Stretched woven fabric

Abstract

To provide a warp double stretched woven fabric containing warp and weft composed of non-elastic spun yarns containing cotton which has good stretchability, feeling, form stability, and sputtering resistance.SOLUTION: A warp double stretched woven fabric contains warp and weft composed of non-elastic spun yarns containing cotton, wherein the stretched woven fabric is subjected to liquid ammonia treatment and resin processing treatment, and has an elongation ratio in a weft direction of 15% or more, and an elongation recovery rate after one hour of 80% or more. Preferably, the warp and the weft are made of 100% cotton, and more preferably, the weft is a composite yarn formed by doubling and twisting an S-twist single yarn and an S-twist single yarn as Z twist in a twist count of 100% to 300% based on twist count of the S-twist single yarn or is a composite yarn formed by doubling and twisting a Z-twist single yarn and a Z-twist single yarn as S twist in a twist count of 100% to 300% based on twist count of the Z-twist single yarn.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a warp double weave stretch fabric including warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, and the stretch fabric has good stretchability, texture, shape stability and anti-sputtering properties. [Background technology]

[0002] Stretch woven fabrics having stretchability have been used in clothing such as working wear.

[0003] Patent Document 1 (JP 2022-183505 A) describes a stretch fabric that includes a spun yarn for the warp and a composite false-twisted yarn for the weft, wherein the composite false-twisted yarn is in the form of a composite yarn of polyester false-twisted yarn A and polyester false-twisted yarn B that have been false-twisted separately in the same direction, and wherein the composite false-twisted yarn has an entanglement number of 30 or more / m, a torque twist number of 40 T / m or more, and a crimp rate of 30 or more.

[0004] The stretch fabric of Patent Document 1 uses polyester fibers, and has problems with texture.

[0005] Patent Document 2 (JP 2018-172812 A) describes a stretch cotton fabric comprising a tightly twisted yarn containing 50% or more by mass of cotton fiber, the twist coefficient of the tightly twisted yarn being 4 to 10, the fabric not containing elastic fiber, the elongation rate of the fabric being 10% or more in both the warp and weft directions, and the elongation recovery rate of the fabric being 70% or more in both the warp and weft directions.

[0006] The stretch cotton fabric in Patent Document 2 uses tightly twisted yarn, and so has a stiff feel and is uncomfortable to wear. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] Patent Publication No. 2022-183505 [Patent Document 2] JP 2018-172812 A Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] The present invention aims to provide a warp double weave stretch fabric including warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, the stretch fabric having good stretchability, texture, shape stability and anti-sputtering properties. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] As a result of extensive research, the inventors have discovered that a stretch fabric having good stretchability, texture, shape stability and anti-sputtering properties can be obtained by subjecting a double-woven warp stretch fabric containing warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton to liquid ammonia treatment and resin processing treatment, and by setting the elongation rate in the weft direction and the elongation recovery rate after one hour to specific values, thus completing the present invention.

[0010] The present invention is a warp double weave stretch fabric including warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, and is based on the following technology.

[0011] (1) A warp double weave stretch fabric comprising warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, the stretch fabric being treated with liquid ammonia and resin, and having an elongation rate in the weft direction of 15% or more and an elongation recovery rate after one hour of 80% or more.

[0012] (2) The stretch fabric of (1) wherein the warp and weft threads are made of 100% cotton.

[0013] (3) The stretch fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the weft yarn is a composite yarn obtained by twisting an S-twisted single yarn and an S-twisted single yarn into a Z-twist with a twist number that is 100 to 300% of the twist number of the S-twisted single yarn, or a composite yarn obtained by twisting a Z-twisted single yarn and a Z-twisted single yarn into an S-twist with a twist number that is 100 to 300% of the twist number of the Z-twisted single yarn.

[0014] (4) The stretch fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the warp double weave is a warp double weave consisting of a 2 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 2 left weave. Effect of the Invention

[0015] According to the present invention, a stretch fabric having good stretchability, texture, shape stability and anti-sputtering properties can be provided. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0016] The stretch fabric of the present invention is a warp double weave stretch fabric comprising warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, and is manufactured through liquid ammonia treatment and resin processing treatment, and the stretch rate of the stretch fabric in the weft direction is 15% or more and the stretch recovery rate after 1 hour is 80% or more.

[0017] Liquid ammonia treatment allows the fabric to have a stable shape in a contracted state and to return to its original contracted shape when stretched. Resin processing improves the slipperiness of the weave at the bonding points, while crosslinking cellulose improves shape stability and stretch-back properties.

[0018] The method for treating the stretch fabric of the present invention will now be described in detail.

[0019] <Mercerizing> Mercerization is a process for increasing the luster of cellulosic fibers, especially cotton fibers, to give them a silk-like luster. Alkaline agents used in mercerization include aqueous solutions of caustic soda, caustic potash, lithium hydroxide, etc., and liquid ammonia, which may also be used in combination with sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, sodium chloride, etc.

[0020] When mercerizing cellulosic fibers with these alkaline agents, the temperature of the alkaline agent is set to -10 to 100°C depending on the purpose. As the processing method, a batch process, a hank mercerizing method, a continuous mercerizing method, etc. can be used.

[0021] <Relaxation processing> The relaxation treatment is a treatment in which a woven fabric using twisted yarn is relaxed in a tension-free state in high-temperature water to allow the twisted yarn torque to be exerted and the woven fabric to shrink sufficiently, and although there are no particular limitations on the conditions for the relaxation treatment, the temperature is usually 80 to 100°C and the treatment time is usually about 1 to 30 minutes. Note that the relaxation treatment is not essential and can be omitted.

[0022] <Liquid ammonia treatment> The relaxed fabric is treated with liquid ammonia in a tension-free state. The liquid ammonia treatment can be carried out, for example, by immersing the fiber structure in liquid ammonia maintained at a temperature of -33°C or lower.

[0023] Cellulose in its natural state has a cellulose I crystal structure, and mercerization produces a cellulose II crystal structure. When these are immersed in liquid ammonia, the liquid ammonia penetrates not only the amorphous parts of the cellulose fibers but also the crystalline parts, breaking the hydrogen bonds and causing the entire fiber to swell. When the liquid ammonia is then evaporated by heating, new hydrogen bonds are formed. This produces cellulose III in the crystalline regions, and the crystals are fixed in a swollen form.

[0024] As the impregnation method, a method of immersing the fiber structure in a liquid ammonia bath, a method of spraying or coating the fiber structure with liquid ammonia, etc. Generally, the immersion time in liquid ammonia can be about 5 to 80 seconds, preferably about 10 to 60 seconds.

[0025] <Hot water treatment> The liquid ammonia-treated fiber structure is then subjected to a hot water treatment in a tension-free relaxed state. The hot water treatment is usually carried out at a temperature within a range of about 100 to about 150°C, preferably about 110 to about 140°C. This hot water treatment can be carried out using any device capable of hot water treatment at high pressure, such as a high-pressure jet dyeing machine or a high-pressure drum dyeing machine. The hot water treatment is not essential and can be omitted.

[0026] <Resin processing> Examples of resin finishing agents include aldehydes such as formaldehyde, glyoxal, and glutaraldehyde, epoxy compounds such as diglycidyl ether, polycarboxylic acids such as tetrabutane carboxylic acid, and cellulose-reactive methylol compounds such as dimethylol urea, trimethylol melamine, dimethylol ethylene urea, and dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea. Of these, glyoxal is preferred.

[0027] The amount of the resin finishing agent added is 3 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 8% by weight, in terms of solid content concentration, relative to the fabric to be resin finished.

[0028] A catalyst can be added to the resin finishing agent to enhance the reaction activity between the resin finishing agent and cellulose and to perform the resin finishing quickly. As the catalyst, a catalyst usually used in resin finishing can be used, for example, borofluoride compounds such as ammonium borofluoride, sodium borofluoride, potassium borofluoride, and zinc borofluoride, neutral metal salt catalysts such as magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, and magnesium nitrate, and inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfurous acid, hyposulfurous acid, and boric acid. If necessary, organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and maleic acid can be used in combination with these catalysts as promoters.

[0029] If necessary, auxiliary agents such as glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, etc. can be added to the resin finishing agent in order to facilitate the reaction between cellulose and resin. In addition, softeners for adjusting the texture, formalin catchers for reducing the concentration of free formalin, etc. can be added.

[0030] In the present invention, the method for applying the resin finishing agent to the woven fabric can be a normal pad-dry method, or a method using a gas phase reaction with formaldehyde, etc. For example, in the pad-dry method, the woven fabric is immersed in a preparation containing the resin finishing agent, and then squeezed at a squeezing rate of 50 to 120%, and dried at an atmospheric temperature of about 120°C.

[0031] Subsequently, the resin finishing agent and cellulose are heat-treated at a temperature of 120 to 180° C. for 1 to 10 minutes to generate crosslinks, thereby obtaining the stretch fabric of the present invention.

[0032] Furthermore, the stretch woven fabric of the present invention has an elongation rate in the weft direction of 15% or more and an elongation recovery rate after one hour of 80% or more.

[0033] By setting the elongation rate in the weft direction and the elongation recovery rate after one hour within the above ranges, a stretch fabric with good stretchability and texture can be obtained, and by using such a stretch fabric, it is possible to obtain clothing, particularly working wear, which is easy to move in and has a slim fit and a high level of design.

[0034] <Non-elastic spun yarn material> The material of the inelastic spun yarn used for the warp and weft of the present invention contains at least cotton, and can also be blended with natural fibers such as hemp, wool, and silk, and inelastic chemical fibers such as polyester, acrylic, nylon, rayon, polynosic, cupra, and lyocell.

[0035] From the viewpoint of the feel when made into clothing, it is preferable to use natural fibers, and it is more preferable to use spun yarns made of 100% cotton for both the warp and weft.

[0036] The warp and weft yarns are preferably single or two-ply yarns having an English count of 10 to 60s.

[0037] <Weft> In the stretch woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use a composite yarn for the weft in which an S-twisted single yarn and an S-twisted single yarn are twisted together into a Z-twist with a twist number that is 100 to 300% of the twist number of the S-twisted single yarn, or a composite yarn in which a Z-twisted single yarn and a Z-twisted single yarn are twisted together into an S-twist with a twist number that is 100 to 300% of the twist number of the Z-twisted single yarn.

[0038] The composite yarn as described above has a spring structure, and by using such a composite yarn as a weft, good stretchability in the weft direction can be obtained.

[0039] <Woven structure> The stretch fabric of the present invention is a warp double weave. The weave is preferably a warp double weave consisting of a 2 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 2 left weave, but a four-way twill weave, a three-way twill weave, or a satin weave can also be used.

[0040] The warp density is preferably 80 to 150 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the weft density is preferably 40 to 90 threads / inch on the grey machine. EXAMPLES

[0041] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[0042] <Example 1> A double warp weave fabric consisting of a 2 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 2 left weave was obtained using a 100% cotton warp yarn with a British count of 30s and a 100% cotton weft yarn with a British count of 40 / 2s (a composite yarn made by twisting a Z-twist single yarn and a Z-twist single yarn together into an S-twist with a twist count of 260% of the twist count of the Z-twist single yarn).The warp density was 125 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft density was 58 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 146cm.

[0043] The obtained fabric Mercerizing: Immerse in a 20% caustic soda solution and process for 60 seconds while pulling in the width direction with an air pressure of about 5 kgf (constant load method). Liquid ammonia treatment: After immersion in -30°C liquid ammonia for approximately 2 seconds, cylinder drying at 150°C x 70m / min Resin processing: Glyoxal resin (solid concentration 7% by weight) is pad-dried and cured at 160°C for 2 minutes. The fabric was processed in this order to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0044] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, shape stability, and anti-sputtering properties of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 20%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 83%, the shape stability (W&W performance) was L1: 3.5 grade, L10: 2.6 grade, and the anti-sputtering property (Kaken method) was a penetration rate of 0%.

[0045] The various properties of the stretch fabric of Example 1 are shown below as reference values. Recovery rate after 24 hours (JIS L1096): 91% Recovery rate after 24 hours (RIQL method): 98.5% Residual formalin value (JIS L1041 acetylacetone method): 35 ppm Slip (JIS L1096B method / 117.6N): Vertical 1.1mm / Horizontal 1.6mm Tensile strength (JIS L1096A method): Vertical 804N / Horizontal 315N Tear strength (JIS L1096D method): Vertical 2185cN / Horizontal 1790cN Pilling (JIS L1076A-ICI): Surface 4.5 grade / Back 4.5 grade Bending resistance (JIS L1096 Gurley method): Vertical 22.16mN, Horizontal 6.22mN Breathability (JIS L1096): 25.9 cm 3 / cm 2 ·Seconds Fabric thickness: 0.41mm Dimensional change rate (JIS L 1096F2 method, after tumble L10 times): Shrinkage rate: Vertical -2.9%, Horizontal -2.7%

[0046] <Example 2> A double warp weave fabric consisting of a 2 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 2 left weave was obtained using a 100% cotton warp yarn with a British count of 34s and a 100% cotton weft yarn with a British count of 40 / 2s (a composite yarn made by twisting a Z-twist single yarn and a Z-twist single yarn together into an S-twist with a twist number of 260% of the twist number of the Z-twist single yarn).The warp density was 135 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft density was 58 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 150cm.

[0047] The obtained fabric Mercerizing: Immerse in a 20% caustic soda solution and process for 60 seconds while pulling in the width direction with an air pressure of about 5 kgf (constant load method). Liquid ammonia treatment: After immersion in -30°C liquid ammonia for approximately 2 seconds, cylinder drying at 150°C x 70m / min Resin processing: Glyoxal resin (solid concentration 7% by weight) is pad-dried and cured at 160°C for 2 minutes. The fabric was processed in this order to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0048] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, shape stability, and anti-sputtering properties of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 15%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 85%, the shape stability (W&W performance) was L1: grade 3, L10: grade 2.5, and the anti-sputtering property (Kaken method) was a penetration rate of 0%.

[0049] <Example 3> A double warp fabric consisting of a 2 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 2 left weave was obtained using a 100% cotton warp yarn with a British count of 34s and a 100% cotton weft yarn with a British count of 40 / 2s (a composite yarn made by twisting a Z-twist single yarn and a Z-twist single yarn together into an S-twist with a twist count of 260% of the twist count of the Z-twist single yarn).The warp density was 135 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft density was 58 / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 150cm.

[0050] The obtained fabric Mercerizing: Immerse in a 20% caustic soda solution and process for 60 seconds while pulling in the width direction with an air pressure of about 5 kgf (constant load method). Liquid ammonia treatment: After immersion in -30°C liquid ammonia for approximately 2 seconds, cylinder drying at 150°C x 70m / min Resin processing: Glyoxal resin (solid concentration 5% by weight) is pad-dried and cured at 160°C for 2 minutes. The fabric was processed in this order to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0051] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, shape stability, and anti-sputtering properties of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 15%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 80%, the shape stability (W&W performance) was L1: grade 3, L10: grade 2.5, and the anti-sputtering property (Kaken method) was a penetration rate of 0%.

[0052] <Comparative Example 1> A double warp weave fabric consisting of a 3 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 3 left weave was produced using 100% cotton, 30s English count warp yarn and 100% cotton, 20s English count single-strand strong twist yarn as the weft. The warp density was 125 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft density was 58 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 130cm.

[0053] The obtained fabric Mercerizing: Immerse in a 20% caustic soda solution and process for 60 seconds while pulling in the width direction with an air pressure of about 5 kgf (constant load method). Liquid ammonia treatment: After immersion in -30°C liquid ammonia for approximately 2 seconds, cylinder drying at 150°C x 70m / min Resin processing: Glyoxal resin (solid concentration 7% by weight) is pad-dried and cured at 160°C for 2 minutes. The fabric was processed in this order to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0054] The elongation rate in the weft direction, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour, shape stability, and anti-sputtering properties of the obtained stretch woven fabric were measured. The elongation rate in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 25%, the elongation recovery rate after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 45%, the shape stability (W&W performance) was L1: 3.5 grade, L10: 2.5 grade, and the anti-sputtering property (Kaken method) was a penetration rate of 0%.

[0055] <Comparative Example 2> A 100% cotton, 30s English count warp yarn and a 100% cotton, 20s English count single-strand hard-twist weft yarn were used to produce a 2 / 1 warp double-weave fabric. The warp density was 125 threads / inch on the grey machine, the weft density was 58 threads / inch on the grey machine, and the finished effective fabric width was 130cm.

[0056] The obtained fabric Mercerizing: Immerse in a 20% caustic soda solution and process for 60 seconds while pulling in the width direction with an air pressure of about 5 kgf (constant load method). Liquid ammonia treatment: After immersion in -30°C liquid ammonia for approximately 2 seconds, cylinder drying at 150°C x 70m / min Resin processing: Glyoxal resin (solid concentration 7% by weight) is pad-dried and cured at 160°C for 2 minutes. The fabric was processed in this order to obtain a stretch fabric.

[0057] The stretch fabric obtained was measured for elongation in the weft direction, elongation recovery after 1 hour, shape stability, and anti-sputtering properties. The elongation in the weft direction (JIS L1096) was 14%, and the elongation recovery after 1 hour (JIS L1096B method) was 50%. The shape stability (W&W performance) was L1: 3.5 grade, L10: 2.5 grade, and the anti-sputtering property (Kaken method) had a penetration rate of 0%. [Industrial Applicability]

[0058] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a warp double weave stretch fabric containing warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, which has excellent stretchability, texture, shape stability, and anti-sputtering properties, and is of extremely high practical value.

Claims

1. The stretch fabric is a warp double weave stretch fabric including warp and weft yarns made of inelastic spun yarns containing cotton, the stretch fabric being treated with liquid ammonia and resin, and having an elongation rate in the weft direction of 15% or more and an elongation recovery rate after one hour of 80% or more.

2. 2. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are made of 100% cotton.

3. The stretch fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the weft yarn is a composite yarn obtained by twisting an S-twisted single yarn and an S-twisted single yarn into a Z-twist with a twist number that is 100 to 300% of the twist number of the S-twisted single yarn, or a composite yarn obtained by twisting a Z-twisted single yarn and a Z-twisted single yarn into an S-twist with a twist number that is 100 to 300% of the twist number of the Z-twisted single yarn.

4. 4. The stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp double weave is a warp double weave consisting of a 2 / 1 left weave and a 1 / 2 left weave.