Bioactive nut peptides and compositions for topical skin treatment

Abstract

Bioactive Walnut Peptides and Compositions for Topical Skin Treatment: Bioactive walnut peptides and their use for topical application to the skin are described. Bioactive walnut peptides, which can be incorporated into pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions, are useful for treating, preventing, and improving skin damage and for combating or preventing physiological changes associated with skin aging. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Bioactive walnut peptides and compositions for topical skin treatment. SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] This disclosure relates to bioactive walnut peptides and the use of walnut peptides for topical application to the skin. Walnut peptides and compositions containing them are useful for improving skin appearance, preventing or reversing skin aging, and treating various skin conditions associated with aging. CONTEXT

[0002] The skin is a unique and complex organ that covers the entire body. It is essential for protecting the body from external threats, controlling body temperature, and preventing moisture loss. It also serves as a sensory organ and produces vitamin D. There are different types of skin in different parts of the body. For example, facial skin is different from scalp skin, and even the skin on the palm of the hand is different from the skin on the back of the hand.

[0003] The skin constitutes the integumentary system, which includes three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and the first line of defense against external threats such as microbes. The human epidermis is primarily composed of keratinocytes containing other cell types, including melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its specific function, to the essential role played by the skin. Melanocytes give the skin its characteristic color and tone. The epidermis is essentially impermeable to water and therefore helps maintain hydration and prevents the body from absorbing water during bathing. Unlike other cells, epidermal cells have a unique ability to regenerate and can therefore heal after being injured.

[0004] The intermediate layer of skin that lies just beneath the epidermis is the dermis, which comprises connective tissue, collagen, elastin, hair follicles, lymph nodes, and sweat glands. The dermis provides a solid support for the epidermis. It is also its nourishing layer. The dermis mainly consists of fibroblasts, but leukocytes, mast cells, and tissue macrophages are also present. The dermis also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers. The acellular portion (i.e., the area between the cells) of the dermis is called the extracellular matrix. The skin's extracellular matrix is ​​composed of various extracellular components, including proteins, in particular collagen fibers and elastin. Other components of the skin's extracellular matrix include glycosaminoglycans (e.g., hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, heparan sulfate, etc.), proteoglycans (e.g., fibromodulin, decorin, biglycan, perlecan, heparan sulfate proteoglycan 2, agrin, versican, agrecan, lumican, type IX collagen, type XII collagen, type XIV collagen, testican 1, testican 2, etc.) and various glycoproteins (e.g., fibrillin 1, thrombospondin-1 and -2, tenascin-C and -X, osteopontin, fibronectin, laminin-5 and -6, vitronectin, etc.). These extracellular components are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts, which make them the main constituent of the structural assembly of the dermis.

[0005] The extracellular matrix is ​​a highly heterogeneous amalgam of morphologically diverse architectural entities. It organizes and confers structural integrity to individual tissues, in addition to modulating cell behavior by interacting with cell surface receptors and soluble growth factors. Dysfunctions and alterations in extracellular matrix components can therefore interfere with both tissue integrity and cell performance. Dysfunctions and alterations in extracellular matrix components of human skin and mucous membranes can lead to skin aging, skin atrophy, skin damage, skin wounds, and other problems.

[0006] The hypodermis is the deepest layer of the skin and is composed mainly of adipose and connective tissue. It connects the skin to the underlying fascia (tissue) of the bones and muscles. The hypodermis is not always classified as an official layer of the skin, but it nevertheless performs important functions such as energy storage, body insulation, and prevention of skin sagging. The hypodermis contains fat storage cells that function as energy reservoirs and act as a cushion against impacts.

[0007] Over time, skin ages, which can lead to wrinkles, age spots, and a loss of elasticity and volume. Skin aging includes both chronological aging (endogenous aging), which is natural aging that occurs over time due to natural biological processes, and degenerative aging due to external influences such as exposure to harmful sunlight, pollution, lack of hydration, etc. Ultraviolet rays such as UVB have a wavelength in the range of 280 nm to 320 nm and are known to cause skin damage and accelerate aging. UVB rays stimulate reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals in skin cells, which which accelerates the intracellular signaling system and induces oxidative stress on biomolecules such as DNA, proteins, and lipids. An increase in oxidative stress in skin cells can cause the stimulation of keratinocytes in the epidermis or fibroblasts in the dermis, and through a series of intracellular signal transductions, the expression of genes such as matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), a collagen-degrading enzyme, can be increased.

[0008] Numerous treatments are available for treating the skin that promote anti-aging benefits. For example, the importance of collagen in the aging process has led to the development of many topical products containing collagen. Other components such as retinoic acid, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid are used in topical formulations to stimulate collagen synthesis. Certain cosmetic procedures, such as laser skin resurfacing, are used to reduce facial wrinkles and skin irregularities. The topical administration of proteins known to inhibit one or more signaling pathways that exhibit altered activity after UV exposure has been explored. However, there are difficulties associated with the use of whole proteins, which cannot be efficiently delivered through the epidermis.Furthermore, large proteins can be unstable, difficult to formulate, and ineffective topically. Despite the number of products and treatments available, none of them adequately address the skin's intrinsic repair and renewal mechanisms. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY

[0009] This disclosure relates to bioactive walnut peptides and the use of walnut peptides for topical application to the skin. Bioactive walnut peptides, which can be incorporated into a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition, treat and prevent conditions that negatively impact skin aging. Furthermore, topical application of bioactive walnut peptides to the skin remarkably reduces age-related inflammation, increases epidermal growth factor (EGF), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), and transforming growth factor alpha (TGFa), promotes epidermal stem cell expression, induces autophagy, and improves mitochondrial function. It has been remarkably observed that bioactive walnut peptides influence multiple physiological pathways beneficial to the skin.Due to their numerous benefits, bioactive nut peptides and the pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions containing them are particularly suitable for the prevention and treatment of skin aging and for improving or reversing the effects of skin aging.

[0010] Walnuts are one of the most widespread and oldest nuts in the world. They have high nutritional value and are rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and other unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, and proteins. Walnuts are commonly used to make walnut oil because they have a high lipid content. The residue remaining after lipid extraction is considered a by-product, although it contains nut proteins and other useful components. Walnut protein is mainly composed of albumin, globulin, gliadin, and glutenin.

[0011] Bioactive nut peptides can be derived from nut proteins or can be synthesized. For example, nut peptides are obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, fermentation hydrolysis, or chemical hydrolysis of nut proteins or produced synthetically, for example, by solid-phase synthesis. Bioactive peptides that are particularly useful according to the present disclosure typically have a molecular weight of less than 6,000 Da and often less than 1,000 Da. These nut peptides may have from 2 to 50 amino acid residues, but typically have from 2 or 3 amino acid residues to about 20 amino acid residues.

[0012] Preferably, bioactive nut peptides have a minimum of 2 or 3 amino acid residues up to about 20 amino acid residues and confer a positive physiological or dermatological effect on skin cells. Bioactive peptides include amino acids joined by covalent bonds, also referred to as amide or peptide bonds, while proteins are polypeptides of higher molecular weight (MW), i.e., having more than 50 amino acid residues. Bioactive nut peptides generally exhibit hormonal or drug-like activities and are classified according to their mode of action. Many bioactive peptides share certain structural characteristics, for example, an amino acid residue length of 2 to 20 amino acids.

[0013] The useful bioactive nut peptides described in this disclosure often include one or more amino acid residues selected from leucine, proline, or combinations thereof. In other embodiments, the nut peptides include three or more amino acid residues selected from leucine, proline, or combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of amino acid residues within nut peptides that include leucine and proline include Leu-Pro-Leu (LPP), Leu-Leu-Pro, Pro-Pro-Leu (PPL), and Pro-Leu-Pro (PLP). Other non-limiting examples of amino acid sequences that may be included in bioactive nut peptides include Thr-Trp-Leu-Pro-Leu-Pro-Arg (TWLPLPR), Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys (YVLLPSPK), Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr (KVPPLLY), and their combinations.

[0014] In various embodiments, one or more of the following nut peptides are preferred:

[0015] Peptide I Thr-Trp-Leu-Pro-Leu-Pro-Arg (TWLPLPR),

[0016] Peptide II Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys (YVLLPSPK), and / or

[0017] Peptide III Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr (KVPPLLY).

[0018] As already mentioned, bioactive nut peptides are particularly useful for topical application to the skin. Accordingly, this disclosure relates to the use of walnut peptides in skin treatment processes. In various embodiments, one or more walnut peptides are applied to the skin in a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition, which typically includes a physiologically acceptable carrier, for example, water and optionally water-soluble solvents. The pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition includes a sufficient amount of the one or more bioactive walnut peptides to ensure that a therapeutically effective amount of the one or more walnut peptides is delivered to the skin during use.

[0019] Bioactive walnut peptides are useful for treating age-related inflammation. For example, bioactive walnut peptides remarkably and advantageously reduce, treat, or prevent pro-inflammatory cytokines in the skin. Pro-inflammatory cytokines are among the first factors produced in response to skin damage and regulate the functions of immune cells in epithelialization. In various embodiments, the bioactive peptides of the present disclosure prevent or downregulate the production, release, or abundance of interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8), or any combination thereof.

[0020] Bioactive walnut peptides are useful for stimulating skin cells called fibroblasts, which produce collagen and elastin to clarify, thicken, and firm the skin. Growth factors are extremely important for regulating cellular processes in the human body, including the skin. The bioactive walnut peptides of this disclosure are useful for stimulating the production, release, and abundance of epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF is a repair compound that signals cells to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. This helps repair and renew cells, resulting in a brighter, more youthful complexion. In addition, bioactive walnut peptides are useful for stimulating the production, release, and abundance of hepatocyte growth factor (HGF).Increased HGF improves tissue fibrosis and reverses collagen metabolism imbalances. Finally, bioactive walnut peptides are useful for potentiating the production, release, and abundance of transforming growth factor alpha (TGFa or TGF-a). TGFa is a growth factor. Transforming growth factor (TGFα) acts as a ligand for the epidermal growth factor receptor, which activates a signaling pathway for cell proliferation, differentiation, and development. Therefore, an increase in TGFα can accelerate skin rejuvenation and repair.

[0021] In other embodiments, the bioactive nut peptides of the present disclosure are useful for potentiating, inducing, and increasing skin autophagy, for example, in senescent fibroblasts. Senescent cells are characterized by their inability to proliferate. They tend to accumulate with age and contribute to age-related skin changes and pathologies. Induction of autophagy allows the body to destroy and metabolize damaged or redundant cellular components that occur in vacuoles within cells. A natural reduction in autophagy occurs with age. Thus, restoring or inducing autophagy helps to improve skin health and prevent premature skin aging, for example, skin aging due to sun damage.

[0022] Due to their bioactive properties, including those described above, bioactive nut peptides are useful in processes for improving the appearance of skin; reducing, treating or preventing age-related skin inflammation and skin conditions associated with age-related inflammation; promoting fibroblast migration; potentiating hyaluronic acid synthesis, increasing or promoting the synthesis or abundance of collagen, elastin and / or fibronectin; improving skin elasticity; promoting skin autophagy; and combinations thereof.

[0023] In various embodiments, the use of two or more bioactive nut peptides is preferred. These two or more bioactive nut peptides may have similar activities or may offer different activities beneficial to the skin. In other embodiments, the use of three or more bioactive nut peptides is preferred. The use of multiple bioactive peptides allows for the modification of more than one physiological mechanism in skin treatment. For example, one or more bioactive nut peptides may be useful for preventing and / or treating age-related inflammation, while another bioactive nut peptide may be useful for stimulating fibroblasts that produce collagen and elastin to clarify, thicken, and firm the skin.Furthermore, combinations of bioactive nut peptides can interact synergistically and provide benefits that exceed the sum of the individual peptide contributions. For example, the synergistic activity of a combination can be at least 5%, at least 10%, or at least 25% greater than the sum of the individual activities of the corresponding amounts of the bioactive nut peptides.

[0024] One or more bioactive nut peptides are often incorporated into a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition for application to the skin. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic composition typically includes one or more bioactive nut peptides and one or more physiologically acceptable carriers, for example, water. Non-limiting examples of physiologically acceptable carriers include water, water-soluble solvents such as alcohols, polyols, and glycols, fatty compounds such as oils, triglycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and the like. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions include lotions, creams, serums, sprays, emulsions, gels, powders, dispersions, ointments, sticks, pastes, and foams. Brief description of the drawings

[0025] An implementation of this technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0026] [Fig.1A] Figure 1 (a) shows the concentration of interleukin-6 (IL-6) released by adult human skin fibroblasts in response to treatment with 100 µM and 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II and peptide III.

[0027] [Fig.1B] Figure 1 (b) shows the concentration of interleukin-8 (IL-8) released by adult human skin fibroblasts in response to treatment with 100 µM and 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II and peptide III.

[0028] [Fig.2A] Figure 2 (a) shows the amounts of epidermal growth factor (EGF) generated with the reconstructed human epidermis in response to treatment with 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II and peptide III, and their combinations.

[0029] [Fig.2B] Figure 2 (b) shows the amounts of hepatocyte growth factor (HGF) generated by the reconstructed human epidermis in response to treatment with 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II and peptide III, and their combinations.

[0030] [Fig.2C] Figure 2 (c) shows the quantities of transforming growth factor alpha (TGFa) generated by the reconstructed human epidermis in response to treatment with 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II and peptide III, and their combinations.

[0031] [Fig.4] Fig.4 shows the average intensity of active mitochondria of adult human skin fibroblasts in response to treatment with 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II, peptide III, and their combinations.

[0032] The various aspects of disclosure are not limited to the results, arrangements and representations shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0033] This disclosure relates to bioactive walnut peptides and their topical use for skin treatment. The bioactive walnut peptides comprise two to several dozen amino acids linked together by peptide bonds. Their weight The molecular weight is generally less than 6,000 Da, preferably less than 3,000 Da, and more preferably less than 1,000 Da. The term "peptide" in accordance with this disclosure is a compound that includes an unbroken sequence of at least two amino acids within its structure and has a maximum of about 50 amino acids. The terms "dipeptide" or "dipeptide" as used herein refer to a compound that includes an unbroken sequence of two amino acids within its structure. The terms "tripeptide" or "tripeptide" as used herein refer to a compound that includes an unbroken sequence of three amino acids within its structure. As used herein, a "tetrapeptide" or "tetrapeptide" is a compound that includes an unbroken sequence of four amino acids within its structure.These amino acids are indicated here using a traditional one-letter convention from left (N-terminal end) to right (C-terminal end). In this nomenclature, G is glycine, H is histidine, K is lysine, E is glutamic acid, and so on, according to a well-known and accepted nomenclature in art.

[0034] A “bioactive” peptide, as defined in this disclosure, has a minimum length of 2 or 3 amino acid residues up to approximately 20 amino acid residues and has a measurable physiological effect on skin cells. Bioactive peptides include amino acids linked by covalent bonds, also known as amide or peptide bonds, whereas proteins are polypeptides with a higher molecular weight (MW) and generally more than 50 amino acid residues. Bioactive peptides typically exhibit hormonal or drug-like activities and are classified according to their mechanism of action. Many bioactive peptides share certain structural features, which include, for example, a peptide residue length of 2 to 20 amino acids.

[0035] The term "amino acid" as used herein includes and encompasses all natural amino acids, in the D or L configuration if optically active, and known non-native, synthetic, and modified amino acids, such as homocysteine, omithine, norleucine, and p-valine. A list of non-natural amino acids can be found in *The Peptides*, Vol. 5 (1983), Academy Press, Chapter VI, by D.C. Roberts and F. Vellaccio, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The amino acids in the peptides of the present invention may be present in their natural L configuration, their non-natural D configuration, or as a racemic mixture.

[0036] As used herein, the term "peptide" also refers to the salts, unprotected forms, acylated forms of the peptide, deacylated forms of the peptide, enantiomers, diastereomers, racemates, prodrugs, and hydrates of the aforementioned peptide. Diastereomers of the peptide are obtained when the stereochemical or chiral center of one or more amino acids is modified. The enantiomer exhibits opposite stereochemistry in all chiral centers. In various embodiments, the C-terminus of a peptide is synthesized as an amide to neutralize the negative charge created by the C-terminal COOH. This modification can be added to help prevent enzymatic degradation.

[0037] The term “prodrug” refers to any precursor compound that can generate or release the aforementioned peptide under physiological conditions. Such prodrugs are, for example, larger peptides that are selectively cleaved to form the peptide of the invention. Other prodrugs are protected amino acids having protecting groups at the carboxylic acid and / or amino group. Suitable protecting groups for amino groups include, for example, benzyloxycarbonyl, t-butyloxycarbonyl (BOC), formyl, and acetyl or acyl groups. Suitable protecting groups for the carboxylic acid group are esters such as benzyl esters or t-butyl esters.

[0038] This disclosure includes methods for treating skin comprising the topical application of a therapeutically effective amount of one or more walnut peptides to the skin. In various embodiments, the one or more bioactive walnut peptides have a molecular weight of less than 10,000 Da. In other embodiments, the one or more bioactive walnut peptides have a molecular weight of less than 8,000 Da, less than 6,000 Da, less than 5,000 Da, less than 4,000 Da, less than 3,000 Da, less than 2,000 Da, less than 1,000 Da, and even less than 500 Da. Preferably, the one or more bioactive walnut peptides have a molecular weight of less than 5,000 Da, more preferably less than 2,000 Da, and even more preferably less than 1,000 Da.

[0039] The number of amino acid residues in the one or more bioactive nut peptides will vary and may be limited depending on the molecular weights described above. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the one or more bioactive nut peptides comprise from 2 to approximately 50 amino acid residues.In other embodiments, the bioactive peptide(s) have from 2 to approximately 25 amino acid residues, from approximately 2 to approximately 20 amino acid residues, from approximately 2 to approximately 18 amino acid residues, from approximately 2 to approximately 15 amino acid residues, from approximately 2 to approximately 12 amino acid residues, from approximately 2 to approximately 10 amino acid residues, from approximately 3 to approximately 25 amino acid residues, from approximately 3 to approximately 20 amino acid residues, from approximately 3 to approximately 18 amino acid residues, from approximately 3 to approximately 18 amino acid residues, from approximately 3 to approximately 15 amino acid residues, from approximately 3 to approximately 12 amino acid residues, or from approximately 3 to approximately 10 amino acid residues. amino acid. Preferably, the one or more bioactive peptides comprise 2 to 20 amino acid residues, more preferably 2 to about 15 amino acid residues, and even more preferably 3 to about 12 amino acid residues.

[0040] In various embodiments, the one or more bioactive nut peptides include one or more amino acid residues selected from leucine, proline, and combinations thereof. In another embodiment, the one or more bioactive nut peptides include three or more amino acid residues selected from leucine, proline, or a combination thereof. Non-limiting examples of a bioactive peptide of three or more amino acid residues selected from leucine, proline, and combinations thereof include Leu-Pro-Leu, Leu-Leu-Pro, Pro-Pro-Leu, and Pro-Leu-Pro. For example, one or more bioactive nut peptides may include an amino acid sequence chosen from Thr-Trp-Leu-Pro-Leu-Pro-Arg, Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys, or Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr.As already mentioned, bioactive nut peptides include salts, deprotected forms, acylated forms, deacylated forms, enantiomers, diastereomers, racemates, prodrugs, and hydrates of a particular amino acid sequence.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, at least one, and preferably all, of one or more bioactive nut peptides are selected from peptide I, peptide II and peptide III, including salts, deprotected forms, acylated forms, deacylated forms, enantiomers, diastereomers, racemates, prodrugs, and their hydrates.

[0042] Peptide I TWLPLPR (Thr-Trp-Leu-Pro-Leu-Pro-Arg),

[0043] Peptide II YVLLPSPK (Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys), and

[0044] Peptide III KVPPLLY (Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr).

[0045] In various embodiments, the use of two bioactive nut peptidesOne or more is desirable. The two or more bioactive nut peptides may share similar activities or may offer different activities beneficial to the skin. In other embodiments, the use of three or more bioactive nut peptides is preferred. The use of multiple bioactive peptides allows for leveraging more than one physiological mechanism for skin treatment. For example, one or more bioactive nut peptides may be useful for preventing and / or treating age-related inflammation, while another bioactive nut peptide may be useful for stimulating fibroblasts that produce collagen and elastin to clarify, thicken, and firm the skin. Furthermore, as shown later, combinations of bioactive nut peptides interact synergistically to provide benefits that go beyond the sum of the individual peptide contributions.For example, the synergistic activity of a combination of bioactive nut peptides may be at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, and more preferably at least 25% greater than the sum of the activities of the corresponding individual amounts of the bioactive nut peptides.

[0046] Combinations of peptide I, peptide II, and peptide III are particularly useful. For example, a combination of peptide I and peptide II, a combination of peptide I and peptide III, a combination of peptide II and peptide III, or a combination of peptide I, peptide II, and peptide III can be used. The peptides in the combinations can be included in various weight ratios relative to each other as described below.

[0047] Peptide I and peptide II can be used together in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1. In other embodiments, peptide I and peptide II can be used together in a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:8, about 5:1 to about 1:5, about 4:1 to about 1:4, about 3:1 to about 1:3, about 2:1 to about 1:2, or about 1:1.

[0048] Peptide I and peptide III can be used together in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1. In other embodiments, peptide I and peptide III can be used together in a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:8, about 5:1 to about 1:5, about 4:1 to about 1:4, about 3:1 to about 1:3, about 2:1 to about 1:2, or about 1:1.

[0049] Peptide II and peptide III can be used together in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1. In other embodiments, peptide II and peptide III can be used together in a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:8, about 5:1 to about 1:5, about 4:1 to about 1:4, about 3:1 to about 1:3, about 2:1 to about 1:2, or about 1:1.

[0050] Bioactive walnut peptides are useful for treating age-related inflammation and for preventing, reducing, and even reversing the effects of skin aging. Bioactive walnut peptides advantageously reduce, treat, or prevent pro-inflammatory cytokines in the skin. Pro-inflammatory cytokines are among the first factors produced in response to skin damage and regulate the functions of immune cells in epithelialization. In various embodiments, the bioactive peptides of the present disclosure prevent the production, release, or abundance of interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8), or any combination thereof.

[0051] Bioactive walnut peptides are useful for stimulating skin cells called fibroblasts, which produce collagen and elastin to clarify, thicken, and firm the skin. Growth factors are extremely important for regulating cellular processes in the human body, including the skin. In particular, the bioactive walnut peptides of the present disclosure are useful for potentiating the production, release, and abundance of epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF is a repair compound that signals cells to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. This It helps repair and renew cells, resulting in a brighter, more youthful complexion. Furthermore, bioactive walnut peptides are also beneficial for boosting the production, release, and abundance of hepatocyte growth factor (HGF). Increased HGF improves tissue fibrosis and reverses imbalances in collagen metabolism. Finally, bioactive walnut peptides are beneficial for boosting the production, release, and abundance of transforming growth factor alpha (TGFa or TGF-a). TGF-a is a transforming growth factor that acts as a ligand for the epidermal growth factor receptor, which activates a signaling pathway for cell proliferation, differentiation, and development. Therefore, increased TGF-a can accelerate skin rejuvenation and repair.

[0052] In other embodiments, the bioactive nut peptides of the present disclosure are useful for potentiating, inducing, or increasing autophagy, for example, in senescent fibroblasts. Senescent cells are characterized by their inability to proliferate. They tend to accumulate with age and contribute to age-related skin changes and pathologies. Induction of autophagy allows the body to destroy and metabolize damaged or redundant cellular components that occur in vacuoles within cells. A natural reduction in autophagy occurs with age. Thus, restoring autophagy using the bioactive peptides of the present disclosure helps to improve or prevent premature skin aging, for example, skin aging due to sun damage.

[0053] Due to their bioactive properties, including those described above, bioactive walnut peptides are useful in processes for improving the appearance of skin; reducing, treating and / or preventing skin aging and / or the effects of skin aging; increasing fibroblast proliferation; stimulating epithelial cell proliferation, motility, morphogenesis and / or angiogenesis; promoting fibroblast migration; increasing the abundance or synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and / or increasing the synthesis or abundance of collagen, elastin and / or fibronectin; improving skin elasticity; and / or improving autophagy in cutaneous fibroblasts.

[0054] One or more bioactive nut peptides are often incorporated into a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition for application to the skin. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions typically include one or more bioactive nut peptides and a physiologically acceptable carrier. A "physiological carrier" as used here is a suitable and safe carrier for application to human skin. Water is a physiologically acceptable carrier. Acceptable carriers are particularly common. However, physiologically acceptable carriers may include oils, fats, organic solvents, and the like, provided they are suitable and safe for application to the skin. Non-limiting examples of physiologically acceptable carriers include water, water-soluble solvents such as alcohols, polyols, and glycols, fatty compounds such as oils, triglycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and the like. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions disclosed herein may include lotions, creams, serums, sprays, emulsions, gels, powders, dispersions, ointments, sticks, pastes, or foams.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, one or more bioactive nut peptides reduce, treat or prevent the production, release or abundance of pro-inflammatory cytokines in the skin, for example, interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8), or one of their combinations.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment, one or more bioactive nut peptides potentiate the production, release or abundance of epidermal growth factor (EGF), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF) and / or transforming growth factor alpha (TGFa) in the skin.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, one or more bioactive nut peptides potentiate or upregulate skin autophagy, for example in aging or senescent fibroblasts.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, one or more bioactive nut peptides potentiate or enhance mitochondrial function or activity of skin cells, for example, in fibroblasts or in senescent fibroblasts.

[0059] Bioactive nut peptides can be obtained from the hydrolysis of nut proteins into small molecular peptides with molecular weights between the molecular weights of individual amino acids and the molecular weights of proteins. This can be achieved using biological or chemical processes. For example, bioactive peptides can be prepared by enzymatic procedures, fermentation, and chemical processes.

[0060] Bioactive nut peptides can be synthesized by coupling the carboxyl group or C-terminus of one amino acid to the amino group or N-terminus of another. Due to the possibility of unforeseen reactions, protecting groups are sometimes required. The chemical synthesis of peptides begins at the C-terminus of the peptide and ends at the N-terminus. Peptides can be synthesized either by solid-phase peptide synthesis, liquid-phase peptide synthesis, or fragment condensation. In principle, the seemingly simple formation of a peptide bond can be achieved using of all the procedures available in organic chemistry for the synthesis of carboxylic acid amides.

[0061] The general process for synthesizing peptides in the solid phase (e.g., a resin) begins with the attachment of the first amino acid, the C-terminal residue, to the resin. To prevent polymerization of the amino acid, the alpha-amino group and the reactive side chains are protected by a temporary protecting group. Once the amino acid is attached to the resin, the resin is filtered and washed to remove byproducts and excess reagents. Next, the N-alpha protecting group is removed in a deprotection process, and the resin is washed again to remove byproducts and excess reagents. Then, the next amino acid is coupled to the attached amino acid. This is followed by another washing procedure, which leaves the resin-peptide assembly ready for the next coupling cycle. The cycle is repeated until the peptide sequence is complete.Next, typically, all the protecting groups are removed, the peptide resin is washed away, and the peptide is cleaved from the resin.

[0062] Enzymatic hydrolysis involves the use of commercial enzymes to obtain bioactive peptides. The enzymes are responsible for cleaving the peptide bonds established in the protein, thereby releasing the encrypted peptide. For the enzyme to exert its activity, it is important that the enzyme binds to the substrate and proceeds with enzymatic catalysis. The enzyme possesses specific active sites containing residues that form temporary bonds with the substrate and residues that catalyze the reaction with the substrate. In this way, binding sites and catalytic sites are formed, respectively. The bonds forming the enzyme-substrate complex are usually hydrogen bonds, hydrophobic interactions, or Van der Waals interactions.Enzymatic hydrolysis can generally be carried out in three ways: (i) under traditional batch conditions; (ii) using immobilized enzymes; or (iii) using ultrafiltration membranes. Many proteolytic enzymes are known and include those described, for example, in Cruz-Casas et al., Enzymatic Hydrolysis and Microbial Fermentation: The Most Favorable Biotechnological Methods for the Release of Bioactive Peptides (Food Chem (Oxf). 3:100047, Dec. 30, 2021), which is incorporated here in its entirety by reference.

[0063] Microbial fermentation is a biotechnological process that yields bioactive peptides. This process involves the use of microorganisms capable of producing proteolytic enzymes, with the aim of having these enzymes hydrolyze proteins into shorter peptides. The microorganisms generally used are bacteria, fungi, or yeasts, which may be present in the substrate natively or added as a starter culture. The microbial fermentation process can be divided into several systems. However, the Immersion fermentation and solid-state fermentation are the most widely used.

[0064] Immersion fermentation uses a culture of microorganisms in a liquid medium containing nutrients. This system is suitable for microorganisms with high activity levels in water, such as bacteria, and offers the advantage that the generated bioactive peptides are easy to purify. Solid-state fermentation uses microbial growth on nutrient-rich solid substrates. It has the advantage of releasing nutrients in a controlled manner and is suitable for fungi and microorganisms with lower moisture requirements.

[0065] Bioactive nut peptides can be produced using any process known to the person skilled in the art such as those disclosed in Merrifield, RB, Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis I., J. AM. CHEM. SOC. 85:2149-2154 (1963); Carpino, LA et al., [(9-Fluorenylmethyl)Oxy] Carbonyl (Fmoc) Amino Acid Chlorides: Synthesis, Characterization, And Application To The Rapid Synthesis Of Short Peptides, J. ORG. CHEM. 37:51:3732-3734; Merrifield, RB et al., Instrument F or Automated Synthesis Of Peptides, ANAL. CHEM. 38:1905-1914 (1966); or Kent, SBH et al., High Yield Chemical Synthesis Of Biologically Active Peptides On An Automated Peptide Synthesizer OfNovel Design, IN: PEPTIDES 1984 (Ragnarsson U., ed.) Almqvist and Wiksell Int., Stockholm (Sweden), p. 185-188.

[0066] The therapeutically effective amount of one or more bioactive nut peptides will vary depending on the specific bioactive nut peptide and the combination of bioactive nut peptides. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the therapeutically effective amount can range from approximately 1 pg to approximately 50 mg (50,000 pg) per cm² of skin. In other embodiments, the therapeutically effective amount of one or more walnut peptides is approximately 1 pg to approximately 40 mg, approximately 1 pg to approximately 30 mg, approximately 1 to approximately 20 mg, approximately 1 pg to approximately 10 mg, approximately 1 pg to approximately 8,000 pg, approximately 1 pg to approximately 5,000 pg, approximately 1 pg to approximately 2,000 pg, approximately 1 pg to approximately 1,000 pg, approximately 10 pg to approximately 40 mg, approximately 10 pg to approximately 30 mg, approximately 10 to approximately 20 mg, approximately 10 pg to approximately 10 mg, approximately 10 pg to approximately 8,000 pg, approximately 10 pg to approximately 5,000 pg, from approximately 10 pg to approximately 2000 pg, from approximately 10 pg to approximately 1000 pg,from approximately 100 pg to approximately 50 mg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 40 mg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 30 mg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 20 mg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 10 mg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 8,000 pg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 5,000 pg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 2,000 pg, from approximately 100 pg to approximately 1,000 pg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 50 mg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 40 mg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 30 mg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 30 mg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 20 mg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 10 mg, from approximately 500 to approximately 8,000 pg, from approximately 500 pg to approximately 5,000, pg, from about 500 pg to about 2,000 pg or from about 500 |ig to about 1,000 |ig per cm2 of skin.

[0067] Bioactive nut peptides are typically formulated with a physiologically acceptable carrier and applied to the skin in the form of a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition. The amount of one or more bioactive nut peptides will vary depending on their activity, use, and interaction with additional bioactive nut peptides that may optionally be included in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more bioactive nut peptides, relative to the total weight of the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition.

[0068] In other embodiments, the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 0.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 at about 2% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more bioactive nut peptides, relative to the total weight of the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition.

[0069] In one embodiment, the one or more bioactive peptides and pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions described throughout this disclosure are useful for improving skin traction properties, potentiating collagen synthesis and / or activating the collagen biosynthesis pathway.

[0070] Collagen appears in many places in the body. To date, at least 28 types of collagen have been identified and described, which offer a variety of structural and functional properties that collagen is present throughout the body. The five most common types are collagens I, II, III, IV, and V. However, more than 90% of the collagen present in the body is type I.

[0071] In human skin, collagen types I and III are the predominant types. They are present in the form of fibrils and are responsible for the strength and resilience of the dermis. Since type I collagen is the predominant collagen in adult human skin, constituting approximately 80% of the total collagen mass, it plays a major role in providing resistance to the traction to the skin. However, it is clear that type III collagen, which constitutes about 10% of total dermal collagen, also plays an essential role in providing additional traction properties to the skin and other tissues.

[0072] Structurally, three collagen polypeptides twist around each other in a helix to form a triple-helix collagen I or III molecule. These molecules are organized into a five-strand rope-like structure in which each collagen molecule is offset by one-quarter relative to the next to form a microfibril. The microfibrils are then wound around other microfibrils to form fibrils, which in turn wind around other fibrils to produce even larger fibrils.

[0073] Using histological and ultrastructural approaches in the past, it has been well described that chronologically aged skin is characterized by reduced synthesis of both types I and III collagen. Regarding photoaging, Schwarz et al. (Photochem Photobiol 1993, 58, 841-844) demonstrated that collagen loss in sun-damaged human skin is due to increased degradation of both types I and III collagen. Furthermore, it has been shown that fibroblasts from sun-exposed skin synthesize a lower proportion of type III collagen than cells from sun-protected skin. (J Photochem Photobiol B. 1995, 27: 33-38).

[0074] Other types of collagen are also present in the skin and can change with skin aging. For example, type VII collagen, responsible for anchoring the basement membrane to the dermal matrix, decreases with age. (See Eur J Dermatol 2008; 18: 297-302). One of the main additional morphological features of aged skin is an altered dermal-epidermal junction, which is structurally manifested by a flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction contour with the loss of the insertion pedicels and the re-duplication of the lamina densa.Since the dermal-epidermal junction is involved in the cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis, age-related alterations of the dermal-epidermal junction resulting from the decrease in type VII collagen lead to functional changes in the skin's resistance to mechanical stress and tissue homeostasis, which probably contributes to the formation of wrinkles.

[0075] Collagen V assembles in various molecular forms and is believed to be expressed in the skin as different subtypes with important but distinct roles in matrix organization and stability. (See J Invest Dermatol 2012, 132: 1841-1849). While collagen V is the defective product in most cases of classic Ehlers-Danlos syndrome, which is a disorder of the extracellular matrix typically characterized by skin fragility and scarring abnormal wounds, it does not appear to change significantly with skin aging.

[0076] Other types of collagen such as collagens VI, XIV and XVI are also expressed in the collagen-rich dermis.

[0077] In vivo collagen production requires activation of the collagen biosynthesis pathway, whereby transcription in the cell nucleus promotes polypeptide synthesis via mRNA translation, organization of polypeptides into a procollagen triple helix in the cytoplasm, secretion of procollagen from the cell, and subsequent cleavage reactions, fibrillar assembly, and cross-linking via the extracellular pathway. Unlike many proteins stored in secretory granules and then secreted by the cell on demand, collagen is secreted continuously.

[0078] In one embodiment of this disclosure, the one or more bioactive nut peptides and the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions comprising them are useful for improving skin elasticity, potentiating elastin synthesis and preventing elastin deterioration.

[0079] Elastin is a vital component of the vertebrate extracellular matrix and provides exceptional properties, including elasticity and tensile strength, to many tissues and organs, including the skin. Mature elastin is an insoluble and extremely durable protein that undergoes little turnover, but prolonged exposure to proteases can lead to irreversible and serious damage, and thus a functional loss of the elastic fiber network. In general, elastin content decreases with age in skin not exposed to the sun (i.e., the buttocks) (i.e., elastin content decreases by about 44% between 50 and 70 years of age). A similar decrease has been observed in skin severely exposed to the sun (i.e., the face) (i.e., elastin content decreases by about 31% between 50 and 70 years of age).It is interesting to note that elastin content in areas moderately exposed to the sun (i.e., the forearm) does not change significantly during aging. This phenomenon could be explained by a combination of age-induced reduction and sun-dependent increase in elastin, which appears to be at least partially regulated by UV-induced lysozyme deposition in elastin fibers. (See JEADV, 2006, 20, 980-987).

[0080] Fibrillins (e.g., fibrillin 1) are ubiquitous glycoproteins of the extracellular matrix that self-polymerize into filamentous microfibrils in which individual molecules are organized into longitudinal head-to-tail networks and also associate laterally. (See Fibrogenesis & Tissue Repair, 2010, 3, 24). Fibrillin microfibrils can further serve as a structural template for the deposition and / or cross-linking of tropoelastin during formation of elastic fibers. Specific segments of fibrillins interact in vitro with numerous extracellular and cell surface signaling molecules, including fibronectin, fibulins, syndecans, and integrins. The multiple molecular interactions of fibrillins are thought to lead to the assembly of morphologically distinct macroaggregates, which contribute to conferring structural integrity to individual tissues and organs (structural role), and target TGF-beta and BMP complexes in the architectural matrix, which helps instruct cell behavior (instructive role). TGF-beta and BMP are potent modulators of extracellular matrix metabolism that are controlled by a complex network of relays and servomechanisms operating within, outside, and at the cell surface.Thus, fibrillins are important components of the extracellular matrix that are necessary for the formation of other extracellular matrix components such as elastin and the formation of elastic fibers.

[0081] In one embodiment of this disclosure, the one or more bioactive peptides and the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions comprising them are useful for increasing hyaluronic acid levels in the skin's extracellular matrix, for potentiating the production of glycosaminoglycans, or one of their combinations.

[0082] Hyaluronic acid (also called hyaluronan) is a non-sulfated anionic glycosaminoglycan. It is unique among glycosaminoglycans because it is non-sulfated and can be very large, with its molecular weight (g mol⁻¹) often reaching millions. As a predominant bulky molecule, hyaluronic acid is a major component of the skin's extracellular matrix. It provides structure, volume (associated with hyaluronic acid's excellent water-retention properties), and organization (e.g., facilitating the transport of ionic solutes and nutrients), but also contributes significantly to cell proliferation and migration in the dermis. Furthermore, thanks to hyaluronic acid's water-absorbing properties, it contributes to skin hydration.

[0083] Glycosaminoglycans (for example, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, etc.) and in particular hyaluronic acid are major components of the cutaneous extracellular matrix involved in wound healing and tissue regeneration. Wound healing is a dynamic and interactive process involving numerous precisely interdependent phases that overlap over time and lead to the restoration of tissue integrity. The healing process reflects the complex and coordinated response of the body to tissue damage resulting from the interaction of different cell types and matrix components. Extracellular. Hyaluronan plays a key role in each phase of wound healing by stimulating cell migration, differentiation, and proliferation, as well as regulating the organization and metabolism of the extracellular matrix. Glycosaminoglycans, and in particular hyaluronic acid, are also involved in skin aging.

[0084] As summarized by R. Stem in 2010 (Textbook of Aging Skin, Springer), although dermal hyaluronic acid is responsible for the majority of hyaluronic acid in the skin, epidermal cells (e.g., keratinocytes) are also capable of synthesizing hyaluronic acid. The most significant histochemical change observed in aged skin is the marked decrease in epidermal hyaluronic acid. In the skin of an elderly person, hyaluronic acid is still present in the dermis, while epidermal hyaluronic acid has completely disappeared. The reasons for this precipitate decline with aging are unknown. It has been described that the synthesis of epidermal hyaluronic acid is influenced by the underlying dermis, thus indicating that epidermal hyaluronic acid is under separate control from dermal hyaluronic acid.

[0085] In one embodiment of this disclosure, the one or more bioactive peptides and the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions comprising them are useful for wound healing, minimizing scar formation, or a combination thereof.

[0086] In addition to skin aging, collagens I and III are also major components of the extracellular matrix involved in scar formation. Scar formation occurs after trauma, injury, or surgery on a tissue or organ of the body. These scars are the result of a repair mechanism that replaces the missing normal tissue with an extracellular matrix composed mainly of type I and III collagen, as well as fibronectin and certain other extracellular matrix components. Scarring represents imperfect tissue regeneration. While skin wounds on early mammalian embryos (e.g., up to about 24 weeks of gestation in humans) heal perfectly without any signs of scarring and with complete restoration of normal skin architecture, postnatal wounds heal with scars. (See Dang C et al., Clin Plast Surg 2003: 30, 13-23). .

[0087] Phenotypic differences exist between collagen content and cross-linking patterns in fetal and postnatal wounds (see Clin Plast Surg 2003, 30, 13-23 and Curr Opin Pediatr 2012, 24, 371-378). In fetal wounds, type III collagen is rapidly deposited in a fine reticular network that is indistinguishable from uninjured skin. After birth, the ratio of type I collagen to type III collagen changes. Type III collagen in wounds is increasing. Among the many identified collagen types, fetal skin is known to contain a higher proportion of type III collagen, while adult skin is predominantly composed of type I collagen. The predominance of type I collagen in postnatal wounds provides regenerative tissues with greater strength and rigidity. Early scar formation in fetal wounds at the end of gestation shows larger collagen fibers with a greater interfiber space.

[0088] In one embodiment of this disclosure, the one or more bioactive peptides and the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions comprising them are useful for preventing, treating or reversing skin aging and / or signs of skin aging.

[0089] All expressions such as "skin aging", "signs of skin aging", "topical application" and the like are used in the sense in which they are generally and widely used in the art of developing, testing and marketing pharmaceutical, cosmetic and personal care products, as well as drugs indicated for skin aging.

[0090] Skin aging is classified as intrinsic and extrinsic aging based on its cause. Intrinsic aging is a process by which the skin's structure and physiological functions deteriorate independently of environmental changes as a human ages. Extrinsic aging is caused by continuous exposure to the external environment, such as sunlight and air pollutants. In particular, skin aging caused by sunlight is called photoaging. Ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun is the primary cause of the physiological and morphological changes in aging skin.

[0091] As the skin ages intrinsically, it dries out and wrinkles and fine lines form, becoming more visible and deeper with age. In addition, due to structural and functional changes in the epidermis and dermis, the skin loses its elasticity and appears to sag. With age, the dermis becomes thinner and clearly visible skin folds (e.g., the nasolabial fold) form. It is estimated that the total amount of collagen lost each year in adults is approximately 1%. Furthermore, the remaining collagen fibers gradually become thicker, while the cross-linking of the collagen fibers increases, so that solubility, elasticity, and other properties decrease. In addition, the elastin fibers become thicker and their cross-linking also increases.Furthermore, the proliferative activity of fibroblasts in the dermis decreases over time, and the ability of aging fibroblasts to form (i.e., synthesize) new collagen, elastin, . hyaluronic acid and other components of the extracellular matrix also decrease.

[0092] Continuous sun exposure is the primary cause of extrinsic skin aging. The UV component of sunlight, particularly UVA and UVB, is generally considered the main causative agent in this process known as photoaging. The extent of UV exposure required to cause "photoaging" is not currently known, although the amount sufficient to cause erythema (redness, commonly described as sunburn) on human skin is quantified as the "minimum perceptible erythema dose" (MED) from a given UV light source. Repeated exposure to the sun's UV radiation at levels that cause erythema and tanning are nevertheless frequently associated with photoaging.

[0093] There is a difference between the physiology of intrinsically aged skin (i.e., chronologically aged) and that of photoaged skin. Chronologically aged skin generally retains a smooth and flawless appearance, in contrast to the tanned, mottled, and often deep wrinkles of photoaged skin. Photoaging is clinically characterized by roughness, wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, a yellowish tint, laxity, telangiectasia, lentigines, purpura and a relative ease of bruising, atrophy, depigmented areas, and finally premalignant and ultimately malignant neoplasia (i.e., an abnormal tissue mass due to neoplasia, which is the abnormal proliferation of cells). Photoaging commonly occurs on skin that is generally exposed to sunlight, such as the face, ears, bald areas of the scalp, neck, décolletage, forearms, and hands.

[0094] Although the typical appearance of photo-aged and chronologically aged human skin can be easily distinguished, recent evidence indicates that chronologically aged and UV-irradiated skin share important molecular features, including altered signal transduction pathways that promote matrix metalloproteinase expression (e.g., collagenase, gelatinase), leading to extracellular matrix degradation, decreased collagen formation, and alteration or damage to the skin's extracellular matrix, such as the accumulation of amorphous elastin-containing material residing below the dermal-epidermal junction. This concordance of molecular mechanisms suggests that UV irradiation accelerates many key aspects of the chronological aging process of human skin.

[0095] “Signs of skin aging” include, but are not limited to, all external manifestations that are visible and perceptible to the touch, as well as any other macro or micro effect due to skin aging. These signs can be induced or caused by intrinsic factors (manifesting as chronological skin aging) and extrinsic factors (manifesting as environmental damage to the skin, including, but not limited to, photo-aged skin). These signs can result from processes that include, but are not limited to, the development of textural discontinuities such as coarse wrinkles and deep lines, fine lines or wrinkles, fissures, bumps, enlarged pores (e.g., associated with adnexal structures such as sweat gland ducts, sebaceous glands, etc.).), or irregularity or roughness, loss of skin elasticity (loss and / or inactivation of functional skin elastin), sagging (including puffiness around the eyes and jowls), loss of skin firmness, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin recoil due to deformation, discoloration (including dark circles), spotting, yellowish tint, hyperpigmented areas of the skin such as age spots and freckles, keratoses, abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, collagen breakdown, and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, cutaneous vascular system (e.g., telangiectasia or spider veins) and underlying tissues, especially those close to the skin.

[0096] In various embodiments of this disclosure, one or more bioactive peptides and pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions comprising them are useful for preventing, treating, or prophylactically regulating a skin condition. As used herein, the prevention, treatment, or prophylactic regulation of a skin condition includes delaying, minimizing, and / or preventing visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin (e.g., textural irregularities in the skin that can be detected visually or by touch), including signs of skin aging. This includes improving, for example, reducing, minimizing, and / or eliminating skin discontinuities, including signs of skin aging.

[0097] Pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions including one or more bioactive nut peptides may be formulated in various forms, for example, lotions, creams, serums, sprays, emulsions, gels, powders, dispersions, ointments, sticks, pastes, and foams. In addition to a physiologically acceptable carrier, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more of the following: • ascorbates and other vitamins, • active sun protection agents, • active anti-wrinkle agents and active anti-atrophy agents, • wetting agents, humectants and revitalizing agents, • emollients, • antioxidants and free radical scavengers, • active desquamating agents, keratolytic agents and exfoliating agents, • suspending agents, • emulsifying agents, • thickeners, and / or • antihistamines. Ascorbates and other vitamins

[0098] The pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions of this disclosure may contain one or more vitamins, such as ascorbates (e.g., vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexadecyl scorbate, ascorbyl phosphate, aminopin-3-aminopinamine), B vitamins, vitamin B derivatives, vitamin B1-vitamin B12 and their derivatives, vitamin K, vitamin K derivatives, vitamin H, vitamin D, vitamin D3, vitamin D derivatives, vitamin E, vitamin E derivatives and its provitamins, such as enthenol, and mixtures thereof. The vitamin compounds may be included as substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by appropriate physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.

[0099] The quantity of one or more vitamin compounds in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions will vary but is typically from about 0.0001% to about 25%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, relative to the total weight of the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions. Active sun protection agents

[0100] The pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition of this disclosure may optionally contain active sunscreens, which may also be referred to as UV filtering agents. As used herein, "active sunscreens" include both solar reflectors and physical sunscreens. Suitable active sunscreens may be organic or inorganic. A wide variety of standard organic or inorganic active sunscreens are suitable for use in accordance with the present invention.

[0101] The quantity of one or more active sun protection agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions will vary. However, in some embodiments, pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions include from about 0.1% to about 25%, more often from about 0.5% to about 10%, of active sun protection agents, relative to the total weight of pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions.

[0102] Non-limiting examples of organic sunscreen active agents include ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, dicamphorus sulfonic acid terephthalilide, benzophenone-4-benzophenone-3 camphor methylbenzylidene, benzimidazylate, anisotriazine, ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, methylene-bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, dromethrazole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Non-limiting examples of inorganic sunscreens include nanopigments (with an average primary particle size: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), or aggregates, coated or uncoated with metal oxides, such as, for example, titanium dioxide nanopigments (amorphous or crystalline in the form of rutile and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium oxides, and mixtures thereof. Coating agents also include alumina and / or aluminum stearate and silicones.

[0104] Anti-wrinkle and anti-atrophy active agents

[0105] The pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions of this disclosure may optionally include one or more anti-wrinkle or anti-atrophy active agents. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-atrophy active ingredients include proxylane, amino acids, N-acetyl derivatives of amino acids (e.g., N-acetylcysteine), hydroxy acids (e.g., alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, or beta hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, such as octanylic acid and lactobionic acid), keto acids (e.g., pyruvic acid), hydrochloric acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), retinoids (e.g., retinoic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, retinol, retinylaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, and other retinoid derivatives), kinetin (N6-furfuriladenine), zeatin, and their derivatives, for examplefurunyrenifenyrenifenyrnidophenide, niacinamide (nicotinamide); growth factors and cytokines (e.g., TGF-beta 1, 2 and 3, ERF, FRF-2, TGF, IL-1, IL-6, IL-8, IGF-1, IGF-2, etc.), cell lysates (e.g., dermal fibroblast cell lysate, stem cell lysate, skin-treated proteins (PSP®), etc.), conditioned culture medium (e.g., conditioned culture medium from dermal fibroblasts, conditioned culture medium from stem cells (e.g., epidermal stem cells, adipose tissue stem cells, mesenchymal stem cells, etc.)); cosmetic products sold under the trade names Nouricel-MD, ®, TNS® or CCM™ Complex; etc.); cell extracts, stem cell extracts, stem cell components; ingredients stimulating the epidermis or other adult stem cells; skin revitalizing agents, stilbenes, cinnamates, sirtuin 1 activating ingredients (e.g., resveratrol); ingredients enhancing mitochondrial function; dimethylaminoethanol, synthetic anti-aging peptides, peptides from natural sources (e.g., soy peptides) and sugar salts (e.g., Mn gluconate, Zn gluconate), lipoic acid; lysophosphatidylic acid, vitamin B3 compounds and other vitamin B compounds (e.g., thiamine (vitamin B1), pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), riboflavin (vitamin B2)) and their derivatives and salts (e.g., HCl or calcium salts).

[0106] The total quantity of anti-wrinkle and / or anti-atrophy active agents in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions will vary. However, in some embodiments, the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions include from about 0.0001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% of one or more anti-wrinkle and / or anti-atrophy active agents by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Wetting agents, humectants and revitalizing agents

[0108] The pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally include an effective amount of a wetting agent, moisturizer, and / or skin-conditioning agent. The total amount of one or more wetting agents, humectants, and conditioners, as appropriate, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions include from about 0.01% to about 80%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 25%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of one or more wetting agents, humectants, and / or conditioners, relative to the total weight of the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition.

[0109] Wetting agents are ingredients that help maintain moisture levels in the skin. Non-limiting examples of wetting agents include polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of polyols include the polyhydroxy alcohols listed above and glycerol, hexylene glycol, glucose ethoxylate, 1,2-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, trehalose, diglycerin, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondrophosphate gum, sodium nitrophosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof. Water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful in this application include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, whose molecular weight is up to about 1,000, such as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, named in accordance with the Association for Perfumes and Cosmetics and Fragrances (CTFA) PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and their mixtures.Additional wetting agents include acetylarginine, seaweed extract, aloe barbaden leaf extract, 2,3-butanediol, chitosan lauroylglycinate, diglyceryl-7 malate, diglycerol, diglycol guanidine succinate, erythritol, fructose, glycosylated glucose hydrochloride, glycosylated glucose hydrochloride, glycosylated glucose hydrochloride, inositol, lactitol, maltitol, maltose, mannitol, mannose, methoxypolyethylene glycol, myristamidobutyl guanidine acetate, polyglyceryl sorbitol, potassium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), sorbitol, sucrose, dextran.

[0110] Non-limiting examples of revitalizing agents include guanidine, urea, glycolic acid, glycolates (e.g., quaternary ammonium and alkylammonium), salicylic acid, lactic acid, lactates (e.g., quaternary ammonium and alkylammonium), aloe vera in any of its various forms (e.g., aloe vera gel), polyhydroxy alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, hexanetriol, butanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, etc., polyethylene glycols, alternatives to propoxylated glycols, sugars (e.g., melibioses), starches, sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., alkoxylated glucose, fructose, glucosamine), Ci-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials, hyaluronic acid, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide monoanthenol, acetamide monoanthenol allantoin, and mixtures thereof.Skin revitalizing agents may also include fatty acids, fatty acid esters, lipids, ceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, beeswax, petroleum jelly, and mineral oil. Emollients

[0111] One or more emollients may also optionally be included in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition described herein. An emollient generally refers to an ingredient that can help maintain a soft, smooth, and supple appearance of the skin. Emollients usually remain on the skin's surface or in the stratum corneum and act as a moisturizer or lubricant and reduce destratification. Non-limiting examples of emollients include acetyllarginine, acetylated lanolin, seaweed extract, polyethylene glycol-6 esters from apricot kernel oil, polyethylene glycol-11 esters from avocado oil, bis-polyethylene glycol-4 dimethicone, butoxyethyl stearate, and esters glycol, alkyl glycol esters, cetyl laurate, coco polyethylene glycol-10 esters, alkyl tartrates, diethyl sebacate, dihydrocholesteryl butyrate, dimethiconol, dimyristyle tartrate, 5-lauroyl distearate, etilavokadate, ethylhexyl myristate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl oleate, geksildetsilstearate, geksilizostearate, hydrogenated palm glycerides, hydrogenated soybean glycerides, hydrogenated fat glycerides, isostearylneopentanoate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearylsilizononanoate, laureth-2 acetate, lauryl polyglyceryl-6 cetearyl glycol ether, methylglycine benzoate-20, mineral oil, palm oil, coconut oil, miret-3 palmitate, octyldecanol, octyldodecanol, odontella aurita oil, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecaniol, commercial PAL glycerides, avocado polyethylene glycols,Castor oil polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-2 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, shea butter glycerides polyethylene glycol, phytol, raffinose, stearyl citrate, sunflower seed oil glycerides, non-ointment, small tocopherol glucoside. Antioxidants and free radical scavengers

[0112] The pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally include one or more antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers. For example, the compositions may include from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% of one or more antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Non-limiting examples of antioxidants and free radical scavengers include falcata bark extract, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, fatty acid ascorbyl esters and other ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate, ascorbyl tetrabeplite, tetra ascorbyl tetrabal and ascorbyl tetraxalde, etc.), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, beta-carotene, butylated hydroxybenzoic acids and their salts, ferulic acid, peroxides, including hydrogen peroxide, perborate, thioglycolates, persulfate salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available as Trolox™), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, in particular propyl gallate, uric acid and its alkyl salts and esters, amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, aminoguanidine), nordihydroguayaretic acid, bioflavonoids, sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., glutathione), dihydroxyfumaric acid and its salts, silymarin, lysine ligninphenolate, lysine, 1-methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, sorbic acids and their salts, lipoic acid, olive extracts, tea extracts, respheratrol, polyphenols such as. Bunge's proanthrocyanidins, carotenoids, curcumin compounds such as tetrahydrocurcumin, coenzyme Q10 (L-2-oxo-4-thiazolidinecarboxylic acid), selenium, creatine, glutathione, N-acetylcysteine, N-acetylcystesteine ​​esters, dimethyl methoxychromanol, lipoic acid, melanin; plant extracts containing polyphenols, including but not limited to coffee bean extracts, green tea extracts, rosemary extracts, witch hazel extracts, and grape skin / seed extracts, may be used. Preferred antioxidants / free radical scavengers may be chosen from ascorbic acid esters, tocopherol, ferulic acid, polyphenols, creatine, and their derivatives; as well as plant extracts containing polyphenols, such as green tea extract. Suspense agents

[0114] The pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally include one or more suspending agents, preferably in a concentration effective for suspending water-insoluble material dispersed in the compositions or for modifying the viscosity of the composition. These concentrations will vary. However, in some embodiments, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic composition includes from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 5.0% of one or more suspending agents, by weight of the total composition. Non-limiting examples include vinyl polymers, such as crosslinked acrylic acid polymers, known as carbomer, cellulose derivatives, and modified cellulose polymers such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, and polyvinylpyrrolidone.polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, gum arabic, galactan, locust bean gum, pectin, agar, starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), algal colloids (algal extract), microbiological polymers such as dextran, succinoglycan, pullulan, starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch, methyl starch, alginic acid polymers such as sodium alginate, propylene glycol esters of alginic acid, acrylate polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine, and water-soluble inorganic materials such as bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, laponite, hectonite, and anhydrous silicic acid.

[0115] Other optional suspending agents include crystalline suspending agents that can be resolved into acyl derivatives, long-chain amine oxides, long-chain acyl derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Preferred suspending agents include fatty acid ethylene glycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, and fatty acid esters. Long-chain fatty acids (e.g., stearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, etc.); long-chain esters of long-chain alkanolamides (e.g., stearamide distearate diethanolamide, stearamide stearate monoethanolamide); and glyceryl esters (e.g., glyceryl distearate, trihydroxystearine, tribhengen). Other suitable suspending agents include primary amines containing one fatty alkyl fragment with at least about 16 carbon atoms, examples of which include palmitamine or stearamine, and secondary amines containing two fatty alkyl fragments, each with at least about 12 carbon atoms, examples of which include dipalmitoylamine or di(hydrogenated)amine. Other suitable suspending agents include phthalic acid diamide (hydrogenated grease) and a crosslinked maleic anhydride / methyl vinyl ether copolymer. Emulsifying agents

[0116] Non-limiting examples of emulsifying agents include condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids (i.e. fatty acid alkylene oxide esters), condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2 moles of fatty acids (i.e. fatty acid alkylene oxide diesters), condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (i.e. fatty alcohol alkylene oxide esters), condensation products of alkylene oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. where a portion of the alkylene polyoxide is esterified at one end with a fatty acid and esterified (i.e., via an ether bond) at the other end with a fatty alcohol].Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants derived from said alkylene oxide include cetet-6, cetet-10, cetet-12, cetetaret-6, cetetaret-10, cetetaret-12, stearet-6, stearet-10, stearet-12, stearet-21, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, tallowate of PEG-200 glyceryl, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof. Other applicable nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxyamide fatty acid surfactants. A particularly preferred surfactant corresponding to the above structure is coco alkylamide N-methylglucoside.Preferred nonionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of stearet-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, stearet-100, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in this application include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acid esters, C1-C30 fatty alcohols, and alkoxylated C1-C30 ester derivatives. C1-C30 fatty alcohol fatty acids, alkoxylated C1-C30 fatty alcohol esters, polyglyceryl C1-C30 fatty acid esters, C1-C30 polyol esters, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of these emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soy sterol, stearet-20, cetearet-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, cetet-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan triolcat (polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-100 and their PEG-100.Another group of useful nonionic surfactants here is a mixture of fatty acid esters based on a mixture of sorbitan or a fatty acid ester of sorbitol and a fatty acid ester of sucrose, where the fatty acid in each example is preferably C8-C24, more preferably C10-C20. Thickeners

[0117] Thickeners suitable for inclusion in pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions are described here.Non-limiting examples include acrylamide copolymer, agarose, amylopectin, bentonite, calcium alginate, calcium carboxymethylcellulose, carbomer, carboxymethylchitin, cellulose gum, dextrin, gelatin, hydroxymethyl hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethyl hydroxypropyl, magnesium alginate, methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, pectin, various polyethylene glycols, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polyvinyl alcohol, various isopropylene glycols, and copolymers. sodium acrylates, sodium carrageenan, xanthan gum and / or yeast beta-glucan, or mixtures thereof.

[0118] More generally, carboxylic acid polymers are useful thickeners. Carboxylic acid polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of said acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful here include carbomers, which are Acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with sucrose or pentaerythritol allyl ethers. Carbomers are available in BF Goodrich's Carbopol® 900 range (e.g., Carbopol® 954). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid-based polymeric agents include C10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymers with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or esters of one of its short chains (i.e., a Cl-4 alcohol), the crosslinking agent being sucrose or pentaerythritol allyl ether. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available under the names Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2. Goodrich.Examples of preferred carboxylic acid polymer-based thickeners useful in this application include thickeners selected from carbomers, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Furthermore, according to certain embodiments, the thickeners are selected from polysaccharides. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide thickeners include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, sodium methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxyethyl methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful.In these polymers, the hydroxyl groups of the cellulosic polymer are hydroxylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form hydroxylated cellulose, which is then further modified with a straight-chain or branched C10-30 alkyl group via an ether bond. Typically, these polymers are straight-chain or branched-chain esters of C10-30 alcohols and hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Examples of alkyl groups applicable in this application include groups selected from stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyle, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (e.g., an alkyl group derived from coconut oil alcohols), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, retinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof.A preferred alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ester is a material called cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is an ester of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethyl cellulose, according to the Perfume and Cosmetics and Perfume Association (CTFA). The material listed is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation (Wilmington, Delaware). Other examples can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook and the Cosmetic Bench Reference. Directory of Cosmetic Ingredients, offered by the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) and the National Formulary (NF), and other references to cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients known in the art. Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans, which are a linear chain of (1 to 3) linked (1 to 6) glucose motifs, where one out of every three glucose motifs is linked, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel™ CS 11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, New Jersey).

[0120] Other useful thickeners include those derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples include acacia gum, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum hydrochloride, gydrohydrochloride, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silicon dioxide, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl gum, karaya gum, kelp, fruit tree resin, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and / or mixtures thereof.

[0121] In addition, the compositions may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, in particular nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Other polyacrylamide polymers useful here include acrylamides and acrylic acid-substituted acrylamides multiblock copolymers and substituted acrylic acids. Antihistamines

[0122] Antihistamines, also called histamine antagonists, are substances that inhibit the action of histamine by blocking its binding to histamine receptors or by inhibiting the enzymatic activity of histidine decarboxylase, which catalyzes the conversion of histidine to histamine and the like.Non-limiting examples of antihistamines are acrivastine, azelastine, brompheniramine, buclizine, bromodiphenhydramine, carbinoxamine, cetirizine, chlorpromazine, cyclizine, chlorpheniramine, chlordiphenhydramine, cimetidine, clemastine, cyproheptadine, desloratine, dimenden nizatidine, olopadadine, orphenadrine, phenindamine, pheniramine, phenyltoloxamine, promethzine, pyrilamine, quetiapine, ranitidine, roxatidine, rupatadine, tripelennamine and triprolidine. EXAMPLES

[0123] Various changes can be made to the compositions and processes described above without departing from the scope of the invention. Accordingly, it is intended that any disclosure contained in the above description and in the examples given below should be interpreted in an illustrative and not limiting sense. Example 1 Reduction of inflammatory cytokines

[0124] Adult human dermal fibroblasts (lot 2485, passage 5, cell applications) were grown and seeded in a 48-well plate at a density of 5,000 cells / well. The cells were cultured in Eagle Minimal Essential Medium (EMEM), supplemented with fetal bovine serum (FBS) and penicillin-streptomycin. The cells were fixed overnight, and then the culture medium was aspirated and replaced with a medium containing either 100 µM or 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II, or peptide III. The cells were cultured for 4 days with treatment, with the treatment medium being renewed every two days except on weekends. The media were collected at the end of the culture period. Inflammatory cytokines were quantified using a LEGENDplex Human Inflammation Panel 1 13-plex (catalog no. 740809, Biolegend.The protein in the medium supernatant was also quantified using the Pierce BCA Protein Assay Kit (ThermoFisher catalog no. 23225). Microsoft Excel and GraphPad Prism were used for further data analysis and presentation. The amounts of interleukin 6 (IL-6) and interleukin 8 (IL-8) released from adult human skin fibroblasts are shown below in Table 1 and schematically represented graphically in Figure 1(a) (for IL-6) and Figure 1(b) (for IL-8).

[0125] [Tables 1] Table 1 Peptide Concentration Pg IL-6 / pg protein Pg IL-8 / pg protein Aged Control 292.81 + 76.91 55.69 + 24.27 Peptide I 154.52 + 32.33 154.52 + 32.33 22.72 + 6.45 Peptide I 126.97 + 29.10 126.97 + 29.10 42.71 + 11.29 Peptide II 265.86 + 58.08 265.86 + 58.08 20.36 + 5.39 Peptide II 257.53 + 38.82 257.53 + 38.82 35.68 + 11.37 Peptide III 291.73 + 61.03 291.73 + 61.03 31.14 + 22.26 Peptide III 333.61 + 38.37 333.61 + 38.37 32.58 + 4.06 Example 2 Increased growth factor

[0126] Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) (EPISKIN / S / 13, Episkin) was received and samples were prepared for use. Upon arrival, the inserts containing the RHE were removed from the multiplate and placed in a 12-well plate containing maintenance medium. The untreated control tissues were placed in regular maintenance medium; the treatment groups were placed in maintenance medium containing 250 µM of peptide I, II, or III alone or in combination. The medium was aspirated and replaced every two days, except on weekends. The RHE was cultured at the air-liquid interface at 37°C, 5% CO2, and saturated humidity for 7 days. The media were collected at the end of the culture period. Growth factors were quantified using a LEGENDplex Human Growth Factor Panel (catalog no. 740809, Biolegend.The protein in the medium supernatant was also quantified using the Pierce BCA Protein Assay Kit (ThermoFisher catalog no. 741061). Microsoft Excel and GraphPad Prism were used for further data analysis and presentation. The amounts of epidermal growth factor (EGF), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), and transforming growth factor alpha (TGFa) generated by RHE are shown below in Table 2 and graphically in Figure 2(a) (for EGF), Figure 2(b) (for HGF), and Figure 2(c) (for TGFa).

[0127] [Tables2] Table 2 Peptide Concentration EGF / pg of protein HGF / pg of protein TGFα / pg of protein Control 1.00 + 0.23 1.00 + 0.09 1.00 + 0.29 Peptide I 250 pM 1.58 + 0.17 0.98 + 0.20 1.37 + 0.23 Peptide II 250 pM 1.23 + 0.16 1.28 + 0.25 1.56 + 0.29 Peptide III 250 pM 1.79 + 0.28 1.01 + 0.17 1.93 + 0.60 Peptides I+II (1:1) 250 pM 1.49 + 0.31 1.40 + 0.25 1.62 + 0.47 Peptides I+III (1:1) 250 pM 1.59 + 0.21 1.16 + 0.18 1.04 + 0.39 Peptides II+III (1:1) 250 pM 1.36 + 0.16 1.26 + 0.09 1.92 + 0.94 Peptides I+II+III (1:1:1) 250 pM 1.92 + 0.16 1.21 + 0.33 2.21+0.88 Example 3 Increased epidermal stem cells

[0128] Keratinocyte stem cells (batch KSC870, passage 2, Bioalternatives) were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in keratinocyte-SFM supplemented with epidermal growth factor and pituitary extract. After 4 hours, the medium was replaced with that containing either peptide II or peptide III, alone or in combination. The cells were incubated for 96 hours, with the treatment repeated after 24 hours. After 96 hours, the medium was removed, and the cells were fixed with methanol at -20°C. The cells were then stained for 10 minutes with Papanicolaou's solution and imaged. The number of holoclone clones was counted. The data were analyzed and plotted using GraphPad Prism.The holocolone count relative to the (normalized) control is shown below in Table 3 for different concentrations of peptide II, peptide III, and combinations of peptide II and peptide III. The results are shown graphically in [Fig. 3].

[0129] [Tables3] Table 3 Peptide Concentration Holoclone Count in Control (Normalized) Control 24.80 + 6.14 Peptide II 0.2 mM 27.60 + 7.59 Peptide II 0.4 mM 34.30 + 8.85 Peptide III 0.2 mM 27.40 + 6.13 Peptide III 0.4 mM 36.50 + 5.97 Peptides II+III (1:1) 0.2 mM 32.30 + 6.82 Peptides II+III (4:1) Peptide II at 0.4 mM Peptide III at 0.1 mM 27.40 + 5.85 Peptides II+III (2:1) Peptide II at 0.4 mM Peptide III at 0.2 mM 25.20 + 5.05 Example 4 Induced autophagy in aged fibroblasts

[0130] Adult human dermal fibroblasts (lot 2485, passage 5, Cellular Applications) were grown and seeded in a glass-bottomed plate at Twelve wells were cultured at a density of 10,000 cells / well in Eagle Minimal Essential Medium (EMEM), supplemented with fetal bovine serum (FBS) and penicillin-streptomycin. Cells were fixed overnight, and the culture medium was aspirated and replaced with medium containing either 100 µM or 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II, or peptide III. Cells were cultured for 7 days with treatment, with the treatment medium being changed every two days except on weekends. On day 7, cells were stained and analyzed by imaging for the presence of autophagic vacuoles according to the protocol of the autophagy assay kit (abl39484, Abcam). Images were compared to determine whether the number of autophagic vacuoles was increasing, decreasing, or remained unchanged.The results are reported below, in Table 4, where "î" indicates an increase, "J," indicates a decrease and "++" indicates no change.

[0131] [Tables4] Table 4 Peptide Concentration Presence of autophagic vacuoles (compared to the control) Control n / a Peptide I 100 pM î Peptide I 250 pM î Peptide II 100 pM î Peptide II 250 pM î Peptide III 100 pM î Peptide III 250 pM Example 5

[0132] Enhanced mitochondrial function in aged fibroblasts

[0133] Adult human dermal fibroblasts (lot 2485, passage 5, cell applications) were grown and seeded in a 12-well glass-bottom plate at a density of 10,000 cells / well. The cells were cultured in Eagle's Minimal Essential Medium (EMEM), supplemented with fetal bovine serum (FBS) and penicillin-streptomycin. The cells were fixed overnight, and then the culture medium was aspirated and replaced with a medium containing either 100 µM or 250 µM of peptide I, peptide II, or peptide III. The cells were cultured for 7 days with treatment, with the treatment medium being changed every two days except on weekends. On day 7, the cells were stained with ester Tetramethylrhodamine (TMRE) ethyl and mitochondrial activity were imaged according to the protocol of the necessary TMRE-Mitochondrial Membrane Potential Assay (abl 13852, Abcam). Active mitochondria (mean intensity normalized to control) were determined and are shown below in Table 5. The results are shown graphically in [Fig. 4].

[0134] [Tables5] Table 5 Peptide Concentration Active Mitochondria (Mean Intensity Normalized to Control) Control 1.00 + 0.15 Peptide I 250 pM 1.158 + 0.17 Peptide II 250 pM 1.00 + 0.19 Peptide III 250 pM 0.97 + 0.15 Peptides I+II (1:1) 250 pM 1.45 + 0.26 Peptides I+III (1:1) 250 pM 1.26 + 0.21 Peptides II+III (1:1) 250 pM 1.21 + 0.23 Peptides I+11+111 (1:1:1) 250 pM 0.95 + 0.22 Example 6 Facial treatment

[0135] An example of a facial treatment containing about 0.01 to about 1% by weight of peptide I, peptide II, peptide III, or combinations thereof, is shown below.

[0136] [Tableauxô] Table 6 INGREDIENTS % by weight PEPTIDE I, II, III OR THEIR COMBINATIONS 0.01 - 2 METHYLPARABEN 0.3 2-PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.8 XANTHAN GUM 0.2 WATER / AQUA 98.2

[0137] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal counterion, an alkali- metal counterion earthy or ammonium. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. The appropriate counterions for the components described here are known in art.

Claims

Demands

1. One, two, three or more bioactive nut peptides or a composition comprising one or more bioactive nut peptides, for use in the topical treatment of the skin to: - improve skin barrier function or skin re-epithelialization; and / or - treat damaged skin, preferably in which the damaged skin has been damaged by physical damage, chemical damage, environmental damage, solar damage, damage caused by disease, or combinations thereof; and / or - improve wound healing of damaged skin, in which the damage is caused by an ablative laser procedure, a non-ablative laser procedure, a microneedling procedure, a cryotherapy procedure, a radiofrequency microneedling procedure, dermabrasion, chemical peeling, exfoliation, or a mechanical device that damages the skin;and / or - improves the skin barrier function on healthy, intact skin; and / or - treats dry and / or itchy skin; and / or - potentiates terminal differentiation and keratinization of skin cells; and / or - potentiates ceramide synthesis (ACER1); and / or - facilitates terminal differentiation (involucrin (IVL), Loricrin (Lor) or Transglutaminase 1 (TGM1)); and / or - increases keratinization (KRT); and / or - promotes the formation of the late stratum corneum (LCE); and / or - increases the abundance or synthesis of small proline-rich proteins (SPRR).

2. Peptide or composition according to claim 1, used for the treatment of a skin condition, disease or disorder selected from psoriasis, dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, allergic dermatitis, eczema, spongiosis, edema, hereditary ichthyosis, senile xerosis, palmar hyperkeratosis, plantar hyperkeratosis, cuts, bruises, pore size, skin cancer, wound healing or re-epithelialization disorders, keloids, scars hypertrophic, cellulite, orange peel skin, elastosis, actinic elastosis, keratosis, rosacea, telangiectasia, couperose, or combinations thereof.

3. Peptide or composition according to claim 1, wherein the skin is inflamed or suffers from an inflammatory condition, preferably wherein the inflammatory condition is selected from atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, or a combination thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more walnut peptides are combined with one or more additional skin-active agents, preferably wherein the one or more additional skin-active agents are selected from anti-atrophic agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents, or combinations thereof, and more preferably wherein the one or more additional skin-active agents are selected from ceramides, alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, niacinamide, caffeine, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or combinations thereof;and more preferably, wherein the one or more additional active skin agents include one or more ceramides, preferably wherein the one or more ceramides are selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or combinations thereof.;

5. Peptide or composition according to any one of the above claims, wherein one, two, three or more bioactive nut peptides have a molecular weight of less than 5,000 Da, preferably less than 2,000 Da, more preferably less than 1,000 Da and / or wherein one or more bioactive nut peptides have 2 to 20 amino acid residues, preferably 3 to 15 amino acid residues, more preferably 4 to about 10 amino acid residues; and / or wherein one or more bioactive nut peptides include one or more amino acids selected from leucine, proline and combinations thereof, preferably wherein one or more bioactive nut peptides include three or more amino acids selected from leucine, proline or combinations thereof.

6. Peptide or composition according to any one of the above claims, wherein the one, two, three or more bioactive nut peptides comprise an amino acid sequence selected from Leu-Pro-Leu, Leu-Leu-Pro, Pro-Pro-Leu or Pro-Leu-Pro; and / or Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys or Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr; preferably wherein the one, two, three or more bioactive nut peptides are selected from: Peptide I TWLPLPR (Thr-Trp-Leu-Pro-Leu-Pro-Arg), Peptide II YVLLPSPK (Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys), or Peptide III KVPPLLY (Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr), or a combination thereof.

7. Peptides or composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the topical application of the combination of two, three or more nut peptides provides a synergistic effect that is greater than the additive sum provided by the topical application of corresponding amounts of the individual bioactive nut peptides, preferably wherein the synergistic effect is at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 25% greater than the additive sum.

8. A pharmaceutical composition comprising one, two, three or more nut peptides according to any one of the above claims, wherein the pharmaceutical composition comprises: (a) a therapeutically effective amount of one or more bioactive nut peptides having a molecular weight of less than 5,000 Da, preferably less than 2,000 Da, more preferably less than 1,000 Da; wherein preferably the one or more bioactive nut peptides have 2 to 20 amino acid residues, preferably 3 to 15 amino acid residues, more preferably 5 to about 10 amino acid residues;even more preferably wherein the one or more bioactive nut peptides include one or more amino acids selected from leucine, proline and their combinations, preferably wherein the one, two, three or more bioactive nut peptides comprise an amino acid sequence selected from Leu-Pro-Leu, Leu-Leu-Pro, Pro-Pro-Leu, or Pro-Leu-Pro and / or Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Lys or Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr; even more preferably wherein the one, two, three or more bioactive nut peptides are selected from:;

9. Peptide I TWLPLPR (Thr-Trp-Leu-Pro-Leu-Pro-Arg), Peptide II YVLLPSPK (Tyr-Val-Leu-Leu-Pro-Ser-Pro-Lys), or Peptide III KVPPLLY (Lys-Val-Pro-Pro-Leu-Leu-Tyr), or a combination thereof; And (b) a physiologically acceptable carrier, wherein preferably the physiologically acceptable carrier comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water, oil, or combinations thereof. Pharmaceutical composition according to claim 8 comprising two or more nut peptides, wherein the two or more nut peptides include a first bioactive nut peptide and a second bioactive nut peptide, and the first bioactive nut peptide and the second bioactive nut peptide are in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:5 to about 5:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1, and even more preferably about 1:1;and / or the pharmaceutical composition comprises three or more bioactive nut peptides, preferably wherein the three or more bioactive nut peptides include a first bioactive nut peptide, a second bioactive nut peptide and a third bioactive nut peptide, wherein: (i) the first bioactive nut peptide and the second bioactive nut peptide are in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:5 to about 5:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1, still more preferably about 1:1; (ii) the first bioactive nut peptide and the third bioactive nut peptide are in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:5 to about 5:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1, even more preferably about 1:1; and (iii) the second bioactive nut peptide and the third bioactive nut peptide are in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:5 to about 5:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1, and even more preferably about 1:1.

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