CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0091] The (b) cationic polysaccharide can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0092] The (b) cationic polysaccharide can be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

[0093] It may be preferable that the (a) cationic polysaccharide be chosen from among cationic cellulosic polymers.

[0094] According to the present invention, a "cationic cellulosic polymer" means any non-siliconized cellulosic polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

[0095] The term "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds. The cellulosic polymer may be associative, that is to say, have in its structure at least one fat chain in C8-C30.

[0096] Cationic cellulosic polymers suitable for use preferably have a weight average molecular weight (Pm) between about 5,000 and 5.106, preferably between about 103 and 3.106.

[0097] The following are non-limiting examples of cationic cellulosic polymers.

[0098] (1) Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives including one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0099] (2) Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulosic copolymers and Cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with one of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products based on these polymers include, for example, products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by Akzo Novel.

[0100] (3) Cationic cellulosic polymers having at least one ammonium group quaternary comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0101] The fatty chain of quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be a linear alkyl, a linear or branched arylalkyl, a linear alkylaryl, preferably a linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, one can cite quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl groups, preferably linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited:

[0104] in which:

[0105] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a linear hydrogen or alkyl atom in C1-C30, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counter-ion such as a halide like chloride or bromide;

[0106] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

[0107] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

[0108] - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0109] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; preferably in the C10-C24 or C10-C14 range; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a notable example. Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, in particular the methyl group.

[0110] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; preferably in the C10-C24 range, or in the C10-C14 range; the dodecyl radical (Cl2) may be mentioned in particular. Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, in particular the methyl group.

[0111] More preferably, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' - and -N+(C i2H25)(CH3)2, Q'-, preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'-.

[0112] More preferably, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'-.

[0113] The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0114] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names:

[0115] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL;

[0116] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

[0117] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (Cl2 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL®; and

[0118] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cl8 alkyl), such as CRODACEL QS® product, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0119] One may also mention hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents a trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known as INCI Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, we can cite the SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0120] More specifically, the cationic cellulosic polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67). It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0121] It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be chosen from among the cationic starches.

[0122] Examples of cationic starches include starches modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, a chloride), such as the product called starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to INCI nomenclature and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 by Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 by Ingredion.

[0123] It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be chosen from cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

[0124] The expression "cationic galactomannan gum" means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups.

[0125] Galactomannans are polysaccharides essentially composed of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1,4-glycoside bond and the galactose branching occurs via a 1,6-bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) bears three free hydroxyl groups available for the chemical reaction. Galactomannans are generally found in the endosperm of legume grains such as guar or carob.

[0126] Preferred cationic groups are chosen from those including primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0127] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight between about 500 and 5x106, and preferably between about 103 and 3x106.

[0128] Galactomannan groups suitable for use according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0129] Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups can be mentioned in particular.

[0130] More preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0131] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0132] Gums can, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum and arabic gum.

[0133] These galactomannan gums, derived in particular from guar modified by cationic groups, are products already known as such and are described for example in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307.

[0134] Examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives. In addition, these products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) by Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) by Degussa and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) by Aqualon. Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is a hydroxypropyl derivative of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available under the Jaguar™ brand of Rhodia Inc. Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 of Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. or ClearHance™ of Ashland Inc.

[0135] It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be chosen from chitosans.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, the (b) cationic polysaccharide is chosen from cationic gums, more preferably cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives.

[0137] It may be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan, and a mixture of these, and more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a mixture of these.

[0138] The quantity of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The quantity of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] The quantity of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] (Anionic polysaccharide)

[0142] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide. Two or more types of anionic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of anionic polysaccharides may be used.

[0143] The (c) anionic polysaccharide can be soluble in water and can carry a negative charge in water.

[0144] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (c) anionic polysaccharide be 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, and more preferably 10,000 or more.

[0145] The (c) anionic polysaccharide may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, e.g., carboxyalkyl, sulfate, sulfonate, e.g., sulfoalkyl, phosphate, and phosphonate groups. The alkyl groups in these fractions may be the alkyl group in C1.4, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl.

[0146] Preferably, the (c) anionic polysaccharides should have at least one carboxylate group, for example, a carboxyalkyl group. The counterion of the anionic group is usually an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, suitablely sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium. The anionic groups may also exist in their acidic form, whereby the corresponding anionic groups are formed in an aqueous environment.

[0147] The (c) anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid, or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acidic salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, of lithium or potassium.

[0148] The (c) anionic polysaccharide can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0149] The (c) anionic polysaccharide can be selected from the polysaccharides natural anionic and synthetic anionic polysaccharides.

[0150] Examples of suitable natural anionic polysaccharides of the invention include polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid; polysaccharides comprising at least one galacturonic acid as a constituent, such as pectins; sulfated polysaccharides, such as carrageenan, ulvan, fucoidan, chondroitin sulfates, dermatan sulfates; agar-agar, and combinations thereof.

[0151] Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucoses] linked in a [3(1,4) manner, similar to cellulose. Every other glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid], and a terminal [3-D-mannose]. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated at carbon 6. Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in a chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged glucuronic and pyruvic acids are ionizable and thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan gum (negative charge up to pH 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, post-fermentation conditions and purification steps.

[0152] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition comprising 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 °C using a Brookfield LVT type viscometer at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0153] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0154] Gellan gum is a linear anionic heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of four saccharides (tetrasaccharide). D-glucose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid in a 2:1:1 ratio are present in gellan gum as monomeric components. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

[0155] Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide that is present as mixtures of potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts. The monomeric components of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid.

[0156] Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked by 1,4-glycosidic bonds: 3-D-mannuronic acid (M) and αL-glucuronic acid (G). Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, or lithium, and with substituted cations of lower amines and ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, or triethanolamine.

[0157] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0159] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically covers the basic hyaluronic acid formula:

[0160] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a di-saccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0161] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric motif described above, linked together in the chain via alternating [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)] glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 1,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation processes.

[0162] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. Salts include... to cite alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts and their mixtures.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0164] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

[0165] In another variant, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0166] Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked at positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxyl groups esterified with a methanol group. Approximately 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-rhamnose residues are present in all pectins, integrated into the main chain at positions 1 and 2. The α-galacturonic acid molecules bear carboxyl groups. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions when they are in the COO⁻ form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

[0167] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae, and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20 to 50%), and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of the ester sulfate groups on the repeated disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which carry one ester sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which carry two ester sulfate groups, and lambda-carrageenans which carry three ester sulfate groups.Carrageenans are... composed mainly of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and polysaccharide ester sulfates.

[0168] Agar-agar is formed from a polymer group in which the basic skeleton is a [3(1,3) D-galactopyranose chain and an a(1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these motifs repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in varying percentages, depending on the seaweed species and the harvest season.

[0169] Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) with a high molecular weight, between 40,000 and 300,000 g.mol. It is obtained by manufacturing seaweed extraction juice, generally by autoclaving, and by processing these juices containing about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter.

[0170] In a preferred embodiment, the (c) anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid, in particular xanthan gum.

[0171] Examples of suitable synthetic anionic polysaccharides include anionic cellulosic derivatives. Anionic cellulosic derivatives may include those modified by carboxyalkyl groups, particularly the C14 carboxyalkyl group, such as the carboxymethyl group, the carboxyethyl group, the carboxypropyl group, and the sulfoalkyl group, particularly the C14 sulfoalkyl group, such as the sulfomethyl group. Examples of anionic cellulosic derivatives include carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose, carboxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylsulfoethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose (“CM-HEC”), and carboxymethylcellulose.

[0172] The quantity of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] The quantity of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The quantity of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] (Non-ionic polysaccharide)

[0176] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide. Two or more types of nonionic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of nonionic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of nonionic polysaccharides may be used.

[0177] The (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be soluble in water.

[0178] For example, the nonionic polysaccharides that may be used are chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", published by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academie Press Inc., the contents of these three publications being fully incorporated by reference.

[0179] Specifically, the (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be selected, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, maize or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potato or cassaya), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, tragacanth gums, gums ghatti, karaya gums, carob gums, galacto-mannans, such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof,which are different from (b) cationic polysaccharide and (c) anionic polysaccharide explained above.

[0180] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic fractions that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these fractions and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0181] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassaya starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0182] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0183] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated with Ci-C6 or acylated with CrC6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0184] Guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

[0185] Modified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, modified by hydroxyalkyl groups in Cr C6.

[0186] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0187] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0188] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0189] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120 and Jaguar HP-120 by the Solvay company.

[0190] Examples of celluloses used include hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Examples include products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the Ashland company.

[0191] Alternatively, as a non-ionic hydrophilic polysaccharide thickener, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms may also be used preferentially.

[0192] Microorganism-derived polysaccharide means polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

[0193] The microorganism-derived polysaccharide is not a plant-derived polysaccharide. Thus, it may be preferable for the microorganism-derived polysaccharide not to be cellulose-based.

[0194] Examples of polysaccharides derived from microorganisms include cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum and mixtures thereof.

[0195] The amount of the (d) non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] The quantity of the (d) non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] The quantity of the (d) non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] (Other ingredients)

[0199] - Water

[0200] The composition according to the present invention comprises water.

[0201] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more; and / or may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less; and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] - Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent

[0204] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. If two or more of these solvents are used, they may be identical or different.

[0205] Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, such as monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, and their derivatives.

[0206] The quantity of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] - Additives

[0208] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, chosen from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents other than ingredients (b) to (d); penetrating agents; pH adjusters such as sodium hydroxide; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants, such as hydroxyacetophenone; moisturizers; emollients; active agents for keratinous substances; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents such as trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; suspending agents; a buffer; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; fungicides, such as chlorphenesin; opacifying agents;Agents that can cause a cooling sensation; and mixtures thereof.

[0209] The quantity of additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0210] In some embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not comprise a synthetic polymer, such as a gelling agent. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a synthetic polymer, but the amount thereof is very small. For example, the composition of the present invention comprises a synthetic polymer in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of synthetic polymers (i.e., 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0211] Examples of synthetic polymers include polyacrylate and similar materials.

[0212] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free or contains only a trace amount of oil. In some embodiments, the oils may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free (i.e., 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0213] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0214] The oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly those of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. The oil may be selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.

[0215] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any silicon atoms.

[0216] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" is intended to designate an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.

[0217] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can generally be, for example, from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6.

[0218] The composition according to the present invention can be manufactured using techniques customary in the art, for example, by mixing ingredients (a) to (d). Said other ingredients may be mixed with these ingredients. While these ingredients are being mixed, they may be heated if necessary.

[0219] [Cosmetic process and use]

[0220] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method or process, preferably a cosmetic method or process, and more preferably a cosmetic method or process for the treatment, care and / or revitalization of keratinous substances, such as skin, scalp and lips, in particular skin, comprising:

[0221] the application to the keratinous substance of a composition comprising:

[0222] (a) at least one electrolyte,

[0223] (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

[0224] (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

[0225] (d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,

[0226] in which the quantity of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of

[0228] (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

[0229] (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

[0230] (d) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide,

[0231] for the gelling of a composition comprising (a) an electrolyte in a quantity of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] The composition is generally applied to a keratinous substance, such as the skin, with the hands or an applicator.

[0233] The composition according to the present invention is intended for use as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process or use according to the present invention may not include a rinsing or washing step for the applied composition after the application step.

[0234] The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide in the composition of the invention can be applied to those for the process and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may include any one of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0235] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0236] In the examples, "Maltitol (and) Sorbitol" were obtained from KANKOHSHA, sold under the name "Amalty Syrup", and Oryzanol was obtained from TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS, sold under the name "Gamma Oryzanol".

[0237] [Composition]

[0238] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. 1 to 3) and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 were prepared in accordance with the following protocol. The formulations are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. In Tables 1 and 2, all components are based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[0239] [Preparation Protocol]

[0240] 1) Mix water, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, disuccinate trisodium ethylenediamine at 75 to 80 °C to form a uniform mixture.

[0241] 2) Add pentylene glycol, ceratonia siliqua gum and gum xanthan gum, if applicable, to the mixture and mix using a homogenizer at 75 to 80 °C to homogenize.

[0242] 3) Add the ascorbic acid to the mixture and mix it with a homogenizer at 50 °C in order to homogenize.

[0243] 4) Add the sodium hydroxide to the mixture and mix it with a homogenous neuter at 50 °C in order to homogenize.

[0244] 5) Add the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, the case if necessary, to the mixture and mix with a homogenizer at 50 °C in order to homogenize.

[0245] 6) Cool the mixture to 30 °C without stirring.

[0246] [Evaluation]

[0247] (Viscosity)

[0248] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 was measured using a viscometer (Brookfield LVDV-III U with #64 spindle), at 12 rpm at room temperature (25 °C). The viscosity 1 minute after the start of the measurement was recorded.

[0249] The preferred viscosity value is in the range of 4,000 to 9,000 mPa·s. When the viscosity value is less than 4,000 mPa·s, the composition may drip during application. When the viscosity value is greater than 9,000 mPa·s, it may be too difficult to spread the composition on the skin.

[0250] (Hardness)

[0251] The hardness of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 was measured with a texture analyzer sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo equipped with a round probe with a diameter of 5 mm at a speed of 2 mm / s at room temperature (25 °C).

[0252] The preferred hardness value is in the range of 5 to 15 g. When the hardness value is less than 5 g, the composition may drip during application. When the hardness value is greater than 15 g, the composition may become jelly-like and it may be too difficult to spread the composition evenly on the skin.

[0253] (Color change)

[0254] 200 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Examples Com Comparatives 1 to 9 were placed in a 250 mL plastic bottle and then left at 45 °C for 2 months. The change in color and appearance was observed visually and then evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0255] OK: the color turned slightly brown but was acceptable.

[0256] NG: The color has clearly turned brown and was not acceptable.

[0257] The results are summarized in Tables 1 and 2 below.

[0258] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Pentylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum 0.3 0.3 0.2 1 - - Xanthan Gum 0.3 0.3 0.4 - 1 - Ascorbic Acid 10 10 10 10 10 10 Sodium Hydroxide 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 Hydroxypropyl chloride guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.3 0.1 0.3 - - 1 Evaluation Viscosity 7900 5400 6500 1200 7900 450 Hardness 10.3 14.7 10.5 <5 <5 <5 Color change OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

[0259] [Tables2] Ingredients Ex. Comp. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 Ex. Comp. 8 Ex. Comp. 9 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Ceratonia Siliqua (carob) gum 0.5 - 0.5 0.2 0.3 0.3 Xanthan gum 0.5 0.5 - 0.2 0.3 0.3 Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 10 10 10 Sodium hydroxide 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 Polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer - - - - - 0.3 Hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride - 0.5 0.5 - - - Evaluation Viscosity 7500 3700 800 1700 4800 8400 Hardness 90.4 <5 <5 6.1 15.7 13.5 Color change OK OK OK OK OK NG

[0260] As can be seen from the results shown in Tables 1 and 2, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which included combinations of ingredients (b) to (d) of the present invention, exhibited preferred viscosity and hardness properties, and maintained a transparent appearance over time, while these compositions included 10% by weight of ascorbic acid as an electrolyte (a).

[0261] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 9, which lacked at least one of the ingredients (b) to (d), did not exhibit the desired viscosity and / or hardness, or showed a poor appearance due to a change in color.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, comprising: (a) at least one electrolyte, selected from ascorbic acid and its salts, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, wherein the amount of (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from the cationic gums.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (c) anionic polysaccharide is selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid.

4. Cosmetic process for treating, caring for and / or revitalizing keratinous substances, such as skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous substances, the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.