COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION

Abstract

COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 glyceryl fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester, and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least 8% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iv) at least 2% by weight of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of cosmetic products dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] Different cosmetic products will include different cosmetic active ingredients depending on the desired use.

[0004] Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol is a sugar-protein hybrid derived from xylose, a natural sugar found abundantly in beech trees. It can promote the production of collagen and natural skin moisturizers, such as hyaluronic acid. It can therefore help slow down the aging of the skin and give it a plump appearance.

[0005] Nicotinamide, also known as VB3, can protect and soothe the skin.

[0006] In order to achieve high cosmetic efficacy, it is desirable to have a high content of cosmetic active ingredients in cosmetic products.

[0007] However, it has been found that when high dosages of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and nicotinamide are added to a cream formula, the resulting formula is not stable.

[0008] Consequently, it is desirable to provide stable compositions, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, which comprise a relatively high content of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and / or a similar compound and a relatively high content of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof. Summary of the invention

[0009] The object of the present invention is to prepare stable compositions comprising a relatively high content of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and / or a similar compound and a relatively high content of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, which are stable.

[0010] The present invention also aims to propose a non-therapeutic method of caring for and / or making up keratin materials with the compositions above- above.

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions comprising a relatively high content of hydroxypropyl tetrahydro-pyrantriol and / or a similar compound and a relatively high content of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, which are stable.

[0012] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0014] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof;

[0015] (iii) at least 8% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0016] (iv) at least 2% by weight of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oily phase.

[0018] The composition of the present invention is stable, namely that it does not exhibit phase separation after running at 4000 rpm for 4 hours at 45°C.

[0019] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.

[0020] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in the specification have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0022] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0023] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0024] The expression "and / or" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or both" of the elements indicated.

[0025] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used in the specification, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0026] As used in the description, the expression "keratin materials" refers to the skin and the lips. By "skin" is meant all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material designates the skin of the face.

[0027] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0029] (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0030] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof;

[0031] (iii) at least 8% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0032] (iv) at least 2% by weight of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition. Saturated C14-C22 fatty acids

[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0034] Examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids include myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, cetearyl acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and combinations thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0036] More preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from C14-C18 fatty acids linear and saturated.

[0037] Particularly preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combinations thereof.

[0038] Advantageously, the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants

[0039] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof.

[0040] As used in the specification, glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester refers to an ester of glycerol and a C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0041] For the C14-C22 fatty acid esters of glyceryl, the C14-C22 fatty acid may be an unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched acid, for example, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and / or myristic acid.

[0042] Examples of C14-C22 glyceryl fatty acid esters include glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] As used in the specification, the polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester is an ester of polyethylene glycol and a C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0044] For the polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid esters, the C14-C22 fatty acid may be an unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched acid, for example, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and / or myristic acid.

[0045] Preferably, the polyethylene glycol comprises from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups. More preferably, the polyethylene glycol comprises from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups. Most preferably, the polyethylene glycol comprises from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups.

[0046] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, and combinations thereof.

[0047] More preferably still, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a C14-C22 fatty acid chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0048] More preferably still, the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and a mixture thereof.

[0049] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is a mixture of glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, and esters of polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a C14-C22 fatty acid chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid.

[0050] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

[0051] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] It has been discovered with the combination of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof, that the composition according to the present invention can have a lamellar structure, the structure being able to help to increase the viscosity of the composition and to increase the stability of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the weight ratio of the at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid to the at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof, is less than 2.5, preferably less than 1.8. C-glycosides

[0054] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 8% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from the compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) S'—~ V)

[0056] in which:

[0057] - R represents a saturated C1-C10 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C4, which can be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated Cr-C4 alkyl radical.

[0058] - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, wherein said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and

[0059] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0060] the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3,

[0061] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0062] The C-glycosides used for implementing the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical in C1-C6, in particular in C1-C4, preferentially in C1-C2 and more preferentially, a methyl radical.

[0063] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made in particular of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.

[0064] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R moreover retaining all the above definitions.

[0065] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

[0066] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0067] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0068] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used for which:

[0069] - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular a methyl radical;

[0070] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0071] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2) and, preferably- initially a -CH(OH)- group.

[0072] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Particular examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0073] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may be made in particular of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0074] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0075] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or mixed with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0076] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0077] In particular, by way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned:

[0078] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0079] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0080] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0081] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0082] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0083] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0084] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0085] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0086] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0087] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0088] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0089] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0090] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0091] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0092] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0093] - l-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0094] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0095] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0096] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0097] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0098] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0099] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0100] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0101] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

[0102] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0103] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 70% by weight of active substance in water and propylene glycol.

[0104] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 8% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 9% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 9.5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nicotinamide and / or derivatives thereof

[0105] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 2% by weight of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Nicotinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a compound with the following formula:

[0107] Nicotinamide derivatives that may be cited include, for example, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, nicotinyl hydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from nicotinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, products resulting from a reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0108] Mention may also be made of the following derivatives, namely: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, ni-fenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0109] Advantageously, nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0110] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0111] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The continuous aqueous phase comprises water.

[0113] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Optionally, the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 25°C) such as, for example, monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms of carbon, and preferably comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (comprising in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Where appropriate, the organic solvent is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0116] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one dispersed oily phase.

[0117] The oily phase contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances such as waxes, for example beeswax.

[0118] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0119] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0120] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0121] The expression “volatile oil” designates any oil which has the capacity to evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0122] The oily phase may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils such as dimethicone, or mixtures thereof.

[0123] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0124] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0125] The expression “silicone oil” designates an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.

[0126] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0127] Preferably, the oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferably isononyl isononanoate.

[0128] Advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0129] As a composition for the care of keratin materials, the composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0130] Examples of other cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; lightening agents; firming agents; exfoliating agents; restorative and soothing agents; agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

[0131] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0132] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, additional surfactants (for example, a non-ionic surfactant such as a C12-C22 fatty alcohol, a C12-C22 alkyl glucoside), thickeners such as sodium polyacrylate, a carbomer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, xanthan gum, fillers, pH adjusters, saponifiers (such as potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Those skilled in the art can adjust the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to negatively impact the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0135] (i) from 1% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and their combination;

[0136] (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a C14-C22 fatty acid selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, and combinations thereof;

[0137] (iii) from 8% by weight to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and

[0138] (iv) from 4% by weight to 10% by weight of nicotinamide. Method and use

[0139] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials.

[0140] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

[0141] In particular, the keratin materials may be skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0142] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0143] The main raw materials used, their trade names and associated suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0144] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA Stearic acid EDENOR®ST 05MY Emery Oleo-chemicals Group Nicotinamide Nicotinamide PC DSM Nutritional Products Isononyl isononanoate Radia 7710 Oleon NV Dimethicone XIAMETER(R) PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS Dow Corning Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate NIKKOL SMT NIKKO CHEMICALS Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) Arachidyl glucoside MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC

[0145] Example of the invention 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3

[0146] The compositions of the inventive example (EI) 1 and comparative examples (CE) 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given in % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] [Tables2] EL Components 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Stearic Acid 0.795 0.795 0 0 Palmitic Acid 0.66 0.66 0 0 Myristic Acid 0.045 0.045 0 0 Cetyl Alcohol 0 0 0 1.5 Isononyl Isononanoate 1 1 1 1 Dimethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Beeswax 2.73 2.73 2.73 2.73 PEG-100 Stearate 1.5 0 1.5 0 Glyceryl Stearate 1.5 0 1.5 0 Sodium Methylstearoyltaurate 0 0 0 3 Behenyl Alcohol 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Arachidyl Alcohol 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 Arachidyl glucoside 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 Nicotinamide 5 5 5 5 Sodium polyacrylate 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0148] The composition of the inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0149] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof.

[0150] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not comprise at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0151] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not comprise at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid and at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Preparation process:

[0153] The compositions listed above were prepared in the following manner, in taking as an example the composition of the invention example 1:

[0154] 1. heating stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside, dimethicone, isononyl isononanoate and beeswax, at 75-80°C to obtain mixture A;

[0155] 2. heating the water to 75-80 °C;

[0156] 3. addition of mixture A into water at 75-80°C with stirring;

[0157] 4. addition of sodium potassium at 75-80°C with stirring;

[0158] 5. addition of sodium polyacrylate at 75-80°C with stirring;

[0159] 6. addition of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and nicotinamide at 75-80 °C under hustle ;

[0160] 7. cooling of the composition obtained. Evaluation of compositions

[0161] The stability of each prepared composition was evaluated.

[0162] A LUMiSizer® machine was used to predict long-term stability under extreme conditions. During the test, the composition to be evaluated was contained in a test tube and was placed in the LUMiSizer® machine. The machine was operated according to the predefined protocol, i.e. at 4000 rpm, for 4 hours and at 45 °C.

[0163] Once the test is completed, stability can be assessed based on the sample separation conditions.

[0164] If there is no separation between the aqueous phase and the oily phase of the composition being evaluated, then the composition passes the stability test.

[0165] If there is separation between the aqueous phase and the oily phase of the composition being evaluated, then the composition fails the stability test.

[0166] The results of the stability of the compositions of the invention example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 have been summarized below.

[0167] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Stability Success Failure Failure Failure

[0168] It can be seen that the composition of the inventive example 1 is stable.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably intended for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least 8% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iv) at least 2% by weight of nicotinamide and / or a derivative thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the fatty acid is chosen from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, and combinations thereof, preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, polyethylene glycol esters comprising from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and combinations thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the weight ratio of the at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid to the at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl C14-C22 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylenated C14-C22 fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof, is less than 2.5, preferably less than 1.

8.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the C-glycoside being chosen from the compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) s—7 in which: - R represents a saturated C1-C4, in particular C1-C4, alkyl radical which may be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical. - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be a or [3, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the C-glycoside is selected from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

7.

8.

9.

10. - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the nicotinamide derivative is selected from 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isoni-cotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, niaprazine, methyl nicotinate, sodium nicotinate, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, the composition comprising an aqueous phase in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, the composition comprising an oily phase in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratin materials.