COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SOLID FATTY ETHER, A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT AND A POLYSACCHARIDE OF MICROBIAL ORIGIN

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising a solid fatty ether, a chemical oxidizing agent, and a polysaccharide of microbial origin. The invention further relates to a composition comprising at least one solid fatty ether, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a solid fatty ether, a chemical oxidizing agent, and a polysaccharide of microbial origin

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one solid fatty ether, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin.

[0002] In cosmetics, in the fields of dyeing, bleaching and permanent transformation or deformation of keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, oxidizing compositions are used.

[0003] Thus, in oxidative hair dyeing, oxidizing compositions are mixed with oxidative dyes (bases and couplers), which are colorless in themselves, to generate colored and coloring compounds through an oxidative condensation process. Oxidizing compositions are also used in direct hair dyeing in mixtures with certain direct dyes that are colored and coloring to obtain a hair lightening effect. Among the oxidizing agents classically used for dyeing keratin fibers are hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide, persalts like perborates and persulfates, with hydrogen peroxide being particularly preferred.

[0004] In hair bleaching, bleaching compositions contain one or more oxidizing agents. Among these oxidizing agents, the most commonly used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts like perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, with hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.

[0005] These compositions may be aqueous compositions containing alkaline agents (amines or ammonia) which are diluted at the time of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide.

[0006] These compositions can also be formed from anhydrous products which contain alkali compounds (alkaline amines and silicates), and a peroxygenated reagent such as persulfates, perborates or percarbonates, of ammonium or alkali metals, which are diluted at the time of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide.

[0007] In permanent hair deformation, initially, one carries out The process begins by opening the disulfide bonds (-SS-) of keratin (cystine) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction step). After rinsing the treated hair, the disulfide bonds are then re-established by applying an oxidizing composition to the hair, which has been previously held under tension (using curlers or other styling tools). This oxidation step, also known as the fixing step, ultimately gives the hair the desired shape. This technique allows for the creation of waves, straightening, or backcombing of the hair. The new shape imposed on the hair by this chemical treatment is exceptionally long-lasting and resists washing with water or shampooing, unlike simple, traditional techniques of temporary deformation, such as setting hair.

[0008] The oxidizing compositions required for the implementation of the fixation step are most often hydrogen peroxide-based compositions.

[0009] We seek to obtain ever more effective oxidizing compositions, while respecting as much as possible the integrity of the keratin fibers and giving said fibers the best possible cosmetic properties.

[0010] There is also a real need to offer consumers environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account. This is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and / or ingredients, thereby addressing these environmental issues, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin.

[0011] Furthermore, in order to preserve natural resources and in particular water, it is in the interest to propose compositions which make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, particularly when using the product, while also improving its performance properties.

[0012] It is also important to obtain oxidizing compositions that are stable during storage and during the processing and application time, that are easily distributed throughout the hair, that allow for a homogeneous result from root to tip, that rinse easily while providing a pleasant experience, for example, a creamy, smooth, shiny texture.

[0013] The applicant discovered that it was possible to achieve the desired properties with a composition comprising at least one solid fatty ether, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and at least one polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin.

[0014] Such a composition is stable over time and has a homogeneous texture which facilitates the application of the composition to the hair fibers.

[0015] The compositions according to the invention have a smooth, creamy texture and are shiny. They have an opaque character allowing the product to be localized on the hair.

[0016] The composition of the invention is particularly intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0017] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a hair coloring process or a hair styling process.

[0018] In the context of hair coloring / bleaching, it allows a good lightening effect to be obtained on keratin fibers without degrading them and without altering their cosmetic properties.

[0019] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention exhibits good stability over time, particularly when stored under the effect of heat, for example at temperatures equal to 45 °C.

[0020] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular a process for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, using this composition.

[0021] The invention also relates to a hair styling method using this composition.

[0022] Another object of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular the coloring or bleaching of keratin fibers or for hair styling.

[0023] In what follows, unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of the indicated intervals are included in the invention.

[0024] By "at least one", we mean one or more.

[0025] By "stable" is meant a composition which does not show any significant change in appearance, odor, pH, and / or rheology after storage, in particular after storage for 2 months at 4°C. Among the changes in appearance, we can mention in particular phase separation, precipitation, creaming. Solid fatty ether

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty ether(s).

[0027] Preferably, solid fatty ethers have the formula (I) RO-R' in which R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, R and R' comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. The fatty ether useful in the present invention is a solid fatty ether.

[0028] By “solid fatty ether”, we mean a solid fatty ether at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).

[0029] Preferably, the ether is chosen from compounds in which the radicals R and R', identical or different, designate an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, in C8-C40, preferably in C10-C30, more preferably in C14-C24.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the radicals R and R', identical or not, are radicals derived from oleic (Cl8), caprylic (C8), capric (ClO), lauric (C12), palmitic (C16), myristic (C14), behenic (C22), stearic (Cl8), linoleic (Cl8), linolenic (Cl8), arachidic (C20) alcohols.

[0031] Preferably, R and R' are saturated.

[0032] Preferably, R and R' represent a linear alkyl radical in C8-C40, preferably in C10-C30, more preferably in C14-C24.

[0033] More specifically, R and R' are identical.

[0034] Preferably, R and R' are identical and represent a linear alkyl radical in C14-C24, better R and R' denote a linear alkyl radical in Ci6-C22, better still derived from stearic alcohol (C18).

[0035] More preferably, the ethers usable according to the invention have a melting point above 50°C.

[0036] The fatty ethers usable according to the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions, but preferably they are insoluble.

[0037] These compounds can be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 41 27 230.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty ether is the distearylether or diactode-cylether, and corresponds to the above formula in which R and R' represent a CH3(CH2)i7 group.

[0039] The solid fatty ether(s) according to the invention are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 15% by weight, even better from 3 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Chemical oxidizing agent

[0040] The composition of the invention comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0041] The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0042] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is / are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, alkali or alkaline earth metal or ammonium percarbonates, peracids and their precursors and mixtures, preferably from hydrogen peroxide, alkali or alkaline earth metal or ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] The chemical oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0044] The total concentration of chemical oxidizing agent(s) may vary more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, the hydrogen peroxide content varies from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0046] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 1 to 13, and preferably from 1.5 to 12.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4.

[0048] According to another embodiment in which the composition of the invention contains an alkaline agent, the pH of the composition is generally between 7-14, preferably 9 and 13. Polysaccharide of microbial origin

[0049] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin.

[0050] By microbial polysaccharide, we mean a polysaccharide derived from microorganism(s), such as bacteria, yeasts, fungi, microalgae.

[0051] Polysaccharides of microbial origin are in particular selected from: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Preferably, the microbial polysaccharide(s) useful in the composition according to the invention is / are chosen from scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof, more preferably scleroglucan gum.

[0053] The polysaccharide(s) useful in the composition of the invention are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0054] Preferably, the polysaccharides of microbial origin are selected from scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof, and are present in a total content of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, better 0.3 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0055] More preferably, the polysaccharide of microbial origin is the gum of scleroglucan, present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Alkyl(poly)glycoside

[0056] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0057] By "alkyl(poly)glycoside" is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also called alkylglycoside in the present application, which may be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably at C2 to C4.

[0058] The alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) can be represented by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar motif containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0059] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are compounds of the formula described above, in which: - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0060] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.

[0061] Among the commercial products, examples include the products sold by COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; the products sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK; and the products sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO. CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB, products sold by SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14 or Montanov® 202, or products sold by BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.

[0062] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides selected from, alone or in mixture, the (alkyl C6-C24)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly the (alkyl C8-C18)(poly)glycosides, preferably selected from coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside.

[0063] We particularly prefer alkyl C8 / C18-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular the compounds with INCI names coco glucoside and cetearyl glucoside and their mixtures.

[0064] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides, the total alkyl(poly)glycoside content varies preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactant

[0065] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from fatty amines, more preferably from fatty amidoamines.

[0066] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0067] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0068] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention the amidoamines of the following formula (I): RCONHR”N(R')2 (I) in which: - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0069] Fatty amidoamines of formula (I) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, laura-midopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0071] The fatty amidoamine(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvent

[0072] The composition of the invention generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvent(s).

[0073] Among suitable organic solvents, particular mention may be made of non-aromatic monoalcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, or polyols such as glycerol. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, and mixtures of all these compounds may also be used as solvents.

[0074] Water and the organic solvents described above, if present, usually represent 30 to 95% by weight, more preferably 40 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic agent(s)

[0075] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more additional cosmetic agent(s).

[0076] The additional cosmetic agent(s) may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, other than polysaccharides according to the invention; anionic surfactants, in particular sulfate, sulfonate or carboxylate surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, fats, in particular fatty alcohols.

[0077] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0078] The additional cosmetic agents above are generally present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Preferably, the composition is in the form of a cream.

[0080] The composition according to the invention may advantageously have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 2 to 20 Pa.s, preferably ranging from 2 to 15 Pa.s and even more preferably ranging from 2.5 to 10 Pa.s.

[0081] The viscosity of the composition can be determined at 25°C using a Rhéomat 180 type rotary viscometer (Jean LAMY SA) equipped with an anchor / bucket type surveyor Mobile 3 (MS-r 3) or Mobile 4 (MS-r4) with a rotation speed of 200 revolutions / minute and using the calibration curves provided by the viscometer supplier.

[0082] When the composition of the invention is used for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, it can be mixed at the time of use with an alkaline agent.

[0083] Thus, according to this embodiment, the composition of the invention may include an alkaline agent. Alkaline agent

[0084] The alkali agent can be chosen from one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agent(s).

[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.

[0086] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and their mixtures.

[0087] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0088] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0089] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in Ci-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0090] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.

[0092] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.)

[0093] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0094] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethamine nolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably among the alkanolamines and ammonia, better among the alkalonamines, even better, monoethanolamine.

[0095] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkali agents, the total content of the alkali agent(s) varies, preferably, from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 15% by weight, or even from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the total alkanolamine content, preferably monoethanolamine, varies preferably from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 15% by weight, or even from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process

[0097] An object of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying a composition of the invention to the keratin fibers.

[0098] The composition according to the invention can result from the mixing of at least two compositions, or even at least three compositions, the mixing preferably being carried out just before the step of applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibers.

[0099] The composition according to the invention can be mixed with at least one other composition, the mixing preferably being carried out just before the step of applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibers

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention further relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising the following steps: - application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention; - followed by a pause in the composition's application to the keratin fibers; - a rinsing step of said keratin fibers, and - possibly a step of shampooing said keratin fibers, rinsing and drying.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a process for coloring or lightening keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following successive steps: - application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention after mixing with an alkaline agent; - followed by a pause in the composition's application to said keratin fibers, - a rinsing step for said keratin fibers, and - possibly a step of shampooing said keratin fibers, rinsing and drying.

[0102] When the composition of the invention is used for coloring keratin fibers, said composition: - includes one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes, and / or - is implemented with a colouring composition comprising one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes, the oxidizing and colouring compositions being applied sequentially or simultaneously or after mixing.

[0103] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the dyeing process, the coloring composition is mixed with the oxidizing composition according to the invention at the time of use. The resulting mixture is then applied to the keratin fibers and left to stand for approximately 3 to 50 minutes, preferably approximately 5 to 30 minutes, after which it is rinsed, optionally shampooed, rinsed again, and dried.

[0104] The direct dye(s) may be chosen from among the direct dyes conventionally used in direct coloring. By way of example, these direct dyes are chosen from among benzene-series nitrate dyes, azo direct dyes, methicillin direct dyes, quinone direct dyes, azinic direct dyes, triarylmethanic direct dyes, indoamine direct dyes, and natural direct dyes. These direct dyes may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic.

[0105] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.

[0106] The direct colorant(s) is / are generally present in the colorant composition in an amount between 0.001 and approximately 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 0.005 and approximately 10% by weight.

[0107] The oxidation dye(s) may be chosen from among the oxidation bases and couplers conventionally used in the field of coloring.

[0108] Examples of oxidation bases include para-phenylenediamines, double bases, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

[0109] The oxidation base(s) are generally present in the colour composition in an amount between 0.001 and approximately 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005 and approximately 6% by weight.

[0110] Examples of couplers include meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

[0111] The coupler(s) is / are generally present in the colour composition in an amount between 0.001 and approximately 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005 and approximately 6% by weight.

[0112] Generally, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and of the couplers usable within the framework of the invention are in particular chosen from among the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and the addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0113] The composition according to the invention can also be used in a bleaching or lightening process for keratin fibers, and in particular for keratin fibers such as hair.

[0114] When the composition of the invention is used for bleaching keratin fibers, preferably said composition: - includes one or more alkaline agents, and / or - is implemented with a composition comprising one or more alkaline agents, the oxidizing and alkaline compositions being applied sequentially or simultaneously or after mixing.

[0115] According to one embodiment, when the composition of the invention is used for bleaching keratin fibers, preferably said composition: - includes one or more alkaline agents and one or more peroxygenated salts, in particular one or more persulfates, and / or - is implemented with a composition comprising one or more alkaline agents and one or more peroxygenated salts, in particular one or more persulfates, the compositions being applied sequentially or simultaneously or after mixing and / or - is implemented with a composition comprising one or more alkaline agents, and with a composition comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, in particular one or more persulfates, the compositions being applied sequentially or simultaneously or after mixing.

[0116] Another object of the present invention is a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, and in particular of human keratin fibers such as hair, using an oxidizing composition as defined above which comprises a solid fatty ether; b) at least one chemical oxidizing agent; c) at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin.

[0117] According to this process, a reducing composition is applied to the keratin fibers to be treated, the keratin fibers being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after the application of the reducing composition, the fibers are optionally rinsed, the oxidizing composition of the present invention is applied to the optionally rinsed fibers, comprising a solid fatty ether; b) at least one chemical oxidizing agent; c) at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin, and then the fibers are optionally rinsed again.

[0118] The first step in this process consists of applying a reducing composition to the hair.

[0119] The reducing composition comprises at least one reducing agent, which may in particular be selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, glycerol thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, or salts of thiolactic or thioglycolic acids.

[0120] The usual step of putting the hair under tension in a form corresponding to the final desired form for the latter (curls for example) can be implemented by any means, in particular mechanical, suitable and known in itself for keeping hair under tension, such as for example rollers, curlers, combs and the like.

[0121] Hair can also be styled without the aid of external means, simply with the fingers.

[0122] Before proceeding to the next optional rinsing step, the hair to which the reducing composition has been applied should, as is standard practice, be left to rest for a few minutes, generally between 5 minutes and one hour, preferably between 10 and 30 minutes, to allow sufficient time for the reducing agent to act properly on the hair. This waiting period is preferably carried out at a temperature of 35°C to 45°C, preferably with the hair also protected by a cap.

[0123] In the optional second rinsing step, the hair impregnated with the reducing composition is rinsed thoroughly with an aqueous composition.

[0124] Then, in a third step, the oxidizing composition according to the present invention, comprising a solid fatty ether; b) at least one chemical oxidizing agent; c) at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin, is applied to the hair thus rinsed, in order to fix the new shape imposed on the hair.

[0125] As in the case of the application of the reducing composition, the hair on the oxidizing composition which has been applied is then, in a conventional manner, left in a resting or waiting phase which lasts a few minutes, generally between 3 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes.

[0126] If the tension of the hair was maintained by external means, these (rollers, curlers and the like) can be removed from the hair before or after the fixing step.

[0127] Finally, in the last step of the process according to the invention, which is also an optional step, the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition is rinsed thoroughly, generally with water.

[0128] The present invention also relates to the use for the treatment of keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, of a composition as defined above.

[0129] The present invention relates in particular to the use for dyeing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, of a composition as defined above.

[0130] The present invention also relates to the use for bleaching or lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, of a composition as defined above.

[0131] The present invention also relates to the use for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, of a composition as defined above.

[0132] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). EXAMPLES Example 1: Skin lightening cream

[0133] Compositions A1, A2, B1 and B2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below in grams of active substance:

[0134] Oxidizing composition:

[0135] [Tables 1] Al A2 Hydrogen peroxide 6 6 Scleroglucan gum 1,3- Hydroxyethyl cellulose - 1,3 Distearyl ether 10 10 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Phosphoric acid Qs pH = 2.2 + / - 0.2 Qs pH = 2.2 + / - 0.2 Alkaline composition:

[0136] [Tables2] B1 B2 Monoethanolamine 8.8 8.8 Scleroglucan gum 1.3 - Hydroxyethyl cellulose - 1,3 Distearyl ether 10 10 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0137] At the time of use, the alkaline composition is mixed with 1 times its weight of oxidant (Al+Bl invention or A2+B2 comparative). Each of the mixtures is then applied to a strand of natural and sensitized (permed) hair at a rate of 10g of mixture / g of hair.

[0138] The ready-to-use composition (Al+Bl invention) can be applied to strands with a processing time of 30 minutes and then rinsed.

[0139] [Tables3] Al + Bl (invention) A2 + B2 (comparative) Appearance T0 Gel cream Gel cream Appearance after 1 month at 45 °C Gel cream Milk (liquid)

[0140] The Al+Bl mixture according to the invention remains stable as a function of temperature, which guarantees reproducibility of results with regular performance from root to tip, avoiding product drips.

[0141] Conversely, the comparative mixture A2 + B2 becomes more fluid during storage and under the effect of heat, resulting in poorer product distribution and dripping. on the hair and thus irregularities in results between the root and the tip. Example 2: Skin lightening cream

[0142] The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients in the proportions indicated in grams per 100 g of composition according to the following tables:

[0143] Oxidizing composition:

[0144] [Tables4] A3 Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA 0.850 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.06 Sodium salicylate 0.035 Glycerin 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2.28 Ceteareth-25 0.57 Phosphoric acid Qs pH = 2.2 + / - 0.2 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 Water Qs 100

[0145] Alkaline composition:

[0146] [Tables5] B3 Monoethanolamine 8.8 Scleroglucan gum 1.3 Distearyl ether 10 Water q.s. 100 Appearance T0 Smooth cream-gel

[0147] At the time of use, composition B3 is mixed with 1 times its weight of oxidant A3. The mixture B3+A3 ​​according to the invention is then applied to a strand of natural and sensitized (permanent) hair at a rate of 10g of mixture / g of hair.

[0148] The B3+A3 ​​composition according to the invention has a smooth, creamy texture that is very easy to apply, allowing for even lightening throughout the hair, from root to tip. Furthermore, it is very easy to rinse out. Example 3: Bleaching composition

[0149] The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients in the proportions indicated in grams per 100 g of composition according to the following tables: Bleaching paste

[0150] [Tableauxô] Cl Potassium persulfate 36.71 Sodium persulfate 5.25 Sodium silicate 13.12 Sodium Stearate 1.5 Disodium EDTA 0.17 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 3.5 Isopropyl myristate Qsp 100 Oxidizing composition

[0151] [Tables?] A4 Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA 0.850 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.06 Sodium salicylate 0.035 Glycerin 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2.28 Ceteareth-25 0.57 Phosphoric acid Qs pH = 2.2 + / - 0.2 Hydrogen peroxide 9 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 Water Qs 100 Alkaline cream

[0152] [Tables8] B4 Monoethanolamine 6,3 Scleroglucan gum 1,3 Distearyl ether 10 Water q.s. 100

[0153] At the time of use, composition Cl is mixed with 1 times its weight of oxidant A4 and 1 times its weight of alkaline cream B4. The mixture C1+A4+B4 according to the invention is then applied to a strand of natural and sensitized (permed) hair at a rate of 10g of mixture / g of hair.

[0154] The composition according to the invention (Cl + A4 + B4) allows for homogeneous bleaching results on the hair from root to tip and is easy to rinse.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising: a) at least one solid fatty ether; b) at least one chemical oxidizing agent; c) at least one polysaccharide of microbial origin.

2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty ether(s) are of formula (I) RO-R' in which R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, R and R' comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty ether(s) are of formula (I) RO-R' in which R and R', identical or not, are radicals derived from oleic (C18), lauric (C12), palmitic (C16), myristic (C14), behenic (C22), stearic (C18), linoleic (C18), linolenic (Cl8), arachidic (C20) alcohols.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the solid fatty ether(s) is (are) of formula RO-R' in which R and R', identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferably C14-C24; preferably R and R', identical or different, represent a linear alkyl radical C14-C24, preferably R and R' are identical and represent a linear alkyl radical C14-C24, better still C16-C22, better still R and R' denote a saturated radical, better still deriving from stearic alcohol (Cl8).

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of solid fatty ether(s) varies from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 15% by weight, even better still from 3 to 12% relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is (or are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, alkali or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium percarbonates, peracids and their precursors, and their mixtures, preferably among hydrogen peroxide, alkali or alkaline earth metal or ammonium persulfates, and their mixtures, more preferably among hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and their mixtures, better still hydrogen peroxide.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) varies from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin is (or are) chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof, preferably from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof, more preferably scleroglucan gum.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) of microbial origin is (or are) present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one (or more) alkaline agent(s), the alkaline agent(s) is (or are) chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, silicates or meta-silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines, better still monoethanolamine.

11. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the total content of alkaline agent varies from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better still from 1 to 15% by weight, or even from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said fibers of the composition as defined in claims 1 to 11.

13. Process for coloring and / or bleaching keratin fibers using a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11.

14. Use for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably for the coloring and / or bleaching of keratin fibers, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11.