COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (b-1) at least one fatty acid, wherein the composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications, and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including at least one hydrophobized cationic polymer, a cosmetic process using the composition and a film prepared by the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.

[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0005] A polyionic complex, formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.

[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and be in the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] A first objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can comprise at least one particle based on at least one cationic polymer and at least one fatty acid, and which is useful for cosmetic applications.

[0008] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0009] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising

[0010] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0011] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0012] (b-1) at least one fatty acid,

[0013] in which

[0014] the composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount in less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0016] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0017] The amount of the cationic polymer(s) (a-1) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0019] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a-3) water.

[0021] The amount of (a-3) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 45% to 97% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The (b-1) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, more preferably C8-C18.

[0023] The amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (b-2) at least one alcohol, preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, pentyl- glycol, glycerin, and their mixture, and more preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and their mixture.

[0025] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may form at least one complex.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0028] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0029] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a particle comprising (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; and (b-1) at least one fatty acid, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex, and the particle is capable of having a particle size greater than 1.0 qm, preferably greater than 1.5 qm, and more preferably 2.0 qm or more, in water at 25°C, and the particle is capable of having a particle size less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, and more preferably less than 300 nm, when dried. Brief description of the drawings

[0031] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] shows a transmission electron microscope image (MET) of the composition according to Example 1.

[0032] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows a transmission electron microscope image (MET) of the composition according to Example 2.

[0033] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows a transmission electron microscope image (MET) of the composition according to Comparative Example 2. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0034] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which comprises at least one particle based on at least one cationic polymer and at least one fatty acid, is useful for cosmetic applications, and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0036] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0037] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0038] (b-1) at least one fatty acid,

[0039] in which

[0040] the composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] The composition according to the present invention may form at least one particle comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid. The (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid may form at least one complex. This particle may be a gel particle, the size of which is typically of the order of a micron, for example from 0.3 to 10 microns. The particle is not in the form of a line or a fiber, but may be in the form of a globe or be spherical. Thus, the aspect ratio of the particle may be less than 5, preferably less than 3, and more preferably less than 2. The “size” of the particle may be the longest diameter of the particle. The particle size in a composition can be determined by a dynamic light scattering method, for example, using a particle size analyzer such as ELSZ-2000 (Otsuka Electronics).This particle size can be based on a volume average diameter.

[0042] The size of the above particle may change depending on the environments. For example, if the particle is in water at 25°C, the particle size may be larger than 1.0 qm, preferably larger than 1.5 qm, and more preferably 2.0 qm or larger, such as 0.3 to 10 microns as mentioned above. On the other hand, if the particle is dried, the particle size may be smaller than 500 nm, preferably smaller than 400 nm, and more preferably smaller than 300 nm. The particle size in water may be determined by a dynamic light scattering method, for example, using a particle size analyzer such as ELSZ-2000 (Otsuka Electronics). This particle size may be based on a volume average diameter. On the other hand, the size of the particle when dried may be determined under a microscope. This particle size can be based on a number average diameter.

[0043] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion.

[0044] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel. In addition, the composition according to the present invention may exhibit dilatancy effects.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention can provide a good feel to the touch (good texture). For example, the composition according to the present invention can provide a soft feel when applying the composition to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin).

[0046] The composition according to the present invention can form a film. When the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a substance keratinous material (e.g., skin) and dried, the particles in the composition of the present invention can reduce in size and form a continuous film. The film is composed of small particles whose size is in the nanometer range (e.g., from about 100 nm to about 500 nm). Since the particle size in the film is small, the film can be translucent.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention can provide blurring effects. The composition according to the present invention can form a film when the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried. The film thus formed can blur, i.e., conceal skin irregularities such as spots, wrinkles, and fine lines.

[0048] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications.

[0049] If the (a-1) at least one cationic polymer is obtained from natural resources, the (a-1) cationic polymer may be an environmentally friendly ingredient. For example, the (a-1) cationic polymer may be selected from chitosans which are environmentally friendly. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0050] In addition, ingredients (a-2) and (b-1) may be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.

[0051] The composition may comprise at least one oil different from the (b-1) fatty acid. However, the amount of the oil(s) is limited so that the amount of the oil(s) is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can reduce the stickiness derived from the oil(s).

[0052] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail. [Composition]

[0053] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0054] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0055] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0056] (b-1) at least one fatty acid,

[0057] in which

[0058] the composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount in less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059]

[0060]

[0061] In the composition according to the present invention, at least the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid can form at least one complex. A positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety such as an amino (-NH2) or ammonium (-NH3+) group of the (a-1) cationic polymer can interact ionically with the carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) group of the (b-1) fatty acid to form the complex. The complex includes at least one hydrophobic moiety derived from the fatty moiety of the (b-1) fatty acid. Therefore, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by the (b-1) fatty acid through the formation of the complex. The following diagram shows an example of hydrophobization of chitosan as a (a-1) cationic polymer by the (b-1) fatty acid which is represented by R-COOH in which R denotes a fatty moiety of the (b-1) fatty acid, i.e. an example of formation of a complex of chitosan as a (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-1) fatty acid.

[0062]

[0063] The complexes formed by (a-1) cationic polymers and (b-1) fatty acids can aggregate to form at least one particle, due to the hydrophobic interaction between the hydrophobic moieties of the complexes. The following diagram shows an example of particles formed by the aggregation of complexes formed by (a-1) cationic polymers (represented by lines) and (b-1) fatty acids (represented by dots).

[0064] Thus, the composition according to the present invention forms at least one particle comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid. In other words, the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention can form at least one particle. The above particle is very small, and therefore, is not visually recognizable.

[0065] The particle comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex, may have a size of 1 pm or more in water. If dried, the particle may shrink to less than 1 pm, for example, from 100 nm to 500 nm. However, if contacted with water again, the particle may return to a size of 1 pm or more. In addition, the dried particle may have a core-shell structure wherein the core may mainly comprise the (a-1) cationic polymer, and the shell may mainly comprise the (b-1) fatty acid.

[0066] The monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof may interact with the above particle. Thus, the above particle may also comprise the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof.

[0067] (Cationic polymer)

[0068] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0069] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a-1) cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0070] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-1) cationic polymer is 1000 or more, preferably 2000 or more, more preferably 3000 or more, and even more preferably 4000 or more.

[0071] It may in particular be preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer has a molecular weight greater than 20,000.

[0072] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a weight average molecular weight.

[0073] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) herein refers to a group of -NH2.

[0074] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is intended to refer to both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0075] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably from natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.

[0076] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or me- esters and amides thacrylics and comprising at least one unit chosen from the units of the following formulas: RRR —üW—O---------- —OL—O------------ ~—OHï—G------------- 1 5 ' s to to hh I ] X" I AAA Ræ-——R§ R / As î R;" R; R R .. I has" - NH HAS I R

[0077] in which:

[0078] R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups;

[0079] R3, which may be the same or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3;

[0080] the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0081] R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, are chosen from groups alkyl comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and

[0082] X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anions and halides, for example chloride and bromide.

[0083] The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by C1-C4 lower alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0084] Examples of copolymers of family (1) include, but are not limited to:

[0085] copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

[0086] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 080 976,

[0087] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

[0088] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,

[0089] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers and

[0090] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, for example, methylenebisacrylamide.

[0091] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0092] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group and more preferably a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

[0093] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0094] in which

[0095] each of R1 and R2 denotes a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0096] R3 denotes a C 24-alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0097] X denotes an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

[0098] n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10 and more preferably 0, and

[0099] R4 denotes a C1-4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0100] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0101] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group is -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0102] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt selected from methacryloyl-ethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dime- thyldiallylammonium.

[0103] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, products sold under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company National Starch.

[0104] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US patents Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example the chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) may also be used.

[0105] These products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0106] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and alkylene or hy- groups Divalent droxyalkylene polymers comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

[0107] (6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity chosen from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishalocyclodiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity chosen from bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishalocyclidiamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides being optionally alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized.These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0108] (7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of poly- alkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 1,583,363. In at least at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be chosen from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0109] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0110] (9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one unit from among the units of formulae (Ia) and (Ib): — CW XÇ(FW GX X. ' ' N ' Rw [YES] in which:

[0112] k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

[0113] R12 is selected from hydrogen and methyl groups;

[0114] Rio and Rn, which may be the same or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and (Ci-C4)lower alkylamido groups, or Rio and Ru can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and

[0115] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

[0116] In one embodiment, R10 and Ru, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0117] Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the homopolymer of dimethyldiethylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its low weight average molecular weight counterparts) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".

[0118] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): Rb Ru <n) .......N*......A:.....N*................. | X" |

[0119] in which:

[0120] Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, which may be the same or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and the lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or alternatively Rn, R[4, R b and Ri6 may form, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Rn, R[4, Ri5, and Ri6 which may be the same or different, are selected from linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups and -CO-NH-Rp-E groups, where Rn is an alkylene group and E is an ammonium group quaternary;

[0121] Ai and Bb which may be identical or different, are chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, groups amino, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and

[0122] X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0123] Ai, R13 and Rn can form, in conjugation with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0124] if Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:

[0125] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-

[0126] in which E' is chosen from: a. glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, in which Z is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:

[0127] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-

[0128] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-

[0129] in which x and y, which may be the same or different, are chosen from whole numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization; a. a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives; b. bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-. and c. ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0130] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0131] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patents Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0132] Non-limiting examples of these polymers include those comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (III): Rn Ris (ni) - NMCHgV- R h Rw

[0133] in which

[0134] Rn, Ru, Rn and R[6, which may be the same or different, are chosen from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

[0135] (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV): R^ IX ---HAS- X" | I X"

[0136] in which:

[0137] R18, R19, R20 and R2i, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH, in which p is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 6, provided that R[8, R19, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

[0138] r and s, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6,

[0139] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

[0140] X is an anion, such as a halide, and

[0141] A is chosen from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0142] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324.

[0143] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0144] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0145] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallyl chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0146] (13) Polyamines

[0147] As the (a-1) cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the polymer backbone or a pendant group, if any, of the (co)poly amines.

[0148] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosans, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinyl acetals and their salts.

[0149] As (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine may be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine may be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferable. Polylysine may be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.

[0150] (14) Cationic polyamino acids

[0151] As the (a-1) cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendant group, if any, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, if any, of the cationic polyamino acids.

[0152] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein trimonium, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

[0153] The following descriptions relate to preferable embodiments of the cationic polymer.

[0154] It is preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0155] It is more preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans.

[0156] It is preferable that the chitosan has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, more preferably, greater than 80,000. In other words, the (a-1) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

[0157] The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and more preferably less than 300,000.

[0158] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

[0159] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means weight average molecular weight. Molecular weight may be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0160] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0161] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a [3 (1,4)] type bond.

[0162] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of monomers [3-D-glucosamine linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0163] The "chitosan" according to the present invention designates any copolymer formed from constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by [3 (1,4)] type bonds and is a polymer of the Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine) type.

[0164] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0165] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0166] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0167] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0168] Chitosan can be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0169] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0170] A process for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0171] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of powder. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

[0172] It is preferable that (a-1) is chosen from chitosans, and more preferably chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0173] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] (Monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof)

[0177] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.

[0178] The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by the polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by the polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.

[0179] The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

[0180] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof is less than 1000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 200 or less.

[0181] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (a-3) water. The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a-1) cationic polymer in (a-3) water.

[0182] The monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.

[0183] The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.

[0184] It is preferable that the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.

[0185] The monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid may be chosen from hydroxy acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, salicylic acid.

[0186] Thus, the monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid. If the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from Chitosans, lactic acid, and salicylic acid are particularly preferable because they can effectively dissolve chitosans and have little odor.

[0187] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] (Water)

[0191] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-3) water.

[0192] (a-3) Water can form an aqueous phase which is a continuous phase of the com position according to the present invention.

[0193] The amount of (a-3) water may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] The amount of (a-3) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] The amount of (a-3) water may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 45% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] (Fatty Acid)

[0197] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) at least one fatty acid. A single type of fatty acid may be used, or two or more different types of fatty acid may be used in combination.

[0198] The (b-1) fatty acid is different from the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof.

[0199] the (b-1) fatty acid can hydrophobize the (a-1) cationic polymer.

[0200] The term “fatty acid” herein refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0201] The (b-1) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The (b-1) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms and, more preferably, up to 22 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the (b-1) fatty acid is chosen from C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably C8"C22 fatty acid.

[0202] The (b-1) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (b-1) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-C22.

[0203] As unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, monounsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids may be used. As the unsaturated fraction of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.

[0204] As saturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Cio), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (CM), pentadecanoic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Ci7), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and li-gnoceric acid (C24).

[0205] As unsaturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), li-nolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C20), eico-senoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).

[0206] It is preferable that the (b-1) fatty acid is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-Ci8 fatty acids, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The (b-1) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of a salt thereof. As the salt of the fatty acid, there may be an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a salt salt, or the like); and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the free acid form and one or more fatty acids in the salt form may be used, wherein one or more types of salts may also be used.

[0208] The amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] Furthermore, the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] Consequently, the amount of the (b-1) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] (Alcohol)

[0212] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b-2) at least one alcohol. A single type of alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of alcohol may be used in combination.

[0213] The (b-2) alcohol may be in the form of a liquid at room temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).

[0214] The (b-2) alcohol may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0215] The term "volatile" means that the alcohol can evaporate at normal atmospheric pressure such as 1 atm and room temperature such as 25°C.

[0216] The (b-2) alcohol may function to facilitate the complexation of the (b-1) fatty acid with the (a-1) cationic polymer.

[0217] The (b-2) alcohol may be a monovalent alcohol, preferably chosen from monovalent aliphatic alcohols, monovalent aromatic alcohol and their mixtures, and more preferably from monovalent aliphatic alcohols.

[0218] The monovalent aliphatic alcohol (mono-ol) may have 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl group. Examples of monovalent aliphatic alcohol include ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol and a mixture thereof.

[0219] The monovalent aromatic alcohol may have 8 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. Examples of monovalent aromatic alcohol include benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and a mixture thereof.

[0220] The (b-2) alcohol may be a divalent or polyvalent alcohol, preferably chosen from divalent or polyvalent aliphatic alcohols, divalent or polyvalent aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from divalent or polyvalent aliphatic alcohols.

[0221] The divalent aliphatic alcohol (di-ol) may have 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 7 carbon atoms, and more preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms, and two hydroxyl groups. Examples of divalent aliphatic alcohol include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.

[0222] Polyvalent aliphatic alcohol does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by the reduction of one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0223] The polyhydric aliphatic alcohol (polyol) may have 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 9 carbon atoms, and more preferably 5 or 8 carbon atoms, and three or more hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyhydric aliphatic alcohol include glycerin and diglycerin.

[0224] It is preferable that the (b-2) alcohol is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and their mixture, and more preferably from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol and their mixture.

[0225] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] The amount of the b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] The amount of the (b-2) alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] (Optional ingredient)

[0229] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than the (a-1) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than the (b-2) alcohol; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than the (a-1) cationic polymer; waxes; and the like, within a range which does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0230] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0232] However, the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is limited. Thus, the amount of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include oil.

[0233] The amount of the synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include a synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener.

[0234] The amount of the anionic polymer(s) or the amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include an anionic or amphoteric polymer. [Preparation]

[0235] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0236] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the com- position according to the present invention.

[0237] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. In addition, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0238] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is prepared by a process comprising the following steps: 1. mixing

[0239] (a-1) of at least one cationic polymer

[0240] (a-2) of at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and

[0241] optionally (a-3) water

[0242] to form a first mixture (a); 1. the mixture

[0243] (b-1) of at least one fatty acid, and

[0244] optionally (b-2) of at least one alcohol,

[0245] to form a second mixture (b); and 1. the mixture

[0246] of the first mixture (a) and of the second mixture (b) to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0247] The process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may further comprise an optional step of mixing at least one oil, provided that the amount of the oil(s) is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Cosmetic application]

[0248] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element and, examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.

[0249] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care composition. [Shape]

[0250] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form.

[0251] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion. Also, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel.

[0252] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a powder.

[0253] The composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0254] Transparency may be measured by turbidity measurement (e.g., with the HACH 2100Q portable turbidimeter). The turbidity of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 400 NTU (translucent), preferably less than 350 NTU, more preferably less than 300 NTU (transparent). [pH]

[0255] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 8, and more preferably from 4 to 7.

[0256] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be corrected by the addition of at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than the non-polymeric (a-2) acid or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be corrected by the addition of at least one buffering agent.

[0257] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can form a film.

[0258] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm or more, more preferably 1.0 qm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 qm or more, comprising:

[0259] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0260] drying the composition.

[0261] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention may be 300 qm or less, preferably 200 qm or less, and more preferably 100 qm or less.

[0262] Since the process of preparing a film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require spin coating or spraying, and therefore it is possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as spin coatings and spraying machines.

[0263] When the composition according to the present invention is applied to a substrate such as a keratinous substance (e.g., skin) and dried, the particles in the composition according to the present invention can reduce in size and form a continuous film. The film is composed of small particles whose size is in the nanometer range (e.g., from about 100 nm to about 500 nm). Since the particle size in the film is small, the film can be translucent. The film thus formed can blur, i.e., conceal, skin irregularities such as spots, wrinkles, and fine lines.

[0264] Accordingly, the composition and film according to the present invention are useful for cosmetic applications.

[0265] The particle in the film according to the present invention may be in the form of a core-shell particle wherein the core may comprise mainly the (a-1) cationic polymer such as chitosan, while the shell may comprise mainly the (b-1) fatty acid.

[0266] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention may be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials may be used. In any case, it is preferable that the substrate be soft or elastic.

[0267] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 μm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 μm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 μm.

[0268] It is more preferable that the film according to the present invention is detachable from the non-keratinous substrate. The detachment method is not limited. For example, the film according to the present invention can be peeled off from the non-keratinous substrate.

[0269] The present invention may also relate to:

[0270] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process including:

[0271] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0272] drying the composition,

[0273] and

[0274] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably 1.0 qm or more, even more preferably 1.5 qm or more, comprising:

[0275] (al)at least one cationic polymer,

[0276] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and

[0277] (b-1) at least one fatty acid;

[0278] in which

[0279] the composition comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% in weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] The above explanations concerning the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, as well as the (b-1) fatty acid, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above film (2).

[0281] The film according to the present invention may also comprise (b-2) at least one alcohol, if the (b-2) alcohol is not volatile.

[0282] The film according to the present invention can dissolve in water. The particles in the film according to the present invention can swell in water to have a size of the order of microns.

[0283] If the particles in the film according to the present invention are released from the film, the small-sized particles can easily penetrate into the pores, wrinkles and fine lines of the skin. After penetrating into the pores, wrinkles and fine lines, the particles can swell by applying water to the skin. This swelling of the particles can make the pores, wrinkles and fine lines less visible.

[0284] The film according to the present invention may be biocompatible and / or biodegradable.

[0285] The term "biocompatible" in this specification means that the film does not have excessive interaction between the film and cells of the living body including the skin, and that the film is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

[0286] The term "biodegradable" in this specification means that the film can be degraded or broken down in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself, or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living body. Also, the biodegradable film can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0287] If the film according to the present invention is biocompatible and / or biodegradable, it is less irritating or non-irritating to the skin and / or it may not contaminate environments.

[0288] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a-1) at least one cationic polymer chosen from chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.

[0289] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably the skin, in particular the face. The film according to the present invention can take any form. [Particle]

[0290] The present invention also relates to a particle comprising

[0291] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; and

[0292] (b-1) at least one fatty acid,

[0293] in which

[0294] the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex.

[0295] The above particle according to the present invention is capable of having a size of particles greater than 1.0 qm, preferably greater than 1.5 qm, and more preferably 2.0 qm or more, in water at 25°C, while the above particle according to the present invention is capable of having a particle size less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, and more preferably less than 300 nm, when dried.

[0296] The above particle size in water or when dried can be determined as mentioned above.

[0297] Thus, the particle according to the present invention can have a size of the order of a nanometer (less than 1.0 qm) under dry conditions. On the other hand, the particle according to the present invention can swell in water to have a size of the order of a micron (more than 1.0 qm).

[0298] The particle according to the present invention may be, in particular when dried, in the form of a core-shell particle in which the core may comprise mainly the (a-1) cationic polymer such as chitosan, while the shell may comprise mainly the (b-1) fatty acid.

[0299] The above explanations concerning the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above particle. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0300] The present invention also relates to:

[0301] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or

[0302] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0303] The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0304] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

[0305] The present invention may also relate to a use of (b-1) at least one fatty acid

[0306] in a composition, comprising:

[0307] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer,

[0308] in which

[0309] the composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0310] in order to prepare at least one complex comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid.

[0311] The above explanations concerning the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above use. EXAMPLES

[0312] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 [Preparations]

[0313] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0314] The details of the preparation are as follows.

[0315] (Example 1)

[0316] Firstly, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.

[0317] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in a quantity of 10 g.

[0318] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition according to Example 1. The pH of the composition according to Example 1 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0319] (Example 2)

[0320] Firstly, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.32 g of salicylic acid and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.

[0321] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in an amount of 10 g.

[0322] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition according to Example 2. The pH of the composition according to Example 2 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0323] (Example 3)

[0324] Firstly, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.

[0325] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of oleic acid and 9.83 g of pentylene glycol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in an amount of 10 g.

[0326] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition according to Example 3. The pH of the composition according to Example 3 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0327] (Comparative Example 1)

[0328] First, 0.57 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.29 g of lactic acid and 87.94 g of water were mixed to obtain a mixture. Then, 9.60 g of zea mays (corn) germ oil and 1.6 g of oleic acid were added to the mixture while stirring. Thus, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was prepared. The pH of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0329] (Comparative Example 2)

[0330] Firstly, 0.63 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 0.32 g of lactic acid and 99.05 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.

[0331] Secondly, separately, 0.17 g of water and 9.83 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in an amount of 10 g.

[0332] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition according to Comparative Example 2. The pH of the composition according to Comparative Example 2 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0333] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 Lactic acid 0.29 - 0.29 0.29 0.29 Salicylic acid - 0.29 - - - Oleic acid 0.16 0.16 0.16 1.6 - Ethanol 8.94 8.94 - - 8.94 Pentylene glycol - - 8.93 - - Zea Mays germ oil (corn) - - - 9.6 - NaOH qs pH5 qs pH5 qs pH5 qs pH5 qs pH5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Particle size (qm) 2.1 2.3 1.2 NA NA Blurring effect Good Good Good Very poor Poor

[0334] nd: not available [Evaluations]

[0335] Photographs of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and the composition according to Comparative Example 2 were obtained using a transmission electron microscope (TEM), Hitachi H-7600 TEM (100 kV), as shown in Figures 1 to 3, respectively.

[0336] It was found that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 include particles, while the composition according to Comparative Example 2 did not include any particles.

[0337] It is clear that the particles in the composition according to Examples 1 and 2 comprise chitosan and oleic acid.

[0338] (Particle size)

[0339] The particle size of the particles in the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 was measured using an ELSZ-2000 particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics).

[0340] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0341] It should be noted that it was not possible to measure the particle size for Comparative Example 2 because the composition according to Comparative Example 2 did not include any particles.

[0342] (Fade effect)

[0343] 3 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Examples Com Comparatives 1 and 2 were applied to the bottom of a Petri dish and dried at room temperature (25 °C) to form a free-standing film with a thickness of approximately 50 qm.

[0344] The above film was placed on a newspaper so that the distance between the above film and the newspaper was 2 cm, and the visibility of the characters on the newspaper via the film was then evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0345] Good: The characters were faded

[0346] Poor: The characters were not faded

[0347] Very poor: Characters were not seen

[0348] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0349] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 provided a translucent film. On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 provided an opaque film, and the composition according to Comparative Example 2 provided a transparent film. Example 4 and Comparative Example 3

[0350] Each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0351] The details of the preparation are as follows.

[0352] (Example 4)

[0353] First, 2.52 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 1.28 g of lactic acid and 96.20 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.

[0354] Secondly, separately, 0.69 g of oleic acid and 9.31 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in an amount of 10 g.

[0355] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition according to Example 4. The pH of the composition according to Example 4 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0356] (Comparative Example 3)

[0357] First, 2.52 g of chitosan raw material in the form of an 80% by weight aqueous solution, 1.28 g of lactic acid and 96.20 g of water were mixed to obtain a first mixture in an amount of 100 g.

[0358] Secondly, separately, 0.69 g of water and 9.31 g of ethanol were mixed to obtain a second mixture in a quantity of 10 g.

[0359] Then, 10 g of the first mixture and 1 g of the second mixture were mixed to obtain the composition according to Comparative Example 3. The pH of the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was corrected with NaOH to 5.

[0360] [Tables2] Ex. 4 Ex. Comp. 3 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.29 2.29 Lactic acid 1.16 1.16 Oleic acid 0.63 - Ethanol 8.46 8.46 NaOH qs pH5 qs pH5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Rheological property Gel Liquid Texture Good Poor Blending effect Good Poor [Evaluations] [0361 ] (Rheological property)

[0362] The rheological property of each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 was measured by a DHR-2 rheometer (TA instrument, frequency 1 Hz, cone type 20 mm q>2, stress sweep 0.01% to 1000%) at room temperature (25°C).

[0363] The rheological property of each composition demonstrated that the composition according to Example 4 is a gel, while the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was a liquid.

[0364] Furthermore, the rheological property of the composition according to Example 4 showed that this composition can have dilatancy effects.

[0365] (Texture)

[0366] 50 mg of each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 were applied to a panelist's hand with a finger. Texture during application was assessed according to the following criteria.

[0367] Good: Texture changed from thick or sticky to soft

[0368] Poor: The texture was thick or sticky and did not transition to soft

[0369] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0370] The composition according to Example 4 was able to provide a soft texture during application, while the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was unable to provide a soft texture during application.

[0371] (Fade effect)

[0372] 3 g of each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 have were applied to the bottom of a Petri dish and dried at room temperature (25°C) to form a free-standing film with a thickness of approximately 50 qm.

[0373] The above film was placed on a newspaper so that the distance between the above film and the newspaper was 2 cm, and the visibility of the characters on the newspaper via the film was then evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0374] Good: The characters were faded

[0375] Poor: Characters were not faded

[0376] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0377] The compositions according to Example 4 provided a translucent film. On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 3 provided a transparent film.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (b-1) at least one fatty acid, wherein the composition optionally comprises at least one oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and their salts.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (a-3) water.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the (b-1) fatty acid is chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, more preferably C8-C18.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (b-2) at least one alcohol, preferentially chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, and their mixture, and more preferentially chosen in the group consisting of ethanol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex.

9. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.

10. A particle comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; and (b-1) at least one fatty acid, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-1) fatty acid form at least one complex, and the particle is capable of having a particle size greater than 1.0 pm, preferably greater than 1.5 pm, and more preferably 2.0 pm or more, in water at 25°C, and the particle is capable of having a particle size less than 500 nm, preferably less than 400 nm, and more preferably less than 300 nm, when dried.

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