Woven fabric and manufacturing method thereof

JP2025042472AActive Publication Date: 2025-03-27MIYAKE DESIGN JIMUSHO
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2023149513
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-09-14
Publication Date
2025-03-27
Estimated Expiration
2043-09-14

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

【0011】 本発明によれば、より精緻なヒダ構造を形成するための構造を内蔵した織布及びその製造方法を提供することができる。したがって、プリーツマシンにより生地にヒダを形成する工程を省略することができる。また、例えばプリーツの形成のための構造と色や柄とを生地に組み込む場合には、プリーツと色、柄とを精緻に合わせることができる。

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Abstract

To provide a woven fabric having a built-in structure for forming a more precise pleat structure, and to provide a method for manufacturing the woven fabric.SOLUTION: In a woven fabric having a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns crossing the plurality of warp yarns, the plurality of warp yarns are made of a resin, a part of the plurality of warp yarns is a shrinkable warp yarn, and the shrinkable warp yarn has a front side jump part which jumps over a predetermined number of weft yarns adjacent to each other in a length direction from the front side, and a back side jump part which jumps over a predetermined number of weft yarns adjacent to each other in the length direction from the back side, repeatedly.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 2
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Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for making the same. [Background technology]

[0002] The inventors proposed in Patent Document 1 (JP Patent Publication No. 2015-218426) a woven fabric incorporating a structure for forming the decoration itself, and a manufacturing method thereof. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0003] [Patent Document 1] JP 2015-218426 A Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0004] The inventors conducted a process of trial and error to further develop the technology of Patent Document 1, and succeeded in forming a fine pleated structure with a woven fabric without using a pleating machine.

[0005] Therefore, the present invention provides a woven fabric incorporating a structure for forming a more precise pleat structure, and a method for manufacturing the same. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] That is, one aspect of the present invention is A woven fabric having a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns intersecting the plurality of warp yarns, the plurality of warp yarns are made of resin; A part of the plurality of warp yarns is a shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable warp yarn has, in its length direction, a front side jumping portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns from the front side, and a back side jumping portion that jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns from the back side in the length direction, repeatedly; The present invention provides a woven fabric characterized by: The woven fabric of the present invention may have a structure in which the weft threads and the warp threads are interchanged.

[0007] In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the weft yarns arranged in the valley portions that are overlapped by the front side jump portion have a color scheme different from that of the other adjacent weft yarns.

[0008] In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that a predetermined number of wefts skipped by the front side skip portion have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent wefts.

[0009] Another aspect of the present invention is The fabric includes a front fabric and a back fabric made of the woven fabric described above, a valley portion and a peak portion formed by the front side jump portion and the back side jump portion of the front side fabric overlap with a valley portion and a peak portion formed by the front side jump portion and the back side jump portion of the back side fabric; The present invention provides a woven fabric characterized by:

[0010] Another aspect of the present invention is A step of weaving a fabric using a plurality of warp threads and a plurality of weft threads intersecting with the plurality of warp threads in a preset pattern; applying a specific treatment to the woven fabric; A method for producing a woven fabric comprising the steps of: the plurality of warp yarns are made of resin; A part of the plurality of warp yarns is a shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable warp yarn has a front side jumping portion which jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns in the length direction from the front side, and a back side jumping portion which jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns in the length direction from the back side; The present invention provides a method for producing a woven fabric, comprising the steps of: In the method for producing a woven fabric of the present invention, the woven fabric may have a structure in which the weft threads and the warp threads are interchanged. Effect of the Invention

[0011] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven fabric incorporating a structure for forming a more precise pleat structure and a manufacturing method thereof. Therefore, it is possible to omit the process of forming pleats in the fabric using a pleating machine. Also, for example, when the structure for forming pleats and the color or pattern are incorporated into the fabric, the pleats can be precisely matched with the color or pattern. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0012] [Figure 1] 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the structure of a woven fabric 1 according to a representative embodiment of the present invention. [Diagram 2] 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a fold structure of a woven fabric 1. FIG. [Diagram 3] 2A and 2B are a front view and a side view showing an example of pleats formed in a woven fabric 1. FIG. [Figure 4] 4 is a side view showing another example of pleats formed in the woven fabric 1. FIG. [Diagram 5] 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a method for incorporating a pattern into a woven fabric 1. FIG. [Figure 6] 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a fold structure of a woven fabric 1 having a double structure. [Figure 7] 1A and 1B are a front view and a side view illustrating an example of pleats formed in a woven fabric 1 having a double structure. [Figure 8] 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a method for incorporating a pattern into a woven fabric 1 having a double structure. [Figure 9] 10 is a schematic diagram showing another example of a method for incorporating a pattern into a woven fabric 1 having a double structure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0013] A woven fabric and a manufacturing method thereof according to a representative embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings. Note that since the drawings are intended to conceptually explain the present invention, the dimensions, ratios, and numbers may be exaggerated or simplified as necessary for ease of understanding, and the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0014] 1. Basic structure of woven fabric 1 The basic structure of the woven fabric 1 will be described with reference to Fig. 1. Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the structure of the woven fabric 1.

[0015] The woven fabric 1 is a fabric made of a woven material. That is, the woven fabric 1 has a plurality of warp threads 10 and a plurality of weft threads 20 intersecting with the plurality of warp threads 10. The plurality of warp threads 10 is a general term for normal warp threads (other warp threads) 11 and shrinkable warp threads 12, which will be described later, and are made of resin. The plurality of weft threads 20 is a general term for weft threads 21, which will be described later, and are also made of resin. The fabric constituting the woven fabric 1 may be single-ply or double-ply.

[0016] The plurality of warp threads 10 include normal warp threads 11 and shrinkable warp threads 12 . Here, the normal warp threads 11 may be chemical fibers or resin fibers, and may be made of a resin material such as polyester.

[0017] The shrinkable warp threads 12 shrink in the length direction to a greater extent than the normal warp threads 11 when a specific treatment such as heating is applied, and can also be called heat-shrinkable threads. For example, the shrinkable warp threads 12 are composed of a core and a covering thread wound around the core. The core may be made of a material such as polyurethane that shrinks significantly in the length direction when heated to a certain temperature. The covering threads may be made of the same material as the normal warp threads 11, such as polyester.

[0018] The shrinkable warp yarns 12 in the woven fabric 1 have, in the length direction, front side jumping portions 12A that jump over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns 21 from the front side of the woven fabric 1. The front side jumping portions 12A are exposed on the front side of the woven fabric 1. Further, the shrinkable warp yarns 12 have back jumping parts 12B in the length direction that jump over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns 21 from the back side of the woven fabric 1. The back jumping parts 12B are hidden on the back side of the woven fabric 1. The front and back jumps 12A, 12B are arranged according to a preset pattern, as will be described below.

[0019] The weft thread 21 may be made of natural fiber, chemical fiber, or resin fiber, for example, polyester, cotton, nylon, aluminum, glass fiber, or other polyester.

[0020] In such a woven fabric 1, by applying a specific treatment such as heating, the shrinkable warp threads 12 shrink in the length direction to a greater extent than the normal warp threads 11. The heating means here includes applying an iron or steam to the woven fabric 1, and bathing the woven fabric 1 in hot water. As a result, the shrinkable warp yarns 12 shrink significantly at the front and back jump sections 12A, 12B, and the woven fabric 1 as a whole shrinks in the warp direction. Therefore, by adjusting the width (distance) of the front and back jump sections 12A, 12B (for example, 1 to 5 mm, preferably 2 to 3 mm), the tension of the shrinkage can be suitably controlled. In this way, a fine pleated structure is formed in the woven fabric 1 according to a preset pattern. In this regard, if the width of the front and back jump sections 12A, 12B is smaller than 1 mm, pleats are not formed in the first place, and if this width is larger than 5 mm, a loop shape is formed and sharp pleats are not formed.

[0021] Specific examples of materials constituting the woven fabric 1 are given below. As the normal warp threads 11, threads of various specifications (such as thickness) can be used within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention, for example, polyester 50 to 150 (preferably 70 to 80) denier (36 filaments) can be used. In addition, polyester wound marlon (sizing processing) can be used as the shrinkable warp threads 12. The shrinkable warp threads 12 can be 50 to 150 denier. The ratio (number) of normal warp threads 11 and shrinkable warp threads 12 may be 1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 30%.

[0022] Furthermore, various types of yarns can be used as the weft yarn 21 without impairing the effects of the present invention, for example, 30 denier to 3000 denier can be used. The weft yarn 21 can be woven at a density of 50 to 120 threads (preferably 80 to 90 threads) per cm. Fabric cannot be made unless the thread count is between 50 and 120. In other words, if the thread count is less than 50 threads per cm, the fabric becomes coarse and loses its regular shape, making it difficult to make fabric, while if the thread count is more than 120 threads per cm, the fabric becomes too dense and hard, losing its flexibility and workability, making it difficult to make fabric that can actually be used. In order to more reliably obtain the effects of the present invention, it is preferable to use weft yarns of 50 to 300 denier and set the count at 80 to 90 threads.

[0023] 2. Forming pleats in woven fabric 1 Next, a method for forming a pleated pattern in the woven fabric 1 will be described. First, a method for forming pleats in a single layer of fabric will be described, and then a method for forming pleats in a double layer of fabric will be described.

[0024] (1) In order to form a mountain fold in the woven fabric 1, it is sufficient to provide the back side jump portion 12B in the woven fabric 1. In order to form a valley fold in the woven fabric 1, it is sufficient to provide the front side jump portion 12A in the woven fabric 1. Therefore, in order to form repeated mountain folds and valley folds (pleats) in the woven fabric 1, the woven fabric 1 may be provided with the front and back skip portions 12A, 12B. In addition, in Figs. 2, 6, 8 and 9, mountain folds are represented by solid lines, and valley folds are represented by dashed lines.

[0025] Specifically, in the example shown in Fig. 2, mountain folds, valley folds, valley folds and mountain folds are repeatedly formed in the woven fabric 1. This allows pleats with recesses to be formed in the woven fabric 1, as shown in Fig. 3.

[0026] Furthermore, by repeatedly making mountain folds and valley folds in the woven fabric 1, it is possible to form pleats proceeding in one direction in the woven fabric 1, as exemplified in Fig. 4(A). In this example, it is sufficient to repeatedly provide the back side jump portion 12B and the front side jump portion 12A in this order in the woven fabric 1. Conversely, by repeatedly making valley folds and mountain folds in the woven fabric 1, pleats proceeding in the opposite direction to those in the example of Fig. 4(A), as shown in Fig. 4(B), can be formed in the woven fabric 1. In this example, it is sufficient to repeatedly provide the front side jump portion 12A and the back side jump portion 12B in this order in the woven fabric 1.

[0027] Furthermore, the size of the pleats themselves can be changed by changing the skip width of the front and back skip parts 12A, 12B. Also, the interval between the pleats can be changed by changing the interval between the adjacent front and back skip parts 12A, 12B. By combining these techniques, a variety of pleat patterns can be created.

[0028] Therefore, as described below, it is possible to form dense and colorful pleats in the woven fabric 1 without using a pleating machine. For example, dense pleats with a width of 1 mm to 30 mm can be formed with high productivity. It is also possible to obtain a woven fabric in which both narrow and wide dense pleats are mixed. Moreover, the position where the pleats are formed can be precisely controlled. In this regard, it is hardly realistic to accurately match the pleat position with the pattern position when using a pleating machine.

[0029] (2) The woven fabric (textile) described in (1) above can be layered to form a double layered woven fabric 1. To form the double layered woven fabric 1, two pieces of fabric may be layered, or one piece of fabric may be folded back at a preset location. The latter method can be applied to folded-back portions such as sleeves and hems.

[0030] Specifically, in the example shown in Fig. 6, a woven fabric similar to that in Fig. 2 (see Figs. 6(A) and 7(A1), (A2)) is prepared as the front fabric 3, and a woven fabric in which the mountain folds and valley folds are swapped from the woven fabric in Fig. 2 (see Figs. 6(B) and 7(B1), (B2)) is prepared as the back fabric 5. That is, in the back fabric 5, the front jump portion 12A and the back jump portion 12B are swapped with respect to the front fabric 3. When the front and back fabrics 3, 5 are overlapped, the mountain folds of the front fabric 3 correspond to the valley folds of the back fabric 5, and the valley folds of the front fabric 3 correspond to the mountain folds of the back fabric 5 (see FIG. 7(C)). Therefore, the mountain and valley folds are programmed so that the pleats of the front fabric 3 and the back fabric 5 interlock. This allows the pleated double woven fabric 1 to be made thinner.

[0031] To fold the front and back fabrics 3, 5 as a single piece of fabric at a preset location (designated by symbol X in FIG. 6(C)), the pattern of the front fabric 3 is switched to the pattern of the back fabric 5 at the folding location X. In order to impart a crease to the folded portion, a shrinkable yarn may be inserted into the folded portion of a portion of the weft yarn, and a skip portion in the weft direction may be provided.

[0032] 3. Forming a pattern on the valley fold on the front side of the woven fabric 1 In the woven fabric 1, the weft threads 21 corresponding to the part that is valley-folded and cannot be seen from the front side can be colored in a different color from the other adjacent weft threads 21. This allows different patterns to appear in the woven fabric 1 in a shrunken state and in a stretched state. A specific method will be described below.

[0033] (1) The case of a single-ply woven fabric 1 will be described. This corresponds to applying a predetermined color scheme to the woven fabric 1 illustrated in Figures 2 and 3 (applying a preset color to the weft yarn 21). As described above, in the shrunken woven fabric 1, the overlapping portion C (see FIG. 5(B)) formed by the valley fold is not visible from the front side. Since the valley fold is formed by the front side jump portion 12A, the overlapping portion C formed by the valley fold may be given a color scheme (including a pattern) different from that of the other portions.

[0034] In particular, from the viewpoint of providing a buffer or slack so that the hidden pattern is not exposed due to slight stretching of the woven fabric 1, it is preferable to apply a color scheme (including a pattern) different from that of the other parts to the parts C overlapping by the valley folds, the parts being a predetermined distance (for example, 1 to 2 mm, depending on the thickness of the fabric and the width of the pleats, etc.) from both ends. Alternatively, a predetermined number of weft threads 21 (parts marked with symbol B in Fig. 5(A), i.e., the gray parts) skipped by the front side skip portion 12A may be colored in a different color from the other adjacent weft threads 21 (parts marked with symbol A in Fig. 5(A)).

[0035] This allows different patterns to appear in the woven fabric 1 in a shrunken state and in the stretched state. In the illustrated example, the woven fabric 1 in a shrunken state is plain white on the front side (see FIG. 3(A)) and has a black striped pattern (not shown) on the back side, whereas the woven fabric 1 in a stretched state has a black striped pattern on the front side (see FIG. 5(A)) and an elongated striped pattern on the back side (not shown). Of course, the striped pattern given here is merely an example, and the present invention is not limited to this. This allows designers greater creative freedom.

[0036] (2) Next, a woven fabric 1 made of a double layer of fabric will be described. This corresponds to applying a predetermined color scheme to the woven fabric 1 illustrated in Figures 6 and 7 (applying a preset color to the weft yarn 21), and here two patterns illustrated in Figures 8 and 9 will be described.

[0037] In either pattern, in the shrunk state, the front of the front fabric 3 is plain white, and the back of the front fabric 3 has a black stripe (see Fig. 8(A) and Fig. 9(A)). The formation of such patterns was explained in detail in (1) above. Therefore, the following description will focus on the back fabric 5.

[0038] The first pattern is a case where, in a shrunken state, the front of the back fabric 5 is plain white and the back of the back fabric 5 has a black stripe (see FIG. 8(B)). As described above, in the back fabric 5, the front jump portion 12A and the back jump portion 12B are interchanged with respect to the front fabric 3. In the back fabric 5, the overlapping portion C due to the valley fold is colored in a different color (e.g., black) from the other portions (e.g., white), so that in the shrunk state, the front of the back fabric 5 is plain white and the back of the back fabric 5 has a black border (see FIG. 8(B)). In particular, from the viewpoint of providing a buffer or slack so that the hidden pattern is not exposed due to some stretching of the woven fabric 1, it is preferable that a predetermined number of wefts 21 (the portion marked with the symbol B in FIG. 8(B), i.e., the gray portion) skipped over by the front jump portion 12A have a different color from the other adjacent wefts 21 (the portion marked with the symbol A in FIG. 8(B)).

[0039] Therefore, when the back fabric 5 is layered on the back of the front fabric 3, the patterns on the backs match, resulting in a neat and tidy appearance in terms of design.

[0040] The second pattern is when the front side of the back fabric 5 is striped and the back side of the back fabric 5 is plain white (see FIG. 9(B)). In this case, the front jump section 12A and the back jump section 12B of the back fabric 5 are interchanged with respect to the front fabric 3, but the back fabric 5 has the same color scheme as the front fabric 3. As a result, when the back fabric 5 is layered on the back side of the front fabric 3, the pattern on the back side of the front fabric 3 and the pattern on the back side of the back fabric 5 are different, allowing the user to enjoy the difference in design.

[0041] Of course, these two patterns can also be combined as appropriate, expanding the creative possibilities for designers.

[0042] 4. Manufacturing method of woven fabric 1 Next, a method for producing the woven fabric 1 will be described.

[0043] The manufacturing method of the woven fabric 1 includes a step of weaving a fabric with a plurality of warp threads 10 and a plurality of weft threads 20 in a preset pattern (weaving step), and a step of applying a specific treatment to the woven fabric. Here, heating is used as the specific treatment, so the latter step is called the heating step. However, the specific treatment may be any treatment that can shrink the shrinkable warp yarns 12 included in the plurality of warp yarns 10, and other treatments such as immersion in a chemical may also be used.

[0044] In the weaving process, warp threads 10 and weft threads 20 are fed to a loom and woven. As long as the woven fabric 1 is woven with warp threads 10 and weft threads 20, the weaving method may be of any kind, such as a plain weave, a twill weave (diagonal weave), a satin weave, or a variation of the three basic weaves of plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, a double weave (warp double weave, weft double weave), a multiple weave with more than double weaves, or a patterned weave (jacquard weave).

[0045] At this time, the front side jump section 12A and the back side jump section 12B are provided in the shrinkable warp yarn 12 in a preset pattern. Also, the color scheme of the weft yarn 20 belonging to the part that will become a valley fold in the later heating process is set to be different from the color scheme of the weft yarn 20 in the adjacent part. Also, before the warp yarn 10 and the weft yarn 20 are hung on the loom, necessary yarn dyeing, etc. is performed.

[0046] In addition, in the case of a woven fabric 1 consisting of a double layer of fabric, in which the front fabric 3 and the back fabric 5 are knitted together as a single piece of fabric, the patterns and color schemes of the warp threads 10 and weft threads 20 to be applied to the front fabric 3 and the back fabric 5, respectively, are preset.

[0047] Next, in the heating step, steam is applied to the woven fabric 1 to shrink the shrinkable warp yarns 12, thereby forming pleats in the fabric 1. The heating conditions for the woven fabric 1 can be adjusted appropriately depending on the specifications of the woven fabric 1. For example, steam at 100° C. to 180° C. may be applied to the woven fabric 1 for about 1 second to 1 minute, preferably 2 to 3 seconds to 30 seconds.

[0048] The woven fabric of the present invention can be made using yarns of various colors, can be inverted midway to produce different colors, textures, hardness and patterns on the front and back, and can be given a variety of colors, textures, hardness and patterns that differ depending on the region, and these dense and colorful woven fabrics can be used for a variety of purposes, such as clothing, bags, interior materials such as wall hangings, shades and curtains, decorative materials, building materials, frames, housings, packages, etc.

[0049] Although a representative embodiment of the present invention has been described above, the present invention is not limited to such an embodiment, and various design modifications are possible, and all such modified design aspects are included in the technical scope of the present invention. For example, the woven fabric 1 may have a structure in which the weft threads 20 and the warp threads 10 are interchanged. In other words, threads of various colors and materials may be stretched as the warp threads 10, and normal threads (e.g., polyester) and shrinkable threads may be woven as the weft threads 20. In this case, by forming front side jump sections and back side jump sections in the weft threads, the woven fabric may be heated to shrink the fabric in the horizontal direction. This method has good production efficiency and is suitable for mass production. [Explanation of symbols]

[0050] 1. Woven fabric 11 Normal warp threads (other warp threads) 12 Shrinkable warp threads 12A Front jump section 12B Back jump section 21 Weft

Claims

1. A woven fabric having a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns intersecting the plurality of warp yarns, the plurality of warp yarns are made of resin; A part of the plurality of warp yarns is a shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable warp yarn has, in its length direction, a front side jumping portion which jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns from the front side, and a back side jumping portion which jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns from the back side in the length direction, repeatedly; A woven fabric characterized by:

2. The weft yarns arranged in the valleys that are overlapped by the front side jump portion have a color scheme different from that of the other adjacent weft yarns; The woven fabric of claim 1 ,

3. a predetermined number of weft yarns skipped by the front side skip portion have a color scheme different from that of other adjacent weft yarns; The woven fabric of claim 1 ,

4. The weft yarn and the warp yarn are interchanged with each other. The woven fabric of claim 1 ,

5. The fabric comprises a front fabric and a back fabric made of the woven fabric according to claim 1, a valley portion and a peak portion formed by the front side jump portion and the back side jump portion of the front side fabric overlap with a valley portion and a peak portion formed by the front side jump portion and the back side jump portion of the back side fabric; A woven fabric characterized by:

6. A step of weaving a fabric using a plurality of warp threads and a plurality of weft threads intersecting with the plurality of warp threads in a preset pattern; applying a specific treatment to the woven fabric; A method for producing a woven fabric comprising the steps of: the plurality of warp yarns are made of resin; A part of the plurality of warp yarns is a shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable warp yarn has a front side jumping portion which jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns in the length direction from the front side, and a back side jumping portion which jumps over a predetermined number of adjacent weft yarns in the length direction from the back side; A method for producing a woven fabric, comprising the steps of:

7. The weft yarn and the warp yarn are interchanged with each other. The method for producing the woven fabric according to claim 1,

Citation Information

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