COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLYMER AND AT LEAST TWO FATTY ACIDS

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLYMER AND AT LEAST TWO FATTY ACIDS The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least two fatty acids, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less, and even more preferably 5.5 or less. The composition according to the present invention is stable and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLYMER AND AT LEAST TWO FATTY ACIDS

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including at least one cationic polymer and at least two fatty acids, and a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.

[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0005] A polyionic complex, formed from an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.

[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also indicates that the composition therein may include oil and may take the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] A first objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can comprise at least one cationic polymer and at least two fatty acids.

[0008] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0009] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising a. at least one cationic polymer; b. at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; c. water; and d. at least two fatty acids,

[0010] in which

[0011] the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0012] The (a) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0013] The (a) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of cyclo alkyldiallylamine polymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0014] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid and, more preferably, a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0016] The amount of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or one or more thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (d) fatty acids may be chosen from linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture thereof, and preferably linoleic acid, oleic acid and a mixture thereof.

[0019] The amount of (d) fatty acids in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one organic alkaline agent.

[0021] The (e) organic alkaline agent may be chosen from alkanolamines and acids basic amines, preferably from the group consisting of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, lysine, histidine, arginine and a mixture thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of triethanolamine, arginine and a mixture thereof.

[0022] The amount of the organic alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil.

[0024] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0026] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0027] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0028] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition which comprises at least one cationic polymer and at least two fatty acids, and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0029] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0031] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0032] (c) water; and

[0033] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0034] in which

[0035] the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention is stable so that the composition can maintain a uniform appearance for a long time, without forming large particles in the composition.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention can provide immediate matte effects. Matte effects can reduce the shine of a keratinous substance such as skin due to, for example, sebum.

[0039] Even if the composition according to the present invention comprises oil, the composition according to the present invention can provide an immediate matting effect. In addition, the immediate matting effects do not depend on the amount of the oil. Thus, for example, even if the amount of the oil increases, the composition according to the present invention can provide immediate matting effects.

[0040] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications.

[0041] If the (a) at least one cationic polymer is obtained from natural resources, the (a) cationic polymer may be an environmentally friendly ingredient. For example, the (a) cationic polymer may be selected from chitosans which are environmentally friendly. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0042] In addition, ingredients (b), (c) and (d) may be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. The composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.

[0043] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail. [Composition]

[0044] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0045] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0046] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0047] (c) water; and

[0048] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0049] in which

[0050] the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0051] In the composition according to the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer and the (d) fatty acids can form at least one complex.

[0052] A positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety such as an amino (-NH2 ) or ammonium (-NH3 + ) group of the (a) cationic polymer may interact ionically with the carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO ) group of the (d) fatty acids to form the complex. The complex includes at least one hy drophobic derived from the fatty fraction of (d) fatty acids. Therefore, the (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by (d) fatty acids by forming the complex.

[0053] (Cationic polymer)

[0054] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer. Only one type of cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0055] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0056] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a) cationic polymer is 1000 or more, preferably 2000 or more, more preferably 3000 or more, and even more preferably 4000 or more.

[0057] It may be particularly preferable that the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight greater than 20,000.

[0058] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight.

[0059] The (a) cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "(main) amino group" herein refers to a -NH2 group.

[0060] The (a) cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is intended to designate both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0061] The (a) cationic polymer may be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably from natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.

[0062] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or me- esters and amides thacrylics and comprising at least one unit chosen from the units of the following formulas: Rs Rs Rs CH?......Ç............CHî......C...............CH?......O........... O“Ç O“O to to HR § ix" i AAA ,H, ^4-......H'.......% RX! FC Ri< Rs

[0063]

[0064]

[0065]

[0066]

[0067]

[0068]

[0069] -~GHï—G--- G—Ç HH i A ç?,,______________Ps Jx: HS in which: R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups; R3, which may be the same or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3; the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as meth-osulfate anions and halides, e.g., chloride and bromide. The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by C1-C4 lower alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0070] Examples of copolymers of family (l) include, but are not limited to:

[0071] copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

[0072] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 080 976,

[0073] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

[0074] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,

[0075] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers and

[0076] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.

[0077] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0078] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a trialkylquaternaryammonium group and more preferably, a trimethylquaternaryammonium group.

[0079] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I): 0H Rs

[0080] in which

[0081] each of R1 and R2 denotes a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably a group methyl or ethyl, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0082] R3 denotes a C, 24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0083] X denotes a union, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

[0084] n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10 and more preferably 0, and

[0085] R4 denotes a C1-4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0086] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0087] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group is -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0088] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and Cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt selected from methacryloyl-ethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium salts.

[0089] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products marketed under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company National Starch.

[0090] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US patents Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example the chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) may also be used.

[0091] These products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0092] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and alkylene or hy- groups Divalent droxyalkylene polymers comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

[0093] (6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity selected from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyldiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity selected from bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides being optionally alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0094] (7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of poly- alkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0095] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0096] (9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one unit from among the units of formulae (Ia) and (Ib):

[0097] la)

[0098] Ib) JCH2)k .............(CHs)t.......CW XÇ <M..........QHs........

[0099] in which:

[0100] k and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

[0101] Rn is chosen from hydrogen and methyl groups;

[0102] R10 and Rn, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and lower (C1-C4)alkylamido groups, or R10 and Rn may form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and

[0103] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

[0104] In one embodiment, Rio and Rn, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0105] Among these polymers, mention may be made, but not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the homopolymer of dimethyldiethylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by the company CALGON (and its counterparts of low average molecular weight by weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".

[0106] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): Ria Rw (II) • hf A; N* ■ | X | X Ru Ru

[0107] in which:

[0108] Rn, Ru, Rb and R16, which may be the same or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or Rn, R[4, R15 and R16, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles alternatively comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R13, R14, R15, and R16 which may be the same or different, are selected from linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from alkyl groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups and -CO-NH-Rp-E groups, where R17 is an alkylene group and E is an ammonium group quaternary;

[0109] Ai and Bb which may be identical or different, are chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and

[0110] X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0111] Ai, Rn and Rb can form, in conjugation with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0112] if Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:

[0113] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-

[0114] in which E' is chosen from:

[0115] a) glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, in which Z is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:

[0116] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-

[0117] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-

[0118] in which x and y, which may be the same or different, are chosen from whole numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;

[0119] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

[0120] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-. and

[0121] d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0122] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0123] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patents Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0124] Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (III):

[0125] in which

[0126] Rn, Ru, Rb and R[6, which may be the same or different, are chosen from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. 1. Polyquaterary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV):

[0127] (IV)

[0128] in which:

[0129] R18, R19, R2o and R2i, which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl, -CH 2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH, in which p is selected from integers ranging from 0 to 6, provided that R[8, R19, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

[0130] r and s, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 1 to 6,

[0131] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

[0132] X is an anion, such as a halide, and

[0133] A is chosen from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0134] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324. 1. Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0135] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0136] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. 1. Polyamines

[0137] As (a) cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the polymer backbone or a pendant group, if any, of the (co)polyamines.

[0138] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosans, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)poly arginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinyl acetals and their salts.

[0139] As (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine may be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine may be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Poly-L-Lysine is preferable. Polylysine may be in the form of a salt and / or a solution. 1. Cationic polyamino acids

[0140] As (a) cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendant group, if any, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, if any, of the cationic polyamino acids.

[0141] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

[0142] The following descriptions relate to preferable embodiments of the cationic polymer.

[0143] It is preferable that the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0144] It is more preferable that the (a) cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans.

[0145] It is preferable that the chitosan has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, more preferably, greater than 80,000. In in other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

[0146] The molecular weight (Da) of the chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and, more preferably, less than 300,000.

[0147] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably, greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

[0148] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight. Molecular weight may be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0149] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0150] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a [3 (1,4)] type bond.

[0151] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of monomers [3-D-glucosamine linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0152] The "chitosan" according to the present invention designates any copolymer formed from constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by bonds of type [3 (1,4) and is a polymer of type Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine).

[0153] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0154] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0155] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0156] The chitosan of the present invention is preferentially derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungi, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0157] Chitosan can be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0158] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0159] A process for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0160] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

[0161] It is preferable that (a) is chosen from chitosans, and more preferably chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0162] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] (Non-polymeric monovalent acid or salt thereof)

[0166] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.

[0167] The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.

[0168] The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

[0169] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof is less than 1,000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 200 or less.

[0170] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group and a mixture thereof.

[0171] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and salts thereof.

[0172] It is preferable that the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.

[0173] The monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid may be chosen from hydroxy acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, salicylic acid.

[0174] The monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxyl such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0175] The amount of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) (b) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The amount of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] (Water)

[0179] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0180] The amount of (c) water may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the weight total composition.

[0181] Furthermore, the amount of (c) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The amount of (c) water may be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] (Fatty Acid)

[0184] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least two fatty acids. Three or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0185] The (d) fatty acids are different from the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof.

[0186] The (d) fatty acids can hydrophobize the (a) cationic polymer.

[0187] The term “fatty acid” herein refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0188] Each of the (d) fatty acids comprises at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at least 8 carbon atoms. Each of the (d) fatty acids may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms and, more preferably, up to 22 carbon atoms. It is preferable that each of the (d) fatty acids is chosen from a C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably a C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably a C8-C22 fatty acid.

[0189] Each of the (d) fatty acids may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (d) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, and more preferably in C8-C22.

[0190] As linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched monounsaturated fatty acids or linear or branched polyunsaturated fatty acids may be used. As the unsaturated fraction of the linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.

[0191] As saturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (CM ), pentadecanoic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Ci7 ), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0192] As unsaturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), li- nolenic acid (C[8), elaidic acid (C[8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).

[0193] It is preferable that each of the (d) fatty acids is chosen from unsaturated fatty acids, and more preferably unsaturated fatty acids in C8-C22 and even more preferably unsaturated fatty acids in C8-C22 with one, two or three carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0194] It is preferable that each of the (d) fatty acids is selected from the group consisting of linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof, and even more preferentially linoleic acid, oleic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0195] As (d) fatty acids, vitamin F may be used. Vitamin F herein refers to a mixture of a plurality of unsaturated fatty acids that includes, at least, linoleic acid. It is preferable that vitamin F includes linoleic acid and linolenic acid. It is preferable that vitamin F includes linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and linolenic acid.

[0196] The amount of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Furthermore, the amount of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] Consequently, the amount of the (d) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] (Organic alkaline agent)

[0200] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one organic alkaline agent. Only one type of organic alkaline agent may be used, but two or more different types of organic alkaline agents may be used in combination.

[0201] As (e) organic alkaline agent, any conventional organic alkaline agent in the field of cosmetics can be used.

[0202] It is preferable that the (e) organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives such as guanidine carbonate.

[0203] Examples of the (e) organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: RI R3 RRH / \ R2 R4

[0204] wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rh R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0205] It is preferable that the (e) organic alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines and basic amino acids, more preferably from the group consisting of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, lysine, histidine, arginine and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably from the group consisting of triethanolamine, arginine and a mixture thereof.

[0206] The amount of the organic alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] The amount of the organic alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] The amount of the organic alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] (Oil)

[0210] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

[0211] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0212] The (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0213] The (f) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0214] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0216] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0217] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0218] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0219] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0220] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0221] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0222] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0223] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0224] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C[2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0225] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0226] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0227] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0228] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0229] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, trili- glyceryl nolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tri-caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0231] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0233] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0234] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0235] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly from:

[0236] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the di-methylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of formula: DD ----DD —; ÇHa '--------------------------------J with D”: ° ~~ with D?: "" & ™ O -

[0237] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0238] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atonies and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0239] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0240] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • oils from the 200 range from Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0241] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0242] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

[0243] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0244] in which

[0245] Ri to Rio are, independently of one another, radicals based on saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably radicals based on C1-C12 hydrocarbons and more preferably radicals based on C1-C6 hydrocarbons, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0246] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0247] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0248] Products sold under the following names are examples that can be cited: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0249] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Rià Rio are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.

[0250] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0251] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0252] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0253] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

[0254] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0255] Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0256] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0257] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 alcohols.

[0258] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols, saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 fatty alcohols may be used preferentially. Any saturated, linear or branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used preferentially. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.

[0259] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

[0260] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferentially chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] It is preferable that the (f) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and their mixtures, and more preferably from vegetable oils.

[0262] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the com- position.

[0263] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] (Optional ingredient)

[0266] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than the (a) cationic polymer or volatile or non-volatile organic solvents such as monovalent or divalent alcohols (e.g. ethanol and pentylene glycol); anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than the (a) cationic polymer; waxes; and the like, within a range which does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0267] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] The amount of the synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include a synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener.

[0269] The amount of the anionic polymer(s) or amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise an anionic or amphoteric polymer. [pH]

[0270] The pH of the composition according to the present invention is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5. It may be particularly preferable for the composition according to the present invention to have a pH of 5.0 or less.

[0271] In other words, the composition according to the present invention is acidic.

[0272] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and / or the at least one alkaline agent and / or (c) organic alkaline agent. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent. [Preparation]

[0273] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0274] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0275] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. In addition, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]

[0276] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element and, examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair or body hair and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.

[0277] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care composition. [Shape]

[0278] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form.

[0279] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution, a dispersion, or a gel.

[0280] The composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0281] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water and (f) at least one oil, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, for example, an O / W or W / O emulsion. [ Movie ]

[0282] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can form a film.

[0283] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of 0.5 μm or more, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising:

[0284] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0285] drying the composition.

[0286] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention may be 300 μm or less, preferably 200 μm or less, and more preferably 100 μm or less.

[0287] Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require spin coating or spraying, and therefore it is possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as spin coatings and spraying machines.

[0288] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention may be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials may be used. In any case, it is preferable that the substrate be soft or elastic.

[0289] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the ma nipulation of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 μm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 μm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 μm.

[0290] It is more preferable that the film according to the present invention can be released from the non-keratinous substrate. The release mode is not limited. For example, the film according to the present invention can be peeled from the non-keratinous substrate.

[0291] The present invention may also relate to:

[0292] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process comprising:

[0293] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0294] drying the composition,

[0295] and

[0296] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, comprising:

[0297] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0298] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof; and

[0299] (d) at least two fatty acids.

[0300] The above explanations concerning the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, as well as (c) water and the (d) fatty acids, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the film (2) above.

[0301] The film according to the present invention may also comprise (e) an organic alkaline agent and / or (f) at least one oil. The above explanations concerning the (e) organic alkaline agent and the (b) oil for the composition according to the present invention may apply to those which may be included in the film according to the present invention.

[0302] The film according to the present invention may be biocompatible and / or biodegradable.

[0303] The term "biocompatible" in this specification means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction between the film and cells in the living body including the skin, and that the film is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

[0304] The term "biodegradable" in this specification means that the film can be degraded or broken down in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself, or the metabolism of microorganisms that can be present in the living body. Also, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0305] If the film according to the present invention is biocompatible and / or biodegradable, for example, it may be less irritable or non-irritable to the skin and / or it may not contaminate environments.

[0306] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer chosen from chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.

[0307] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably the skin, in particular the face. The film according to the present invention can take any form. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0308] The present invention also relates to:

[0309] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or

[0310] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0311] The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0312] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

[0313] The present invention may relate to a process for stabilizing a composition, comprising:

[0314] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0315] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0316] (c) water; and

[0317] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0318] by controlling the pH of the composition to be less than 7.0, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less, and even more preferably 5.5 or less.

[0319] In one embodiment, the present invention may also relate to a use of (e) at least one organic alkaline agent

[0320] in a composition comprising:

[0321] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0322] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0323] (c) water; and

[0324] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0325] in order to stabilize the composition while controlling the pH of the composition to be less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0326] The above explanations regarding the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, (c) water and the (d) fatty acids for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those in the above use.

[0327] The composition which relates to the above use according to the present invention may also comprise (e) at least one organic alkaline agent and / or (f) at least one oil. The above explanations concerning the (e) organic alkaline agent and the (b) oil for the composition according to the present invention may apply to those which may be included in the composition which relates to the use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0328] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 [Preparations]

[0329] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0330] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Vitamin F 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Triethanolamine - qs qs qs qs PH 4.7 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 Stability Good Good Fair Poor Poor

[0331] Vitamin F: Mixture of linoleic acid (77% by weight), oleic acid (14% by weight), palmitic acid (5% by weight), stearic acid (2% by weight) and linolenic acid (2% by weight) [Evaluation]

[0332] (Stability)

[0333] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was stored in a transparent container and kept at room temperature (25°C) for two weeks. The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0334] Good: No particles were observed.

[0335] Correct: Small particles were observed.

[0336] Bad: Large particles were observed.

[0337] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0338] The compositions according to Examples 1-3 were stable such that the former retained a uniform appearance without forming large particles, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-2 were not stable since large particles were observed. Examples 4-5 and comparative examples 3-4 [Preparations]

[0339] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 3-4 has was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the ingredient quantities shown in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” of raw materials.

[0340] [Tables2] Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Oleic acid 0.15 0.15 1.0 1.0 Linoleic acid 0.85 0.85 - - Soybean oil - 5.0 - 5.0 PH 4.71 4.60 4.93 5.22 Immediate matt effect Control Very good Control Very poor

[0341] (Immediate matte effect)

[0342] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4-5 and Comparative Examples 3-4 was spread on a contrast sheet with an automatic film applicator to form a layer of 100 qm and allowed to dry at 37°C for 24 hours.

[0343] The reflectance on the white part of the above sheet was measured three times by a lustrometer (GM-268, Konika Minolta) as the 60° gloss value, and averaged. The 60° gloss value of the composition according to Example 4 was set as the first control. The 60° gloss value of the composition according to Example 5 was compared with that of the first control, and evaluated according to the following criteria. In addition, the 60° gloss value of the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was set as the second control. The 60° gloss value of the composition according to Comparative Example 4 was compared with that of the second control, and evaluated according to the following criteria

[0344] Very good: Identical

[0345] Good: Slightly different

[0346] Bad: Different

[0347] Bad: Very different

[0348] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0349] The luster of the compositions according to Example 5 was the same as that of the composition according to Example 4. It can be understood that the immediate matte effect of the composition according to the present invention including a plurality of fatty acids is not influenced by the inclusion of oil.

[0350] The luster of the compositions according to Comparative Example 4 was very different from that of the composition according to Example 3. It can be understood that the immediate matte effect is significantly influenced by the inclusion of oil if only one fatty acid is used. Examples 1 and 6-11 [Preparations]

[0351] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 6-11 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 3 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0352] [Tables3] Ex. 1 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Vitamin F 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 soy - 1.0 5.0 10.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 PH 4.70 4.76 4.70 4.85 4.90 4.93 4.95 Immediate matt effect Control Very good Very good Very good Very good Good Very good

[0353] Vitamin F: Mixture of linoleic acid (77% by weight), oleic acid (14% by weight), palmitic acid (5% by weight), stearic acid (2% by weight) and linolenic acid (2% by weight) [Evaluation]

[0354] (Immediate matte effect)

[0355] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 6-11 was spread on a contrast sheet with an automatic film applicator to form a 100 qm layer and allowed to dry at 37°C for 24 hours.

[0356] The reflectance on the white part of the above sheet was measured three times by a lustrometer (GM-268, Konika Minolta) as the 60° gloss value, and averaged. The 60° gloss value of the composition according to Example 1 was set as a control. The 60° gloss value of the composition according to Examples 6-11 was compared with that of the control, and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0357] Very good: Identical

[0358] Good: Slightly different

[0359] Bad: Different

[0360] Bad: Very different

[0361] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0362] The luster of the compositions according to Examples 6-11 was the same or similar to that of the composition according to Example 1. It can be understood that the immediate matte effect of the composition according to the present invention including a plurality of fatty acids, is not influenced by the inclusion of oil, regardless of the amount of the oil.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least two fatty acids, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.

5.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and their salts.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (d) fatty acids are selected from linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof, and preferably linoleic acid, oleic acid, and a mixture thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the composition further comprises (e) at least one organic alkaline agent.

8. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the (e) organic alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines and basic amino acids, preferably from the group consisting of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, lysine, histidine, arginine and a mixture thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of triethanolamine, arginine and a mixture thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, the composition further comprising (f) at least one oil.

10. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.