New nail polish comprising a lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown algae Undaria pinnatifida; its use in cosmetics and pharmacy

Abstract

Composition in the form of a nail polish consisting of: A nail polish base and A lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown algae Undaria pinnatifida in a mass proportion of between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass of said nail polish base and in which the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms; its use in cosmetics and pharmacy.

Description

Title of the invention: New nail polish comprising a lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida, its use in cosmetics and pharmacy Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention belongs to the fields of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It relates to a new nail varnish and its use for protecting nails against damage induced by the exposome. Biological and environmental contexts

[0002] The nail consists essentially of a hard, flat, rectangular plate, tightly connected to the nail bed. During the formation of the nail plate, the keratinocytes of the germinal matrix flatten due to the fragmentation of the cell nuclei and the condensation of their cytoplasm to form a flat plane of keratinized cells, the cell borders of which are demarcated (unlike hair).

[0003] Nail health results not only from internal factors such as age, genetics or nutrition, which influence the characteristics of the nails as they grow from the germinal matrix, but also from external factors such as environmental stresses, which influence the structure of the nail and its visual appearance.

[0004] At the molecular level, the differentiation of keratinocytes into corneocytes, associates the intermediate keratin filaments to form a complex scaffold that accumulates in the cytoplasm of terminally differentiating corneocytes and fills the entire interior of the cell to mainly provide the mechanical strength of the nails. The associated keratins are structurally organized in superimposed layers through a crosslinking process providing great cohesion to the overall structure of the nail plate. The crosslinking of the keratin filaments influences the characteristic properties of the nail plate, such as stability and strength.

[0005] Previous proteomic analyses of nails and hair have described a group of proteins, some of which are present only in the nail plate (keratins K5, K6A, K14, K17 and junctional proteins DSG1, EP-PC1). Keratins are the basic components of nails capable of self-assembly into filaments.

[0006] Damage to nails by external factors is associated with unaesthetic changes in their visual appearance due to changes physical and chemical structural changes resulting in weakness, brittleness, discoloration and streaking, among others.

[0007] Approximately twenty percent of the French population has fragile nails. This fragility is characterized by the appearance of cracks and different types of scales on the nail. Thus, the nails become soft and lose their elasticity.

[0008] Nail keratins are designated targets for detrimental modifications, such as carbonylation, due to their high degree of exposure to the external or internal environment (UV irradiation, pollution, chemical agents), which may partly explain the molecular basis of the physicochemical modifications resulting in fragile and therefore brittle nails.

[0009] An ex vivo experimental model on nails has been developed by the company Oxi-Proteomics, allowing the analysis of these modifications. A reduction in the mechanical forces of the nails is in fact observed following stress by the exposome. Thanks to a proteomic approach coupled with image analysis, the carbonylation of keratins can be identified and measured. Thus, chemical and physical stress induces oxidative damage to the structural proteins of corneocytes.

[0010] A significant increase in protein oxidation (carbonylation) is observed in nail keratins mainly following exposure to UVA and chemical agents. Since nails cannot be repaired in case of damage, the protection of their main proteins, from carbonylation, could be an effective approach to protect nails from oxidative stress induced by the exposome. The concept of exposome designates the accumulation of exposures to environmental factors (non-genetic) that nails undergo in particular, and which complements the effect of the genome. State of the art

[0011] There are numerous publications disclosing methods for strengthening or hardening weakened nails.

[0012] British patent application published under number GB 2 196 978 A discloses a nail varnish comprising glyoxal.

[0013] The European patent application published under number EP 1 408 917 A1 discloses a nail varnish comprising citral described as a nail hardener.

[0014] International application published under number WO 2021 / 234270 A1 discloses a cosmetic nail care composition comprising as cosmetic active ingredient an aqueous chestnut extract. This composition is described as improving the surface condition of the nail. Technical problem

[0015] As part of their research aimed at reducing damage caused to nails by the exposome, the inventors have developed for this purpose a new composition in the form of a nail polish. Statement of the invention

[0016] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a composition consisting of: A. A nail polish base and B. A lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown algae Undariapinnatifida in a mass proportion of between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass of said nail polish base and in which the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms.

[0017] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida is present in the composition as defined above in a mass proportion of between 0.5% by mass and 1% by mass of said nail polish base.

[0018] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the constituent solvent of said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida present in the composition as defined above, is a mixture of glyceryl tridecanoate and glyceryl trioctanoate.

[0019] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition as defined above, said nail polish base comprises for 100% of its mass:

[0020] Al) From 10% to 35% by mass of a film-forming agent or a mixture of film-forming agents,

[0021] A2) From 5% to 15% by mass of plasticizing agent or a mixture of plasticizing agents tifying, and

[0022] A3) From 50% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent or a mixture of solvents organic.

[0023] Said nail polish base more particularly further comprises for 100% of its mass:

[0024] A4) From 0.1% to 2% by mass of an auxiliary agent or a mixture of agents auxiliaries chosen from dyes and compounds absorbing ultraviolet rays.

[0025] In the context of the present invention, the components present in the nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above are suitable for use in a topical application to the nails.

[0026] According to a particular aspect of the present invention,

[0027] Al) the film-forming agent(s) present in the nail polish base are chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, polymers vinyls such as polyvinyl butyral, copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) and cellulosic polymers, such as nitrocellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose acetate butyrate or cellulose acetate propionate;

[0028] A2) the plasticizing agent(s) present in the nail polish base are chosen from the group consisting of glycerol carbonate, dilauryl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dibutyl phthalate, acetyl tributyl citrate, camphor, trimethylpentanediyl bibenzoate, glycerol benzoate and glycol esters such as neopentyl glycol or propylene glycol;

[0029] A3) the organic solvent(s) present in the nail polish base are chosen from the group consisting of ketones that are liquid at room temperature such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone, alcohols that are liquid at room temperature such as ethanol, isopropanol, or cyclohexanol, glycols that are liquid at room temperature such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or pentylene glycol, glycerol, carboxylic esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, butyl acetate or isopentyl acetate.

[0030] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida present in the composition as defined above is directly obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps: a. A step a) of preparing a hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undariapinnatifida by mixing, at a rate of five to thirty liters of alcohol per kilogram of biomass, an aqueous suspension of a biomass consisting of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undariapinnatifida, with an alcohol or a mixture of alcohols, chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; b. A step b) of mixing said hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undariapinnatifida obtained at the end of step a), with a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms, so that the mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida to mass of said mixture of fatty acid triglycerides whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms, is greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 10, to obtain a multiphase mixture; c. A step c) of adding water to said multiphase mixture obtained at the end of step b), so that the mass ratio: mass of ga- cells metophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida on water mass greater than or equal to 0.5% by mass and less than or equal to 2% by mass; d. A step d) of isolation of said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida from the mixture obtained in step c), by filtration then centrifugation of the filtrate; and if necessary e. A step e) of drying said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida obtained at the end of step d).

[0031] In the context of the present invention, the hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida used in step a) of the process as defined above, can be prepared by methods described in international publication WO 2016 / 135400.

[0032] According to a particular aspect of the composition as defined above, the alcohol used in step a) of the process for obtaining said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida is ethanol.

[0033] According to another particular aspect of the composition as defined above, said mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida to mass of said mixture of fatty acid triglycerides whose acyl chains comprise from eight to ten carbon atoms used in step b), is greater than or equal to 5 and less than or equal to 10, and is preferably approximately equal to 6.

[0034] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, said nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above, comprises for 100% of its mass, from 10% to 35% by mass a mixture of film-forming agents comprising for 100% of its mass: - From 65% to 75% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - From 25% to 35% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / mellitic acid anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), and - Optionally up to 0.35% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2).

[0035] According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, said nail varnish base constituting the composition as defined above, comprises for 100% of its mass, from 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7) or from 5% to 10% by mass of a mixture of plasticizing agents comprising for 100% of its mass: - From 98% to 99.9% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate and - From 0.1% to 2% by mass of trimethylpentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3).

[0036] According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, said nail polish base constituting the composition as defined above, comprises for 100% of its mass: from 60% to 80% by mass of a mixture of solvents comprising for 100% of its mass: - From 5% to 15% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0); - From 10% to 75% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), and - From 10% to 75% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6).

[0037] According to a very particular aspect of the present invention, said nail varnish base constituting the composition as defined above, comprises for 100% of its mass: - From 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6), - From 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), - From 5% to 10% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), - From 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - From 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7), - From 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0), - From 0.1% to 1% by mass of ethocrylene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5), - Optionally up to 0.1% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2),

[0038] The invention also relates to the use by topical administration of a lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida, to reduce the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being.

[0039] In the context of the present invention, the word exposome designates all environmental stresses capable of inducing oxidation of nail keratins.

[0040] Examples of environmental stress include irradiation by ultraviolet rays (UVA and / or UVB), pollution by fine particles, ozone, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, chemical agents or cigarette smoke.

[0041] According to a particular aspect of the invention, the subject of the invention is the use as defined above, for reducing the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, of human nails.

[0042] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being, comprising a step of applying to said nails the composition as defined above, and more particularly a non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation with ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, on the nails of a human being.

[0043] The invention finally relates to a composition as defined above, for its use to reduce damage caused by solar radiation, and more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, to the keratin structure of human nails. Example of embodiment of the invention

[0044] Effect of Undaria pinnatifida extract incorporated in nail polish base on the oxidation (carbonylation) of keratins induced by UVA ex vivo.

[0045] A lipid extract of Undaria pinnatifida in which the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is an equimass mixture of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tri-decanoate is mixed with a nail polish base consisting of the following components: - From 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6), - From 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), - From 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - From 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7), - From 5% to 10% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), - From 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0), - From 0.1% to 1% by mass of ethocrylene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5), - Up to 0.1% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2), - Up to 0.1% by mass of trimethyl pentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3), and - Violet dye (CI 60725) (CAS No. = 81-48-1).

[0046] Two nail polishes are thus prepared: - product A comprising said lipid extract of Undaria pinnatifida gametophytes in a mass proportion equal to 0.5% by mass of said nail polish base; - product B comprising said lipid extract of gametophytes of Undaria pinnatifida in a mass proportion equal to 1.0% by mass of said nail polish base;

[0047] Principle of the evaluation: Evaluation of the effects of UVA exposure on cut nails

[0048] Protocol: On day 0, the products are applied to clipped nails and left in contact until dry. Then a second application of the products is made and the products left in contact with the nails for five days. On day 5, the products are removed from the nails using a mild nail polish remover (commercial product), then the clipped nails are transferred to a Petri dish to dry. They are finally exposed (or not) to UV-A irradiation in an OxiProteomics™ chamber (6.8 J / cm2, 2.365 nm, LED source). The “Untreated control” and “Stressed control” groups » are also with the mild stripper solution. After the treatments, the nails are prepared, sampled and stored at -80°C until the analysis: OxiProteome Score™ is carried out.

[0049] OxiProteome Score™ Analysis: Clipped nails are subjected to protein extraction in aqueous buffer using the proprietary OxiProteomics™ method, optimized for nail proteins. Quantification of total proteins is performed by the Bradford method. Extracted proteins are distributed in equal amounts for each sample for subsequent analysis. Oxidized (carbonylated) proteins are labeled with a specific fluorescent probe and then separated by high-resolution electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE - 4%-20%). After their migration, total proteins are stained on gel with the fluorescent reagent SyproRuby™ (Life Technologies, USA). Digital image acquisition of carbonylated proteins and total proteins was performed using the “iBright” system (Thermofisher). Image processing and densitometric analysis were performed using “Image J” software.Carbonyl protein values ​​(Carbonyl Score) are obtained by normalizing the specific fluorescence signal to the total protein content. The carbonyl score for a sample X is equal to the ratio of the fluorescence value of the oxidized proteins in the sample to the fluorescence value of the total proteins in the same sample. A comparison of the obtained carbonyl scores as well as a statistical analysis according to the Student t-test (with p<0.05 as the limit of significance) are carried out in order to judge the significance of the results obtained.

[0050] Results obtained: The results obtained are recorded in Table 1 below:

[0051] [Table 11 [Tables 1] Carbonyl score Percentages of variation compared to: Samples J, Mean Standard deviation To control 1 To control 2 Untreated samples not subjected to UVA (control 1) 0.699 0.047 - - Untreated samples subjected to UVA J, 1.132 0.032 +61.8% - Samples treated with nail polish base alone and subjected to UVA (control 2) 0.958 0.021 +37.0% - Samples treated with product A and subjected to UVA 0.812 0.025 - -15.2% Samples treated with product B and subjected to UVA 0.456 0.015 - -52.4%

[0052] These results make it possible to highlight the following: - UVA irradiation of untreated nail samples increases the carbonyl score by 61.8% compared to unirradiated nail samples; UVA irradiation therefore has a deleterious oxidative effect on nail keratins; - Treatment of nails with the varnish base alone reduces the impact of UVA irradiation, without however avoiding the oxidation of keratins, the carbonyl score being always much higher than the untreated control (+37.0%); - Nail treatment with product A has a positive effect in that it reduces the carbonyl score compared to nails treated with the varnish base alone (-15.2%); - Treatment with product B completely inhibits the effect of irradiation by reducing the carbonyl score (-52.4%).

[0053] The presence of the lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown algae Undaria pin-natifida in the nail varnish in the claimed proportions therefore induces a technical advantage which is not obviously deducible from the state of the art.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition consisting of: A. A nail polish base and B. A lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida in a mass proportion of between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass of said nail polish base and in which the constituent solvent of said lipid extract is a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown algae Undaria pinnatifida is present therein in a mass proportion of between 0.5% by mass and 1% by mass of said nail polish base.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, in which the constituent solvent of said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida, is a mixture of glyceryl tridecanoate and glyceryl trioctanoate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which said nail polish base comprises for 100% of its mass: A1) From 10% to 35% by mass of a film-forming agent or a mixture of film-forming agents, A2) From 5% to 15% by mass of plasticizing agent or a mixture of plasticizing agents, and A3) From 50% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvents.

5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein said nail polish base further comprises for 100% of its mass: A4) From 0.1% to 2% by mass of an auxiliary agent or a mixture of auxiliary agents chosen from colorants and compounds absorbing ultraviolet rays.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida is directly obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps: a. A step a) of preparing a hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida by mixing, at a rate of five to thirty liters of alcohol per kilogram of biomass, an aqueous suspension of a biomass consisting of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida, with an alcohol or a mixture of alcohols, chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; b. A step b) of mixing said hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida obtained at the end of step a), with a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms, so that the mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida to mass of said mixture of fatty acid triglycerides whose acyl chains contain from eight to ten carbon atoms, is greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 10, to obtain a multiphase mixture c. A step cl of adding water to said multiphase mixture obtained at the end of step b), so that the mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida to mass of water is greater than or equal to 0.5% by mass and less than or equal to 2% by mass; d. A step d) of isolation of said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida from the mixture obtained in step c), by filtration then centrifugation of the filtrate; and if necessary e. A step e) of drying said lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida obtained at the end of step d).

7. Composition according to claim 6, in which the alcohol used in step a) is ethanol.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7, wherein said mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of the brown algae Undariapinnatifida on mass of said mixture of fatty acid triglycerides whose acyl chains comprise from eight to ten carbon atoms used in step b), is greater than or equal to 5 and less than or equal to 10, and is preferably approximately equal to 6.

9.

10.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 8, in which said nail polish base comprises, for 100% of its mass, from 10% to 35% by mass of a mixture of film-forming agents comprising, for 100% of its mass: From 65% to 75% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), From 25% to 35% by mass of a copolymer of adipic acid, neopentyl glycol and mellitic acid anhydride (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), and Optionally up to 0.35% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2). Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 9, in wherein said nail polish base comprises, for 100% of its mass, from 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7) or from 5% to 10% by mass of a mixture of plasticizing agents comprising, for 100% of its mass: From 98% to 99.9% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate and From 0.1% to 2% by mass of trimethylpentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3). Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 10, in wherein said nail polish base comprises, for 100% of its mass, from 60% to 80% by mass of a mixture of solvents comprising, for 100% of its mass: From 5% to 15% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0); From 10% to 75% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), and From 10% to 75% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6).

12. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 11, in which said nail polish base comprises for 100% of its mass: - From 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6), - From 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), - From 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0), - From 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetylcitrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7), - From 5% to 10% by mass of copolymer (adipic acid / neopentyl / glycol / trimellitic anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-7), - From 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0), - From 0.1% to 1% by mass of ethocrylene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5), - Optionally up to 0.1% by mass of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2), - Optionally up to 0.1% by mass of trimethyl pentanediyl bibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3), and - Optionally a colorant.

13. Use by topical administration of a lipid extract of gametophytes of the brown alga Undaria pinnatifida, to reduce the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being.

14. Use according to claim 13, for reducing the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, on the nails of a human being.

15. A non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by the exposome on the nails of a human being, comprising a step of applying to said nails the composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

16. Non-therapeutic method according to claim 15, for reducing the unsightly effects induced by solar radiation, more particularly by irradiation with ultraviolet A (UVA) rays of the nails of a human being.

17. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, for its use in reducing damage caused by solar radiation, and more particularly by irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, to the structure of the keratin of human nails.