Stable dispersion composition containing retinoid

Abstract

To provide a composition in the form of a stable dispersion containing at least one retinoid, in which the retinoid is stable under exposure to light and under elevated temperature conditions.SOLUTION: The present invention relates to a dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, the composition containing: (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along a 10 mm optical path length, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9 mass% with respect to the total mass of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than component (b); and (d) at least one cationic polymer.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a stable dispersion composition comprising at least one retinoid, preferably a stable cosmetic dispersion composition comprising at least one retinoid. [Background technology]

[0002] Retinoids are known to be useful, for example, in the field of cosmetics, because they can act as anti-aging active ingredients that can be used for wrinkle treatment, etc. However, they tend to be unstable under some conditions. For example, although retinol is soluble in lipophilic solvents, solutions of retinol can rapidly discolor (yellowing / browning) and retinol in solution can degrade over time.

[0003] To date, several prior art documents have disclosed compositions containing retinoids. For example, WO2021 / 123337 discloses a composition containing at least retinol, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, and ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0004] WO1996 / 018380 also discloses the use of a) one or more compounds from the group of flavonoids or b) a combination of an active substance containing one or more compounds selected from the group of flavonoids and one or more compounds selected from the group of cinnamic acid derivatives, c) optionally with the additional use of one or more compounds from the group of imidazole derivatives, and / or d) optionally with the additional use of one or more compounds from the group of antioxidants or metal chelators or equivalent substances, for stabilizing sensitive and unstable cosmetic or dermatologically active ingredients or components, which may include vitamins A, C or E, or their derivatives.

[0005] WO1996 / 007396 also discloses a skin care composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion and a retinoid selected from the group consisting of vitamin A alcohol, vitamin A aldehyde, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0006] Compositions containing retinoids also have stability issues in that they tend to discolor and become odorous depending on light or temperature conditions, and the retinoids in the composition degrade over time under exposure to light or at elevated temperatures. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] WO2021 / 123337 [Patent Document 2] WO1996 / 018380 [Patent Document 3] WO1996 / 007396 [Patent Document 4] Patent application FR2370377 [Patent Document 5] Patent application EP0199636 [Patent Document 6] Patent application EP0325540 [Patent Document 7] Patent application EP0402072 [Patent Document 8] EP-A-307,626 [Patent Document 9] FR-2,400,358 [Patent Document 10] FR-2,400,359 [Patent Document 11] EP-A-487404 [Patent Document 12] EP-A-425066 [Patent Document 13] Patent Publication No. 05-213736 [Patent Document 14] European Patent Application No. 0080976 [Patent Document 15] French Patent No. 2077143 [Patent Document 16] French Patent No. 2393573 [Patent Document 17] French Patent No. 2162025 [Patent Document 18] French Patent No. 2280361 [Patent Document 19] French Patent No. 2252840 [Patent Document 20] French Patent No. 2368508 [Patent Document 21] French Patent No. 1583363 [Patent Document 22] U.S. Patent No. 3,227,615 [Patent Document 23] U.S. Patent No. 2,961,347 [Patent Document 24] French Patent No. 2080759 [Patent Document 25] Additional Patent No. 2190406 [Patent Document 26] French Patent No. 2320330 [Patent Document 27] French Patent No. 2270846 [Patent Document 28] French Patent No. 2316271 [Patent Document 29] French Patent No. 2336434 [Patent Document 30] French Patent No. 2413907 [Patent Document 31] U.S. Patent No. 2,273,780 [Patent Document 32] U.S. Patent No. 2,375,853 [Patent Document 33] U.S. Patent No. 2,388,614 [Patent Document 34] U.S. Patent No. 2,454,547 [Patent Document 35] U.S. Patent No. 3,206,462 [Patent Document 36] U.S. Patent No. 2,261,002 [Patent Document 37] U.S. Patent No. 2,271,378 [Patent Document 38] U.S. Patent No. 3,874,870 [Patent Document 39] U.S. Patent No. 4,001,432 [Patent Document 40] U.S. Patent No. 3,929,990 [Patent Document 41] U.S. Patent No. 3,966,904 [Patent Document 42] U.S. Patent No. 4,005,193 [Patent Document 43] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,617 [Patent Document 44] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,627 [Patent Document 45] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,653 [Patent Document 46] U.S. Patent No. 4,026,945 [Patent Document 47] U.S. Patent No. 4,027,020 [Patent Document 48] European Patent Application No. 0122324 [Patent Document 49] French Patent No. 1492597 [Patent Document 50] U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576 [Patent Document 51] U.S. Patent No. 3,589,578 [Patent Document 52] U.S. Patent No. 4,031,307 [Patent Document 53] Patent application FR0853634 [Patent Document 54] Patent application EP-A-0955039 [Patent Document 55] Patent application US2004-175338 [Patent Document 56] Patent application FR2908769 [Patent Document 57] Patent application FR2704754 [Patent Document 58] Patent application FR2877004 [Patent Document 59] Patent application FR2854160 [Patent Document 60] Patent application EP0511118 [Patent Document 61] Patent application WO94 / 11338 [Patent Document 62] Patent application FR2698095 [Patent Document 63] Patent application FR2737205 [Patent Document 64] Patent application EP0755925 [Patent Document 65] Patent application FR2825920 [Patent Document 66] EP-A-317542 [Patent Document 67] EP-A-399133 [Patent Document 68] EP-A-516102 [Patent Document 69] EP-A-509382 [Patent Document 70] US-A-5364633 [Patent Document 71] US-A-5411744 [Non-patent literature]

[0008] [Non-Patent Document 1] "The Flavonoids", Harborne JB, Mabry TJ, Helga Mabry, 1975, pp. 1-45 [Non-Patent Document 2] Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984 [Non-Patent Document 3] CM Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol, vol. 39, p. 105 (1967) [Non-Patent Document 4] Article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. [Non-Patent Document 5] Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995) [Non-Patent Document 6] http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition in the form of a stable dispersion comprising at least one retinoid, wherein the retinoid is stable under exposure to light or under elevated temperature conditions. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] The above object of the present invention is to provide a dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than component (b); (d) at least one cationic polymer; This can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0011] (a) The retinoid is present in the dispersed phase.

[0012] The (b) compound, (c) hydrophilic antioxidant, and (d) cationic polymer are present in the continuous phase.

[0013] (a) The retinoid may be retinol.

[0014] The amount of (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0015] The (b) compound may be selected from polyphenols, preferably quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, and mixtures thereof.

[0016] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0017] (c) The hydrophilic antioxidant may be selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbate salts, and combinations thereof.

[0018] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic antioxidant in the composition may be within the range of 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 5% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably 10% by mass to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0019] (d) The cationic polymer may be selected from cationic polysaccharides, preferably non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, more preferably cationic gums, especially cationic galactomannan gums.

[0020] The amount of the (d) cationic polymer in the composition can be within the range of 0.01% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The continuous phase may be an aqueous continuous phase.

[0022] The dispersed phase comprises capsules.

[0023] The amount of the dispersed phase in the composition is within the range of 0.1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 20% by mass, more preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, and even more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0025] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a dispersion composition containing at least one type of retinoid, which has the form of a stable dispersion and is capable of maintaining the retinoid in the composition at a sufficient residual rate even when exposed to light or at high temperatures.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention is a dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than component (b); (d) at least one cationic polymer; The combination of

[0027] The compositions and methods according to the present invention are described in more detail below.

[0028] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention has the form of a stable dispersion having multiple dispersed phases. The expression "stable dispersion" here means that the multiple dispersed phases are stable over time without settling or floating up. The composition according to the present invention can also maintain the retinoid in the composition with sufficient residual ratio even under exposure to light and at high temperature. Dispersion here differs from emulsion in that the dispersed phase of the present invention is not a droplet of oil, water, etc.

[0029] The composition according to the invention can be preferably used as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a leave-on cosmetic composition.The composition according to the invention can be intended for application to keratinous materials, such as the skin, for example the skin of the face, neck or body, lips, scalp and hair.The composition according to the invention has a cosmetic effect on keratinous materials, in particular an anti-aging, whitening and / or anti-wrinkle effect.

[0030] The composition according to the present invention exhibits a stable morphology as a dispersion. In other words, each of the dispersed phases is well dispersed in the composition without settling or floating. In particular, the composition according to the present invention exhibits a stable morphology of dispersion over time even at high temperatures, for example 55°C. In other words, each of the dispersed phases is well dispersed in the composition without settling or floating over time even at high temperatures, for example 55°C.

[0031] The composition according to the present invention can maintain the retinoid (a) in the composition at a sufficient residual rate (e.g., 75% or more) even under exposure to light (e.g., UV light) and at high temperatures (e.g., 55°C). In other words, the deterioration of the retinoid (a) in the composition according to the present invention caused by light and high temperatures can be reduced. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a cosmetic effect that is stable over time based on the retinoid (a) in the composition.

[0032] The compositions according to the invention may be transparent or translucent.

[0033] The transparency can be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, the turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (commercially available from HACH) equipped with a round cell (diameter 25 mm x height 60 mm) and a tungsten filament bulb capable of emitting visible light (between 400 nm and 800 nm, preferably 400-500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. A blank can be determined using distilled water.

[0034] The composition according to the invention may preferably have a turbidity of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, more preferably less than 100 NTU, even more preferably less than 50 NTU.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than component (b); and (d) at least one cationic polymer.

[0036] The components in the composition according to the invention are described in more detail below.

[0037] (Retinoids) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one retinoid. Two or more (a) retinoids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of retinoid may be used or a combination of different types of retinoids may be used.

[0038] (a) Retinoids are retinol (vitamin A), retinal (vitamin A aldehyde), retinoic acid (vitamin A acid), or retinol and C 2~20 It may also be an ester with an acid, for example the propionate, acetate, linoleate, or palmitate ester of retinol (retinyl palmitate).

[0039] (a) Among the retinoids, mention may be made of retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, in particular all-trans retinoic acid and 13-cis retinoic acid, retinol derivatives such as retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate or retinyl palmitate, and the retinoids described in the following patent applications: FR2370377, EP0199636, EP0325540, and EP0402072.

[0040] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, (a) the retinoid is retinol or pro-retinol.

[0041] The term "retinol" is intended to mean all isomers of retinol, i.e., all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol, and 3,4-didehydroretinol.

[0042] A representative example of pro-retinol is retinyl palmitate.

[0043] (a) The retinoid is preferably retinol.

[0044] The amount of (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] On the other hand, the amount of (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The amount of (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0047] In the context of this specification, any combination of upper and lower values ​​of a parameter may be used to express a preferred range of the parameter, e.g., amount.

[0048] (light blocking compound) The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less for light having a wavelength of 290-420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the (b) compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution. Thus, a single type of such (b) compound may be used or a combination of different types of such (b) compounds may be used.

[0049] The (b) compounds can provide low light transmittance, and therefore are sometimes called light blocking compounds.

[0050] The (b) compound may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0051] More preferably, the (b) compound is capable of providing a solution having zero (0) transmittance for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, and the concentration of the (b) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution.

[0052] It is even more preferred that the (b) compound is capable of providing a solution having zero (0) transmittance for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, and the concentration of the (b) compound in the solution is greater than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the solution.

[0053] The solvent for the solution is not limited as long as the (b) compound is solubilized in the solvent, and the solvent does not have absorbance for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm. For example, hydrophilic solvents such as water and ethanol may be used as the solvent.

[0054] The transmittance can be measured by a spectrophotometer, for example, a UV-Visible / NIR Spectrophotometer V-750 by JASCO Corp.

[0055] The (b) compound can provide a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and even more preferably zero (0)% for any light having a wavelength of 290-420 nm along a 10 mm optical path length. In other words, the (b) compound solution can reduce or block any light having a wavelength of 290 nm to 420 nm.

[0056] The (b) compound can reduce or block light having the above-mentioned specific wavelength that can reach the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention and decompose the (a) retinoid, and therefore the (b) compound can contribute to enhancing the photostability of the (a) retinoid and can reduce the decomposition of the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention.

[0057] The (b) compound may be selected from polyphenols.

[0058] - Polyphenols The expression "polyphenol" is understood to mean a compound containing several phenolic hydroxyl groups, which means hydroxyl groups attached to aromatic rings such as benzene and naphthalene rings. The phenolic hydroxyl groups may optionally be etherified or esterified.

[0059] The polyphenols may be selected from those that have antioxidant properties.

[0060] The polyphenol may, for example, be selected from flavonoids.

[0061] Preferred flavonoids have the general formula (I):

[0062] [ka]

[0063] (In the formula, A", B", C" and D" represent, independently of one another, H, OH, -R' or -OR', where R' represents a saccharide residue of formula R'OH, E" represents H, -OH or -OX', X' represents

[0064] [ka]

[0065] represents F", G" and J" are independently H, -OH or -OCH3; X1 represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-; Or general formula (II):

[0066] [ka]

[0067] (In the formula, A', C' and D', independently of one another, represent H, -OH, -OCH3, -R' or -OR', where R' represents a saccharide residue of formula R'OH, E' represents H, -OH or -OR', R' represents a saccharide residue of formula R'OH, B', F', G' and J', independently of one another, represent H, -OH, -OCH3, -OCH2-CH2-OH, or -OR', where R' represents a sugar residue of formula R'OH. It can be equivalent to.

[0068] Among the sugars R'OH, mention may be made of rutinose, glucose, apiose, rhamnose, lobinose, neohesperidose, or combinations thereof.

[0069] The compounds of formulae (I) and (II) are known and can be obtained, inter alia, by the methods described in "The Flavonoids", Harborne JB, Mabry TJ, Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1-45.

[0070] The flavonoid may be selected from flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavanols, flavanones, anthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Among the flavonoids that can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of apigenin, apiin, apigetrin, vitexin, chrysin, tringin, luteolin, orientin, galangin, quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, quercitrin, isoquercitrin, kaempferol, astragalin, kaempferitrin, robinin, myricetin, daidzein, daidzin, genistein, genistein, glycitein, glycitin, catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, naringenin, narirutin, naringin, hesperetin, hesperidin, glucosylhesperidin, anthocyanidin, anthocyanin, cyanidin, cyanin, delphinidin, delphinin, pelargonidin and pelargonin.

[0072] Certain polyphenols that can be used are present in plants and can be extracted therefrom by known methods. Extracts from tea leaves (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica) can be used. In particular, mention can be made of the green tea extract sold by the company Taiyo under the name SUNPHENON®, which contains, among other things, flavonoids.

[0073] As polyphenol, a mixture of glucosylrutin and rutin sold under the name ALPHA GLUCOSYL RUTIN by QINGDAO TAITONG PHARMACEUTICAL CO., LTD. can be used.

[0074] Among the polyphenols that can be used, mention may also be made of polyphenols such as carnosic acid and carnosol, which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984) or by extraction with a non-polar solvent such as hexane to remove odorous substances, followed by extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol, as described in EP-A-307,626.

[0075] Polyphenols may also be used as the (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylene carboxylic acids and their derivatives (especially esters and amides) of formula (III):

[0076] [ka]

[0077] (In the formula, R1″ represents —O-Alk, OH or —N(r′)(r″), where Alk is a linear or branched C1-C alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups. 20 Alkyl or C2-C 20 represents alkenyl, r' and r" are independently H, C1 to C 20 alkyl, C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C3-C6 polyhydroxyalkyl; or alternatively r' and r" together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a heterocycle; r is -(CH2) r - a number including zero such that the COR1 chain contains up to 21 carbon atoms, R2" and R3" independently represent H or C1-C4 alkyl, and in addition, R2" can also represent C1-C4 alkoxy. You may choose from.

[0078] Compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known methods, for example methods similar to those described in patents FR-2,400,358 and FR-2,400,359.

[0079] The polyphenol may also be selected from esters or amides of caffeic acid.

[0080] Among the esters of caffeic acid there are especially those of formula (IV):

[0081] [ka]

[0082] (In the formula, Z represents a C1-C8 alkyl, such as methyl, or a residue of phytol. Compounds of the formula:

[0083] Among the amides of caffeic acid there are in particular those of formula (V):

[0084] [ka]

[0085] (In the formula, Z' represents C1-C8, particularly C6-C8 alkyl. Compounds of the formula:

[0086] Compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

[0087] (b) The compound is Quercetin, isoquercetin, rutin, glucosylrutin, and mixtures thereof may be selected from the group consisting of:

[0088] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0091] (hydrophilic antioxidant) The composition of the present invention includes (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than component (b). A single type of hydrophilic antioxidant may be used, or two or more different types of hydrophilic antioxidants may be used in combination.

[0092] (c) the at least one hydrophilic antioxidant is different from (b) a compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution.

[0093] (c) A hydrophilic antioxidant may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0094] The term "antioxidant" as used herein refers to chemical compounds, enzymes, or other organic molecules that prevent free radicals from causing oxidation of molecules such as those found in keratinous materials. Antioxidants can protect such molecules from being damaged by reacting with oxidizing agents.

[0095] (c) The antioxidant is hydrophilic. The term "hydrophilic" as used herein means a substance that is water-soluble. The term "water-soluble" as used herein means a substance that is water-soluble at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "H2O2" refers to a substance that can be dissolved in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 1 g or more, or 10 g or more in 100 mL of water under 10 Pa.

[0096] The hydrophilic antioxidant may be selected from natural and synthetic antioxidants, preferably natural antioxidants.

[0097] Examples of (c) hydrophilic antioxidants include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, hydroxyacetophenone, dihydrochalone, zinc PCA, baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract and polydatin.Preferably, (c) hydrophilic antioxidants are selected from natural antioxidants, such as ascorbic acid, dihydrochalone, baicalin, ferulic acid, pine bark extract and polydatin.

[0098] Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, is a well-known cosmetic active ingredient. Ascorbic acid has the function of stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing melanin, and is therefore used as an anti-aging, whitening and / or anti-wrinkle ingredient in keratinous materials, especially skin. Ascorbic acid generally refers to L-ascorbic acid.

[0099] The ascorbic acid is preferably L-ascorbic acid or vitamin C. Its structure is represented by the following formula:

[0100] [ka]

[0101] The derivative of ascorbic acid may be a salt of ascorbic acid.The salt of ascorbic acid is preferably a medicament acceptable salt.The salt of ascorbic acid includes, but is not limited to, salts with organic bases (e.g., salts with tertiary amines, such as trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, monoethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts and pyridine salts, basic ammonium salts, such as arginine, etc.), and salts with inorganic bases (e.g., alkali metal salts, such as ammonium salts, sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium salts and magnesium salts, aluminum salts, etc.).

[0102] Due to their chemical structure (α-keto lactone) which makes them highly sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat and aqueous media, ascorbic acid derivatives may be advantageously used in the form of sugar esters of ascorbic acid or metal salts of phosphated ascorbic acid.

[0103] Sugar esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the present invention are, inter alia, the glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, more particularly ascorbyl-2 glucoside, or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid, or 6-OD galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and methods for their preparation are described, inter alia, in documents EP-A-487404, EP-A-425066 and JP-A-05-213736.

[0104] For this part, the metal salt of phosphated ascorbic acid may be selected from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates, and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0105] The derivative of ascorbic acid may preferably be selected from salts of ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid phosphates, such as sodium ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, among others, acetate esters of ascorbic acid, or sugar esters of ascorbic acid, including saccharide esters and especially glycosyl ascorbic acid.

[0106] In a preferred embodiment, (c) the antioxidant is selected from ascorbic acid, its salts, and combinations thereof.

[0107] The amount of (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0108] On the other hand, the amount of (c) hydrophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 5% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably 10% by mass to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0110] (cationic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0111] (d) A cationic polymer may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0112] The cationic polymer has a positive charge density of 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0113] The molecular weight of the cationic polymer may be 1000 or more, preferably 50,000 or more, more preferably 100,000 or more, and even more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

[0114] Unless otherwise defined herein, "molecular weight" means number average molecular weight.

[0115] The cationic polymer may have at least one positive charge and / or may have moieties that are selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary amino groups, quaternary ammonium groups, guanidine groups, biguanide groups, imidazole groups, imino groups and pyridyl groups. The term (primary) "amino group" herein means an -NH2 group.

[0116] The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and copolymers obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.

[0117] The cationic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are:

[0118] (1) Derived from esters and amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid, the formula:

[0119] [ka]

[0120] (In the formula, R1 and R2 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl and ethyl groups; R3, which may be the same or different, is selected from hydrogen and CH3; the symbols A may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and hydroxyalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R4, R5 and R6 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate, and a halide ion, such as chloride and bromide. Homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one unit selected from the units:

[0121] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain at least one unit derived from a comonomer, which may be selected from acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides whose nitrogen atoms are substituted with (C1-C4) lower alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid and their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0122] Examples of family (1) copolymers include, but are not limited to, the following: Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halides; Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0080976; Copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as those described in French Patents Nos. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573; dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymer, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer, and Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salt polymers, for example, polymers obtained by homopolymerizing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerizing acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, for example methylenebisacrylamide.

[0123] (2) Polymers containing piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by at least one element selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.

[0124] (3) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, for example prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines, which may be crosslinked with an element selected from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyldamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers obtained by reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive with elements selected from bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldamines, bisalkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent is used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be optionally alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function, quaternized. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patents nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0125] (4) Polyaminoamide derivatives obtained by condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents, such as adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl groups contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene groups contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethylene groups. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 1 583 363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0126] (5) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of the polyalkylenepolyamine to the dicarboxylic acid may be in the range of 0.8:1 to 1.4:1, and the polyaminoamide obtained therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide in the range of 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0127] (6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallyl-ammonium, for example those having, as main chain building blocks, the formulae (Ia) and (Ib):

[0128] [ka]

[0129] (In the formula, k and t may be the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R 12 is selected from hydrogen and a methyl group; R10 and R 11 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups, the alkyl group containing, for example, 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower (C1 to C4) amidoalkyl groups, or R 10 and R 11 may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 080 759 and its addition No. 2 190 406.

[0130] In one embodiment, R 10 and R 11 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0131] Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chlorides, such as the dimethyl(methyi)diallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its homologs of lower weight average molecular weight), and the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".

[0132] Formula (II):

[0133] [ka]

[0134] {In the formula, R 13, R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups; or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be taken together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached or separately form a heterocycle which optionally contains a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different, and may be a nitrile group, an ester group, an acyl group, an amide group, -CO-OR 17 -E group and -CO-NH-R 17 -E group [wherein, R 17 is an alkylene group, and E is a quaternary ammonium group; A1 and B1 may be the same or different and are selected from polymethylene groups containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain at least one element selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, linked to or inserted in the main chain; X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; A1, R 13 and R 15 may be taken together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached to form a piperazine ring; When A1 is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, B1 is -(CH2) n --CO-E'-OC-(CH2) n - [In the formula, E' is a) a compound of the formula -OZO-, where Z is a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group and -(CH2-CH2-O) x -CH2-CH2- -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O] y -CH2-CH(CH3)- (wherein x and y may be the same or different and are selected from integers in the range of 1 to 4 representing a unique defined degree of polymerization, and numbers in the range of 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization). (selected from the group glycol residues, b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals and the divalent radical -CH-CH-SS-CH-CH-. and d) a ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH- Select from can be selected from A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising at least one repeat unit of:

[0135] In at least one embodiment, X - is an anion, for example chloride or bromide.

[0136] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2320330, 2270846, 2316271, 2336434 and 2413907, and in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,0 02, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0137] Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those of formula (III):

[0138] [ka]

[0139] (In the formula, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; n and p are the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 20; X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. Examples of the repeating unit include those containing at least one of the following repeating units:

[0140] (7) Formula (IV):

[0141] [ka]

[0142] (In the formula, R 18 , R 19 , R 20and R 21 may be the same or different and are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) p OH group (wherein p is selected from an integer ranging from 0 to 6), provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 is not hydrogen at the same time, r and s may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 1 to 6; q is selected from an integer ranging from 0 to 34; X - is an anion, for example a halide ion, A is selected from the group consisting of dihalides and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-. A polyquaternary ammonium polymer comprising units of

[0143] Such compounds are described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0122324.

[0144] (8) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0145] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimine, polymers containing units selected from vinylpyridine units and vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines with epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, and chitin derivatives.

[0146] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as the product sold under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, such as the homo- and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550 and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0147] (9) Polyamines As cationic polymers it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, having multiple amino groups. The amino groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino groups. The amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone of the (co)polyamine or, if present, in pendant groups.

[0148] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polyallylamine, (co)polyvinylamine, (co)polyaniline, (co)polyvinylimidazole, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylate, (co)polyvinylpyridine such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridine, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethylenimine, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridine), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanide, (co)polylysine, (co)polyornithine, (co)polyarginine, (co)polyhistidine, aminodextran, aminocellulose, amino(co)polyvinyl acetal, and salts thereof.

[0149] As the (co)polyamine, it is preferred to use (co)polylysine. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be ε-poly-L-lysine, which is typically used as a natural preservative in food. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents, such as water, propylene glycol and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.

[0150] (10) Cationic polyamino acids It may also be possible to use cationic polyamino acids as cationic polymers, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers having multiple amino and carboxyl groups. The amino groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino groups. The amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone of the cationic polyamino acid or in pendant groups, if present. The carboxyl groups may be present in pendant groups of the cationic polyamino acid, if present.

[0151] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

[0152] It may be preferred that the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines, such as (co)polylysine, cationic (co)polyamino acids, such as cationized collagen, and salts thereof.

[0153] (11) Cationic polysaccharides (d) The cationic polymer of the present invention may preferably be selected from cationic polysaccharides.

[0154] The charge density of the cationic polysaccharide can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0155] The molecular weight of the cationic polysaccharide may be 1000 or more, preferably 50,000 or more, more preferably 100,000 or more, and even more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

[0156] Unless otherwise defined herein, "molecular weight" means number average molecular weight.

[0157] The cationic polysaccharide may have at least one positively charged and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary amino groups, quaternary ammonium groups, guanidine groups, biguanide groups, imidazole groups, imino groups and pyridyl groups. The term (primary) "amino group" herein means an -NH2 group. (a) The cationic polysaccharide preferably has at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0158] The cationic polysaccharides may be homopolymers or copolymers. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and copolymers obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.

[0159] The cationic polysaccharide may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

[0160] The cationic polysaccharide is preferably selected from cationic cellulose polymers.

[0161] According to the present invention, "cationic cellulose polymer" denotes any non-silicified (non-silicon atom-containing) cellulose polymer that contains cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and preferably does not contain anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.

[0162] The term "cellulose" polymer, according to the present invention, denotes any polysaccharide compound having at least 20 glucose residue chains in its structure linked by β-1,4 bonds. Cellulose polymers may also be associative, i.e., they may contain at least one C8-C 30 It may have a fatty chain.

[0163] Cationic cellulose polymers suitable for use preferably have a molecular weight of about 5000 to 5.10 6 Between about 10 3 From 3.10 6 The weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between 100 and 150.

[0164] Non-limiting examples of cationic cellulose polymers are as follows:

[0165] (10-1) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as those described in French Patent No. 1492597, such as the polymers sold by Union Carbide Corporation under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M). These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

[0166] (10-2) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble monomers of quaternary ammonium, and those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted with salts selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidepropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Commercially available products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold by National Starch under the names "Celquat (registered trademark) L 200" and "Celquat (registered trademark) H 100".

[0167] (10-3) A cationic cellulose polymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group containing at least one fatty chain. The fatty chain of the quaternized cellulose modified by a group containing at least one linear fatty chain may be linear alkyl, linear or branched aryl alkyl, linear alkyl aryl, preferably linear alkyl (these groups contain at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24 or 10 to 14 carbon atoms), or a mixture thereof.

[0168] Preferred examples include quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one linear aliphatic chain, such as linear alkyl, linear aryl alkyl, linear alkyl aryl, preferably linear alkyl (these groups contain 8 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24 or 10 to 14 carbon atoms), or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose is represented by the formula (Ib):

[0169] [ka]

[0170] (In the formula, - R is an ammonium group RaRbRcN + -, Q-, Ra, Rb, and Rc are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q- represents an anionic counter ion, for example a halide, for example a chloride ion or a bromide ion; - R' is an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN + R'a, R'b, and R'c are the same or different and each represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl; Q'- represents an anionic counterion, for example a halide, for example a chloride ion or a bromide ion, preferably an alkyl; It is understood that at least one of the groups Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, and R'c represents a linear, C8-C30, alkyl; - n, x and y are the same or different and represent integers between 1 and 10000. Hydroxyethyl cellulose of the formula (I) can be mentioned.

[0171] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the groups Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, and R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably C10-C24 or C10-C14, and in particular a dodecyl group (C12).Preferably, the other groups represent linear C1-C4 alkyl groups, in particular methyl.

[0172] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the groups Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, and R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl, preferably C10-C24 or C10-C14, and in particular a dodecyl group (C12).Preferably, all the other groups represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0173] More preferably, R is -N + (CH3) 3、 Q' - and -N + (C 12 H 25 )(CH3) 2、 Q - A group selected from the group consisting of + (CH3) 3、 Q' - It is possible.

[0174] More preferably, R' is -N + (C 12 H 25 )(CH3) 2、 Q' - It can be a group.

[0175] The percentage of nitrogen may vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total polymer weight.

[0176] In particular, polymers having the following INCI names: Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200® sold by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; PG-hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®, PG-hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL®, and PG-hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QS® sold by the company CRODA Examples include:

[0177] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib), in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide salt and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide salt, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl-, (CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl-, (CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67, and among the commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X.

[0178] More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with trimethylammonium epoxide and lauryldimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name Polyquaternium-67), preferably sold under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by the company Amerchol.

[0179] (10-4) The non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharide may be selected from cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gum (cationic guar), cationic starch, cationic hyaluronic acid, chitosan, and dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0180] The term "cationic galactomannan gum" refers to any galactomannan gum that contains cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

[0181] Galactomannans are polysaccharides essentially composed of galactose and mannose units, the mannose units being linked by 1-4-glycosidic bonds and the galactose branches occurring by 1-6 bridges to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (i.e. sugar units) has three free hydroxyl groups available for chemical reactions. Galactomannans are commonly found in the endosperm of legumes, such as guar or carob kernels.

[0182] Preferred cationic groups are selected from those containing primary, secondary, tertiary, and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0183] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally range from about 500 to 5×10 6 Between about 10 3 From 3×10 6 The weight average molecular weight is between 1.0 and 1.0.

[0184] A group of cationic galactomannans suitable for use according to the invention are, for example, gums containing trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, between 2% and 30% of the number of hydroxyl functional groups of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0185] Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made in great detail of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0186] Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0187] The gum may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of guar gum, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum and acacia gum.

[0188] These galactomannan gums, in particular those derived from guar modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307.

[0189] According to the present invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum containing hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum containing hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. for example a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0190] These galactomannan gums, in particular those derived from guar modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are described, for example, in US Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. Other such products are sold, in particular, by Rhodia under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), by Degussa under the name Amilan® Guar (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) and by Aqualon under the name N-Hance® 3000 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride). Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, the hydroxypropyl derivative of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available from Rhodia Inc. under the trade name Jaguar™ series. Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. under the trademarks Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400, or from Ashland Inc. under the trademark ClearHance™.

[0191] As examples of cationic starches, mention may be made of starches modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride), such as the product known by the INCI name Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 by the company Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 by the company Ingredion.

[0192] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, (d) the cationic polymer is selected from cationic polysaccharides, preferably non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, more preferably cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

[0193] The amount of (d) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0194] The amount of (d) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0195] The amount of the (d) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0196] dispersed phase The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of dispersed phases. Each of the dispersed phases is well dispersed in the composition without settling or floating. In addition, the dispersed phases of the present invention are not droplets of oil, water, etc., so the dispersed composition according to the present invention is not an emulsion.

[0197] The shape of the dispersed phase is not particularly limited. The dispersed phase may be of any shape, regardless of the crystal form (e.g., lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), and may be platelet-shaped, spherical, or oblong.

[0198] The size of the dispersed phase is not particularly limited. For example, the number average primary diameter of the dispersed phase is within the range of 5 nm to 10 mm, preferably 10 nm to 5 mm.

[0199] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" refers to the largest dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposed points on an individual particle. The term "number average diameter" refers to the diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, referred to as D50. The size of the dispersed phase can be measured by observation with a SEM (scanning electron microscope), a TEM (transmission electron microscope), an optical microscope or a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer.

[0200] The dispersed phase of the present invention may comprise or consist of capsules or inorganic fillers. The term "fillers" should be understood to mean any form of mineral or natural particle that is insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is prepared.

[0201] In a preferred embodiment, the continuous phase may be an aqueous continuous phase, so in a preferred embodiment, the dispersed phase is insoluble in water or retains its shape in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble" is used herein to mean a dispersion that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 This refers to a material that is soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of water (at 100 Pa).

[0202] capsule The term "capsule" is intended herein to mean a particle or bead comprising a core, also called "inner core", surrounded by a coating based on one or more layers or films, also called "shell" or "outer layer". The shell may comprise one layer or two or more layers.

[0203] The shape of the capsule is not particularly limited. For example, the capsule may be in the shape of a sphere.

[0204] The capsule preferably comprises a core and at least one shell surrounding the core.

[0205] The number of layers or coatings in a shell is not limited, but it may be preferred that the shell comprises one layer or coating.

[0206] In one embodiment of the present invention, the shell may include at least one polysaccharide other than the (d) cationic polymer. In other words, a layer or coating in the shell may be formed of at least one polysaccharide other than the (d) cationic polymer.

[0207] Capsules can be prepared by surrounding the core, which can be carried out by any conventional method. For example, the core-forming composition and the shell-forming composition can be co-extruded. In this case, the extruded core-forming composition can form the core, and the shell-forming composition can form the shell. The co-extruded core / shell structure can be converted into a core / shell particle that corresponds to a capsule.

[0208] The size of the capsules is not particularly limited. For example, the number average primary diameter of the capsules is in the range of 100 μm to 10 mm, preferably 250 μm to 7 mm, more preferentially 500 μm to 5 mm, even more preferably 750 μm to 3 mm, in particular 1 mm to 2 mm.

[0209] Inorganic Fillers The inorganic filler may preferably be selected from inorganic UV filter powders and inorganic coloring fillers.

[0210] - Inorganic UV protection powder The inorganic UV filter powder used for the present invention can be effective in the UV-A and / or UV-B region, preferably in the UV-B region, or in the UV-A and UV-B regions. The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention can contain a further additional UV filter in addition to the inorganic UV filter powder. The active UV filter region of the inorganic UV filter powder and the active UV filter region of the additional UV filter are preferably complementary to each other to provide comprehensive UV protection. For example, it is preferred that the inorganic UV filter powder is active at least in the UV-B region, and the additional UV filter is active at least in the UV-A region. The inorganic UV filter powder can be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0211] The inorganic UV filter powder may be in the form of fine particles with an average primary particle size of less than 200 nm, preferably less than 180 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 180 nm, even more preferably between 5 nm and 150 nm, and even more preferably between 10 nm and 100 nm. The average primary particle size here means the number-average diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, and is referred to as D50. For example, such a number-average diameter of the inorganic UV filter powder can be measured by SEM (scanning electron microscope) and / or TEM (transmission electron microscope).

[0212] The inorganic UV filter powder may be selected from metal oxides such as titanium oxide (in rutile and / or anatase form, amorphous or crystalline), zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, all of which are well-known UV photoprotectors. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter powder is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and cerium oxide.

[0213] The inorganic UV filter powder may be coated or uncoated. The coating is not particularly limited, and any conventional coating may be used. For example, the coating may include at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicone, silanes, fatty acids or their salts (e.g., sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds.

[0214] - Inorganic color fillers The term "inorganic colored fillers" as used herein should be understood to include inorganic pigments, pearlescent agents and reflective particles, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0215] The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored particles of any shape that are insoluble in the physiological medium and that are intended to color the composition.

[0216] Among the pigments that may be mentioned are optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, such as pigmented titanium dioxide of the rutile type, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and also metal powders, such as aluminium powder and copper powder.

[0217] The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean any form of colored particle, which may or may not be iridescent, produced in particular by certain mollusks in their shells or otherwise synthesized, and which has a color effect through optical interference.

[0218] Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent agents may also be particles of mica, the surface of which is overlain by at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes. Pearlescent agents may more particularly have the color or color glitter of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper.

[0219] The term "reflective particles" denotes particles that, due to their size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer they form, as well as their physical and chemical properties and surface condition, are capable of reflecting incident light. This reflection can, if appropriate, be of sufficient intensity to produce, when applied to a support to be made up, excessively bright spots, i.e. spots brighter in comparison with the environment, visible to the naked eye, on the surface of the composition or mixture, by appearing shiny.

[0220] The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect produced by the colorants with which they are combined, and more particularly to optimize this effect in terms of color yield.

[0221] Whatever its form, the reflective particles may or may not have a multi-layer structure, and if they do have a multi-layer structure, they may have at least one layer, particularly of reflective material, for example of uniform thickness.

[0222] If the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can consist, for example, of metal oxides, especially synthetically obtained titanium oxide or iron oxide.

[0223] If the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, the particles may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer of reflective material, especially with at least one layer of metal or metallic material. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and / or inorganic materials.

[0224] More particularly, the substrate may be selected from glass, ceramic, graphite, metal oxides, alumina, silica, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list being non-limiting.

[0225] The reflective material may include a metal or a layer of a metallic material.

[0226] Again, examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal include particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

[0227] Metallic substrates, such as particles containing silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or titanium, can also be used, said substrates being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide or silicon oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0228] In some particular embodiments of the present invention, the dispersed phase comprises or consists of at least one capsule.

[0229] In a further particular embodiment, the (a) retinoid is present in a capsule. For example, the core of the capsule may contain the (a) retinoid. The encapsulation of the (a) retinoid may prevent or reduce contact between the (a) retinoid and the (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant, such as ascorbic acid, and may reduce the change in color (particularly brightness) of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, the capsule may reduce the color evolution of the composition according to the present invention.

[0230] In some embodiments, essential components (b)-(d) are present in the continuous phase of the composition.

[0231] The amount of dispersed phase in the composition according to the invention may be at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, even more preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] On the other hand, the amount of dispersed phase in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and even more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] The amount of the dispersed phase in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] Continuous Phase The continuous phase can be a dispersion medium for the multiple dispersed phases of the present invention. The continuous phase can therefore be in the form of a liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0235] The form of the continuous phase is not particularly limited. In general, the continuous phase is a liquid phase having a viscosity of 1000 psig at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 The continuous phase is liquid at room temperature (°C) (Pa). The continuous phase can take various forms, such as, for example, a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, an emulsion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), etc.

[0236] Preferably, the continuous phase of the present invention can be an aqueous continuous phase. In another preferred embodiment, the continuous phase can be an aqueous solution.

[0237] In some particular embodiments of the present invention, the continuous phase of the present invention contains a small amount of oil or is oil-free. For example, the continuous phase may contain oil in an amount of 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0% to 1% by weight, especially 0% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the continuous phase. In another embodiment, the continuous phase is oil-free.

[0238] The viscosity of the continuous phase in the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, but may generally be, for example, in the range of 4000 to 8000 Pa·s at 25° C. For the purposes of the present invention, the viscosity may be measured at 25° C. using a viscometer or rheometer, preferably having a cone-plate or parallel-plate geometry.

[0239] (Optional Ingredients) The dispersed and continuous phases in the composition may contain optional components in addition to the essential components (a) to (d) described above.

[0240] - oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0241] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, either alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0242] The oil may be present in the dispersed phase. In one embodiment, the dispersed phase comprises at least one oil.

[0243] The oil may be selected from polar or non-polar oils.

[0244] The term "polar oil" as used herein means a polar oil having a solubility parameter δ d is greater than 16, and the solubility parameter δ p The solubility parameter δ is strictly greater than 0. d and δ p is defined according to the Hansen classification.

[0245] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article CM Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).

[0246] According to this Hansen space, δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles, δh characterizes the specific interaction force (e.g., hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.), δ a is δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 1 ) 1 / 2 The parameter δ is determined by the following equation: p , δ h , δ d , and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:

[0247] It may be preferred that the polar oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable or animal oils, such as triglycerides, ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from ester oils.

[0248] The active oil may in particular be chosen from the following oils: Hydrocarbon polar oils, such as phytostearyl esters, e.g., phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate, and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Inc., Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol (especially those whose fatty acids are C4-C 36 , especially C 18 ~C 36 and optionally these oils are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may be, inter alia, heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides), wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, cucurbit oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passion flower oil, or musk rose oil; shea butter; or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as Stearineries those sold by the company Dubois or under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - hydrocarbon esters of the formula RCOOR', where RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, stearic acid or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoic acid esters, especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid esters, decanoic acid esters or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate and mixtures thereof, C 12 ~C 15 alcohol benzoate esters, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoate esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate and myristyl myristate; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in patent application FR0853634, in particular polyesters obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol, for example. In this respect, mention may be made, inter alia, of the polymer sold by the company Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or else of copolymers of polyols with dimer diacids and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; aliphatic alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol; - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; - fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid; dialkyl carbonates, in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis, - non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example between 400 g / mol and 10 000 g / mol, in particular between 650 g / mol and 10 000 g / mol, such as: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, for example the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer Antaron V-216 (MW = 7300 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company ISP; ii) Esters, such as: a) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g / mol); b) Hydroxylated esters, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g / mol); c) Aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g / mol), C 12 ~C 15 Alcohol benzoates, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyloctyl salicylate, d) C 24 ~C 28Esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as, for example, those described in patent application EP-A-0955039, especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol), e) esters and polyesters of dimer diols with mono- or dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of dimer diols with fatty acids and esters of dimer diols with dimer dicarboxylic acids, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by Nippon Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd., and those described in patent application US 2004-175338, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference; - and mixtures thereof.

[0249] The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means here a polar oil essentially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, but containing no silicon or fluorine atoms, which may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0250] It is preferred that the oil has a log P value of 7.0 or less, more preferably 6.5 or less, even more preferably 6.0 or less. It is sometimes preferred that the oil has a log P value of 1.0 or more, more preferably 1.5 or more, even more preferably 2.0 or more. It is therefore sometimes preferred that the oil has a log P value of 1.0 to 7.0, more preferably 1.5 to 6.5, even more preferably 2.0 to 6.0.

[0251] The log P value is the logarithm to the base 10 of the apparent partition coefficient of octan-1-ol / water. The log P value is known and is determined by standard tests for determining the concentration of oil in octan-1-ol and water. The log P can be calculated according to the method described in Meylan and Howard, Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using a number of commercially available software packages that determine the log P as a function of molecular structure. An example is the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

[0252] This value can be calculated using, inter alia, Solaris software V4.67 from ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development), and it can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also an internet site that provides approximate values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0253] The oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of amide bonds, ester bonds, and mixtures thereof. An amide bond is defined herein as -CONR-, where R is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C 18 By -COO- is meant an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and by ester bond is meant here -COO-. In other words, the oil may have two or more amide bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one amide bond and at least one ester bond.

[0254] The oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of ether bonds, ester bonds and mixtures thereof. An ether bond herein means -O- and an ester bond herein means -COO-. In other words, the oil may have two or more ether bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one ether bond and at least one ester bond.

[0255] It may be preferred that the oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0256] On the other hand, an example of a non-polar oil is squalane.

[0257] The oil may be selected from triglycerides, which are esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids, sometimes called triacylglycerols.

[0258] The triglyceride for the oil preferably has at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, the triglyceride for the oil is preferably an ester derived from glycerol and at least one unsaturated fatty acid. Thus, the triglyceride for the oil can be (i) an ester derived from glycerol and one unsaturated fatty acid and two saturated fatty acids, (ii) an ester derived from glycerol and two unsaturated fatty acids and one saturated fatty acid, or (iii) an ester derived from glycerol and three unsaturated fatty acids. When two or more unsaturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different. When two saturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.

[0259] According to the present invention, "unsaturated fatty acids" refers to fatty acids containing at least one carbon-carbon double or triple bond. These are more particularly fatty acids with long chains, i.e. they can have from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0260] The fatty acids may be monounsaturated, such as petroselinic acid (C12), palmitoleic acid (C16) and oleic acid (C18), or polyunsaturated, i.e. presenting at least two carbon-carbon double bonds, such as linoleic acid (C18) and linolenic acid (C18).

[0261] More preferably, the triglyceride for the oil has at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue, in other words, it is more preferred that the triglyceride for the oil is an ester derived from glycerol and at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid.

[0262] The polyunsaturated fatty acids may be selected from omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9 fatty acids, which are characterized by the position of unsaturation closest to the terminal methyl group.

[0263] Polyunsaturated fatty acids containing between 18 and 22 carbon atoms, especially those selected from omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, may be more preferred.

[0264] Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the omega-3 series, mention may be made of α-linolenic acid (18:3, omega-3), stearidonic acid (18:4, omega-3), 5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid, or EPA (20:5, omega-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid, or DHA (22:6, omega-3), docosapentaenoic acid (22:5, omega-3), and n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienoic acid.

[0265] Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the omega-6 series, there may be mentioned linoleic acid (18:2, omega-6), which has 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations, gamma-linolenic acid (18:3, omega-6), which has 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations, dihomogamma-linolenic acid (20:3, omega-6), which has 20 carbon atoms and three unsaturations, arachidonic acid, i.e. 5,8,11,14 eicosatetraenoic acid (20:4, omega-6), and docosatetraenoic acid (22:4, omega-6).

[0266] Omega-9 fatty acids can include mead acid (20:3, omega-9).

[0267] The polyunsaturated fatty acids may be selected from alpha-linolenic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0268] Among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglycerides for the oil, the amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, more preferably 50% by weight or more, based on the total weight of fatty acids.

[0269] Among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglycerides for the oil, the mass ratio of the amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids / the amount of monounsaturated fatty acids may be greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 1.5, more preferably greater than 2.0.

[0270] The oil may be selected from vegetable oils.

[0271] For example, the oil may be selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, rice oil, corn oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, linseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0272] Preferably, the oil is selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0273] The amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 15% by mass, more preferably 1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0274] - polysaccharide The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymer (d). A single type of polysaccharide may be used, or two or more different types of polysaccharides may be used in combination.

[0275] (d) The polysaccharide other than the cationic polymer may be present in the dispersed phase and / or the continuous phase. Preferably, the polysaccharide is present in both the dispersed and continuous phases.

[0276] The polysaccharide is preferably chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants, in other words the polysaccharide is preferably of plant origin.

[0277] On the other hand, it is also preferred that the polysaccharide is not selected from cellulose and its derivatives.

[0278] According to the invention, the term "polysaccharides of plant origin" means, in particular, polysaccharides obtained from the plant kingdom (plants or algae), as opposed to polysaccharides obtained by biotechnology, in the latter case, for example, xanthan gum, produced in particular by fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris.

[0279] As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, inter alia, of the following: a) algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiaguum UTC 30® and UTC 10® from the company Degussa, and an alginate that may be mentioned is sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that may be mentioned include the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) sold by the company GfN, c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained from cereals, such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, such as blonde pea, from tubers, such as potato or cassava, and tapioca starch; dextrins, such as corn dextrin; examples which may be mentioned in particular include rice starch Remy DR I® sold by the company Remy; corn starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch, d) dextrins, such as those extracted from corn, such as those sold under the name Index® by National Starch, and A mixture of these.

[0280] Preferably, the polysaccharides are selected from algae extracts.

[0281] The algae extract may be selected from alginate, carrageenan and agar, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginate or agar, or mixtures thereof, may be used.

[0282] The amount of polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.005% to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.01% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0283] - Lipophilic antioxidant The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic antioxidant. A single type of lipophilic antioxidant may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic antioxidants may also be used in combination.

[0284] Lipophilic antioxidants are (a) distinct from retinoids.

[0285] A lipophilic antioxidant may preferably be present in the dispersed phase.

[0286] By lipophilic antioxidant is meant that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant between n-butanol and water is greater than 1, more preferably greater than 10, and even more preferably greater than 100.

[0287] As the lipophilic antioxidant, there can be mentioned a phenolic antioxidant having a hindered phenol structure or a semi-hindered phenol structure in the molecule. Specific examples of such compounds include 3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid (having the INCI name pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate), 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(α-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2'-methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, trimethylol, 2,5-di-tert-butyl ... bis[N-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)]isocyanurate, 1,1,3-tris(2-methyl-4-hydroxy-5-tert-butylphenyl)butane, butylidene-1,1 bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionato]methane, triethylene glycol bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-1,1-dimethylethyl}-2,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro[5.5]Undecane, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylene bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylene bis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], 1,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)-6 -(4-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butylanilino)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-tert-butyl-6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl acrylate, 2-[1-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4,6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate and 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate].

[0288] Lipophilic antioxidants may also include: BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxyl toluene), Vitamin E (i.e. tocopherols and tocotrienols) and derivatives thereof, such as phosphate derivatives, e.g. TPNA® sold by Showa Denko KK, Coenzyme Q10 (i.e. ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids, such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene, phenolic acids and derivatives (e.g. chlorogenic acid).

[0289] Lipophilic antioxidants which may also be mentioned include dithiolanes, such as asparagusic acid or its derivatives, such as siliceous dithiolane derivatives, especially those described, for example, in patent application FR 2 908 769.

[0290] Lipophilic antioxidants that may also be mentioned include: Glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and / or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (e.g. those described in patent applications FR2704754 and FR2908769); Cysteine ​​and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine ​​or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. Reference may also be made to the following: the cysteine ​​derivatives described in patent applications FR2877004 and FR2854160; Certain enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductase, to protect against oxidative stress; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (among others those described in patent application EP 0511118); caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing it (except watercress), diisopropyl esters of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, as described inter alia in patent applications WO 94 / 11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925, Deferoxamine (or Desferal), described in patent application FR2825920.

[0291] Lipophilic antioxidants which may also be used are chalcones, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, or extracts of maritime pine bark, such as PYCNOGENOL®.

[0292] Examples of lipophilic antioxidants may also include pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl toluene, butylated hydroxyl anisole, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.

[0293] The lipophilic antioxidant is preferably biodegradable. In this sense, BHT, which is not biodegradable, is not preferred as the lipophilic antioxidant. Therefore, it is preferred not to use BHT as the lipophilic antioxidant. Furthermore, it is preferred that the composition according to the present invention does not contain BHT.

[0294] The term "free" means here that the composition according to the invention may contain a limited amount of BHT. However, it is preferred that the amount of BHT is limited to less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain BHT.

[0295] More preferably, the lipophilic antioxidant is selected from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0296] The amount of lipophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0297] - Chelating Agents The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one chelating agent. A single type of chelating agent may be used, but two or more different types of chelating agents may also be used in combination.

[0298] A chelating agent may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0299] Chelating agents may include: (i) Aminocarboxylic acids, such as the compounds having the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, e.g. Octaquest from Octel. E30, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl iminodiacetic acid (references EP-A-317542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (as described in EP-A-509382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509382), ethanoldiglycinic acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acids, such as the compound sold under the reference Bayhibit AM by the company Bayer, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), such as Dissolvine GL 38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel, (ii) Chelators based on mono- or polyphosphonic acids, such as the compounds having the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP); (iii) Chelating agents based on polyphosphate, such as compounds having the following INCI names: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives; and A mixture of these.

[0300] More preferably, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0301] The amount of the chelating agent in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.001% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.005% to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0302] - water The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.

[0303] The water in the composition according to the invention can form the continuous phase. Water may also be present in the dispersed phase.

[0304] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 55% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0305] On the other hand, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be up to 90% by weight, preferably up to 85% by weight, more preferably up to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0306] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 50% to 90% by mass, preferably 55% to 85% by mass, and more preferably 60% to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0307] - Polyol The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol different from the polyphenol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may also be used in combination.

[0308] The polyol may be present in the dispersed phase.

[0309] The term "polyol" as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxyl groups, and does not include sugars or their derivatives. Derivatives of sugars include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which the hydrogen atom of one or more hydroxyl groups is replaced by at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0310] The polyol is a C2-C hydroxyl group containing at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups. 12 It may be a polyol, preferably a C2 to C9 polyol.

[0311] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0312] The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and mixtures thereof.

[0313] The amount of polyol in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] On the other hand, the amount of polyol in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0315] Thus, the polyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, for example from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0316] - pH adjuster The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted to a desired value using at least one pH adjusting agent commonly used in cosmetics, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent.

[0317] The pH of the composition according to the invention may be, at 25° C., 9.0 or less, preferably 8.5 or less, more preferably 8.0 or less, even more preferably 7.5 or less, especially 7.0 or less, and may be 2.5 or more, preferably 3.0 or more, more preferably 3.5 or more.

[0318] A pH adjuster may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned are inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0319] Among the basifying agents, examples are hydroxide salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide; alkali metal silicates, such as sodium metasilicate; carbonates and bicarbonates, in particular carbonates and bicarbonates of primary, secondary or tertiary amines, carbonates and bicarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates; and compounds of the formula:

[0320] [ka]

[0321] (In the formula, W is a C1-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl group; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group. Mention may be made, inter alia, of 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

[0322] The pH adjuster may be used in an amount within the range of 0.001% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, and particularly 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0323] - Non-ionic surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant. If two or more non-ionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

[0324] A non-ionic surfactant may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0325] The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, more preferably 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16, more preferably 13 to 15. When two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by a weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the nonionic surfactants.

[0326] The non-ionic surfactant may be selected from: (1) a surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides, and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers; (2) Mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids, and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) A surfactant selected from fatty esters of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, and oxyalkylenated fatty esters; (5) Block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B); (6) Polyoxyethylenated (1-40EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 )ether, (7) Silicone surfactants, and (8) Mixtures of these.

[0327] The surfactant (1) may be fluid at a temperature of 45°C or less.

[0328] The surfactant (1) may in particular be: - at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, e.g. C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C 18 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, more preferably C8-C 12 Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl group and 2 to 12 glycerols, preferably 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols; - polyoxyethylenated (PEGylated) alkyl glycerides, such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides of caprylic and capric acid (preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even more preferably having from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), such as PEG-6 (caprylic / capric) glyceride, PEG-7 (caprylic / capric) glyceride, and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, - at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 22 Hydrocarbon groups, e.g. C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C 18 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, more preferably C8-C 12 polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, aliphatic alcohol containing an alkyl or alkenyl group and 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units, and - A mixture of these.

[0329] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 30 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 20 glycerols, and even more preferably from 4 to 12 glycerols.

[0330] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the mono-, di- and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acids, preferably saturated acids, containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid. As an example of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-10 isostearate.

[0331] The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers, may contain 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ether may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned are lauryl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4 and laureth-5), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., Emalex 703 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. and EMALEX 705 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd. Mention may also be made, for example, of stearyl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 and 20 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: steareth-2, steareth-3, steareth-4, steareth-5 and steareth-20), such as the products sold under the name Emalex 602 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., under the name Emalex 603 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., under the name Nikkol BS-4 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. and under the name Emalex 605 by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.

[0332] Polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers are C8-C 24Polyethylene glycol ethers of aliphatic alcohols and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, and C4-C 24 Also preferred are polypropylene glycol ethers of aliphatic alcohols, such as PPG-14 butyl ether and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

[0333] (2) Mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acids and glycerol can be used as the nonionic surfactants described above and can be particularly selected from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols having an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, α-hydroxy acids and / or succinic acid and glycerol. The α-hydroxy acids can be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0334] The alkyl chains of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention are derived may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may be, inter alia, stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] As examples of mixed esters that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol with a mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: glyceryl citric acid / lactic acid / linoleic acid / oleate) sold by the company Huls under the name Imwitor 375, the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Huls under the name Imwitor 780 K, the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl citrate stearate) sold by the company Huls under the name Imwitor 370, and the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl lactate stearate) sold by the company Danisco under the names Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

[0336] The fatty acid ester of sugar (3) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant is C8-C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, as well as C 14 ~C 22 It may in particular be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids and of methylglucose.

[0337] C8 to C4 forming the fatty unit of the ester that can be used in the present invention 22 Or C 14 ~C 22 The fatty acids comprise saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

[0338] The sugar aliphatic alcohol ether (3) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant may be solid at a temperature of 45° C. or less and may be any of C8 to C6 22 Ethers or mixtures of ethers of aliphatic alcohols with glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, as well as C 14 ~C 22 They may in particular be selected from the group comprising the ethers or mixtures of ethers of aliphatic alcohols and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

[0339] C8-C forming the fatty units of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention 22 Or C 14 ~C 22 The fatty alcohols contain saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl or alkenyl chains containing 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty units of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. As an example of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of caprylyl / capryl glucoside.

[0340] (4) Fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan that can be used as the nonionic surfactants described above are C 16 ~C 22 Oxyethylation of fatty acid esters and sorbitan C 16 ~C 22 The oxyethylenated esters may be selected from the group comprising fatty acid esters, which may be formed from at least one fatty acid containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain, each containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters may generally contain 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

[0341] These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof, with stearates and palmitates being preferably used.

[0342] The (4) oxyalkylenated fatty ester, preferably ethoxylated fatty ester, which may be used as the nonionic surfactant may be an ester formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and at least one fatty acid chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the ester may be selected in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned are stearic acid esters containing 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, and behenic acid esters containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

[0343] The block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) that can be used as the nonionic surfactant is represented by the formula (I): HO(C2H4O) x (C3H6O) y (C2H4O) z H (I) (In the formula, x, y, and z are integers such that x+z is within a range of 2 to 100, and y is within a range of 14 to 60.) and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from block copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value in the range of 8.0 to 14.0.

[0344] (6) Polyoxyethylenated (1-40EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 ) The ether may be selected from the group consisting of: PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30; polyoxyethylene (30) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PEN-4630; PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-12; polyoxyethylene (12) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PEN-4612; PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24; polyoxyethylene (24) polyoxypropylene (13) decyltetradecyl ether, such as that sold by NOF Corporation as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B; PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (6) decyltetradecyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PEN-4620; PPG-4 ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PBC-31; PPG-8 ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PBC-41; PPG-4 ceteth-10; polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PBC-33; PPG-4 ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PBC-34; PPG-5 ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Croda Inc. as Procetyl AWS; PPG-8 ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether, such as that sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. as Nikkol PBC-44; and PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene stearyl ether (34 EO) (23 PO), such as that sold as Unisafe 34S-23 by POLA CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES, INC. These can provide compositions that have long-term stability even when the temperature of the composition rises and falls within a relatively short period of time.

[0345] As (7) silicone surfactants which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US Pat. No. 5,364,633 and US Pat. No. 5,411,744.

[0346] The silicone surfactant (7) as the nonionic surfactant is preferably represented by the formula (I):

[0347] [ka]

[0348] (In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently a C1 to C6 alkyl group or -(CH2) x -(OCH2CH2) y -(OCH2CH2CH2) z represents an -OR group, where at least one R, R or R group is not an alkyl group, and R is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group; A is an integer in the range of 0 to 200, B is an integer in the range of 0 to 50, provided that A and B are not both equal to 0; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. The compound may be:

[0349] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2-6, and y is an integer in the range of 4-30.

[0350] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include those of formula (II):

[0351] [ka]

[0352] (In the formula, A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20.) Compounds of the formula:

[0353] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include those of formula (III): H-(OCH2CH2) y -(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO] A' -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2) y -OH (III) (In the formula, A' and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20.) Compounds of the formula:

[0354] The non-ionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0355] - Additives The compositions according to the invention, and in particular the continuous phase of the invention, may also contain, in addition to the components explained above, various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, hydrophilic antioxidants, hydrophilic active ingredients, colorants, thickeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersants, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives, light stabilizers, such as tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0356] Hydrophilic active ingredients can include vitamin B3 and derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0357] Hydrophilic active ingredients may be present in the continuous phase of the present invention.

[0358] The amount of the additive contained in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be 0.01 to 30% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition according to the present invention.

[0359] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.

[0360] The method and means of mixing the above-mentioned essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above-mentioned essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The dispersion composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the dispersed phase and the continuous phase.

[0361] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0362] The compositions according to the invention can be used for non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods for treating keratinous materials, for example the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by application to the keratinous materials.

[0363] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.

[0364] The composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle or turnover-promoting product for keratinous materials such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-wrinkle skin cosmetic.

[0365] The above explanations regarding components (a) to (d) and optional components for the composition according to the invention are applicable to the components for the uses and methods according to the invention described above. EXAMPLES

[0366] The present invention will now be described in more detail by examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0367] (Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3) The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were prepared according to the following protocol: All numerical values ​​for the amounts of components shown in Table 1 are based on "mass %" as active ingredients.

[0368] The preparation of the dispersion composition was carried out as follows. (1) Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, octyldodecanol, Glycine soya (soybean) oil, butylparaben and tocopherol are mixed and heated at 75-80°C to form a homogenous mixture, then cooled to room temperature and retinol is introduced to obtain a homogenous core-forming composition. (2) Water, agar, and alginate are mixed and heated at 75-80° C. to form a homogeneous shell-forming composition. (3) The homogeneous core-forming composition and the homogeneous shell-forming composition are co-extruded to form capsules as multiple dispersed phases. (4) Prepare the continuous phase by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. (5) The dispersed phase is mixed with the continuous phase to prepare a dispersion.

[0369] [evaluation] (Thermal and photostability) Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was filled into a transparent container and stored at a temperature of 55° C. for 2 weeks or under a temperature of 55° C. using Suntest CPS (Toyo Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd., 765 W / m 2 ) at room temperature for 24 hours under UV irradiation. After storage, each of the compositions was homogenized with a homogenizer at 15,000 rpm for 10 minutes to break capsules in the composition and prepare samples for HPLC analysis. The remaining percentages (%) of retinol and ascorbic acid after storage were measured by HPLC and calculated as a function of the control percentage (stored at 4°C for 2 weeks) measured by HPLC. The remaining percentages (%) of retinol and ascorbic acid calculated in this way for each composition were evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. - Heat stability (2 weeks at 55℃) Good (OK): 90 or more NG: Less than 90 - Light stability (stored in sunlight for 24 hours) Good: 75 or higher Poor: Less than 75

[0370] (Dispersion and color stability) Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was filled into a glass bottle, and each of the glass bottles was kept at a temperature of 55° C. for two months.

[0371] Each vial was then inspected by visual observation for dispersion and color stability. For dispersion stability, the samples were inspected for whether the dispersion (capsules) were uniformly dispersed in the composition. For color stability, the samples were inspected for color development. These characteristics were then evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria: - Dispersion stability Good: The capsules were uniformly dispersed in the composition. Poor: Capsules were floating or settling in the composition. - Color occurrence Good: No color change or slight color change to light brown. Poor: The color had changed to brown.

[0372] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0373] [Table 1A]

[0374] [Table 1B]

[0375] The composition of Example 1 containing the above-described components (a) to (d) maintained a stable dispersed form even under light exposure and at high temperatures without the dispersed phase floating up or precipitating, and was able to maintain the retinoid therein at a sufficient residual rate.

[0376] On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 1 not containing component (c) was unable to maintain a sufficient residual rate of component (a) at high temperatures.

[0377] The composition of Comparative Example 2 not containing component (b) was unable to maintain component (a) at a sufficient residual rate under UV light irradiation.

[0378] The composition of Comparative Example 3 not containing component (d) was unable to maintain a dispersed form, and capsules floated in the composition.

Claims

1. 1. A dispersion composition comprising a continuous phase and a plurality of dispersed phases, (a) at least one retinoid; (b) at least one compound capable of providing a solution having a transmittance of 10% or less for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along an optical path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution; (c) at least one hydrophilic antioxidant other than component (b); (d) at least one cationic polymer; A composition comprising:

2. (a) The composition of claim 1, wherein the retinoid is present in the dispersed phase.

3. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the compound, (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant, and (d) the cationic polymer are present in a continuous phase.

4. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein: (a) the retinoid is retinol.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) retinoid in the composition is within the range of 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (b) compound is selected from polyphenols.

7. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (b) compound in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant is selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbate salts, and combinations thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (c) the hydrophilic antioxidant in the composition is within the range of 1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (d) the cationic polymer is selected from cationic polysaccharides.

11. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (d) the cationic polymer in the composition is within the range of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the continuous phase is an aqueous continuous phase.

13. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the dispersed phase comprises capsules.

14. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the dispersed phase in the composition is from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous materials.