Cosmetic composition comprising a cutaneous active agent

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising a cutaneous active agent is described. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a hydrophobic polymer formed as a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; (b) one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer; (c) one or more cutaneous active agents; (d) one or more surfactants; and (e) water. The composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. Processes for the manufacture and use of the cosmetic composition are also described. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a cutaneous active agent. SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprising a hydrophobic polymer and one or more skin-active agents. Manufacturing processes for the composition and skin-treatment processes are also disclosed. CONTEXT

[0002] The skin is a unique and complex organ that covers the entire body. It is essential for protecting the body from external threats, regulating body temperature, and preventing moisture loss. It also serves as a sensory organ and produces vitamin D. There are different types of skin in different parts of the body. For example, facial skin is different from scalp skin, and even the skin on the palm of the hand is different from the skin on the back of the hand.

[0003] The skin constitutes the integumentary system, which includes three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and the first line of defense against external threats, such as microbes. The human epidermis is primarily composed of keratinocytes containing other cell types, including melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its specific function, to the essential role played by the skin. Melanocytes give the skin its characteristic color and tone. The epidermis is essentially impermeable to water and therefore helps maintain hydration and prevents the body from absorbing water during bathing. Unlike other cells, epidermal cells have a unique ability to regenerate and can therefore heal after being injured.

[0004] The intermediate layer of skin that lies just beneath the epidermis is the dermis, which includes connective tissue, collagen, elastin, hair follicles, lymph nodes, and sweat glands. The dermis provides strong support to the epidermis. It is also its nourishing layer. The dermis mainly comprises fibroblasts, but leukocytes, mast cells, and tissue macrophages are also present. The dermis also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers. The acellular part (i.e., the area between the cells) of the dermis is called the extracellular matrix. The skin's extracellular matrix is ​​composed of various extracellular components, including proteins, particularly collagen fibers and elastin. Other components of the extracellular matrix of the skin include glycosaminoglycans (e.g., hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, heparan sulfate, etc.), proteoglycans (e.g., fibromodulin, decorin, biglycan, perlecan, heparan sulfate proteoglycan 2, agrin, versican, agrecan, lumican, type IX collagen, type XII collagen, type XIV collagen, testican 1, testican 2, etc.) and various glycoproteins (e.g., fibrillin 1, thrombospondins-1 and -2, tenascins-C and -X, osteopontin, fibronectin, laminins-5 and -6, vitronectin, etc.). These extracellular components are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts, making dermal fibroblasts the main constituent of the structural assembly of the dermis.

[0005] The extracellular matrix is ​​a highly heterogeneous amalgam of morphologically diverse architectural entities. It organizes and confers structural integrity to individual tissues, in addition to modulating cell behavior by interacting with cell surface receptors and soluble growth factors. Dysfunctions and alterations in extracellular matrix components can therefore interfere with both tissue integrity and cell performance. Dysfunctions and alterations in extracellular matrix components of human skin and mucous membranes can lead to skin aging, skin atrophy, skin lesions, skin wounds, and other problems.

[0006] The hypodermis is the deepest layer of the skin and is composed mainly of adipose and connective tissue. It connects the skin to the underlying fascia (tissue) of the bones and muscles. The hypodermis is not always classified as an official layer of the skin, but it nevertheless provides important functions such as energy storage, body insulation, and prevention of skin sagging. The hypodermis contains fat storage cells that act as energy reservoirs and cushion against impacts.

[0007] Over time, skin ages, which can lead to wrinkles, age spots, and a loss of elasticity and volume. Skin aging includes both chronological aging (endogenous aging), which is natural aging that occurs over time due to natural biological processes, and degenerative aging due to external influences, such as exposure to harmful sunlight, pollution, dehydration, etc. Ultraviolet rays, such as UVB, have a wavelength in the range of 280 nm to 320 nm and are known to damage the skin and accelerate aging. UVB rays stimulate reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals in skin cells, which accelerates the intracellular signaling system and induces oxidative stress on biomolecules, such as DNA, proteins, and lipids. Increased oxidative stress in skin cells can cause stimulation of epidermal keratinocytes or dermal fibroblasts and, through a series of intracellular signal transduction, the expression of genes such as matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), a collagen-degrading enzyme, can increase.

[0008] Numerous treatments are available for treating the skin. For example, the importance of collagen in the aging process has led to the development of many topical products containing collagen. Other components, such as retinoic acid, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid, are used in topical formulations to stimulate collagen synthesis. Certain cosmetic procedures, such as laser skin resurfacing, are used to reduce facial wrinkles and skin irregularities. The topical administration of proteins known to inhibit one or more signaling pathways that exhibit altered activity after UV exposure has been explored. However, there are difficulties associated with the use of whole proteins that cannot be efficiently delivered through the epidermis.Furthermore, large proteins can be unstable, difficult to formulate, and ineffective when applied topically. Despite the number of products and treatments that have been proposed, none of them satisfactorily stimulates the skin's intrinsic repair and regeneration mechanisms. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY

[0009] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water dispersions. The compositions effectively incorporate and deliver skin-active agents to the skin. This is achieved, at least in part, through the inclusion of a unique hydrophobic polymer, which is solubilized in an oil or oily phase. The hydrophobic polymer helps stabilize the dispersion, reduces the size of the oil droplets, and improves the penetration of the skin-active agents into the skin. Skin-active agents can be difficult to formulate in cosmetic compositions and deliver to the skin. For example, many skin-active agents suffer from solubility and stability problems. Even if skin-active agents are successfully formulated for stability, a stable formulation does not necessarily guarantee that the skin-active agents will penetrate the skin.However, the oil-in-water emulsions in this case are both stable and effective at delivering active skin agents deep into the skin.

[0010] Oil-in-water dispersions can become physically unstable due to causes such as creaming, sedimentation, flocculation, phase inversion, and coalescence. The tendency toward instability depends, at least in part, on droplet size, droplet distribution, and the quantity and type of emulsifiers. and the mutual solubility between the phases. Improved adsorption of the emulsifier leads to a reduction in interfacial tension, decreases the free energy of the interface, and thus promotes emulsification and emulsion stability. The inventors discovered that the unique hydrophobic polymers in these emulsions positively influence (reduce) interfacial tension and contribute to a robust and stable cosmetic composition that successfully incorporates and delivers large quantities of active skin agents.

[0011] The cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a. a hydrophobic polymer formed as a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; b. one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a); c. one or more cutaneous active agents; d. one or more surfactants; and e. of water.

[0012] The hydrophobic polymer is a single reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and an acrylate or methacrylate polymer. Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of a methacrylate polymer and a natural or food-grade oil. The natural or food-grade oil is preferably a drying or semi-drying oil. Non-limiting examples include linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, or combinations thereof. The methacrylate polymer can be formed from methacrylate monomers, for example, monomers selected from isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, and combinations thereof.In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic polymer is formed from a natural or food-grade oil and an isobutyl methacrylate polymer and may preferably be an isobutyl methacrylate polymer.

[0013] In various embodiments, the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of approximately 50 to approximately 85 parts by weight of natural or food-grade oil and approximately 15 to approximately 50 parts by weight of methacrylate or acrylate polymer. More specifically, the hydrophobic polymer may be the reaction product of approximately 72 to approximately 77 parts by weight of natural or food-grade oil and approximately 23 to approximately 28 parts by weight of a methacrylate polymer. For example, the hydrophobic polymer may be the reaction product of linseed oil and poly(isobutyl methacrylate) in a suitable solvent, such as, for example, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate. Preferably, the reaction product is formed from about 72 to about 77% of linseed oil and about 23 to about 28% of isobutyl methacrylate polymer in a suitable solvent, such as 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate.

[0014] One or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) are used to solubilize the hydrophobic polymer. A single solvent or a combination of solvents may be used, the combination of solvents being capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer. In various embodiments, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) according to the Hansen solubility parameters less than or equal to 13.4 MPa₀₅, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0015] CT"“ *2 (I) LJ Ra = ^D-Di) +(PP{)

[0016] in which • Di is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Ht is 13.0 MPa05.

[0017] Non-limiting examples of solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) include polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, castor oil, and mixtures thereof. Polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, and mixtures thereof are particularly useful.

[0018] Surfactants include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric (zwitterionic) surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure include one or more anionic surfactants and, optionally, one or more nonionic surfactants. In addition, one or more of the surfactants may preferably be a biosurfactant.

[0019] Non-limiting examples of biosurfactants include glycolipids (e.g., sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and trehalose lipids), lipopeptides (e.g., surfactin, iturine, fengycin, arthrofactin, and lichenysin), flavolipids, phospholipids (e.g., cardiolipins), fatty acid ester compounds, fatty acid ether compounds, and high molecular weight polymers such as lipoproteins, lipopolysaccharide-protein complexes, and polysaccharide-protein-fatty acid complexes. Preferably, at least one of the biosurfactants is a glycolipid. Non-limiting examples of glycolipids include sophorolipids, Rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and their combinations. Rhamnolipids are particularly preferred.

[0020] Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include sulfate-based surfactants, glutamate-type surfactants, acyl taurates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ethercarboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure include one or more acyl taurate-type surfactants.

[0021] A wide variety of skin-active agents can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions due in part to their remarkable stability and versatility. For example, the oil phase of the cosmetic composition may include one or more lipophilic skin-active agents. The aqueous phase may include one or more hydrophilic skin-active agents. Non-limiting examples of useful skin-active agents include ceramides, ceramide precursors, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, beta-glucan, carob seed extract, Eperua falcata extract, amino acids, niacinamide and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, allantoin, omega fatty acids, vitamins, vitamin precursors, retinoids such as retinol, retinoic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, or mixtures thereof.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more ceramides, for example, one or more ceramides selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS and ceramide EOdS, protein-bound ceramides, phytosphingosine, sphingosine, ceramide precursors, or combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes ceramide-EOP, ceramide-NP, ceramide-EP, or mixtures thereof.

[0023] The disclosure further relates to methods of incorporating a cutaneous active agent into cosmetic compositions, methods of stabilizing compositions comprising cutaneous active agents, methods of delivering one or more cutaneous active agents into the skin and methods of treating the skin with cosmetic compositions. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

[0024] An implementation of this technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figure, in which:

[0025] [Fig.1] [Fig.1] represents a cryogenic scanning electron microscopy of a droplet containing cutaneous active agents (ceramides) dispersed in an oil-in-water dispersion of the invention.

[0026] It is understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality represented in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0027] Cosmetic compositions are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions that stably incorporate and deliver cutaneous active agents, in large quantities, to the skin. Methods for preparing and using cosmetic compositions, including skin treatment methods, are also described. Cosmetic compositions are remarkably versatile, robust, and effective. The compositions typically include: a. a hydrophobic polymer which is a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; b. one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a); c. one or more cutaneous active agents; d. one or more surfactants; and e. of water;

[0028] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water dispersion.

[0029] The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more additional components, for example water-soluble solvents, thickening agents, film-forming polymers, miscellaneous ingredients (for example, vitamins, antioxidants, etc.), cholesterol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, botanical extracts or mixtures thereof. a. Hydrophobic polymer #

[0030] The hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil (oily component) and an acrylate component. In particular, the natural or food-grade oil may be a drying oil, preferably linseed oil. The reaction product may include an isobutyl methacrylate backbone with a plurality of linseed oil side chains. Preferably, the reaction product is a product sold under the MYCELX® brand by MYCELX Technologies Corporation of Gainesville, Georgia. See US Patent No. 5,698,139 for a description of the MYCELX substances.

[0031] The hydrophobic polymer is composed of an oily component and a polymer component, generally having reacted in a solvent. In one embodiment preferred, the hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of linseed oil and poly(isobutyl methacrylate), having reacted in a solvent, such as 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate as solvent.

[0032] The oily component is derived from glycerin and carboxylic acids, such as a fatty acid from linseed, to form monoglycerides, diglycerides, and triglycerides. The oily component is preferably of vegetable or natural origin. Vegetable oils are obtained by cold-pressing the seeds of a plant to extract the oil they contain. Among vegetable oils, drying oils such as linseed and tung oil, semi-drying oils such as soybean and cottonseed oil, and non-drying oils such as coconut oil can be used as the oily component. The oily component typically forms about 72% to 77%, or most preferably 74.62%, of the hydrophobic polymer (e.g., linseed oil / isobutyl methacrylate).

[0033] The polymer component may be derived from α- and β-unsaturated carbonyl compounds. The polymer component is the resulting product of a monomer that is an ester of acrylic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, methacrylic acid, sorbic acid, cinnamic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, and methylmethacrylic acid. Non-limiting examples of useful polymers that cover any number of reaction possibilities between the esters of these compounds include acrylate polymers, methyl methacrylate polymers, methyl / n-butyl methacrylate polymers, methacrylate copolymers, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, n-butyl / isobutyl methacrylate copolymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0034] The hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product generally formed in a liquid solvent capable of dissolving or diluting the polymer component (poly(oil / polymer)) and the hydrophobic polymer. The solvent or diluent shall generally comprise any liquid or mixture of liquids capable of dissolving or diluting a hydrophobic polymer product. The solvent / diluent may regulate the evaporation, the desired flow rate, and the coalescence of the hydrophobic polymer. The solvent may be, for example, an aliphatic hydrocarbon, an aromatic hydrocarbon, alcohols, ketones, ethers, aldehydes, phenols, carboxylic acids, carboxylates, synthetic chemicals, and substances of natural origin. Preferably, the solvent is 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate. The hydrophobic polymers according to this disclosure and the processes for manufacturing them are described, for example, in US patents.Nos. 5,437,793, 5,698,139, 5,837,146, 5,961,823, 6,180,010, 6,475,393 and 6,805,727. The preferred hydrophobic polymer may be designated as a poly(linseed oil / isobutyl methacrylate).

[0035] The amount of hydrophobic polymer in the cosmetic composition varies, but can be from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of hydrophobic polymer in the cosmetic composition is approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Solvent capable of solubilizing (a)#

[0036] The oily phase of the emulsion includes the hydrophobic polymer of (a) dissolved in one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer. The one or more solvents may include one or more solvents used to generate or solubilize the hydrophobic polymer, for example, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol monoisobutyrate. The one or more solvents may be a single solvent or a plurality of solvents. For example, in various embodiments, the solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa⁰.⁵ according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0037] Ra = + (P - P^ + (H - h / ®

[0038] in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa05.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more solvents have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), a hydrogen bonding component (H) and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0040] Ra = + (P - Pj2 + (H - ®

[0041] in which • Di is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pi is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • Hx is 11.7 MPa0'5.

[0042] The solvent may be an oil. The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The solvent may be a non-silicone oil (for example, an oil that does not contain silicon atoms and, in particular, does not contain Si-O groups). Non-limiting examples of one or more solvents include caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, polycitronellol acetate, isododecane, and mixtures thereof. Solvents may include acetone. Solvents may include oleic acid. Solvents may include an oil containing oleic acid (such as a vegetable oil). Table 1 below shows the values ​​of D, P and H, as well as Ra for the permissible and preferred ranges, for several solvents.

[0043] [Tables 1] Table 1 Solvent (b) DPH Ra (Permissible Range) Ra (Preferred Range) Ethanol 15.8 8.8 19.4 7.81 8.67 Octyldodecanol 16.1 2.2 7.4 6.33 5.17 Isopropyl Myristate 15.9 2.1 2.8 10.70 9.41 Isopropyl Alcohol 15.8 6.1 6.4 7.02 5.54 Phenoxyethanol 17.8 5.7 14.3 2.55 3.88 CCTG 18.22 5.39 14.74 3.38 4.76 Castor Oil 15.9 4.6 12 2.07 1.12 Polycitronellol Acetate 16.4 3 4.2 9.02 7.76 Acetone 15.5 10.4 7 8.61 7.38 Oleic acid 16 2.8 6.2 7.27 5.98

[0044] In some embodiments, if oleic acid is used, at least some of the oleic acid may be supplied by a vegetable oil. The vegetable oil may be a seed or nut oil. The vegetable oil may have an oleic acid content of at least 20% by weight of the vegetable oil. The vegetable oil may include Sunflower oil, soybean oil, macadamia nut oil and / or avocado oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include macadamia nut oil and may be free from, or substantially free from, other vegetable oils.

[0045] For the purposes of this disclosure, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) may not individually solubilize the hydrophobic polymer, but when combined with other solvents, the combination solubilizes the hydrophobic polymer. Thus, when reference is made to a total quantity of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer, the inclusion of all solvents that solubilize the hydrophobic polymer in combination is envisaged, even if one or more solvents in the combination do not individually solubilize the hydrophobic polymer.

[0046] Non-limiting examples of solvents useful for solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a), individually or in combination with other solvents, include polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, castor oil, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, at least one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) are selected from caprylic / capric triglyceride, polycitronellol acetate, isododecane, and mixtures thereof. In another preferred embodiment, at least one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is polycitronellol acetate.

[0047] Non-limiting solvents which, individually or in combination with other solvents, are useful for solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) include dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, isodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, oleyl erucate, passionflower oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides mixed, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, a 3-ester,5,5-trimethyl, cetostearyl octanoate, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecyl myristate, butylloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, , jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, calendula oil, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, a Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate, diglyceryl caprylic / capric succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isonoanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyldimethicone, a coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, a dialkyl tartrate C12-13, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate,octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyltrimethicone, a polydecene, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, stearyl heptanoate, tricaprylin, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearine, or combinations thereof.

[0048] Additional useful solvents include vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and the caprylyl glycol; synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for example purcelline oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate;hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, sold in particular under the trade name Eldew SL 205 by the Ajinomoto company; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil, or mixtures; n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) sold under the reference Cetiol UT by the company Cognis; fluorinated oils that are partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, for example those described in document JP-A-2 295 912; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, that are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;phenylsilicones, for example phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.

[0049] Other specific examples of solvents include cocoglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicapryl maleate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, avocado oil, aloe extracts, jojoba oil, castor oil, fatty acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C9-C15 alcohols, isononyl isononanoate, the alkanes, a mineral oil, a silicone, a dimethylpolysiloxane, an ether, a polyoxypropylene butyl ether, a polyoxypropylene cetylether, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, an aryl alkyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, or mixtures thereof.

[0050] The total amount of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) in the cosmetic composition will vary. In some cases, the oil phase of oil-in-water emulsions is primarily composed of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer. For example, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) may be present in amounts from approximately 10 to approximately 70% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the total quantity of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer may be in amounts of about 10 to about 60% by weight, about 10 to about 50% by weight, about 10 to about 40% by weight, about 10 to about 30% by weight, about 20 to about 70% by weight, about 20 to about 60% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 20 to about 40% by weight, about 30 to about 70% by weight, about 30 to about 60% by weight, about 30 to about 50% by weight. weight, approximately 30 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 40 to approximately 70% by weight, approximately 40 to approximately 60% by weight, or approximately 40 to approximately 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0051] Oil-in-water emulsions forming the cosmetic composition do not require a large quantity of an oil phase, which is dispersed in droplets throughout the aqueous phase. Thus, in various embodiments, the cosmetic composition can include approximately 0.05 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total quantity of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer may be from about 0.05 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0,1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 30% by weight, or approximately 15 to approximately 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Cutaneous active agents#

[0052] Cutaneous active agents are ingredients included in cosmetic formulations to benefit, treat, or improve the health, appearance, or integrity of the skin. Cutaneous active ingredients are often classified according to their function. Non-limiting examples include anti-acne compounds, anti-inflammatory compounds, skin-renewing compounds, compounds that improve the skin barrier function, depigmenting compounds, anti-wrinkle compounds, anti-aging compounds, and the like.For example, cutaneous active agents include acne rosacea inhibitors (e.g., metronidazole, sulfacetamide, sodium sulfacetamide, sulfur, dapson, doxycycline, minocycline, clindamycin, clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin, tetracyclines, azelaic acid, calcium dobesilate, maleic acid and any compatible combination thereof); α-adrenergic receptor agonists (e.g., clonidine, amphetamine, doxtroamphetamine, apraclonidine, dipivefrine, α-methyldopa, oxymetazoline, oxymetazoline hydrochloride, methoxamine, metaraminol, medetomidine, dexmedetomidine, ethylnorepinephrine, guanfacine, . guanabenz, phenylephrine, phenylephrine hydrochloride, ephedrine, epinine, epinephrine, ethylnorepinephrine, levaterol, lofexidine, norepinephrine, norephrine, norephrenephrine, propylenephrine, pseudohedrenephrine, propylephrine methamphetamine, a-methylnorepinephrine, methylphenidate, mephentermine, midodrine, mivazerol, moxonidine, desglymidodrine, tetrahydrozoline, tetrahydrozoline hydrochloride, cirazoline, amidephrine, brimonidine, brimonidine tartrate, naphazoline, isoproterol, xylazine, xylometazoline and / or tizanidine); Chemicals and botanical extracts with vasoconstrictive properties, including, but not limited to, corticosteroids, ephedrine, pseudoephedrine, caffeine and / or escin; extracts of ephedra, phedra sinica, hamamelis viginiana, hydrastis canadensis, lycopus virginicus, aspidosperma quebracho, cytisus scoparius, raphanus sativus linn (radish leaf extracts), horse chestnut, etc.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the cutaneous active agents are selected from ceramides, ceramide precursors, free fatty acids, linoleic / oleic acids, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, glucan b, carob seed extract, Eperua falcata extract, amino acids, niacinamide and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerin, allantoin, squalane, omega fatty acids, or combinations thereof.

[0054] Additional non-limiting examples include chemicals or botanical extracts with anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., corticosteroids (for short-term use)), non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, bisabolol, glycyrrhetinic acid, glycerin, plant extracts with anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., tea extracts, chamomile extracts), anti-inflammatory interleukins (e.g., II-Ira); isoprenylcysteine ​​analogues (i.e., N-acetyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine), aromatic aldehydes with anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde), etc., as well as any compatible combination thereof); chemicals or botanical extracts with antimicrobial properties (e.g., antibiotics including, but not limited to, gentamicin, penicillins, cephalosporins, quinolones, ciprofloxacin and / or novobiocin); chemicals or botanical extracts with antifungal properties (e.g., ketoconazole, naphtifine hydrochloride, oxyconazole nitrate, sulconazole nitrate, urea, terbinafine hydrochloride, selenium sulfide, etc.); chemicals or botanical extracts with antidandruff properties; chemicals or botanical extracts with antiseborrheic properties; keratolytic agents or botanical extracts with keratolytic properties (i.e., alpha-hydroxy acids; beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, urea, salicylic acid, etc.); chemicals with astringent properties; . serine protease inhibitors; saturated dicarboxylic acids; alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, etc.); beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., camitine, 3-hydroxybutyric acid, 3-hydroxypropionic acid, 3-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid, salicylic acid, etc.).

[0055] Other non-limiting examples of cutaneous active agents include retinoic acid, tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, retinol and / or their derivatives; benzoyl peroxide; dapsone; kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine) and their derivatives (e.g., furfurylaminotetrahydropyranyladenine); niacinamide (nicotinamide), and their combinations. Other non-limiting examples of cutaneous active agents include metronidazole, sulfacetamide, sodium sulfacetamide, sulfur, tetracyclines, doxycycline, clindamycin, clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin and / or minocycline, azelaic acid, calcium dobesylate, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline and / or their derivatives (i.e., xanthines), vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B7, vitamin B9, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E and vitamin K, creatine,Camitin, and essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid, zinc salts such as, for example, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc glycinate, zinc gluconate, zinc histidine, zinc L-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (zinc PCA), a zinc salt of linoleic acid, a zinc salt of linolenic acid, a zinc salt of azelaic acid, zinc peptides, zinc oxide, copper salts such as, but not limited to, copper sulfate, copper chloride, copper glycinate, copper gluconate, copper histidine, copper L-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (copper PCA), a copper salt of linoleic acid, a copper salt of linolenic acid, a copper salt of azelaic acid, copper peptides,

[0056] In various embodiments, one or more cutaneous active agents are optionally selected from madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or chloride), selenium, samphire, cinnamon extract mixtures, zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cystate, copper and copper pidolate as Cuivridone Solabia, plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulmaria) and their mixtures.

[0057] In various embodiments, one or more cutaneous active agents may be selected from adenosine, 2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-l-yl]ethanesulfonic acid HEPES, hyaluronic acid, lanolin, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, vitamin C, a vitamin, a retinoid, retinal, retinoic acid, a carotenoid, an amino acid, a protein, an enzyme, and a coenzyme. In some cases, the active ingredient is adenosine.

[0058] The cutaneous active agent may be selected from lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a blend of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, a C-glycoside derivative, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, for example, such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name “Mexoryl SBB”, a rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, a Prophyridium cruentum microalgae extract enriched with zinc, marketed under the name Vincience Algualane Zinc,Collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

[0059] Depigmenting agents include vitamin C and its derivatives, and in particular vitamins CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D-panthetin calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their counterparts, plant derivatives such as chamomile, red strawberry, the aloe family (aloe vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, and a kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be,an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include vitamin C and its derivatives, and in particular vitamins CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, panthetin D calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

[0060] Useful cutaneous active agents include adenosine and its derivatives and retinol and its derivatives, such as retinyl palmitate, ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as their hydrolyzed derivatives such as protein hydrolysates or soy proteins, seaweed extracts and in particular kelp, bacterial extracts,Sapogenins such as diogenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, particularly wild yam, including: α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Adenosine derivatives include in particular non-phosphate adenosine derivatives, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside.

[0062] Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and the metrifudil.

[0063] In one embodiment, the composition comprises an active ingredient that treats oily skin. These active substances may be sebum-regulating or antiseborrheic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. These include: retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, sea fennel; —mixtures of cinnamon, tea, and octanoylglycine extracts such as Seppic's 15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA; —the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed notably by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; —zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc cystate; —derived in particular copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone Solabia; —plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by Maruzen; —extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as those sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab; —extracts of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, such as those sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine;—extracts of root mixtures of crown vetch (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia; —extracts of flax seeds such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; —extracts of Phellodendron such as those sold under the name Phellodendron Extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos; —mixtures of argan oil, Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and sesame seeds such as those sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm; —mixtures of willowherb extract, Terminalia chebula, nasturium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae) extracts, such as those sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; —Pygeum afrianum extracts such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed;— extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by Euromed; — extracts of mixtures of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; — clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; — lactic protein filtrates, such as those sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma; — extracts of laminaria algae, such as those sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine; — oligosaccharides of laminaria digitata algae, such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide 30 AC by Codif; —sugar cane extracts such as those sold under the name Policosanol by the company Sabinsa, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichthyol Pale by Ichthyol;— meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts such as those sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by Libiol; — sebacic acid, notably sold as a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; — glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains such as those sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical; —; Extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland; — extracts of Quinquina succirubra bark, such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller; — extracts of Quillaja saponaria, such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; — glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG or by SEPPIC; — the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC.Net by Sederma; — phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; — tri(C12-C13) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by Sasol; trialkyl (C14-C15) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by Sasol; —10-Hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol such as those sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Other cutaneous active agents useful here include those selected from N-acetyl D-glucosamine, panthenol (e.g., DL panthenol available from Alps Pharmaceutical Inc.), tocopheryl nicotinate, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, flavonoids (e.g., flavanone, chalcone), famesol, phytantriol, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters (e.g., retinyl propionate), phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, acid lipoic acid, tocopherol and its esters (e.g., tocopheryl acetate: DL-α-tocopheryl acetate available from Eisai), azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol,Phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, theophylline, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more skin-active agents selected from free ceramides, for example, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide NP, Ceramide NH, Ceramide AH, Ceramide EOH, Ceramide EOS, Ceramide AdS, Ceramide NdS and Ceramide EOdS, protein-bound ceramides, phytosphingosine, sphingosine, ceramide precursors, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, or combinations thereof.

[0066] In various embodiments, the total quantity of cutaneous active agents in the cosmetic composition of the disclosure may be in an amount of more than zero to about 9% by weight, more than zero to about 8% by weight, more than zero to about 7% by weight, from more than zero to about 6% by weight, from more than zero to about 5% by weight, from more than zero to about 4% by weight, from more than zero to about 3% by weight, from more than zero to about 2% by weight; from about 10 ppm to about 10% by weight (100,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 5% by weight (50,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 2.5% by weight (25,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.2% by weight (2,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.1% by weight (1,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight;from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight; from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight; from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 5% by weight; from about 4 to about 10% by weight, from about 4 to about 8% by weight or from about 4 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Surfactant#

[0067] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "surfactant" includes emulsifiers and detergents. Surfactants are compounds that reduce the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants are amphiphilic, meaning they contain hydrophilic (water-loving) head groups and hydrophobic (water-repelling, oil-loving) tails. Surfactants adsorb at the oil-water interface, thereby reducing the surface tension.

[0068] For the purposes of this disclosure, an "emulsifier" is a surfactant that stabilizes emulsions. Emulsifiers coat the droplets of an emulsion and prevent them from clumping together or coalescing. An "emulsion" is a mixture of two or more liquids, with or without an emulsifier, that are normally immiscible. One of the liquids, the "dispersed phase," forms droplets in the other liquid, the "continuous phase."

[0069] A “detergent” is a surfactant which has cleaning properties in dilute solutions and is generally anionic.

[0070] Surfactants may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric (zwitterionic), or nonionic. Preferably, the emulsions in this case include one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. (zwitterionic), nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the emulsions are preferably free or substantially free of cationic surfactants. In other embodiments, the emulsions include one or more cationic surfactants. In preferred embodiments, the emulsions contain one or more biosurfactants, one or more anionic surfactants, optionally one or more nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of this disclosure include a plurality of surfactants, wherein the plurality of surfactants includes one or more biosurfactants and one or more surfactants other than one or more biosurfactants. In other embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure include one or more biosurfactants, one or more anionic surfactants, and optionally, one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0072] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more biosurfactants. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes one or more biosurfactants and one or more additional surfactants different from the one or more biosurfactants selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or combinations thereof. Biosurfactant

[0073] Biosurfactants are amphiphilic molecules, for example glycolipids (e.g., sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids and trehalose lipids), lipopeptides (e.g., surfactin, urine, fengycin, arthrofactin and lichenysin), flavolipids, phospholipids (e.g., cardiolipins), fatty acid ester compounds, fatty acid ether compounds and high molecular weight polymers such as lipoproteins, lipopolysaccharide-protein complexes, and polysaccharide-protein-fatty acid complexes.

[0074] Biosurfactants are environmentally friendly, biodegradable, and non-toxic, and can be classified as high-molecular-weight and low-molecular-weight biosurfactants. Low-molecular-weight biosurfactants effectively reduce surface and interfacial tension, while high-molecular-weight biosurfactants are more effective as emulsion stabilizers. Examples of low-molecular-weight biosurfactants include glycolipids, such as rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, lipopeptides, and trehalolipids. These low-molecular-weight biosurfactants have hydrophilic heads composed of sugar motifs glycosidically linked to hydrophobic, nonpolar portions. Examples of high-molecular-weight biosurfactants include Polysaccharides, lipopolysaccharides, proteins, and lipoproteins. A polysaccharide-based biosurfactant can be classified into sorbitan esters, sucrose esters, and glucose-based surfactants, which include alkyl polyglycosides and fatty acid glucamides.

[0075] Non-limiting examples of biosurfactants include lipopeptides such as surfactin; fatty acids and phospholipids, polymer matrix biosurfactants; particulate biosurfactants; and bacterial biosurfactants composed of polysaccharides, proteins, lipopolysaccharides, lipoproteins or complex mixtures of these biopolymers.

[0076] Non-limiting examples of commercially available biosurfactants include alkylpolyglycoside available under the brand name EcoSense® 3000 from Dow Chemical®; D-glucopranose glycosides, oligomers, decyl octyl available under the trade name Glucopon® 215 from BASF Corporation®; rhamnolipids available under the trade name REWOFERM® SL ONE from Evonik®; D-Glucitol, l-deoxy-l-(methylamino)-, N-coco acyl derivatives available under the trade name GlucoTain® from Clariant®; rhamnolipids from Jeneil Biotech® and BioLoop® surfactants from Lankem® Ltd.

[0077] In one embodiment, the microbial biosurfactant is a glycolipid such as rhamnolipids (RLP), sophorolipids (SLP), trehalose lipid, or mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL). The biosurfactants may be added in purified form or may be present in the microbial composition due to microbial growth. The biosurfactant may be a sophorolipid. In some embodiments, the biosurfactant may also be a lipopeptide, such as surfactin, and / or a rhamnolipid.

[0078] In some embodiments, a mixture of biosurfactants is present. Preferably, the mixture comprises a rhamnolipid, and optionally one or both of a mannosylerythritol lipid, a surfactin, or a sophorolipid. In a preferred embodiment, the microbe is a non-pathogenic strain of Pseudomonas. Preferably, the strain is a producer of rhamnolipid biosurfactants (RLP).

[0079] Other microbial strains, including, for example, other fungal strains capable of accumulating significant amounts of, for example, glycolipid biosurfactants, may be used in accordance with the present invention. The biosurfactants useful according to the present invention include a mannoprotein, a beta-glucan, and other metabolites that exhibit bioemulsifying and surface / interfacial tension-reducing properties.

[0080] In various embodiments, one or more biosurfactants are selected from surfactin, iturine, fengycin, lichenysin, serrawettin, the Phospholipids, rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, trehalolipid, mannosylerythritol lipids, cellobiolipids, lipoproteins, rubiwetins, trehalose, omithine, pentasaccharide lipids, viscosine, bacitracin, lipopeptides, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the biosurfactants are selected from one or more glycolipids such as, for example, rhamnolipids, rhamnose-D-phospholipids, trehalose lipids, trehalose dimycolates, trehalose monomycolates, mannosylerythritol lipids, cellobiose lipids, ustilagic acid, and / or sophorolipids.

[0081] In various embodiments, the biosurfactant has anionic character, for example, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, and rhamnolipids. Mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids are preferred. The preferred alkyl chain length is from C8 to C12. The alkyl chain may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0082] The term “rhamnolipids” includes compounds of general formula (II) and their salts, OH OH H

[0083] in which • mRL = 2, 1 or 0, • nRL = 1 or 0, • R1rl and R2rl = are independently organic residues having 2 to 24, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular alkyl residues that are optionally branched, optionally substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, optionally unsaturated, in particular optionally mono-, bi- or tri-unsaturated, preferably those selected from the group consisting of the pentenyl, heptenyl, nonenyl, undecenyl and tridecenyl and (CH2)O-CHs where o = 1 to 23, preferably 4 to 12. • If nRL = 1, the glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose motifs is preferably in the a configuration. The optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably present as R enantiomers (e.g., I-3-{I-3-[2-O-(aL-rhamnopyranosyl)-aL-rhamnopyranosyl]oxydecanoyl}oxydecanoate).

[0084] The term “di-rhamnolipid” in the context of the present invention refers to compounds of the general formula (II) or their salts, where nRL=l.

[0085] The term “monorhamnolipid” in the context of the present invention refers to compounds of general formula (II) or their salts, where nRL=0.

[0086] The distinct rhamnolipides are abbreviated according to the following nomenclature: “diRL-CXCY” designates the di-rhamnolipides of the general formula (II), in which one of the residues R1rl and R2rl=(CH2)o—CH3 where o=X-4 and the remaining residue R1 or R2=(CH2)O —CH3 where o=Y-4.

[0087] “monoRL-CXCY” refers to mono-rhamnolipids of general formula (II), in which one of the residues R1rl and R2RL=(CH.sub.2).sub.o—CH.sub.3 where o=X-4 and the remaining residue R1rl or R2rl=(CH2)o—CH3 where o=Y-4. The nomenclature used therefore does not distinguish between “CXCY” and “CYCX”.

[0088] For rhamnolipids where mRL=0, monoRL-CX or diRL-CX is used accordingly.

[0089] If one of the aforementioned indices X and / or Y is provided with ":Z", this means that the respective residue R1rl and / or R2rl is equal to an unbranched, unsubstituted hydrocarbon residue having X-3 or Y-3 carbon atoms having Z double bonds.

[0090] Suitable methods for preparing rhamnolipids are disclosed, for example, in documents EP2786743 and EP2787065. Rhamnolipids can also be produced by fermentation of Pseudomonas, in particular Pseudomonas aeruginosa, which are preferably non-genetically modified cells, a technology already disclosed in the 1980s, as documented, for example, in EP0282942 and DE4127908. Rhamnolipids produced in Pseudomonas aeruginosa cells that have been enhanced to increase rhamnolipid titers by genetic modification can also be used in the context of the present invention; such cells were, for example, disclosed by Lei et al. in Biotechnol Lett. June 2020; 42(6):997-1002. Biosurfactants, particularly glycolipid surfactants, can be produced, for example, as described in EP 0 499 434, US patentNo. 7 985 722, WO 03 / 006146, JP 60 183032, DE 19648439, DE 19600743, JP 01 304034, CN 1337439, . JP 2006 274233, KR 2004033376, JP 2006 083238, JP 2006 070231, WO 03 / 002700, FR 2740779, DE 2939519, US Patent No. 7,556,654, FR 2855752, EP 1445302, JP 2008 062179 and JP 2007 181789.

[0091] Rhamnolipids produced by Pseudomonas aeruginosa are commercially available from Jeneil Biotech Inc., for example under the trade name Zonix ®, from Logos Technologies (technology acquired by Stepan), for example under the trade name NatSurFact®, from Biotensidon GmbH, for example under the trade name Rhapynal®, from AGAE® Technologies, for example under the name R90, R95, R95Md, R95Dd, from Locus Bio-Energy Solutions and from Shanghai Yusheng Industry Co. Ltd., for example under the trade name Bio-201 Glycolipids®.

[0092] The total amount of one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be from approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, or from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight. In another embodiment, the total amount of one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is from approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, or from approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In yet another embodiment, the total quantity of one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In preferred embodiments, the total quantity of one or more biosurfactants in the cosmetic composition is approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Anionic surfactants

[0093] Popular anionic surfactants known for their good detergent and foaming properties include sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth ether sulfate, which may be included. In other embodiments, it may be preferable for the cosmetic composition to be free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants. In various embodiments, it may be preferable to include milder, non-sulfate anionic surfactants, such as one or more anionic surfactants selected from alkylsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylisethionates, alkoxylated monoacids, and amino acids. acyl compounds such as acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts or mixtures.

[0094] The total amount of one or more anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but can be an amount of about 0.01 and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. a. Acyl isethionates #

[0095] Non-limiting examples of useful acyl isethionates include those of formulas (III) and (IV):

[0096] wherein R, R1, R2, and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3. Although sodium is represented as a cation in formulas (III) and (IV), the cation for formula (III) and formula (IV) may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl isethionates include sodium isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, and sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate.

[0097]

[0098] In some embodiments, a combination of sodium isethionate and sodium cocoyl isethionate is preferable. a. Alkyl sulfonates# Examples of alkyl sulfonates include alkyl aryl sulfonates, primary alkane disulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkylphenol polyglycol ether sulfonates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, phenylalkanesulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates and disulfonates, secondary alkanesulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, ester sulfonates, glycerol esters of sulfonated fatty acids, and methyl esters of alpha-sulfo fatty acids, including a methyl ester sulfonate. In some cases, an alkyl sulfonate of formula (V) is particularly useful.

[0099]

[0100] R is chosen from H or an alkyl chain having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Sodium is represented as a cation in formula (V) above, but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. In some cases, the alkyl sulfonate(s) are chosen from C8-C16 alkyl benzenesulfonates, C10-C20 paraffin sulfonates, C10-C24 olefin sulfonates, their salts, and mixtures thereof. C10-C24 olefin sulfonates may be particularly preferred. A non-limiting example of a C10-C24 olefin sulfonate that may be used in these compositions is sodium Ci4-Ci6 olefin sulfonate. a. Alkyl sulfosuccinates# Non-limiting examples of useful sulfosuccinates include those of formula (VI): (VI)

[0101] wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is a number representing the average degree of ethoxylation and may range from 0 to about 5, preferably from 0 to about 4, and most preferably from about 2 to about 3.5, and M and M' are monovalent cations that may be identical or different from each other. Preferred cations are alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.

[0102] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinate salts include oleamido MIPA disodium sulfosuccinate, oleamido MEA disodium sulfosuccinate, lauryl sulfosuccinate disodium, laureth sulfosuccinate disodium, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diammonium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, oleamide MEA disodium sulfosuccinate, sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is particularly preferred. a. Alkyl sulfoacetates#

[0103] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfoacetates include, for example, alkyl sulfoacetates such as C4-C18 fatty alcohol sulfoacetates and / or their salts. A particularly preferred sulfoacetate salt is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Useful cations for the salts include alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. a. Alkoxylated monoacids#

[0104] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated monoacids include compounds corresponding to formula (VII):

[0105] RO[CH2O]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]wCH2COOH(VII)

[0106] in which: • R is a hydrocarbon radical containing approximately 6 to approximately 40 carbon atoms; • u, v and w, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 60; • x, y and z, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 13; • R' represents a hydrogen, an alkyl, and

[0107] the sum of x+y+z > 0;

[0108] The compounds corresponding to formula (VII) can be obtained by alkoxylation of ROH alcohols with ethylene oxide as the sole alkoxide, or with several alkoxides and subsequent oxidation. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. While at the molecular level the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be whole numbers, including zero, at the macroscopic level they are average values ​​in the form of fractional numbers.

[0109] In formula (VII), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is a linear or branched acyclic C6-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, or a (Ci-C4o)phenyl (alkyl) group, more typically a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a (C4-Ci8)phenyl (alkyl) group, and even more typically a Ci2-Ci8 alkyl or alkenyl group or a (C6-Ci6)phenyl (alkyl) group; u, v, w, independently of each other, are typically a number from 2 to 20, more typically a number from 3 to 17, and most typically a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of each other, are typically a number from 2 to 13, more typically a number from 1 to 10 and most typically a number from 0 to 8.

[0110] Suitable alkoxylated monoacids include, but are not limited to: 5-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 19-butoxynol carboxylic acid, capryleth-4 carboxylic acid, capryleth-6 carboxylic acid, capryleth-9 carboxylic acid, ceteareth-25 carboxylic acid, coceth-7 carboxylic acid, pareth-6 carboxylic acid C9-Cn, pareth-7 carboxylic acid Cn-Ci5, pareth-5 carboxylic acid Ci2-Ci3, pareth-8 carboxylic acid Ci2-Ci3, pareth-12 carboxylic acid Ci2-Ci3, pareth-7 carboxylic acid Ci2-Ci5, pareth-8 carboxylic acid Ci2-Ci5, pareth-8 carboxylic acid Ci4-Ci5, deceth-7 carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid, PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid,PPG-8-steareth-7 carboxylic acid, myreth-3 carboxylic acid, myreth-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, octeth-3 carboxylic acid, octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, oleth-3 carboxylic acid, oleth-6 carboxylic acid, oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid, capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, deceth-2 carboxylic acid, hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-6 carboxylic acid, trideceth-8 carboxylic acid, trideceth-12 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-4 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, trideceth-15 carboxylic acid, trideceth-19 carboxylic acid, undeceth-5 carboxylic acid and mixtures thereof. In some cases, preferred ethoxylated acids include oleth-10 acid, carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid and any mixture thereof. a. A. Acyl amino acids#

[0111] The acyl amino acids that may be used include, but are not limited to, amino acid-type surfactants based on alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, threonine, and taurine. The most common cation associated with the acyl amino acid may be sodium or potassium. Alternatively, the cation may be an organic salt such as triethanolamine (TEA) or a metal salt. Non-limiting examples of acyl amino acids include those of formula (VIII): or r2 r3 <viii) R i--C—N—CH--(CIBX—X“

[0112] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3. a. Acyl taurates

[0113] Non-limiting examples of acyl taurates include those of formula (IX): (IX)

[0114] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3. Non-limiting examples of acyl taurate salts include sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl lauroyl taurate. a. Acyl glycinates#

[0115] Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include those of formula (X): RC—NHCH2COONa

[0116] wherein R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Although sodium is represented as a cation in formula (X) above, the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate, and in particular potassium cocoyl glycinate. a. Acyl glutamates #

[0117] Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include those of formula (XI): O (XI) RC—NH HOOCCH2CH2CHCOONa

[0118] in which R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Sodium is represented as a cation in formula (XI) above, but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and undecylenoyl glutamate. sodium, triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, and disodium cocoyl glutamate. In some cases, sodium stearoyl glutamate is particularly preferred. a. Acyl sarcosinates:

[0119] Non-limiting examples of acyl sarcosinates include potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0120] The total quantity of one or more anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total quantity of one or more anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition, if any, is from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0121] Multiphase cleaning compositions may optionally include one or more amphoteric surfactants. Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants include betaines, alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl sulftaines, alkyl amphopropionates, and combinations thereof.

[0122] Non-limiting examples of betaine surfactants include cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, or mixtures thereof.

[0123] Non-limiting examples of alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates include C8-C20 alkyl amphoacetates and C8-C20 alkyl amphodiacetates, such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0124] The total amount of one or more amphoteric surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the final cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more amphoteric surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0125] Multiphase cleaning compositions may optionally include one or more nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polyol esters, alkoxylated glycerides, glucosides, alkanolamides, sorbitan derivatives, or combinations thereof.

[0126] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth-23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-2, steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth-10, pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, Cl2-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, Cl1-15 pareth-7, PEG hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-75 lanolin, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-20, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, glycereth-26 (PEG-26 glyceryl ether), PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated polyol esters include ethylene oxide adducts with lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid esters, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated glycerides include PEG-6 almond glycerides, PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-35 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-192 apricot kernel glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG-14 avocado glycerides, PEG-11 babassu glycerides, PEG-42 babassu glycerides, PEG-4 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-8 caprylic / capric glycerides, butter glycerides PEG-11 cocoa, PEG-75 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-7 coconut glycerides, PEG-9 coconut glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-20 evening primrose glycerides, PEG-60 hydrogenated evening primrose glycerides, PEG-5 hydrogenated corn glycerides, PEG-8 hydrogenated fish glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm glycerides, PEG-6 hydrogenated palm / palm kernel glycerides, PEG-16 macadamia nut glycerides, PEG-70 mango glycerides, PEG-13 mink glycerides, PEG-25 moringa glycerides, PEG-42 mushroom glycerides, PEG-2 olive glycerides, olive glycerides PEG-6, olive glycerides; PEG-7, olive glycerides; PEG-10, olive glycerides; PEG-40, palm glycerides; PEG-18, palm kernel glycerides; PEG-12, palm kernel glycerides; PEG-45, passionflower seed glycerides; PEG-60, passionflower seed glycerides; PEG-45, safflower glyceridesPEG-60 shea butter glycerides, PEG-75 shea butter glycerides, PEG-75 shea butter glycerides, PEG-35 soybean glycerides, PEG-75 soybean glycerides, PEG-2 sunflower glycerides, PEG-7 sunflower glycerides, PEG-10 sunflower glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower glycerides, PEG-5 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-10 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-20 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-60 tsubakiate glycerides, PEG-8 palm glycerides, sodium carboxylate, or mixtures thereof.

[0129] Non-limiting examples of glucosides (also known as "alkylpolyglucosides") include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, or combinations thereof.

[0130] Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Non-limiting examples of sorbitan derivatives include polysorbates, for example polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-40 (POE(20) sorbitan monopalmitate), polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-61 (POE(4) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-65 (POE(20) sorbitan tristearate), polysorbate-80 (POE(20) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-85 (POE(20) sorbitan trioleate), isostearate of sorbitan, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, or mixtures thereof.

[0132] The total quantity of one or more nonionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but can be from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the final cosmetic composition. In other modes of During production, the cosmetic composition may include approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8 % by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cationic surfactants

[0133] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachimidopropyldimethylamine, arachimidopropyldiethylamine, arachimidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] One or more cationic surfactants may be selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, fatty dialkylamines, or mixtures thereof.

[0135] Non-limiting examples of quaternary ammonium compounds include cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and combinations thereof.

[0136] Non-limiting examples of fatty dialkylamines include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, their salts, and their combinations.

[0137] In various embodiments, one or more cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine or a mixture thereof.

[0138] The total amount of one or more cationic surfactants in the cosmetic composition will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Water

[0139] The total amount of water in the cosmetic composition will vary, but can be from about 30 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the mineral cosmetic. In other embodiments, the total quantity of water may be from approximately 30 to approximately 80% by weight, from approximately 30 to approximately 70% by weight, from approximately 30 to approximately 60% by weight, from approximately 30 to approximately 50% by weight, from approximately 40 to approximately 90% by weight, from approximately 40 to approximately 80% by weight, from approximately 40 to approximately 70% by weight, from approximately 40 to approximately 60% by weight, from approximately 40 to approximately 50% by weight, from approximately 50 to approximately 90% by weight, from approximately 50 to approximately 80% by weight, from approximately 50 to approximately 70% by weight, from approximately 50 to approximately 60% by weight, from approximately 60 to approximately 90% by weight, from approximately 60 to approximately 80% by weight, from approximately 50 to approximately 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Fatty alcohols

[0140] The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols generally include monohydric alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, although longer-chain alcohols exceeding 30 carbons may be used. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. In particular, the oil phase may comprise a linear-chain saturated fatty alcohol with a terminal hydroxyl group. Suitable fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, icosyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol.

[0141] The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols may be from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 5 to about 10% by weight, or from about 5 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. Water-soluble solvent

[0142] The cosmetic composition optionally includes one or more water-soluble solvents. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with "water-soluble organic solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, monoalcohols (e.g., C2.8, C2.4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from alcohols (e.g., C2.6, C2.4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of Propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, are all suitable examples of organic solvents. Other appropriate examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and propanediol.

[0144] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-iso-propyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbite, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more selected glycols. including propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] The total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 20% by weight, from about 1 to about 15% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, or from about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Vitamins

[0147] The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more skin vitamins. "Vitamins" means vitamins, provitamins, and their salts, isomers, and derivatives. Non-limiting examples of suitable vitamins include vitamin B compounds (including B1 compounds, B2 compounds, B3 compounds such as niacinamide, niacinnicotinic acid, tocopheryl nicotinate, nicotinic acid Cl-Cl8 esters, and nicotinyl alcohol; B5 compounds, such as panthenol or "pro-B5," pantothenic acid, pantothenyl; B6 compounds, such as pyroxidine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine; carnitine, thiamine, riboflavin);vitamin A compounds and all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A, including retinoids, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinic acid, retinaldehyde, retinyl propionate, carotenoids (pro-vitamin A) and other compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A; vitamin D compounds; vitamin K compounds; vitamin E compounds or tocopherol, including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters and tocopherol compounds; vitamin C compounds, including ascorbate, fatty acid ascorbyl esters and ascorbic acid derivatives, for example, ascorbyl phosphates such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl sorbate;and vitamin F compounds, such as saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin B compounds, vitamin C compounds, vitamin E compounds, and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the vitamin is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopheryl nicotinate, pyroxidine, panthenol, vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] The total amount of one or more vitamins, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition cosmetic. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight or from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more vitamins, based on the total weight of the mineral cosmetic. Antioxidants

[0149] Cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more antioxidants. Suitable antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives (e.g., sodium metabisulfite and N-acetylcysteine), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, resveratrol, lactoferrin and ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl polypeptide and ascorbyl phosphate).

[0150] Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), sodium tocopheryl phosphate, tocotrienols, alkylresorcinols, curcurmin and its derivatives, and ubiquinone. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids and their derivatives (e.g., genistein and diadzein), extracts containing resveratrol, and the like. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seeds, green tea, pine bark, Phyllanthus emblica, and propolis.

[0151] The total quantity of one or more antioxidants, if any, will vary, but may be from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more antioxidants, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Various ingredients

[0152] Cosmetic compositions may optionally include or exclude (or are essentially free from) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include Preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the various ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, compositional colorants, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of this disclosure, a "compositional colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on the hair.In other words, the colorant is included to give the product color for aesthetic purposes, but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.

[0153] The total quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary, but may be an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Aqueous phase

[0154] Cosmetic compositions are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions having an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The aqueous phase may constitute approximately 10 to approximately 90% by weight of the cosmetic composition, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the aqueous phase may constitute approximately 20 to approximately 80% by weight, approximately 30 to approximately 70% by weight, approximately 40 to approximately 60% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 20 to approximately 50% by weight, approximately 30 to approximately 60% by weight, approximately 40 to approximately 80% by weight, approximately 50 to approximately 90% by weight, or approximately 60 to approximately 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Oily phase

[0155] The oily phase may constitute approximately 10 to approximately 90% by weight of the cosmetic composition, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the oily phase may constitute approximately 20 to approximately 80% by weight, approximately 30 to approximately 70% by weight, approximately 40 to approximately 60% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 20 to approximately 50% by weight, approximately 30 to approximately 60% by weight, approximately 40 to approximately 80% by weight, approximately 50 to approximately 90% by weight, or approximately 60 to approximately 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Droplet size

[0156] In various embodiments, the average droplet size of the oil phase in the emulsions forming the cosmetic compositions is approximately 10 nm to approximately 2 pm, approximately 10 nm to approximately 1.5 pm, approximately 10 nm to approximately 1 pm, approximately 10 nm to approximately 800 nm, approximately 10 nm to approximately 600 nm, approximately 10 nm to approximately 500 nm, approximately 10 nm to approximately 250 nm, approximately 50 nm to approximately 2 pm, approximately 50 nm to approximately 1.5 pm, approximately 50 nm to approximately 1 pm, approximately 50 nm to approximately 800 nm, approximately 50 nm to approximately 600 nm, approximately 50 nm to approximately 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 2 pm, from about 100 nm to about 1.5 pm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm,or from approximately 200 nm to approximately 300 nm.

[0157] Droplet size can be determined using Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS). DLS is a technique used to determine droplet size in a colloidal system or emulsion. When samples are illuminated with a monochromatic laser beam, the particles in the samples undergo Brownian motion, causing fluctuations in the intensity of the scattered light. The scattered light is then collected at different angles, and the autocorrelation function of these intensity fluctuations is analyzed. The analysis provides information on the scattering rate of the particles, from which the size distribution is deduced using mathematical models.Brookhaven's DLS instruments use advanced algorithms to accurately interpret data, providing information on the dynamic behavior and size characteristics of particles ranging from a few nanometers to several micrometers in a liquid medium. Embodiments.

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of: a. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of a hydrophobic polymer, which is a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer, wherein preferably,

[0159] The hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of: (a)(i) a natural or food-grade oil selected from linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil or combinations thereof, preferably linseed oil, and (a)(ii) a polymer derived from monomers selected from isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate and combinations thereof, preferably an isobutyl methacrylate polymer, wherein, even more preferably,

[0160] the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of linseed oil and poly(isobutyl methacrylate); a. one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a), in which preferably,

[0161] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I): [°1621 Ra = + (P - P^ + (H - h / ®

[0163] in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa0.5, in which, more preferably,

[0164] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I): [°1651 Ra = + (P - Pj2 + (H - ®

[0166] in which • Di is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pr is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • IP is 11.7 MPa0'5, wherein, even more preferably,

[0167] at least one or more solvents capable of dissolving the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, isodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, oleyl erucate, passionflower oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides mixed,2-Ethylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethyl ester, cetostearyl octanoate, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecanol myristate, butylloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, oil calendula, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diglyceryl caprylic / capric succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isonoanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyldimethicone,a coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, a C12-13 dialkyl tartrate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, a hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyltrimethicone, a polydecene, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, stearyl heptanoate, tricapryline, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearine or combinations thereof; a. one or more cutaneous active agents, in which preferably the one or more cutaneous active agents include a ceramide; b. approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, preferably approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, more preferably approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably a plurality of surfactants; and c. of water; d. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably in which the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, where appropriate, are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (for example, organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, where appropriate, they are preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

[0168] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0169] The average droplet size in the dispersion is preferably about 10 nm to about 1 pm, about 10 nm to about 800 nm, about 10 nm to about 600 nm, about 10 nm to about 500 nm, about 10 nm to about 250 nm, about 50 nm to about 1 pm, about 50 nm to about 800 nm, about 50 nm to about 600 nm, about 50 nm to about 500 nm, about 50 nm to about 250 nm, about 100 nm to about 1 pm, about 100 nm to about 800 nm, about 100 nm to about 600 nm, about 100 nm at about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm, or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm.

[0170] The pH of the cosmetic composition can be from about 4.5 to about 8.5. In other embodiments, the pH of the emulsion can be from about 5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 7, from about 5 to less than 7, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6.5, from about 5.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6 or from about 6 to about 7.5.

[0171] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises, consists of, or consists essentially of: a. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of a hydrophobic polymer, which is a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer, wherein preferably,

[0172] The hydrophobic polymer is a reaction product of: (a)(i) a natural or food-grade oil selected from linseed oil, sunflower oil, oil of tung, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil or combinations thereof, preferably linseed oil, and (a)(ii) a polymer derived from monomers selected from isobutyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate and combinations thereof, preferably an isobutyl methacrylate polymer, wherein even more preferably,

[0173] the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of linseed oil and poly(isobutyl methacrylate); a. about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a), in which preferably,

[0174] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to Hansen's solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0175]

[0176] G 71i (2 (I) Ra^^D-DJ +(P-Pj + (HH}) in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa0.5, in which, more preferably,

[0177] the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I):

[0178]

[0179] nv? / \2 7 72 (I) Ra^^DD^ +(PP^ +{H-Hj in which • Di is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pi is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • The fold is 11.7 MPa0.5, in which, even more preferentially,

[0180] at least one or more solvents capable of dissolving the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, isodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, oleyl erucate, Passiflora incamata oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides mixed, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, a 3,5,5-trimethyl ester, cetostearyl octanoate, the dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecanol myristate, butylloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil,decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, calendula oil, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diglyceryl caprylic / capric succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isonoanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyldimethicone, a coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, a C12-13 dialkyl tartrate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, a hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate,pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyltrimethicone, a polydecene, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, stearyl heptanoate, tricaprylin, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearine or combinations thereof; a. about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more cutaneous active agents; wherein preferably at least one of the one or more cutaneous active agents is a ceramide selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or mixtures thereof; b. about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, wherein the surfactants are selected from:

[0181] (d)(i) one or more biosurfactants, preferably in which at least one of the one or more biosurfactants is a glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids and combinations thereof, in which preferably at least one of the one or more biosurfactants is a rhamnolipid; and / or

[0182] (d)(ii) one or more additional surfactants other than one or more biosurfactants of (d)(i), preferably wherein the one or more additional surfactants other than the biosurfactants of (d)(i) include one or more anionic surfactants, one or more non-ionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, or a combination thereof; a. about 75 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 80 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 85 to about 93% by weight of water; b. optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents, if any, are selected from monoalcohols (for example, C2x or C2-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and mixtures thereof, wherein, if any, the one or more water-soluble solvents are present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight; and c. optionally, one or more film-forming polymers; and d. Optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably in wherein one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if any, are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, wherein, if any, they are preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

[0183] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and

[0184] all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

[0185] The average droplet size is preferably from about 10 nm to about 1 pm, from about 10 nm to about 800 nm, from about 10 nm to about 600 nm, from about 10 nm to about 500 nm, from about 10 nm to about 250 nm, from about 50 nm to about 1 pm, from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, from about 50 nm to about 600 nm,

[0186]

[0187]

[0188]

[0189]

[0190]

[0191]

[0192] from about 50 nm to about 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm, or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm. The pH of the cosmetic composition can be from about 4.5 to about 8.5. In other embodiments, the pH of the emulsion can be from about 5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 7, from about 5 to less than 7, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6.5, from about 5.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6 or from about 6 to about 7.5. In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of: a. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of a hydrophobic polymer which is the reaction product of linseed oil and poly(isobutyl methacrylate); b. about 5 to about 60% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 50% by weight, more preferably about 20 to about 45% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a), in which preferably, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I): Ra = + (P - P^ + (H - H ® in which • Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, • Pi is 4.8 MPa0'5, and • Hi is 13.0 MPa0.5, in which, more preferably, the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P) and a hydrogen bonding component (H), and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 9.9 MPa0.5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, in which the distance (Ra) is defined by formula (I): Ra = - ü / + (P - Pj)2 + (H - ®

[0193] in which • Dr is 16.4 MPa0'5, • Pi is 5.0 MPa0'5, and • Hr is 11.7 MPa0'5, wherein, even more preferably,

[0194] at least one or more solvents capable of dissolving the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from dioctylcyclohexane, a mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, trimethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dihexyl carbonate, a polydecene, octyl cocoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl decanoate, isodecyl octanoate, dihexyl ether, isododecane, isodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, oleyl erucate, passionflower oil, jojoba oil, octyl palmitate, macadamia nut oil, isopropyl stearate, rapeseed oil, hexyldecanol, isotridecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanonanoate, polycitronellol acetate, decanoyl and octanoyl glycerides mixed,2-Ethylhexanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethyl ester, cetostearyl octanoate, dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, dioctyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate (2-ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecanol myristate, butylloctanoic acid, isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl isostearate, jojoba oil, cyclomethicone, peanut oil, almond oil, sunflower oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, olive oil, dibutyl adipate, castor oil, oil calendula, wheat germ oil, decyl oleate, avocado oil, calendula oil, propylene glycol monoisostearate, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diglyceryl caprylic / capric succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isonoanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyldimethicone,a coco caprylate / caprate, cocoglycerides, a C12-13 dialkyl tartrate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, hexyldecanol, a hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, phenyltrimethicone, a polydecene, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, stearyl heptanoate, tricapryline, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearine or combinations thereof; a. about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more cutaneous active agents; wherein preferably at least one of the one or more cutaneous active agents is a ceramide selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or mixtures thereof; b. about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably a plurality of surfactants, wherein the plurality of surfactants are preferably selected from

[0195] (d)(i) one or more biosurfactants, preferably in which at least one of the one or more biosurfactants is a glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids and combinations thereof, in which preferably at least one of the one or more biosurfactants is a rhamnolipid; and / or

[0196] (d)(ii) one or more additional surfactants other than one or more biosurfactants of (d)(i), preferably wherein the one or more additional surfactants other than the biosurfactants of (d)(i) include one or more anionic surfactants, one or more non-ionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, or a combination thereof; a. about 30 to about 90% by weight, preferably about 40 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 40 to about 70% by weight of water; b. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably in which the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, where appropriate, are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (for example, organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, where appropriate, they are preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

[0197] wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0198] The average droplet size in the dispersion is preferably from about 10 nm to about 1 pm, from about 10 nm to about 800 nm, from about 10 nm to about 600 nm, from about 10 nm to about 500 nm, from about 10 nm to about 250 nm, from about 50 nm to about 1 pm, from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, from about 50 nm to about 600 nm, from about 50 nm to about 500 nm, from about 50 nm to about 250 nm, from about 100 nm to about 1 pm, from about 100 nm to about 800 nm, from about 100 nm to about 600 nm, from about 100 nm to about 500 nm, from about 100 nm to about 300 nm, from about 150 nm to about 500 nm, from about 150 nm to about 400 nm, from about 200 nm to about 500 nm, or from about 200 nm to about 300 nm.

[0199] The pH of the cosmetic composition can be from about 4.5 to about 8.5. In other embodiments, the pH of the emulsion can be from about 5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 7, from about 5 to less than 7, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6.5, from about 5.5 to about 6.5, from about 5 to about 6 or from about 6 to about 7.5. EXAMPLES

[0200] An implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples are intended to illustrate the technology but are not intended to be exhaustive. Example 1

[0201] Composition A is a composition of the invention containing MycelX®. Composition B is identical to composition A, but does not include MycelX®. Composition A of the invention was prepared by first combining MycelX® (composition A), caprylic / capric triglyceride, surfactants (mRhamnolipid and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate), and ceramide, with only a small amount of water (approximately 15 to approximately 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the final cosmetic composition). A homogeneous composition was obtained, which was further diluted with water and gently mixed or agitated to form the final oil-in-water emulsion. Comparative composition B was prepared based on a standard preparation procedure for oil-in-water emulsions. The ingredients were combined, without generating a first composition, with a limited amount of water.The composition was processed using a high-speed Silverson homogenizer capable of generating fine droplets in the range of 2 to 5 microns. Although the compositions were subjected to the high-speed homogenization process, the droplet size of the resulting emulsions was greater than 1 micron.

[0202] [Tables2] Comparative Invention AB (a) MYCELX®1 0.5 (b) caprylic / capric triglyceride 0.3 0.3 (c) m-RHAMNOLIPID 0.6 0.6 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 0.2 0.2 (d) Ceramides 2 1 1 (e) Water QS QS Droplet Size by Dilution N 1:100 [nm] -150 nm > 4 pm Stable at 45 °C 2 months Yes No Young's Modulus Ecore by AFM (MPa) - 60-300 ND

[0203] 1 Product of the reaction of linseed oil and a methacrylate polymer isobutyl

[0204] 2 Mixture of ceramide-EOP, ceramide-NP and ceramide-EP

[0205] After the emulsions were formed, the compositions were further diluted to a ratio of 1:100 with water, and the droplet size was measured by Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS). DLS is a technique used to determine droplet size in a colloidal system or emulsion. A Brookhaven instrument was used to determine the particle size distribution in each sample. When the samples are illuminated with a monochromatic laser beam, the particles in the samples undergo Brownian motion, causing fluctuations in the intensity of the scattered light. The scattered light is then collected at different angles, and the autocorrelation function of these intensity fluctuations is analyzed.The analysis provides information on the particle diffusion rate, from which the size distribution is deduced using mathematical models. Brookhaven's DLS instruments use advanced algorithms to accurately interpret the data, providing information on the dynamic behavior and size characteristics of particles ranging from a few nanometers to several micrometers in a liquid medium.

[0206] Cryogenic scanning electron microscopy (Cryo-SEM) was used to visualize the droplets / spherical structures formed in Composition A of the invention. Cryo-SEM is a technique used to examine the ultrastructure of biological and other samples at cryogenic temperatures. It involves rapidly freezing the sample to preserve its native structure, transferring it to the SEM chamber while maintaining cryogenic conditions, and then imaging the sample surface using electrons. This process provides high-resolution images of samples while minimizing damage. by the beam and charge effects, making it suitable for various applications, including structural analysis, cell imaging, and the study of soft materials. An image of a spherical droplet / structures formed in composition A of the invention is shown in the figure.

[0207] Atomic force microscopy (AFM) is a high-resolution imaging and surface characterization technique used in nanoscience, materials science, and biology. AFM works by scanning a sharp tip (typically a few nanometers in diameter) attached to a flexible cantilever very close to the sample surface. The interaction forces between the tip and the sample surface cause the cantilever to deflect, and this deflection is measured to create high-resolution images and gather information about surface properties. AFM can provide topographic information at the nanoscale, measure mechanical properties, and even manipulate individual atoms and molecules on a surface. The droplets / spherical structures formed in Composition A of the invention were evaluated by AFM.They were smaller (< 1 micron) and more uniformly dispersed (monodispersed) than the droplets of comparative composition B, and they exhibited a soft shell and a hard core with an Ecore Young's modulus of ~ 60 to 300 MPa by AFM.

[0208] The preceding description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure presents and describes only the preferred embodiments, but as mentioned above, it should be understood that it can be used in various other combinations, modifications, and environments, and that it may undergo changes or modifications in the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, in accordance with the teachings above and / or the skills or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best known embodiments of the applicant and to enable other persons skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Consequently, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be interpreted as including other embodiments.

[0209] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0210] The terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular. Thus, the phrase "one of their mixtures" also refers to "their mixtures." Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "one of their mixtures" is used, following a list of items as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof." The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."

[0211] Similarly, the expression "one of their salts" also refers to "their salts." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an item selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, one of their salts, and a mixture thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0212] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. The appropriate counterions for the components described herein are known in art.

[0213] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0214] The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more”.

[0215] The term "transparent" in relation to a transparent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a UV-visible Lambda 40 spectrometer. Compositions may have, for example, a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a UV-visible Lambda 40 spectrometer. The term "clear" is interchangeable with the term "transparent" for the purposes of this disclosure. In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of this disclosure are transparent. This is due, at least in part, to the small size of the dispersed oil droplets.

[0216] The term "translucent" in relation to a translucent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 50% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are translucent. This is due, at least in part, to the small size of the dispersed oil droplets.

[0217] Except in operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all quantities expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may in all cases be modified by the term "approximately", meaning within + / - 5% of the stated amount. Thus, for a range "from approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight", the lower quantity "approximately 1% by weight" may extend to 0.95% by weight, which is 5% less than 1% by weight. The upper quantity "approximately 10% by weight" may extend to 10.5% by weight, which is 5% more than 10% by weight, i.e., a range of "0.95% by weight to 10.5% by weight".

[0218] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise stated.

[0219] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both an oily solvent and a surfactant. If a particular composition includes both an oily solvent and a surfactant, a single compound will serve only as an oily solvent or only as a surfactant (the single compound does not simultaneously serve as both an oily solvent and a surfactant).

[0220] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include every specific range within the given ranges, as well as every combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for inferring a subrange, etc.

[0221] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material at all. For example, if a composition is essentially free of compound X, the composition includes less than 2% by weight of compound X, or less than 1% by weight of compound X, or less than 0.5% by weight of compound X, or less than 0.1% by weight of compound X, or is free of compound X.

[0222] All components presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or " substantially free") of one or more components that are presented in a positive light in this disclosure.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a hydrophobic polymer formed as a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil and a methacrylate or acrylate polymer; preferably wherein the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of about 72 to about 77 parts by weight of the natural or food-grade oil and about 23 to about 28 parts by weight of a methacrylate polymer, and even more preferably wherein the hydrophobic polymer is the reaction product of linseed oil and poly(isobutyl methacrylate); (b) one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a); (c) one or more skin-active agents; (d) one or more surfactants; and (e) water; wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a) have a dispersion component (D), a polar component (P), a hydrogen bonding component (H) and a distance (Ra) less than or equal to 13.4 MPa0'5 according to the Hansen solubility parameters, wherein the distance (Ra) is defined by the formula (I): Ra^^D-üf + tP-P;)2 + ® in which -Dr is 16.8 MPa0'5, - Pr is 4.8 MPa0'5, and -Hr is 13.0 MPa05.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein at least one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the hydrophobic polymer of (a) is selected from polycitronellol acetate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more cutaneous active agents are selected from ceramides, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, niacinamide, caffeine, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or a combination thereof; and / or wherein one or more cutaneous active agents include at least one ceramide selected from ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide NH, ceramide AH, ceramide EOH, ceramide EOS, ceramide AdS, ceramide NdS, ceramide EOdS, or mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more of the cutaneous active agents is a lipophilic cutaneous active agent.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more biosurfactants are selected from glycolipids, wherein the biosurfactants are selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, trehalose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, or mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the one or more surfactants is an anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamates, acyl taurates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl etherphosphates, alkyl ethercarboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, or mixtures thereof, preferably wherein the anionic surfactants are an acyl taurate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion is a dispersion having a droplet size of about 10 nm to about 1 pm.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of a reaction product of a natural or food-grade oil selected from linseed oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, fish oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, or mixtures thereof, and a polymer formed from one or more monomers selected from methacrylate (a) isobutyl, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, and n-butyl methacrylate or mixtures thereof; (b) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more solvents capable of solubilizing the reaction product of (a); (c) one or more ceramides; (d) about 1 to about 10% by weight of a plurality of surfactants, wherein the plurality of surfactants comprises: (c)(i) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more rhamnolipids; and (c)(ii) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more additional surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and cationic surfactants; and (d) water; in which the composition has an average droplet size of about 10 nm to about 2 pm, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

10. A skin treatment method comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the skin.

Images