New triphasic cosmetic composition of natural origin

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular a Winsor III type system, in which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, comprising a lipophilic phase, a microemulsion, and a hydrophilic phase. (No figure)

Description

Title of the invention: New triphasic cosmetic composition of natural origin

[0001] DOMAIN

[0002] The invention relates to new cosmetic compositions of natural origin in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system, their formulation method, their preparation process and their application.

[0003] CONTEXT

[0004] Cosmetic compositions of natural origin, respectful of nature and the environment, are in high demand among consumers. Cosmetic compositions free of silicone-based constituents are particularly sought after. Indeed, silicone oils, and more specifically their cyclic monomers, have an undesirable environmental and health impact because they are not biodegradable and are suspected of being harmful to health. Consumers are turning to cosmetic products derived from natural sources, particularly plant-based, non-petrochemical, and renewable sources, or from biotechnological sources, which are more respectful of food resources.

[0005] In this context, the international standard ISO 16128 was developed, aiming to provide guidelines for the definitions applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients at the international level. This standard specifies the principles and criteria for natural and organic ingredients in cosmetics and makes it possible to establish the percentage of naturalness of a cosmetic product.

[0006] Cosmetic ingredients have different solubilities due to the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of their constituents and come in various forms which may be liquid or solid.

[0007] Liquid cosmetic finished products are predominantly presented either in the form of an aqueous solution, or in the form of an oil, or in the form of an emulsion.

[0008] Among the numerous formulations of cosmetic compositions, emulsions and biphasic systems comprising a hydrophilic phase and a lipophilic phase have the advantage of being able to combine immiscible compounds in the same composition.

[0009] Winsor III type three-phase emulsion systems are also known from the prior art

[0010] Three-phase systems, known as Winsor III systems, are a microemulsion in equilibrium with an excess of water and oil. The density of oil in cosmetics is always less than 1; therefore, when the system is in a tube, the oil is located at the top of the tube. Next, the microemulsion is in the center, and finally, the aqueous phase is at the bottom of the tube, all in thermodynamic equilibrium. When a Winsor III microemulsion is shaken, the different phases mix again to create an unstable emulsion that takes several minutes or even several hours to return to equilibrium. The advantages of this temporary state are re-homogenization of the system and very low interfacial tension, allowing for uniform spreading on the substrate (skin, nail, hair). This is generally not the case with exclusive systems (i.e., those based on the exclusion of phases, meaning the insolubility of the system's ingredients). The advantages of Winsor III systems in cosmetics are primarily sensory, but they also allow users to overcome the intrinsic solubilities of their constituent ingredients.

[0011] - the view because it presents 3 distinct phases,

[0012] - touch because it possesses an ultra-low interfacial tension involving a large homogeneity and optimal spreading often solve the stickiness problems associated with vegetable oils.

[0013] - the sense of smell because microemulsions allow for the application of perfume concentrations high between 1 and 30%.

[0014] There is a need for highly or entirely natural cosmetic compositions.

[0015] There is a need for systems that allow the introduction and association of principles actives regardless of their hydrophilic or hydrophobic affinity, in particular without the intervention of a solubilizing or compatibilizing agent.

[0016] There is a need for a composition that allows for optimal application of the active ingredients in terms of practicality, effectiveness and sensory appeal, particularly visual or tactile.

[0017] There is a need for a method to formulate such systems.

[0018] There is a need to provide a method for preparing such compositions.

[0019] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition of natural origin in the form of a triphasic system comprising a hydrophilic phase, a lipophilic phase and a microemulsion of said phases.

[0020] Another object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a temporary emulsion, easily applicable either directly or by spray.

[0021] Another object of the invention is to provide a method for formulating such three-phase systems and a process for preparing them.

[0022] A first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition being constituted or comprising: - a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an aqueous phase representing 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 30 to 40%, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form selected from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, - a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an oily phase representing 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 20 to 35% by weight, • a natural oil or a blend of natural oils, preferably based on vegetable oils or emollients, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil - a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising • one or more surfactants representing 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 5 to 10%,

[0023] selected from alkyl polyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of naturally occurring fatty acids and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol, - optionally a colorant, - possibly a perfume, - at least one active cosmetic ingredient.

[0024] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, as defined above, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition being constituted or comprising - a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an aqueous phase representing 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 30 to 40%, • possibly a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt being derived from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, • possibly ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form selected from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols,

[0025] in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, - a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an oily phase representing 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 20 to 35% by weight, • a natural oil or a mixture of natural oils,

[0026] in particular selected from: • a vegetable oil, • medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), • monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts • an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, • an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular selected from terpenes, squalene and squalane, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil, • a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising • one or more surfactants representing 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 5 to 10%, • selected from alkyl polyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of naturally occurring fatty acids and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol,

[0027] selected from

[0028] capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof,

[0029] polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and glyceryl caprylate / caprate mixture,

[0030] sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, - possibly a dye, - possibly a perfume, - at least one active cosmetic ingredient.

[0031] An organic acid, whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, is an acid present in the cosmetic composition due to its formulation aimed at achieving a cosmetic property. Examples include lactic acid, with its humectant or exfoliating properties, and sebacic acid, with its sebum-regulating or antibacterial properties.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition being constituted or comprising - a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an aqueous phase representing 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 30 to 40%, • possibly a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt comes from the neutralization of an organic acid with previously established cosmetic properties • possibly ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form selected from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, Propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols,

[0033] in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, - a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an oily phase representing 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 20 to 35% by weight, • a natural oil or a mixture of natural oils,

[0034] chosen from: • a vegetable oil, • medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), • monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts • an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, • a naturally occurring alkane or alkene, in particular selected from terpenes, squalene and squalane, preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil • a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising • one or more surfactants representing 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 5 to 10%,

[0035] selected from

[0036] capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof,

[0037] polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and glyceryl caprylate / caprate mixture,

[0038] sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and a mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, - optionally a colorant, - possibly a perfume, - at least one active cosmetic ingredient.

[0039] The composition according to the invention is a thermodynamically stable three-phase system in the form of three visually distinct liquid layers. The composition according to the invention consists of a hydrophilic liquid phase and a lipophilic liquid phase, immiscible between them, in which an intermediate liquid phase is created using all the surfactants, consisting of a microemulsion of said lipophilic and hydrophilic phases comprising one or more surfactants, i.e., a system called Winsor III.

[0040] The inventors have surprisingly found it possible to obtain such Winsor III type three-phase systems, namely thermodynamically stable, based solely or predominantly on a selection of ingredients of natural origin without the use of silicone-based compounds, mineral oil or liquid polyols, which are usually required.

[0041] The compositions of the invention have the advantage that one of its components can itself be a cosmetic active ingredient and that cosmetic active ingredients can be introduced regardless of their affinity in order to distribute themselves between the hydrophilic phase, the lipophilic phase or the central microemulsion, generally with a maximum solubility which is achieved in Winsor III type systems.

[0042] Advantageously, the constituents of the composition such as oil or salt are not only structural elements of the microemulsion, but can also possess a cosmetic effect such as emollient properties.

[0043] Furthermore, the properties of the different constituents in the microemulsion differ from those of the pure constituents in liquid form due to a different molecular environment. For example, in the structuring of a microemulsion, the oil will exhibit a different sensory experience than an oil applied in pure form directly to the skin.

[0044] In a particular embodiment, said active principle is one of the constituents of the composition according to the invention.

[0045] The solutions of the invention have a more advantageous sensory profile than the pure oil used in the lipophilic phase as demonstrated in examples 9 to 13 for the descriptions: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption, according to sensory tests carried out with the “EBItouch®” kit.

[0046] By "hydrophilic phase" is meant a liquid phase of the composition comprising water and water-soluble compounds.

[0047] By "aqueous phase" is meant a phase consisting of water.

[0048] The range of 15 to 50% includes the following ranges: from 15 to 20%; from 20 to 25%; from 25 to 30%; from 30 to 35%; from 35 to 40%; from 40 to 45%; from 45 to 50%.

[0049] The range of 5 to 20% includes the following ranges: from 5 to 10%; from 10 to 15%; from 15 to 20%.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, a "cosmetic mineral or organic salt" means a cosmetically acceptable salt consisting of inorganic and / or organic cations and anions, resulting from the neutralization of an organic acid present in the cosmetic composition. For example, said neutralized organic acid is lactic acid, pidolic acid, fruit acid-type organic acids, malic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and their salts.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, "polyol" means polyalcohols comprising glycols, polyoses, or glycerol, such as 1,2-glycols, 1,3-diols, or 1,4-diols, in liquid form at atmospheric pressure and room temperature (20-15°C) serving as water-miscible humectants. Polyols consist of a linear or branched alkyl chain of 3 to 12 carbon atoms comprising at least two -OH groups. Polyols used as humectants that can be introduced into cosmetic products are known to those skilled in the art and are listed in cosmetic manuals. For example, ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol are excluded from polyols that can be used in cosmetics due to their toxicity.

[0052] By "comprising less than 1% by mass" is meant comprising less than 1% by total mass of the composition, in particular comprising less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%.

[0053] By "lipophilic phase" is meant a liquid phase of the composition comprising oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other and compounds miscible in said oil or mixture of oils.

[0054] By "oil" is meant a liquid fat at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0055] By "oily phase" is meant a phase consisting of an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other.

[0056] By “natural oil” is meant a liquid fat at room temperature and atmospheric pressure of natural origin, namely as such in nature and untreated, which may be of biotechnological or vegetable origin, or a fat comprising a part of natural origin.

[0057] By "vegetable oil" is meant an oil as defined above of vegetable origin.

[0058] By "emollient" we mean a substance which, while allowing gas exchange, limits the natural evaporation of interstitial water. Emollients, especially emollients of natural origin, belong to classes of cosmetic compounds well known to those skilled in the art in the field of cosmetic formulation.

[0059] By "naturally occurring alkane or alkene" is meant a naturally occurring liquid alkane or alkene at atmospheric temperature and pressure, namely as such in nature, untreated and not derived from petrochemicals, which may be of biotechnological or plant origin, such as terpenes, squalene and squalane.

[0060] The term "silicone" means polydimethylsiloxanes and silicone oils such as dimethicone, dimethiconol, crosslinked silicone polymers, silicone-polysiloxane copolymers, or organically modified silicones such as cetyl dimethicone, etc.

[0061] The term “mineral oil” refers to an oil of mineral origin as defined above, namely a liquid mixture obtained from the distillation of certain fossil fuels (coal, petroleum, coal, oil shale, etc.), composed mainly of alkanes comprising 15 to 40 carbon atoms, as distinct from vegetable and animal oils. Mineral oils used in cosmetics include, for example, isododecane and isohexadecane.

[0062] The range of 10 to 50% includes the following ranges: from 10 to 15%; from 15 to 20%; from 20 to 25%; from 25 to 30%; from 30 to 35%; from 35 to 40%; from 40 to 45%; from 45 to 50%.

[0063] It is understood that the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase are immiscible with each other in said composition at atmospheric temperature and pressure.

[0064] The term "emulsion" refers to a phase in the form of a heterogeneous mixture comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase that are immiscible with each other at room temperature (15-30°C) and atmospheric pressure, in which one of the two phases, called the dispersed phase, is present as droplets in the other phase, called the continuous phase. Macroscopic emulsions are not thermodynamically stable systems.

[0065] By "microemulsion" is meant a thermodynamically stable emulsion or dispersion of two immiscible liquid phases, stabilized by one or more surfactants, in a bicontinuous intermediate phase between the two phases. A microemulsion does not have a particle size at the molecular level, but is more accurately described as a moving mass that mixes or separates the immiscible phases ultra-rapidly.

[0066] These surfactant-stabilized emulsions are described by PA Winsor (Chem. Rev. 1968, 68, 1, 1-40)

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the surfactant is chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase comprises one or more surfactants selected from:

[0069] capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof,

[0070] polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and glyceryl caprylate / caprate mixture,

[0071] sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and the mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said composition comprises from 75% to 100%, in particular from 80% to 90%, preferably from 95% to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin.

[0073] It is understood that the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains ingredients of natural origin representing 75 to 100% by mass of the total mass of said composition.

[0074] By "ingredient of natural origin" is meant an ingredient composed of at least one raw material of natural origin, namely as such in nature and untreated, or treated by physical and / or chemical processes authorized according to the reference of the international standard ISO 16128 (part 1), indicating guidelines relating to technical definitions and criteria applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.

[0075] The range from 75 to 100% includes the following ranges: from 75 to 80%; from 80 to 85%; from 85 to 90%; from 90 to 95%; from 95 to 100%.

[0076] The 95 to 100% range includes the following ranges: 95 to 96%; 96 to 97%; 97 to 98%; 98 to 99%; 99 to 100%.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said composition has a naturalness index of 0.95 to 1.0.

[0078] The term “naturalness index” means an index determined according to ISO 16128 (part 2), which codifies the calculations and indices of ingredients and products for determining the naturalness of a cosmetic composition.

[0079] ISO 16128 provides an international definition of naturalness, setting guidelines for natural and organic cosmetics and their ingredients. This standard provides a calculation model for determining the percentage of ingredients of natural origin, and therefore the naturalness index or percentage of naturalness, of a cosmetic composition based on the naturalness indices of the raw materials constituting said composition.

[0080] The calculation of the naturalness index of a cosmetic ingredient is generally established and communicated by the supplier of the raw material.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above in which said composition is in the form of a Winsor III type system.

[0082] In general, emulsified mixtures of aqueous solutions and liquid oils can be classified into 4 categories (Bouton et al. Langmuir. 2010, Vol 26, Num 11, pp 7962-7970, 9 p): - the Winsor I type system designates a two-phase system comprising a lower phase which is an oil-in-water (o / w) microemulsion in which the surfactant is present, and an upper oily phase containing oil; - the Winsor II type system refers to a two-phase system comprising an upper phase which is a water-in-oil (w / o) microemulsion in which the surfactant is present, and a lower aqueous phase containing excess water; - The Winsor III type system is a three-phase system comprising an upper oily phase with excess oil, a lower aqueous phase with excess water, and an intermediate phase which is a microemulsion made up of water, oil, and surfactant. The microemulsion is in equilibrium with both the aqueous and oily phases. This microemulsion is formed of interwoven sheets of aqueous and organic phases, without micelles or a predominant continuous phase. In other words, the microemulsion is said to be bicontinuous, and the number of surfactant molecule associations is made infinite so that both the aqueous and oily phases have a continuous structure; - the Winsor IV type system, finally, can be considered as a Winsor III without excess aqueous phase or oily phase: it is a single-phase system consisting of a single microemulsion.

[0083] The Winsor III type system has the following advantages - a low interfacial tension of the microemulsion, on the order of 102 to 105 N / m - maximum solubility of the system constituents achieved with the presence of a microemulsion in the Winsor III type system, - transparent liquid phases.

[0084] Thus the compositions according to the invention exhibit, when the cosmetic active ingredient is applied, performance in terms of comfort, ease of application and penetration on the skin and in terms of sensoriality.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic composition is capable of forming a single homogeneous phase in the form of an emulsion for at least a period of 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, after agitation under conditions allowing the emulsification of said composition and its homogeneous spreading on the skin, hair or nails of the consumer.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic composition forms a single homogeneous phase in the form of an emulsion for at least a period of 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, after stirring under conditions allowing emulsification and its homogeneous spreading on the skin, hair or nails of the consumer.

[0087] The duration or period "of at least one period of 30 seconds" includes the ranges of periods: from 30 seconds to 24 hours, from 30 seconds to 12 hours, from 30 seconds to 6 hours, from 30 seconds to 2 hours, from 30 seconds to 1 hour, from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, from 30 seconds to 2 minutes.

[0088] Advantageously, said period of at least 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, corresponds to the time of application of the composition in the form of said homogeneous phase by the user.

[0089] By "agitation under conditions allowing emulsification" is meant manual agitation by the user under conditions of ambient temperature (15-30°C) and atmospheric pressure, allowing the dispersion of hydrophilic and lipid phases into an emulsion.

[0090] It is understood that said emulsion in the form of a homogeneous phase is temporary and not "stable" in the kinetic and thermodynamic sense, since after less than 24 hours, said emulsion, consisting of a homogeneous phase, transforms through coalescence and maturation phenomena to return to an initial state before agitation which is thermodynamically stable, in the form of a Winsor III type three-phase system.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the aqueous phase represents 30 to 40% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0092] The 30 to 40% range includes the following ranges: from 30 to 32%; from 32 to 34%; from 34 to 36%; from 36 to 38%; from 38 to 40%.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, wherein said hydrophilic phase further comprises • a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt being obtained from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, and • ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises • a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt being obtained from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, • and is ethanol-free.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said hydrophilic phase further comprises • ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16% • and is free from any cosmetic mineral or organic salt.

[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, wherein said hydrophilic phase is free from any cosmetic mineral or organic salt and is free from ethanol.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0098] The range from 1 to 20% includes the following ranges: from 1 to 5%; from 5 to 10%; from 10 to 15%; from 15 to 20%.

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 8 to 16% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0100] The range of 8 to 16% includes the following ranges: 8 to 9%; 9 to 10%; 10 to 11%; 11 to 12%; 12 to 13%; 13 to 14%; 14 to 15%; 15 to 16%.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic mineral or organic salt results from the neutralization of an organic acid present in cosmetic products, in particular lactic acid, pidolic acid, fruit acid type organic acids, malic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, or an amino acid preferably said salt being chosen from sodium salts, in particular sodium hydroxide, potassium salts, trace elements such as copper, iron, zinc, magnesium and manganese salts.

[0102] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic mineral salt is selected from sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and their combinations

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic salt is selected from potassium lactate, potassium gluconate and trisodium ethylenediaminne disuccinate

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which said cosmetic mineral or organic salt has the function of saturating the aqueous phase in order to increase the hydrophobic character of said surfactant. Thus, said surfactant, exhibiting a more hydrophobic character, will have a greater affinity for the oily phase and will be repelled in the oil.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, comprising ethanol at a rate of 8 to 16% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, said composition being free of glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.

[0108] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the oily phase represents 20 to 35% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, wherein said natural oil or mixture of natural oils is chosen from: • a vegetable oil, • medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), • monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts • an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, • an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular chosen from terpenes, squalene and squalane, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the vegetable oil is selected from:

[0111] caprylic and capric acid triglycerides, caprylic, capric (also known as "MCT oil"), myristic and stearic acid triglycerides (INCI name: Caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic Triglyceride), triethylhexanoin, argan oil (INCI name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), jojoba oil (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), shea oil (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Oil), sweet almond oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), coconut oil (INCI name: Cocos Nucifera Oil), hydrogenated coconut oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coconut Oil), rosehip oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Seed Oil), castor seed oil (INCI name: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), carrot oil macerate (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Rool Extract), carrot seed oil (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil),apricot kernel oil (INCI name: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil), avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima Oil), karanja seed oil (INCI name: Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil), daisy oil macerate, camellia oil, particularly Japanese camellia seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Japonica Seed Oil), Camellia Kissi seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Kissi Seed Oil), monoi oil, broccoli oil (INCI name: Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil), raspberry seed oil (INCI name: Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil), sea buckthorn oil (INCI name: Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), prickly pear seed oil (INCI name: Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil), oil of blackcurrant seed (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil), blackberry oil, arnica macerate (INCI name: , Arnica Montana Flower Extract), Tamanu Oil, St. John's Wort Oil Macerate, Wheat Germ Oil (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil), Calendula Oil Macerate, Black Cumin Oil (INCI name: Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), Perilla Seed Oil (INCI name: Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil), Borage Seed Oil (INCI name: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil), Neem Oil (INCI name: Azadirachta Indica Seed Oil), Evening Primrose Oil (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis Oil), Meadowsweet Oil Macerate, Pumpkin Seed Oil (INCI name: Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil), Hazelnut Oil (INCI name: Corylus Avellana Seed Oil), Sesame Seed Oil (INCI name: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), hemp seed oil (INCI name: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil), chia vegetable oil, camelina oil (INCI name: Camelina Sativa Seed Oil), Inca Inchi oil (INCI name: Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil),Linseed oil (INCI name: Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil), macadamia nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil), grapeseed oil (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), safflower seed oil (INCI name: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), tricaprylin (or triacylglycerol), tiger nut oil (INCI name: Cyperus Esculentus Root Oil), mustard oil (INCI name: Brassica Juncea Seed Oil), plum oil (INCI name: Prunus Domestica Seed Oil), baobab oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil), meadowfoam seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), rosehip oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Fruit) Oil), soybean oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), sunflower seed oil (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), tribehenin (INCI name: tribehenin), triisostearine (INCI name: triisostearine),rice bran oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil), rice germ oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Germ Oil), hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), chayote seed oil (INCI name: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil), green tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil), moringa seed oil (INCI name: Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil), canola oil (INCI name: Canola Oil), tea seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), triheptanoin (INCI name: Triheptanoin), vanilla oil (INCI name: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil), canola oil glycerides and phytosterols (INCI name: Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides), Annatto oil (INCI name: Roucou (Bixa orellana) Oil), and mixtures thereof.

[0112] In addition, or alternatively, non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, babassu oil, Brazil nut oil, buriti oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, ajowan oil, root oil angelica, anise oil, balsamic oil, basil oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, peppermint oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypriol, murraya leaf, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, galangal, pelargonium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, grapefruit oil, henna oil, helichrysum, horseradish oil, hyssop, Idaho tansy, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemon verbena, marjoram, tea tree,lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, iris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, patchouli oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, petitgrain bigarade, pine oil, ravensara, red juniper, Roman chamomile, rose oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schizandra oil, spikenard, spruce, tangerine, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, hemlock oil, turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, giant thuja, wintergreen, yarrow oil, Alexandrian laurel oil, ylang-ylang, zedoary oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, alfalfa oil, corn germ oil, passionflower oil, poppy oil,Rye oil, sysymbrium oil, syzygium aromaticum oil.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the natural oil is selected from:

[0114] - medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0115] - monoglycerides or diglycerides of plant extracts such as coco glyceride

[0116] - naturally occurring esters such as amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, oleate ethyl, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate,

[0117] - an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular selected from terpenes, the squalene and squalane, preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0118] Advantageously, triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms, called MCT oils, are selected from: caprylic triglyceride, capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, lauric triglyceride and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Advantageously, monoglycerides or diglycerides of plant extracts are selected from: 1,2-diacyl glycerol, 1-mono-acyl glycerol; 2-mono-acyl glycerol, 1,3-diacyl glycerol and their mixture.

[0120] Naturally derived esters are preferred for the invention, given their stability, ease of formulation, and good acceptance by consumers. These may be, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, ceteraryl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, cetyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate / caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl lactate, oleyl oleate,pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl caprylate / caprate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetyl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl stéarate, amyl oléate, amyl laurate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isoamyl oléate, isopropyl stéarate, isostearyl avocadate, isostearyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stéarate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate / caprate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stéarate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate,triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate. ,

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the naturally occurring alkane is selected from:

[0122] Plant-based alkanes such as BASF's CETIOL® Ultimate (INCI name: Undecane (and) Tridecane), coconut alkanes, SEPPIC's EMOGREEEN™ products alkanes (INCI name: C15-19 Alkane).

[0123] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the naturally occurring alkane comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the surfactant(s) represent 5 to 10% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the alkylglucosides are selected from:

[0126] - arachidyl glucoside (INCI name: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside), for example MONTANOV™ 202 from Seppic,

[0127] - ascorbyl glycoside

[0128] - C8-C16 alkyl glucosides (INCI name: C10-16 Alkyl Glucoside), for example in SpecSufc™ products from SpecChem Industry,

[0129] - C12-C18 alkyl glucosides (INCI name: C12-18 Alkyl Glucoside), by example found in AE Chemie's Aecosoft® products,

[0130] - C12-C20 alkyl glucosides (INCI name: C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside), by example in the MONTANOVTM product from Seppic,

[0131] - caprylyl glucoside (INCI name: Caprylyl Glucoside), for example present in cosmetic ingredients AC8 (Alkyl polyglucoside) from SOHO ANECO Chemicals, Sucraph™ AG-8 from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL, and TP APG0810H or TP APG0810L from Tinphy New Material,

[0132] - mixtures of caprylyl glucoside and capryl glucoside (INCI name: Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside) for example present in the cosmetic ingredients of the CosVivet APG range from Brenntag Specialties (EMEA),

[0133] - cerearyl glucoside (INCI name: Cetearyl Glucoside),

[0134] - coco-glucoside (INCI name: Coco-Glucoside),

[0135] - decyl glucoside (INCI name: Decyl Glucoside), for example present in cosmetic ingredients from the CosVivet APG range by Brenntag Specialties (EMEA),

[0136] - disodium coco-glucoside citrate (INCI name: Disocium Coco-Glucoside Citrate),

[0137] - gallyl glucoside (INCI name: Gallyl Glucoside),

[0138] - glyceryl glucoside (INCI name: Glyceryl Glucoside),

[0139] - lauryl gucoside (INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside),

[0140] - maltooligosyl glucoside (INCI name: Maltooligosyl Glucoside),

[0141] - myristyl glucoside (INCI name: Myristyl Glucoside),

[0142] - raspberryketone glucoside (INCI name: Raspberryketone glucoside), for example present in EcoLite™ RKG from Ecochem.

[0143] Advantageously, said alkylglucosides are preferably selected from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the fatty acid glycerol or polyglycerol esters are selected from:

[0145] polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, and mixtures thereof;

[0146] preferably polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and glyceryl caprylate and caprate mixture.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the fatty acid glycerol or polyglycerol ether is dodecane diglycerol ether.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in which the acyl lactylates are selected from:

[0149] acyllactylates comprising from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0150] in particular behenoyl lactylates, stearoyl lactylates, isostearoyl lactylates, caproyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylates and mixtures thereof,

[0151] preferably sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and a mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, further comprising an oil-soluble and / or water-soluble colorant, preferably chosen from a natural colorant.

[0153] By way of non-limiting example, the colorant is: - betanin (INCI name: Beetroot Red) - anthocyanins (INCI name: Anthocyanins), - carrot extract (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract), - sweet potato extract (INCI name: Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract).

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, further comprising a fragrance, preferably chosen from a natural fragrance such as essential oils or any other molecule obtained by biotechnology

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, wherein said at least one cosmetic active ingredient is selected from:

[0156] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives);

[0157] - compounds showing a skin-lightening or depigmenting action such as arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone;

[0158] - compounds showing a soothing action;

[0159] - anti-inflammatory or anti-allergic agents;

[0160] - compounds showing a moisturizing action such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts;

[0161] - anti-aging and anti-wrinkle active ingredients;

[0162] - anti-dandruff agents;

[0163] - anti-acne agents;

[0164] - superfatting agents;

[0165] - compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, wheat extracts;

[0166] - plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, isoflavones or terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids;

[0167] - compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying action,

[0168] - compounds exhibiting an energizing or stimulating property,

[0169] - antioxidants and anti-photoaging actives;

[0170] - natural polymers such as xanthan gum, starch, inulin, or any other polymer obtained by biotechnology which are likely to have intrinsic properties and / or allow a slowing of the phase shift after re-emulsification of the microemulsion.

[0171] - solar filters;

[0172] - the protective agents of the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction;

[0173] - active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;

[0174] - active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical agents such as integrins;

[0175] - active ingredients creating a "heating" sensation on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products creating a "cooling" sensation on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives);

[0176] - active ingredients that improve cutaneous microcirculation, for example venotonics;

[0177] - the draining active ingredients;

[0178] - decongestant active ingredients such as ginkgo biloba extracts,

[0179] - skin tanning or browning agents,

[0180] - agents known to facilitate and / or accelerate tanning and / or for the browning of human skin, and / or for their action in coloring human skin, for example caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), tyrosine and / or its derivatives,

[0181] - agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, for example protective agents for melanocytes in the hair follicle, intended to protect said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, or for example agents promoting hair regrowth or for example anti-hair loss agents,

[0182] - agents that combat glycation,

[0183] - agents stimulating the synthesis of collagen or elastin or preventing their degradation,

[0184] - agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans or proteoglycans or preventing their degradation, anti-radical or anti-pollution agents, detoxifying agents, desquamating agents, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, astringent agents,

[0185] - and their mixtures.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as defined above, in the form of a single homogeneous phase consisting of an emulsion stable for at least a period of 30 seconds after stirring under conditions allowing the emulsification of said composition of the invention as defined above.

[0187] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a single homogeneous phase consisting of an emulsion stable for at least 30 seconds, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, said cosmetic composition being constituted or comprising:

[0188] an aqueous phase • representing 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 30 to 40% • possibly a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a rate of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt resulting from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, • possibly ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, • free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form selected from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form comprising 2 to 12 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycols, • an oily phase • representing 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 20 to 35%, • an oil or a blend of natural oils, specifically chosen from: • a vegetable oil, • medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), • monoglycerides or diglycerides from plant extracts • an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, • a naturally occurring alkane or alkene, in particular terpenes, squalane and squalene, especially comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil, • one or more surfactants • representing 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 5 to 10%,

[0189] selected from alkyl polyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycetol or polyglycerol of fatty acids of natural origin and acyl lactylates, preferably with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol,

[0190] in particular selected from

[0191] capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof,

[0192] polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and glyceryl caprylate / caprate mixture,

[0193] sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and mixtures of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, - possibly a dye, - possibly a perfume, - at least one active cosmetic ingredient,

[0194] said emulsion being of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition such as defined above, in which said composition comprises from 75% to 100%, in particular from 80% to 90%, preferably from 95% to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin according to ISO 16128.

[0196] Another object of the present invention relates to a method for formulating a cosmetic composition in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75%, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, comprising the following steps: a. A step of preparing an equimass mixture of an aqueous phase (50% w / w) and an oily phase (50% w / w) comprising neither surfactant, nor salt, nor ethanol, b. a step of forming an emulsion of the mixture by adding a surfactant, in particular 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition, until a white emulsion of the mixture is obtained, c. a step of adding a second surfactant, called a cosurfactant, and / or ethanol and / or salt until the white emulsion is demixed and a Winsor I, II, or III type composition is obtained at ambient temperature and preferably between 15 and 30 degrees Celsius d. a visual step to determine the type of Winsor I, II or III composition obtained

[0197] el) when a Winsor I type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of the oil phase, a repeat step of steps b, c and d with a hydrophilic surfactant until a Winsor III type composition is obtained

[0198] e2) when a Winsor II type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of water, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a lipophilic surfactant until a Winsor III type composition is obtained,

[0199] e3) when a Winsor III type composition is obtained, possibly a step adjusting the volumes of the different phases,

[0200] f) a step of determining the contents of the constituents of said Winsor III type composition by mass relative to the total mass of the composition in order to obtain the formulation of a cosmetic composition in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system.

[0201] In step a), the use of an equimass ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase makes it possible not to influence the surfactant system towards one or the other of said phases.

[0202] In step b), the addition of the surfactant makes it possible to obtain said white emulsion which is made up of micelles (which interact with visible light (by absorption) and which makes the system opalescent or opaque).

[0203] In step c), the addition of a second surfactant, salts or ethanol makes it possible to break down said rigid micellar associations in order to fluidize the water / oil / surfactant interface to form said microemulsion.

[0204] Advantageously in step c) said second surfactant may be identical to the surfactant used in step b).

[0205] The inventors have surprisingly discovered the possibility of obtaining the formulation of a Winsor III type three-phase liquid composition with ingredients that are solely or predominantly of natural origin, without first constructing the phase diagram of the constituents, and starting from an equimass mixture of the aqueous and oily phases. Indeed, conventionally, to determine the limits of narrow concentration zones of the species in which such a three-phase system is present, it is necessary to establish the phase diagram or perform complex calculations based on the characteristics and physicochemical properties of all the ingredients constituting the system.

[0206] Moreover, unexpectedly, the inventors observed that once the composition is fixed by the thermodynamics of the three-phase system in a stable state, the introduction of the active ingredient will generally have a weak influence on the stability of the system and in a remediable way since in the latter its solubility is in principle maximal.

[0207] This method according to the invention for formulating a cosmetic composition allows for significant and advantageous savings in time and resources.

[0208] It is known to those skilled in the art that surfactants are amphiphilic but can be conventionally characterized by the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB). Each surfactant is rated on a scale from 0 to 20 according to its solubility in water.

[0209] For the purposes of this invention, "lipophilic surfactant" means a surfactant having an HLB index of 0 to 9.

[0210] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrophilic surfactant" means a surfactant having an HLB index of 11 to 20.

[0211] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, for formulating a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above in the form of a three-phase system.

[0212] Another object of the present invention relates to a method for formulating a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above, in the form of a three-phase system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, comprising the following steps: a. A step of preparing an equimass mixture of an aqueous phase (50% w / w) and an oily phase (50% w / w) comprising neither surfactant, nor salt, nor ethanol, b. a step of forming an emulsion of the mixture by adding a surfactant, in particular 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition, until a white emulsion of the mixture is obtained, c. a step of adding a second surfactant, called a cosurfactant, and / or ethanol and / or salt until the white emulsion is demixed and a Winsor I, II, or III type composition is obtained, d. a step to determine the type of Winsor composition obtained: I, II or III

[0213] el) when a Winsor I type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of the oil phase, a repeat step of steps b, c and d with a hydrophilic surfactant until a Winsor III type composition is obtained

[0214] e2) when a Winsor II type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of water, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a lipophilic surfactant until a Winsor III type composition is obtained,

[0215] e3) when a Winsor III type composition is obtained, possibly a step adjusting the volumes of the different phases,

[0216] f) a step of determining the contents of the constituents of said Winsor III type composition by mass relative to the total mass of the composition in order to obtain the formulation of a cosmetic composition in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system.

[0217] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, wherein in step a) the aqueous phase is free or comprises less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form selected from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, in particular free from or comprising less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form, comprising 3 to 12 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycols.

[0218] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, wherein in step a) the oily phase consists of a compound or a mixture of compounds selected from:

[0219] - a vegetable oil,

[0220] - medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils),

[0221] - monoglycerides or diglycerides of vegetable extract,

[0222] - an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin natural,

[0223] - an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular terpenes, squalene, of preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0224] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which the surfactant(s) are chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of fatty acid of natural origin and acyl lactylates, in particular of molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol.

[0225] Preferably chosen from

[0226] capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof,

[0227] polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate mixture, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and glyceryl caprylate / caprate mixture,

[0228] sodium behenoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and mixtures of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate,

[0229] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which said salt is chosen from:

[0230] sodium salts, in particular sodium hydroxide, potassium salts, trace elements such as copper, iron, zinc, magnesium and manganese salts,

[0231] preferably selected from: sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and their combinations.

[0232] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, in which the total amount of salt added is from 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 8 to 16%.

[0233] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method as defined above, wherein the total amount of ethanol added is 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the composition, preferably 8 to 16%. Optionally, the addition of ethanol is not necessary if the natural equilibrium of the aqueous / oily / surfactant phase system allows it.

[0234] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, prepared according to the formulation determined according to the method as defined above for formulating a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0235] Another object of the present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, comprising a step of mixing the constituents of the formulation determined according to the method according to the invention to formulate a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0236] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, capable of being obtained by the process of preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as defined above.

[0237] EXAMPLES AND FIGURES Figures

[0238] [Fig. 1] represents an illustrative diagram of the method for formulating a cosmetic composition in the form of a Winsor III type system.

[0239] [Fig.2] represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of pure olive oil and a cosmetic composition based on olive oil formulated in Winsor III, according to sensory tests on skin carried out with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0240] [Fig.3] represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and of a cosmetic composition formulated in Winsor III based on Oxismooth® CP, according to sensory tests on skin with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0241] [Fig.4] represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of the cosmetic ingredient Vegelight™ Silk and of a cosmetic composition formulated in Winsor III based on Vegelight™ Silk, according to sensory tests on skin with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0242] [Fig.5] represents the comparative analysis diagram of the sensory profiles of isopropyl myristate (IPM) and a cosmetic composition formulated in Winsor III based on isopropyl myristate, according to sensory tests on skin with the “EBItouch®” kit for the descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0243] Examples

[0244] Example 1: Determining how to formulate a Winsor III type composition

[0245] Description of the general preparation method using the example of [Fig.1].

[0246] Step a)

[0247] In a tube, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the hydrophilic ingredients, ensuring that the hydrophilic ingredients are soluble when added together in water. A hydrophilic dye is added.

[0248] In a second tube, the oily phase is prepared by mixing the lipophilic ingredients, ensuring that the lipophilic ingredients are soluble when added together to the oily phase.

[0249] In each of the two tubes, the two phases, oily and aqueous respectively, are homogeneous and translucent (see photo (1)). The aqueous phase is colored in the example of [Fig. 1] in order to differentiate the different phases.

[0250] The two phases are introduced into a tube (photo (2)).

[0251] In order not to influence the surfactant system towards the aqueous or oily phase, the phases are introduced with a 50 / 50 ratio by weight.

[0252] Step b)

[0253] An emulsion of the mixture is formed by adding the surfactant until the emulsion is stabilized, i.e. until the system no longer creates foam and becomes visually opaque (photo (3)).

[0254] Step c)

[0255] In order to break down the micellar aggregates and make the water / oil / surfactant interface more fluid, a second surfactant, called a co-surfactant, or a salt or ethanol is added, allowing the microemulsion to form. The system becomes translucent, the viscosity drops sharply, and the phase separation appears with transparency of the media (photos (4)).

[0256] Step d)

[0257] A Winsor III type system forms at equilibrium (photo (5)).

[0258] Example 2: Formulation of a Winsor III type composition 1 for skin.

[0259] In a tube, an aqueous phase consisting of water and an oily phase consisting of isoamyl caprylate / caprate (Oxismooth® CP) were introduced in an equi-mass ratio of 50 / 50. The two phases were emulsified, and the surfactant polyglyceryl-4-laurate was added gram by gram until a single, opaque, white phase was formed, without foaming. Ethanol and magnesium sulfate were added gradually until phase separation and the formation of a stable microemulsion were observed. Once the system was stabilized in a Winsor III-type system, the list of ingredients allowed the formulation of composition 1 to be established.

[0260] The list of ingredients is shown in Table 1.

[0261] Table 1 below lists the ingredients of Winsor type composition 1 III prepared for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0262] [Tables 1] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 35.40 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 2.65 Durosoft® PG4L-SG Polyglyceryl 4 laurate 5.30 Ethanol Ethanol 12.40 Oxismooth® CP Isoamyl Caprylate / caprate 44.25 TOTAL 100.00

[0263] Table 1: Winsor III type composition 1 for skin

[0264] Example 3: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 1 for skin

[0265] Since a Winsor-type microemulsion is thermodynamically stable, the order of incorporation of the ingredients is of little importance once the formulation has been determined.

[0266] Generally the salt is dissolved in water, then ethanol is added, then the surfactant and finally the oil.

[0267] Composition 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under low stirring until the Winsor III type system phase changes were obtained.

[0268] The naturalness index according to ISO 16 128 of composition 1 of type Winsor III for skin reported in table 1 is 1.0.

[0269] Indeed, composition 1 was prepared solely with cosmetic ingredients having an index of 1.0 according to ISO 16128.

[0270] Example 4: Winsor III type composition 2 for skin

[0271] Table 2 below lists the ingredients of Winsor type composition 2 III intended for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0272] The calculated naturalness index of composition 2 is 0.995 according to ISO 16128.

[0273] [Tables2] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 27.6 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 8.50 Sodium chloride 0.30 Unicert Red K7057-J CI 45410 0.20 Stepan-mild® GCC Glyceryl caprylate / caprate 23.40 Ethanol 11.30 Sweet almond oil 14.20 Argan oil 14.20 Neolone™ PH100 ​​Phenoxyethanol 0.30 TOTAL 100.00

[0274] Table 2: Winsor III type composition 2 for skin

[0275] Composition 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under low stirring until the Winsor III type system phase changes were obtained.

[0276] Example 5: Winsor III type composition 3 for skin

[0277] Table 3 below lists the ingredients of Winsor-type composition 3 III intended for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0278] [Tables3] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 40.90 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 15.80 Marine collagen Hydrolyzed Collagen 1.00 StemProtect® POLYSORBATE 20 and METHYLAC ETYL METHYLPROPANOYL ETHYLCARBAMATE and MORING A OLEIFERA SEED EXTRACT 2.00 Natural Color Classic Green P - 0.15 Durosoft® PG4L-SG Polyglyceryl 4 laurate 7.90 Ethanol Ethanol 10.55 Sweet almond oil Sweet almond oil 10.55 Oxismooth® CO Isoamyl Cocoate 10.55 Vetyver & pink pepper Fragrance 0.60 TOTAL 100.00

[0279] Table 3: Winsor III type composition 3 for skin

[0280] The calculated naturalness index of composition 3 is 0.986 according to ISO standard 16128.

[0281] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under low stirring until the Winsor III type system phase changes were obtained.

[0282] Example 6: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 4 for hair

[0283] Table 4 below lists the ingredients of Winsor type composition 4 III intended for cosmetic application for hair.

[0284] [Tables4] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 36.29 Dissolvine® GLDA Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.50 Glycerin Glycerin 0.90 Protein extract Protein extract 2.00 Vitamin B 5 D-Panthenol 0.56 FD&C Red n°40 07700 C CI 16035 1.00 Durosoft® PG4L-SG Polyglycerol 4 laurate 4.30 Ethanol Ethanol 8.45 Durosoft® PG10-CY Polyglyceryl 10 caprylate 1.40 Vegelight™ 1214LC Undecane & tridecane 41.30 DL-a-Tocopherol Tocopherol 0.10 Sweet Almond Oil Sweet Almond Oil 3.00 Parfum Fragrance 0.20 TOTAL 100

[0285] Table 4: Winsor III type Composition 4 for hair

[0286] The calculated naturalness index of composition 4 is 0.983 according to ISO 16128.

[0287] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under low stirring until the Winsor III type system phase changes were obtained.

[0288] Example 7: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 5 for hair

[0289] Table 5 below lists the ingredients of Winsor type composition 5 III intended for cosmetic application for hair.

[0290] [Tables5] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 24.40 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 0.75 Lactic acid solution 40% Water (and) Lactic Acid 5.00 Protein extract Protein extract 2.00 Vitamin B5 D-Panthenol 0.56 FD&C Red No. 40 07700C CI 16035 1.00 Stepan-mild® GCC Glyceryl caprylate / caprate 6.00 Ethanol Ethanol 12.55 Vegelight™1214LC Undecane & tridecane 47.44 DL-a-Tocopherol Tocopherol 0.10 Parfum Fragrance 0.20 TOTAL 100.00

[0291] Table 5: Winsor III type Composition 5 for hair

[0292] The calculated naturalness index of composition 5 is 0.989 according to ISO standard 16128.

[0293] The composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under low stirring until the Winsor III type system phase changes were obtained.

[0294] Example 8: Preparation of a Winsor III type composition 6 for hair

[0295] Table 6 below lists the ingredients of Winsor type composition 6 III intended for cosmetic application for hair.

[0296] [Tableauxô] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 36.00 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 0.67 FD&C Red No. 40 07700C CI 16035 0.67 Stepan-mild® GCC Glyceryl caprylate / caprate 12.00 Ethanol 10.66 Vegelight™ 1214LC Undecane & tridecane 40.00 TOTAL 100

[0297] Table 6: Winsor III type Composition 6 for hair

[0298] The calculated naturalness index of composition 6 is 0.993 according to ISO 16128.

[0299] The composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in the table in the order under low stirring until the phase changes of the Winsor III type system are obtained.

[0300] Example 9: Sensory tests

[0301] Materials and methods

[0302] The sensory profile is determined by a sample of trained subjects and with the "EBItouch®" kit, marketed by the School of Industrial Biology (49 avenue des Genottes, CS90009, 95895 Cergy-Pontoise, France). 18 people make up the sample of trained subjects.

[0303] The “EBItouch®” kit has “terminals”, which are reference products, for each sensory evaluation criterion, otherwise designated by “descriptor”.

[0304] Regarding each of these descriptors, the kit includes a terminal "0", corresponding to the minimum sensation of the descriptor, and a terminal "10" corresponding to the maximum sensation of the descriptor.

[0305] Each subject applies the products to be evaluated (a minimum of 2) to the anterior surface of their forearm, spreading approximately 0.02 grams of each product into a disc approximately 5 cm in diameter. All descriptors are evaluated simultaneously during the following six steps: appearance of the product, product intake, product application, immediately after product application, one minute after application, and two minutes after application.

[0306] The evaluations of the subjects undergo statistical processing to establish, for each descriptor, a mean, corresponding to the "score" of the descriptor, a standard deviation, and the value of the parameter "p".

[0307] The different descriptors analyzed in these tests are as follows: - Soapy effect (The product is placed between the thumb and forefinger and rubbed together, as in a finger snap. With this soapy effect, there is no mechanical resistance between them; the product facilitates movement between the thumb and forefinger. Without this soapy effect, there is mechanical resistance between them; the product hinders movement between the thumb and forefinger.) - Spreading (If the product spreads, then between the 5th and 10th hand rotation, there is no resistance to movement between the index finger and the skin. If the product does not spread, then between the 5th and 10th hand rotation, there is resistance to movement between the index finger and the skin.) - Oily (By pinching the skin between the thumb and forefinger, we assess the thickness of the product between the fingers (0 = the skin does not have any product.)) - Stickiness (Evaluated by repeatedly pressing and releasing the finger from the back of the hand. If this sticky effect is present, then adhesion is felt between these two surfaces. If this sticky effect is absent, then no adhesion is felt between these two surfaces). - Softness (When running the product over the back of the hand, a dry but slippery sensation is felt if the product is soft. None A dry and slippery sensation is only felt if the product lacks softness. - Absorption (In the case of a product with absorption, when applying the product to the skin, the product disappears and no residue remains. In the case of a product without absorption, when applying the product to the skin, a residue of the product is felt between the finger and the back of the hand).

[0308] Example 10: Olive oil

[0309] The sensory profile of an olive oil and the sensory profile of a Winsor III type solution based on olive oil according to the invention were carried out according to the tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit.

[0310] The diagram in [Fig.2] represents the sensory profile of olive oil and that of a Winsor III type solution based on olive oil according to the invention, allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following characteristics: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0311] Neither solution showed a soapy effect.

[0312] In terms of skin absorption, spreadability, and softness, sensory tests indicate a beneficial feel and a superior effect of the solution of the invention compared to simple olive oil. In particular, the product of the invention has an absorption effect more than twice that of olive oil.

[0313] The olive oil solution has a superior greasy and sticky sensory effect compared to the solution of the invention.

[0314] The solution of the invention in the form of Winsor III based on olive oil notably loses the sticky effect felt with pure olive oil.

[0315] For your information, with regard to cosmetic products, the consumer does not expect a soapy effect. They are looking for easy and therefore high spreadability, a product that is not very oily or not oily, not very sticky or not sticky, good absorption (no residue) and a good softness.

[0316] The composition of the invention in the form of a Winsor III type three-phase solution fulfills the criteria sought mentioned above with more advantageous or novel sensory properties compared to those of the pure oil used in the composition.

[0317] Example 11: Sensory profile of a Winsor III solution based on Oxismooth® CP

[0318] A Winsor III type composition based on Oxismooth® CP for the skin has been prepared.

[0319] Table 7 below lists the ingredients of Composition 7 of Winsor III type based on Oxismooth® CP, intended for cosmetic application to the skin.

[0320] [Tables7] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 35.4 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 2.65 Durosoft® PG4L-SG Polyglycerol 4 laurate 5.3 Ethanol 12.4 Oxismooth® CP Isoamyl Caprylate / caprate 44.25 TOTAL 100

[0321] Table 7: Winsor III type composition 7 for skin based on Oxismooth® CP

[0322] The sensory tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit were carried out on the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and composition 7 according to the invention of type Winsor III based on Oxismooth® CP.

[0323] Fig. 3 represents on the same 5-entry diagram the sensory profile of the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and that of the cosmetic composition 7 formulated in Winsor III based on Oxismooth® CP, allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0324] Neither solution showed a sticky effect.

[0325] Although composition 7 comprises 44% Oxismooth® CP, in terms In terms of absorption felt on the skin, it presents a sensory effect similar to the pure Oxismooth® CP product.

[0326] For spreading, composition 7 shows an effect of a 1 point reduction in index while for the greasy effect a reduction of half the index is obtained compared to the Oxismooth® CP product.

[0327] Composition 7 has an improved softening effect compared to the Oxismooth® CP product.

[0328] The composition of the invention in the form of a Winsor III type three-phase solution fulfills the criteria sought mentioned above with more advantageous or novel sensory properties compared to those of the pure oil used in the composition.

[0329] Example 12: Sensory profile of a Winsor III solution based on Vegelight™ Silk.

[0330] A Winsor III type composition 8 based on Vegelight™ Silk for The hair was prepared.

[0331] Table 8 below lists the ingredients of Composition 8 of Winsor III type based on Vegelight™ Silk, intended for cosmetic application for hair.

[0332] [Tables8] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 36.5 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 0.7 Stepan-mild® GCC Glyceryl caprylate / caprate 12 Ethanol Ethanol 10.8 Vegelight™ silk Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 40 TOTAL 100

[0333] Table 8: Winsor III type composition 8 for hair based on Vegelight™ Silk

[0334] The sensory tests described above with the “EBItouch®” kit were carried out on the cosmetic ingredient Oxismooth® CP and the Winsor III type composition 8 according to the invention based on Oxismooth® CP.

[0335] Figure 4 represents on the same 5-entry diagram the sensory profile of the cosmetic ingredient Vegelight™ Silk and that of the cosmetic composition 8 formulated in Winsor III based on Vegelight™ Silk, allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptions: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0336] Neither solution showed a sticky effect.

[0337] Composition 8 enables the oily appearance of the cosmetic ingredient Vegelight™ Silk.

[0338] In terms of spreadability, absorption and softness, composition 8 is superior 2 to 3 index points compared to the pure form of the Vegelight™ Silk ingredient.

[0339] Example 13: Sensory profile of a Winsor III solution based on isopropyl myristate (IPM)

[0340] A Winsor III type composition 9 based on isopropyl myristate (IPM) for nails, according to the invention, has been prepared.

[0341] Table 9 below lists the ingredients of Composition 9 of type Winsor III based on isopropyl myristate (IPM), intended for cosmetic application for nails.

[0342] [Tables9] INCI Name Mass (%) Water Aqua 26.6 Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 5.3 Durosoft® PG4L-SG Polyglycerol 4 laurate 7.5 IPM Isopropyl Myristate 46.0 Ethanol Ethanol 14.5 TOTAL 100.0

[0343] Table 9: Winsor III type composition 9 based on isopropyl myristate (IPM) for nails

[0344] The sensory tests described above with the "EBItouch®" kit were carried out on isopropyl myristate (IPM) and composition 9 according to the invention of type Winsor III based on isopropyl myristate (IPM).

[0345] Fig. 5 represents on the same 5-entry diagram the sensory profile of isopropyl myristate (IPM) and that of cosmetic composition 9 formulated in Winsor III based on isopropyl myristate (IPM), allowing a comparison between the two profiles for the following descriptors: spreadability, oiliness, stickiness, softness and absorption.

[0346] Neither solution showed a sticky effect.

[0347] Composition 9 exhibits a superior effect for spreading, absorption and softness compared to the pure isopropyl myristate (IPM) product and a half-greasy effect.

[0348] In conclusion, advantageously the solutions of the invention of examples 10 to 13 in Winsor III form:

[0349] - loses its sticky sensory appearance,

[0350] - reduces or loses the oily effect,

[0351] - while improving the absorption and softness effect compared to the base oil used,

[0352] - with a high spreading index of 8 to 9.

Claims

1. Demands Cosmetic composition in the form of a three-phase system, in particular in the form of a Winsor III type system, of which at least 75% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition is of natural origin, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably greater than 95%, said cosmetic composition being constituted or comprising: - a hydrophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an aqueous phase representing 15 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 30 to 40%, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of polyol in liquid form selected from glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, - a lipophilic phase consisting of or comprising • an oily phase representing 10 to 50% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 20 to 35% by weight, • a natural oil or a blend of natural oils, preferably based on vegetable oils or emollients, • free from or containing less than 1% by mass of silicone and mineral oil - a microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase, comprising • one or more surfactants representing 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 5 to 10%, chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, esters or ethers of glycerol or polyglycerol of naturally occurring fatty acids and acyl lactylates, in particular with a molar mass of 200 to 450 g / mol, - possibly a dye, - possibly a perfume, - at least one active cosmetic ingredient.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said microemulsion of the hydrophilic phase and the lipophilic phase comprises one or more surfactants selected from capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, a mixture of polyglyceryl-10 caprylate and caprate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate and a mixture of glyceryl caprylate and caprate, behenoyl sodium lactylate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate,sodium lauroyl lactylate and a mixture of sodium caproyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein said composition has a naturalness index of 0.95 to 1.0 according to ISO 16128.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said composition is in the form of a Winsor III type system.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said cosmetic composition is capable of forming a single homogeneous phase in the form of an emulsion for at least a period of 30 seconds, in particular from 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, after agitation under conditions permitting the emulsification of said composition and its homogeneous spreading on the skin, hair or nails of the consumer.

6. Composition according to claims 1 to 5, wherein said hydrophilic phase further comprises: • a cosmetic mineral or organic salt at a concentration of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt being obtained from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, and • ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% in the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%.

7. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, wherein said hydrophilic phase further comprises • a cosmetic mineral or organic salt in a quantity of 1 to 20% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16%, preferably said salt is obtained from the neutralization of an organic acid whose cosmetic properties have been previously established, • and is free of ethanol.

8. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, wherein said hydrophilic phase further comprises • ethanol at a rate of 5 to 20% by mass of the total mass e of the cosmetic composition, preferably 8 to 16% • and is free from any cosmetic mineral or organic salt.

9. Composition according to claim 1 to 5, wherein said hydrophilic phase is free from any cosmetic mineral or organic salt and is free from ethanol.

10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein said natural oil or mixture of natural oils is selected from: • a vegetable oil, • medium-chain triglycerides comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms (called MCT oils), • monoglycerides or diglycerides of vegetable extracts, • an emollient ester of natural origin, preferably a fatty acid ester of natural origin, in particular amyl oleate, isoamyl oleate, ethyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, isoamyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, • an alkane or alkene of natural origin, in particular selected from terpenes, squalene and squalane, in particular comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

11. A method for formulating a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, in the form of a three-phase system of

12. Winsor III type, of which at least 75%, in particular 80 to 90%, preferably 95 to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, comprising the following steps: a. A step of preparing an equimass mixture of an aqueous phase (50% w / w) and an oily phase (50% w / w) comprising neither surfactant, nor salt, nor ethanol, b. a step of forming an emulsion of the mixture by adding a surfactant, in particular 2 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the composition, until a white emulsion of the mixture is obtained, c. a step of adding a second surfactant, called a cosurfactant, and / or ethanol and / or salt until the white emulsion is demixed and a Windsor I, II, or III type composition is obtained at ambient terrestrial temperature and preferably between 15 and 30 degrees Celsius d. a visual step to determine the type of Winsor I, II or III composition obtained (el) when a Winsor I type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of the oil phase, a repeat step of steps b, c and d with a hydrophilic surfactant until a Winsor III type composition is obtained e2) when a Winsor II type composition is obtained, indicating an excess of water, a step of repeating steps b, c and d with a lipophilic surfactant until a Winsor III type composition is obtained, e3) when a Winsor III type composition is obtained, possibly a step of adjusting the volumes of the different phases, f) a step of determining the contents of the constituents of said Winsor III type composition by mass relative to the total mass of the composition in order to obtain the formulation of a cosmetic composition in the form of a thermodynamically stable three-phase system. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein at least 75%, preferably 95% to 100%, by mass of the total mass of the composition is of natural origin, comprising a step of mixing the constituents of the formulation determined according to the method according to claim 11 for formulating a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

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