COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one C-glycoside, b) at least one extract of Punica granatum, and c) at least one extract of Gentiana lutea. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a keratinous material care composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. RELATED ART

[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the body's interior against physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as that caused by bacteria, viruses, or fungi). Human skin consists of two compartments: a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

[0003] The epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells which are keratinocytes (major part), melanocytes and Langerhans cells, which have an essential function in the immune response and in particular in the presentation of the antigen.

[0004] The dermis provides strong support to the epidermis. It also provides it with nutrients. It is composed mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix.

[0005] The skin, which suffers damage related to additional aggression and skin aging, must repair itself biologically, from DNA to proteins.

[0006] It is known that skin lipids (such as glycerolipids) are beneficial for skin repair and skin barrier function.

[0007] The development of formulas dedicated to skin care, such as for anti-aging, is ongoing.

[0008] A wide variety of cosmetic compositions have been used for skin care, for example, to provide a repairing and anti-aging effect on the skin. However, for most of them, the effect on skin care, particularly in terms of repairing and anti-aging effects, is not satisfactory.

[0009] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a skincare composition of keratinous materials, which can deliver a repairing and / or anti-aging effect. Summary of the invention

[0010] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop skincare compositions of keratinous materials, which can deliver a repairing and / or anti-aging effect.

[0011] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials.

[0012] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one C-glycoside, b. at least one extract of Punica granatum, and c. at least one extract of Gentiana lutea.

[0013] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0014] The composition of the present invention can provide a repairing and / or anti-aging effect to keratinous materials.

[0015] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will emerge in part from the description, or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0017] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0018] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically cited features as well as any optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically cited features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0020] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described These are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, can be changed according to the desired objective.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin, including facial skin and lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0022] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0023] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one C-glycoside, b. at least one extract of Punica granatum, and c. at least one extract of Gentiana lutea. C-glycosides

[0024] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0025] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from compounds of formula (I): XR (I) S-— /

[0026] in which:

[0027] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in the C1 to C10 position, in particular in the C1 to C4 position, which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical,

[0028] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, in particular up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and

[0029] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0030] the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0031] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in Ci-C6, in particular in CrC4, preferably in CrC2 and more preferably, a methyl radical.

[0032] In particular, alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention include methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0033] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.

[0034] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

[0035] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0036] More particularly, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0037] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:

[0038] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the Ci-C4 form, in particular in the linear unsubstituted Ci-C2 form, including a methyl radical;

[0039] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0040] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0041] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of acids Inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid are examples. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

[0042] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0043] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0044] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0045] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0046] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds that are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:

[0047] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0048] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0049] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0050] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0051] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0052] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0053] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0054] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0055] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0056] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0057] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0058] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0059] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0060] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0061] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0062] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0063] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0064] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0065] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0066] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0067] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0068] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0069] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0070] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the composition according to the invention.

[0072] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol).

[0073] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extracts of Punica granatum

[0074] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of Punica granatum.

[0075] As used herein, an extract of Punica granatum, also called Punica granatum extract, may be an extract comprising, optionally consisting essentially of, a substance of the fruiting plant species Punica granatum. The Punica granatum extract is not particularly limited to, and may comprise or be any extract or combination of extracts of Punica granatum suitable for use in the embodiments herein.

[0076] It has been reported that Punica granatum contains various bioactive components, including various phytochemicals. Punica granatum can simply be called pomegranate.

[0077] In general, the most abundant phytochemicals in pomegranate juice are polyphenols, including hydrolyzable tannins called ellagitannins These compounds are formed when ellagic acid and gallic acid bind to a carbohydrate to form pomegranate ellagitannins, also known as punicalagins. The red color of the juice is attributed to anthocyanins, such as delphinidin, cyanidin, and pelargonidin glycosides. Generally, increased pigmentation of the juice occurs during fruit ripening. Pomegranate peel contains high amounts of polyphenols, condensed tannins, catechins, and prodelphinidins. Pomegranate seed oil contains punicic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid.

[0078] Specific examples of extracts of Punica granatum are known in the art. As such, extract of Punica granatum can be purchased or otherwise commercially obtained from various sources, prepared (for example, using any conventional extraction technique known in the art), or combinations thereof.

[0079] In some embodiments, the extract of Punica granatum is obtained by water extraction (or aqueous extraction) of plant material of Punica granatum.

[0080] In other embodiments, the extract of Punica granatum is obtained by alcohol extraction (for example, ethanol extraction) of plant material of Punica granatum.

[0081] As a person skilled in the art will understand, Punica granatum is primarily cultivated for its fruit. Thus, in various embodiments, Punica granatum extract is an extract of Punica granatum fruit. Suitable extractions include those noted above, for example, water and ethanol extractions of the fruit. The fruit may be from one or more plants and may be fresh, dried, or otherwise ripened.

[0082] The extract of Punica granatum may comprise material from any part of the plant, or combinations thereof, and is not limited to fruit extracts. For example, the extract of Punica granatum may comprise material extracted from one or more parts of a Punica granatum plant, including its root, stem, bark, rhizome, leaf, bud, flower, seed, and / or fruit. Furthermore, such extracts may be further processed (e.g., defatted, partially defatted, ground, dried, precipitated, washed, filtered, sieved, extracted, distilled, concentrated, etc.) to obtain the extract of Punica granatum. Similarly, the Punica granatum plant can be extracted in raw form or processed before extraction of the Punica granatum extract (e.g., used in raw form, in suspension, in dehydrated form, concentrated, etc.).

[0083] By way of example, certain extracts can be obtained when Punica granatum (for example, fruit) is pulverized to a uniform size in a mill. Then, the resulting powder is extracted using a solution of water or ethanol. The solution The mixture is then filtered, and the filtrate can be concentrated under reduced pressure to produce a syrup. The syrup can then be freeze-dried to dryness to obtain an extract.

[0084] The extract of Punica granatum can be used in any form, such as pure (i.e., without solvents, carrier vehicles, diluents, etc.), or disposed of in a carrier vehicle, such as a solvent or a dispersant. The carrier vehicle, if applicable, may include an aqueous solvent (e.g., water), an organic solvent, a fluid or oil, or the like, or combinations thereof. When used, the carrier vehicle will be selected based on the particular extract of Punica granatum used.

[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a Punica granatum fruit extract, i.e. a Punica granatum extract comprising materials obtained (i.e. extracted) from Punica granatum fruit.

[0086] More preferably, the extract of Punica granatum is an extract of the fruit of Punica granatum.

[0087] As an example of commercial products of Punica granatum fruit extract, one can cite that supplied by the company ALBAN MULLER under the name AMIPORINE ER.

[0088] Advantageously, the extract of Punica granatum is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.002% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.003% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.004% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extracts of Gentiana lutea

[0089] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of Gentiana lutea.

[0090] Preferably, the extract of Gentiana lutea is obtained from roots, leaves and / or stems of Gentiana lutea.

[0091] In the context of the present invention, the extract of Gentiana lutea is manufactured by extraction of parts, in particular of roots, leaves and / or stems of Gentiana lutea by means of organic solvents, in particular polar solvents, preferably alcohols, particularly preferably ethanol, in particular mixtures of ethanol with water, preferably 50% (vol.) ethanol; or by means of supercritical CO2, in which the extract is obtained in a temperature range of 31°C to 90°C and a pressure range of 75 to 500 bar, and the separation takes place in a temperature range of 10°C to 50°C and a pressure range of 1 bar to 74 bar.

[0092] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an extract of Gentiana lutea.

[0093] As an example of commercial products of extract of Gentiana lutea root, we can cite that supplied by the company GREENTECH under the name ORGANIC MYRALYS.

[0094] Advantageously, the extract of Gentiana lutea is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.002% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.003% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.004% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] The inventors discovered that with the combination of at least one C-glycoside, at least one extract of Punica granatum and at least one extract of Gentiana lutea, a synergistic repairing and anti-aging effect on keratinous materials, such as skin, was obtained.

[0096] Advantageously, the weight ratio C-glycoside: extract of Punica granatum: extract of Gentiana lutea is 100:0.001-10:0.001-10, preferably 100:0.01-2:0.01-2, more preferably 100:0.05-0.5:0.05-0.5. Aqueous phase

[0097] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.

[0098] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water.

[0099] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 45% by weight to 97% by weight, more preferably from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature at 25 °C) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 55% by weight to 97% by weight, more preferably from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0102] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active ingredients as defined above.

[0103] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0104] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0106] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1% by weight to 20% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b. from 0.004% by weight to 3% by weight of a Punica fruit extract granatum; and c. from 0.004% by weight to 3% by weight of Gentiana lutea seed extract.

[0107] According to a more preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0108] a) from 2% by weight to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

[0109] b) from 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight of Punica granatum fruit extract; and

[0110] c) from 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight of Gentiana lutea seed extract. pharmaceutical form and process

[0111] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion (O / W or O / W), or other liquid formats, for example, toners, serums, lotions, creams, masks, sprays.

[0112] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials, such as skin. In particular, the composition of the present invention can provide benefits to the skin, for example, repairing the skin and / or providing an anti-aging effect.

[0113] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES

[0114] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0115] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0116] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) MEXORYL SDL NOVEAL Punica granatum fruit extract (Punica granatum fruit extract) AMIPORINE ER ALBAN MULLER Gentiana lutea root extract (Gentiana lutea root extract) ORGANIC MYRAL YS (010026) GREENTECH [Inventive Example#! and Comparative Examples#!-!]

[0117] Compositions of the example of the invention (El) 1 and comparative examples (EC) 1 and 2 were prepared on the basis of the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantities are given as a percentage by weight of each component relative to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active material.

[0118] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 10.5 (MA) 10.5 (MA) 0 Punica granatum fruit extract 0.016 (MA) 0.016 (MA) 0 Gentiana lutea root extract 0.015 (MA) 0 0.015 (MA) Water QS100 QS100 QS100

[0119] The composition of inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.

[0120] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one extract of Gentiana lutea.

[0121] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not include a C-glycoside and at least one extract of Punica granatum.

[0122] Preparation process:

[0123] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: addition of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, Punica granatum fruit extract and Gentiana lutea root extract according to the corresponding amounts in Table 2 slowly in water with stirring at room temperature to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Assessment

[0124] The restorative effect provided by the above-prepared composition was evaluated using the Proteome study as follows.

[0125] 1. Cell inoculation

[0126] Fibroblast cells in logarithmic growth phase were collected, the cells were inoculated into a 24-well plate at 3.2 x 104 per well, and incubated overnight in a CO2 incubator (37 °C, 5% CO2).

[0127] 2. Drug administration

[0128] Each of the above-prepared compositions was diluted 96-fold with water. When the cell plating rate in the 24-well plate reached 40%–60%, administration was performed in batches. To a blank control group, 2 mL of low-sugar DMEM culture medium containing 2% serum was added per well, and to each sample group, 2 mL of sample working medium was added per well. After administration, the 24-well plate was placed in a CO2 incubator (37°C, 5% CO2) and incubated for 24 hours. After incubation, 1 mL of PBS was added to each well for 3 washes, each lasting 3 minutes. After washing, digestion with a 0.25% trypsin digestion solution was performed in the incubator for 3 minutes, then 1 mL of low-sugar DMEM culture medium was added to each well.The cell suspension was collected in a 10 mL centrifuge tube, centrifuged, the supernatant was discarded, and protein extraction was performed.

[0129] 3. Protein extraction 1. An appropriate amount of IXCocktail (protease inhibitor) without SDS protein lysate and with 0.2 M EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) was added; 2. Grinding and lysis were carried out using an ultrasonic instrument, then centrifugation was carried out at 25000 g * 4 °C for 15 minutes, and the supernatant was collected; 3. DTT (dithiothreitol) with a final concentration of 10 mM was added to the supernatant under a water bath at 37 °C for 30 minutes; 4. IAM (iodoacetamide) with a final concentration of 55 mM was added to the supernatant and then placed in a dark room for 45 minutes; 5. A pre-cooled volume of 5 times was added to the supernatant, refrigerated overnight at -20 °C, centrifuged at 25000 g * 4 °C for 15 minutes, and the supernatant was discarded; 6. Air drying and precipitation were carried out, SDS-free protein lysate was added and an automated mill was used to promote protein dissolution; 7. Centrifugation was carried out at 25,000 g at 4 °C for 15 minutes to obtain the supernatant, which is a protein solution.

[0130] 4. Quality control and proteomic testing

[0131] Quality control: 1. SDS-PAGE

[0132] 10 qg of protein solution from each sample were taken and mixed The samples were loaded with a loading buffer, then heated to 95 °C for 5 minutes, and centrifuged at 25,000 g for 5 minutes. The supernatant was collected and loaded into the wells of a 12% SDS-polyacrylamide gel. Electrophoresis was performed at a constant voltage of 80 V for 30 minutes, followed by 120 V for 120 minutes. After electrophoresis, the gel was placed in a rapid staining unit for 10 minutes, then removed, and the gel image was scanned. 1. Bradford Quantitative Titration

[0133] In a 96-well microplate, a standard protein (0.2 qg / qL of BSA) was added in the following volumes to wells A1 to A10: 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 qL. Then, pure water was added in the following volumes to each well: 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 qL. Subsequently, 180 qL of Coomassie Brilliant Blue G-250 quantitative working solution were added to each well. The OD595 was measured using a microplate reader, and a linear standard curve was prepared based on the OD595 and the protein concentration. The protein solution under test was diluted several times; 180 qL of the quantitative working solution were added to 20 qL of the protein solution, and the OD595 was read. The protein concentration of the sample was calculated based on the standard curve and the OD595 of the sample.

[0134] Proteomics assays: 1. Protein Digestion

[0135] Trypsin was used to digest the protein sample, and then the resulting peptides were desalted using Strata X columns, followed by vacuum drying. 1. High pH RP Separation

[0136] Equal amounts of peptides from all samples were mixed and diluted with mobile phase A (5% ACN (acetonitrile), pH 9.8), and liquid-phase separation was performed on the samples using a Shimadzu LC-20AD liquid chromatography system under the following conditions: gradient elution with 1 mL / mol, 5% mobile phase B (95% ACN, pH 9.8) for 10 min, 5%–35% mobile phase B for 40 min, 35%–95% mobile phase B for 1 min, mobile phase B for 3 min, and 5% mobile phase B for 10 min. Elution peaks at a wavelength of 214 nm were monitored, and a fraction was collected per minute. The fractions were combined based on the chromatographic elution peak map to obtain ten fractions, then lyophilized. 1. Construction of DDA libraries and quantitative DIA detection (Nano-LC-MS / MS)

[0137] After the dried peptide samples were redissolved and centrifuged to collect the supernatant, they were separated using a Thermo Scientific Ultimate 3000 UHPLC. The liquid chromatograph was connected directly to the mass spectrometer for detection as follows:

[0138] Construction and detection of DDA library

[0139] The peptides separated by liquid chromatography were ionized via a nanoESI source and then introduced into an Orbitrap Exploris 480 tandem mass spectrometer (Thermo Fisher Scientific, San Jose, CA) for detection in DDA mode ("Data Dependent Acquisition").

[0140] Quantitative DIA detection

[0141] The peptides separated by liquid chromatography were ionized via a nanoESI source and then introduced into the Orbitrap Exploris 480 tandem mass spectrometer (Thermo Fisher Scientific, San Jose, CA) for detection in DIA ("Data Independent Acquisition") mode.

[0142] Based on the proteome study as described above, the growth rates of PLPP1 (a biomarker that regulates lipid metabolism) of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1-2 were obtained and are listed in Table 3.

[0143] [Tables3] Properties EL 1 EC. 1 EC.2 Rate of increase (%) 188.1 98.6 70.7 Value P 0.0427 0.0461 0.1269

[0144] (P-value < 0.05: significant)

[0145] It can be concluded from Table 3 that the composition of the present invention can be used for potential skin repair.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one C-glycoside, b) at least one extract of Punica granatum, and c) at least one extract of Gentiana lutea.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): XR(I)S® in which: - R represents a saturated C1-C1 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C4, which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR2, R2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, wherein said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-,-CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3], as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the extract of Punica granatum comprises materials extracted from one or more parts of a Punica granatum plant, including the root, stem, bark, rhizome, leaf, bud, flower, seed and / or fruit thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the extract of Punica granatum is present in an amount from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.002% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.003% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.004% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the extract of Gentiana lutea is obtained from roots, leaves and / or stems of Gentiana lutea, preferably the composition comprises root extract of Gentiana lutea.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the extract of Gentiana lutea is present in an amount from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.002% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.003% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.004% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.005% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 2% to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b) 0.005% to 1% by weight of Punica granatum fruit extract; and c) 0.005% to 1% by weight of Gentiana lutea seed extract.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio C-glycoside:Punica granatum extract:Gentiana lutea extract is 100:0.001-10:0.001-10, preferably 100:0.01-2:0.01-2, more preferably 100:0.05-0.5:0.05-0.

5.

10. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.