Use of Aureobasidium pullulans extract alone or in combination with C-glycosides as a cosmetic active ingredient

Aureobasidium pullulans yeast extract, combined with C-glycosides, addresses the need for natural anti-aging and barrier-enhancing cosmetic ingredients, effectively improving skin quality and appearance by enhancing barrier function and reducing signs of aging.

JP2026502088APending Publication Date: 2026-01-21LOREAL SA
View PDF 16 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
JP2025533482
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-12-14
Filing Date
2023-12-13
Publication Date
2026-01-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

There is a need for natural and environmentally friendly cosmetic active ingredients that can effectively combat skin aging and strengthen the skin's barrier function, while meeting current consumer demands for eco-friendly products.

Method used

The use of an extract from the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans yeast, containing at least 25% sugars by weight, either alone or combined with C-glycosides, to improve and/or strengthen the skin's barrier function and combat signs of aging.

Benefits of technology

The extract enhances the skin's barrier function, maintaining extensibility, tension, firmness, suppleness, and elasticity, and improves skin appearance by reducing wrinkles and improving radiance and complexion.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure 2026502088000001
    Figure 2026502088000001
  • Figure 2026502088000002
    Figure 2026502088000002
  • Figure 2026502088000003
    Figure 2026502088000003
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of the biomass of at least one yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, characterized in that the extract contains at least 25% by weight of sugars based on the dry matter of the extract, as a cosmetic active ingredient in a use or composition comprising the same.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care for keratinous materials, in particular the anti-ageing care of keratinous materials, and is especially directed to improving and / or strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" denotes in particular the skin, lips and / or eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, including the skin of the scalp, more preferentially the skin of the face. [Background technology]

[0003] Human skin is known to consist of two tissues: the superficial tissue (epidermis) and the deeper tissue (dermis).

[0004] Skin aging is caused by the effects of internal and external factors on the skin. During the aging process, adverse changes in the structure and function of the skin appear. The main clinical signs resulting from these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, which are caused by sagging and loss of tissue elasticity.

[0005] Moreover, intrinsic ageing, which causes changes in the skin, in particular delays the renewal of skin cells, which is essentially reflected by the appearance of adverse clinical changes, such as a decrease in subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of shallow wrinkles or fine lines, as well as by an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, a decrease in the longitudinal fibers of the membranes of the elastic tissue, and histopathological changes, such as the presence of large, irregular fibroblasts within the cells of this elastic tissue.

[0006] The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: keratinocytes, which form the majority of the epidermis, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these three cell types, through its unique function, contributes to the essential role played by the skin in the body, in particular to its role of protecting the body from external aggressors (weather, UV rays, smoke, etc.), also known as the "barrier function".

[0007] In general, the skin is an organ that has essential physical barrier functions, inter alia, preventing water loss from the body to the outside and preventing external factors from penetrating into the inside.

[0008] The stratum corneum, produced by normal differentiation in healthy skin, fulfills the epidermis' most important role as a barrier. The primary cells of the epidermis are keratinocytes, which are divided into four layers according to their level of differentiation and express various structural proteins. Corneodesmosomes are expressed in the upper spinous and granular layers, where they are stored within the lamellae and secreted extracellularly to connect keratinocytes. Lipids contained in the lamellae of epidermal keratinocytes at the boundary between the stratum corneum and granular layers are secreted between keratinocytes, forming lipid cell envelopes between keratinocytes. This acts as a permeability barrier for the epidermis in the form of a "brick and mortar" structure, enclosing the intercellular lipid layer.

[0009] When epidermal keratinocytes reach the stratum granulosum, they synthesize keratohyalin granules containing profilaggrin and loricrin. Covalent cross-linking of component proteins, such as involucrin and loricrin, requires transglutaminase (TGase), a calcium-dependent enzyme that catalyzes the formation of intermolecular isopeptide bonds between proteins. Of the nine TGases identified in humans, TGases 1, 3, and 5 are known to be involved in the formation of the cornified membrane. Both TGases 1 and 3 are activated by limited proteolysis during keratinocyte differentiation. These enzymes contribute to the sequential cross-linking of the matrix in a cooperative manner.

[0010] When epidermal keratinocyte differentiation is abnormal, it leads to defects in the skin's barrier function and skin dehydration, as well as damaged skin.

[0011] Tight junctions are of particular interest because they are located at the center of this complex barrier system in the outermost viable layers (the granular layer of the interfollicular epidermis and the companion cell layer of the hair follicle) and because they can respond very rapidly to stimuli.

[0012] Tight junctions are organelles important for the development and function of most vertebrate organ systems because they allow epithelia and endothelia to create fluid compartments with different compositions.

[0013] Tight junctions form a continuous permeability barrier between adjacent cells that regulates the flow of molecules through the paracellular space.

[0014] This forms the closest contact between adjacent cells known in nature, so close that it was once thought to be a fusion between the outer leaflets of adjacent bilayers. It is now known that this is not an absolute cleft, but rather contains discrete ion-selective pores through the extracellular portion of the junction.

[0015] The extracellular portion of the tight junction must perform two main tasks: to form extremely tight cell-cell adhesions that seal off regions of the extracellular space, and to create tunable pores for selective molecular screening.

[0016] In the prior art, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans is essentially used to ferment organic animals or plants or to produce the specific polysaccharide pullulan.

[0017] Cosmetic compositions containing A. pullulans culture supernatant or plant extracts fermented by A. pullulans are also known, but there are no teachings describing the use of an A. pullulans extract containing at least 25% sugars according to the present invention, in particular for the anti-aging effect and / or the effect of improving and / or strengthening the skin's barrier function.

[0018] The applicant has very surprisingly discovered that the use of a biomass, more particularly an extract of the biomass of the yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, in particular that identified in the microflora of rose bushes growing on the Valensole plateau in France, is of greatest interest as a cosmetic active ingredient, more particularly as a cosmetic active ingredient in the field of the care of keratinous materials, in particular as a cosmetic active ingredient for combating the signs of skin ageing and for improving and / or strengthening the skin's barrier function.

[0019] Thus, the applicant has very surprisingly discovered that a combination comprising at least one extract of a biomass of a yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one C-glycoside makes it possible to effectively inhibit the signs of skin ageing and to improve and / or strengthen the skin's barrier function.

[0020] Thus, as illustrated in the following examples, the extract of this Aureobasidium pullulans yeast biomass, either by itself or in combination with C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - cellular senescence in the epidermal compartment, - Migration of senescent keratinocytes, - Tight junctions, and - Keratinocyte differentiation has been demonstrated to be effective against , which has not been previously described.

[0021] These efficiencies help strengthen the skin barrier, which contributes to the surface quality of the skin in terms of radiance, evenness of complexion, and smooth, soft skin.

[0022] This extract of the yeast biomass of the Aureobasidium pullulans species and this combination also find use in compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, intended for the prevention and / or treatment of signs of skin aging, preferably skin signs associated with skin showing impairments in its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, skin showing impairments in its tissue cohesion, thinning skin, wrinkled skin and / or skin showing impairments in its surface appearance. The extract and this combination are preferably used topically.

[0023] This extract of the biomass of the yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and likewise this combination may more particularly enable the extensibility, tension, firmness, suppleness, density and / or elastic properties of the skin to be maintained and / or restored.

[0024] Finally, the formulation of environmentally compatible cosmetics has become a major challenge to meet new consumer expectations, especially with regard to natural and / or eco-friendly products, i.e., products whose design and development take into account environmental impact.

[0025] It is therefore common practice to try to replace synthetic or environmentally unfriendly compounds present in cosmetic compositions with natural and / or naturally occurring ingredients. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0026] [Patent Document 1] US2020 / 0178431 [Patent Document 2] WO2008 / 155059 [Non-patent literature]

[0027] [Non-Patent Document 1] Varelas V. et al., Drug Test Anal. January 2016 [Non-patent document 2] Du L. et al., Molecules. January 23, 2020 [Non-patent document 3] “β-Glucan derived from Aureobasidium pullulans is effective for the prevention of influenza in mice”, Muramatsu D, Iwai A, Aoki S, Uchiyama H, Kawata K, Nakayama Y, Nikawa Y, Kusano K, Okabe M, Miyazaki T, PLoS One. 2012. [Non-patent document 4] Dubois M. et al., Analytical Chemistry, 28, 3, pp. 350-356, 1956. [Non-Patent Document 5] Official method of analysis of the AOC, 12th ed., W Horwitz, ED, New York, pp. 15-60, 1975. [Non-patent document 6] Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, pp. 265-275, 1951 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0028] Therefore, there remains a need for cosmetic active ingredients that are natural and / or of natural origin and that can be used in cosmetic compositions alone or in combination with other cosmetic active ingredients, in particular for combating skin aging, and in particular for improving and / or strengthening the skin's barrier function.

[0029] There also remains a need to have compositions that meet current consumer demands, particularly with regard to the environment.

[0030] The present invention is directed, inter alia, to meeting all or some of these needs. [Means for solving the problem]

[0031] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention proposes the use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of the biomass of at least one yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, characterized in that the extract contains at least 25% by weight of sugars of the dry matter of the extract, as a cosmetic active ingredient in a use or in a composition comprising the same.

[0032] According to another aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, in particular a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular at least one extract of a biomass of a yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, as defined below, and in particular at least one C-glycoside, as defined below, present in a mass ratio as defined below.

[0033] The compositions according to the invention are used in particular for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing and / or for strengthening and / or improving the skin's barrier function.

[0034] Finally, according to another aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for keratinous materials, comprising at least one step of applying, on said keratinous materials, preferably on the skin, a composition as defined above and detailed below.

[0035] Cosmetic methods for the care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, are non-therapeutic.

[0036] The present application therefore also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for combating the signs of skin ageing and / or for strengthening and / or improving the skin's barrier function.

[0037] The term "biomechanical properties of the skin" as used herein refers to the extensibility, tautness, firmness, suppleness and / or elastic properties of the skin.

[0038] The term "signs of skin ageing" means herein any change in the appearance of the skin due to ageing, whether chronobiological and / or extrinsic ageing, in particular photoinduced or hormonal ageing, between which it is possible to distinguish: - wrinkled skin, especially reflected by the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, - skin that exhibits impairment of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, reflected in particular by shriveled, loose, loose or drooping skin, or skin that exhibits a lack of elasticity and / or extensibility and / or firmness and / or suppleness and / or tonicity, - skin showing disturbances in the cohesion of its tissues, - Thinning skin, as well as - Skin that exhibits a disturbance in the appearance of its surface, reflected in particular by a disturbance in the texture, for example roughness.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, "Aureobasidium pullulans" means any yeast of the family Dothioraceae, of the genus Aureobasidium, of the species Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0040] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0041] Aureobasidium pullulans extract The yeast Aureobasidium pullulans, also known as black yeast, is a ubiquitous, multi-extremotolerant fungus that occurs either as a filamentous fungus or in a unicellular form. A. pullulans is well known as a natural epiphyte of many plant species, including apple and grape. For several years, it has been used in biotechnology for the production of several enzymes and for eradicating certain plant diseases, such as the apple aphid.

[0042] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention therefore comprises at least one extract derived from the biomass of a yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, which extract comprises at least 25% by weight of sugars in the dry matter of the extract.

[0043] Advantageously, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans can be obtained from roses, preferably growing on the Valensole plateau (France), and more preferentially, the yeast is obtained from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of Rosa sp.

[0044] Preferably, Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from rose bushes (Rosa spp.).

[0045] The genus Rosa comprises more than 200 species, among which Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica, Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa, Rosa tomentosa, Rosa villosa and Rosa floribunda can be mentioned.

[0046] More preferentially, Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from hybrid roses, such as those of the species Rosa floribunda, and even better from hybrid roses of the cultivar Rosa floribunda delflobla, in particular that sold under the trade name Rose Lancome® by Delbard (France), which cultivar Rosa floribunda delflobla is also described in US2020 / 0178431.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans according to the invention is not genetically engineered.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans according to the invention is derived from the strain registered in the Collection of Yeasts (CIRM) under CLIB number 2138 on January 13, 2021.

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Aureobasidium pullulans extract" refers to an extract containing at least one set of molecules, preferably an extract of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans, obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art, such as induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, chemical hydrolysis, or enzymatic hydrolysis, and containing at least sugars that account for at least 25% by weight of the dry matter relative to the total mass of the extract. Such extraction methods are described in the publications Varelas V. et al., Drug Test Anal., January 2016, and Du L. et al., Molecules., January 23, 2020.

[0050] The extract according to the present invention is not an extract of the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0051] For purposes of the present invention, the term "yeast culture supernatant extract" refers to an extract that is not an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans culture biomass.

[0052] According to one embodiment, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans is ubiquitous and therefore may be present in several plant species. Preferentially, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast is isolated from rose bushes, more preferentially from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of Rosa species.

[0053] Aureobasidium pullulans biomass is produced, in particular, from the yeast obtained above. This process is carried out in a medium suitable for its growth, e.g., a suitable medium, according to a yeast culture method, in a manner familiar to those skilled in the art. Examples of suitable media for culturing Aureobasidium pullulans biomass are listed in "β-Glucan derived from Aureobasidium pullulans is effective for the prevention of influenza in mice," Muramatsu D, Iwai A, Aoki S, Uchiyama H, Kawata K, Nakayama Y, Nikawa Y, Kusano K, Okabe M, Miyazaki T, PLoS One. 2012. Preferably, a suitable culture contains at least one carbon source, such as a carbohydrate, and at least one nitrogen source. Preferably, the cultivation of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass is carried out at a temperature between 20°C and 30°C. Once the biomass is obtained, an extraction process is carried out to obtain an extract of active molecules, preferentially sugars.

[0054] The extract according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of sugars based on the dry matter of the extract. The extract according to the invention may also contain peptides and mineral ash.

[0055] Thus, the extract according to the invention comprises sugars that represent at least 25% of the extract by weight of the dry matter of the extract.Preferentially, the extract according to the invention comprises at least 45% by weight of the dry matter of the extract by sugars.

[0056] The total sugar content in the cosmetic active ingredient can be determined by the Dubois method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical Chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The total sugar content in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention is expressed as a percentage of dry matter.

[0057] The size of the sugars present in the extract can be characterized by HPLC / RI chromatography, either in the form of monosaccharides or oligosaccharides, preferentially with oligosaccharides having a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

[0058] Particularly preferably, oligosaccharides predominate in the extract according to the invention.Finally, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the sugars of the extract consist of at least 80% by weight of oligosaccharides of the sugar dry matter.

[0059] Preferentially, the oligosaccharides in the extract are alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides.

[0060] Alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligomers consisting of D-glucose linked by alpha bonds. These oligosaccharides present in the cosmetic active ingredients according to the invention may have a degree of polymerization (DP) of between 2 and 10 units.

[0061] Furthermore, these oligosaccharides may have a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons. Preferentially, they occupy between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0062] Beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligosaccharides consisting of D-glucose linked by beta bonds. These oligosaccharides present in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention have a degree of polymerization between 2 and 10 units and a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons. Preferentially, they occupy between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0063] Thus, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises sugars with an oligosaccharide structure having a degree of polymerization (DP) of less than 10, ie a molar mass of less than 1800 Daltons.

[0064] The extract according to the present invention also contains peptides. Preferentially, these represent at least 30% by weight of the dry matter of the extract. The peptide content can be determined by measuring the total nitrogen content according to the Kjeldhal method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC, 12th ed., W. Horwitz, ED., New York, pp. 15-60, 1975). Peptides have a molar mass of less than 2000 Da. The distribution and molar mass of peptides can be determined by FPLC (fast protein liquid chromatography), and the amount of each peptide fraction is determined by spectrophotometric quantification using the Lowry method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, pp. 265-275, 1951).

[0065] When the extract according to the invention contains mineral ash, the ash content is preferentially between 8% and 18% by weight, and even more preferentially between 10% and 15% by weight, based on the dry matter of the extract. The crude ash content can be determined by weighing the residue obtained after ashing the sample in a muffle furnace at 550°C. The nature of the minerals contained in the ash can be determined by optical emission spectroscopy (ICP / OES). The chloride ions contained in the ash are determined by titration with silver nitrate. Preferentially, the mineral ash contained in the extract according to the invention contains calcium, phosphorus, chloride ions, magnesium, sulfur and sodium.

[0066] The dry matter content of the extract can be determined by drying the extract according to the invention in an oven at 105°C until a constant mass is obtained and weighing the residue obtained. Preferentially, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of between 10 g / L and 40 g / L, even more preferentially between 17 g / L and 26 g / L.

[0067] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention may be in liquid or solid form.

[0068] When in liquid form, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention is preferably the extract itself. It is in the form of a clear, very pale yellow liquid with a slight odor. However, it may be colored and / or bleached by any method known to those skilled in the art. The cosmetic active ingredient may also be combined with a stabilizer or preservative.

[0069] In solid form, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention preferably consists of the aforementioned Aureobasidium pullulans extract and a carrier selected from maltodextrin, gum arabic, soya lecithin or isomalt. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the extract accounts for at least 10% by weight of the cosmetic active ingredient, and the carrier accounts for up to 90% by weight of the cosmetic active ingredient.

[0070] When the cosmetically active ingredient is in a solid form combined with a carrier, the protein, sugar and ash contents in the cosmetically active ingredient are adjusted, and the carrier generally consists mainly of sugar.

[0071] The cosmetic active ingredients according to the invention can optionally be incorporated into cosmetic compositions for use according to the invention, in particular compositions comprising at least 0.0005% by weight of dry matter of the cosmetic active ingredient, in particular in a form suitable for topical application, such as a cream or lotion.

[0072] Extraction method The extract constituting or contained in the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention can be obtained by any method including at least one step of extracting the biomass of the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast, which does not involve recovering the supernatant of the yeast culture.

[0073] To obtain the extract, it is necessary to generate Aureobasidium pullulans biomass. This process is carried out in a medium suitable for its growth, for example, a suitable medium, in a manner familiar to those skilled in the art, according to the yeast culture method. Once the biomass is obtained, an extraction process can be carried out to obtain the active molecules, preferentially sugars. The extraction process can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, such as induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, enzymatic lysis, chemical hydrolysis, or enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0074] For example, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention can be prepared by the following steps: a. culturing an Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a medium, preferentially in a suitable medium; b. dissolving at least 50 g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in water; c. Extracting, preferentially extracting sugars; d. heat treatment, preferably between 80°C and 90°C; e. separating the soluble and insoluble phases and recovering the soluble phase; f. Purifying by molecular sorting and optionally bleaching and deodorizing; g. Optionally concentrating and sterile filtering; can be obtained by carrying out the following.

[0075] Step d is, in addition to step c, a conventional heat treatment step performed by those skilled in the art to stabilize the extract obtained, in particular to avoid precipitation or unwanted natural enzymatic activity from certain molecules such as proteins that may possibly be present in the extract.

[0076] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. Preferentially, the separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase, which contains soluble sugars, such as oligosaccharides in particular.

[0077] Optionally, the method comprises a filtration step after recovery of the soluble phase to remove any particles remaining in suspension. This filtration step is therefore carried out to allow purification of the recovered soluble phase and to remove high molecular weight molecules.

[0078] The product obtained at this stage may optionally, preferentially, be further concentrated and / or purified by successive ultrafiltration steps, passing the filtrate at each stage through filters of different porosity, and / or by chromatographic methods.

[0079] The product obtained after filtration, before or after concentration and sterile filtration, is an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and consists of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention in a first form, which is then in liquid form.

[0080] The resulting extract may then be dried and optionally combined with a carrier to form a solid. This phase comprises the following steps: - adding an atomized carrier, preferably maltodextrin, to the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans up to 90% (by mass / volume); - then concentrating the solution under vacuum; - eliminating any bacteria that may be present by heat treatment; - a process making it possible to obtain a powder by atomization; This can be done by performing the following.

[0081] The above-mentioned method steps carried out individually are common in the field of extracting active ingredients from natural raw materials, and a person skilled in the art can adjust the reaction parameters thereof based on his or her general knowledge.

[0082] Uses and cosmetic methods according to the present invention According to one embodiment of the present invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing and / or to strengthen and / or improve the skin's barrier function.

[0083] According to another embodiment of the invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended to moisturize the skin and / or improve the quality of the skin surface, in particular to improve the radiance of the skin and / or to improve the evenness of the complexion and / or to reduce the microrelief of the skin.

[0084] According to yet another embodiment, the use is characterized in that the active ingredient is combined with at least one C-glycoside, in particular as defined below.

[0085] As mentioned above, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, preferably to the skin, a composition according to the invention, as detailed below.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic method is characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing and / or to strengthen and / or improve the skin's barrier function.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic method is characterized in that it aims to moisturize the skin and / or improve the quality of the skin surface, in particular to improve the radiance of the skin and / or to improve the evenness of the complexion and / or to reduce the microrelief of the skin.

[0088] The cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention are carried out by topically administering a composition comprising a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract according to the invention, optionally in combination with a C-glycoside.

[0089] Topical administration consists of the external application of such cosmetic compositions to the skin according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0090] By way of example, the cosmetic method or use according to the invention may be carried out by topically applying, for example daily, the composition in question, which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, cleansing milk, stick or after-sun composition, preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[0091] According to one embodiment, application is repeated, for example, once or twice daily for one or more days, generally for an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more rest periods, if appropriate.

[0092] According to another embodiment, application is performed daily (once a day) for an extended period of time, typically at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more rest periods, if appropriate.

[0093] In particular, as will emerge from the following examples, the extracts according to the invention have been shown to have an improved effect on the pathways of aging metabolism (Example 4) or an improved effect of stimulating the migration of aging keratinocytes, thus obtaining an anti-aging effect (Example 5).

[0094] Furthermore, as can be seen from the examples given below, the extract according to the invention, alone or in combination with C-glycosides, was tested in particular on epidermal markers, in particular filaggrin, loricrin, claudin-1, ZO-1, CK10, TGK (encoded by the gene TGM1) and involucrin (Examples 6 and 8).

[0095] In particular, transglutaminase K (TGK), filaggrin and involucrin, CK10 and loricrin are markers of differentiation of stratum corneum keratinocytes.

[0096] Moreover, filaggrin and TGK are markers of skin barrier function.

[0097] Claudin-1, occludin, and zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1) are markers of tight junctions.

[0098] Moreover, a clinical trial was carried out on a composition comprising the extract according to the invention, either alone or in combination with a C-glycoside, as described above, demonstrating its beneficial effects on the skin, in particular on the barrier function and microrelief (Example 7).

[0099] Thus, the extract according to the invention, alone or in combination with C-glycosides, makes it possible to stimulate the production of proteins constituting tight junctions in the skin, to induce improved intercellular cohesion, and to stimulate the production of proteins involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes in the skin.

[0100] Cosmetic composition containing a combination of extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and C-glycosides C-glycosides The C-glycosides (or C-glycoside derivatives) according to the present invention preferably have the following general formula (I):

[0101] [ka]

[0102] [In the formula, - R - saturated linear C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C3-C10 alkyl groups, or saturated or unsaturated branched or cyclic C3-C20, preferably C4-C10 alkyl groups, saturated linear C1-C20, preferably C2-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C2-C10, or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10, hydrofluoro or perfluoroalkyl groups, a phenyl or benzyl group, a hydrocarbon-based chain making up the group, optionally interrupted, where appropriate, by one, two, three or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, silicon, halogen atoms, a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with at least one group selected from: -OR4, -SR4, -NR4R5, -COOR4, -CONHR4, -CN, a C1-C6 hydrofluoro or perfluoroalkyl group, and / or a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, and / or at least one optionally substituted C5-C18 cycloalkyl, aryl or heterocyclic group, in which R4 and R5 may each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a linear saturated C1-C30, preferably C3-C12, or unsaturated C2-C30, preferably C3-C12, or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C30, preferably C4-C12 alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl group, or a C6-C10 aryl group. represents X represents a radical selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, preferentially a -CH(OH)- radical; - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in the L- and / or D-pyranose and / or furanose form, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being optionally substituted with a mandatorily based hydroxyl group and optionally with one or more optionally protected amine functions, - The S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be either α or β. and also physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and isomers thereof.

[0103] In the context of the present invention, the term "halogen" means chlorine, fluorine, bromine or iodine.

[0104] The term "aryl" refers to an aromatic ring, such as phenyl, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups.

[0105] The term "C3-C8 cycloalkyl" refers to an aliphatic ring containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including, for example, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, and cyclohexyl.

[0106] Among the alkyl groups suitable for use in the present invention may be mentioned methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and allyl, among others.

[0107] C-glycosides may correspond to formula (I) in which S may represent a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to six sugar units in the form of pyranose and / or furanose in the L- and / or D-configuration, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing at least one necessarily free hydroxyl function and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functions, and in which the other moieties X and R all retain the definitions given above.

[0108] Advantageously, the monosaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferentially D-xylose.

[0109] Advantageously, the polysaccharide according to the invention containing six or fewer sugar units may be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose; disaccharides consisting of a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid in combination with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine; oligosaccharides containing at least one xylose, which may advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, in particular xylobiose consisting of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond.

[0110] More preferentially, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose and D-maltose, and even better still D-xylose.

[0111] Advantageously, C-glycosides corresponding to formula (I) may be used, in which R is a linear saturated C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C3-C10 alkyl group, or a branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10 alkyl group, optionally substituted as previously described, and S and X otherwise retain all of the previously described definitions.

[0112] More preferentially, R may represent a linear C1-C4, preferably C1-C2, group, optionally substituted by -OH, -COOH or -COOR''2, R''2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular methyl. Even better still, R may represent an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, preferably C1-C2 alkyl group, for example methyl.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, among the C-glycosides of formula (I) used are: R is a linear saturated C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C3-C10 alkyl group, or a branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10 alkyl group, optionally substituted as described above; S represents the aforementioned monosaccharide, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferentially D-xylose, X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, C-glycosides of formula (I) are used, such as: R represents a linear C1-C4, preferably C1-C3, group, optionally substituted with -OH, -COOH, or -COOR''2, and R''2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl group, for example methyl; S represents the aforementioned monosaccharide, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferentially D-xylose, X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, C-glycosides of formula (I) such as the following may be used: R represents an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, preferably C1-C2 alkyl group, such as methyl; S represents the aforementioned monosaccharide, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, more preferentially D-xylose, X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and -CH(OH)-, preferentially a -CH(OH)- group.

[0116] Salts acceptable for non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in this invention include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, or boric acid. Salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid groups, may also be included. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of hydroxyl groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid, among others.

[0117] If the compound of formula (I) contains an acidic group, neutralization of the acidic group may be carried out with an inorganic base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH), NHOH, Mg(OH), or Zn(OH), or with an organic base such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, e.g., triethylamine or butylamine. The primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and thus may contain, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups, such as 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-dimethylaminopropanol, and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol, among others. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0118] Acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, for example those formed during the final steps of the preparation of the compounds due to the presence of a solvent. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates resulting from the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0119] Preferably, the C-glycosides of formula (I) used according to the invention are selected from: 1. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, 2. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, 3. 1-[2-(3-hydroxypropylamino)propyl]-C-β-D-xylopyranose, 4. 1-[2-(3-hydroxypropylamino)propyl]-C-α-D-xylopyranose, 5. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 6. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 7. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-aminopropane, 8. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-aminopropane, 9. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylaminopropane, 10. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylaminopropane, 11. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-butyric acid, 12. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-butyric acid, 13. 6-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 14. 6-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 15. 6-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 16. 6-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 17. 6-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 18. 6-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 19. 6-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid, 20. 6-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid, 21. 1-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol, 22. 1-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol, 23. 5-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-4-ketopentanoic acid, 24. 5-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-4-ketopentanoic acid, 25. 5-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid, 26. 5-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid, 27. 5-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-4-aminopentanoic acid, 28. 5-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-4-aminopentanoic acid, 29. 5-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)-4-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 30. 5-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)-4-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 31. 1-(C-β-D-xylopyranoside)pentane-2.5-diol, 32. 1-(C-α-D-xylopyranoside)pentane-2.5-diol, 33. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 34. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 35. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 36. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 37. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 38. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 39. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 40. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 41. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane, 42. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane, 43. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane, 44. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-aminopropane, 45. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane, 46. ​​1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane, 47. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane, 48. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylaminopropane, 49. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid, 50. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid, 51. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid, 52. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid, 53. 6-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 54. 6-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 55. 6-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 56. 6-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 57. 6-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 58. 6-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 59. 6-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 60. 6-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 61. 6-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 62. 6-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 63. 6-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 64. 6-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 65. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol, 66. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol, 67. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol, 68. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol, 69. 5-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-4-ketopentanoic acid, 70. 5-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-4-ketopentanoic acid, 71. 5-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol-4-ketopentanoic acid, 72. 5-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)hexane-2,6-diol-4-ketopentanoic acid, 73. 5-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid, 74. 5-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid, 75. 5-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid, 76. 5-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxypentanoic acid, 77. 5-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-4-aminopentanoic acid, 78. 5-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-4-aminopentanoic acid, 79. 5-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-4-aminopentanoic acid, 80. 5-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-4-aminopentanoic acid, 81. 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)pentane-2.5-diol, 82. 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)pentane-2.5-diol, 83. 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)pentane-2.5-diol, 84. 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)pentane-2.5-diol, 85. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 86. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 87. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 88. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 89. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane, 90. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane, 91. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyric acid 92. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyric acid. 93. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 94. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 95. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 96. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 97. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 98. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 99. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid, 100. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid, 101. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol, 102. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol, 103. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketopentanoic acid, 104. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketopentanoic acid, 105. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid, 106. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid, 107. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid, 108. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid, 109. 6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 110. 6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 111. 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol, 112. 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol, 113. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 114. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 115. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 116. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 117. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane, 118. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane, 119. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(β-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyric acid. 120. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(α-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyric acid. 121. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 122. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 123. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 124. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 125. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 126. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 127. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid, 128. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid, 129. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol, 130. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol, 131. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-ketopentanoic acid, 132. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-ketopentanoic acid, 133. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid, 134. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid, 135. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid, 136. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid, 137. 6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 138. 6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 139. 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)pentane-2,6-diol, 140. 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)pentane-2,6-diol, 141. 1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 142. 1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 143. 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 144. 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 145. 3'-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 146. 3'-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 147. 1-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 148. 1-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 149. 1-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane 150. 1-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylaminopropane, 151. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)butyric acid. 152. Ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)butyric acid. 153. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 154. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid, 155. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 156. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 157. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid, 158. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid 159. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid 160. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminohexanoic acid 161. 1-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol 162. 1-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)hexane-2,6-diol, 163. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketopentanoic acid 164. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketopentanoic acid 165. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid, 166. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxypentanoic acid 167. 6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid, 168. 6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid, 169. 6-(Acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid 170. 6-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminopentanoic acid 171. 1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol, 172. 1-(Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)pentane-2,5-diol.

[0120] Even more preferentially, the C-glycosides used according to the invention are chosen from: - C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - 1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - 1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, its isomers or mixtures thereof.

[0121] Even better, the C-glycoside used in the context of the present invention is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, such as the product sold under the name Mexoryl SBB® or Mexoryl SCN® by the company Novel (INCI name: hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) or that sold under the name Mexoryl SBB®, which contains 35% by weight of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol in 40% by weight of water and 25% by weight of propylene glycol.

[0122] The C-glycosides may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, and even better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.6% or 3.2% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] In a preferred embodiment, the C-glycoside may be present in the composition in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] The extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight of dry matter, more preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, and even better from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Preferably, the mass ratio [C-glycosides / extract of yeast biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans species] is less than or equal to 50, more preferentially the mass ratio [C-glycosides / extract of yeast biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans species] is between 5 and 50, even better still between 8 and 49.

[0126] Form of composition The comments about the composition may apply both to the composition according to the invention and to the composition in which the cosmetic active ingredients comprising the extract may be formed in the context of the use that is the subject of the present invention.

[0127] Such a composition may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials, in particular the body or the face, preferably the face.

[0128] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the body, including the skin of the face, hands or scalp, such as day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams, hair lotions or scalp creams.

[0129] In particular, the composition may be in the form of an anti-ageing care, moisturizing or photoprotective composition, in particular an anti-ageing care composition for the body or face, in particular facial skin.

[0130] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0131] More generally, the composition may be characterized as containing a physiologically acceptable medium, ie, a medium suitable for topical administration of the composition, ie, a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0132] According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., odorless, not having an unpleasant appearance, fully compatible with the topical application route, i.e., having a pleasant color and feel, and not causing any unacceptable discomfort, i.e., stinging, stiffness or redness that would discourage the user from applying the composition.

[0133] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous solution, an aqueous-alcoholic solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple (triple: O / W / O or W / O / W) emulsion or an aqueous gel, in particular a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase using microspheres (these microspheres are optionally polymer particles), or even better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or in the form of a powder, serum, paste or flexible rod or stick. They may be of solid, pasty or more or less liquid consistency. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0134] fat phase The composition may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0135] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It can also contain other fatty substances.

[0136] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0137] The fatty phase that is suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, in particular the cosmetic compositions, may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluoro or non-fluoro oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0138] Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight of silicone oil, more preferentially less than 2.0% by weight, even better still less than 1% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially no silicone oil.

[0139] Compositions containing limited amounts of silicone oil are advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less sticky and less rough to the touch, and have a softer finish, compared to compositions containing 5% or more by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0141] The oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0142] The term "non-volatile" means that the vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is 10 -3 This refers to oil with a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0143] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0144] The term "fluorooil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0145] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils may therefore contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0146] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that can evaporate upon contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for less than one hour. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at room temperature, in particular volatile cosmetic compounds that have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular volatile cosmetic compounds with a vapor pressure between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The volatile cosmetic compounds are volatile cosmetic compounds having a viscosity in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0148] In particular, volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, e.g., C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, as well as oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C-C 16 Mention may be made of esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Specifically, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] Volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C ), sold by Sasol under the references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), as well as mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures, and n-undecane (C ) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis patent application WO 2008 / 155059. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) as well as mixtures thereof.

[0150] Mention may also be made of the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of vegetable origin: - C 15 ~C 19 Mixtures of branched alkanes, such as the product sold under the name Emogreen® L15 by the company SEPPIC, - C 15 ~C 19 Mixtures of linear and / or branched alkanes, for example the product sold under the name Emogreen® L19 by the company SEPPIC.

[0151] The composition according to the invention comprises volatile linear alkanes containing 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular undecane-tridecane mixtures, as well as linear and / or branched C 15 ~C 19 Alkanes, especially linear and / or branched C 15 ~C 19 It may comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based oil selected from a mixture of alkanes.

[0152] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0153] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and especially cyclohexasiloxane.

[0154] Mention may also be made of nonvolatile hydrocarbon, fluoro and / or silicone oils.

[0155] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as squalane, hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as Vaseline, o Liquid paraffin, Polybutylenes, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco, Polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® sold by NOF Corporation, Panalane H-300 E (MW=1340 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco, Viseal 20000 (MW=6000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Synteal and Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW=1000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Witco, Polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, for example Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals; o Polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, such as Indopol L-14, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as vegetable squalane, - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may especially be chosen from esters of alcohols and fatty acids, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleic alcohol or polyols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl behenate. polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; aliphatic alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, non-phenyl silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, as well as phenylsilicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; Also, a mixture of these various oils.

[0156] The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] The compositions according to the invention may also contain solid fatty substances, for example fatty acids that are solid at room temperature, such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; synthetic waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, montan wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, polyethylene wax, butters, such as Fischer-Tropsch wax, fatty alcohol waxes, vegetable butters; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as those sold under the name KSG by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., those sold under the name Trefil or BY29 by Dow Corning, or those sold under the name Gransil by Grant Industries.

[0158] Fatty alcohol waxes can include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Preferentially, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

[0160] Butters, especially vegetable butters, include avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter and sal butter, as well as mixtures thereof, especially shea butter.

[0161] These fatty substances can be selected in various ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition with the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0162] The solid fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] aqueous phase The composition may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0164] The aqueous phase may comprise water and, optionally, a water-miscible organic solvent.

[0165] The water used may be demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose, cornflower, chamomile, or lime blossom water, and / or natural spring or mineral water, such as Vittel, Vichy Basin, Uriage, Roche Posay, Bourboule, Enghien-les-Bains, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Neris-les-Bains, Allevar-les-Bains, Digne, Maizières, Neyrac-les-Bains, Lons-le-Saunier, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort, Saint-Christau, Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains, or Avene. The aqueous phase may also contain reconstituted spring water, i.e., water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, and magnesium that reconstitute the characteristics of spring water.

[0166] The water-miscible organic solvents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile.

[0167] The composition may comprise water at a concentration ranging from 20% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] Preferably, water is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight and more preferentially from 45% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] According to the present invention, the term "water-miscible organic solvent" denotes an organic compound that is liquid at room temperature and has a water miscibility of more than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

[0170] Among the water-miscible organic solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, polyols, C3 and C4 ketones and C2 to C4 aldehydes.

[0171] Among the lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol.

[0172] The term "polyol" suitable for use in the present invention means a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compound having at least two -OH functional groups in the alkyl chain, specifically at least three -OH functional groups, more specifically at least four -OH functional groups.

[0173] Polyols that are suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are in particular those containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0174] Among the polyols, mention may be made of pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol, and polyethylene glycol.

[0175] If present, the water-miscible organic solvent is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, even better from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The aqueous phase can also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as a gelling agent, a film-forming polymer, a thickener or a surfactant, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickening and / or gelling agents may be incorporated into the composition, in particular hydrophilic, ie water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0178] Advantageously, the gelling agent is chosen from synthetic or natural or naturally occurring hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "of natural origin" is intended to denote a polymeric gelator obtained by modifying a natural polymeric gelator.

[0180] The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents may be chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, in particular those defined below.

[0181] Among the crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, mention may be made of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, such as those sold under the trade names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by the company BASF, and those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.

[0182] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made by way of example of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol® (CTFA name: Carbomer).

[0183] Among the polyacrylamido and optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, there are poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold under the name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by the company Hoechst, crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, such as Sepigel® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C) by the company SEPPIC, 13~14 Mention may be made of those sold under the names Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) and Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80).

[0184] The natural or naturally occurring hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent may be selected from modified or unmodified cellulose, carrageenan, gellan gum, agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, pullulan, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] activator Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent.

[0186] Examples of active agents that may be mentioned include moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, cicatrizing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] surfactants The compositions according to the invention may also contain an emulsifying surfactant, which is preferably non-ionic.

[0188] The nonionic surfactants may in particular be chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols, which are preferably used are those which contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular those which contain from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular aliphatic alcohols, in particular C8 to C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 These fatty alcohols may be ethoxylated or not, for example ethoxylated stearyl alcohols with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20), such as Brij® 78 sold by Uniqema, cetearyl alcohols ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), and C 2000 with 7 oxyethylene units. 12 ~C 15 Mixture of fatty alcohols (CTFA name C 12~15 Pareth-7), for example the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals, or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 Fatty alcohols, for example stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with two oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-2), such as Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema.

[0190] Preferably used optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan include those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned are sorbitan 4EO or 20EO laurate, polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween® 20 sold in particular by Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan 20EO stearate, sorbitan 20EO oleate, or Cremophor® products from BASF (RH 40, RH 60, etc.). Mention may also be made of a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (sold under the name Arlacel® 2121U-FL by Croda).

[0191] Preferably used alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides are those containing alkyl groups containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 or from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and those containing glucosidic groups preferably containing from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 or 3, glucosidic units. Alkyl polyglucosides are, for example, decyl glucoside [alkyl C9 / C 11polyglucosides (1.4)], for example the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals of Kao Corporation or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 by Henkel. caprylyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; arachidyl glucosyl and a mixture of behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol sold under the name Montanov® 202 by the company SEPPIC (its INCI name is arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside); a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov® 68 by the company SEPPIC (its INCI name is cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside), and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The composition according to the invention or used according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 20% by weight, and more preferentially between 0.5% and 10% by weight, of emulsifying surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] The terms "between," "including," "formed from," and "ranging from" are to be understood as inclusive unless otherwise specified.

[0194] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise stated, the amounts given are expressed as mass percentages. [Example]

[0195] Example 1 Cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained by the following method: a. culturing Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable medium; b. Aureobasidium pullulans yeast biomass was dissolved in water at a ratio of 50 g / L. c. Extracting sugars; d. Heat treatment between 80℃ and 90℃, e. separating the soluble and insoluble phases; f. Purify by molecular selection; g. Concentrate h. Sterile filter.

[0196] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 20.1 g / L, of which: - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method) = 6.9 g / L (34% by mass of dry matter) i. Alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharide content = 2.5g / L ii. Beta-linked glucose oligosaccharide content = 2.5 g / L - Peptide content (according to the Kjeldhal method) = 6.6 g / L (33% by mass based on dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 2.5 g / L (12% by mass based on dry matter) - pH=3.5 - Clear, very pale yellow liquid, slight odor

[0197] Example 2 Active ingredients outside the scope of the present invention The active ingredient of Example 2 is also obtained from Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. The active ingredient of Example 2 is obtained by the following method: a. culturing Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable medium; b. Aureobasidium pullulans yeast biomass was dissolved in water at a ratio of 50 g / L. c. Extracting proteins; d. Heat treatment between 80℃ and 90℃, e. separating the soluble and insoluble phases; f. Purify by molecular selection; g. Concentrate h. Sterile filter.

[0198] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 26.8 g / L, of which: - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method) = 2.5 g / L (9% by mass based on dry matter) - Peptide content (according to the Kjeldhal method) = 12.4 g / L (46% by mass based on dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 5 g / L (19% by mass based on dry matter) - pH=3.6 - Clear, very pale yellow liquid, slight odor

[0199] Example 3 Active ingredients outside the scope of the present invention The active ingredient of Example 3 is obtained from the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass. a. culturing Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable medium; b. physically separating the culture supernatant from the biomass to recover the culture supernatant; c. Sterile filter.

[0200] The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 9.6 g / L, of which: - Total sugar content (according to the Dubois method) = 1.6 g / L (17% by mass based on dry matter) - Protein content (according to the Lowry method) = 0.11 g / L (1% by mass based on dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 6.2 g / L (65% by mass based on dry matter) - pH=6.9 - Clear pale yellow liquid, slight odor.

[0201] Example 4 Effect of the active ingredients according to the invention on cellular senescence of the epidermal compartment This study aims to study the expression of specific genes and determine the content of specific proteins in keratinocytes treated with various extracts. The keratinocytes were either aged using UVB free radical stress or derived from aged donors.

[0202] Table 1 lists genes in the epidermal compartment that are regulated during aging by free radical stress.

[0203] [Table 1]

[0204] Table 2 lists proteins in the epidermal compartment that are regulated during aging by free radical stress.

[0205] [Table 2]

[0206] The results of the study are presented below in Tables 3 to 5. Table 3 shows the expression of the genes HSP90AA1 and SIRT1 in keratinocytes subjected to UVB free radical stress and treated with various extracts.

[0207] [Table 3]

[0208] The sugar-rich active ingredient according to the invention (Example 1) has a better effect on the expression of the genes HSP90AA1 and SIRT1 in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress than extracts outside the scope of the invention (Examples 2 and 3).

[0209] Table 4 below shows the expression rates of proteins DJ-1 and TNR6 in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress and treated with different extracts.

[0210] [Table 4]

[0211] The sugar-rich active ingredient according to the invention (Example 1) has a better effect on the proportion of proteins DJ-1 and TNR6 in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress than the extracts not according to the invention (Examples 2 and 3).

[0212] Table 5 below shows the expression of protein DJ-1 in keratinocytes derived from old donors and treated with the active ingredient according to the invention (Example 1).

[0213] [Table 5]

[0214] The sugar-rich active ingredient according to the invention (Example 1) has a significant effect on the expression rate of the protein DJ-1 in keratinocytes from old donors, a result that confirms the results obtained on keratinocytes aged by free radical stress.

[0215] Thus, the sugar-rich extract according to Example 1 has an effect on the metabolic pathways of aging (HSP90AA1 +48%, SIRT1 +106%, DJ 1 -54%, TNR6 -39%).

[0216] The protein-rich extract according to Example 2 has a much weaker effect on the metabolic pathways of aging, and is therefore less effective than the extract according to Example 1.

[0217] The extract according to Example 3, extracted from the supernatant, has no effect on the metabolic pathways of aging in the epidermal compartment.

[0218] Thus, the sugar-rich extract has an improved effect on the metabolic pathways of aging.

[0219] Example 5 Effect of the active ingredients according to the invention on the migration of senescent keratinocytes The goal of this study was to investigate the ability of various extracts to increase cell migration in normal human keratinocytes. Cell migration is the ability of certain cells to move, and this migratory ability decreases with age.

[0220] This study was carried out on keratinocytes from aged donors (>60 years old). Table 6 below shows the quantification of keratinocyte migration in the wound, carried out in cultures of senescent keratinocytes treated with various extracts.

[0221] [Table 6]

[0222] The extract according to Example 3 has no effect on the migration of senescent keratinocytes. In contrast, the extract according to Example 1 stimulates the migration of senescent keratinocytes by 23%. Also in this case, the sugar-rich extract according to the invention of Example 1 allows an improved effect in stimulating the migration of senescent keratinocytes and therefore an anti-aging effect.

[0223] Example 6 In vitro effect of the active ingredients according to the invention on skin barrier function markers A. Materials and Methods Cultivation and treatment of reconstructed skin The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans was prepared in Example 1 above.

[0224] Human keratinocytes were seeded onto the inserts and then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. The medium was changed every two days from days 2 to 9 of incubation. The reconstructed epidermal samples were then systemically treated with either 0.25% or 0.50% (V / V) Aureobasidium pullulans extract or 250 μM niacinamide and then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2 from days 9 to 17.

[0225] Then, on day 17, the reconstructed skin was collected and treated in different ways depending on the analytical test performed: For immunohistofluorescence analysis, the reconstructed skin was harvested, fixed, dehydrated, embedded in paraffin, and then cut into 4 μm sections using a Leica microtome. - For QPCR testing, reconstructed skin was collected and whole RNA was extracted intact.

[0226] Analysis of filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1 synthesis by immunohistofluorescence For this study, the following primary antibodies were used: - Mouse anti-filaggrin monoclonal antibody - Rabbit anti-loricrin polyclonal antibody - Mouse anti-claudin-1 monoclonal antibody

[0227] The secondary antibodies used were as follows: - Rabbit anti-IgG antibody conjugated to Alexa Fluor® 488 - Mouse anti-IgG antibody conjugated to Alexa Fluor® 488

[0228] Visualization was performed using an IX 70 microscope (Olympus Corporation) linked to an image analysis system (NIS-Elements software, Nikon Corporation). The content of the various markers synthesized was proportional to the intensity of green fluorescence observed in the reconstructed epidermal samples. Quantification was performed by means of an image analysis script written in Python. Results are expressed in arbitrary units (AU). Quantitative PCR analysis of ZO-1, CK10, involucrin, and TGM1 expression

[0229] For this analysis, RNA was reverse transcribed and the resulting complementary DNA was analyzed by quantitative PCR. The mRNAs for RPS18, GAPDH, and GUSB proteins (internal control) were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs for ZO-1, CK10, involucrin, and TGM1.

[0230] Quantification of fluorescence incorporation (SYBR Green) was measured continuously using a LightCycler LC480 thermal cycler (Roche), and Ct analysis (for quantification) was performed using LC480 software (Roche).

[0231] B. Results *: Significant results by Student's t-test / control constructed epidermis (p<0.05) **: Significant results by Student's t-test / control constructed epidermis (p<0.01) ***: Significant results by Student's t-test / control constructed epidermis (p<0.005)

[0232] Immunohistofluorescence study of the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of epidermal markers: filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1

[0233] [Table 7]

[0234] Testing the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of epidermal markers filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1 showed significant results compared to controls. For example, the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of claudin-1 was significant compared to controls.

[0235] QPCR research

[0236] [Table 8]

[0237] Studies of the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the synthesis of epidermal markers ZO-1, CK10, TGM1, and involucrin showed significant results compared to controls. For example, the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on the expression of CK10 or involucrin was significant compared to controls.

[0238] As a result, Aureobasidium pullulans extract makes it possible to improve the skin barrier function.

[0239] Example 7 In vitro effect of the active ingredients according to the invention on skin barrier function A. Materials and Methods The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans was prepared in Example 1 above.

[0240] A composition according to the present invention, designated "Test Composition" below according to Table 9 below, and also a second placebo formula identical to "Test Composition" but without the Aureobasidium pullulans extract, were applied to half the face according to a predetermined randomization for 42 days by gently massaging until the composition was absorbed.

[0241] Each value is expressed as a percentage by weight of the active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] [Table 9]

[0243] A panel of users (20 volunteers) underwent a 14-day "washout" period during which they applied a placebo formulation twice daily. Then, every morning and evening, users applied a composition containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract, and also the placebo formulation, to half of their face, free of cream and / or makeup, for a 42-day period.

[0244] On the day of measurement, the volunteers came to the laboratory in the morning without applying any products to the areas of interest (no creams or make-up).

[0245] Barrier function research Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed using a Tewameter™ 300 (Courage & Khazaka) equipped with a probe that measures the water vapor gradient between the skin surface and the ambient air, providing information about the quality of the stratum corneum's barrier function.

[0246] The TEWL measurements were performed on symmetrical areas of the cheek at different time points during the study.

[0247] A decrease in TEWL is characteristic of an improvement in skin barrier function.

[0248] The effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on TEWL was measured superficially after 14, 28, and 42 days of twice-daily application per half-face and compared with placebo.

[0249] Research on skin microrelief Skin microrelief studies were performed using impressions that were analyzed by fringe projection. These silicone polymer impressions were made on the cheeks at various stages of the study.

[0250] Volume acquisition of these impressions was then performed using a fringe projection device (Eotech) designed for 3D measurements of the impression relief. This system (Derma TOP 1303) comprises a measurement sensor combined with a projector and a high-resolution CCD camera linked to Optocat acquisition software (Eotech). The area under study was automatically cropped from the original acquisition.

[0251] The parameter chosen for this study is the parameter Sa (mm), which corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the surface roughness.

[0252] The higher this parameter, the rougher the surface. A decrease in this parameter is characteristic of an improvement in the microrelief.

[0253] B. Data Processing The effects of Aureobasidium pullulans extract and placebo were evaluated by studying the degree of change between D0 and various times of interest (Dx), which reflects the change before and after treatment.

[0254]

number

[0255] (In the formula, Music Video Dx : Average value for the treated area before treatment Music Video J0 : average value for the treated area after x days of daily application)

[0256] The effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract compared to the placebo formulation was evaluated by obtaining the difference between the degree of change of the formulation containing the Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the degree of change of the placebo formulation: [Formula 2] Δ / placebo (%) = (Δ / D0) 生成物 -(Δ / D0) プラセボ (In the formula, - (Δ / D0) 生成物 : the degree of change relative to D0 in the area treated with the test composition containing the Aureobasidium pullulans extract after x days of daily application, - (Δ / D0) プラセボ : degree of change relative to D0 on the placebo-treated area after x days of daily application).

[0257] Statistical Data Analysis Comparisons of the results obtained between D0 and the various time points of interest after the use of each formulation, as well as the effects of the formulation containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the placebo formulation, were performed using a Student's t-test for paired data, except when the results of the Shapiro-Wilk normality test were less than 5%. In this case, statistical analysis was performed using the nonparametric Wilcoxon signed-rank test. In both cases, the tests were one-sided with a critical threshold set at 5%. The Statgraphics™ Centurion version XVI software was used to perform these analyses.

[0258] C. Results Barrier function study: TEWL (g / h / m) measured on the face 2 The effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on rhododendron amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ROS) was compared with placebo after 14, 28, and 42 days of twice-daily application.

[0259] [Table 10]

[0260] In comparison with placebo, a formulation containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract as an emulsion showed an improvement in the quality of barrier function (-14.6%, p=0.0026) starting from day 14 of treatment. This effect continued at -15.4% (p=0.0066) and -15.5% (p=0.0004) after 28 and 42 days of treatment, respectively, and the effect was observed in more than 75% of volunteers at various measurement times.

[0261] Skin microrelief study: The smoothing effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract on cheek microrelief was compared with placebo after 14, 28 and 42 days of twice-daily application, using the parameter Sa (mm).

[0262] [Table 11]

[0263] In comparison with placebo, the formulation containing Aureobasidium pullulans extract as an emulsion showed a significant improvement in skin microrelief, with an 8.1% decrease in the Sa parameter (p=0.0120, effect observed in 65% of volunteers) after 14 days of treatment.

[0264] Example 8 In vitro effects of the active ingredients according to the invention alone and in combination with C-glycosides A. Materials and Methods The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans was prepared in Example 1 above.

[0265] The effects of Aureobasidium pullulans extract and C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (C-xyloside, Pro-xylane™), as well as their combination, were evaluated on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) by analyzing the expression of markers by in situ immunofluorescence labeling and image analysis: - Expression of differentiation markers: transglutaminase K (TGK), filaggrin and involucrin, - Expression of tight junction component proteins: claudin-1, zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1) and occludin.

[0266] Compounds were tested at non-cytotoxic concentrations. - Normal human keratinocytes: NHEK, Bioalternatives reference name K341 (used at passage 3). - Culture conditions: 37°C, 5% CO2 - Medium: Keratinocyte SFM (serum-free medium) supplemented with epidermal growth factor pituitary extract - Test medium: Keratinocyte SFM (serum-free medium)

[0267] Compounds tested

[0268] [Table 12]

[0269] - Markers: TGK, filaggrin, involucrin, claudin-1, ZO-1 and occludin expression Positive control: CaCl2 Sigma, reference name C7902, stored in 150 mM ultrapure water solution, test concentration = 1.5 mM Marker: Positive control for the expression of collagen IV: TGF-β R&D Systems, reference 240-B, stored in a 20 μg / ml solution in 4 mM HCl / 0.1% BSA, test concentrations = 1.6-10 ng / ml.

[0270] Culture and treatment TGK, Claudin-1, ZO-1, Collagen IV: Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, after which the medium was replaced with test medium containing or not containing (control) the test compound, combination, or reference compound, and the cells were incubated for 72 hours.

[0271] Filaggrin: Keratinocytes were seeded into 96-well plates and grown in culture medium for 192 hours, with the medium being refreshed after 24 and 96 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not containing (control) the test compound, combination, or reference compound, and the cells were incubated for 72 hours.

[0272] Involucrin and Occludin: Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not containing (control) the test compound, combination, or reference compound, and the cells were incubated for 144 hours, with treatment repeated after 72 hours.

[0273] In situ immunofluorescence labeling and image analysis fixed cells The cells were rinsed with PBS solution, fixed, and permeabilized. Then, the cells were labeled using specific primary antibodies (Table 13). The primary antibodies were then revealed using appropriate fluorescent secondary antibodies (Table 13), and in parallel, the cell nuclei were stained using Hoechst 33258 solution (bisbenzimide, Sigma, reference name B1155).

[0274] [Table 13]

[0275] Microscopic observation and image analysis Image collection (5 photos / well) was performed using an IN Cell Analyzer™ 2200 (GE Healthcare, ×20 objective).

[0276] Labeling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity and normalizing it to the total number of cells (digital data integration with Developer Toolbox 1.5 software (GE Healthcare)).

[0277] Data Processing The raw data was analyzed using Microsoft Excel software.

[0278] Comparisons between groups were performed using unpaired Student's t-tests. When n≧5, statistical analysis is interpretable, but when n<5, statistics are approximate.

[0279] The formula used is: The standard error is calculated by the following formula:

[0280]

number

[0281] The standard error (sem) is a measure of the random deviation of a sample from the true population mean. The sem is calculated by dividing the sd (standard deviation) by the square root of the sample size.

[0282] The survival rate is calculated by the following formula: [Formula 4] Survival rate (%)=(OD 試料 / OD 対照 ) x 100 OD: optical density.

[0283] B. Results ns: 0.05, not significant *: 0.01-0.05, significant **: 0.001 to 0.01, highly significant ***: <0.001, highly significant

[0284] The results for each marker are summarized in Tables 14 to 21 below.

[0285] [Table 14]

[0286] [Table 15]

[0287] [Table 16]

[0288] [Table 17]

[0289] [Table 18]

[0290] [Table 19]

[0291] [Table 20]

[0292] Under control conditions, basal expression of differentiation markers and the tight junction component proteins TGK, filaggrin, involucrin, claudin-1, ZO-1, and occludin in NHEKs was either very low or restricted to a small number of cells.

[0293] Treatment of NHEKs with the positive control CaCl2 tested at 1.5 mM significantly stimulated the expression of TGK (903% of control), filaggrin (159% of control), involucrin (126% of control), claudin-1 (200% of control), ZO-1 (119% of control), and occludin (296% of control). These results were expected and confirmed the validity of the study.

[0294] At the epidermal-dermal junction, basal expression of collagen IV was very low. Treatment of NHEKs with TGF-β tested at 10 ng / ml significantly stimulated collagen IV expression (176% of control). These results were expected and confirmed the validity of the study.

[0295] Under the experimental conditions of this study, Aureobasidium pullulans extract induced a significant increase in the expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and occludin.

[0296] The combination of Aureobasidium pullulans extract with C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (C-xyloside, Pro-xylane™) also stimulated the expression of the markers studied.

[0297] The main effects that were slightly stronger than the effect of Aureobasidium pullulans extract alone were: - No efficacy was observed when used alone, whereas the combination significantly increased collagen IV expression at the highest concentration. - synergistic increase of TGK, and - A significant increase in ZO-1 expression was observed at the three concentrations tested, with similar effects, whereas no efficacy was observed when used alone.

[0298] Consequently, the Aureobasidium pullulans extract, optionally in combination with C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, makes it possible to inhibit the signs of skin ageing and improve the skin's barrier function.

[0299] Example 9 Cosmetic Composition The following lotions were prepared:

[0300] [Table 21]

[0301] The lotion was applied to the facial skin.

Claims

1. 1. Use of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of at least one yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, characterized in that the extract contains at least 25% by weight of sugars based on the dry matter of the extract, as a cosmetic active ingredient in a use or composition comprising the same.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing and / or to strengthen and / or improve the skin's barrier function.

3. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is intended to moisturize the skin and / or improve the quality of the skin surface, in particular to improve the radiance of the skin and / or to improve the evenness of the complexion and / or to reduce microrelief of the skin.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the yeast is isolated from rose bushes, more preferentially from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of Rosa species.

5. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract comprises at least 45% by weight of sugars of the dry matter of the extract, in particular the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% by weight of oligosaccharides of the dry matter of the sugars, said oligosaccharides being preferably alpha-linked glucose-oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose-oligosaccharides, for example having a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

6. 6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient is in liquid or solid form.

7. The cosmetically active ingredient is prepared by the following steps: a. culturing an Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a medium; b. dissolving at least 50 g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water; c. Extracting, preferentially extracting sugars; d. heat treatment, preferably between 80°C and 90°C; e. separating the soluble and insoluble phases and recovering the soluble phase; f. Purifying by molecular sorting and optionally bleaching and deodorizing; g. Optionally concentrating and sterile filtering; Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is obtainable via a process comprising:

8. 8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient is combined with at least one C-glycoside.

9. The C-glycoside has the following general formula (I): 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, - R saturated linear C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C3-C10, alkyl groups, or saturated or unsaturated branched or cyclic C3-C20, preferably C4-C10, alkyl groups, saturated linear C1-C20, preferably C2-C10, or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C2-C10, or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C20, preferably C4-C10, hydrofluoro or perfluoroalkyl groups, a phenyl or benzyl group, a hydrocarbon-based chain constituting said group, optionally interrupted, where appropriate, by one, two, three or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, silicon, halogen atoms, a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally substituted with at least one group selected from the following: -OR4, -SR4, -NR4R5, -COOR4, -CONHR4, -CN, a C1 to C6 hydrofluoro or perfluoroalkyl group, and / or a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl group, and / or at least one optionally substituted C5 to C18 cycloalkyl, aryl or heterocyclic group, in which R4 and R5 may each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a linear saturated C1 to C30, preferably C3 to C12, or unsaturated C2 to C30, preferably C3 to C12, or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3 to C30, preferably C4 to C12 alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl group, or a C6 to C10 aryl group. represents X is -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH 2 )-, preferentially representing the -CH(OH)- group, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in the L- and / or D-pyranose and / or furanose form, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being optionally substituted with necessarily free hydroxyl groups and optionally with one or more optionally protected amine functions, - bond S-CH 2 -X represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be α or β; and also physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and isomers thereof.

10. 10. The use according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the C-glycoside is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

11. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 10, in which the mass ratio [C-glycosides / extract of yeast biomass of the Aureobasidium pullulans species] is less than or equal to 50, more preferentially the mass ratio [C-glycosides / extract of yeast biomass of the Aureobasidium pullulans species] is between 5 and 50, and even better still between 8 and 49.

12. A composition, in particular a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular an extract of at least one yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, in particular as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, present in a weight ratio in particular as defined in claim 11, and at least one C-glycoside, in particular as defined in claims 9 and 10.

13. 13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the extract is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight of dry matter, more preferentially ranging from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and even better ranging from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. 14. The composition according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of active substance, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, and even better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.6% or 3.2% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for keratinous materials, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14 onto said keratinous materials, preferably onto the skin.

16. 16. Method according to claim 15, characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing and / or to strengthen and / or improve the skin's barrier function.

17. 17. Method according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that it is intended to moisturize the skin and / or to improve the quality of the skin surface, in particular to improve the radiance of the skin and / or to improve the evenness of the complexion and / or to reduce the microrelief of the skin.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Skin cosmetic

    JP1994219936A

  • Novel c-glycoside derivatives and their uses

    JP2004525877A

  • COMPOSITION CONTAINING beta-GLUCAN, METHOD FOR PRODUCING THE SAME, AND FOOD AND DRINK OR MOISTURIZING AGENT FOR SKIN CONTAINING THE COMPOSITION

    JP2006075076A

  • Use of c-glycoside derivative for improving skin's barrier function

    JP2008013561A

  • Cosmetic method for limiting formation of hollowing of face

    JP2008013565A