Use of vanillin derivatives to inhibit, attenuate and / or mask the odor of organic UV filters, and compositions containing them
Vanillin derivatives are used to mask and inhibit the odor of UV-A and/or UV-B filters, addressing odor issues in cosmetic compositions and maintaining stability, particularly in perfumes, while preserving UV-filtering efficacy.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006943
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic and dermatological compositions containing UV-A and/or UV-B filters do not effectively address the need for specific UV-B filters, as they are not suitable for delicate perfumes rich in natural substances.
The use of UV-A and/or UV-B filters, particularly organic UV-A and/or UV-B filters, is enhanced by incorporating vanillin derivatives to inhibit, attenuate, and/or mask their unpleasant odor, while maintaining stability and homogeneity in cosmetic compositions.
Vanillin derivatives effectively mask and/or inhibit the odor of UV-A and/or UV-B filters, ensuring pleasant odor and stability in cosmetic compositions, particularly in perfumes, while retaining UV-filtering efficacy.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Use of vanillin derivatives to inhibit, attenuate and / or mask the odor of organic UV filters, and compositions containing them technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, and aims in particular to propose the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined below as a masking agent and / or as an odor inhibitor of organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s), as well as compositions comprising one or more UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s).
[0002] The cosmetic field to which the application of the composition, as well as the use, referred to by the present invention can extend includes in particular the field of makeup and / or care and / or hygiene of keratinous materials, the field of sun protection, the field of hair care, or even the field of perfumes. Previous technique
[0003] It is common practice to introduce UV-A and / or UV-B filters, in particular organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters, into cosmetic compositions.
[0004] Such compounds can be used to provide sun protection. They can also be useful as stabilizers, which help maintain the organoleptic properties of products that are stable against various stresses, such as UV-A and / or UV-B radiation and thermal shock, particularly in perfumery compositions.
[0005] Thus, a wide variety of cosmetic compositions may contain a combination of several organic and / or inorganic UV-A and / or UV-B filters, delivered in oily and / or aqueous phase, and offered in various galenic forms.
[0006] However, UV-A and / or UV-B filters are not fully satisfactory, for example for delicate perfumes rich in natural substances.
[0007] Indeed, the presence of UV-A and / or UV-B filters in compositions can present cosmetic disadvantages, and in particular generate a release of particularly unpleasant odor which constitutes a real nuisance for users, which may limit their use in cosmetic compositions. Description of the invention
[0008] In view of the foregoing, it is thus evident that there remains a need for consumers to have cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters, which have a pleasant odor for users, while also offering advantageous cosmetic performance.
[0009] Thus, there remains a need for compounds to mask and / or inhibit and / or attenuate the unpleasant odor of UV-A and / or UV-B filters, particularly in cosmetic compositions.
[0010] There also remains a need for compositions, particularly cosmetic ones, comprising one or more organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters, which remain stable and homogeneous over time, especially in terms of odor, under the effects of light and temperature, regardless of the formulation. Summary of the invention
[0011] The present invention has the particular object of proposing compounds that are particularly effective in covering the unpleasant odor of UV-A and / or UV-B filters, in particular organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the use of:
[0013] i) of one or more compounds of formula (I) as defined below as well as their optical isomers, their base or organic or mineral acid salts, or one of their solvates such as hydrates, to inhibit and / or attenuate and / or mask the odor ii) of one or more organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s);
[0014] [Chem.l]
[0015] formula (I) in which: • R i represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably ethyl; • R 2 represents an atom i) of hydrogen, or a group chosen from ii) (Ci-C6 )alkyl, and iii) (Ci-C6)alkoxy, preferably a hydrogen atom; r3, r4 and R5, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from a) hydroxy, b) amino, c) (Ci-C4)alkyl, and d) (Ci-C4)alkoxy, more preferably R3, R4 and R5 represent a hydrogen atom.
[0016] The uses envisaged according to the invention are cosmetic and non-therapeutic.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising: i. one or more compound(s) of formula (I) such as defined above, and ii. one or more organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s), and iii. optionally one or more inorganic UV filter(s),
[0018] it being understood that: - the total quantity of compound(s) of formula (I) as defined above is less than or equal to 1%, more preferably less than or equal to 0.5%, and more particularly less than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - when the quantity of compound(s) (I) is between 0.0001% and 0.0003% then the composition cannot include 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, (also called 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, PARSOL MCX 5466-77-3) in an amount between 7 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - and when the composition includes ethanol, the quantity is not greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] Preferably the composition comprises one or more compound(s) of formula (I) such as defined above in an amount between 0.001% and 0.5%, more particularly between 0.01% and 0.08% and 0.02% and 0.05% such that 0.025% + / - 0.002% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate.
[0021] Japanese patent application JP 2022116132 describes fruit-flavored beverages comprising esters, alcohols, aldehydes, acetals, ketones, phenols, ethers, lactones, and other nitrogenous and / or sulfurous hydrocarbon compounds, including ethyl vanillin and cited.
[0022] A South Korean patent KR 10-0871911 describes sun protection compositions comprising vanilla extract and chicory root extract that prevent skin erythema or treat atopic dermatitis.
[0023] Vanillin derivatives are known and used in the cosmetics field, and particularly in the field of perfumes. Examples include perfumed compositions and emulsions containing ethyl vanillin (see, for example, US 2016015613, EP 2 918 260 Al, EP 2 782 546 Al). These compositions do not contain UV filters.
[0024] Sunscreen emulsions comprising specific zinc oxide powders mixed with perfume formulations including a complex mixture of ingredients known in perfumery, including vanillin and ethyl vanillin, are described (EP 2 497 457). These zinc oxide-based compositions are described as having a good application feel and transparency. Oil-in-water emulsions comprising more than 50% ethanol, and sunscreens combined with other ingredients including a complex mixture of perfumes containing ethyl vanillin, and BHT (EP 2782546).
[0025] Now, as can be seen from the examples below, the compound(s) of formula (I) or (II) as defined below have been characterized as olfactory neutralizers of the odor of UV filters in particular of organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters, and thus as being able to attenuate and / or inhibit and / or mask the unpleasant odor of UV-A and / or UV-B filters, while retaining the ability of the filters containing the composition to filter UV. Definitions
[0026] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:
[0027] By "(C i -C 6 )(alkyl)vanillin" means vanillin i.e. 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde and its derivatives having a (C2-C6)alkyl group in place of the methyl of the methoxy in position 3 of the 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde.
[0028] The compounds of formula (I) or (II), their organic or mineral base salts, or their solvates such as hydrates, may be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin.
[0029] According to one embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) of formula (I), their organic or mineral base salts, or their solvates such as hydrates, are in the form of organic or mineral base salts, such as alkali metal salts (Na+, K+), alkaline earth metal salts (Mg2+, Ca2+) and ammonium ions. They may be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0030] By "inhibit" is meant the act of totally or partially reducing the aspect in question, for example the unpleasant odor of UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0031] By "attenuate" is meant the act of reducing the intensity of the aspect under consideration, for example the unpleasant odor of UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0032] By “masking”, we mean covering totally or partially the aspect in question, for example the unpleasant odor of UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0033] For the purposes of this invention, "perfume composition" or "perfuming composition" means any composition that, after application to keratinous materials, leaves a fragrance or odor. A fragrance is the result of a combination of different odorous substances, each providing a specific diffusing odor or "note," and evaporating at different times. More precisely, each fragrance has what is called a "top note," which is the odor diffused first upon application of the fragrance or upon opening the container; a "heart or middle note," which corresponds to the complete fragrance (emitted for a few hours after the "top note"); and a The "base note" is the most persistent scent (emitted for several hours after the "heart note"). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the fragrance's longevity.
[0034] For the purposes of this invention, "perfuming substance" means any perfume, any fragrant raw material, or any aroma capable of emitting a pleasant odor, in particular as defined below. The terms "perfuming," "fragrant," and "odoriferous" are synonymous for the purposes of this invention.
[0035] For the purposes of this invention, "keratinous materials" means, in particular, skin, lips, hair, scalp, eyelashes and eyebrows, or nails, especially skin and / or lips, preferably skin, and preferably skin of the body and / or face, and more preferably of the face.
[0036] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." are equivalent and are meant to mean that the bounds are included, unless otherwise stated.
[0037] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".
[0038] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages (i.e., mass percentages). Percentages are therefore expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.
[0039] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application on keratinous materials, particularly on the skin and / or lips, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., one compatible with the skin and / or lips. Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., one that has a pleasant color, odor, and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, such as tingling, tightness, or redness, that might discourage the user from applying the composition.
[0040] For the purposes of this invention, "optical isomer" means enantiomers, which are configurational isomers that are mirror images of each other but are not superimposable. In particular, they may be conformational stereoisomers, i.e., compounds differing by rotation around a single bond, or configurational stereoisomers, especially enantiomers or diastereomers.
[0041] For the purposes of this invention, "solvated" means the form of the compound when it is associated with a solvent. Solvates include conventional solvates formed during the compound preparation process. Examples Solvated are those obtained in the presence of water or a linear or branched alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
[0042] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrate" means the form of the compound when the latter is associated with water.
[0043] By "alkyl" is meant a saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched. A (Cx-Cz)alkyl group represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched comprising x to z carbon atoms, in particular from Ci to Ci2, more particularly Ci-Ci0, preferably in Ci-C6, even more preferably in Cr C4, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl.
[0044] By "alkoxy" is meant an "alkoxy" or alkyl-oxy or alkyl-O- group with alkyl as defined above. An (Cx-Cz)alkoxy group represents an -O-(CX-Cz)alkyl radical, in which the (Cx-Cz)alkyl group is as defined above.
[0045] For the purposes of this invention, "UV filter" means any compound that filters ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range from 280 nm to 400 nm.
[0046] By "UV-B filter" is meant any compound that filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range from 280 nm to 320 nm.
[0047] The term "UV-A filter" refers to any compound that filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range from 320 nm to 400 nm. Short-wave UV-A filters (absorbing rays with a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm) and long-wave UV-A filters (absorbing rays with a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm) can be distinguished.
[0048] By "organic" UV filter is meant a hydrocarbon UV-A and / or UV-B filter comprising at least one aromatic group, free of minerals.
[0049] By "inorganic" UV filter is meant a mineral UV-A and / or UV-B filter.
[0050] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic compound cosmetic or dermatological filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0051] By "hydrophobic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.
[0052] For the purposes of the invention, "fat phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the fat-soluble and lipophilic ingredients or fatty substances required according to the invention.
[0053] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0055] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0056] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0057] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of to evaporate upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, specifically a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mmHg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). "Non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0058] In the present invention, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0059] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0060] For the purposes of this invention, "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water (or aqueous phase) content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition, or even less than 0.5%, and in particular free of water. In this definition, the water mentioned includes residual water from the mixed ingredients.
[0061] The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
[0062] By "charge," we mean colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they allow for the impartation from the body or rigidity to the composition, and / or the softness and uniformity to the application. They are distinct from coloring materials.
[0063] Other features, variations and advantages of the invention will become clearer from the description and examples that follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. Detailed description
[0064] As indicated above, the present invention relates in particular to the use of i) one or more compound(s) of general formula (I) as defined above, to inhibit and / or attenuate and / or mask the odor ii) one or more organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s), as well as compositions containing it. i) Compound(s) of formula (I)
[0065] The compound(s) of formula (I) according to the invention are represented by the general formula (I) as defined above, preferably of formula (II) as well as their organic or mineral base salts, or one of their solvates such as hydrates:
[0066] [Chem.2] "HAS
[0067] formula (II) in which: • R i, and R 2, are such as defined previously in formula (I), more particularly
[0068] - R i represents a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, plus particularly ethyl and
[0069] - R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, plus Preferably R2 represents a hydrogen atom such as methyl.
[0070] According to one embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) of formula (I) or (II) is / are such that, taken together or separately: • R i represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably ethyl; and • R 2 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably (CrC4)alkyl such as methyl;
[0071] more preferably the compound(s) of formula (I), or (II) is / are chosen from among the (Ci-C4)alkylvanillin such as ethylvanillin.
[0072] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of compound(s) of formula (I), or (II), as defined above, their salts of organic or mineral base, acid salts of base or mineral, or their solvates such as hydrates, between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.15% and 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio of compound(s) of formula (I) to the sum of ii) organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) and inorganic UV filter(s) iii) [also noted i) / (ii+iii)] is less than 1. ii) Organic UV filter(s)
[0074] As stated above, i) the compound(s) of formula (I), and (II), as defined(s) is / are used in association with ii) one or more organic UV filter(s) selected from organic UV-A filters and / or UV-B filters.
[0075] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the UV filter(s) is / are chosen from among hydrophilic, hydrophobic organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters and / or mineral UV filters.
[0076] Preferably, they are chosen from organic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic UV filters.
[0077] ii)-a) Hydrophobic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filter(s)
[0078] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the UV filters are chosen from among organic UV-B and / or UV-A hydrophobic filters, and more specifically: 1) para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, 2) cinnamyl derivatives, 3) Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, 4) salicylic derivatives, 5) 3,3-diphenylacrylate and 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, 6) Benzophenone derivatives, 7) benzylidene camphor derivatives, 8) Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, 9) triazine derivatives, 10) anthranilic derivatives, 11) Imidazoline derivatives, 12) Benzalmalonate derivatives, 13) merocyanine derivatives, 14) cyano derivatives, and their mixtures.
[0079] More specifically, the organic UV-B and / or UV-A hydrophobic filter(s) is / are chosen from:
[0080] 1) derivatives or esters of para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular of formula (V) as well as their optical and geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0081] [Chem.3] o At R22 rix R2Q, jJ (II)
[0082] Formula (V) wherein: - R20 and R21, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl and isobutyl; - R22 represents a group chosen from the following groups of formulas (A) to (H):
[0083] [Tables 1]
[0084] Formulas (A) to (H) wherein:
[0085] • R4 and R5, whether identical or different, preferably different, represent a group (C2-Cio)alkyl, in particular (C2-C8)alkyl, more particularly (C2-C6)alkyl, preferably R4 represents an ethyl group, and R5 represents an n-butyl group; • R6, R7, R8, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a phenyl or benzyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or else R6, and R7, are identical and represent a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R8 different from R6 and R7, represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably branched (C4-C6)alkyl such as 2,2-dimethylpropyl; • R'6, R'7, R'8, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, a phenyl, benzyl, phenoxy, or benzoxy group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group and in particular a methyl group; • R9 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; • R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, and R15, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; • R16, R17, R18, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; • R'18 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • n is equal to 0 or 1, preferably 1; • R, R, R, and R, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, it being understood that two alkoxy radicals cannot be carried by the same carbon atom; •R,R,R,R, andR, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, it being understood that at least one of the groups R,R,R,R, and R represents a t-butyl group; preferably R,R,R, and R represent a hydrogen atom and R25 represents a t-butyl group; • R28, and R29, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; • R30 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, particularly a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, especially methyl, preferably R20 represents a hydrogen atom; • R31, and R33, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom; • R33, and R34, identical or different, preferably different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl; • the pattern:
[0086] [Chem.6]
[0087] represents the part of the group that is bonded to the rest of the molecule; and
[0088] • the pattern:
[0089] [Chem.7]
[0090] represents a single or double bond, preferably double;
[0091] - or R22 represents a (Ci-C2o)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl or a formula group (A) as defined above.
[0092] In particular, the derivatives or esters of para-aminobenzoic acid, (P AB A) can be chosen from the (Ci-C6)alkyl)PABA of formula (V) in which: - R20 and R21, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl and isobutyl; - R22 represents a (Ci-C2o)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl.
[0093] In particular, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives or esters are selected from Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, for example that marketed under the name "Escalol 507" by ISP, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] More particularly, the derivatives or esters of para-aminobenzoic acid, (PABA) can be selected from Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, or mixtures thereof.
[0095] 2) cinnamyl derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (VI), as well as their Optical and geometric isomers and their solvates: (VI)
[0097] Formula (VI) wherein: - R20 represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular a (Cr-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl; and - R22 represents a chosen group of formula groups (A) to (H) as defined previously, or a (Ci-C20)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, i-propyl, butyl and i-amyl.
[0098] In particular, the cinnamyl derivatives or esters may be chosen from compounds of formula (III) in which: - R20 represents a hydrogen atom, or an (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl; - R22 represents a (Ci-C2o)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, i-propyl, butyl and i-amyl.
[0099] In particular, the cinnamic derivatives or esters may be selected from Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, for example that marketed under the trade name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate, for example that marketed under the trade name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer, Cinoxate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof.
[0100] More particularly, the cinnamic derivatives or esters may be selected from Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate, Cinoxate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] This may include Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate.
[0102] 3) dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular of formula (VII) and their optical and geometric isomers, as well as their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and their solvates: (VII)
[0104] Formula (VII) wherein: - RI8 represents a hydrogen atom, a group chosen from those of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, or represents a linear or branched CrC8 alkyl, preferably a branched C4-C8 alkyl, more particularly RI8 represents a group of formula (B) as defined previously, or a linear or branched Ci to C6 alkyl group; - R19 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C6 alkyl group in Ci, a linear or branched C4 alkoxy group in Ci, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and i-propyl, a methoxy or ethoxy group; it being understood that R18 and R19 cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom.
[0105] In particular, dibenzoylmethane derivatives may be selected from compounds of formula (VII) in which RI8 and R19, identical or different, preferably different, represent a group selected from (A) to (H) as defined above, in particular a linear or branched C1 to C16 alkyl group; or a linear or branched C1 to C16 alkoxy group, in particular a (CrC8)alkoxy group; or then RI8 represents a hydrogen atom; preferably RI8 represents a Ci-C6 alkoxy group, preferably CrC4, such as methoxy, and R19 represents a group chosen from (A) to (H), and in particular a linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl, preferably a branched C4-C8, and more particularly R19 represents a group chosen from the formula groups (B).
[0106] In particular, dibenzoylmethane derivatives may be selected from compounds of formula (V II) in which: - RI8 represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C6 to C1 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; and - R19 represents a linear or branched C6 alkyl group in Ci, a linear or branched C4 alkoxy group in Ci, in particular a (CrC8)alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and i-propyl.
[0107] In particular, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives may be selected from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, also called t-Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, for example that marketed under the trade name "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann La Roche, and Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, for example that marketed under the trade name "Eusolex 8020" by Merck, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] More specifically, the derivative of dibenzoylmethane is Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
[0109] 4) salicylic derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (V III) as well as their Optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates: (VIII)
[0111] Formula (VIII) wherein: - R13 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, benzyl or alkyl in C4-C2o, branched, in particular in C6-C12, more preferably in C8-C1o branched, more particularly R13 represents a group of formula (A) or benzyl; - R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C2o alkyl radical, possibly forming rings, in particular represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, preferably a hydrogen atom;
[0112] In particular, the salicylic derivatives or esters may be selected from compounds of formula (VIII) in which: - R13 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, or a C4-C2O alkyl group, branched, in particular at C6-Ci2, more preferably at C8-Ci0, branched, more particularly R13 represents a alkyl radical in C6 to Ci6 substituted by at least one methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and / or ter-butyl radical; - R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched, optionally cyclic C1-C20 alkyl radical, in particular represents a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H), and preferably is a hydrogen atom.
[0113] Salicylic derivatives or esters may in particular be selected from Homosalate, for example that marketed under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, for example that marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer, Benzyl salicylate, Dipropylene glycol Salicylate, in particular sold under the name "Dipsal" by Scher, TEA Salicylate, in particular sold under the name "NEO Heliopan TS" by Symrise, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, in particular corresponding to the commercial product Neo Heliopan OS.
[0115] 5) 3,3-diphenylacrylate derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (IX) thus that their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates, and the derivatives or diesters of 4,4-diarylbutadiene, in particular of formula (IX') as well as their optical and geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0116] [Chem.7] •s"; (VI) (IX)
[0117] [Chem.8] (VT) (IX')
[0118] Formulas (IX) and (IX') wherein: - R15 and R15', whether identical or different, represent a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, or a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, or ter- butyl, preferably ethyl, hexyl or a group of formula (A) as defined above; - R16, R' 16, R17 and R' 17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-Ci2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci6 alkoxy radical, preferably R16, R' 16, R17 and R' 17, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as methyl.
[0119] In particular, the derivatives or esters of 3,3-diphenylacrylate may be selected from compounds of formula (IX) in which: - R15 represents a linear or branched C6 Ci alkyl group, preferably linear such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl; more preferably ethyl; and -R16 and R17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-Cio alkyl group, or a linear or branched Ci-Cio alkoxy radical, preferably representing a hydrogen atom.
[0120] In particular, the derivatives or esters of 3,3-diphenylacrylate may be selected from the derivatives of 3,3-diphenyl-2-cyanoacrylate, in particular of formula (IX) as well as their optical or geometric isomers, and their solvates, in which: - R15 represents a group selected from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above, in particular a linear or branched C6 to Ci6 alkyl group, substituted by at least one methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl or ter-butyl radical; - R16 and R17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-Ci2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci6 alkoxy radical, preferably R16 and R17 represent a hydrogen atom.
[0121] Preferably, R15 represents a C6 to C8 alkyl radical substituted by at least one ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, more particularly, RI5 represents a C6 alkyl radical substituted by at least one ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, even more preferably R15 represents a group of formula (A).
[0122] In particular, this refers to Octocrylene, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul N539" by BASF, Etocrylene, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF, and the following filters (1), (2) and (3) and their mixtures:
[0123] [Chem.9]
[0124] [Chem. 10] CH,
[0125] (2) [Chem. 11]
[0126]
[0127]
[0128]
[0129] Etocrylene is particularly suitable for the invention, such as that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF. 6) Derivatives or esters of benzophenone, in particular of formula (X), as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates: [Chem. 12] OH O (VH) (X) Formula (X) in which: - G1 represents a hydrogen atom, an R1R2N- group, or Rl-O-, with RI and R2, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in the form of Ci-Cio, linear or branched, preferably in linear Ci-C8, or else RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom which bears them form a heterocycle with 5 or 6 links, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated such as pyrrolidino, piperazino, piperidino, or morpholino; - G2 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, (CrC4)alkyl, such as methyl, or a -C(O)-O-R3 group with R3 representing a linear or branched Ci-Ci2 carbon chain, possibly forming one or more rings, in particular a (C4-Ci0)alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched (C6-Cio)alkyl group, preferably linear such as n-butyl, preferably a -C(0)-0-R3 group, in particular G2 is positioned ortho to the carbonyl; - G1 can be in position 3 or 5 of the carbonyl (in meta position relative to the hydroxy or para of the carbonyl).
[0130] Preferably, G1 represents an R1R2N- group and the radicals RI and R2 are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, pentyl optionally substituted at position 2 or 3 by a methyl or ethyl group.
[0131] Preferably, RI and R2 are chosen from ethyl, propyl, and butyl.
[0132] When RI and R2 together form with the nitrogen atom on which they are mounted a heterocycle, in particular a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl. Preferably, RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom bearing them form a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group.
[0133] This refers in particular to Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF, Benzophenone-4, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF, Benzophenone-8, for example that marketed under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] In particular, the derivatives or esters of benzophenone may be selected from compounds of formula (X'):
[0135] [Chem. 13] (LIVELY) (X')
[0136] Formula (X') in which: - RI and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C8 alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably Ci-C6, or else RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom on which they are based form a heterocycle with 5 or 6 links, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, such as pyrrolidino, piperazino, piperidino, or morpholino; - R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi2 carbon chain, possibly forming one or more rings, in particular a (C4-Ci0)alkyl group, of preferably a (C6-CiO)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as n-butyl; and - NR1R2 can be in position 3 or 5 of the phenolic ring (in meta position relative to the hydroxy).
[0137] Preferably, the radicals RI and R2 are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched CrC4 alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, pentyl optionally substituted at position 2 or 3 by a methyl or ethyl group.
[0138] Preferably, RI and R2 are chosen from an ethyl, propyl and butyl group.
[0139] When RI and R2 together form with the nitrogen atom that bears them a heterocycle, in particular a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl. Preferably, RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom bearing them form a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group.
[0140] Benzophenone derivatives may in particular be selected from Benzophenone-1, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; Benzophenone-2, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; Benzophenone-6, in particular sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; Benzophenone-8, in particular sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-10; Benzophenone-11; Benzophenone-12.
[0141] Benzophenone derivatives are preferably selected from n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, for example sold under the trade name "Uvinul A+" by BASF.
[0142] 7) camphor benzylidene derivatives, in particular of formula (XI) and their Optical isomers, geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0143] [Chem. 14] P 2 4 $26 (VIII) (XI)
[0144] Formula (XI) wherein: - R16, R17, R18, and n are such as defined in the preceding formula (E); - R23 represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R24 represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, or R27-C(O)-X-(CH2)P- with R27 representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl, (C2-C4)alkenyl group, X representing an oxygen or NH atom, p being an integer between 0 and 4, in particular 1, particularly R24 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, preferably R24 is positioned para to the styryl group; and - R25 and R26, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy, (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, preferably a hydrogen atom; preferably R25 and R26 are positioned in meta of the styryl group;
[0145] In particular, this filter is selected from 3-Benzylidene camphor, for example that marketed under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, for example that marketed under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene camphor, for example that manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] 8) phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, in particular selected from those of formula (XII) as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates:
[0147] [Chem. 15] (K)
[0148] Formula (XII) wherein: - q is equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4, preferably q is zero; - R31, when q is 1, 2, 3 or 4, represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, linear or branched, or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkoxy group; - R32 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino or a (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, linear or branched, or linear or branched, (Ci-Cio)alkoxy linear or branched, preferably hydroxy, more particularly R32 is positioned on the phenyl group ortho to the benzotriazolyl group; - R33 represents a hydrogen atom, a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, a group chosen from: i) -(ALK)t-(A), ii) -(ALK)t-(B), iii) -(ALK)t-(C), iv) -(ALK)t-(D), v) -(ALK)t-(E), vi) -(ALK)t-(F) or -(ALK)t-(F'), vii) -(ALK)t-(G), and viii) -(ALK)t-(H), with t being 0 or 1, ALK representing a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably branched, more preferably a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkylene group, preferably branched, and (A) to (H) representing a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, a group (J) following:
[0149] [Chem. 16]
[0150] in which ALK is as defined above, preferably a methylene group, and R', R', R' and q' are as defined respectively for R, R, R34, and q, preferably R'31 = R31, R'32 = R32, R'34 = R34 and q' = q; - preferably R33 is positioned on the phenyl group meta to the benzotriazolyl group; - R34 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably branched, more preferably chosen from groups (A) and (B) as defined above, even more preferably (B) such as 'Bu-CH2 -C(CH3)2-,
[0151] Phenyl benzotriazole derivatives may be selected from 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-phenol derivatives, in particular those of formula (XIII), as well as their optical isomers, and their solvates:
[0152] [Chem. 17] ,----RS (XIII)
[0153] Formula (XIII) wherein: - R4 represents a linear or branched Ci-Ci2 carbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, possibly forming one or more rings, saturated or unsaturated, preferably R4 represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl; more preferably the radical R4 is located on the phenyl para of the hydroxy group; - R5 represents a carbon chain, linear or branched in Ci-C6, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, R5 more particularly represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular in (Ci-C4)alkyl and preferably methyl; - R6 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, preferably R6 represents RR'R”Si- with R, R”, R'”, identical or different represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, or tri(Ci-C4)alkylsiloxy group, preferably R6 represents a group chosen from the groups of formula (C) or (D), more preferably R6 is of formula (XIV):
[0154] [Chem. 18] If R8. .0 ysi X °'-' SiMej (XJJ
[0155] with R6 representing a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl, in particular such as methyl.
[0156] Preferably, R4, R5 and R6 represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl.
[0157] In particular, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives may be selected from silatrizole, for example Mexoryl XL, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, for example that marketed under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, for example that marketed, in solid form, under the trade name “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical or, in micronized form, in aqueous dispersion under the trade name “Tinosorb M” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4,6-bis(l-methyl-l-phenylethyl)phenol, for example that marketed under the name HMPB2 or Eversorb 89.
[0158] It may preferably be silatrizole.
[0159] 9) triazine derivatives, in particular selected from those of formulas (XV) or (XV'), as well as their optical isomers, tautomers and their solvates:
[0160] [Chem. 19] (XV)
[0161] [Chem.20] (XV')
[0162] Formulas (XV) and (XV') in which: - Xa, Xb, and Xc, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a bond, an oxygen atom, -N(Ra)- with Ra representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Xa, Xb, and Xc, are identical and represent a bond or -N(H)-, more preferably -N(H)-; - R, R, and R, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy group, linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl, linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkoxy, or a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, preferably a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group; in particular R, R, and R are positioned ortho to the phenyls linked to the triazine group; - G represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, preferably a group of formula (A) as defined previously; - R3 6, R3 8, and R40, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from a) (Ci-C6)alkyl linear or branched, b) (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl, c) (Ci-C6)alkoxy linear or branched such as methoxy, d) (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl, e) (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino, f) (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)aminocarbonyl, in particular such as '-butylaminocarbonyl, g) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)carbonylamino, h) -C(R41)=C[C(O)-O-R42 ]2, i) -(X')t-(A), j) -(X')t-(B), k) -(X')t-(C), l) -(X')t-(D), m) -(X')t-(E), n) -(X')t-(F) or -(X')t-(F'), o) -(X')t-(G), p) -(X')t-(H), q) 2-(benzo)oxazolyl optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, linear or branched, preferably branched, r) 2-(benzo)imidazolyl optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, linear or branched, preferably branched, s) 2-(benzo)triazolyl optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, linear or branched, preferably branched;with (A) to (H) being a group of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously; R41 representing a hydrogen atom or a (Cr C4)alkyl group, R42 representing a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably branched such as t-butyl, t being 0 or 1, preferably 1, X' representing a group; ALK as defined above, or Y; with Y representing an oxygen atom, -N(H)-, -C(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(H)-, -N(H)-C(O)-, -OC(O)-N(H)- or -N(H)-C(O)-O-, or -N(H)-C(O)-N(H)- preferably Y represents an ester; more particularly the R36 groups represent a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, linear or branched, such as methoxy, or -C(O)-O-(A), R38, and R40, identical or different, preferably identical, represent -O-(A) or -C(O)-O-(A) with (A) being a group of formula (A) as defined above; in particular, R36, R38, and R40 are positioned para to phenyl groups linked to the triazine group; it being understood that at least two groups R35 to R40 are different from a hydrogen atom.
[0163] In particular, the triazine derivatives may be selected from the derivatives of 2,4-bis(hydroxyphen-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, preferably those of formula (XVI) as well as their optical isomers and their solvates:
[0164] [Chem.21] OH N<-'' K OH R?OZ (XIII) (XVI)
[0165] Formula (XVI) wherein: - R7 and R8, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group selected from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously or a C4-C2O alkyl, branched, in particular at C6-Ci2, more preferably at C8-CiO, branched, possibly forming one or more rings, preferably R7 and R8 represent a group selected from the groups of formula (A) as defined previously; and - R9 represents a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkoxy such as methoxy;
[0166] In particular, triazine derivatives may also be selected from 2,4,6-tri(anilino)-1,3,5-triazine, in particular of formula (XVII) as well as their optical isomers, and their solvates:
[0167] [Chem.22] Z ' " HN'"' x X ' ' <■' ■■ x X 'NH (XIV) (XVII)
[0168] Formula (XVII) in which: - X1, X2, and X3, identical or different, preferably identical, represent an oxygen atom or an NR' 12 group, preferably X1, X2, and X3 represent an oxygen atom; - RIO, R11 and R12, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above, or a C4-C20 alkyl, branched, in particular at C6-C12, more preferably at C8-C10 branched; and - R' 12 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C7-C2o alkyl radical, or a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H) as defined previously, or a branched C4-C20 alkyl, in particular C6-Ci2, more preferably branched C8-Ci0, in particular R' 12, represents a hydrogen atom or a formula group (A); with preferentially RIO, RI 1 and R12, representing a group of formula (A), particularly triazine derivatives of formula (XVII) are selected from tris(2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4''-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate (also called Ethylhexyl triazone, octyl triazone or marketed as Uvinul T150), tris(2-ethyl-2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, and the tris(2-ethyloctyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate and mixtures thereof.
[0169] In particular, triazine derivatives may be selected from Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, for example that marketed under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul T150" by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate of düsobutyl)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-6-(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisi loxane)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine, for example that marketed under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V, tris(2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, tris(2-ethyl-2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, and the tris(2-ethyloctyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Preferably, the triazine derivatives may be selected from 2,2'-[6-(4-Methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]bis{5-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]phenol}, also known as Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S, Anisotriazine, and mixtures thereof. The filter marketed under the name Tinosorb S is particularly suitable.
[0171] Preferably, the triazine derivatives can be selected from tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate (Uvinul T150) and / or 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl]amino]-l,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate.
[0172] Preferably, this is 2,4,6-tri(anilino)-l,3,5-triazine, notably marketed under the name ethylhexyl triazone or Uvinul T150.
[0173] 10) anthranilic derivatives, in particular of formula (XVIII), as well as their Optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates:
[0174] [Chem.23] (XV) (XVIII)
[0175] Formula (XVIII) in which: - Y is such as defined previously in particular -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, preferably Y represents -C(O)-O-; - R43 to R46, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R4 7 represents a group of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above, preferably formulas (F) or (F'), more preferably (F') such as menthyl; and in particular menthyl anthranilate, sold notably under the trade name "NEO Heliopan MA" by Symrise.
[0176] 11) imidazoline derivatives, in particular those of formula (XIV) and their optical and geometric isomers, their tautomers and their solvates:
[0177] [Chem.24] (XIV)
[0178] Formula (XIV) in which: - R47, R48, and R49, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, linear or branched, in particular R47 represents a hydrogen atom, and R48, and R49 represent a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; - R5o represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably hydrogen; - R51 represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably hydrogen -ALK'-(Y)t-(A), -ALK'-(Y)t-(B), -ALK'-(Y)t-(C), -ALK'-(Y)t-(D), -ALK'-(Y)t-(E), -ALK'-(Y)t-(F) or -ALK'-(Y)t-(F'), -ALK'-(Y)t-(G), and -ALK'-(Y)t-(H) with t being 0 or 1, preferably 1, (A) to (H) representing a group of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above with Y as defined above, preferably Y represents an ester, and more particularly -C(O)-O-(A); and in particular Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
[0179] 12) benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular polyorganosiloxanes with functional benzalmalonate, in particular Polysilicone-15, notably sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., and Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0180] 13) merocyanine derivatives, in particular octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2- phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.
[0181] 14) cyano derivatives, in particular (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamin] o)cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene]2-ethoxyethyl acetate ((2Z)-2-Cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene]acetic acid 2-ethoxyethyl ester (Mexoryl 400), as well as its geometric isomers 2E.
[0182] ii)- b) Hydrophilic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters
[0183] Among the hydrophilic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters, hydrophilic UV-A filters may be cited in particular, such as bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323, and US 2 463 264, and more particularly the compound Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazo tetra-sulfonate, notably sold under the trade name "NEO Heliopan AP" by Symrise.
[0184] We can also mention Terephtalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (sold for example under the trade name Mexoryl SX).
[0185] Among the hydrophilic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters, hydrophilic UV-B filters such as can be specifically mentioned:
[0186] - the following p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives: PABA; Glyceryl PABA; and PEG-25 PABA, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul P25" by BASF; - Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid, in particular sold under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by MERCK; - ferulic acid; - salicylic acid; - DEA methoxycinnamate; - benzylidene camphor Sulfonic Acid, in particular sold under the name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; - camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, in particular sold under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex.
[0187] According to a preferred embodiment, the use and / or composition according to the invention implements ii) one or more hydrophobic organic UV filter(s).
[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, the use and / or composition according to the invention implements one or more UV filters chosen from ii) hydrophobic organic UV-A filters, hydrophobic organic UV-B filters, and / or mixed hydrophobic organic UV-A and UV-B filters.
[0189] More preferably, the use and / or composition according to the invention implements ii) one or more organic UV filter(s) selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, triazine derivatives and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives.
[0190] According to a preferred embodiment, the use and / or composition according to the invention implements ii) one or more organic UV filter(s) selected from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention ii) the organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) as defined above is / are present in a weight quantity less than or equal to 30%, particularly less or equal to 20%, more particularly less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0192] According to a preferred embodiment, ii) the organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) as defined above is / are in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.04% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0193] According to one embodiment of the invention, the total weight in the composition of ii) organic UV filter(s) as defined above + iii) inorganic UV filter(s) as defined below is / are present in a weight of less than 30%, more particularly less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably the total weight of ii) inorganic UV filter(s) as defined above + iii) inorganic UV filter(s) as defined below is / are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.04% to 5% by weight, and better 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is such that the mass ratio of the total quantity of ii) organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) as defined above and iii) possibly in inorganic UV filter(s) as defined above to the quantity of compound(s) of formula (I), or (II), as defined above, [also noted (ii+iii) / (i)] is greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 100, more preferably greater than 400, even more preferably greater than or equal to 500.
[0195] More particularly the composition of the invention is such that the mass ratio (ii +iii) / (i) is between 2 and 2000, particularly between 10 and 1000, more particularly between 50 and 800.
[0196] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention does not include iii) inorganic UV filter(s).
[0197] In particular, the composition according to the invention is such that the weight quantity of ii) inorganic UV filter(s) is / are in weight quantity less than 20%, more particularly less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. iii) Inorganic UV filter(s)
[0198] The use and / or composition according to the invention may also incorporate one or more inorganic (or mineral) UV filter(s). The pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0199] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0200] As is known, silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
[0201] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes required for their preparation, in particular, alkyl silanes.
[0202] The silicones used for coating pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogenosiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes.
[0203] Of course, metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0204] Coated pigments are, for example, coated titanium oxides: - silica, in particular the product "Sunveil" from the company Ikeda and the product "Eusolex T-Avo" from the company Merck; - of silica and iron oxide, in particular the product "Sunveil F" from the company Ikeda, - of silica and alumina, in particular the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" from the company Tayca, "Tioveil" from the company Tioxide, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from the company Rhodia, - alumina, in particular the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from the Ishihara company, and "UVT 14 / 4" from the Kemira company, - of alumina and aluminium stearate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01" from the company Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W", "Solaveil CT 100" and "Solaveil CT 200" from the company Uniqema, - of silica, alumina and alginic acid, in particular the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca, - of alumina and aluminum laurate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from the company Tayca, - iron oxide and iron stearate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from the company Tayca, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, in particular the product "BR351" from the company Tayca, - of silica and alumina and treated with silicone, in particular the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" from the company Tayca, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, in particular the product "STT-30-DS" from the company Titan Kogyo, - of silica and treated with silicone, in particular the product "UV-Titan X 195" from the company Kemira, or the product SMT-100 WRS from the company Tayca, - of alumina and treated with silicone, in particular the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" from the Ishihara company, or "UV Titan M 262" from the Kemira company, - triethanolamine, in particular the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo, - stearic acid, in particular the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" from Ishihara, - sodium hexametaphosphate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from the company Tayca.
[0205] Other titanium oxide pigments treated with silicone are, for example, TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by Cardre, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "Micro Titanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
[0206] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B" or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600 B”, by the company Degussa under the name “P 25”, by the company Wackher under the name “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW”, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name “UFTR”, by the company Tomen under the name “ITS” and by the company Tioxide under the name “Tioveil AQ”.
[0207] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; - those marketed under the name "Nanox" by the company Elementis; - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0208] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0209] - those marketed under the name "Z-Cote HP1" by the company Sunsmart (ZnO coated with dimethicone), - those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane), - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by the company Nanophase Technologies (in dispersion at 40% in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate), - those marketed under the name "Daitopersion ZN-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated by silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane), - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane), - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane), - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone), - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane), - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0210] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide".
[0211] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the Arnaud company under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ", "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by the Mitsubishi company under the name "TY-220".
[0212] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345", "Nanogard FE 45 BL", or by the company BASF under the name "Transparent iron oxide".
[0213] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name "Sunveil A", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261" sold by the company Kemira or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211" sold by the company Kemira.
[0214] Pigments can be introduced as such or in the form of pigment paste, i.e. mixed with a dispersant, as described for example in document GB 2206339.
[0215] According to a particular embodiment, the use and / or composition according to the invention does not implement iii) inorganic UV filter.
[0216] According to another particular embodiment, the use and / or composition according to the invention, which comprises iii) one or more inorganic UV filter(s).
[0217] According to a particular embodiment, the quantity iii) of the inorganic UV filter(s) may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, it ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, particularly from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0218] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is such that the weight quantity of ii) inorganic UV filter(s) + iii) inorganic UV filter(s) is / are in a weight quantity of less than 5%, more particularly less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably the total weight quantity of ii) inorganic UV filter(s) + iii) inorganic UV filter(s) is / are in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.04% to 1% by weight, and better from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fragrance substances
[0219] A composition according to the invention may comprise one or more perfumer substances distinct from the compound(s) of formula (I).
[0220] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.01% by weight of perfumer substance(s) distinct from the compounds of formula (I), in particular at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at most 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, or is free from any perfumer substance(s) distinct from the compounds of formula (I), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] Perfume substances are compositions containing, among other things, the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.
[0223] A composition according to the invention may in particular include at least one perfumer substance selected from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
[0225] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is an odorous product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not result in a significant change in composition.
[0226] The choice of method for obtaining essential oils depends primarily on the raw material: its original state and characteristics, its very nature. The yield of "essential oil / plant raw material" can vary considerably depending on the plant: from 15 ppm to over 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular its viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, and enrichment or depletion of certain constituents.
[0227] Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization, in the presence of water vapor, of a substance that is only slightly miscible with water. The raw material is placed in the presence of water The essential oil is brought to a boil or steamed in a still. The steam carries the essential oil vapor, which is condensed in the condenser and collected in liquid form in a Florentine flask (or essential oil separator), where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate remaining after steam distillation, once the essential oil has been separated, is called "aromatic water," "hydrosol," or "floral distillate."
[0228] Dry distillation involves obtaining the essential oil by distilling wood, bark, or roots, without the addition of water or steam, in a closed container designed so that the liquid is collected at the bottom. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of extraction.
[0229] The cold-pressing method is applicable only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) by mechanical processes at ambient temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the peels are shredded and the contents of the ruptured secretory sacs are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists of applying an abrasive action to the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After the removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations actually allow for the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.
[0230] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them scatter polarized light. They are lipophilic and soluble in common organic solvents, steam-distillable, and very slightly soluble in water.
[0231] Among the essential oils usable according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Annonaceae, for example ylang-ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, rock samphire, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodiaceae; Cistaceae, for example rockrose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae, for example wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae, for example geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hemandiaceae; Hypericaceae, for example St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae;Lamiaceae, for example thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjoram, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, the; lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae, for example ravensara, bay leaf, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp, or hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, for example roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, for example all citrus fruits; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, for example sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, for example benzoin; Thymelaceae, for example agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, for example valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, for example lantana, verbena; Violaceae;Zingiberaceae, for example galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
[0232] We can also mention essential oils extracted from flowers (ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, calamus, ginger), woods (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).
[0233] Examples of perfumer substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-enylcarboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyltetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-l, isobutyrate of , phenoxyethyl, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, aubepinonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl oxide, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, macrocyclic ketones, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
[0234] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfumer substances is used which together produce a pleasant note for the user.
[0235] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of perfumer substances, in particular of at least two distinct perfumer substances, and preferably of at least three distinct perfumer substances.
[0236] Perfume substances will preferably be chosen so that they produce notes (top, middle and base) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes in particular pink and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fougère, and leathery.
[0237] According to a particular embodiment, the perfumer substance(s) used in a composition according to the invention is / are distinct from the essential oils.
[0238] Preferably, a composition according to the invention uses one or more natural perfumer substances, preferably producing notes in the following families: floral notes in particular pink flowers and white flowers, gourmand notes, and their mixtures.
[0239] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention uses one or more perfumer substances belonging to the floral, green, citrus, ozonic, marine, aldehyde, musky, powdery, soft woody, fruity, aromatic, gourmand, amber olfactory families.
[0240] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention uses one or more perfumer substances belonging to the edible, spicy, leathery and optionally fruity, balsamic and aromatic olfactory families. Aqueous phase
[0241] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.
[0242] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, when present, comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
[0243] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 5% to 90% by weight of water, more preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0244] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 15% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0245] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may be volatile.
[0246] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0247] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
[0248] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
[0249] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
[0250] Polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0251] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol (also called octane-1,2-diol), butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers like diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0252] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one polyol, preferably selected from caprylyl glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0253] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention can be anhydrous. Fatty phase
[0254] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.
[0255] Thus, a composition according to the invention may include a fatty phase comprising at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil, and optionally at least one additional wax and / or a paste.
[0256] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight of fat phase, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils
[0257] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, particularly cosmetics, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0258] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0259] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0260] The oily phase may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.
[0261] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals, provided that these oils are environmentally friendly. Volatile oils
[0262] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.
[0263] We can mention in particular among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, the C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.
[0264] One may also mention volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, and their mixtures.
[0265] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
[0266] Examples of cyclic siliconized volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
[0267] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used. Non-volatile oils
[0268] Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
[0269] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof, - Non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20 °C measured with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer. "Non-volatile alkane" means a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20 °C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March 1992: "Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K". In particular, non-volatile alkanes comprise 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame seed oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, and Limanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam)). Seed Oil); or even caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyle myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 atoms of carbon,such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the trade product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; Hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates,such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester and Ci-C6 alcohols with INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters,more specifically chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl, dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof, - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" by Ajinomoto, - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids in the C12-C22 range, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis; - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils. Other fats
[0270] A fatty phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in an oil, other fatty substances suitable for the invention.
[0271] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase include, for example: - fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - waxes, such as paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; - silicone elastomers such as products marketed under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil" or "BY29" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries; - a gum chosen from among the silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.
[0272] As a fat, a composition according to the invention may also include at least one butter, more particularly a vegetable butter.
[0273] The vegetable butter(s) suitable for the invention are preferably chosen from the group including avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, annatto butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.
[0274] These fats can be chosen in a variety of ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
[0275] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, carbonates, phenylated silicone oils, as well as mixtures of these different oils.
[0276] In particular, such oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one other fatty substance, in particular at least fatty acids comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Surfactants
[0278] A composition according to the invention may also include at least one surfactant.
[0279] Surfactants may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of that reference, for anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactant
[0280] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0281] Nonionic surfactants may be selected in particular from among alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylated alcohols, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, glycerol esters, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, geminated surfactants, cetyl alcohol, alcohol stearyl, and their mixtures.
[0282] Examples of glycerol esters include Ci6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters, in particular glyceryl fatty acid esters having 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerol fatty acid esters containing 8 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0283] Examples of glyceryl and fatty acid esters in Ci8 include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.
[0284] Examples of glycerol and fatty acid esters include mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50 / 50 mixture, marketed under the name Arlacel 165® by the company Croda, or the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, marketed under the name Tegin® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
[0285] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant, and preferably a surfactant selected from glycerol esters. Anionic surfactant
[0286] Anionic surfactants may be selected from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, Cw-Cw fatty acid metal salts, particularly Ci6-C25, especially metal stearates and behenates, alkali cetyl phosphate salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0287] Potassium cetylphosphate is one example of an alkali salt of cetyl phosphate. One example is the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name "Amphisol K" by DSM Nutritional Products. Cationic surfactant
[0288] Cationic surfactants can be selected from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (alkyl Ci2-3o)-tri(alkyl Ci4)ammonium halides like N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride). Amphoteric surfactant
[0289] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by Phoenix Chemical. Silicone surfactant
[0290] The composition may also include at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 °C, used alone or in mixtures, may be dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and non-ionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 at 25 °C, used alone or in mixtures, may be cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture.
[0291] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), and more preferably is devoid of silicone surfactant(s).
[0292] The surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention, in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling agent / Thickener
[0293] Depending on the desired fluidity of the composition, one or more thickeners and / or gelling agents can be incorporated into the composition.
[0294] Thickeners and / or gelling agents can be hydrophilic or lipophilic.
[0295] Thus, a composition according to the invention may include at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
[0296] The hydrophilic gelling agent may be selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.
[0297] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0298] The hydrophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from polysaccharides, and preferably is xanthan gum.
[0299] The hydrophilic gelling agent may in particular be selected from polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular from homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the monomer 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
[0300] A composition according to the invention may also include at least one lipophilic gelling agent.
[0301] The lipophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers, in particular chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).
[0302] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, as a lipophilic agent, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and preferably Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name). Additives
[0303] A composition according to the invention may further include any additional component commonly used in cosmetics, such as fillers, coloring materials, cosmetic actives, for example preservatives, antioxidants, emollients.
[0304] Additives are generally present at concentrations between 0.01% and 10% by weight of each additive relative to the total weight of the composition. Naturally, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the constituents of the composition are chosen in such a way that the properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered.
[0305] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient, preferably at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.
[0306] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents, antioxidant compounds, humectants, mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0307] The asset(s) may be chosen from among: - vitamins and their derivatives, including their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (like tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3; - humectants such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucosides, and xylityl glucoside; - antioxidant compounds, for example dibutyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; - C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol, notably marketed under the name Mexoryl SBB® or Mexoryl SCN® by Chimex; - anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, including sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds, particularly n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentylacetic acid; and - their mixtures.
[0308] A composition according to the invention may include at least one moisturizing agent (also called a humectant), in particular for a skincare application.
[0309] Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerin.
[0310] The moisturizing agent(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, or even from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0311] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient, in particular chosen from anti-aging agents, moisturizing agents, preferably glycerin, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.
[0312] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one filler, of an organic or mineral nature.
[0313] Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, examples include silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine, fumed silica particles, possibly treated hydrophilically or hydrophobically, and mixtures thereof.
[0314] The said filler(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Uses and purposes of the composition
[0315] As stated above, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compound(s) of general formula (I), or (II), as defined above to inhibit and / or attenuate and / or mask the odor of organic UV filters, in particular organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0316] In particular, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compound(s) of general formula (I), or (II), as defined above to inhibit the odor of organic UV filters, in particular organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0317] In particular, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compound(s) of general formula (I), or (II), as defined above to attenuate the odor of organic UV filters, in particular organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0318] In particular, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of one or more compound(s) of general formula (I), or (II), as defined above to mask the odor of organic UV filters, in particular organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
[0319] As stated previously, the use and composition according to the invention are preferably cosmetic.
[0320] A composition according to the invention is intended in particular for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials.
[0321] It is understood that the cosmetic uses and treatment processes referred to in this application are non-therapeutic.
[0322] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, of the lips in particular for the perfumery, the protection and / or the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, and / or of the lips, and / or for the makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or of the lips.
[0323] The invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.
[0324] A composition according to the invention may in particular be intended to be used to perfume keratin materials and / or clothing.
[0325] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, or of a garment, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials and / or said garment, a composition according to the invention.
[0326] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for perfuming keratinous materials, and in particular skin, and / or clothing, comprising the application to said keratinous materials and / or said clothing of the composition as defined above.
[0327] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for perfumed keratinous materials, in particular skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.
[0328] Also, a composition according to the invention may in particular be intended to be implemented for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.
[0329] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and in particular of the skin, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of the composition as defined above.
[0330] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of application on said keratinous materials, of a composition such as defined above.
[0331] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention can advantageously be intended for application on the skin, in particular of the body or face.
[0332] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be intended for application on the lips.
[0333] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention can also be used as a base composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.
[0334] Thus, another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials such as skin and lips, in particular perfumery products, skincare products, sun protection and daily photoprotection products, and makeup products. Forms of the composition
[0335] A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms classically used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.
[0336] For topical application to keratinous materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may have the form, in particular, of an aqueous or oily solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing an oily phase in a aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or conversely (water-in-oil), or suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency such as aqueous or anhydrous creams or gels, or microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to standard methods.
[0337] In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O), in the form of an anhydrous composition, in the form of an aqueous composition, or in the form of a bi-gel (or gel-gel) composition. A gel-gel composition is different from an emulsion.
[0338] The invention can be applied to perfumed products whose main function is to perfume, but also to skin and lip care, treatment and / or makeup products for which a pleasant scent is desired simultaneously.
[0339] The composition according to the invention can thus constitute a composition for perfumery, care, treatment and / or makeup of keratinous materials.
[0340] According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for perfuming the skin and / or keratin fibers, in particular the body or face, in particular the face.
[0341] A composition according to the invention can thus constitute a fragrance, skincare, or cosmetic treatment composition for keratinous materials, and in particular be presented in the form of eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, aftershave lotion, skincare water, silicone- or hydrosilicone-based skincare oil. It can also be presented in the form of a perfumed bi-phase lotion (eau de toilette phase / hydrocarbon oil and / or silicone oil phase), body lotion, or shampoo.
[0342] The compositions according to the invention can be packaged in the form of bottles.
[0343] According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention can in particular be in the form of a skin care composition and / or a composition for keratinous fibers, particularly for the body or face, particularly the face.
[0344] According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, in particular of the body or face, in particular of the face, and / or of the lips.
[0345] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.
[0346] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product.
[0347] It may constitute, for example, sun protection stick products for the face, makeup products for the skin, both for the face and the human body, and in particular in the form of coloured makeup products such as foundations poured in stick or cup form, blushes and blushes, lipsticks, concealers and temporary tattoo products, eye, eyebrow and / or hair makeup products such as eyeliners in pencil form and bar mascaras, body hygiene products.
[0348] It can be presented for example in the form of a lipstick or a lip balm, advantageously allowing, in addition to its purpose for makeup and / or lip care, the delivery of a pleasant scent to the lips.
[0349] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of skin care or semi-mucous membrane care products, such as a protective composition, cosmetic care for the face, for the lips, for the hands, for the feet, for anatomical folds or for the body (for example day creams, night cream, day serum, night serum, makeup remover cream, makeup base, anti-sun composition, protective or care body lotion, after-sun lotion, lotion, gel or mousse for skin or scalp care, serum, mask or after-shave composition).
[0350] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as skincare and / or sun protection and daily photoprotection products for the face and / or body, with a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as lotions, milks, creams of varying textures, gels, and gel-creams. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and be presented as a foam or spray.
[0351] In particular, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of an anti-aging skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face. Application of compositions
[0352] The method of application is in particular adjusted to the form in which the composition according to the invention is presented.
[0353] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or with an applicator.
[0354] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be applied directly onto the skin or, alternatively, onto occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic carriers, intended, for example, for localized application to the skin. Examples of cosmetic carriers include patches, wipes, roll-ons, masks, and pens.
[0355] In particular, the application of the composition can be done by spraying, especially using a sprayer.
[0356] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process particularly for perfumer and / or care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of application on said keratinous materials of at least one composition as defined above.
[0357] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic process is a process for protecting keratinous materials against UV-A and / or UV-B radiation, particularly from the skin, comprising at least one step of applying at least one composition as defined above to said keratinous materials. Preparation of the compositions
[0358] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.
[0359] A composition according to the invention can be manufactured by processes known to those skilled in the art, generally used in the cosmetic field.
[0360] It can be manufactured, for example, by obtaining a homogeneous mixture of the different ingredients of the composition.
[0361] In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 7.5.
[0362] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0363] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Measurement and evaluation methods
[0364] An olfactory evaluation of the formulas is carried out.
[0365] The evaluation is carried out by an expert after 3 years on a composition stored at room temperature and compared to a control composition not containing compound of formula (I), nor other perfume. Example 1
[0366] Composition 1, according to the invention, is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 2 below.
[0367] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0368] [Tables2] Ferœ AI Ess Ceprylyi Glyml__________ Phetioxvethanol (N»m& chiœi <p£t) | ( Jï •■ * &ïï d^^niêée miêwbl^ I * ? | auit^-1 ? d-vi__J 0AL-1 J 2- Pkên.oxvcthan0i [ 0.0? - 1 | Sedsw Hyaluronaie > - Ademsio A <jde éth'-lsne dianime tetrasé-étiem.. . ,. .. , ' x ' „ • a 0 ; „ A X j ;> The sound of so^nm (FM : * LW0.WO) and powder | ” '' ' § Adàæssme | 0s0I « 0J | Glycem Glvcerme 10 - Î0 1 1.....-^--------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------- will you be??'| G / üS -v OS J""" """" """" " " 1 1 l'iilil 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Homes.1 Üfeag. kere ____________ Eshvlhevd SalityHe Butyl '•Ca.«ii-» 3 '-Dspb.enYhcn.i3te de 3- . *,.1 » v ... ....... 14ô gmYlmamg___________________________________________ 1 &xdKvL3t£ l ï • 1***—10 .. L A.—-_________________________________--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sa----- 2-star | 1 - 10 L[L( M-dimethylé&yhph^^ L(4- $ | ntgthoxx'phesavljpropswi-'' 1 ' Lone | " " | : Dïmetbkœe WlvdhxsétlF4sd^^». 0 Ais-Psiîê: 5 .■ v - 1 " ♦ ". "jas Uxue tonœe ", - Internal Acidyvx 8 OM - 5 ____________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________| ____________________________________ Gewl Alcatel ] Alcohol cétyli^e | 0.01 - 5 | 1 Mdasgc dt i Sieste (md) 1 rising stearate of polymer A 1 TtG Sv^ate | sdycol (199 OE1 (ArlàceP-'- 165 | …………………………………………………………..CiochL……………………………..].……………………………… Caprvl^^ i Acide .n-oc.tànôyI-5 sali^ 9.01 -1 1 Dicaüîxh 1 Dicaüîxh u-' Varyl □rniethiccae Crucifixes | Cedkmte of di@eMs stabilized | CST} (L46) 1 Ammonium 1 Acid pohxKsskumdemeth'J psvpmo PchacQdos Msms&yl 1 ^dL'aique neussah^ partially at 0.01-5 | Jwatç J 1 arumaaMqu* ci hdxemeai reticulated [ Oies | Mcro^hèfe^ do ssheo amorphous {> ym) 0.01-5 To&spbro ] F' Dt. -alpha-t« opheroî | 0.01-1 EthylvanïHne Ethylvanilme 0?01 — 0f05 . such as G..Û25 Preparation of the composition
[0369] The compounds are mixed together in the quantities defined in g per 100 g in Table 2 above, under stirring. The mixing can be done in a container at a temperature between room temperature or by heating (preferably between 20°C and 80°C) under stirring. Results
[0370] The composition according to the invention has a pleasant odor. This phenomenon is observed after 3 years of storage of the composition at room temperature. Example 2
[0371] Composition 2, according to the invention, is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 3 below.
[0372] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0373] [Tables3] Fsmiah 2 feetrth® ■1^ massive Î0§ ; h Ufm 1 • 5 4-5 O1 -1 A«de diçasïphæe ot - i Dis uedaate 4' tesodèma &01 - 1 «1 -1 L 5 tæfaw 0J - 3 US Sdyçilste 44thyihexyl L-5 Efey thssjl tsiaamë 14 Mettaæw^dgs^ w&taeàOese 04 - 3 AsbacaSe 2 - W Copdlyaïfes de C12-22 sayhts d'alk^l^^fixv^^^sylste 041 - 5 Hêxyi de LyAs:^ W -1 Wglysêffefe c^syli$î®4api^ 04 • 2 Citrate de toetel - Ks C^pnhl dU 04 U 04 - 3 Acrdate' fCW-C3Q WsylAer^ W -1 ïriêthàBC^âîasûe Ô4.1 - î Acids dmq^e 441 -1 Scsdiuei citrate 441 - 2 Sike 1 » W Pedite W ■ 2 H As»? 1 5 - W Ethylvanillin 0.01 to -9.85 such as 0.025 Preparation of the composition
[0374] The compounds are mixed together in the quantities defined in g per 100 g in Table 3 above, under stirring. The mixing can be done in a container at a temperature between room temperature or by heating (preferably between 20°C and 80°C) under stirring. Results
[0375] The composition according to the invention has a pleasant odor. This phenomenon is observed after 3 years of storage of the composition at room temperature. Example 3
[0376] Composition 3, according to the invention, is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 4 below.
[0377] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0378] [Tables4] Fvnstde 3 7-B Ew qtp 105 OH - l 1 - W 9.91 -1 9.01 - 1 HemssaW 1-10 QctowUms 1 - w Elàytecyl Sslkvlste 1 -5 CU - 1 Ethylbæd LU - 1 Etw 1-5 C12C2 CcpUwer ai - i SwareâvSO 0 1 -1 Cçæs Skiva Wsx / Qsjss Safca Gers ao -1 Zw (wd) Cl 2-15 Àlkyl (asd) Tms«W& 5- 15 Cdbte ai o Hvdïom?e$hU 7 Sedism Tamak 9.01-3 9.51. - 1 Where 3 Cime Aeid 01-2 Ethylvasiliae û.GÎ and 0.05 such that 0.025 Preparation of the composition
[0379] The compounds are mixed together in the quantities defined in g per 100 g in Table 4 above, under stirring. The mixing can be carried out in a container at a temperature between ambient temperature or by heating (preferably between 20 °C and 80 °C) under stirring. Results
[0380] The composition according to the invention has a pleasant odor. This phenomenon is observed after 3 years of storage of the composition at room temperature.
Claims
Demands
1. Use i) of one or more compounds of formula (I) as defined below and their optical isomers, their organic or mineral base salts, or one of their solvates '""A__Z1 ... / 4 / y \ formula (I) in which: • R i represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group; • R 2 represents an i) hydrogen atom, or a group selected from ii) (Ci-C6)alkyl, and iii) (Ci-C6)alkoxy; • R 3, R 4 and R 5, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from a) hydroxy, b) amino, c) (Ci-C4)alkyl, and d) (Ci-C4)alkoxy; to inhibit and / or attenuate and / or mask the odor ii) of one or more organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s).
2. Use according to the preceding claim wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are such that taken together or separately: • R i represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably ethyl; • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom; and • R 3, R 4 and R 5 represent a hydrogen atom.
3. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein in formula (I) is / are of formula (II) together with their organic or mineral base salts, or one of their solvates such as hydrates: formula (II) wherein: R i, and R 2 are as defined in the preceding claims, preferably R i represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as ethyl and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group such as ethoxy, more preferably R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, more preferably the compound(s) of formula (I), or (II) is / are selected from the (Ci-C4)alkylvanillin such as ethylvanillin.
4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein ii) the organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) is / are selected from hydrophobic organic UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein ii) the organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) is / are selected from the following UV-A and / or UV-B filters: 1) para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, 2) cinnamic derivatives, 3) dibenzoylmethane derivatives, 4) salicylic derivatives, 5) 3,3-diphenylacrylate and 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, 6) benzophenone derivatives, 7) benzylidene camphor derivatives, 8) phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, 9) triazine derivatives, 10) anthranilic derivatives, 11) imidazoline derivatives, 12) benzalmalonate derivatives, 13) merocyanine derivatives, 14) cyano derivatives, and their mixtures.
6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein ii) the organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) is / are selected from UV-A and / or UV-B filters selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, triazine derivatives and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, and preferably selected from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising: i. one or more compound(s) of formula (I) or (II), as defined according to any one of the preceding claims; ii. one or more organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 4 to 6, and iii.optionally one or more inorganic UV filter(s), it being understood that: - the total quantity of compound(s) of formula (I) or (II) as defined above is less than or equal to 1%, more preferably less than or equal to 0.5% and more particularly less than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - when the quantity of compound(s) (I) or (II) is between 0.0001% and 0.0003% then the composition cannot include 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate in an amount between 7% and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - when the composition includes ethanol, the amount is not greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) or (II) as defined above is / are in an amount between 0.001% and 0.5%, more particularly between 0.01% and 0.08% and 0.02% and 0.05% such that 0.025% + / - 0.002% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8 wherein the mass ratio of the total quantity of ii) organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) and iii) optionally inorganic UV filter(s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 4 to 6 to the quantity of compound(s) of formula (I), or (II), as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, [also noted (ii+iii) / (i)] is greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 100, more preferably greater than 400, still more preferably greater than or equal to 500.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9 wherein the mass ratio (ii+iii) / (i) is between 2 and 2000, particularly between 10 and 1000, more particularly between 50 and 800.
11. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 10, does not include iii) inorganic UV filter(s).
12. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 11, wherein the weight amount of ii) organic UV-A and / or UV-B filter(s) is / are in weight amounts less than or equal to 30%, particularly less than or equal to 20%, more particularly less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 12, wherein ii) the organic UV filter(s) is / are in a content of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.03% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 0.04% to 5% by weight, and better 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 13, wherein the total weight amount of ii) organic UV filter(s) + iii) inorganic UV filter(s) is / are in a weight amount of less than 5%, more particularly less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably the total weight amount of ii) inorganic UV filter(s) + iii) inorganic UV filter(s) is / are in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.04% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Cosmetic process for perfumer and / or care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 7 to 14.
16. Cosmetic process for protecting keratinous materials against UV-A and / or UV-B, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 7 to 14.
Citation Information
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