Protective complex of a red pigment and cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising a red pigment and such a protective complex of said pigment
A protective complex of Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, and vitamin B12 stabilizes astaxanthin in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, addressing color instability and maintaining transparency.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024001373
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-02-13
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-15
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic and dermatological compositions incorporating red pigments, particularly astaxanthin, are unstable under light and heat, leading to color fading and loss of transparency in liquid or semi-liquid forms like serums and gels, which concerns consumers and affects the perceived effectiveness of the products.
A protective complex comprising Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate (Tinogard Q), benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (Tinogard TL), and vitamin B12 is combined to stabilize the red color of astaxanthin, maintaining color intensity and transparency over time.
The combination effectively maintains the red color and transparency of cosmetic and dermatological compositions exposed to light and heat for extended periods, ensuring the longevity and efficacy of the products.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Protective complex of a red pigment and cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising a red pigment and such a protective complex of said pigment
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical compositions.
[0002] More particularly, the present invention will find an application in the field of cosmetic or dermatological compositions in liquid or wet semi-liquid galenic form, such as cream, gel, serum, lotion, balm, emulsion or mousse.
[0003] The present invention will find a particularly interesting application in cosmetic or dermatological compositions incorporating a red-colored pigment, and in particular in cosmetic or dermatological compositions also having a translucent or transparent appearance, such as a serum or a gel.
[0004] An even more preferential application of the present invention will concern cosmetic or dermatological compositions incorporating, as pigment providing a red coloring, antioxidant molecules belonging to the carotenoid family, for example astaxanthin.
[0005] Indeed, the main objective of the present invention is to allow conservation of the color of a cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition incorporating a pigment giving it a red, or orange-red coloring, in particular a pigment from the carotenoid family, over a long period, in particular with regard to serums and gels, while preserving the translucent or transparent appearance of this type of liquid or semi-liquid composition.
[0006] Prior to the development of the present invention, intensive research was carried out to find solutions for maintaining, over time, the red color of a cosmetic or dermatological product or composition, in particular when said product or composition is exposed to light and / or heat.
[0007] At the same time, this research also aimed to ensure that the solution identified for preserving the color also allows for the preservation of the translucent or transparent appearance of the product or cosmetic or dermatological composition when it is a serum or a gel.
[0008] Generally, in the cosmetic or dermatological field, the color red is rarely used, particularly when the cosmetic product is in liquid or semi-liquid form, namely a serum, a cream, a gel, etc.
[0009] Indeed, the red color in cosmetic or dermatological products is particularly unstable, and tends to deteriorate over time, to lighten to become pink, for example.
[0010] However, this instability of the red color is worrying for consumers who are sensitive to changes, particularly in color, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions that they use, particularly in cases where this would suggest a deterioration in the effectiveness of the active ingredients that they contain.
[0011] In cosmetic or dermatological compositions or products, it is particularly known to use astaxanthin, or dihydroxy-3,3' dioxo-4,4' [3-carotene, to obtain a red color.
[0012] Astaxanthin is a fat-soluble pigment belonging to the carotenoid family and the larger group of chemical compounds known as terpenes.
[0013] Astaxanthin with the crude formula C40H52O4 contains hydroxyl and ketone functional groups, as well as an extended chain with alternating single and double bonds in the center of the compound, responsible for the color of this molecule.
[0014] The chain of conjugated double bonds in astaxanthin is also responsible for the molecule's particularly powerful antioxidant properties, which, thanks to its unique molecular structure, can extend across the lipid bilayer of the cell membrane and act as a scavenger of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the outer and inner layers of the cell membrane.
[0015] In comparison, other molecules with antioxidant properties, such as vitamin E and [3-carotene, act exclusively on the internal side of the membrane, or even at the level of the external layer of the latter in the case of vitamin C.
[0016] Another advantage of astaxanthin is that, unlike some other members of the carotenoid family, it is not converted into vitamin A, the accumulation of which in excess can be toxic.
[0017] In addition, astaxanthin exhibits interesting pharmacological effects, including anticancer, antidiabetic, anti-inflammatory, immune system stimulation, as well as protective effects at the neurological, cardiovascular, ocular, and dermatological levels.
[0018] Also, the present invention can also be applied to a pharmaceutical composition incorporating, for example, astaxanthin giving it a red coloring.
[0019] Astaxanthin can have a synthetic origin but it is also produced naturally by microalgae belonging to the species Haematococcus pluvialis and by the yeast Xanthophyllomyces dendrorhous, or even by the species of Pacific krill (Euphausia pacifica) or Antarctic krill (Euphausia superba) or shrimp, especially Arctic shrimp (Pandalus borealis).
[0020] Therefore, astaxanthin confers the pink color that can be observed in many aquatic species, including salmonids and crustaceans, but also in non-aquatic species such as flamingos, which consume the organisms synthesizing astaxanthin.
[0021] The cosmetics industry, in particular, and consumers are showing a growing interest in the use of molecules of natural and biosourced origin and astaxanthin, due to its particularly powerful antioxidant properties, is therefore an extremely interesting candidate in this field.
[0022] However, astaxanthin has the disadvantage of being structurally unstable and is known to be decomposed under the influence of heat, light, and oxygen.
[0023] It is, therefore, difficult to incorporate in a stable manner into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, in particular into serums, creams and gels, which must be stored for a certain time.
[0024] It is known, in the state of the art, in particular in the French patent application published under number FR 3 107 455, a cosmetic composition comprising, at least, astaxanthin, a tocopherol, at least one derivative of carbomer, at least one ester of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid and at least one fatty substance.
[0025] In the cosmetic composition described in this application FR 3 107 455, tocopherol, the camosic acid derivative, which is more specifically chosen from camosic acid and camosol, and the ester of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid are used to attempt to stabilize the color conferred by astaxanthin to said cosmetic composition.
[0026] However, upon reading the test results included in the description of this prior art document, it appears that there is no stability over a long period, particularly on liquid or semi-liquid formulations, such as serums, creams or gels.
[0027] Consequently, the present invention is intended to be able to remedy, at least in part, the drawbacks of the compositions of the state of the art by proposing to associate with a red-colored pigment, in particular astaxanthin, in a cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, a protective or stabilizing complex of this pigment, to ensure optimal and lasting conservation of the intensity of the color when the composition is exposed to light and / or heat, while preserving, where appropriate, the translucent appearance. or transparent of the composition when it consists of a gel or a serum, a solution or a suspension.
[0028] In an inventive approach, it was imagined to associate, within a pigment protective complex, three compounds, namely:
[0029] - a first compound corresponding to the INCI designation (Nomenclature International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients or "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients" in English) Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard Q (Tinogard is a registered trademark);
[0030] - a second compound corresponding to the INCI designation benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, and marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard TL and
[0031] - a third compound corresponding to vitamin B12 (also known as name of cyanocobalamin).
[0032] It has been demonstrated by the inventors that the combination of these three compounds within a pigment-protecting complex makes it possible, in particular in a cosmetic or dermatological composition or product comprising a red pigment, in particular from the carotenoid family, consisting in particular of astaxanthin, to ensure the stability of the color, to light and heat, over a relatively long period.
[0033] Furthermore, when the composition is originally transparent or translucent, this appearance is also preserved when the protective complex is integrated within said composition.
[0034] To this end, the invention relates to a protective complex of a red-colored pigment to ensure the stability, over time, of the intensity of the red color of said pigment, in particular in a cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, said protective complex comprising at least, in association:
[0035] - a first compound corresponding to the INCI designation Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, also known as Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0036] - a second compound corresponding to the INCI designation benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, also known as Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) and
[0037] - a third compound corresponding to vitamin B12.
[0038] Preferably, said protective complex comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the protective complex:
[0039] - Between 0.6 and 94%, advantageously between 40 and 49%, by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0040] - Between 0.6 and 94%, advantageously between 40 and 49%, by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0041] - Between 2 and 96%, advantageously between 2 and 20%, by mass of vitamin B12.
[0042] The invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising, in a cosmetically or dermatologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, at least:
[0043] - The protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment, such as defined above, and comprising at least Tinogard Q, Tinogard TL and vitamin B12;
[0044] - A red or red-orange colored pigment.
[0045] According to particular embodiments:
[0046] - the composition comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said composition, between 0.001 and 0.1% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark); between 0.001 and 0.1% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) and between 0.005 and 0.05% by mass of vitamin B12.
[0047] - the composition comprises 0.1% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark), 0.1% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) and 0.01% by mass of vitamin B12.
[0048] - said red or orange-red pigment is a pigment from the family of carotenoids, and preferably consists of astaxanthin.
[0049] - the proportion of astaxanthin within said composition is between 0.0001 and 1.0% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition, preferably equal to 0.03%.
[0050] - the cosmetic or pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprises in besides a kappa-elastin compound.
[0051] - the composition is liquid or semi-liquid, wet, and consists of a serum or a gel.
[0052] - the composition is used in the fight against physiological aging and actinic.
[0053] The present invention also relates to the use of a protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment comprising in association at least Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate (Tinogard Q), benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, (Tinogard TL) and vitamin B12 to ensure the stability, over time, of the intensity of the red color of said pigment, preferably astaxanthin, in a cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition.
[0054] Other aims and advantages of the present invention will appear during the description which follows relating to embodiments which are given only as indicative and non-limiting examples.
[0055] Understanding of this description will be facilitated by referring to the attached drawings in which:
[0056] [Fig. 1] is a photograph of four red-colored liquid formulations, the color being imparted by the presence of astaxanthin, with various adjuvants, namely a formulation incorporating vitamin B12, a formulation incorporating vitamin B12 and Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark), a formulation incorporating vitamin B12 and Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark), and a formulation incorporating both vitamin B12 and the compounds Tinogard Q and Tinogard TL, the combination of these three constituents forming the red pigment protective complex according to the invention, after exposure of the formulations after six months to daylight and room temperature, with an indication of the color of each of said compositions, obtained by visual estimation.
[0057] In the remainder of the description, the term "cosmetic composition" means a composition comprising a plurality of ingredients or constituents whose combination has a cosmetic objective, in other words an aesthetic objective, said composition being intended to be applied as such to superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the external organs and the external mucous membranes. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly, to clean these parts, to protect them, to beautify them (make-up, etc.), to modify their appearance, to perfume them or to correct their odor, or to keep them in good condition.
[0058] In the present application, the term "dermatological composition" means any composition for topical application comprising a plurality of ingredients or constituents whose combination has a dermatological purpose, that is to say a composition which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for the treatment and / or prevention of pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages, nails, hair, body hair.
[0059] By “cosmetically acceptable” or “dermatologically acceptable” vehicle, medium or component is meant one or more physiologically suitable ingredients compatible with topical application of a cosmetic or dermatological composition incorporating such a vehicle, medium or component. The latter is suitable for use in contact with human or animal tissues or human and animal skin cells, in particular cells of the skin, lips, nails, mucous membranes, scalp, eyelashes and eyebrows, without toxicity, irritation, allergic response, and presenting a pleasant color, texture and smell without generating discomfort.
[0060] Also, in the present application, the term "pharmaceutical composition" means a pharmaceutical composition, in particular in liquid form, in particular in the form of a solution or suspension, comprising at least one active ingredient for therapeutic purposes and a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.
[0061] The present invention then relates, in the field of cosmetics and / or dermatology, or even in the pharmaceutical field, and according to a first aspect of said invention, to a protective complex of a red, or orange-red, pigment, to ensure the stability, over time, of the intensity of the red color of said pigment.
[0062] Such a protective complex is more particularly intended to be integrated into a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
[0063] Said complex can also be used in a pharmaceutical composition.
[0064] Said protective complex of the red or red colored pigment is particular in that it comprises at least, in association:
[0065] - a first compound corresponding to the INCI designation (Nomenclature International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients or "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients" in English) Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate. This compound is also known as Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0066] - a second compound corresponding to the INCI designation benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol. This compound is also known as Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) and,
[0067] - a third compound corresponding to vitamin B12: this compound is also known as cyanocobalamin.
[0068] The inventors were in fact able to demonstrate, through tests, the methods and results of which will be detailed below, that the combination of these three compounds allows a synergy of action of said compounds for optimal and lasting maintenance of the red color of a composition over time.
[0069] In particular, such a synergy of action could be demonstrated on a particular red-colored pigment, belonging to the carotenoid family, astaxanthin, whose powerful properties, particularly antioxidant properties, were recalled above.
[0070] Most preferably, said protective complex according to the present invention comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the protective complex:
[0071] - Between 0.6 and 94% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0072] - Between 0.6 and 94% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0073] - Between 2 and 96% in mass of vitamin B12.
[0074] Even more advantageously, the protective complex of the red color pigment according to the present invention comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the protective complex:
[0075] - Between 40 and 49% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0076] - Between 40 and 49% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0077] - Between 2 and 20% by mass of vitamin B12.
[0078] In a very preferred embodiment, said protective complex comprises a proportion of the order of, or equal to, 47.6% by mass of Tinogard Q, relative to the total mass of said complex, a proportion of the order of, or equal to, 47.6% by mass of Tinogard TL, and a proportion of the order of, or equal to, 4.8% by mass of vitamin B12.
[0079] According to a second aspect of the present invention, the latter also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least:
[0080] - The protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment such as previously defined, i.e. comprising at least Tinogard Q, Tinogard TL and vitamin B12;
[0081] - A red or red-orange colored pigment.
[0082] Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition in accordance with the present invention comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said composition:
[0083] - Between 0.001 and 0.1% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a brand filed);
[0084] - Between 0.001 and 0.1% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a brand filed);
[0085] - Between 0.005 and 0.05% by mass of vitamin B12.
[0086] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said composition:
[0087] - 0.1% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0088] - 0.1% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark);
[0089] - 0.01% by mass of vitamin B12.
[0090] The composition according to the invention may also consist of a pharmaceutical composition incorporating the various aforementioned constituents, in the proportions indicated above, in a pharmaceutically acceptable medium.
[0091] Advantageously, the pigment which is incorporated into the color composition to give it its red or orange-red color is a pigment belonging to the carotenoid family and consists, in particular, of astaxanthin.
[0092] However, such an embodiment should not be understood as being limiting, and the pigment incorporated into the composition to give it its red color may consist of a molecule belonging to the family of terpenes in general, more particularly to the group of carotenoids, and in particular the subfamily of xanthophylls in general, belonging to the group of carotenoids.
[0093] In the embodiment of the composition in which said pigment consists of astaxanthin, the proportion of the latter within said composition is between 0.0001 and 1.0% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.
[0094] Most preferably, the proportion of astaxanthin within said composition is equal to 0.03% by mass.
[0095] Such proportions are optimal in order to bring the red color to a composition.
[0096] The astaxanthin pigment may preferably have a natural origin, or may be obtained by chemical synthesis.
[0097] Thus, when astaxanthin is of natural origin, it can be produced by culturing organisms that naturally produce this pigment, such as the yeast Xanthophyllomyces dendrorhous or the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis.
[0098] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is particularly interesting for use in combating physiological aging of the skin and / or actinic aging of the skin due to exposure to the sun.
[0099] The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention is thus, in a particularly advantageous manner, capable of promoting the repair and / or regeneration of dermal tissue, and limiting the appearance of wrinkles, due to the antioxidant action and, consequently, protective action against skin aging, of astaxanthin.
[0100] This fight against physiological or actinic aging of the skin by means of the composition of the invention can be reinforced by the presence, in a particularly advantageous manner, of other active molecules within said composition, in particular kappa-elastin.
[0101] Indeed, the kappa-elastin molecule is a soluble elastin, resulting from the partial hydrolysis of native elastin, which has the capacity to penetrate deep into the tissues, in particular the layers of the skin, to restore their elasticity.
[0102] This molecule helps improve hydration and elasticity, while having a beneficial effect on reducing wrinkles.
[0103] In the case where the composition of the invention incorporates kappa-elastic, the latter is present within said composition in a proportion approximately equal to, or equal to, 0.1% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.
[0104] The composition of the invention can advantageously be liquid or semi-liquid, wet, and then present in the form of a serum or a gel, transparent or translucent and red in color thanks to the presence of astaxanthin.
[0105] However, such an embodiment should not be understood as being limiting, and the composition may also be in the form of a cream, a milk, an oil, a lotion, a balm, a mousse, etc., of red color.
[0106] The interest of the association of the three constituents within the pigment protective complex is now illustrated in more detail by the detailed example below, which is not limiting of the present invention.
[0107] Example: Effect of the combination of vitamin B12, Tinogard Q and Tinogard TL on the color stability of a serum / gel containing astaxanthin
[0108] The control serum / gel formula corresponds to a gel containing astaxanthin (0.03%) and kappa elastin (0.1%), without the pigment protective complex of the invention consisting of vitamin B12, Tinogard Q and Tinogard L.
[0109] Astaxanthin is mixed with gel at a concentration of 0.03% of the total mass for 25 min at 30-35 °C until a clear mixture (corresponding to a serum) of uniform red-orange color is obtained.
[0110] Different formulas in the form of gel serum were prepared, each with one or more adjuvants which were added (in addition to the astaxanthin and kappa elastin found in the control, and in the same proportions as in the control) according to the same method, the proportions (in % by mass relative to the total mass of the formulation) of each of these adjuvants also being specified below:
[0111] - Vitamin E (Tocopherol): 0.3%
[0112] - Ascorbic acid: 0.3%
[0113] - Parsol Guard: 0.5% (Parsol is a registered trademark)
[0114] - Vitamin B12: 0.01%
[0115] - Tinogard Q: 0.1% and vitamin B12: 0.01%
[0116] - Tinogard TL: 0.01% and vitamin B12: 0.01%
[0117] - Tinogard Q: 0.1% and Tinogard TL: 0.1% and vitamin B12: 0.01%.
[0118] Each of the formulations thus obtained is colored red-orange at the start of the experiment (at time T0), a color linked to the presence of astaxanthin at 0.03% by mass.
[0119] On each of these formulations, a color stability test was carried out.
[0120] For this purpose, the formulations are monitored over time for color retention. daylight and heat (42°C and 50°C).
[0121] The analysis is done visually under four conditions:
[0122] -Ambient temperature (AT) in the dark,
[0123] -TA in daylight,
[0124] - Darkness at 42°C in a thermo-controlled oven,
[0125] - Darkness at 50°C in a thermo-controlled oven.
[0126] The results of the red color stability test over time are summarized in Table 1 below. Ôtsscnrité TA light atTA T^sociitè 42¾ SW? Tü Witness transparent red-orange red-orange TÛ MtaoSne £ {TsccphéRin fransîucitfe rot^é^angê red-orange TC Acid asccdsinue- translucent fiery-orange red-orange euqo-grande red-orange TC Parsoi Guard translucent red-orange red-orange red-orange TC B12 transparent red red-orange red-orange TC Et2+TL translucent red-orange red-orange: TC 8124 Q transparent red-Orange red-orange: TC 812 * Q * TL translucent red orange red-orange red-orange 2 words Transparent witness mcotore orancte clair îaune-ora^è 2 reisis Vitamne E fTccatshetwi; translucent roi^orange irtcotere orange clair jagne-orange 2 mess Acid asestfeisue translucent srangê-tsrun orange-tertm orange-brown orangeédïrun 2 mu® Parsol Guard translucent .red-orange: clear orange, light yellow-orange 2 months 812 transparent red-orange red-orange: clear red-orange red-orange: clear red-orange red-orange 2 months E12+ TL translucent red-orange red-orange red-orange red-orange 2 months B12+ Q transparent red-orange red-orange red-orange 2 months 812+ Q + TL transparent red-orange red-orange 3 months 812 transparent red-orange: pink orange pink orange 3 months 812+ TL translucent red-orange pink orange pink orange 3 months B12+ Q transparent red-orange red orange red gold angel red orange 3 words. B12 + Q+TL translucent fowe-oransê S month 812 transparent rouçÆssranqe orange pink tVot'? C rtscis E12+ TL translucent rOUÇ^grgnqé pink-orange pale pink: Mîr? sé?e*T?æné SmtBS 812+ Q transparent rcug^grgnqe Grarrgé pâ?® red orange jVoi-? o'é^.îTîJir^ 6 words 812+ Q + TL tnànsiucide orange rawge^rangé cjéfernsùTé .
[0128] Table 1: Visual evaluation of the color resistance of the formulations to light and heat (B 12: vitamin B12; Q: Tinogard Q; TL; Tinogard TL, Control: gel-serum containing astaxanthin and kappa elastin).
[0129] The results obtained and shown in detail in Table 1 above, show that, after two months of exposure to daylight and at room temperature, the control became colorless under the effect of light. In addition, the control turned yellow-orange under the effect of heat.
[0130] The evolution of the control clearly shows an instability of the astaxanthin pigment over time when it is exposed to light and / or heat.
[0131] The addition of certain adjuvants, such as Tocopherol or Parsol Guard (Parsol is a registered trademark), does not allow the color to be maintained over time, which lightens to colorless (tocopherol) or light orange-red when the formulation is exposed to light at room temperature.
[0132] When the formulation contains either of these adjuvants, Tocopherol or Parsol Guard (Parsol is a registered trademark), it also lightens to become light orange, or orange-yellow, depending on whether the formulation is placed in the dark at 42°C or 50°C.
[0133] The formulation containing ascorbic acid turns orange-brown after only two months of incubation both in the dark in the oven and in the light at room temperature.
[0134] These compounds therefore do not provide effective protection of the pigment over time.
[0135] On the other hand, the results clearly show that the presence, in association, of vitamin B12, Tinogard TL and Tinogard Q makes it possible to maintain the red-orange color for up to 3 months not only in daylight but also in heat at 42-50 °C.
[0136] Colour retention is even observed for up to six months at 42°C. After 6 months, the colour stabilisation effect in daylight is also very significant, compared with the other adjuvants tested, although less significant than in heat. The results obtained after exposing the formulations for six months at room temperature to daylight are illustrated in the attached [Fig.l].
[0137] It should also be noted that the color fastness of the formulation containing the protective complex is better after three months in comparison with a formulation containing vitamin B12 and Tinogard TL and after six months in comparison with a formulation containing vitamin B12 and Tinogard Q.
[0138] Consequently, these results clearly demonstrate that the combination of these three compounds allows a synergy of action of said compounds to maintain the red color of a cosmetic or dermatological composition over time.
[0139] Furthermore, the results presented in the table also show that the appearance of a formulation containing the three compounds remains translucent over time.
[0140] In conclusion, the association of at least three compounds, Tinogard Q (Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate) and Tinogard TL (benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol) and vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin) in a formulation, in particular liquid or semi-liquid, wet, containing astaxanthin makes it possible to ensure the stability of the red color both to light and to heat over a long period.
Claims
Claims
1. Protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment to ensure the stability, over time, of the intensity of the red color of said pigment, said protective complex being characterized in that it comprises at least, in association: - a first compound corresponding to the INCI designation Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, also known under the name Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark); - a second compound corresponding to the INCI designation benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, also known under the name Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) and - a third compound corresponding to vitamin B12.
2. Protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment according to claim 1 characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the protective complex: - Between 0.6 and 94% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - Between 0.6 and 94% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - Between 2 and 96% by mass of vitamin B12.
3. Protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the protective complex: - Between 40 and 49% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - Between 40 and 49% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - Between 2 and 20% by mass of vitamin B12.
4. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically or dermatologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, at least: - The protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and comprising at least Tinogard Q, Tinogard TL and vitamin B12; - A red or orange-red pigment.
5. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 4 characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said composition: - Between 0.001 and 0.1% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - Between 0.001 and 0.1% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - Between 0.005 and 0.05% by mass of vitamin B12.
6. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 5 characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by mass relative to the total mass of said composition: - 0.1% by mass of Tinogard Q (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - 0.1% by mass of Tinogard TL (Tinogard being a registered trademark) - 0.01% by mass of vitamin B12.
7. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that said red or orange-red pigment is a pigment from the carotenoid family.
8. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that said red or orange-red pigment consists of astaxanthin.
9. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 8 characterized in that the proportion of astaxanthin within said composition is between 0.0001 and 1.0% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.
10. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 9 characterized in that the proportion of astaxanthin within said composition is equal to 0.03% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.
11. Cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 4 to 10, characterized in that it also comprises a kappa-elastin compound.
12. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 4 to 11, characterized in that said composition is liquid or semi-liquid, wet, and that it consists of a serum or a gel.
13. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 4 to 12 for use in combating physiological and actinic aging.
14. Use of a protective complex of a red or orange-red pigment comprising in association at least Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate (Tinogard Q), benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, (Tinogard TL) and vitamin B12 to ensure the stability, over time, of the intensity of the red color of said pigment, preferably astaxanthin, in a cosmetic or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING ASTAXANTHIN AND A MIXTURE OF ANTIOXIDANTS
FR3107455A1
Perfumed composition comprising at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound, at least one organic UV filter and at least one perfumed substance
FR3138033A1