Water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition having water resistance and face washability
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023546132
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-01-28
- Filing Date
- 2022-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-28
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-01-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing water-in-oil makeup products with high pigment content are difficult to wash off and cause skin issues, leading to impaired cleansing properties and skin damage from double cleansing.
A water-in-oil makeup composition comprising isostearic acid, pigment-grade powder, and a specific hydrophobic emulsifier, which enhances water resistance and allows easy removal with an alkaline pH aqueous solution.
The composition provides excellent water resistance and facial cleansing properties, allowing easy removal with a single wash and maintaining skin health.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] This application claims priority to Korean Patent Application No. 10-2021-0012626 filed on January 28, 2021, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety in the specification and drawings.
[0002] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition, more particularly to a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition that is excellent in water resistance and, at the same time, excellent in face washability. [Background technology]
[0003] Makeup products are used to hide skin imperfections and create an even skin tone. These makeup products generally contain a high content of pigments to produce skin color, and are generally manufactured as W / O (water in oil) emulsions that have excellent adhesion to the skin and good makeup durability.
[0004] However, W / O type cosmetics containing a high content of pigments have the inconvenience of being difficult to wash off. In particular, pigment powders, which are solid in nature, are not only felt as foreign matter to the skin, but also clog pores, causing trouble and are very noticeable, so improving the washability (cleanability) of makeup products is very important. Therefore, when using makeup products, it is generally necessary to wash the face once and then wash it again, which is troublesome.
[0005] Recently, various studies have examined the condition of the skin after double cleansing, and it has been found that double cleansing not only causes damage to the barrier due to strong friction with the skin twice, but also impairs the skin's moisturizing effect, causing dryness.
[0006] For this reason, in Korean Patent Registration No. 1342231, a powder whose surface properties change depending on the external pH conditions by coating the powder surface with a pH-sensitive polymer was developed to have water resistance in water with a neutral pH but easy to remove with soapy water with a high pH. However, this technology is limited to improving the cleansing properties of the powder itself, and has the drawback that it is not easy to remove the entire cosmetic film.
[0007] As described above, there is currently a strong demand for the development of makeup products that are both water-resistant when used and easy to wash off (facial washability) so that they can be easily removed even with just the first facial wash. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition that is excellent in water resistance and at the same time excellent in face washability (cleaning ability), more specifically, to provide a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition that is easy to remove even with a primary face wash. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] In order to achieve the above technical objectives, one aspect of the present invention provides a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition, comprising isostearic acid, a pigment-grade powder, an emulsifier having an HLB (Hydrophile Lipophile Balance, a value that indicates the balance between the hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity of an emulsifier) of more than 0 and not more than 8, and a remaining amount of water, the composition being more easily washed off from an aqueous solution of alkaline pH than from an aqueous solution of neutral pH.
[0010] The inventors of the present application have found that water-in-oil (W / O) makeup products having the above-mentioned composition are not easily removed by water or sweat, have long-lasting makeup, and are easily removed by just one facial wash due to their improved face washability, and have completed the present invention based on this finding. In particular, the inventors have found that when a cosmetic product containing a high content of pigment-grade powder has the above-mentioned composition, it has a far more excellent effect of improving face washability than other compositions, and have completed the present invention.
[0011] As shown in FIG. 1, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has excellent water resistance in ordinary tap water or a neutral aqueous solution having a pH of about 7±0.5, but has the property of being easily washed off by an alkaline solution, for example, a solution having a pH of 9 to 11.
[0012] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composition of the present invention, the isostearic acid is contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, the pigment-grade powder is contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and the emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 0 and not more than 8 is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The composition of the present invention contains isostearic acid as one of its components, and the inventors have surprisingly discovered that in formulations containing high amounts of pigment-grade powder, isostearic acid is far more effective than other solid fatty acids in achieving the desired effect.
[0014] The isostearic acid may be contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 3 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 40% by weight, and further preferably 7 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the isostearic acid is too low, the desired effect is not obtained.
[0015] The compositions of the present invention contain, as one component for compositional purposes, a pigment-grade powder for skin tone correction.
[0016] Preferably, such pigment grade powders may be titanium dioxide, talc, tin oxide, or mixtures thereof, the particle size of which is pigment grade, as described below. More preferably, the pigment grade powder of the present invention is titanium dioxide.
[0017] In the present invention, the term "pigment-grade powder" means a powder having a particle size of 200 nm to 1000 nm, preferably 250 nm to 900 nm, and more preferably 300 nm to 800 nm.
[0018] Powders with particle sizes of less than 100 nm or less than 200 nm are primarily used as UV blocking components by absorbing UV light, but have weak properties of scattering visible light and are relatively transparent, so it may be difficult to expect any change in skin tone when applied to the skin.
[0019] That is, in the present invention, a pigment-grade powder is a powder that scatters light in the visible light range and causes a change in skin tone when applied to the skin, and can be used as a colorant or pigment.
[0020] More preferably, the pigment grade powder contained in the composition of the present invention is a lipoamino acid coated pigment grade powder, in particular a lipoamino acid coated TiO2 powder, which retains its shape at neutral pH and aids in water resistance, while at high pH the coating is affected and aids in washability.
[0021] Typically, pigment-grade powders may be surface-treated to enhance oil dispersibility. Examples of substances used for such surface treatments include, but are not limited to, dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, fatty acids, and lipoamino acids.
[0022] The inventors have evaluated the cleansing properties of various pigment-grade powders and found that pigment-grade powders coated with lipoamino acids have oil-dispersing properties in neutral water (pH 7), but have water-dispersing properties in alkaline water such as soapy water (e.g., pH 10) as the coating material is dissociated. This is because lipoamino acids change their surface properties under alkaline conditions, unlike dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, fatty acids, etc., which are used to coat powders. These properties allow the composition to be difficult to remove with water and sweat, but to have improved cleansing properties with soapy water. In addition, since it is difficult to feel the cleansing effect in powders with a particle size of less than 100 nm, which is transparent and invisible to the naked eye, when the particle size of the powder is pigment-grade, it is more suitable for powders that cause a cloudy phenomenon when applied to the skin, and may be even more ideal for makeup products.
[0023] In the present invention, the lipoamino acid according to the present invention may be a group consisting of palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, palmitoyl isoleucine, capryloyl glycine, dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, cholesteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate and phytosteryl / decyl tetradecyl myristoyl methyl-β-alaninate, or a mixture thereof, and is preferably palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof.
[0024] In the present invention, the pigment-grade powder coated with lipoamino acid may be contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the pigment-grade powder coated with lipoamino acid may be contained in an amount of 3 to 40% by weight, more preferably, 5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably, 7 to 20% by weight. If the content of the pigment-grade powder coated with lipoamino acid is too low, the effect is small, and if the content is too high, the powder content in the formulation is too high, making it difficult to maintain stability, making the feeling of use too thick and thick, and there is a risk of cloudiness occurring.
[0025] The composition of the present invention may further contain other powders in addition to the pigment-grade powder coated with lipoamino acid, for example, talc, tin oxide, mica, silica, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), etc., within the scope of the present invention.
[0026] The composition of the present invention further comprises an emulsifier for forming a water-in-oil type (W / O type), and in particular, comprises an emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 0 and not more than 8. Preferably, the emulsifier contained in the composition of the present invention has an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, more preferably 6 or less.
[0027] In one embodiment of the present invention, the emulsifier may be contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0028] In the present invention, the emulsifier may be, for example, sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, and sorbitan olivate; glycerin fatty acid esters such as glycerol monostearate and glycerol monooleate; polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils such as polyoxyethylene (POE)(5) hydrogenated castor oil, POE(7.5) hydrogenated castor oil, and POE(10) hydrogenated castor oil; polyethylene glycol (PEG)-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl ... Polyether-modified silicone surfactants such as diethyl dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / polypropylene glycol (PPG)-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 22 butyl ether dimethicone, and dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer; dimethicone polyols; polyglyceryl fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate copolymer, and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate; or mixtures thereof may be used.
[0029] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a monovalent ion salt as a stabilizer. The stabilizer according to the present invention plays a role in improving the stability of the W / O type emulsion composition.
[0030] As such a monovalent ion salt, sodium chloride can be used.
[0031] Generally, divalent ion salts such as magnesium sulfate and calcium chloride can be used as stabilizers for W / O type emulsifiers, but since divalent ion salts may form insoluble precipitates with the components contained in the composition of the present invention, it is more preferable to use monovalent ion salts in order not to impair the effects of the present invention. However, the present invention is not limited to such theoretical mechanisms.
[0032] Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of divalent ions such as ZnO, etc. For example, the composition according to the present invention contains 0 to 5 wt % of divalent ions such as ZnO based on the total weight of the composition, or preferably 0 to 3 wt %, more preferably 0 to 1 wt %, and even more preferably no divalent ions at all.
[0033] In addition, the water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain ingredients that are generally used in cosmetic compositions in the art, within the scope of the present invention, such as emollients (skin softeners), (organic) ultraviolet screening agents, moisturizers, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, etc.
[0034] In the present invention, the emollient may be, for example, an ester-based oil such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, hexyl laurate, distearyl malate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, or glyceryl triethylhexanoate; or a cyclopentasiloxane such as cyclopentasiloxane. Examples of oils that can be used include silicone oils such as isohexadecane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, cyclomethicone, and dimethicone; hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, squalane, mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; and vegetable oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, macadamia oil, shea butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, and cacao butter, but are not limited to these.
[0035] In the present invention, the UV blocking agent may be, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, octyl triazone, menthyl anthranilate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone sulfonic acid, 3,4-methylbenzylidene camphor, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, homosalate, drometrizole trisiloxane, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl triazone, DEA-methoxycinnamate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, benzophenone-8, TEA-salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, etc.
[0036] In the present invention, the moisturizing agent may be, but is not limited to, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, betaine, trehalose, glycerin, sorbitol, propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octanediol, or the like.
[0037] In the present invention, the thickener may be bentone, dextrin palmitate, polyamide-8, or the like, but is not limited thereto.
[0038] In the present invention, the preservative may be, but is not limited to, phenoxyethanol, paraben, paraoxybenzoic acid ester, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, salicylic acid, benzalkonium chloride, trichlorocarbanilide, or the like.
[0039] All of the components described in the present invention preferably do not exceed the maximum usage values stipulated in the relevant laws, regulations, and standards of Korea, China, the United States, Europe, Japan, etc. (e.g., Cosmetic Safety Standards (Korea), Cosmetic Safety Technical Standards (China), Hygienic Standards (China)), etc. That is, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably contains the components according to the present invention within the content limits permitted by the relevant laws, regulations, and standards of each country. Effect of the Invention
[0040] The present invention provides a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition that is excellent in both water resistance and face washability. More specifically, the present invention provides a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition that is not removed by water or sweat, has long-lasting makeup, and is easily removed by just the first face wash. [Brief description of the drawings]
[0041] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 shows the results of comparing the effects of an example composition according to the present invention with an existing comparative composition. [Diagram 2] FIG. 2 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the water resistance of compositions #1 to #5. [Diagram 3] FIG. 3 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the ease of face washability of compositions #1 to #5. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the water resistance of compositions #11 to #15. [Diagram 5] FIG. 5 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the ease of face washability of compositions #11 to #15 and #1. [Figure 6] FIG. 6 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the water resistance of compositions #6 to #10. [Figure 7] FIG. 7 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the ease of face washability of compositions #6 to #10. [Figure 8] FIG. 8 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the water resistance of compositions #16 to #20. [Figure 9] FIG. 9 shows the results of an experiment evaluating the ease of face washability of compositions #16 to #20. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0042] In the following, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples in order to better understand the present invention. However, the examples according to the present invention can be modified into various other forms, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the following examples. The examples of the present invention are provided to more completely explain the present invention to those having average knowledge in the field to which the present invention belongs.
[0043] Experiment 1. Experiment based on fatty acid content A makeup product for correcting skin tone having the formulation and contents shown in Table 1 below was prepared using the following method.
[0044] Item A was weighed out according to the content and heated to 70-80°C until completely dissolved. Item B was completely dispersed and heated to 70-80°C. Item A was gradually added to item B while emulsifying for 5 minutes and then cooled to 30°C.
[0045] In Table 1 below, Pigment X is a mixture of titanium dioxide powder (LP-TR 10, manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.) coated with three mixed substances of aluminum hydroxy, lipoamino acid, and palmitic acid, red iron oxide (OTS RED R-516, manufactured by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), yellow iron oxide (OTS-2 YELLOW LLXILO, manufactured by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and black iron oxide (OTS-2 BLACK BL-100, manufactured by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) The mixture weight ratio is 93.482:1.080:5.400:0.038 (coated TiO2:red iron oxide:yellow iron oxide:black iron oxide). The lipoamino acid is a mixture of palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate. According to the analysis results provided by the company, the most frequent particle size of the coated titanium dioxide powder is 357 nm, and the median value (D 50 The analytical method used was to disperse the particles in ethanol using a laser particle size analyzer.
[0046] [Table 1]
[0047] The water resistance was evaluated by the following method.
[0048] 25 mg of the cosmetic composition was applied to a black rubber plate. Tap water was run over the applied area for 15 seconds or more to check the degree to which the composition was washed away. The results are shown in Figure 1.
[0049] The ease of washing was evaluated by the following method.
[0050] 25 mg of the cosmetic composition was applied to a black rubber plate. 4 to 5 drops of a 20% diluted solution of cleansing foam were applied thereon, thoroughly rubbed, and then rinsed with running water to compare the degree of washing off. The cleansing foam used here was Lacvert BRI:D Moist Purifying Cleansing Foam (product name) (manufactured by LG Household & Health Care Co., Ltd., Korea), which is commercially available in the market, and the pH of the 20% diluted solution was 9.5. The results are shown in Figure 2.
[0051] As shown in Figure 1, all of the compositions of the present invention exhibit excellent water resistance and are difficult to wash away with tap water. That is, even if they contain fatty acids, the water resistance of the W / O formulation was not reduced.
[0052] In contrast, it was confirmed that makeup cosmetics containing 1% by weight or more of fatty acid were washed off more easily from the evaluation results of the ease of washing, as shown in Figure 2. This is presumably because fatty acid causes a soap reaction under high pH conditions such as soapy water, which is useful for washing the face, but the present invention is not limited to such a theoretical mechanism.
[0053] Experiment 2. Experiment with different types of fatty acids Make-up cosmetics were produced in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the water resistance and ease of washing were evaluated.
[0054] [Table 2]
[0055] Water resistance was evaluated in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 3. Ease of washing the face was evaluated in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 4.
[0056] The results of the experiment showed that all the fatty acids showed excellent water resistance, regardless of the type of fatty acid. However, in terms of ease of washing, it was confirmed that isostearic acid (#14) was far more effective than other solid fatty acids.
[0057] Experiment 3. Experiment with different types of pigment-grade powder Make-up cosmetics were produced in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the water resistance and ease of washing were evaluated.
[0058] In Table 3, Pigment X was the same as Pigment X used in Table 1.
[0059] In Table 3, Pigment Y is a mixture of four components: titanium dioxide powder coated with aluminum hydroxyl and dimethicone (Si TiO2CR50, manufactured by Fuji Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., Korea), red iron oxide, black iron oxide, and yellow iron oxide. The mixture ratio is 93.482:1.080:5.4:0.038. The particle size of the powder was 250 nm. For reference, Si TiO2CR50 is a powder in which TiO2CR50 is coated with silicon, while CR50 is the most common pigment-grade powder and has a particle size of 250 nm.
[0060] [Table 3]
[0061] Water resistance was evaluated in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 6. Ease of washing the face was evaluated in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 7.
[0062] As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the pigments showed high water resistance and cleansability regardless of the type of pigment, but that the cleansability was further improved when lipoamino acid coating powder was included (for example, when the content was 5% by weight or more, in the case of sample #8, pigment X was used at 6% by weight and the content of lipoamino acid coating powder in pigment X was approximately 93.4%).
[0063] Experiment 4. Effects of divalent ions Make-up cosmetics were produced in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the water resistance, ease of washing and stability were evaluated.
[0064] [Table 4]
[0065] Water resistance was evaluated in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 7. Furthermore, ease of washing the face was evaluated in the same manner as in Experiment 1, and the results are shown in Figure 8.
[0066] Stability was also evaluated and the results are summarized in Table 5 below.
[0067] [Table 5]
[0068] (In Table 5 above, ○ indicates excellent stability, △ indicates medium stability, and X indicates poor stability.)
[0069] As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that #16 to #20 all had excellent water resistance and were easy to wash. In particular, from the aspect of ease of washing, #20, which does not contain any divalent ions, was the most effective compared to #16 to #19, which contain divalent ions.
[0070] More specifically, the results of the experiment on #16~#20 showed that #16~#19, which contain divalent ions, were slightly inferior in cleansing power. The divalent ions could only be removed by rubbing with a 20% cleansing foam solution for a long time, and even after being removed, a small amount of ions remained. However, #20 could be easily and completely removed, and was also stable.
Claims
1. A water-in-oil cosmetic composition comprising: The emulsion contains isostearic acid, a pigment-grade powder, and an emulsifier having an HLB of more than 0 and not more than 8, The water-in-oil cosmetic composition, wherein the pigment-grade powder is a pigment-grade powder coated with lipoamino acid.
2. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the isostearic acid is contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and the pigment-grade powder is contained in an amount of 1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
3. 2. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipoamino acid is palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof.
4. 2. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the pigment-grade powder is TiO2 coated with lipoamino acid.
5. 2. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment-grade powder has a powder particle size of 200 nm to 1000 nm.
6. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the composition further comprises a monovalent ion salt.
7. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the monovalent ion salt is sodium chloride.
8. 2. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises ZnO in an amount of 5% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition.