A process for coloring keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two distinct specific fatty acids, at least one oligo / polyester, and at least one pigment

FR3150425A1Active Publication Date: 2025-01-03LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023006969
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-06-30
Publication Date
2025-01-03
Estimated Expiration
2043-06-30
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two distinct specific fatty acids, at least one oligo / polyester and at least one pigment.
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Claims

1. Claims Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising: • at least two distinct compounds D chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) below, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures:

2. Formula (I) in which: ■ R1 represents: - a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa-; or - a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb-(CO)-; ■ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); ■ Rb represents a (C2-Cio)alkyl group; and • one or more compounds E chosen from oligoesters, polyesters and their mixtures; and • one or more pigments. Process according to the preceding claim, in which R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -0-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(C0)- or -(C0)-NRa-, preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the distinct compounds D, preferably all of the distinct compounds D are in non-salified form.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least two of the distinct compounds D are in non-salified form and the molar ratio of total amount of one of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form / total amount of another of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form in composition (C) is from 0.25 to A

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (C) comprises no more than five distinct compounds D, preferably no more than four distinct compounds D, more preferably no more than three distinct compounds D, even more preferably no more than two distinct compounds D.

6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the distinct compounds D are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Diethylamino acid Compound 1 Palmitic acid Compound 2 Oi- Myristic acid Compound 3 OH Iaunque acid Compound 4 OH Isosteafic acid Compound 5 0 RC with RCO- represented the ac^es groups derived from coconut ndx Cocsyi Sarcosine Lauroyï Lysine Compound 7 Adde béhéntqae Compound 8 n-Octsno^-S-sa^üque acid Compound 9 Hydraxystearic acid Compound 10 2-dodecanol:msdope:ntanedioic acid Compound 11 2-heps adecanamidopetltanedmïqae acid Compound 12 J Qx ..-yy CH Glyceiyi Stearate Ciiraie Compound 13 OH Capryioyi Gîydne Compound 14 1 l-Aminoundecanic Acid Compound 15 Capric acid Compound 16 Eaptyfic acid Tü-hyds'o»fdec.aàoic acid OH Adde 1 G-^droxy-2-de&enoic Compound 19 Hydroxystenylsuccinate Compound 20 Acsfe £kaminocaproic acid Compound 21 Laweth-11 casboxylic acid Compound 22 O Adde acetamidocapfosqae Compound 23 QH Adde aieuriëque .Arachitic acid Compound 25 OH Adde aracHttodque Compound 26 Add. 24Mtylocianoïqu& Compound 27 Cerestic acid Compound 28 4-Ehihy focta-2 4-dsenoic acid Adde 4-éihyioctanmqüe Compound 30 1 hour Stearic Acid Compound 31 Linal-eiqu® acid Compound 32 Drwjamic Acid Compound 33 Genetic acid Compound 34 Heptaenoic acid Compound 35 Ackfe gtBdenic Compound 36 O Adde peiargaraque Compound 37 OH Phenyllacedic acid Compound 38 Ftcjpoiéiqise acid Compound 39

7. preferably chosen from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; more preferably chosen from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures. Method according to claim 1, in which the distinct compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio

8. total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of lauric acid / total quantity of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of sodium laurate in composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1; preferably among the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of lauric acid / total quantity of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1; more preferably, the composition (C) comprises the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total amount of lauric acid / total amount of oleic acid in the composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) comprises a total content of distinct compounds D of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more compounds chosen from carboxylic acids F comprising one or more carboxyl groups, carboxylic acid anhydrides and mixtures thereof; and / or - the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more monoacids F, in particular a vegetable oil chosen in particular from triglycerides; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F and one or more monoacids F; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F and one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides; and / or - the polycondensation of one or more hydroxyacids; and / or - the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones;it being understood that: ■ the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from: - diols and triols, such as propanediols, butanediols, in particular 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dilinoleic dimer alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecane di-methanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-di(hydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol or diglycerol; - pentols such as xylitol; - hexols such as sorbitol, mannitol or dipentaerythritol; - polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6 or polyglycerol-10; and - mixtures thereof;and / or ■ the monoacid(s) F are preferably chosen from monocarboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group included) of more than 7, preferably more than 8, more preferably; primarily ranging from 8 to 30, the monoacid(s) F being even more preferably chosen from capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers and their mixtures; and / or ■ the diacid(s) F are preferably chosen from dilinoleic acid, adipic acid, terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, sebacic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, their organic or mineral base salts, their isomers and their mixtures; and / or ■ the hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from hydroxystearic acids, hydroxybutyric acids, hydroxypentanoic acids, hydroxyhexanoic acids, lactic acid, their organic or mineral base salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; and / or ■ the lactone(s) are preferably chosen from e-caprolactone, gluconolactones, glucarolactones, butyrolactones, valerolactones, octalactones, galactonolactones, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the lactone is e-caprolactone; le ou les composés E étant de préférence choisis parmi les polymères ayant les noms INCI suivants : - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; - Hydroxybutyric Acid / Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer; - 3-Hydroxybutyrate / 3-Hydroxyhexanoate Copolymer; - Polyhydroxybutyrate; - Adipic Acid / Diglycol Crosspolymer; - Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer; - Polyethylene Terephthalate; - Polybutylene Terephthalate; - Polylactic Acid; - Polycaprolactone; - Dilinoleic Acid Propanediol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol Copolymer; - Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Adipate; - Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate; - Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / 1,4-Butanediol / Terephthalate Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Fumaric Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer; and - their mixtures; compound(s) E being more preferably chosen from polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; and - their mixtures.

11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass ratio of total quantity of distinct compounds D / total quantity of compounds E in composition (C) is from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pigment(s) are chosen from nacres, carbon blacks such as Black 2, iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, and mixtures thereof, preferably from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black, more preferably from red iron oxides.

14. A method according to any one of the claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total pigment content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more pre- preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still, the composition (C) is free of silicones.

16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

17. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.

18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

19. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C) and even better still the composition (C) is anhydrous.

20. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein composition (C) comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

21. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to dry keratin fibers.

22. Method according to the preceding claim comprising at least one additional step following step i) chosen from the following steps ii) to iv): ii) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step optionally being carried out under a hermetic film such as a papillote or plastic film; iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

23. Composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20.

24. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20 for coloring keratin fibers.

Citation Information

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