TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE AND TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE AND TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a transparent cosmetic composition comprising at least one beta-hydroxy acid; at least one alcohol; at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol; at least one hydrophilic polymer; at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and at least one hydrotrope. The present invention also relates to a stable transparent aqueous composition comprising a combination of beta-hydroxy acids. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: TRANSPARENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE AND TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. The present invention relates in particular to a transparent aqueous composition comprising hydroxy acids for the care and treatment of keratinous materials. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cosmetic products, preferably skin care and body care products, are the most sought-after cosmetic products in daily life. Consumers of various skin types and textures are looking for the products that best suit them and provide them with the most benefits. Thus, the market is flooded with various skin care products. However, these skin care products are not suitable for all skin types of consumers and do not meet consumers' expectations in terms of aesthetics, sensory and performance.

[0003] Formulating cosmetic compositions to meet the sensory and aesthetic requirements of consumers while exhibiting superior performance efficacy is demanding. In particular, there are challenges related to formulating transparent and stable skin care products with an increased amount of skin actives such as keratolytic agents. These keratolytic agents are generally lipophilic in nature and may solubilize with greater difficulty when introduced at increased concentrations into cosmetic compositions comprising a high water content. Indeed, keratolytic agents may crystallize and / or sediment, thus resulting in a decrease in their bioavailability and / or compositions lacking transparency.

[0004] Accordingly, there is a need in the state of the art to formulate a transparent aqueous cosmetic composition that could provide a superior sensory effect and superior performance in treating various skin-related problems such as acne, oil reduction, pore minimization and shine control, while imparting skin care.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is, for Therefore, it is essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. Summary of the invention

[0007] In one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a transparent composition comprising: a) at least one beta-hydroxy acid; b) at least one alcohol; c) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol; d) at least one hydrophilic polymer; e) at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f) at least one hydrotrope.

[0008] In another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of treating keratinous material, preferably skin, the method comprising applying a composition comprising: a) at least one beta-hydroxy acid; b) at least one alcohol; c) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol; d) at least one hydrophilic polymer; e) at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f) at least one hydrotrope, to the keratinous material, preferably skin.

[0009] In a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a composition comprising: a) at least one beta-hydroxy acid; b) at least one alcohol; c) at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol; d) at least one hydrophilic polymer; e) at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f) at least one hydrotrope, for treating acne and / or providing skin care.

[0010] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the appended claims. This summary is intended to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential characteristics of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present invention is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is understood that the present invention includes all such variations and modifications. The invention includes also all such steps, features, compositions and compounds designated or indicated in this patent specification, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of such steps or features.

[0012] Definitions

[0013] For convenience, before describing the present invention in more detail, certain terms used in the patent specification and examples are defined herein. These definitions should be read in light of the remainder of the invention and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those skilled in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.

[0014] The terms “include” and “comprising” are used in the inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. They are not intended to be interpreted as “consists solely of.”

[0015] The expression "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0016] Throughout this patent specification, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "comprise", and variations such as "comprises" and "comprising", shall be understood to imply the inclusion of a recited element or step or group of elements or steps, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.

[0017] The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to." "Including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.

[0018] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee to describe the ingredients of personal care products.

[0019] The term "aliphatic" refers to a linear or branched acyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group which may optionally include a heteroatom and is optionally substituted.

[0020] All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise indicated. Ratios, concentrations, amounts and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It is to be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and brevity and is to be flexibly interpreted as including not only the numerical values ​​explicitly cited as the limits of the range, but also as including all individual numerical values ​​or subranges encompassed within this range as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly cited. For example, a weight percentage range of about 0.01% to about 20% should be interpreted as including not only the explicitly cited limits of about 0.01% to about 20%, but also as including subranges, such as 0.02% to 0.05%, 1% to 10%, and so on, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 1.5%, 5.3%, and 9.25%, for example.

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meanings as those commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this invention pertains. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the invention, the preferred methods and materials are now described.

[0022] The present invention is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for exemplary purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the invention as described herein.

[0023] Embodiments herein provide a cosmetic composition, particularly a clear aqueous composition. The composition of the present invention provides care for keratinous material, particularly skin. The composition is useful for treating acne, minimizing pores, reducing sebum levels and / or reducing skin shine. In particular, the present invention provides an aqueous clear composition comprising beta-hydroxy acids, alcohol, polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, a hydrophilic polymer and a thickener. The composition of the present invention is stable and comprises a higher amount of beta-hydroxy acid in aqueous form. Thus, the beta-hydroxy acid is available to the skin in higher amounts, resulting in beneficial effects by providing superior sensory effects and performance.The composition of the present invention further provides improved sensory effects such as reduced stickiness and good flowability and also provides superior performance such as acne reduction, pore minimization, reduction of sebum levels and reduction of skin shine. Accordingly, the transparent composition of the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid, at least one alcohol, at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, at least one hydrophilic polymer, at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan, and at least one hydrotrope.

[0024] Embodiments herein also provide a method of treating keratinous material, preferably skin, by applying the composition on keratinous material, preferably skin. Embodiments relating to the use of the composition for providing care and treating keratinous material, preferably skin, are also provided herein. Composition

[0025] Embodiments herein provide a transparent composition comprising at least one beta-hydroxy acid, at least one alcohol, at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, at least one hydrophilic polymer, at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan, and at least one hydrotrope. The thickener of the composition also includes a phospholipid and / or a lysophospholipid.

[0026] The composition according to the embodiments herein is an aqueous, anti-acne, sebum controlling, pore minimizing composition having the advantages of providing a light, non-sticky, watery texture to the skin to which it is applied, and is a preferred cosmetic composition for consumers, preferably for consumers with acne, oily, and open-pore skin. Beta-hydroxy acid

[0027] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid.

[0028] The term "beta-hydroxy acid" according to the present invention refers to a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0029] In one embodiment, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives of formula (I):

[0030] in which, R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a certain number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and which may be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0031] R' is a hydroxy group or an ester functional group of formula (II): ----O---C---Ri (II) O

[0032] in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0033] In one embodiment, the composition comprises at least two beta-hydroxy acids selected from salicylic acid, its derivatives of formula (I), or combinations thereof.

[0034] In one embodiment, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives including 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least two beta-hydroxy acids selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, or 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid or a combination thereof.

[0037] In an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes a combination of salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid.

[0038] These beta-hydroxy acids are keratolytic agents, useful in particular for the treatment of acne and for improving the overall texture and quality of the skin.

[0039] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid which may be in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one beta-hydroxy acid which may be in an amount of 8.0% by weight or less, preferably 7.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the beta-hydroxy acid in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment, the salicylic acid in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the capryloyl salicylic acid in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 0.5%, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alcohol

[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alcohol.

[0045] The term "alcohol" according to the present invention refers to linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons with at least one hydroxyl group, or to dialkylenes with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0046] In one embodiment, the alcohol is selected from C1-C4 alcohols. In a preferred embodiment, the alcohol is ethanol.

[0047] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alcohol which may be in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one alcohol which may be in an amount of 20.0 wt% or less, preferably 15.0 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the alcohol in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene ^ycerol

[0051] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol.

[0052] In one embodiment, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is selected from the formula (III) shown below

[0053] Gly-{O(PO)s(EO)t-(BO)uH}3 (III)

[0054] in which, Gly denotes a residue obtained by elimination of hydroxyl groups from glycerin;

[0055] - PO denotes an oxypropylene group;

[0056] - EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

[0057] - s and t denote the average numbers of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the weight ratio between PO and EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1;

[0058] - BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and

[0059] - u denotes the average number of moles of BO addition, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.

[0060] In some embodiments, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is selected from formula (III)

[0061] - s ranges from 2 to 15, preferably from 3 to 7;

[0062] -1 ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 6 to 10;

[0063] - u ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.

[0064] The polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (III) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin in the ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide relative to glycerin, and then adding alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 molar equivalents thereof relative to glycerin.

[0065] In the case of adding the above-mentioned alkylene oxides to glycerin, the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like. In general, an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably employed.

[0066] In certain embodiments, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (III), is selected from those obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and then by adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol represented by formula (III) is PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and then adding 3 mol of butylene oxide.

[0068] PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin is commercially available under the trade name WILBRIDE S-753 from NOF Corporation.

[0069] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol which may be in an amount of 20.0 wt% or less, preferably 15.0 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0071] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic polymer

[0072] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer.

[0073] The term "hydrophilic polymer" refers to non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic polymers, preferably acrylic polymers.

[0074] In one embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer comprises at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in particular polymers obtained from an ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or partially or totally neutralized.

[0075] In some embodiments, the hydrophilic polymers are partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia, or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, e.g., arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.

[0076] The term “neutralized” refers to polymers that are completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e., at least 90% neutralized.

[0077] The hydrophilic polymers used in the composition generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0078] The hydrophilic polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The hydrophilic polymer is chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, which may be in partially or totally neutralized form.

[0079] In one embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer is chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, preferably from acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid or combinations thereof.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer is acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), more preferably 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS).

[0081] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic polymer which may be in an amount of 20.0 wt% or less, preferably 15.0 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickener

[0084] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan.

[0085] In one embodiment, the thickener in the composition is a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan.

[0086] In some embodiments, the thickener may comprise a phospholipid.

[0087] In some embodiments, the thickener may comprise a lysophospholipid.

[0088] Sclerotium gum is a very high molecular weight homopolysaccharide obtained by fermentation of a glucose-based substrate by the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfssii. The backbone of sclerotium gum is composed of [3-D] glucose residues linked by [3(1-3)] glycosidic bonds to a [3(1-6)-D-glucose] side chain every three glucose residues, which prevents chain aggregation. Sclerotium gum is also called sclerotium gum(s) or scleroglucan gum or scleroglucan and yields glucoses only after hydrolysis. Sclerotium gum is commercially available and, in particular, is marketed under the name ACTIGUM CS by SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES, and in particular ACTIGUM CS 11, and under the names AMIGEL and AMIGUM by ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL, or otherwise under the name Tinoderm SG-L by BASF. This sclerotium gum may also be modified, in particular by enzymatic treatments or by the use of modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the sclerotium gum is not modified.

[0089] In one embodiment, the sclerotium gum is present in an amount ranging from 15 to 85% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0090] The pullulan present in the thickener of the composition is a polysaccharide and is obtained by the fermentation of starch by Aureobasidium pullulans. The pullulan used in the composition is produced under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the Hayashibara group in Japan, or otherwise under the name Pullulan by Sigma-Aldrich.

[0091] In one embodiment, the pullulan is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0092] The xanthan gum present in the composition is a high molecular weight polysaccharide. The backbone of xanthan gum is formed of D-glucose units to which side chains are attached, one side chain for every two glucose residues. The side chain is composed of three sugars: α-D mannose, β-glucuronic acid and a terminal α-D mannose. These xanthan gums are obtained by the fermentation of a hydrocarbon substrate by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. The resulting mixture is purified with alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol), pressed, dried and ground. The resulting powder can be sterilized by irradiation or high pressure.Xanthan gum is commercially available and is marketed in particular under the names KELTROL, KELTROL T, KELTROL TF, KELTROL BT, KELTROL CG-BT, KELTROL RD, KELTROL CG by NUTRASWEET KELCO, or under the names RHODICARE S, RHODICARE H, RHODICARE XC by RHODIA CHIMIE, or under the name Satiaxane CX 91 by the Cargill Group, or under the name Rheocare XG by BASF. Xanthan gum can also be modified to facilitate its use. This type of gum (INCI name = dehydroxanthan gum) is marketed under the reference Amaze XT by Akzo Nobel. Other modified xanthan gums exist and can possibly be obtained, in particular by enzymatic treatments or by the use of modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the xanthan gum is not modified.

[0093] In one embodiment, the xanthan gum is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0094] The phospholipids and / or lysophospholipids present in the thickener are lecithin and / or lysolecithin. Lecithin can be obtained from various sources, in particular soybeans, sunflowers, milk, eggs, rice, corn and the like. Commercially available lecithins include Solec SF 10 from The Solae Company, Emulmetik 300 and Solec from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, or from Cargill, Natterman or Lipoid. Lecithins are generally obtained from oil which can be extracted from the seeds by pressing or using suitable solvents. Once the oil is obtained, the lecithin is extracted, for example, by degumming the oil. It can then be filtered. Advantageously, the lecithin contains at least 60% polar lipids insoluble in acetone. It contains various phospholipids, including phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, and phosphatidic acid.Hydrogenated lecithin can be obtained by various methods known per se. For example, according to one method that can be used, lecithin is dissolved in a solvent system and then hydrogenated for 1 to 20 hours under 10 to 200 kg / cm2 of hydrogen pressure at a temperature of 50-90 °C in the presence of a catalyst. Hydrogenation improves the stability of lecithin, particularly with regard to oxidation or other degradation. These hydrogenated lecithins are available from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the references Emulmetik 320, Emulmetik 950 (non-exhaustive list). Other hydrogenated lecithins are available from Natterman or Lipoid. As for lysolecithin, it can be obtained for example by enzymatic hydrolysis of phospholipids, thus leading to the elimination of one or two fatty acid chains. These methods are well known to those skilled in the art.Lysolecithin is also commercially available, particularly under the name SLP-LPC70 from Tsuji Oil Mill Co., Ltd, Kyowa lysolecithin from Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co., Ltd, or under the names Emulmetik 120, Emulmetik 350 and Emulmetik 355 from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0095] Preferably, the phospholipids and / or lysophospholipids are lecithin. Lecithin may be used in hydrogenated or unhydrogenated form, preferably unsaturated. Lecithin may also be in the form of lysolecithin. In a preferred embodiment, the thickener of the composition contains unsaturated lysolecithin. It may comprise unsaturated lysolecithin in purified form or in the form of a mixture with other phospholipids and / or lysophospholipids, in particular lecithin.

[0096] In one embodiment, the phospholipid is present in an amount ranging from 15 to 70% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickener.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the thickener is a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pullulan and phospholipid. In an even more preferred embodiment, the thickener is a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pullulan and lecithin.

[0098] In one embodiment, the thickener comprises a) 15 to 70% by weight of phospholipid; b) 15 to 85% by weight of sclerotium gum; c) 5 to 50% by weight of xanthan gum; and d) 5 to 30% by weight of pullulan.

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the thickener comprises a) 15 to 50% by weight of phospholipid; b) 15 to 45% by weight of sclerotium gum; c) 10 to 50% by weight of xanthan gum; and d) 5 to 20% by weight of pullulan. In a preferred embodiment, the thickener is the product SILGEL® marketed by LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS.

[0100] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener which may be in an amount of 20.0 wt% or less, preferably 15.0 wt% or less, and more preferably 10.0 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0102] In a preferred embodiment, the thickener in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, much more preferably from 0.1 to 5%, most preferably from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrotrope

[0103] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope.

[0104] In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more hydrotropes.

[0105] Most hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes substantially resemble surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a distinct class amphiphiles. Therefore, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well-organized self-associated structures, such as micelles, even at high concentration.

[0106] Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N,N -diethyl nicotinamide, iV-picolylnicotinamide, iV-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, Af-picolylacetamide 3,5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, benzoate sodium, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N, AM i met hy I acct ami de, A-methylacetamide and isoniazid.

[0107] Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerability restrictions. Hydrotropes suitable for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carbonic acid sodium salt), sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining skin effects and human toxicity. Although these hydrotropes are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other hydrotropes compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.In some cases, vitamin B3 is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinic alcohol, their esters or salts, or combinations thereof.

[0108] In one embodiment, the hydrotrope is chosen from vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea, or combinations thereof, preferably chosen from niacinamide, caffeine, or one of their combinations and more preferably niacinamide.

[0109] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope which may be in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope which may be in an amount of 20.0 wt% or less, preferably 15.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 10.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrotrope in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0112] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises water.

[0113] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention is an aqueous transparent composition.

[0114] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises water which may be in an amount of 60% by weight or more, and preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0115] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises water which may be in an amount of 95% by weight or less, and preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0116] In a preferred embodiment, the water in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 60 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycol

[0117] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may optionally comprise at least one glycol.

[0118] In one embodiment, the glycol particularly comprises glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, or combinations thereof.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment, the glycol in the composition is a combination of glycerin, dipropylene glycol and / or butylene glycol.

[0120] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycol which may be in an amount of 2% by weight or more, and preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycol which may be in an amount of 20% by weight or less, and preferably 15% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the glycol in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic additives

[0123] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may optionally comprise at least one cosmetic additive.

[0124] The expression “cosmetic additive” refers to cosmetically acceptable active ingredients, usually used in the field, particularly suitable for keratinous materials.

[0125] In one embodiment, the cosmetic additive may be skin care actives, emollients, carriers, adjuvants that are known in the art to be compatible with keratinous material and are cosmetically acceptable, for example, fillers or viscosity increasing agents, gelling agents, additional gums, additional resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, chelating agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV filtering agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers or collagen protectants, or combinations thereof.

[0126] The cosmetic additives, in various embodiments herein, may be independently present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0127] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight of a surfactant. In an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a surfactant. Preparation of the composition

[0128] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a process for preparing the composition. The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

[0129] The method comprises mixing the essential and optional components described above by any known method.

[0130] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be prepared by a process including the steps of: a) mixing at least one beta-hydroxy acid with water and optionally with at least one glycol and / or other cosmetic additives, and heating the mixture to a temperature in a range of 60 to 80°C; and b) sequentially adding at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, at least one thickener and at least one hydrophilic polymer, and cooling the mixture to a temperature in a range of 40 to 60°C. The process further includes adding at least one hydrotrope and lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, followed by mixing at least one alcohol, optionally at least one other beta-hydroxy acid, and optionally other cosmetic additives under stirring at a temperature in a range of 25 to 35°C, to obtain a homogeneous transparent composition.

[0131] The composition, according to the present invention, can be in various forms such as gel, solution, cream, serum or lotion.

[0132] The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 4.8 or more, and more preferably of 5 or more.

[0133] The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 5.4 or less, and more preferably of 5.2 or less.

[0134] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention has a pH in a range of 4.8 to 5.4.

[0135] The composition of the present invention is a transparent composition. The term "transparent composition" means a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 700 nm without scattering it, when said transparency is measured according to the method disclosed herein.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention transmits from 40% to 100% of light at a wavelength of 700 nm without scattering it.

[0137] The composition of the present invention has a viscosity in a range of 10 UD to 80 UD, preferably in a range of 10 to 20 UD, when said viscosity is measured according to the method disclosed herein. Method / Use of the composition

[0138] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a method of treating a keratinous material, the method comprising applying the composition of the present invention to the keratinous material, preferably the skin.

[0139] In certain embodiments, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of treating keratinous material, comprising applying the composition of the present invention to the keratinous material, preferably to the skin.

[0140] In another embodiment, the present invention provides the use of the composition for providing care and / or treating acne on the skin. The composition of the present invention provides improved hydration and lightening effects on the skin. Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is useful for minimize pores, reduce sebum levels and / or reduce skin shine. More advantageously, the composition of the present invention significantly reduces the visibility of fine lines and pores, and further improves skin plumpness, skin smoothness, radiance, clarity and hydration.

[0141] Although the subject matter has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain examples and implementations thereof, it is understood that other implementations are possible and included within the scope of the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0142] The invention will now be illustrated by working examples, which are intended to illustrate the operation of the invention and are not intended to restrictively impose limitations on the scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in practicing the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this invention is not limited to the particularly described compositions, methods, and experimental conditions, to the extent that such methods and conditions may apply. The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples.However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 Cosmetic composition

[0143] Composition Cl (according to the invention) was prepared by mixing the components sequentially in the specified weights (wt%) as listed in Table 1 below.

[0144] The components of phase A were mixed and heated to a temperature of 65 to 75 °C, then the components of phases B, C and D were successively mixed and stirred until homogeneity was obtained. The resulting mixture was cooled to a temperature of 45 to 60 °C, then the component of phase E was added. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature and to this cooled mixture, the components of phases F, G and H were then successively mixed at a temperature of 25 to 35 °C, to obtain a homogeneous composition.

[0145] Similarly, compositions C2, C3 and C4 were prepared using the corresponding weight components as listed in Table 1 below.

[0146] [Tables 1] Phase Components / INCI (% by weight) Cl C2 C3 C4 A Glycol Dipropylene glycol (Dipro pylene Glycol) 3 3 3 3 A Butylene glycol (Butylene Glycol) 3 3 3 3 A Glycerin (Glycerin) 5 5 5 5 A Beta-hydroxy acid Salicylic acid (Salicyl ic Acid) 2 2 2 2 A Water 68.7 68.9 68.4 68.4 A Chelating agent 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 A Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B pH regulator 0.59 0.59 0.59 0.59 C Polyoxybutylene P olyoxyethylene Po lyoxypropylene G1 ycerol PEG / PPG / Polybutylene g lycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin (PE G / PPG / Polybutylene Glyc ol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin) 2 2 2 2 D Hydrophilic polymer Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (AMPS) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 D Thickener Xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum) - 0.1 0.1 0.1 D Hydroxypropyl guar (Hy droxypropyl guar) - - 0.5 - D Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) lecithin (Sodi um Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin) - - - 0.5 D Xanthan gum (and) sclerotium gum (and) lecithin (and) pullulan (Xanthan Gum (And) Sclerotium Gum (And) Lecithin (And ) Pullulan) 0,23 E Hydrotrope Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 , F Active (cosmetic additive) 4.81 4.81 4.81 4.81 G Cosmetic additive Perfume (Fragrance) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 H Alcohol Ethanol 7 7 7 7 H Beta-hydroxy acid Capryloyl salicylic acid (Capryloyl salicylic acid) 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Example 2 Composition assessment

[0147] The compositions prepared in Example 1 were subjected to a series of evaluations to measure their pH, transparency, viscosity and sticky texture. The performance of the compositions was also measured by determining skin color, skin hydration and reduction in sebum levels. Transparency of the composition

[0148] The transparency of the compositions was determined by measuring the transmittance using a UV-Vis 1800 spectrophotometer (Shimadzu) and the measurement method is as follows.

[0149] The undiluted sample composition was poured into a square spectrophotometer cuvette with a side length of 10 mm and the light transmitted through the sample composition was measured using the spectrophotometer at a wavelength of 700 nm. The measurement was carried out in transmission mode and the percentage of light transmitted through the sample composition at a wavelength of 700 nm was then determined. A reference baseline was established with distilled water. The composition under test was considered transparent when the transmittance reached at least 40%, preferably at least 50% of light at a wavelength of 700 nm without scattering it. Viscosity measurements

[0150] The viscosity of the compositions was measured using a Rhéomat 200 PLUS viscometer equipped with a measuring system comprising a spindle 2 (M2) and its corresponding cup, and a thermostatically controlled bath.

[0151] The measurement was carried out as follows: Spindle 2 was installed in the viscometer and the machine was set to zero. The cup was filled with the composition under test and then positioned in the thermostatically controlled bath. Spindle 2 was then immersed in the cup, and the temperature was increased to 25 °C. The viscosity measurement was carried out when Spindle 2 reached the correct temperature. The measurement was recorded after 10 min. Sticky Texture Assessment

[0152] 0.1 mL of the test composition was applied to half of the faces of the trained consumers from the panel (16 women). The stickiness was assessed immediately after product application and 2 minutes after application. The stickiness level was rated on a scale of 0 to 15, with 15 being the stickiest. Performance evaluation

[0153] A study was conducted on 60 women aged 20 to 40 years, all ethnicities combined. The subjects participated in a baseline visit on D0, then in 3 additional visits on D7 (7 days), D14 (14 days) and D28 (28 days - end of the study). After the baseline visit, the subjects applied the composition according to the invention once a day (at night): after washing their face with a regular facial cleanser and patting it dry, the subjects applied the composition according to the invention evenly with their index finger using circular movements for approximately 1 min or until the composition was completely absorbed by the skin.

[0154] During each visit (D0, D7, D14, D28) and before any assessment, the subjects washed their face with water only and without applying any product to the face before the visit. The subjects were then acclimatized for at least 15 minutes at a temperature of 20 to 23 °C and a humidity of 40 to 60%.

[0155] The skin condition of the subjects' facial skin was then assessed by an investigator, and a clinical score was assigned to the following parameters: fine lines, skin plumpness, skin hydration, skin smoothness, shine (visual), radiance and radiance, skin clarity, and pore visibility. Each parameter was scored on a scale from 0 to 9.

[0156] In addition, the subject's occasional skin sebum level was measured using a Sebumeter® SM 815 (Courage & Khazaka) on the forehead, which allows skin sebum to be measured using a special sebum-sensitive tape that becomes transparent upon contact with skin sebum (measurement based on photometry of grease stains).

[0157] Skin color was measured using a Minolta CM700d Spectrocolorimeter®, using the L*a*b* color system (CIE lab 1976). Skin moisture level was measured using a Corneometer® CM825 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany), to determine the moisture level of the outermost skin layers of the stratum corneum. Results

[0158] Compositions C1 (according to the invention) and C2-C4 (comparative) all proved to be transparent and to have a viscosity of between 10 and 20 UD.

[0159] Nevertheless, the composition Cl according to the invention proved to be slippery during application and not sticky after application, while the compositions Comparative C2-C4 were considered sticky during and / or after application.

[0160] Furthermore, composition C1 according to the invention was considered to be more aqueous and resulted in a rapid absorption sensation on the skin, while comparative compositions C2-C4 showed slower absorption on the skin.

[0161] The pH of composition Cl was further measured and found to be in the pH range of 4.8 to 5.4.

[0162] Further evaluations conducted on Composition C1 demonstrated that said composition was capable of treating acne while providing improved hydration to the skin. Composition C1 was also found to be effective in reducing the visibility of fine lines and pores, reducing sebum levels and reducing skin shine. Finally, Composition C1 was found to significantly improve skin plumping, skin smoothness, radiance, clarity and hydration.

Claims

1. Claims Transparent composition comprising: a. at least one beta-hydroxy acid, preferably chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives of formula (I): wherein, R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and which may be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R' is a hydroxy group or an ester functional group of formula (II): --o—c—R^n) O in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; b. at least one C1-C4 alcohol, preferably ethanol; c. at least one polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, selected from the formula (III) indicated below Gly-{O(PO)s(EO)t-(BO)uH}3 (III) in which, - Gly denotes a residue obtained by elimination of hydroxyl groups from glycerin; - PO denotes an oxypropylene group; - EO denotes an oxyethylene group; - s and t denote the average number of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the weight ratio between PO and EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1; - BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and - u denotes the average number of moles of addition of BO, and ranges from 0.5 to 5; d. at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, preferably from acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, or combinations thereof; e. at least one thickener comprising a combination of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and pullulan; and f.at least one hydrotrope selected from vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea, or combinations thereof, and preferably selected from niacinamide, caffeine, or one of their combinations.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the thickener comprises a) 15 to 50% by weight of phospholipid; b) 15 to 45% by weight of sclerotium gum; c) 10 to 50% by weight of xanthan gum; and d) 5 to 20% by weight of pullulan.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, in which the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the beta-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophilic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, preferably the skin, the process comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous material, preferably the skin.