Composition comprising an extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom, a monosaccharide, a GHK tripeptide and a GQPR tetrapeptide

Abstract

Composition comprising an extract of the mushroom Grifola frondosa, a monosaccharide, a GHK tripeptide and a GQPR tetrapeptide. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one extract of Grifola frondosa; (ii) at least one monosaccharide; (iii) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide; and (iv) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention, or its use to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising an extract of the mushroom Grifola frondosa, a monosaccharide, a GHK tripeptide and a GQPR tetrapeptide technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of keratinous material care, in particular skin care.

[0002] In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of the mushroom Grifola frondosa, at least one monosaccharide, at least one tripeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, and at least one tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1.

[0003] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention, or its use to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging. Previous technique

[0004] Human skin consists of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.

[0005] The dermis is primarily composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). This extracellular matrix consists of various macromolecules responsible for the skin's mechanical resistance, suppleness, tone, and elasticity, as well as physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation, and regulation of skin permeability). These macromolecules include, in particular, collagen, elastin, and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).

[0006] Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin, representing approximately 75-80% of its dry mass (Tzaphlidou M. The role of collagen and elastin in aged skin: an image processing approach. Micron. 2004;35(3): 173-7). This means that when water is removed from the equation, the vast majority of the skin's residual composition is collagen. A major constituent of connective tissue, collagen is essential for maintaining the skin's structure and mechanical properties.

[0007] There are several types of collagen in the skin, which can be divided into four main families: fibrillar collagens (Collagens I and III), the most abundant; initiator collagens, such as collagen V, which influence the properties mechanics of the fiber, FACIT collagens which structure the network and finally anchoring collagens such as collagens IV and VII.

[0008] With age, the amount of collagen in the skin decreases in response to a reduction in its natural production, particularly of type I and III collagens (Fligiel SE, Varani J, Datta SC, Kang S, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. Collagen degradation in aged / photodamaged skin in vivo and after exposure to matrix metalloproteinase-1 in vitro. J Invest Dermatol. 2003 May; 120(5):842-8), and in response to an increase in enzymes involved in collagen degradation such as MMP-1 (Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, Phan SH, Kang S, Chung JH, Wang ZQ, Datta SC, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Mar; 114(3):480-6). The area occupied by collagen is therefore significantly reduced with age, both in the papillary and reticular dermis.Changes in the thickness and orientation of collagen bundles are also observed (Marcos-Garcés V, Molina Aguilar P, Bea Serrano C, Garcia Bustos V, Benavent Segui J, Ferrândez Izquierdo A, Ruiz-Sauri A. Age-related dermal collagen changes during development, maturation and aging - a morphometric and comparative study. J Anat. 2014 Jul;225(l):98-108). This loss of collagen, which alters the structural properties of the collagen network, has a major impact on the appearance and structure of the skin and is responsible for a loss of firmness and elasticity as well as the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines (Bâtisse D, Bazin R, Baldeweck T, Querleux B, Lévêque JL. Influence of age on the wrinkling capacities of skin. Skin Res Technol. 2002 Aug;8(3): 148-54, Lynch B, Pageon H, Le Blay H, Brizion S, Bastien P, Bomschlôgl T, Domanov Y.A mechanistic view on the aging human skin through ex vivo layer-by-layer analysis of mechanics and micro structure of facial and mammary dermis. SciRep. 2022 Jan 17;12(1):849). .

[0009] A wide variety of cosmetic products have been used to care for the skin, for example, to resist skin aging by stimulating collagen production. However, some cosmetic products on the market are not satisfactory in combating skin aging.

[0010] Thus, it is always necessary to formulate a composition to take care of the skin, which can effectively combat skin aging. Description of the invention

[0011] The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problem.

[0012] Indeed, the inventors have now discovered that the combination of an extract of the mushroom Grifola frondosa, rhamnose, and a tripeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His- Lys, and the tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, strongly stimulates the expression of collagen III, thus confirming its efficacy for the prevention and / or treatment of skin aging. This effect being significantly greater than that observed with each of the raw materials alone or the sum of the effects of each raw material alone, these results demonstrate, in particular, a synergistic activity between the Grifola frondosa mushroom extract, rhamnose, the tripeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, and the tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Summary of the invention

[0013] As mentioned above, the present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one extract of the Grifola frondosa mushroom; (ii) at least one monosaccharide;

[0014] (iii) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide; and

[0015] (iv) at least one tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1.

[0016] As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that a composition according to the invention, comprising an extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom, rhamnose, an N-Pahnitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide, and an N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide, allows strong stimulation of collagen III expression, advantageously enabling the prevention and / or treatment of signs of skin aging.

[0017] Thus, the present invention also relates to the implementation of a composition of the invention to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging in an individual in need.

[0018] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention, to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0019] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical, of a composition according to the invention to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0020] According to another aspect of it, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical, of a composition according to the invention as an anti-aging composition. Detailed description

[0021] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with keratinous materials, in particular skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0022] By "keratinous materials", we mean in particular the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and hair appendages.

[0023] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0024] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant color, odor, and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, such as tingling, tightness, or redness, likely to deter the user from applying the composition. Naturally, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the physiologically acceptable medium is chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties of the combination according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered.

[0025] Thus, by way of illustration, a physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water and / or one or more organic solvent(s) miscible in water. A physiologically acceptable medium according to the invention preferably has a pH between 4 and 8, more particularly between 4.5 and 7.5. Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more pH adjuster(s).

[0026] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to refer to the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0027] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" refer to the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0028] By "cutaneous signs of aging", we mean all changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether of chronological and / or photo-induced origin.

[0029] By way of example of these modifications considered in the invention, we can cite a less homogeneous and less smooth surface, a thinned epidermis, wrinkles and fine lines, withered skin, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen fibers, which leads to the appearance of soft and wrinkled skin.

[0030] Preferably, the cutaneous signs of aging referred to in the invention are chosen from thinning of the skin, loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, loss of density, or loss of skin tone, alteration of the surface appearance of the skin, appearance of marked microrelief of the skin, appearance of roughness, formation and / or presence of fine lines and / or wrinkles, alteration of the radiance of the skin tone, papery appearance of the skin, sagging of the skin, or withering of the skin.

[0031] More preferably, the cutaneous signs of aging targeted by the invention are chosen from among a loss of firmness, a loss of elasticity, a loss of skin tone, an alteration of the surface appearance of the skin, an appearance of a marked microrelief of the skin, an appearance of roughness, a formation and / or presence of fine lines and / or wrinkles, an alteration of the radiance of the skin tone, a papery appearance of the skin, a withering of the skin.

[0032] Even more preferably, the cutaneous signs of aging targeted by the invention are chosen from among an alteration of the surface appearance of the skin, an appearance of a marked microrelief of the skin, an appearance of roughness, a formation and / or presence of fine lines and / or wrinkles, an alteration of the radiance of the skin tone. Grifola frondosa mushroom extract

[0033] The term "Grifola frondosa mushroom extract" means both an extract of whole Grifola frondosa mushroom(s) and their constituents selected from the fruiting body, the stem, or the mycelium and mixtures thereof. Fruiting bodies are particularly preferred for extracting the mushroom for the purposes of the invention.

[0034] An extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom, also known as maitake, and its preparation process are as described in application WO 2002 / 02129.

[0035] The extracts to be used according to the invention are obtained from higher fungi of the genus Basidomycete, in particular extracts of the fungus Grifola frondosa, also known as Maitake. This fungus is a so-called carrier fungus, also called a basal fungus. These fungi offer a significant advantage because they can be cultivated in large quantities. Availability is very high and independent of the seasons.

[0036] The extracts to be used according to the invention are prepared by conventional extraction processes. With regard to suitable conventional extraction processes such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, maceration by stirring, vortex extraction, ultrasonic extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation, and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux, which is carried out in an extractor Soxhiet, which are known to those skilled in the art and can in principle all be used, can be found, for example, in Hagers's Manual of Pharmaceutical Practice (5th edition, vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York 1991). As raw material, fresh or dried mushrooms or fungal constituents may be used, preferably dried mushrooms or fungal constituents, but generally, the raw material consists of mushrooms or fungal constituents that are mechanically ground before extraction. For this purpose, all grinding methods known to those skilled in the art are suitable, for example, grinding in a mortar.

[0037] Preferred solvents for extractions include water, organic solvents, or mixtures of organic solvents and water, particularly low molecular weight alcohols, hydrocarbons, ketones, esters, or halogenated hydrocarbons with varying water contents (distilled or undistilled), preferably aqueous or alcoholic solutions at a temperature of 20°C or higher. Extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane, and mixtures thereof is particularly preferred. Extraction with water, ethanol, and mixtures thereof is even more preferred.

[0038] Extraction is generally carried out at a temperature of 20 to 100°C, preferably 20 to 85°C, in particular either at the boiling point of the solvent used or at ambient temperature. In one possible embodiment, extraction is carried out under an inert gas atmosphere to prevent oxidation of the extract constituents. Extraction times are adjusted by those skilled in the art according to the raw material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the solvent / raw material ratio, etc. After extraction, the crude extracts obtained can be subjected to other standard steps, such as purification, concentration, and / or decolorization. The extracts thus prepared can be subjected, for example, to selective separation of individual undesirable components. Extraction can be carried out to any desired degree of extraction, but is generally performed until exhaustion.Typical yields (= quantity of dry matter of the extract relative to the quantity of raw material used) when extracting dried mushrooms or dried fungal constituents, possibly defatted, are in the range of 1.5 to 25, specifically from 1.9 to 20.3% by weight. The extracts can then be subjected, for example, to spray drying or freeze-drying.

[0039] Preferably, the extract used in the present invention is marketed under the name ETERNISKIN LS 9881® by BASF. According to a method of embodiment, the extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom is in powder form in which the quantity of the extract is 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder, the remainder being maltodextrin.

[0040] An extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom as described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight of active material, and more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, for example about 0.01% or 0.02% or 0.05% or 0.25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Monosaccharides

[0041] The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more monosaccharides.

[0042] For the purposes of this application, "monosaccharides" means a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 3 carbon atoms, preferably at least 5 carbon atoms, of formula CX(H2O)X, with x an integer greater than or equal to 3, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably x greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and solvates such as hydrates.

[0043] Preferably, the monosaccharide(s) are chosen from mannose, rhamnose and their a or [3] anomers, their L or D configuration optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.

[0044] More preferably, the monosaccharide(s) are chosen from mannose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof; even better rhamnose.

[0045] Mannose is a monosaccharide (non-hydrolyzable simple sugar) composed of 6 carbon atoms; it is a hexose. Its empirical formula is C6Hi2O6, the same as that of glucose, of which it is the C2 epimer (that is, its spatial configuration is exactly the same as that of glucose, except for the substituent on carbon 2, where it is inverted compared to glucose). Mannose corresponds to the following formula (I), which also includes its enantiomers:

[0046] [Chem 1]

[0047] Mannose can also be in solvated form (including hydrates) and as a mixture of D and L stereoisomers, called DL-mannose.

[0048] Preferably, the monosaccharide is D-mannose of formula (II) below.

[0049] [Chem.2] (II)

[0050] D-mannose is naturally present in plants, particularly in certain fruits, including cranberries, or in hardwoods, such as beech and birch.

[0051] As an example of D-mannose suitable for the invention, one can notably cite the D-mannose marketed by the company DANISCO.

[0052] Rhamnose (or 6-deoxymannose) formally constitutes the deoxygenation product of mannose at C6. Rhamnose is found in nature in the L form.

[0053] L-rhamnose is marketed, for example, by the company DANISCO.

[0054] Preferably, the monosaccharide is chosen from rhamnose, as well as its α or γ anomers, its L or D optical isomers, its solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the monosaccharide is L-rhamnose.

[0055] Said monosaccharide may be present in the composition of the invention, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys

[0056] The composition of the present invention comprises N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys.

[0057] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys has the amino acid sequence glycine-histidine-lysine (GHK). Its chemical name is N-(l-oxohexadecyl)glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, its INCI name is Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, and its structure is as follows:

[0058] [Chem.3]

[0059] This is a matrikine signal peptide, which acts on the dermis to promote the synthesis of extracellular matrix such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans, strengthen the dermis, and make the skin thicker, firmer, and wrinkled, soothed and more resistant to UV exposure.

[0060] Its synthesis can be found in CN108218956A and CN114891063B.

[0061] N-Pahnitoyl-Gly-His-Lys is notably marketed under the name MATRIXYL 3000 by the company SEDERMA.

[0062] Advantageously, N-Pahnitoyl-Gly-His-Lys is present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0002 to 200 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.001 ppm to 100 ppm, more preferably from 0.005 ppm to 50 ppm, even better from 0.01 ppm to 10 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition. N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg

[0063] The composition of the present invention comprises N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1.

[0064] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, known by its INCI name palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, has the amino acid sequence glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine (GQPR). Its chemical name is N-(l-oxohexadecyl)glycyl-L-glutaminyl-L-prolyl-L-arginine. N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg has the following structure:

[0065] [Chem.4]

[0066] N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg is an active fragment of IgG immunoglobulins, which can significantly reduce the level of the inflammatory factor IL-6 in the cellular inflammation process, particularly in cells damaged by UV, and can reduce the deepening of skin wrinkles caused by inflammation and restore skin vitality.

[0067] Its synthesis can be found in CN112830956B.

[0068] N-Pahnitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg is notably marketed under the name MATRIXYL 3000 by the company SEDERMA.

[0069] Advantageously, N-Pahnitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1 is present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 ppm to 100 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.0005 ppm to 50 ppm, more preferably from 0.001 ppm to 25 ppm, even better from 0.005 ppm to 5 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition. Physiologically acceptable environment

[0070] In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0071] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention on keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0072] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0073] The physiologically acceptable medium may include water and optionally one or more solvent(s) miscible with water.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, even better from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] A suitable water for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, and / or a thermal water such as VICHY water or LA ROCHE POSAY water.

[0077] Among the water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature, 20-25°C) are alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, ether monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl propylene glycol, and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol, and glycerin.

[0078] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one fatty substance such as one or more oil(s).

[0080] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fats, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight of fats, preferably oil(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0081] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0082] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin; - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils with formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0083] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin;

[0084] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms;

[0085] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils;

[0086] - silicone oils;

[0087] - their mixtures.

[0088] The term hydrocarbon oil in the list of oils cited above means any oil consisting mainly of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the context of the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W). The proportion of fatty substances in the emulsion can range from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The composition may include at least one emulsifier. Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures. and possibly a co-emulsifier. Emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or W / O).

[0091] The emulsifier and co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0092] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also further include any additive commonly used in the field concerned, for example selected from gums, resins, dispersing agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV protectants, cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] It is part of the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that the cosmetic properties and the desired stability properties of the latter are not affected.

[0094] The additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] A composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0096] It may be in the form of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, possibly a gel, a lotion-type dispersion, possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, particularly using spherules, these spherules being polymeric particles or, preferably, ionic and / or non-ionic lipid vesicles, or even in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste, a flexible rod, or a stick. It may have a solid, pasty, or more or less fluid consistency. It may be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It may also be in solid form, for example, in the form of a stick.

[0097] Thus, the composition may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0098] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an aqueous solution, an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in an oily phase (W / O) or an oily phase in an aqueous phase (W / O), of a liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as milk, or of a consistency Soft, semi-solid or solid of the cream or gel type, or even multiple emulsions (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0099] The composition according to the invention is preferably implemented in the context of a use or process according to the invention, by topical route.

[0100] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic carriers intended for localized application to the skin. Examples of such carriers, which are not limited to a patch, a wipe, a roll-on, and a pen, include but are not limited to patches, wipes, roll-ons, and pens. Uses and processes

[0101] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical, of a composition according to the invention to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0102] According to another aspect of it, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical, of a composition according to the invention as an anti-aging composition.

[0103] According to yet another aspect of it, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0104] Skin may in particular be skin showing signs of skin aging, in particular such as the signs defined above

[0105] Skin can in particular be skin that does not present dermatological or pathological disorders, in other words healthy skin.

[0106] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0107] The cosmetic uses and processes of the invention are preferably implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0108] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0109] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can be, for example, formulated as a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or cleansing milk.

[0110] The application can be repeated, for example, 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 3 days, or less than 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of interruption if necessary.

[0111] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0112] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0113] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." shall be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0114] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" should be understood as synonymous with "one or more" unless otherwise specified.

[0115] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0116] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C), expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure. Figure

[0117] [Fig.1] : Effects of mixture (Palmitoyl Tripetide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7), Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract, Rhamnose and different combinations on collagen III expression in fibroblasts - In situ immunostaining and image analysis. Examples A-Materials and methods

[0118] Fibroblasts were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured for 24 hours in culture medium (DMEM supplemented with 10% S VF). At the end of incubation, the culture medium was replaced with test medium (DMEM supplemented with 2% SVF) containing or not (Control), the positive reference of the test (Vitamin C at 20 pg / ml + TGF-β at 10 ng / ml), or the tested agents alone or in combination. The cells were then incubated for 72 hours. All conditions were performed in n=3.

[0119] At the end of incubation, the media were discarded, the cells were rinsed in PBS, fixed with 4% PFA, and permeabilized with 0.1% Triton X-100. After saturating non-specific antigenic sites with 2% BSA, the cells were incubated with an anti-collagen III antibody. After incubation and washing, the cells were incubated with a fluorochrome-coupled secondary antibody directed against the anti-collagen III antibody, and the nuclei were stained with Hoechst. After incubation and washing, fluorescence microscopy images were acquired (5 images / field), and the signal intensity was normalized to the number of cells identified with the staining. at Hoechst, was measured by image analysis. The results were normalized to the control and a statistical analysis was performed (Student's t-test). B-Results

[0120] The peptide mixture, Palmitoyl Tripetide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, tested at 0.15%, significantly stimulated collagen III expression by fibroblasts (+118% p<0.001, Table 1). To a lesser extent, stimulation was also observed with Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract tested at 0.025% (+58% p<0.01, Table 1). In contrast, no significant effect was observed with Rhamnose tested at 0.25% (+11% ns, Table 1).

[0121] Combining the peptide mixture (Palmitoyl Tripetide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) with Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract or Rhamnose also resulted in stimulation of collagen III expression, but the effects were equivalent to those observed with the peptide mixture tested alone (+131% and +102% respectively, p<0.01, Table 1). These results therefore indicate the absence of an additive or synergistic effect between the two molecules.

[0122] Similarly, when Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract was combined with Rhamnose, stimulation of collagen III expression was also observed, but the effect was equivalent to that observed with Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract tested alone (+40%, p<0.01, Table 1). These results therefore indicate once again the absence of an additive or synergistic effect between the two molecules.

[0123] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, combining the peptide mixture (Palmitoyl Tripetide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) with Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract and Rhamnose resulted in a strong stimulation of collagen III expression (+245%, p < 0.001, Table 1, [Fig. 1]). Since this effect is significantly greater than that observed with the raw materials alone or the sum of the effects of each raw material, these results demonstrate a synergistic activity between Palmitoyl Tripetide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract, and Rhamnose.

[0124] Table 1: Effects of mixture (Palmitoyl Tripetide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7), Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract, Rhamnose and different combinations on collagen III expression in fibroblasts - In situ immunostaining and image analysis. [Tables 1] Treatment Concentratio Coligen expression Bi Statistical analysis Mean T£:r«Kr<< Ecart-type Stimuiatiar AS P l.'S Test 100 20 o Vitamin ç + W 20 pgW + 10 ng / mi 228 S 128-?Trirapepîde-i 'i 218 30 118 Gn'fàlà f / omfos&wi'mÿ body extract 0.005¾ 158 18 38 ** *+>> Hhamnose û 24% 111 :2 11 ns Tripetsde-1 Tetrapeptide-? + Grifola frortâo&tMig body extract 0.15® + 0.025% 231 40 131 TTipetWe-i / Tetrapeptide-7 + Rhamncse $ •t 0.25% 202 15 192 Gn'fola body exiract 0, 2 + ♦%2 140 12 40 Tripetide-1 .Tetraxpide-? + Grifola body extract + RhamnosB 0.15S' + 0 0%% -0 2% 345 12 245 *** * / M.IW ; at <0.01 p < 0.05 ns- not statisticallysignificant

[0125] *tripeptide-l / tetrapeptide-7 were tested in the form of a mixture contained in the raw material marketed under the name MATRIXYL 3000 by the company SEDERMA comprising 0.01% of tripeptide-1 corresponding to the tripeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and 0.005% of tetrapeptide-7 corresponding to the tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg solubilized in a solvent essentially composed of water and glycerin.

[0126] * Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract is an extract of Grifola mushroom frondosa marketed under the name ETERNISKIN LS 9881® by BASF, the extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom is present at 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the raw material, the remainder (50%) being maltodextrin. Sequence listing SEQ ID NO: 1

[0127] GQPR

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, particularly cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom; (ii) at least one monosaccharide; (iii) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys tripeptide; and (iv) at least one N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg tetrapeptide of sequence SEQ ID NO:

1.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said Grifola frondosa mushroom extract is an extract of whole Grifola frondosa mushroom(s) or of their constituents selected from the fruiting body, the stem, or the mycelium and mixtures thereof, preferably said Grifola frondosa mushroom extract is an extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom fruiting body.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom is obtained by extraction of Grifola frondosa mushroom with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof, more preferably with water, ethanol and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract of Grifola frondosa mushroom is present in the composition in a content of 0.001% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight of active material, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said monosaccharide is selected from rhamnose, as well as its a or [3] anomers, its L or D configuration optical isomers, its solvates and mixtures thereof, more preferably the monosaccharide is L-rhamnose.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said monosaccharide is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight. weight, and even better, 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said tripeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys is present in the composition in a content from 0.0002 to 200 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.001 ppm to 100 ppm, more preferably from 0.005 ppm to 50 ppm, even better from 0.01 ppm to 10 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg of sequence SEQ ID NO: 1 is present in the composition in a content from 0.0001 ppm to 100 ppm relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.0005 ppm to 50 ppm, more preferably from 0.001 ppm to 25 ppm, even better from 0.005 ppm to 5 ppm, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular skin, comprising the topical application to these keratinous materials of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 9, to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

10. Cosmetic use, including topical use, of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to prevent and / or treat signs of skin aging.

11. Cosmetic use, including topical use, of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 9 as an anti-aging composition.

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