Jewelry item

The jewelry clasp design with a blocker and ball ratchet mechanism addresses the challenge of secure and easy operation, enhancing security and usability.

FR3160859B1Active Publication Date: 2026-03-06RICHEMONT INTERNATIONAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024003535
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-04-05
Publication Date
2026-03-06
Estimated Expiration
2044-04-05

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing jewelry clasps face challenges in providing secure locking mechanisms that prevent accidental opening while maintaining ease of use, especially for small or delicate designs.

Method used

A jewelry clasp design featuring movable hooks actuated by buttons, with a blocker equipped with a stud that translates to prevent accidental opening and a ball ratchet for stable positioning, ensuring secure locking and easy operation.

Benefits of technology

Enhances security by preventing accidental opening and simplifying the operation of the clasp, maintaining aesthetic integration and ease of use.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

A jewelry article comprising: a cord defining a first end (100) and a second end (200), a clasp having a first part located at the first end and a second part located at the second end, said first part of the clasp having a pair of hooks (10a, 10b) movable between a locked position and a free position, said hooks being actuated by buttons (12a, 12b), said second part of the clasp having a pair of catches (20a, 20b), characterized in that the second end has a stopper (50) equipped with a stud (52), said stopper (50) being movable between a first position in which the stud is located within the travel of the buttons (12a, 12b), and a second position in which the stud is not located within the travel of the buttons. Figure for the abbreviation: Fig. 1
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Description

Title of the invention: Jewelry item Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of jewelry. It particularly concerns a piece of jewelry comprising a cord that can be opened, particularly for putting on or taking off the item, and that can be closed for wearing. Such an item may be, in particular, a bracelet, possibly a watch bracelet, or a necklace. State of the art

[0002] In the field of jewelry and watches, it is known and common to use clasps to allow the item, bracelet or necklace in particular, to be opened for putting on and taking off, when its size does not allow easy passage of the hand or head.

[0003] There is a wide variety of clasps, depending on the nature of the strand that forms the article, for example a carabiner type clasp for a chain, or a pin buckle for a flexible strand such as a leather or rubber bracelet.

[0004] When the two ends of the strand are intended to come together end to end and engage with each other, other types of clasps are known, for example, ratchet clasps, in which a V-shaped blade attached to one end fits into an opening at the other end of the strand. The V-shaped blade is elastically deformable and engages in the opening with a notch. A lever allows the blade to be actuated to release the notch and open the clasp.

[0005] A clasp is also known having a first part located at the first end of the strand and a second part located at the second end of said strand. The first part of the clasp comprises a pair of hooks movable between a locked position and a free position. The hooks are actuated by buttons located in the first end of the strand. The second part of the clasp comprises a pair of latches, each of which is capable of receiving one of the hooks of the pair of hooks when they are in the locked position and the second and first ends of the strand are engaged with each other, thus preventing them from disengaging. By actuating the buttons, the user can move the hooks outside the latches to separate the two parts of the clasp.

[0006] However, the locking position is essentially defined by the strength of the springs that hold the buttons and thus keep the hooks engaged in their respective strike plates. If the security of the clasp is to be improved, the spring can be reinforced. However, this may make operating the buttons difficult. particularly if they are small. Also, there is a risk of accidentally pressing the buttons and losing the item, which is obviously unfortunate, especially if the piece of jewelry is valuable. Description of the invention

[0007] The present invention aims to improve the security of the locking mechanism of a clasp on a jewelry item.

[0008] To this end, a first aspect of the invention relates to a jewelry item comprising: - a strand defining a longitudinal direction, a first end and a second end, said first and second ends being able to cooperate by longitudinal engagement to form a loop with the strand, - a clasp having a first part located at the first end of said strand and a second part located at the second end of said strand, said first part of the clasp having a pair of movable hooks between a locked position and a free position, said hooks being actuated by buttons housed in the first end, said second part of the clasp having a pair of latches each capable of receiving one of the hooks of the pair of hooks when the hooks are in the locked position and when the second end and the first end of the strand are engaged with each other, thus preventing their disengagement, characterized in that the second end further comprises a blocker equipped with a stud, said blocker being movable in translation between a first position in which the stud is located in the stroke of the buttons to prevent said hooks from occupying their free position, and a second position in which the stud is not located in the stroke of the buttons, allowing said hooks to occupy their free position.

[0009] According to one embodiment, said first position and second position of the blocker are stable.

[0010] According to one embodiment, the jewelry article includes a ball ratchet arranged to cooperate with the blocker to define and stabilize said first and second position of the blocker.

[0011] According to one embodiment, said ball ratchet is housed in the second end of the strand.

[0012] According to one embodiment, the blocker has an external surface, and, when in its first position, the external surface of the blocker is substantially aligned with the external wall of the strand, so that the blocker is integrated into the strand.

[0013] According to one embodiment, said buttons are actuated against a spring, which holds them against a stop in a rest position.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the buttons having an external surface, characterized in that, when in the rest position, the external surface of the buttons is substantially aligned with the external wall of the strand, so that the buttons are integrated into the strand.

[0015] According to one embodiment, said buttons are mobile in rotation around an axis, which is parallel to a translation axis of the blocker.

[0016] According to one embodiment, the jewelry article includes means for guiding the engagement of the first end and the second end.

[0017] According to one embodiment, the blocker is integral with gripping wings, extending outward from the strand. Description of the figures

[0018] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following detailed description of embodiment(s) of the invention given by way of non-limiting example(s) and illustrated by the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0019] [Fig. 1] is an isometric view of the two ends of the strand, the central part of which has been truncated, the two ends being separated;

[0020] [Fig.2] represents the same strands as [Fig.1], but in cross-section in a horizontal plane Vertical and top views;

[0021] [Fig.3] represents the same view as [Fig.2], but with the ends of the strand engaged in one another;

[0022] [Fig.4] is a cross-sectional view of the clasp, with the blocker in a different position of [Fig.5];

[0023] [Fig. 5] is a cross-sectional view of the clasp, with the blocker in a different position of [Fig.4].

[0024] Detailed description of embodiment(s)

[0025] In this application, the term jewellery is interpreted broadly and includes set articles, that is, jewelry articles. The article may or may not include a watch head. If the watch head joins two bracelet sections, the bracelet and the watch head are considered to form a strand defining the jewellery article.

[0026] Figure 1 shows the first end 100 and the second end 200 of a strand of a jewelry item according to the present invention. In Figure 1, the two ends of the strand are separated, corresponding to an open state of the strand. The central part of the strand that connects the two ends is not shown in the figures. The two ends are capable of cooperating with each other by ion- The strand is closed at the end (Fig. 3). The two strand ends close by aligning their tips and engaging locking elements, one end into the other, as described below. The strand, or at least its two ends, can lay flat in a longitudinal direction, and the strand ends engage along this longitudinal direction. It is understood that in the case of a flexible strand, the strand is taut to define this longitudinal direction.

[0027] The embodiment presented relates to a bracelet strand, at least the ends of which are of the link type or have rigid structures, allowing the assembly of moving parts. The invention could also be applied with a strand made of a flexible material, such as rubber or leather. In this case, in order to mount the moving components on a rigid frame, an insert will be integrated into the flexible strand, which will serve as a frame for the moving elements and other structural elements that will be described below. A flexible strand could also connect rigid ends, of the type illustrated in the figures.

[0028] The article according to the invention further comprises a clasp having a first part located at the first end 100 of said strand. This first part of the clasp has a pair of hooks 10a, 10b movable between a locked position and a free position. The hooks 10a, 10b are actuated by buttons 12a, 12b housed in the first end. Preferably, the hooks 10a, 10b are respectively integral with the buttons 12a, 12b, or even made in one piece with their respective buttons. They are pivotally mounted on a frame element located at the first end of the strand, along an axis perpendicular to a transverse plane of the strand. Without modifying the invention, buttons that are movable in translation could also be provided. Typically, the buttons 12a, 12b are intended to be actuated simultaneously by the thumb and forefinger of a user.Thus, for a bracelet, the designer of the item will advantageously provide that the buttons 12a, 12b are located on the lateral faces of the item, the back face being located on the side of the wearer's arm and the front face being opposite the back.

[0029] The buttons 12a, 12b are actuated against a spring 14, which holds them against a stop in a rest position. This spring may be of the butterfly type and act against the inner walls of the buttons 12a, 12b. Figures 2 and 3, which show the first hook 10a in the locked position, show that the associated button 12a is against a rigid element 16 located nearby. The second hook 10b is in the free position, with the associated button 12b depressed.

[0030] It can also be seen in these figures that, when in the rest position, the outer surface of the buttons 12a, 12b is substantially aligned with the outer wall of the strand, so that the buttons are integrated into the strand. In the embodiment As illustrated in the figures, the strand features a setting of stones, and the outer faces of the buttons have a similar setting, continuing the pattern of the strand. Thus, when buttons 12a and 12b are not activated, they are concealed and, if not invisible, discreet, with or without the setting.

[0031] The clasp also includes a second part located at the second end 200 of the strand. This second part of the clasp has a pair of catches 20a, 20b, each capable of receiving one of the hooks of the pair of hooks 10a, 10b. Each catch has a recess into which a portion of the hook can fit, and a rim 22 that delimits the recess. The hook 10a, 10b bears against the rim 22 on surfaces perpendicular to the longitudinal direction and ensures locking. Thus, when the hooks 10a, 10b are in the locked position and the first end 100 and the second end 200 of the strand are engaged with each other, they prevent disengagement from their respective catches 20a, 20b, particularly in the longitudinal direction.

[0032] When the hooks 10a, 10b are engaged in the strikes 20a, 20b, the spring 14 tends to keep the hooks in this position.

[0033] Inclined sides 18 may be provided at the entrance of the strikes and / or on the tips of the hooks, so that when the first end is engaged in the second, the resultant of the support forces between the inclined sides of the hooks and the strikes will bring the hooks back against the spring, so that they pass the rim and enter the housing.

[0034] We can see on [Fig.3], the two ends of the strand engaged in each other with, on the one hand, the first hook 10a engaged in its latch 20a, in the locking position, and the second hook 10b is in the free position, corresponding to an actuation of the button 12b, and is out of its latch 20b.

[0035] The ends of the strands 100, 200 may advantageously include means for guiding the engagement of the first end 100 and the second end 200. One of the ends, the first 100 in the illustrated example, is provided with tenons 19, two for example, projecting from the face of the first end 100, along the longitudinal direction. The other end 200 includes bores 25 dimensioned to receive the tenons 19 with a small clearance.

[0036] Advantageously, the end with the bores 25 includes a seat 27 that extends beyond the face of the strand, projecting towards the end with the tenons 19. The seat 27 defines a U-shaped wall against which the tenons 19 can bear with low precision, in order to engage them in the direction of the bores 25. When the ends of the strands are butted against each other, in the locked position, the seat 27 is positioned under the first end 100 of the strand, while the tenons 19 are in the bores 25, with a correspondence of perfect shape. Thus, thanks to this seat 27, the user does not have to aim to engage the tenons 19 in the bores 25, and the engagement of the two ends of the strand is much more natural.

[0037] According to the invention, the second end 200 of the bracelet strap further comprises a stopper 50, this stopper 50 being equipped with a locking pin 52. The stopper 50 is arranged at the second end of the strap so as to be movable in translation between a first position in which the pin 52 is located on or within the travel of the buttons 12a, 12b to prevent said hooks 10a, 10b from occupying their free position (the pin 52 forms an obstacle to prevent said hooks 10a, 10b from occupying their free position), and a second position in which the pin 50 does not interfere with the movement of the hooks 10a, 10b. In other words, the pin is not located on or within the travel of the buttons, thus allowing the hooks to occupy their free position. The axis of translation of the stopper 50 is advantageously parallel to the axes of rotation of the buttons.

[0038] Thus, when the first 100 and the second 200 ends of the strand are engaged in each other to form a loop, and the hooks 10a, 10b of the clasp are engaged in the catches 20a, 20b in their locking position, if the blocker 50 is in its first position, the hooks cannot be moved into their free position by acting on the buttons 12a, 12b, since pressure on the buttons is blocked by their butting against the stud 52.

[0039] The locking pin 52 is dimensioned so that the travel of the buttons 12a, 12b is less than the length of cooperation between a hook 10a, 10b and its strike plate 20a, 20b, to prevent the hook from disengaging from the strike plate. Preferably, as can be seen in [Fig. 3], the locking pin 52 is adjusted to hold the buttons 12a, 12b against the element 16 and the hooks 10a, 10b in their locked position. The inner face of the hooks intended to bear against the locking pin 52 advantageously has a profile corresponding to that of the locking pin, in order to have a larger contact surface and avoid the interaction of an edge with a plane. Still on [Fig.3], button 12a is represented, theoretically, in the activated position and we can see in the figure that there is indeed a collision between pin 52 and button 12a.

[0040] In this same configuration with both ends of the cord engaged, if the wearer of the item wishes to open it, the stopper 50 must first be pulled to move it into its second position, illustrated [Fig. 5]. At this point, the locking pin is no longer aligned with the buttons 12a, 12b, and these buttons can be actuated to move the hooks 10a, 10b, thus detaching the clasp and separating the two ends of the cord. Therefore, when the pin is in its second position, the stopper 50 provides a safety mechanism that prevents the item from being opened by an involuntary activation of the buttons.

[0041] It can be noted that in order to engage the first end 100 and the second end 200 of the strand, one into the other in order to close the bracelet, the blocker 50 must be in its second position to allow the hooks 10a, 10b to move in order to cross the rim 22 in order to take position in the catches 20a, 20b, under the effect of the spring 14.

[0042] Advantageously, the first and second positions of the blocker 50 are stable, which allows the user to have their hands free to operate the buttons, without having to hold the blocker 50 simultaneously when the blocker 50 is in its first position.

[0043] Preferably, and as illustrated in Figures 2 and 3, a ball ratchet 55 is arranged to cooperate with the stopper 50 to define and stabilize said first and second positions of the stopper 50. More particularly, the ball ratchet 55 is arranged in the second end of the strand, in a cavity disposed perpendicular to the axis of translation of the stopper 50 and opening opposite the stud. A ball is mounted in the cavity, dimensioned so as to be able to protrude outside the cavity, pushed against the opening by a spring 57 housed in the cavity. Preferably, the diameter of the opening does not allow the ball to completely exit the cavity. The portion of the ball protruding outside the cavity cooperates with one or the other of two grooves, made in the blocker 50. The two grooves are aligned along the axis of translation of the blocker 50.Thus, by being housed in one or the other of the recesses, the ball defines the first and second position of the blocker 50. The two recesses are separated by a threshold, which marks the passage between the two positions.

[0044] Other elastic systems can also be used to obtain a bistable system.

[0045] In terms of dimensions, it is preferable that, when in its initial position, the outer surface of the blocker 50 is substantially aligned with the outer wall of the strand, so that the blocker 50 is integrated into the strand. Thus, the blocker 50 remains discreet and does not alter the aesthetics of the strand. However, in order to make the blocker 50 perceptible and manipulable, two gripping wings 59 may be provided, projecting from the strand and attached to the blocker 50. These wings may be retractable, retracting into the volume of the strand and extending from their housing in response to pressure, for example. Industrial application

[0046] A jewellery article according to the present invention, and its manufacture, are capable of industrial application.

[0047] It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements obvious to a person skilled in the art can be made to the different embodiments of the invention described in this description without departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims

Demands

1. A jewelry article comprising: - a strand defining a longitudinal direction, a first end (100) and a second end (200), said first and second ends being able to cooperate by longitudinal engagement to form a loop with the strand, - a clasp having a first part located at the first end of said strand and a second part located at the second end of said strand, said first part of the clasp having a pair of hooks (10a, 10b) movable between a locked position and a free position, said hooks being actuable by buttons (12a, 12b) housed in the first end, said second part of the clasp having a pair of catches (20a, 20b) each capable of receiving one of the hooks of the pair of hooks when the hooks are in the locked position and when the second end and the first end of the strand are engaged with each other,thus preventing their disengagement, characterized in that the second end further comprises a blocker (50) provided with a stud (52), said blocker (50) being movable in translation between a first position in which the stud is located in the travel of the buttons (12a, 12b) to prevent said hooks (10a, 10b) from occupying their free position, and a second position in which the stud is not located in the travel of the buttons, allowing said hooks to occupy their free position.

2. Jewellery article according to claim 1, characterized in that said first position and second position of the blocker (50) are stable.

3. Jewellery article according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises a ball ratchet (55) arranged to cooperate with the blocker (50) to define and stabilize said first and second position of the blocker.

4. Jewellery article according to claim 3, characterized in that said ball ratchet (55) is housed in the second end (200) of the strand.

5. Jewellery article according to any one of the preceding claims, the blocker (50) having an external surface, characterized in that, when in its first position, the external surface of the blocker (50) is substantially aligned with the external wall of the strand, so that the blocker (50) is integrated into the strand.

6. Jewellery article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said buttons (12a, 12b) are actuable against a spring (14), which holds them against a stop in a rest position.

7. Jewellery article according to claim 6, the buttons (12a, 12b) having an external surface, characterized in that, when in the rest position, the external surface of the buttons (12a, 12b) is substantially aligned with the external wall of the strand, so that the buttons are integrated into the strand.

8. Jewellery article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said buttons (12a, 12b) are mobile in rotation about an axis, which is parallel to a translation axis of the blocker (50).

9. A jewellery article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises means for guiding the engagement of the first end and the second end.

10. Jewellery article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the blocker (50) is integral with gripping wings (59), extending in projection from the strand.