Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter and its use in cosmetics

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter and its use in cosmetics. The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; at least one non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type comprising at least one linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms; at least one anionic surfactant of glutamic acid salt type; at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and at least one copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter and its use in cosmetics Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and more particularly dedicated to skin care.

[0002] It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. Prior art

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least (a) at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; (b) at least one non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type comprising at least one linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms; (c) at least one anionic surfactant of glutamic acid salt type; (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and (e) at least one copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized; and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0004] In the cosmetic field, more and more consumers are looking for cosmetic products not only intended for the care of keratin materials, but also possessing photoprotective activity for keratin materials, while remaining very demanding as to their sensory qualities and performance.

[0005] It is known that light radiation with a wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the browning of the human epidermis. Rays with a wavelength more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns which can harm the development of natural tanning.

[0006] For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tan in order to control the color of the skin: it is therefore appropriate to filter UV-B radiation.

[0007] It is also known that UV-A rays, with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are likely to induce an alteration of the skin, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature skin aging.

[0008] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as preserving the natural elasticity of the skin, for example, more and more people want to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.

[0009] In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, photo-protective compositions are generally used, comprising organic filters, active in UV-A and active in UV-B.

[0010] Many cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection of the skin have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid support (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules, capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, soluble in the oily and / or aqueous phase.

[0011] One of the major drawbacks of these compositions containing organic filters lies in the difficulty of reconciling good stability of the product over time, while presenting good sensoriality such as freshness on application, effective protection, good glide on application and little or no soaping during application.

[0012] Indeed, the use of certain organic filters in these emulsions for caring for keratin materials tends to deteriorate their sensory qualities, when the composition is taken from the pot (when the formulas are packaged in this way), but also when they are applied to the skin. Thus, the presence of organic UV filters leads in particular to less slippery and more soapy spreading. In addition, the skin finish is also altered by the presence of such filters, and results in formulas that are less fresh on the skin.

[0013] The aim of the present invention is therefore to have a specific combination of raw materials making it possible to formulate compositions for caring for keratin materials in the form of emulsions with the use of UV filters, in particular organic ones, without the drawbacks stated above. This need is all the greater as the market for daily photoprotection is expanding. More and more hybrid products providing skin care and protection with SPF 20-30 are being launched, but the challenge remains of providing a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The world of skin care remains very different from the field of photoprotection at the consumer experience level, especially with products sold in jars, which increases the complexity of formula development. We are therefore looking to have a product with SPF, especially an SPF of at least 20, preferably at least 30, while maintaining the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

[0014] In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an interesting sensory aspect, in particular with good spreading properties (sliding formulas but with limited soaping), allowing daily photoprotection and which can be marketed in packaging conventionally used in the field of skin care, in particular a pot formulation.

[0015] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0016] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0017] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0018] The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0019] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention therefore relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: (a) at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; (b) at least one non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type comprising at least one linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms; (c) at least one anionic surfactant of glutamic acid salt type;

[0020] (d) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and

[0021] (e) at least one copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane acid sulfonic acid (AMPS), possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized.

[0022] In a particular embodiment, said non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type comprise in particular:

[0023] i) at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A):

[0024] R!-C(O)-O-R2 (A): in which: R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C[8 to C44] fatty chain, at least R1 or R2 is unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated; ii) at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol of formula (B): R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B): in which:

[0025] n = 2 to 6 R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a saturated fatty chain of C[8 to C44, linear or branched.

[0026] In a particular embodiment, said ester-type non-ionic surfactant(s) comprise POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS.

[0027] The composition according to the invention comprises in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] In a particular embodiment, said non-ionic surfactant(s) of fatty alcohol type is C16 to C22 and comprises at least cetyl alcohol, and preferably at least cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s) of fatty alcohol type relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In a particular embodiment, said non-ionic surfactants of ester type and fatty alcohol type are used in the form of a mixture.

[0031] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains at least one wax, notably chosen from beeswax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof.

[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises in particular an active material (AM) content of said anionic surfactant of glutamic acid salt type greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.4% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter, preferably chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter, preferably chosen from Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, and optionally further comprising at least one solid lipophilic organic mixed UV filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Tri-siloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

[0034] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone oils and / or organopolysiloxane elastomer and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG) and / or liquid lipophilic organic UV filters, preferably free of octocrylene and / or ethylhexylsalicylate and / or homosalate,

[0035] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have discovered that the combination of raw materials according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions having interesting sensory properties, and in particular freshness on application, good grip in the pot, good slip and low soaping, while retaining satisfactory stability over time and protecting the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation.

[0036] The compositions according to the present invention advantageously make it possible to convey ingredients of various natures such as cosmetic active ingredients, particles, polymers, perfumes, colorants, mother-of-pearls depending on the different desired benefit(s).

[0037] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to these keratin materials, in particular the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0038] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows. Detailed description

[0039] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0040] By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin and the appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0041] By "keratin materials" is meant in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair and body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0042] By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolleté and neck.

[0043] In the context of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the UVAPF.

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means the sun protection factor which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with a photoprotective composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0045] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the photoprotective composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A particular protocol, presented as an example, is currently undergoing ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0046] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444: 2019 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)”.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, UVAPF means the index characterizing protection against UVA. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, ISO-24442: 2022 protocol, by the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. The evaluation of protection against UVA can also be measured in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. The ISO 24443: 2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid lipophilic organic UV filter” means a lipophilic organic UV filter which, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), flows under its own weight.

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid lipophilic organic UV filter" means a lipophilic organic UV filter which, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), does not flow under its own weight, in other words is not liquid, the solid lipophilic organic UV filter being able to be malleable or not. It can in particular be in powder form.

[0050] By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm.

[0051] By “organic UVB filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0052] By “mixed organic UV filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm, but also UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0053] By "lipophilic organic UV filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

[0055] By "water-soluble organic filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0056] By "water-dispersible organic filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.

[0057] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0058] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0059] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to mean the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0060] In the context of the present invention, by "prevent" or "prevention" is meant according to the invention the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

[0061] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0062] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”. Non-ionic surfactants

[0063] As specified above, a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant of specific ester type as detailed below and at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols with a linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms. A. Ester-type non-ionic surfactant

[0064] More specifically, said non-ionic surfactant of ester type suitable for the invention comprises:

[0065] i) at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A):

[0066] R*-C(O)-O-R2 (A): in which: R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C[8 to C44] fatty chain, at least R1 or R2 is unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated; and (ii) at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol of formula (B):

[0067] R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B): in which: n = 2 to 6

[0068] R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a linear or branched C[8 to C44] saturated fatty chain.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A) in which R1 and R2 respectively represent a C[8 to C30] fatty chain, with at least one of the groups R1 and R2 being unsaturated, preferably mono-unsaturated and at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B) in which R3-C(O)- and R4 each represent a chain saturated fat, linear or branched in C2o to C34.

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS. Unsaturated ester of formula (A):

[0071] More specifically, in formula (A), the R1—C(O) group corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid. This chain can be linear or unsaturated, and comprises at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of oleic (C18:1), ga-doleic (C20:1), erucic (C22:1) acids, up to hexacosanoic acid (C26:1) for unsaturated acids. The R1—C(O) group can also consist of branched and saturated acids of at least 18 carbon atoms, also called Guerbet acids. The R2—O— group can consist of monounsaturated linear fatty alcohols with at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention may thus be made of octadecenol, eicosenol, docosenol and hexacosenol. The carbon chain of the alcohol can also be branched and saturated and contain at least 18 carbon atoms. Such alcohols are also called Guerbet alcohols.

[0072] Preferably, the unsaturated ester of formula (A) is a mixture of esters comprising different fatty chain lengths in their structures. More preferably, such an unsaturated ester is liquid at room temperature.

[0073] As a preferred unsaturated ester according to the invention, the product commonly called jojoba oil (or jojoba esters) may be mentioned, the liquid nature being due to the presence of monounsaturated chains. This oil comprises in particular esters of unsaturated fatty acids C18:1 (preferably minority), C20:1 and C22:1 (preferably majority with C20:1>C22:1), with unsaturated fatty alcohols C20:1, C22:1 and C24:1.

[0074] Fatty acid diester of polyglycerol of formula 1B):

[0075] According to one embodiment, in formula (B) of fatty acid diester and polyglycerol, the group R3-C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of a fatty acid in C[8 to C44, preferably in C14-22, said acid usually being linear and saturated, preferably corresponding to a linear and saturated fatty acid in C20 to C34. This therefore includes eicosanoic (or arachidic) acid (C20), docosanoic (or behenic) acid (C22), tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24), hexacosanoic (or ketonic) acid (C26). The group R4 corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being linear saturated and having a C[8 to C^ chain, preferably a C20 to C34 chain. n is an integer between 2 and 6.Typically, the C[4-C22] fatty acid may be selected from the group consisting of myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and arachidic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] The polyglycerol may be a polymer of glycerol units, preferably a polymer having an average degree of polymerization between 4 and 8, preferably 6.

[0077] Preferably, this diester is a diester of distearic acid with hexaglycerol. Preferably, it is polyglyceryl-6 distearate.

[0078] According to one embodiment of the invention, this diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol is obtained by esterification of a solid wax with at least one polyol.

[0079] For the purposes of the invention, a solid wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, which may range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C. Solid waxes which are more particularly suitable have a melting point between 50 and 90°C.

[0080] Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, Ouricuri wax, Shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of solid natural waxes. Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

[0081] Generally speaking, waxes are mixtures comprising mainly monoesters of very long chain fatty acids and alcohols. Depending on the source of the wax, this mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax.

[0082] As for the polyol, used for the esterification of the wax, it is preferably selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methyl propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer with glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization between 2 and 5, preferably 3. Preferably, the polyol is polyglycerol-3.

[0083] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic ester considered according to the invention may comprise, in addition to at least one compound of formula (A) and at least one compound (B), at least one compound resulting from the esterification of beeswax with polyglycerol-3. In particular, the non-ionic ester considered according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-3-Beeswax.

[0084] More precisely, the non-ionic ester surfactant considered according to the invention is advantageously obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax and at least one polyol in the presence of at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A) and optionally at least one catalyst.

[0085] Preferred catalysts are alkali or alkali metal hydroxides or alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or tin or titanium based catalysts.

[0086] Advantageously, the solid wax is selected from the group consisting of camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, Ouricuri wax, beeswax and Shellac wax.

[0087] In a preferred embodiment, the ester-type surfactant is obtained by reaction of jojoba wax, beeswax and a polyglycerol, such as for example polyglycerol-3.

[0088] In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C.

[0089] Preferably, the mass ratio of unsaturated ester of formula (A) / solid wax varies between 5 / 95 and 95 / 5, advantageously between 30 / 70 and 75 / 25.

[0090] The solid wax / polyol mass ratio preferably varies between 1 / 99 and 99 / 1, advantageously between 95 / 5 and 50 / 50.

[0091] Preferably, the proportion of esterified polyol varies from 0.5 to 50% by weight of the mixture, the proportion of esterified fatty acids varies from 20 to 60% by weight of the mixture and the proportion of esterified fatty alcohols varies from 20 to 60% by weight of the mixture.

[0092] The non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type may be present in a composition of the invention in an amount varying from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. B) Non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type

[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols.

[0094] According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type is chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature, saturated, linear, and comprising from 14 to 26 carbon atoms.

[0095] The fatty alcohol(s) which may be suitable for the invention are in particular chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenic alcohol and myricyl alcohol.

[0096] According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type is C16 to C22 and comprises at least cetyl alcohol.

[0097] As cetyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16 / 98 F and ECOROL® 16 / 98 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TE-GOALKANOL® 16 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, LANETTE® 16 marketed by the company BASF, VEGAROL® 1698 marketed by the company WF, ALKONAT® 1698 P marketed by the company Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN marketed by the company Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) marketed by Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 marketed by Sasol, KALCOL® 6098 marketed by Kao and ACILOL® 16 marketed by Aegis Chemical.

[0098] As stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18 / 98 F and ECOROL® 18 / 98 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 18 marketed by the company BASF, KALCOL® 8098 marketed by the company Kao, ACILOL® 18 marketed by the company Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 marketed by the company Sasol and NAA® 45 marketed by the company Nihon Yushi.

[0099] As cetyl stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 68 / 50 F and ECOROL® 68 / 50 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES marketed by the company Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P marketed by the company Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN marketed by the company Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50 / 50 marketed by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro, CONOL® 30 CK marketed by the company New Japan Chemical, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 marketed by the company Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) marketed by WF company and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR marketed by Godrej Industries company.

[0100] As behenic alcohol suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use that sold under the name LANETTE® 22 marketed by the company BASF.

[0101] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0102] The quantity of non-ionic surfactant(s) of fatty alcohol type varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, said non-ionic surfactants of ester type and fatty alcohol type are used in the form of a mixture.

[0104] Among the mixtures which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Emulium Mellifera®, (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) Jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax) and under the name Acticire® MB (INCI name: Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax) by the company Gattefosse.

[0105] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixture used is the product sold by the company Gattefosse under the name Actimelli MB® (INCI name: Poly- glyceryl-6 distearate (and) Jojoba esters (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) polyglycerin-3 (and) acacia deccurens flower wax).

[0106] The emulsifying system of the invention further comprises at least one co-surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, in particular chosen from surfactants of the glutamic acid salt type and their mixtures.

[0107] Anionic surfactant of glutamic acid salt type

[0108] A composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one glutamic acid salt or in particular an acylglutamic salt (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid).

[0109] Suitable in particular for the invention are acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic acids and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0110] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention contains as anionic surfactant at least one glutamate, said glutamate having an alkyl chain from C8 to C20, and a solubilizing countercation chosen from sodium, potassium and ammonium.

[0111] Such anionic surfactants are those described in EP 2 335 681.

[0112] By way of illustration of these glutamate salts, mention may in particular be made of anionic surfactants chosen from potassium cocoyl glutamates, potassium methyl cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl caproyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl lauroyl glutamate, sodium methyl myristoyl glutamate, sodium methyl oleoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl methyl glutamate, sodium methyl stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0113] More particularly, the anionic surfactants are chosen from potassium cocoyl glutamates, potassium methyl cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl methyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0114] According to one embodiment of the invention, at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium methyl oleoyl glutamates, sodium N-myristoyl-N-methyl glutamate, sodium salt of coconut oil fatty acid methyl glutamate and sodium laurylmethyl glutamate.

[0115] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0116] Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate, notably marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, notably marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0117] As acyl glutamic acid salt, we can also cite that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0118] Mention may also be made of the mixture of acyl glutamate salts, such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

[0119] Of course, the compositions of the present invention may also comprise mixtures of anionic surfactants of glutamate type, such as the mixture of anionic surfactants of glutamate and taurate type, a mixture of glutamates, or a mixture of surfactants of glutamate and sarcosinate type.

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, more particularly that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF.

[0121] The acyl glutamic acid(s) and their salts may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.4% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The acyl glutamic acid(s) and their salts may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. UV filters

[0123] The composition according to the invention also contains one or more lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0124] The composition may also comprise at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-dispersible organic UV filters. Preferably, the filtering system will consist of organic UV filters, and preferably lipophilic organic UV filters. Lipophilic organic UV filters

[0125] The lipophilic organic filters are notably chosen from cinamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, diben- zoylmethane, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649;4,4-diarylbutadien compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.;

[0126] Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0128] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products; Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

[0129] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

[0130] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

[0131] Compounds [3.[3-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

[0132] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” by BASF,

[0133] Benzylidine camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

[0134] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

[0135] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds: Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL,

[0136] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150” by the company BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB” by the company 3V SIGMA, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

[0137] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA” by the company Symrise,

[0138] Benzalmalonate compounds: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of liquid lipophilic organic UV filters. By "free of liquid lipophilic organic UV filters" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a total quantity of liquid lipophilic organic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain liquid lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of octocrylene. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of octocrylene" means a total amount of octocrylene of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain octocrylene.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of ethylhexyl salicylate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of ethylhexyl salicylate" means an amount of ethylhexyl salicylate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain ethylhexyl salicylate.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of homosalate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of homosalate" means a total amount of homosalate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain homosalate.

[0143] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of octocrylene and / or ethylhexyl salicylate and / or homosalate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of octocrylene and / or ethylhexyl salicylate and / or homosalate" means a total amount of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains neither octocrylene nor ethylhexyl salicylate nor homosalate.

[0144] The composition comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UV filter. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, all the lipophilic organic UV filters present in the composition are solid.

[0145] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of solid lipophilic organic UV filters in the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 9% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of lipophilic organic UV filters in the composition in accordance with the invention may be between 8% and 20% by weight, preferably between 9% and 18% by weight, and even more preferably between 10% and 16% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0147] A titre d’exemples de filtres UV organiques lipophiles solides, on peut citer le Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, le Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, le 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, le Drometrizole Trisiloxane, le Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, le Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, l’Ethylhexyl Triazone, le Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, de préférence le Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, le Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, le Drometrizole Trisiloxane, le Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, l’Ethylhexyl Triazone, et encore plus préférentiellement le Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, le Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, le Drometrizole Trisiloxane, l’Ethylhexyl Triazone.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter, preferably chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter, preferably chosen from Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of solid lipophilic organic UVA filter in the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of solid lipophilic organic UVB filter in the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of solid lipophilic organic UVA filter in the composition in accordance with the invention ranges from 1.5% to 7% by weight, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the quantity of solid lipophilic organic UVB filter in the composition in accordance with the invention ranges from 1.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one mixed UV filter capable of absorbing solid lipophilic organic UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Trisiloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two mixed UV filters capable of absorbing solid lipophilic organic UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Trisiloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of mixed UV filter capable of absorbing solid organic lipophilic UVA and UVB in the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of mixed UV filter capable of absorbing solid lipophilic organic UVA and UVB rays in the composition in accordance with the invention ranges from 1.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter, preferably chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter, preferably chosen from Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone and at least one, and preferably at least two, solid lipophilic organic mixed UV filters capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Trisiloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. Water-dispersible organic UV filters

[0154] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more water-dispersible organic UV filters.

[0155] Among the water-dispersible organic filters, the following filters may be mentioned.

[0156] Benzophenone compounds: 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,

[0157] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenethyl benzotriazole) compounds: Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hi0O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hi0O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® M” by the company BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

[0158] Triazine compounds: - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,

[0159] Benzoxazole compounds: 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, CAS number 904-39-2.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one water-dispersible organic UV filter, and preferably comprises Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV filter in the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV filter in the composition in accordance with the invention ranges from 1.5% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble UV filters

[0163] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of water-soluble filters. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of water-soluble UV filters" means a quantity of water-soluble UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise water-soluble UV filters. Inorganic UV filters

[0164] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is free of inorganic filters, in particular inorganic UV filters consisting of metal oxide pigments, such as those described in Annex VI updated on 09 / 22 / 2021 of the European regulation on cosmetic products number 1223 / 2009, or such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.

[0165] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free from inorganic UV filters" means an amount of inorganic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise inorganic UV filters. Gelling agents

[0166] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling (or thickening) agent chosen from copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS.

[0167] These copolymers may in particular be crosslinked by a compound with olefinic polyunsaturation such as those chosen from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allypentaerythritol, methylene bis-acrylamide, allyl-sucrose and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylene bis-acrylamide is used, partially or totally neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine.

[0168] Preferably, said olefinically unsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of the monomer mixture.

[0169] The preferred copolymers are obtained by copolymerization, by radical route, of 15-85 mol% of acrylamide and 15-85 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular of 30-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-70 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and even better of 55-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-45 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0170] Furthermore, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid may generally be at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, by potassium hydroxide, or by a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

[0171] The gelling agent that can be used can also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane acid. sulfonic.

[0172] A crosslinked copolymer particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention is in particular available under the name Sepigel 305 sold by Seppic (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7).

[0173] Another crosslinked copolymer particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention is an acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate acid copolymer in inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80 / I-C13, notably available under the name Simulgel 600® (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by the company Seppic.

[0174] The total dry matter content of gelling agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 1.5% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] According to one embodiment, the total dry matter content of gelling agent(s) of the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fat phase

[0176] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0177] The fatty phase may consist of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it may in particular comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase further comprises the lipophilic filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0178] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, in liquid form at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, and of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0179] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0180] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours. and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0181] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen, and free of silicon atoms. A hydrocarbon oil for the purposes of the invention is therefore non-silicone. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0182] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of: (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and musk rose; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and their mixtures; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, dii-isopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as C14-C15 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0183] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, and 2-ethylphenyl benzoate. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and C12-C15 alcohol benzoate.

[0184] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil, and mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0186] According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile oils hydrocarbons having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0187] The fatty phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

[0188] Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: - a fatty acid such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; preferably, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - a wax, in particular as described below; - a solid linear ester as described below, - and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Preferably, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone oils. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of silicone oils" means a quantity of silicone oils less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise silicone oils.

[0191] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of organopolysiloxane elastomer. By "free of organopolysiloxane elastomer" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an amount of organopolysiloxane elastomer less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular at a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably at a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise organopolysiloxane elastomer. Wax(s)

[0192] As waxes of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

[0193] - camauba wax, - Candelilla wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch, - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, lanolins oxypropylenated or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, - rice bran wax, in particular that marketed under the name NC 1720 (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX) by the company CERA RICA NODA, - Ouricury wax, - Alfa wax, - cork fiber wax, - sugar cane wax, - Japanese wax, - sumac wax, - montan wax, - Orange wax, in particular that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - Laurel wax, - sunflower wax,

[0194] - mimosa wax - lemon wax, - olive wax, - berry wax, - beeswax, in particular that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher, - buckwheat wax, in particular that marketed by the company Codif, - fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, in particular the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & helianthus annus seed wax & acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl, in particular the product marketed under the name Hydracire S or Acticire® by the company Gatefossé, - and / or their mixtures.

[0195] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one wax, in particular chosen from beeswax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one wax, in particular chosen from beeswax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof.

[0196] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition contains from 1.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 2% to 3% by weight of rice bran wax (INCI: ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX) relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid linear ester

[0197] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid linear ester. For the purposes of the invention, solid linear esters have from 25 to 36 carbon atoms and melting points between 38°C and 60°C. A linear ester is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form at room temperature. The solid linear esters suitable for the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising stearyl stearate, tetradecanoic acid or tetradecyl ester (INCI name: myristyl myristate), arachidyl propionate, cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. As a stearyl stearate particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use that sold under the name LIPONATE® SS marketed by the company Lipo Chemicals.As arachidyl propionate particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use that sold under the name WAXENOL® 801 marketed by the company Alzo. As an example of a mixture of solid linear esters particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the mixture of myristile / cetyl / stearyl myristate / palmitate / stearate (INCI name: cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters), for example sold under the names CROCAMOL® MS-PA-(MH), CROCAMOL® MS-PA-(BR), CROCAMOL® MS-PA-(SG), CROCAMOL ® MS-PA-(MV), marketed by the company Croda and MIRACETI® marketed by the company Laserson. As cetyl palmitate particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use that sold under the name CUTINA® CP marketed by the company Cognis. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises tetradecanoic acid or tetradecyl ester.This solid linear ester is notably sold under the name TEGOSOFT® MM, marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of solid linear ester(s) ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, preferably from 2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0198] The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0199] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

[0200] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 30% by weight, better still at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0202] By polyol, within the meaning of the invention, is meant a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.

[0203] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0204] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions. According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0205] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol, and mixtures thereof.

[0206] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises polyglyceryl-3.

[0207] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, propane-1,3-diol, poly-glyceryl-3 and mixtures thereof.

[0208] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight and even more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, better still from 7% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of compounds consisting of a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as for example polyethylene glycols (PEG). By "free of compounds consisting of a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions”, is understood to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, an amount of compounds consisting of a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular at a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably at a content of less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise compounds consisting of a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.

[0211] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a quantity of polyethylene glycol (PEG) less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular at a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably at a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0212] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of mono-alkanols. By "free of mono-alkanols" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an amount of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound and a single hydroxyl function (OH) less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular at a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably at a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise mono-alkanols.

[0213] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in particular free of C1-C4 mono-alkanols, that is to say of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl function (OH). By "free of C1-C4 mono-alkanols" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, an amount of any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl function (OH) less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular at a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably at a content less than or equal to 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not comprise C1-C4 monoalkanols, and in particular does not contain methanol, ethanol, propanol, or isopropanol. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0214] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or several active ingredients and adjuvants, notably chosen from cosmetic active ingredients, sun filters, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc.

[0215] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0216] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight and even better still from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition

[0217] The composition used according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion called "direct" consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase. By "emulsion" is meant a kinetically stable macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising at least two phases immiscible with each other; one being the dispersing continuous phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized.

[0218] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, or a milk. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream, white or colored.

[0219] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.

[0220] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

[0221] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application.

[0222] The composition according to the invention provides long-lasting hydration, in particular hydration for a period of 12 hours or more, to the keratin material to which it is applied, in particular the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the face and / or neck and / or hands.

[0223] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of a composition according to the invention, compositions may in particular be cited whose viscosity varies from 30 to 60UD, preferably from 40 to 50UD measured according to the protocol detailed in the Materials and Methods chapter appearing below. Uses and methods

[0224] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0225] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0226] The cosmetic uses and methods considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0227] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

[0228] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

[0229] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated daily (at least once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 21 days.

[0230] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0231] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of raw material”, more precisely as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples Methods and Measurements Raw materials

[0232] In the examples below the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0233] “SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE” is marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO;

[0234] “DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE” is marketed under the name DUB DIS by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS

[0235] “C12-C15 ALKYL BENZOATE” is marketed under the name ERCAREL B 125 / 0 by the company ERCA

[0236] “ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE” is marketed under the name BERGACARE EM-14 / MB by the company BERG AND SCHMIDT

[0237] “BEHENYL ALCOHOL” is marketed under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF, or NAFOL 1822 C by the company SASOL or VEGAROL 2270 by the company WF;

[0238] “CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS” is marketed under the name SP CRODAMOL MS MBAL-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA.

[0239] “POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HE- LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEEWAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX » is a product marketed under the name ACTIMELLI® MB by the company GATTEFOSSE

[0240] “ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX” is marketed under the name NC1720 by the company CERA RICA NODA;

[0241] “BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE” is marketed under the name TINOSORB S by the company BASF;

[0242] “DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE” is marketed under the name MEXORYL XL by the company NOVEAL

[0243] “ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE” is marketed under the name UVINUL T150 by the company BASF

[0244] “BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE” is marketed under the name PARSOL 1789 by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS;

[0245] “ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRILOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80” is marketed under the name SIMULGEL 600 by the company SEPPIC; MATERIALS AND METHODS Stability measurement

[0246] The stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol: The first checks are carried out on a composition just after its preparation. The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: at room temperature or "RT" (approximately 25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C and / or at 55°C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven, for example the Bio concept brand from Firlabo. The properties are evaluated after 10 days, 1 month and / or 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0247] The properties evaluated are:

[0248] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

[0249] - the viscosity of the composition, measured according to the method described below;

[0250] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by ob Observation of the composition under an optical microscope between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;

[0251] - the color and odor of the composition; and

[0252] Phenomena of destabilization of the composition will also be observed, such as the appearance of creaming, release, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a surface film, marbling, etc.

[0253] Plus the properties of the composition after 10 days, 1 month and / or 2 months of storage remain close to those initially measured at 25°C, then the more the composition can be considered to remain stable. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without destabilization phenomena and without changes in color and odor, then it is considered to be stable. Soaping measurement protocol:

[0254] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of noting the presence of white traces or foam during the application of the composition according to the invention by a panel of expert persons. To evaluate the presence of white traces, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken using a micropipette, then deposited on half of the back of a hand. The composition is then spread with the fingers, by performing 5 rotations with the index and middle fingers. To evaluate the presence of foam, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken using a micropipette, then deposited on half of the back of a hand. The composition is then spread with the fingers, in the form of a continuous vigorous massage for 5 seconds, with the index and middle fingers.

[0255] Before each assessment, the skin of the surfaces on which the test is carried out and the fingers are washed with soap.

[0256] The existence of soaping, evidenced by the presence of white traces and / or foam upon application, is assessed on a continuous scale ranging from “weak” to “strong”. Slip measurement protocol:

[0257] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of evaluating the ease with which the fingers can perform a circular movement when applying the composition according to the invention by a panel of expert persons. To evaluate this parameter, 100 pL (2x50) of the composition to be tested are taken using a micropipette, then deposited on the inner face of the forearm. A tactile evaluation of the slip is carried out during the 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th rotation. The composition is then spread on the fingers, performing 5 rotations with the index and middle fingers.

[0258] Slip is assessed on a continuous scale from “low” to “high”. Freshness measurement protocol:

[0259] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of evaluating the ability to provide a sensation of freshness on the skin after application of the composition according to the invention by a panel of expert persons. To evaluate this parameter, 100 pL (2x50) of the composition to be tested are taken using a micropipette, then placed on the cheek: the sensation of freshness is evaluated during 8.5 rotations carried out with the fingers on the cheek.

[0260] Freshness is rated on a continuous scale from “low” to “high.” Viscosity measurement protocol:

[0261] For viscosity measurement, a Rhéomat 100 PLUS viscometer is used with a measuring system comprising a type 4 spindle plus its type 4 cup and a thermostatically controlled bath. The operating procedure is as follows:

[0262] Install spindle 4 in the viscometer and make the blank. Fill cup 4 with cream and position it in the thermostatic bath, immerse spindle 4 in cup 4 and wait for it to reach a temperature of 25°C. Start the measurement when spindle 4 is at the correct temperature and take the measurement after 10 minutes. Example 1: Preparation of a composition

[0263] A composition according to the invention is prepared according to the protocol described below with the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities are given in table 2. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation of a composition according to the invention:

[0264] The raw materials of phase A (lipophilic UV filters, alcohols, fatty acids, surfactants, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, rice bran wax, solid linear ester, and hydrophobic preservatives) are added to the main tank and heated between 65 and 85 °C until the phase is completely homogenized. The raw materials of phase B (water, glycols, hydrophilic active ingredients, sequestering agent) are heated between 50 and 70 °C until the phase is completely homogenized. Phase B is then added to phase A with stirring. The heating is stopped and then phase C containing the thickener is added successively, then water at room temperature and finally phase D containing the gelling agent, still with stirring, until a thick, smooth and shiny formula is obtained.

[0265] [Tables 1] Phase Composés A ORYZA SALIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX 2 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.6 DIISOPROP YL : SEB AGATE 6,5 O1.2-C15 ALKYL BENZOATE 3T ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 6,0 BEHENYL ALCOBOL 1,7 CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS 2.0 POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JO JOB A ESTERS (and) HELLANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNELOWER) SEED WAX (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEEWAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DÈCURRENS ELOWER WAX 5,5 BIS-ETBYLBEXYLQXYPHENOL LŒTHQXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 3,0 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILÛXANE 3.0 ETHYLBEXYL TRIAZONE 3,0 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 2.0 C-onservatems O B Eau QS Actifs soin 4d Séquestrant 0,3 Glycok 15,6 0 1,0 D ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRJtOYtDIKŒTHYLTAURÀTE COPOL YMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POL YSORBATE ' 80 z.., ?

[0266] Exemple 2 : Evaluation de la composition selon l’invention

[0267] La composition selon l’invention a été préparée selon l’exemple 1.

[0268] This composition was then tested according to the protocol previously described above in the “Methods and measurements” section.

[0269] The composition according to the invention is stable over time, and has a viscosity, measured according to the method described above, of between 40UD (M4) and 50UD (M4).

[0270] The SPF of the composition is evaluated, according to the method described above, at 31.5.

[0271] The composition according to the invention was also tested on a consumer panel consisting of 16 women according to the protocols described above. The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention has the following advantages:

[0272] - a satisfactory appearance, a texture easy to pick up, apply and spread;

[0273] - When applied, the composition does not exhibit any soapiness.

[0274] - Upon application, the composition exhibits satisfactory slip. The character slip of this composition is retained over time during application, although the composition is free of silicone oils and organopolysiloxane elastomer;

[0275] - When applied, the composition leaves a feeling of freshness, although the composition is free of mono-alcohols.]

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising - at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and at least one polyglycerol diester; - at least one non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type comprising at least one linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms; - at least one anionic surfactant of glutamic acid salt type; - at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and - at least one copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said ester-type nonionic surfactant(s) comprise: i) at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A): R>-C(O)-O-R2 (A): in which: R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C[8 to C44 fatty chain, at least R1 or R2 is unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated; ii) at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol of formula (B): R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B): in which: n = 2 to 6 R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a linear or branched C18 to C44 saturated fatty chain.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type comprise POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said non-ionic fatty alcohol surfactant(s) is C16 to C22 and comprises at least cetyl alcohol, and preferably at least cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s) of fatty alcohol type relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which said non-ionic surfactants of ester type and fatty alcohol type are used in the form of a mixture.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one wax, in particular chosen from beeswax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an active material (AM) content of said glutamic acid salt type anionic surfactant greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.4% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one solid lipophilic organic UVA filter, preferably chosen from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and at least one solid lipophilic organic UVB filter, preferably chosen from Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, and optionally further comprising at least one solid lipophilic organic mixed UV filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays, preferably chosen from Drometrizole Trisiloxane and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free from silicone oils and / or organopolysiloxane elastomer and / or mono-alkanols and / or polyethylene glycol (PEG) and / or liquid lipophilic organic UV filters, preferably free from octocrylene and / or ethylhexylsalicylate and / or homosalate.