A process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least one specific fatty acid, at least one oxygenated terpene compound, and at least one oligo / polyester.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least one particular fatty acid, at least one oxygenated terpene compound and at least one oligo / polyester.

Description

Title of the invention: A process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least one specific fatty acid, at least one oxygenated terpene compound, and at least one oligo / polyester. Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least one particular fatty acid, at least one oxygenated terpene compound and at least one oligo / polyester. Context of the invention

[0002] External atmospheric agents such as pollution and inclement weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, straightening, and repeated washing, damage and weaken hair. As a result, hair becomes damaged and can eventually become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split, and / or limp, or sensitive to humidity, making hair unruly, often frizzy, and / or difficult to style in humid environments, particularly very humid ones.

[0003] Thus, to remedy these inconveniences, it is common to use hair care products which employ compositions designed to condition the hair properly by providing satisfactory cosmetic properties, including softness to the touch (the hair is no longer rough), good detangling properties leading to ease of combing, good hair discipline which thus has a good shape.

[0004] These hair care products, often based on silicone-based raw materials, can, however, leave a greasy and heavy feel that is not always pleasant for the user. Furthermore, these hair care products have little or no effect on controlling the volume of keratin fibers and / or maintaining the hairstyle and / or the manageability of hair in humid or even very humid environments.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that address these environmental issues, particularly by reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0006] Thus, there is a real need to develop a hair treatment process This process addresses these drawbacks and is specifically designed to maintain or even improve the quality of the hair fiber, including softness, detangling, smoothness, manageability, and / or shine, while also sustainably reducing frizz and / or volume in humid environments to facilitate styling. Ideally, such a process should not use silicone-based raw materials.

[0007] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or part of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0008] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising: a) one or more compounds A chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Formula (I) in which: ■ R1 represents: - a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group optionally being substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, selected from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or their combinations such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa-; or - a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, possibly substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb -(CO)-; ■ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); ■ Rb represents a (C2-Cio)alkyl group; and b) one or more compounds B selected from oxygenated terpene compounds, preferably selected from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isobomeol, the camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, bomeol, eucalyptol, cubebol, famesol, patchoulol, viridiflorol, cafestol, ferruginol, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; and c) one or more compounds E selected from oligoesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (C) as defined above.

[0010] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above for the care of keratin fibers, preferably to give keratin fibers softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel and / or shine, more preferably to give softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel.

[0011] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in humid environments. Detailed description of the invention

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0013] ■ By "keratin fibers" we mean fibers of human or animal origin such as than hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair.

[0014] ■ by "alkyl group" is meant a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.

[0015] ■ By "(Cx-Cy) alkyl group" is meant an alkyl group comprising from x to y atoms of carbon.

[0016] ■ By "(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl group" is meant a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group, one of which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is possibly replaced by a hydroxy group (-OH). A "(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl group" thus designates a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group or a hydroxy(Cx-Cy)alkyl group, that is to say a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced by a hydroxy group (-OH).

[0017] ■ By di(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt, we mean an ammonium salt bearing two (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.

[0018] ■ By tri(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt, we mean an ammonium salt bearing three (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.

[0019] ■ By tetra(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt, we mean an ammonium salt bearing four (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.

[0020] ■ by "(hetero)cyclic group" means a cyclic or heterocyclic group.

[0021] ■ by "cyclic group" is meant a condensed monocyclic or polycyclic carbonyl group or not, saturated or unsaturated, in particular aromatic, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, said cyclic group being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different groups, in particular selected from: (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (Ci-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).

[0022] ■ By "heterocyclic group" is meant a monocyclic or polycyclic group, condensed or not, saturated or unsaturated, in particular aromatic, comprising from 5 to 22 links and containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from the nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom, said heterocyclic group being able to be substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, in particular selected from: (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (Ci-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).

[0023] ■ By "unsaturated hydrocarbon group" is meant a hydrocarbon group comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0024] ■ By "oligoester" is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 2 to 10 units of esters (ester units also called ester monomers) that are identical or different.

[0025] ■ by "polyester" is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising more than 11 units of esters (ester units also called ester monomers) that are identical or different.

[0026] ■ by "isomer" we mean an optical isomer, geometric isomer or tautomer.

[0027] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and may can be used interchangeably. Keratin fiber processing method

[0028] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers as defined above.

[0029] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that the process according to the present invention makes it possible to maintain or even improve the quality of the fiber, in particular its softness, detangling, smoothness and / or manageability and / or shine, and to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in a humid environment thus making it easier to style hair in humid conditions.

[0030] Composition (C) preferably comprises no more than five distinct compounds A, more preferably no more than four distinct compounds A, even more preferably no more than two distinct compounds A, and better composition (C) comprises a single compound A chosen from among the compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0031] Composition (C) preferably comprises no more than five distinct compounds B, more preferably no more than four distinct compounds B, even more preferably no more than two distinct compounds B, and better still composition (C) comprises only one compound B as defined above.

[0032] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a single compound A as defined above and a single compound B as defined above.

[0033] Preferably, at least one of the compounds A, of presence, the set of compounds A are present in composition (C) in non-salified form.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the molar ratio of total quantity of compounds A / total quantity of compounds B in composition (C) is less than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 0.25. Compounds A

[0035] Composition (C) comprises a) one or more compounds A selected from compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0036] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from among the monovalent salts of the compounds of formula (I).

[0037] More preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, di(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, tri(Ci-Cio)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] According to a preferred embodiment, R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group optionally being substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or their combinations such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa-, Ra being as defined above, preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group. unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even more preferably a (C6-C2o)alkyl group, most preferably a (C6-Ci2)alkyl group.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) A are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Deictic acid Compound 1 Palmitic acid Compound 2 Oi Myristic acid Compound 3 OH ■O Boric acid Compound 4 OH Isostearic acid Compound 5 -Q RC—RCHjCOOH with RCO- representing the acetic groups derived from coconut oil Cccoyl Sarcasm HO. . ..0 H Laiæroyi Lysine Compound 7 Behenâqoe Acid Compound 8 C'A <X“ ■•-•■• x XX .<■■'■■""""-x .'"'v XX .Xx X ■-' •" x ''ï' vx 'y / ' b 6 Aride o-octanoyl5-sa^cy^que Composé 9 X'X ,XX.; X'Xs X'X x"’X. ,XXx X"‘x .• - ^vX O H Aride hydroxystéanque Composé 10 «0, ...-O q X ..■•x .X', XX XV XV X, X ...-x ..-0 ' T T ÔH Acide 2-dtwiécasami^perrtarie^ Composé 11 O-H K C- æ " ^93 Actée 24tepSadéœnamK|0pe^nedim^^ Composé 12 Giyçeryî Stearate Citrate Compound 13 OH Gapryfoyi Glycine Compound 14 Acid 1 Vammomdécarmï^ue Compound 15 Q Arid Capric Compound 16 Arid capjyftque Compound 17 Arid 1 O-hy draxy decanoïcüe OH Adde 104*ÿdroxy-2rdécénoœqup Composed 19 Adde 13-hydmxy stearic Composed of 20 Adde 6-atrtnoœproïqué Compound 21 Laufëih-11 carboxylic acid Compound 22 O Adde acetamidocaproic Compound 23 Adde deurfêqug Composé 24 Arachidic acid Compound 25 0 Arachidonic acid Compound 26 Adde 24ætfyfodandic Compound 27 Ceroic acid Compound 28 4-Ethy ioda-2t4-dæïKH acid Compound 29 Adde 4-éfr XH Q yioctaWjque >osé 30 Acids s QH '\X'' déarique sosé 31 OH .-•••x ..'X 0: X........" XX" Adde 1 ..X** 'x X ' xX X mléique Comj >osé 32. ' Acid in <v nnamique comf josé 33 ......... ,ww », acide < x 7 éranique 34 Heptanoic acid OH Y ise Compound 35 1 , Inolenic acid» T ' £3 je Compound 36 Adde per^rgom O •X jue Compound 37 OH Adde phenylacetic compound 3£ OH Rindetq acid KZ ( Xo d X Compound 39 among compounds 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0041] According to a most preferred embodiment, the compound(s) A are chosen from compounds 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) A are chosen from compounds 1 to 39, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, preferably from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, more preferably from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, most preferably from compounds 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0043] When one or more of the compounds A are in salified form, these are preferably chosen from the following compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof: with X+ representing a cation preferably monovalent, more preferably a monovalent cation from a salt chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(CrCio)alkylammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(Ci-Cio)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably a monovalent cation from a salt chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy)(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] When one or more of the compounds A are in salified form, these are more preferably chosen from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, with X+ representing a monovalent cation from a salt chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, di(CrCiO)alkylammonium salts, tri(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, and their mixtures, preferably chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(Ci-CiO)alkylammonium salts, and their mixtures.

[0045] When one or more of the compounds A are in salified form, these are even more preferentially chosen from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, with X+ representing a Na+, K+ ion, NH4+ or tetra(Ci-Cio)alkylammonium.

[0046] When one or more of the compounds A are in salified form, these are most preferably chosen from the following compounds 1” to 13”, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures:

[0047] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, when one or more of the compounds A are in salified form, these are chosen from the compounds 5”, 6”, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0048] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A ranging from 0.01% to 99%, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 98% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C). Compounds B

[0049] Composition (C) comprises b) one or more compounds B selected from oxygenated terpene compounds, preferably selected from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isobomeol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, borneol, eucalyptol, cubebol, farnesol, patchoulol, viridiflorol, cafestol, ferruginol, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.

[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) B are selected from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isobomeol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, borneol, eucalyptol, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, preferably from menthol, thymol, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, more preferably from menthol, its isomers, its solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds B ranging from 0.01% to 99%, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 98% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment: - compound A is capric acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of capric acid to total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2; or - compound A is lauric acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of lauric acid to total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2; or - compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1 / 4 or 1, still more preferably equal to 1.

[0053] According to a more preferred embodiment: - compound A is capric acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of capric acid to total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2; or - compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1 / 4 or 1, still more preferably equal to 1.

[0054] According to an even more preferred embodiment, compound A is ca- acid propyl and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1 / 4 or 1, still more preferably equal to 1.

[0055] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A and B of at least 0.02% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, even more preferably at least 1% by weight, most preferably at least 2% by weight, and better at least 3% by weight, and even better at least 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A and B ranging from 0.02% to 99.9% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 99% by weight, most preferably ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, and better still ranging from 3% to 99% by weight, and even better still ranging from 4% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C). Compounds E

[0057] Composition (C) further comprises c) one or more compounds E selected from oligoesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0058] The compound(s) E are preferably derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more compounds selected from carboxylic acids F comprising one or more carboxyl groups, carboxylic acid anhydrides and mixtures thereof; and / or - the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones. Polyols

[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from one or more polyols preferably comprising 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups (-OH), in particular two or four hydroxyl groups.

[0060] Preferably, the polyol(s) are green, in particular of natural origin, in particular bio-based and especially of plant origin.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are organic compounds comprising a linear or branched, acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even from 5 to 10 carbon atoms; and from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, in particular from 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, said hydrocarbon chain being optionally interrupted by one or more he- heteroatoms, particularly oxygen, especially those that may have ether functions. Examples of such polyols include, but are not limited to, i) sugars, particularly pentoses such as ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, or hexoses such as allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, idose, mannose, talose, fructose, sorbose, or deoxyhexoses such as fucose or rhamnose; ii) triols such as glycerol, iii) tetraols such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, diglycerol, iv) pentols such as xylitol, v) hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol, or dipentaerythritol or triglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are oligomers derived from one or more diols of formula (II) HO-ALK-OH, in which ALK represents a linear or branched alkylene group in the C1-C18, particularly C1-C6 position, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, in particular a hydroxyl group. The polyol(s) are then poly(Ci-Ci8)alkane diols. In particular, the polyol(s) may be oligomers derived from one or more diols of the aforementioned formula (II) with a weight-average molecular mass between 200 and 4,000 g.mol-1, in particular between 300 and 3,000 g.mol-1. As an example, the compound of formula (II) is such that ALK represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, the oligomer then being a poly(Ci-C6)alkane diol. One example is polypropane diol (also known as polypropylene glycol) with a weight-average molecular mass between 300 and 3000 g.mol-1, or polyethylene glycol with a weight average molecular mass between 300 and 3,000 g.mol-1.

[0063] According to another particular embodiment, the polyol(s) can be chosen from monosaccharide or polysaccharide sugars.

[0064] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from one or more organic polyols selected from: - diols and triols, such as propanediols, butanediols such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dilinoleic dimeric alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecane dimethanol, trihydroxystearine, or 2-di(hydroxymethyl)butan-l-ol; - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol or diglycerol; - pentols such as xylitol; - hexols such as sorbitol, mannitol or dipentaerythritol; - polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6, or polyglycerol-10; and - their mixtures.

[0065] According to a more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from one or more organic polyols selected from: - diols and triols, such as propanediols, butanediols such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dilinoleic dimeric alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecane dimethanol, trihydroxystearine, or 2-di(hydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, or diglycerol; - polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6 or polyglycerol-10; and - their mixtures.

[0066] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from one or more organic polyols selected from: - diols and triols chosen from propanediols, butanediols such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dilinoleic dimeric alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol or tricyclodecane dimethanol; - pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol or diglycerol; - polyglycerol-3; and - their mixtures. Polyacids F

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the compound or compounds E are obtained from one or more polycarboxylic acids, also referred to in the rest of the text as "polyacids", i.e. comprising at least two carboxyl groups.

[0068] The polyacid(s) may be acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, and comprise at least two -C(O)OH carboxyl groups, in particular two to four -C(O)OH groups and more particularly two -C(O)OH groups.

[0069] The polyacid(s) are preferably chosen from polycarboxylic acids comprising at least two carboxyl groups -C(O)OH, in particular from 2 to 4 carboxyl groups, in particular 2 carboxyl groups and comprising a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl groups included) from 2 to 54, in particular from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 3 to 40, and even more particularly from 3 to 36.

[0070] When the polyacid(s) comprise two carboxyl groups, it is then called a dicarboxylic acid or diacid.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid(s) may be chosen from polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids, having a molecular molar mass MM less than or equal to 200 g.mol'.

[0072] In particular, the polyacid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, their isomers, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid(s) may be chosen from polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids, having a molecular molar mass MM greater than 200 g.mol*.

[0074] In particular, the polyacid(s) can be chosen from among fatty polyacids, in particular fatty diacids and especially from among fatty acid dimers.

[0075] By "(poly)fatty acid", means a (poly)carboxylic acid comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain at least one carbocycle, in particular one or two carbocycle(s), in particular of the cycloalkyl, mono- or polycyclic type, for example cyclohexyl or decalinyl (cis or trans decalinyl) and comprising a total number of carbon atoms (including carbon atoms of the carboxyl group(s)) from 8 to 38, in particular from 8 to 36, in particular from 10 to 36.

[0076] Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of the (poly) fatty acid is even.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid(s) are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (III), their salts of organic or mineral bases, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures HO-C(O)-ALK'-C(O)-OH (III) in which ALK' represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain at least one carbocycle, in particular one or two carbocycle(s), especially of the cycloalkyl type, mono- or polycyclic, for example cyclohexyl or decalinyl (cis- or trans-decalinyl), the hydrocarbon chain comprising a total number of carbon atoms from 6 to 36, in particular from 6 to 34, in particular from 8 to 34.

[0078] Examples of polyfatty acids include sebacic acid and fatty acid dimers. The term "fatty acid dimer" refers to the dimerization product of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids.

[0079] The fatty acids from which fatty acid dimers can be prepared can be more particularly chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The polyacid(s) can be chosen from fatty acid dimers comprising a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 18 to 38, in particular ranging from 34 to 38 and more particularly 36 carbon atoms.

[0081] In particular, fatty acid dimers can be selected from compounds of formula (III) as defined above, in which ALK' represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising a total number of carbon atoms from 16 to 36, in particular from 32 to 36, in particular 34, incorporating at least one carbocycle group, preferably one or two carbocycles, and more preferably a central carbocycle group, in particular of the mono- or polycyclic cycloalkyl type, in particular cyclohexyl or decalinyl, especially cyclohexyl.

[0082] In a particular embodiment, the polyacid(s) may be selected from fatty acid dimer-type diacids containing a cycloalkyl group, in particular a cyclohexyl group, connected to the -C(O)OH groups via alkylene chains in positions C2 to C10, in particular C4 to C8, especially C6, said cycloalkyl group having pendant alkyl groups in positions C4 to C12, in particular C7 to C9, especially C8. In particular, the fatty acid dimer may be formed from C16 to C20 fatty acids, in particular Cl8, for example from oleic acid and / or linoleic acid. Fatty acid dimers may be commercially available. Examples include fatty acid dimers marketed by Croda under the Pripol® brand, notably Pripol®1009, which is cosmetic grade.According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid(s) may comprise, or even be made up of, diacid(s) of the dimer type of fatty acids, for example Pripol® 1009. Monoacids F.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the compound or compounds E are obtained from one or more monocarboxylic acids, also referred to in the rest of the text as "monoacids", i.e. comprising a single carboxyl group.

[0084] Preferably, the monoacid(s) are acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, and comprise a total number of carbon atoms (including carbon atoms of the carboxyl group) from 6 to 32, in particular from 8 to 28 and more particularly from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the monoacid(s) are non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, and comprise a total number of carbon atoms (including carbon atoms of the carboxyl group) from 6 to 32, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0086] When the monoacid(s) used are of natural origin, they may in particular consist of mixtures comprising saturated acids and unsaturated acids with conjugated and / or non-conjugated unsaturations.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the monoacid(s) are chosen from fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated.

[0088] According to a first embodiment, the monoacid(s) are chosen from monocarboxylic acids comprising a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, comprising a total number of atoms of carbon (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group included) of more than 7, in particular more than 8, more particularly from 8 to 30, especially from 14 to 26, even more particularly from 16 to 22, preferably from 18 to 20.

[0089] By way of example, the monoacid(s) may be chosen from isostearic acid (C18 branched saturated), stearic acid (C18 linear saturated), linoleic acid (C18 linear polyunsaturated), arachidic acid (C20 linear saturated), behenic acid (C22 linear saturated), capric acid (C10 linear saturated), caprylic acid (C8 linear saturated), their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, preferably from isostearic acid (C18 branched saturated), capric acid (C10 linear saturated), caprylic acid (C8 linear saturated), their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.

[0090] According to another variant, the monoacid(s) are chosen from monocarboxylic (poly)cyclic acids, preferably polycyclic, comprising in particular a fused mono, bicyclic, or tricyclic carbocycle, saturated and / or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated, in particular non-aromatic, and comprising from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, said carbocycle being optionally substituted by one or more (C i-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl. Carboxylic acid anhydrides

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides.

[0092] By carboxylic acid anhydride, we mean an organic compound which results from the dehydration of a carboxylic acid and which comprises at least one functional group -C(O)-OC(O)-.

[0093] By way of example, the acid anhydride or anhydrides may be chosen from trimellitic anhydride, phthalic anhydride, terephthalic anhydride and mixtures thereof. Hydroxyacids

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids.

[0095] By "hydroxyacid", we mean a monoacid or polyacid comprising a hydrocarbon chain substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0096] The hydroxyacid(s) may be acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, and comprise a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 4 to 32, in particular ranging from 4 to 28 and more particularly ranging from 4 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0097] By way of example, the hydroxy acid(s) may be chosen from among the hy- acids droxystearic acids, hydroxybutyric acids, hydroxypentanoic acids, hydroxyhexanoic acids, lactic acid, ricinoleic acid, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

[0098] Examples of E compounds resulting from the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids include compounds with the following INCI names: Polyhydroxy-butyrate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polylactic Acid, 3-Hydroxybutyrate / 3-Hydroxyhexanoate Copolymer and Hydroxybutyric Acid / Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer Lactones

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.

[0100] By "lactone" we mean an organic compound whose functional group -C(O)-O- is part of a ring.

[0101] By way of example, the lactone(s) are chosen from e-caprolactone, gluco-nolactones, glucarolactones, butyrolactones, valerolactones, octalactones, galactonolactones, and mixtures thereof, preferably the lactone is e-caprolactone.

[0102] By way of example, compound E is obtained by ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones, polycaprolactone can be cited.

[0103] It is understood that the specific methods of obtaining the compound(s) E described above may be combined. Specific embodiments

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more compounds chosen from monoacids F as defined above, polyacids F as defined above, carboxylic acid anhydrides as defined above and their mixtures.

[0105] According to a more particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more compounds chosen from monoacids F as defined above, polyacids F as defined above and their mixtures.

[0106] According to one variant, the compound(s) E are obtained from the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more monoacids F as defined above, in particular a vegetable oil chosen especially from triglycerides.

[0107] According to another embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more diacids F such as defined previously.

[0108] Thus, according to this last variant, the compound(s) E may be obtained from the reaction of one or more diols comprising a hydrocarbon chain in C2-C10, preferably in C2-C8, more preferably in C2-C6, the hydrocarbon chain being able to be interrupted by an oxygen atom, preferably chosen from pro-panediols, butanediols, hexanediols, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol and mixtures thereof and one or more diacids F comprising a total number of carbon atoms (including carbon atoms of the carboxyl groups) from 2 to 54, in particular from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 3 to 40, and even more particularly from 3 to 36.

[0109] More particularly, the compound(s) E are derived from the reaction of one or more dimers and / or trimers of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably unsaturated fatty acids, and one or more diols.

[0110] In a preferred embodiment, the saturated fatty acid dimer(s) may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups. The saturated fatty acid trimer(s) may comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid groups.

[0111] Preferably, one or more unsaturated fatty acid dimers are used, in particular having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups.

[0112] The unsaturated fatty acid trimer(s) may comprise 3 to 6 unsaturations, conjugated or not, in their carbon chain.

[0113] Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer(s) and / or trimer(s) are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid groups per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer(s) may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer(s) may comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid groups.

[0114] Preferably, one or more unsaturated fatty acid dimers are used, in particular those having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups. Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acids (non-polymerized, therefore corresponding to a monomer) can also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, it is preferred to have more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example, a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, the remainder of the mixture being trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids. The dimer(s) and / or trimer(s) of unsaturated fatty acids may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid, in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product. Dimers Hydrogenated fatty acids (oleic or linoleic acid) are marketed under the brands EMPOL1008, EMPOL1004, EMPOL1025, EMPOL10011 and EMPOL1062 by BASF and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

[0115] Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably plant-based. A fatty acid of plant origin may come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybeans or rapeseed may be used.

[0116] According to another variant, the compound(s) E are obtained from the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more diacids F as defined above and one or more monoacids F as defined above.

[0117] Thus, according to this variant, the compound or compounds E can be formed from at least, or even formed solely, from glycerol, a fatty acid dimer as described above, in particular in C34 to C38 and more particularly in C36, for example that marketed by the company Croda, under the reference Pripol® 1009, of cosmetic grade and isostearic acid.

[0118] Alternatively, according to this variant, the compound(s) E may be formed from at least, or formed solely from pentaerythritol, at least one diacid F, preferably at least one diacid F having a molecular molar mass MM less than or equal to 200 g.mol-1, and more particularly selected from oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, and mixtures thereof, as well as their optical isomers, geometric isomers, their salts of organic or mineral bases, and their solvates such as hydrates, more preferably adipic acid; and at least one monoacid F as defined above, preferably comprising more than 7 carbon atoms, in particular 7 to 26 carbon atoms and more particularly 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and more particularly a mixture of several monoacids of 7 to 26 carbon atoms such as a mixture of capric acid, caprylic acid and isostearic acid.

[0119] The compound(s) E implemented according to the invention may have a weight average molar mass, Mw, ranging from 400 to 100,000 g.mol'. The weight average molar mass can be determined by size exclusion chromatography (SEC).

[0120] According to another embodiment, the compound(s) E are obtained from the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more diacids F as defined above and one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides such as defined previously.

[0121] Thus, according to this last variant, the compound or compounds E can be formed from neopentyl glycol and adipic acid and trimellitic anhydride.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) E are liquid. By "liquid" compound, we mean a compound which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0123] The compound(s) E are more preferentially derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more monoacids F as defined above, in particular a vegetable oil specifically chosen from triglycerides; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more diacids F as defined above; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more diacids F as defined above and one or more monoacids F as defined above; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols as defined above and one or more diacids F as defined above and one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides as defined above; and / or - the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones; it being understood that: ■ The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from: - diols and triols, such as propanediols, butanediols such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dilinoleic dimeric alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecane dimethanol, trihydroxystearine, or 2-di(hydroxymethyl)butan-l-ol; - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol or diglycerol; - pentols such as xylitol; - hexols such as sorbitol, mannitol or dipentaerythritol; - polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6, or polyglycerol-10; and - their mixtures; and / or ■ The monoacid(s) F are preferably chosen from monocarboxylic acids comprising a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, comprising a total number of carbon atoms (including carbon atoms of the carboxyl group) of more than 7, preferably more than 8, more preferably from 8 to 30, the monoacid(s) F being even more preferable preferably chosen from capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, their organic or mineral base salts, their isomers and mixtures thereof; and / or the diacid(s) F are preferably chosen from dilinoleic acid, adipic acid, terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, sebacic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, their organic or mineral base salts, their isomers and mixtures thereof; and / or ■ The hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from among hydroxystearic acids, hydroxybutyric acids, hydroxypentanoic acids, hydroxyhexanoic acids, lactic acid, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; and / or ■ The lactone(s) are preferably chosen from e-caprolactone, glucono-lactones, glucarolactones, butyrolactones, valerolactones, octalactones, galactonolactones, and mixtures thereof, most preferably the lactone is e-caprolactone.

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are selected from the polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; - Hydroxybutyric Acid / Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer; - 3-Hydroxybutyrate / 3-Hydroxyhexanoate Copolymer; - Polyhydroxybutyrate; - Adipic Acid / Diglycol Crosspolymer; - Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer; - Polyethylene Terephthalate; - Polybutylene Terephthalate; - Polylactic Acid; - Polycaprolactone; - Dilinoleic Acid Propanediol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol Copolymer; - Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate; - Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate; - Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / 1,4-Butanediol / Terephthalate Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Fumaric Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer; And -their mixtures.

[0125] According to a more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are selected from the polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; and - their mixtures

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment: • Compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid to total amount of menthol in composition (C) being preferably less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1, and even more preferably equal to 1; and • The compound(s) E are chosen from the polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; and - their mixtures

[0127] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0128] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A, B and E of at least 0.03% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, even more preferably at least 1% by weight, most preferably at least 2% by weight, and better at least 3% by weight, and even better at least 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0129] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A, B and E, less than or equal to 100% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 99% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A, B and E ranging from 0.03% to 100% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 100% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 100% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 100% by weight, most preferably from 2% to 100% by weight, and better still from 3% to 100% by weight, and even better from 4% to 100% by weight.

[0131] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total quantity of compounds A and B to the total quantity of compounds E in composition (C) is 5 to 1000, preferably 5 to 200. Other characteristics of the composition (C)

[0132] Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, i.e. which comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with human keratin fibers.

[0133] Composition (C) may include water, preferably in a total content from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and better less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better the composition (C) is anhydrous.

[0135] Where appropriate, such small quantities of water may in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts of it.

[0136] The pH of the composition (C) is preferably from 2 to 11, more preferably from 3 to 10.5. The pH can be adjusted using an organic or mineral acid or an organic or mineral base commonly used in cosmetics.

[0137] Composition (C) may include one or more organic solvents selected from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] When present in composition (C), this or these organic solvents may be present in composition (C) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).

[0139] Composition (C) is preferably liquid.

[0140] For the purposes of this invention, "liquid composition" refers, on a macroscopic scale, to a composition that does not have a fixed shape and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid that conforms to the shape of the container in which it is placed at room temperature (25°C). When transferred to another container, a liquid still retains its volume. A liquid therefore possesses a fixed volume. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal in equilibrium.

[0141] Composition (C) may be in all the galenic forms conventionally used for hair application. Without limitation, composition (C) may be in the form of a lotion, serum, cream, mousse, gel, spray or lacquer.

[0142] Composition (C) can be used in rinsed or non-rinsed application.

[0143] Composition (C) may be in the form of a mask, a composition conditioning or pre-shampooing. Composition (C) may also be presented as a composition to be added or mixed before application to a mask or conditioning composition.

[0144] Composition (C) may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol container, in order to ensure application of composition (C) in spray form (lacquer) or in foam form. In these cases, composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.

[0145] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of coloring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferably less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), even more preferably, the composition (C) is free of coloring agents.

[0146] By "coloring agent" is meant an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.

[0147] The term "oxidation dye" means an oxidation dye precursor selected from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are slightly colored or colorless compounds which, through a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species.

[0148] By "direct dye" is meant a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), other than oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e., anionic, cationic, neutral, or non-ionic.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better the composition (C) is free of silicones.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total cationic polymer content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better the composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

[0151] By "cationic polymer" is meant any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

[0152] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total cationic surfactant content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better the composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better the composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

[0154] As an example of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds, polyethylene glycols (PEG) may be cited.

[0155] Composition (C) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.

[0156] The bath ratio of the composition (C) applied to the keratin fibers can range from 0.02 to 10. By bath ratio, we mean the ratio between the total weight of the composition (C) applied and the total weight of keratin fibers to be treated.

[0157] The process may include at least one additional step successive to step i) chosen from the following steps ii) to iv): ii) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step possibly being carried out under an airtight film such as a papillote or plastic film; iii) a rinsing and / or washing step of the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

[0158] Preferably, the process includes the additional steps ii) and iv) as described above and carried out in that order.

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, the process comprises all of the additional steps ii), iii) and iv) as described above and carried out in that order.

[0160] The composition application step (C) can last from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

[0161] The temperature of the heating device can range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferably from 50°C to 80°C. A hair dryer, a heated helmet, an iron, or a heated brush can be used as a heating device, for example.

[0162] Step iv) of drying can also be a combination of air drying or drying with a heating device at a temperature of 50°C to 80°C such as a hair dryer or a heated helmet, possibly followed by a step of passing through the iron, preferably a straightening iron.

[0163] Steps i) and optionally steps ii) to iv) may be repeated as many times as necessary, and each cycle of steps may be separated from the next by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Different hair treatments of the invention may be performed between different application cycles, before or after. Composition (C)

[0164] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (C) as defined above. Uses

[0165] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above for the care of keratin fibers, preferably to give keratin fibers softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel and / or shine, more preferably to give softness to the touch and / or a smooth feel.

[0166] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in humid environments. Examples

[0167] The following examples provide a better understanding of the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, all quantities are given as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] The following Cl to C3 compositions were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below:

[0169] [Tables 1] Ingredients: Cl C2 C3 Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Dispersun DSP-OL300, marketed by Innospec Performance Chemicals) 5 Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (Viscoplast 14436 H, marketed by Biosynthis) 5 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd.) 5 Caprylic acid / menthol mixture (1:1 molar ratio) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Preparation process for Cl to C3 compositions

[0170] 1 mole of caprylic acid is weighed in a flask to which 1 mole of Menthol. The mixture is heated with stirring at 70°C for 1 hour. After the reaction mixture has cooled to room temperature, compound E is added to the resulting liquid and the mixture is again heated with stirring at 70°C for 20 minutes. After returning to room temperature, the composition is obtained as a slightly viscous, colorless, transparent, oil-like liquid.

[0171] Example 1: Evaluation of "smoothness to the touch" by the rubbing test

[0172] The surface of a natural hair is perceived as smooth, that is to say with a co efficient of low friction, unlike that of damaged hair which is perceived as rough, i.e. with a high coefficient of friction. Hair treatments that damage the hair, such as coloring and bleaching, are known to increase the coefficient of friction of the hair. Therefore, the lower the coefficient of friction in the hair, the better the feeling of repaired hair and the easier it is to comb and detangle. in dry and humid conditions.

[0173] The "smoothness to the touch" was evaluated for compositions C2 and C3 according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0174] Wicks used

[0175] For the study, 3.5 cm strips of bleached Caucasian hair (alkaline solubility SA22) were used.

[0176] Evaluation Protocol

[0177] In this test, a 3.5 cm long strand of hair is fixed in the sample holder of a Zwickiline Z2.5 mechanical testing machine (Zwick, Germany) equipped with a 100 Newton (N) measuring cell. A normal force of 0.5 N is applied to the strands using a clamp covered with disposable plastic foam. The foam is replaced after each measurement. The testing machine imposes a displacement at a constant speed of 100 mm / min to extract the strand from the clamp. During retraction, the force required to extract the hair is measured as a function of the displacement. The resulting force / displacement curve is characterized by a plateau at the end of the stroke, and the average force at the plateau is recorded. The impact of hair treatments on the friction properties is determined by comparing the average force at the plateau of reference strands to the average force at the plateau of treated strands.

[0178] For measurements in the dry state (dry friction force), the hair is conditioned at 25°C and 45% relative humidity.

[0179] For measurements in the wet state (wet friction force), the hair strands are immersed in demineralized water for one minute prior to measurement.

[0180] Compositions C2 and C3 were applied according to the leave-on protocol described below, then measurements in the dry and wet state were carried out according to the protocol described above.

[0181] A power ratio between treated and untreated hair could thus be determined: FtreatedS(N) / Funtreated(N).

[0182] Leave-on protocol

[0183] 1) Washing the strand with a DOP shampoo at a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair; 2) Combing the lock of hair; 3) Application of the compositions to still damp hair at a bath ratio of 0.15 g / g of hair, no waiting time; 4) Allow the wick to dry at room temperature (22°C)

[0184] Results

[0185] The results of the measurements are summarized in the table below:

[0186] [Tables2] Tested Composition Protocol Treated / Untreated on dry hair Treated / Untreated on damp hair C2 Leave-on 0.95 0.79 C3 Leave-on 0.88 0.70

[0187] Lower friction forces are observed on dry and wet hair treated by the process according to the present invention than on untreated hair. The hair surface is smoother, even in the absence of silicone raw materials. Treated hair is softer, easier to comb and detangle, than untreated hair.< / v>

Claims

Claims

1. Process for treating keratin fibers comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising: a) one or more compounds A chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Formula (I) in which: ■ R1 represents: - a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa-; or - a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb-(CO)-; ■ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); ■ Rb represents a (C2-Cio)alkyl group; and b) one or more compounds B chosen from oxygenated terpene compounds, preferably chosen from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isobomeol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, borneol, eucalyptol, cubebol, farnesol, patchoulol, viridiflorol, cafestol, ferruginol, and their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; and c) one or more compounds E chosen from oligoesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

2. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of the compounds A, of the presence of all the compounds A are present in the composition (C) in non-salified form.

3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the molar ratio of total quantity of compounds A / total quantity of compounds B in composition (C) is less than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 0.

25.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (~NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(C0)- or -(C0)-NRa-, Ra being as defined in claim 1, preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even more preferably a (C6-C2o)alkyl group,most preferably a (C6-Ci2)alkyl group.,

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) A are chosen from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Diethylamino acid Compound 1 Palmitic acid Compound 2 Oi- Myristic acid Compound 3 OH Iaunque acid Compound 4 OH Isosteafic acid Compound 5 0 RC with RCO- represented the ac^es groups derived from coconut ndx Cocsyi Sarcosine Lauroyï Lysine Compound 7 Adde béhéntqae Compound 8 n-Octsno^-S-sa^üque acid Compound 9 Hydraxystearic acid Compound 10 2-dodecanol:msdope:ntanedioic acid Compound 11 2-heps adecanamidopetltanedmïqae acid Compound 12 J Qx ..-yy CH Glyceiyi Stearate Ciiraie Compound 13 OH Capryioyi Giyd&e Compound 14 1 l-Aminoundecanic Acid Compound 15 Capric acid Compound 16 Eaptyfic acid Tü-hyds'o»fdec.aàoic acid OH Adde 1 G-^droxy-2-de&enoic Compound 19 Hydroxystenylsuccinate Compound 20 Acsfe £kaminocaproic acid Compound 21 Laweth-11 casboxylic acid Compound 22 O Adde acetamidocapfosqae Compound 23 QH Adde aieuriëque Acid afachWfaue Compound 25 Arachidonic acid Compound 26 Add. 24Mtylocianoïqu& Compound 27 Cerestic acid Compound 28 4-Hydroctyl-2-4-decanoic acid Adde 4-éihyioctanmqüe Compound 30 7 a.m. Stearic Acid Compound 31 Linal-eiqu® acid Compound 32 Drwjamic Acid Compound 33 Genetic acid Compound 34 Heptaenoic acid Compound 35 Ackfe Compound 36 Adde peiargaraque Compound 37 OH %dde phé^lacéSque Compound 38 OH OH Rtcjpoi acid eiqise Compound 39 preferably chosen from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; more preferably chosen from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; even more preferably chosen from compounds 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) B are chosen from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isobomeol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, bomeol, eucalyptol, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, preferably from menthol, thymol, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, more preferably from menthol, its isomers, its solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which: - compound A is capric acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of capric acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2; or - compound A is lauric acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of lauric acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2; or - compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1, even more preferably equal to 1;preferably: - compound A is capric acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of capric acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2; or - compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1, even more preferably equal to 1; preferably, compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being; less than or equal to 1, more preferably equal to 1 / 2 or 1, even more preferably equal to 1.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) comprises: - a total content of compounds A ranging from 0.01% to 99%, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 98% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C); and / or - a total content of compounds B ranging from 0.01% to 99%, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 98% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A and B ranging from 0.02% to 99.9% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 99% by weight, most preferably ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, and better still ranging from 3% to 99% by weight, and even better still ranging from 4% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more compounds chosen from carboxylic acids F comprising one or more carboxyl groups, carboxylic acid anhydrides and mixtures thereof; and / or - the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more monoacids F, in particular a vegetable oil chosen in particular from triglycerides; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F and one or more monoacids F; and / or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F and a or more carboxylic acid anhydrides; and / or - the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones; it being understood that: ■ the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from: - diols and triols, such as propanediols, butanediols such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dimer dilinoleic alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecane di-methanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-di(hydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol or diglycerol; - pentols such as xylitol; - hexols such as sorbitol, mannitol or dipentaerythritol; - polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6 or polyglycerol-10; and - their mixtures; and / or ■ the monoacid(s) F are preferably chosen from monocarboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group included) of more than 7, preferably more than 8, more preferably ranging from 8 to 30, the monoacid(s) F being even more preferably chosen from capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers and their mixtures; and / or ■ the diacid(s) F are preferably chosen from dilinoleic acid, adipic acid, terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, sebacic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers and their mixtures; and / or ■ the hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from hydroxystearic acids, hydroxybutyric acids, hydroxypentanoic acids, hydroxyhexanoic acids, lactic acid, their salts of organic or mineral bases, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; and / or ■ the lactone(s) are preferably chosen from e-caprolactone, gluconolactones, glucarolactones, butyrolactones, valerolactones, octalactones, galactonolactones, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the lactone is e-caprolactone; the compound(s) E being preferably chosen from polymers ayant les noms INCI suivants : - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; - Hydroxybutyric Acid / Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer; - 3-Hydroxybutyrate / 3-Hydroxyhexanoate Copolymer; - Polyhydroxybutyrate; - Adipic Acid / Diglycol Crosspolymer; - Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer; - Polyethylene Terephthalate; - Polybutylene Terephthalate; - Polylactic Acid; - Polycaprolactone; - Dilinoleic Acid Propanediol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol Copolymer; - Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Adipate; - Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate; - Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / 1,4-Butanediol / Terephthalate Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid / Fumaric Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer;and - their mixtures; the compound(s) E being more preferably chosen from polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; and - their mixtures.;

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

13. A method according to any preceding claim, in in which the mass ratio of total quantity of compounds A and B / total quantity of compounds E in composition (C) is from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200.

14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of silicones.

15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.

16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.

17. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.

18. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably- preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C) and even better still composition (C) is anhydrous.

19. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (C) comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

20. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.

21. Method according to the preceding claim comprising at least one additional step following step i) chosen from the following steps ii) to iv): ii) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step optionally being carried out under a hermetic film such as a papillote or plastic film; iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

22. Composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19.

23. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 for the care of keratin fibers, preferably for providing the keratin fibers with softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch and / or shine, more preferably for providing softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch.

24. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 for protecting keratin fibers from humidity, preferably for limiting the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of the hair in a humid environment.