Creamy moisturizing cosmetic composition in a water releasing emulsion

Abstract

The cosmetic composition in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase comprises at least one polyglyceryl ester, glutamic acid or derivatives thereof, at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, at least one oil, water, and optionally one or more additives. The composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters. The creamy emulsion exhibits disruption and release of the aqueous phase upon application of the composition by rubbing onto a substrate. The composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5°C to about 45°C for 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, where the stability is manifested by the absence of separation of the aqueous and oily phases and / or the maintenance of rheological properties over time when not rubbed onto a substrate.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] Related Applications This application claims the benefit and priority of U.S. Patent Application No. 17 / 560,328, filed December 23, 2021, entitled "CREAMY HYDRATING COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN A WATER RELEASE EMULSION" and French Patent Application Publication No. 2201205, filed February 11, 2022, each of which is incorporated by reference in its entirety.

[0002] Field The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and in particular to creamy water-in-oil emulsions that exhibit fast water breakup during application. [Background technology]

[0003] Consumers are seeking cosmetic compositions that are formulated with sustainable, natural and / or environmentally friendly materials, and that do not use or minimize the use of non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and petroleum-based ingredients) and ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment. In some instances, consumers are seeking compositions, such as moisturizing and hydrating products, that provide moisturizing and hydrating benefits along with a pleasant texture, for example, moisturizing and hydrating products that include a high water content in an inverse or water-in-oil emulsion. Although a variety of products are available that include at least some of the desired characteristics that consumers are looking for, formulations that include a high water content in an inverse or water-in-oil emulsion have been shown to be unstable in conventional use and storage due to limitations imposed by the emulsifier system used to keep the water phase in the oil phase. Thus, despite their otherwise desirable properties, such products may not meet the quality expectations of customers when the product breaks down (i.e., releases the water phase from the oil phase and transforms from a viscous cream state to a liquid state) before application. Here, the product loses its thick and creamy texture, becomes thin and liquid, or leaves behind a pool of water and / or oil phase in the container. Thus, there is a need for products that provide the environmental and organoleptic attributes desired by customers and that maintain texture stability during storage and under normal use conditions. Summary of the Invention

[0004] In order to address the deficiencies in the art of moisturizing and hydrating products, especially those with high aqueous phase content, the inventors provide a composition with a unique fast water breakup from emulsion that quickly releases large internal aqueous phase during application.The composition provides a substantially thick creamy initial texture that transitions to a thin texture, where the creamy emulsion is stable and does not undergo separation under freeze-thaw and high temperature conditions, making it desirable from a quality standpoint.Throughout this disclosure, the compositions exemplified herein include various embodiments that are silicone-free high-quality inverse emulsion products that can retain high aqueous phase content of more than 75% and have a texture that is favorable to consumers.In various embodiments, the composition is formulated with sustainable, natural and / or environmentally friendly materials, especially without or with minimal use of non-renewable ingredients and ingredients that have negative environmental impacts.

[0005] According to various embodiments, the present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase, the creamy emulsion comprising: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; v. Water; and vi. optionally one or more additives.

[0006] In various embodiments, the composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters. In various embodiments, the creamy emulsion exhibits disruption and release of the aqueous phase upon application of the composition by rubbing onto a substrate, and the composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5° C. to about 45° C. over a period of 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about −20° C. to about 25° C., when not rubbed onto a substrate, as evidenced by the absence of separation of the aqueous and oil phases.

[0007] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamic acid diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olive oil glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (Avocado) oil, squalane, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethyl hexanediol, and combinations thereof.

[0008] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester is present from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition.

[0009] In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or derivative thereof is present at about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or derivative thereof can be in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. In embodiments where the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.

[0010] In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present at about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.

[0011] In some embodiments, the at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23% by weight of the composition.

[0012] In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in an amount within the range of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition, such that, under a given application tension, when the composition is rubbed onto a substrate, the creamy emulsion exhibits more rapid breakdown and release of the aqueous phase as the amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol increases within the range.

[0013] In some embodiments, water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, is present at about 75% to about 95% by weight of the composition, and if present, at least one moisturizer is present at about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition.

[0014] In some embodiments, the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from about 75% to about 95% by weight based on the weight of the composition; (b) an oil phase comprising at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments, glutamic acid or a derivative thereof, and at least one oil. In some embodiments, the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester ranging from about 45 to about 70. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof can be in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. In embodiments where the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.

[0015] In some embodiments, the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase components selected from the group consisting of oil soluble actives, emollients, silicone oils, and combinations thereof, and one or both of the water phase and oil phase optionally comprises one or more of optional additives selected from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

[0016] According to some embodiments, the present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition that is: i. the at least one polyglyceryl ester is present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition; ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present in at least about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition; iv. the at least one oil is present in about 0.1% to about 23% by weight of the composition; v. water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, is present in an amount of from about 65% to about 95% by weight of the composition; vi. Optionally, one or more additives are selected from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

[0017] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamic acid diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olive oil glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethyl hexanediol, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) Butter, Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Squalane, and combinations thereof.

[0018] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, the glutamic acid or derivatives thereof comprise tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol, the at least one oil comprises Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, squalane, the water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent or combination thereof comprises water, and the at least one moisturizer is present at about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition, all amounts being by weight based on total weight.

[0019] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35%, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8%, at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol present at about 1.6% to about 5%, at least one oil comprises Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, and squalane, each present at about 0.1% to about 23%; water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, comprises water, and the at least one moisturizer comprises glycerin present at about 5%. In some embodiments, the composition further comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide green, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene (beta-carotene or other provitamin A carotenoids), retinol, citric acid, and combinations thereof.

[0020] According to various embodiments, the present disclosure also provides a method for applying a water-breaking cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the method includes the steps of selecting a cosmetic composition in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase, the creamy emulsion comprising: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; v. water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof; applying the composition to the keratinous substrate by contacting and rubbing in a circular motion, whereby the creamy emulsion exhibits breakage and release of the aqueous phase.

[0021] In some embodiments of the method, a cosmetic composition is provided, wherein the composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters, and wherein the composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5° C. to about 45° C. for 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about −20° C. to about 25° C., when not rubbed against a substrate, as evidenced by the absence of separation between the aqueous and oil phases.

[0022] In some embodiments of the method, a cosmetic composition is provided in which at least one polyglyceryl ester is present at about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition; glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present at about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight; at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present at about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, and at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23% by weight; and water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, is present at about 65% to about 95% by weight, all amounts being by weight and based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments of the method, a cosmetic composition is provided in which the composition optionally comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

[0023] In some embodiments of the method, a cosmetic composition is provided in which at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35% by weight of the composition; glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8% by weight; at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol present at about 1.6% to about 5% by weight; at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23% by weight, and water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, comprises water present at about 65% to about 95% by weight and glycerin present at about 5% by weight. In some embodiments of the method, the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide green, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene (beta-carotene or other provitamin A carotenoids), retinol, citric acid, and combinations thereof, based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments of the method, the cosmetic composition is a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; and (b) an oil phase comprising at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid or its derivatives, and at least one oil. In some embodiments of the method, a cosmetic composition is provided having a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester ranging from about 45 to about 70, and the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase components selected from the group consisting of silicone oil, oil-soluble actives, emollients, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof can be in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. In embodiments where the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.

[0024] According to various embodiments, the present disclosure also provides a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase. In some embodiments, the method includes providing ingredients excluding mineral and organic UV actives, wherein the provided ingredients are: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; v. water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof; vi. optionally one or more additives;

[0025] The method includes the step of mixing the provided ingredients to provide (a) an aqueous phase including water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, and (b) an oil phase including at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments, glutamic acid or a derivative thereof, and at least one oil. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof can be in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. In embodiments where the glutamic acid includes tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.

[0026] In some embodiments of the method, the cosmetic composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5° C. to about 45° C. for 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about −20° C. to about 25° C., when not rubbed against a substrate, as evidenced by the absence of separation between the aqueous and oil phases.

[0027] In some embodiments of the method, the composition formed comprises a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase and (b) an oil phase; (a) the aqueous phase comprises water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, and (b) the oil phase comprises at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and at least one oil, wherein the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase components selected from the group consisting of an oil-soluble active ingredient, an emollient, a silicone oil, and combinations thereof, wherein the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester ranging from about 45 to about 70. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof can be in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. In embodiments where the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.

[0028] In some embodiments of the method, the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is provided in an amount within the range of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition, such that, under a given application tension, when the composition is rubbed onto a substrate, the creamy emulsion exhibits more rapid breakdown and release of the aqueous phase as the amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol increases within the range.

[0029] These and other aspects of the present invention are set forth in the accompanying claims and are described in further detail in the detailed description of the invention.

[0030] This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with general inventive concepts, but is in no way intended to limit the scope of the invention. Indeed, the invention described herein is broader than, and is not limited by, the exemplary embodiments described herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning.

[0031] It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0032] The term "break" as used herein refers to the phenomenon of release of the aqueous phase from the oil phase in an inverse (water-in-oil) emulsion and the transformation of the emulsion from a viscous and creamy state to a liquid state. Breakage can be demonstrated and measured based on one or more of the degree of release of the aqueous phase from the emulsion detected visually, or measuring the amount of the aqueous phase released, and the change in the fluid properties of the emulsion detected either visually / tactically as a change from a solid, such as a cream, to a liquid, or detected by rheological measurements. The term "break point" refers to the measurable point at which breakage occurs upon application of a rubbing force, and in some cases, upon application of a tension that can be measured using a test instrument. As described herein, the break point of the composition of the present invention can be selected based on the amount of at least one diol present, with increasing amounts of diol resulting in faster breakage under the same rubbing or tension application compared to lower amounts of diol.

[0033] The terms "stable" and "stability" with respect to the emulsion structure of the compositions of the present invention refer to a composition that remains in a creamy emulsion state, does not phase separate as indicated by significant fluid droplet formation or pooling of separated phases (e.g., during storage and without application of force or tension by rubbing against a substrate), and / or maintains rheological properties over time. In some embodiments, stable or stabilization may include no or minimal formation of droplets indicating release of the internal aqueous phase from the emulsion. Stability is evidenced by one or both of visual inspection and direct measurement of viscosity. In various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention remain stable for a period of at least 8 weeks (about 2 months) at temperatures ranging from about 5°C to about 45°C, inclusive of the endpoints, and may remain stable for longer, e.g., at least 3 months, or at least 4 months, or at least 6 months, up to about 3 years, or any value, range, or subrange therebetween. Illustrated embodiments of the compositions of the present invention shown in the Examples herein exhibited stability for 8 weeks at each of 5°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C. Such exemplified compositions also exhibited stability to 10 freeze-thaw cycles at -20°C / 25°C.

[0034] The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure is in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase, comprising at least one polyglyceryl ester, glutamic acid, or derivatives thereof, at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, at least one oil, water, and optionally one or more additives. Water-in-oil emulsions are sometimes referred to as inverse emulsions. The composition is formulated as a "green" or more "natural-based" composition compared to comparable compositions that contain mineral oil and / or fossil-derived ingredients and may leave an unpleasant oily and greasy skin feel after use. The composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters. The creamy emulsion shows that it is broken when the composition is applied by rubbing onto a substrate. The composition shows stability at temperatures ranging from about 5°C to about 45°C for 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, where the stability is manifested by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases when not rubbed onto a substrate. The composition according to the present disclosure is a water-in-oil emulsion having a creamy texture.

[0035] The present inventors have developed the compositions of the present invention to address certain deficiencies in the art, such as consumer needs for compositions formulated with sustainable, natural and / or environmentally friendly materials, and in particular, compositions that do not use or minimize the use of non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and petroleum-based ingredients) and ingredients that have a negative environmental impact (e.g., EDTA, which mobilizes heavy metals). In some embodiments, the compositions are free or essentially free of non-renewable ingredients and ingredients that have a negative environmental impact, and in some specific embodiments, exclude or are essentially free of ingredients selected from the group consisting of parabens, phthalates, cyclomethicone, fragrance silicones, mineral oils, synthetic dyes, gelling agents, sulfates, polyquaterniums, microplastics, EDTA, silicone oils, mineral UV filters, organic UV filters, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions may contain only nominal amounts of petroleum-based ingredients, or may be free of petroleum-based ingredients.

[0036] The inventors have also sought to address deficiencies in the art related to the instability of inverse emulsions, especially those with a large aqueous phase, which are prone to phase separation during typical storage periods or when exposed to freeze-thaw cycles. In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include a polyglyceryl ester emulsifier.

[0037] Typically used in lightweight, low viscosity cosmetic formulations (as opposed to thick, creamy emulsions), Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate is used and recommended at levels greater than 2%.

[0038] The inventors have shown that in compositions using polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers, for example, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, at less than 2%, far less than the amount recommended or typically used, these compositions stably retain essentially all of the large internal phase without separation or pooling, but with reduced stability over time. The inventors have unexpectedly provided compositions that provide sustained stability as shown in the examples by including glutamic acid or its derivatives. Furthermore, the inventors have unexpectedly provided compositions that allow for the point at which water transition is regulated at a given tension by including and controlling the amount of glycol, in some embodiments diol, and as exemplified by using propanediol. As shown in the examples, by increasing the weight percent amount of propanediol in the composition, sudden breakage during application occurs sooner and more rapidly (at a particular tension) than when the same composition with a lower amount of glycol is applied.

[0039] Thus, the inventors have demonstrated that the compositions of the present invention form robust emulsions that exhibit freeze / thaw stability and long-term (up to 8 weeks) storage stability while retaining the ability to break down when rubbed onto a substrate such as the skin. Comparative compositions that do not include the components of the compositions of the present invention disclosed herein do not meet tests of material stability such as freeze / thaw and storage stability, as well as tests of water breaking down when rubbed onto a substrate.

[0040] Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier According to the present disclosure, embodiments of the composition include at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier. In some embodiments, the composition includes two or more polyglyceryl esters.

[0041] The term "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" or "HLB" refers to an empirical expression relating to the relationship between the hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups of an emulsifier. This term is well known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (Pub: ICI Americas Inc., 1984) and US2006 / 0217283,

[0053] .

[0042] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier may have an HLB of about 10 or less than about 10, in some embodiments, in a range including about 2.5 to about 10, or about 2.5 to about 9.5, or about 3 to about 9. In some examples, the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier has an HLB of about 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, to about 9.9 (including increments of about 0.1 therebetween). In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier may have an HLB of about 10 or greater. In some embodiments, the composition excludes emulsifiers having an HLB of about 10, or greater than about 10, up to about 15, or greater than about 15, where the composition avoids, does not include, or is essentially free of emulsifiers having an HLB of about 10 or greater than about 10. In some particular embodiments, the composition excludes polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers having an HLB of about 10. In some embodiments, the composition excludes polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers having an HLB greater than 10, or in the range of greater than 10 to about 15, or greater than about 15.

[0043] In various embodiments, the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 decaterate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprylate ... caprylate), Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 laurate, Polyglyceryl-2 oleate, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate, Methylglucose, Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Isostearate Polyglyceryl-4, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and combinations thereof.

[0044] In some embodiments, suitable polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 polystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyglyceryl ester ... Polyglyceryl-6 triglyceride, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, and combinations thereof.

[0045] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof.

[0046] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0047] In some embodiments, suitable polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers include polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, myristyl ester, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate ... In one embodiment, the polyglyceryl emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 phosphate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, and combinations thereof, wherein the polyglyceryl emulsifier has an HLB of about 10 or greater than about 10. In some such embodiments, the composition excludes a polyglyceryl ester emulsifier selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, and combinations thereof.

[0048] In various embodiments, each of the at least one polyglyceryl ester is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 10%, in some embodiments, about 0.1% to about 5%, in some embodiments, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.5%, or about 1.35%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises two or more polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers, the combination of which is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight based on the weight of the composition, and each of the two or more is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0049] In some representative examples, polyglyceryl ester coemulsifiers, including polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, may be present in the composition in the range of about 0.1% to about 1%, or at about 0.2%.

[0050] Thus, in various embodiments, each of the at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier is present in a composition according to the present disclosure at about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 to about 10 weight percent, including increments and ranges therebetween.

[0051] Glutamic acid or its derivatives According to the present disclosure, embodiments of the composition include at least one glutamic acid or a derivative thereof. In some embodiments, the composition includes more than glutamic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0052] In various embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamic acid diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olive oil glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] In some particular embodiments, the glutamic acid or derivative thereof comprises tetrasodium glutamic acid diacetate.

[0054] In various embodiments, glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the composition, or from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, in some embodiments from about 0.4% to about 1.2%, in some embodiments from about 0.4% to about 1%, in some embodiments from about 0.5% to about 0.9%, or about 0.8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight based on the weight of the composition, however, one of ordinary skill in the art will understand that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0055] Thus, in various embodiments, glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present in a composition according to the present disclosure at 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.10%, 0.20%, 0.30%, 0.40%, 0.50%, 0.60%, 0.70%, 0.80%, 0.90%, 1.0%, 2%, 3%, 4% to about 5% (including increments and ranges therebetween).

[0056] Cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol According to the present disclosure, the present composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol. In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is a diol, and in some particular embodiments, an alkane diol. In some embodiments, the present composition comprises more than one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol.

[0057] In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is a diol selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethyl hexanediol, and combinations thereof.

[0058] In some particular embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol.

[0059] In various embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition, in some embodiments from about 0.8% to about 8%, in some embodiments from about 1% to about 7%, in some embodiments from about 2% to about 5%, in some embodiments about 5%, or about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight based on the weight of the composition, however, one of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0060] Thus, in various embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, each one or combination thereof, is present in the composition according to the present disclosure at about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 to about 10 weight percent, including increments and ranges therebetween.

[0061] oil According to various embodiments, the composition comprises at least one oil. In some embodiments, the at least one oil is a water-immiscible oil. In some embodiments, the at least one oil may comprise two or more oils. In some embodiments, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of butter, wax, and hydrocarbon-based oils of plant or plant origin.

[0062] In some embodiments, the oil is squalane, parcelin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), hemisqualane, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleic acid, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, and 2-octyldodecyl succinate. -diethylhexyl, coglycerides, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicapryl maleate, caprylic / triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, avocado oil, aloe extract, jojoba oil, castor oil, fatty acids, oleic acid, stearic acid, fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoic acid esters, benzoic acid esters of C9 to C15 alcohols, alkanes, mineral oils, silicones, dimethylpolysiloxanes, ethers, polyoxypropylene butyl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, aryl alkyl benzoates, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, and any combination thereof. In some embodiments, the oil may be chosen from isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, coconut caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl adipate, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkanes, isododecane, undecane tridecane, dodecane, and combinations thereof.In some embodiments, silicone oils, synthetic oils, and petroleum-based oils are excluded. In some particular embodiments, the composition excludes mineral oils, silicone oils, petroleum-based oils, or combinations thereof.

[0063] According to various embodiments, the at least one oil is present at about 0.01% to about 20%, although one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0064] According to some embodiments, the composition may include at least one plant butter, the at least one butter being selected from the group consisting of butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuaçu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one butter has a melting point in the range of about 30°C to about 45°C.

[0065] In some embodiments, the at least one oil comprises at least one wax. In some particular embodiments, the at least one wax is selected from the group consisting of Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and combinations thereof.

[0066] In some embodiments, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, squalane, and combinations thereof.

[0067] In an exemplary embodiment, the at least one oil comprises a blend including Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, and squalane.

[0068] In some embodiments, the at least one oil may be present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 23%, or from about 1% to about 12%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof, by weight of the composition, however, one of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0069] In some embodiments, the amount of vegetable butter, if present in the composition, can be at least 1%, alternatively from about 1% to about 23%, alternatively from about 2% to about 9%, alternatively from about 3% to about 8%, alternatively from about 4% to about 7%, alternatively from about 5% to about 6%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof, by weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0070] In some embodiments, the amount of wax, if present in the composition, can be from about 0.05% to about 5%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or about 0.1%, by weight of the composition, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof, however, a person of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0071] Thus, any one or combination of oils is present in about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 weight percent, including increments and ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0072] water According to various embodiments, the composition comprises an aqueous phase present in the range of about 75% to about 95%, where the aqueous phase comprises water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer, or a solvent, or a combination thereof, at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, and optionally any suitable aqueous phase additives.

[0073] According to various embodiments, water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, is present in the composition. In some embodiments, water is present in a range of about 65% to about 95%, in some embodiments, about 60% to about 85%, in some embodiments, about 70% to about 80%, in some embodiments, about 70% to about 77%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will understand that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention. Thus, water is present in a range of about 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94 to about 95 weight percent (including increments and ranges therein and therebetween) based on the total weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0074] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and / or natural spring water or mineral water, such as: water of Vittel, water of the Vichy basin, water of Uriage, water of La Roche Posay, water of La Bourboule, water of Enghien-les-Bains, water of Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water of Neris-les-Bains, water of Allevar-les-Bains, water of Digne, water of Maizieres, water of Neyrac-les-Bains, water of Lons-le-Saunier, water of Eaux Bonnes, water of Rochefort, water of Saint Christau, water of Les Fumades, water of Tercis-les-Bains or water of Avene. The water phase may also comprise recreated spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, which recreate the characteristics of spring water.

[0075] The pH of the composition may be adjusted before mixing the oil phase with the aqueous phase, especially in the aqueous phase of the composition, to avoid practical difficulties in measuring pH in the aqueous phase inside a water-in-oil emulsion. In various embodiments, the pH is a physiologically acceptable pH. In some embodiments, the pH of the aqueous phase before emulsification may be adjusted to a pH in the range of about 5 to about 6 using a pH adjuster, such as by adding a base (organic or inorganic), for example, sodium hydroxide ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, for example, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, to the composition, or alternatively, by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, for example, citric acid.

[0076] Humectants and Solvents According to the present disclosure, the composition embodiment may include at least one humectant, at least one solvent, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the composition includes two or more humectants, two or more solvents, or a combination thereof. The humectant may be a polyol. In some embodiments, the humectant includes glycerin.

[0077] In some embodiments, suitable humectants usable in accordance with the present disclosure may be selected from one or more of, for example, glycerin, glycerol, glycols, such as caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols, polyols including monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers, such as monopropylene, dipropylene, and tripropylene glycol alkyl (C1-C4) ethers; squalane; triacetin; sugars, such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, pentaerythritol, inositol; pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); lactic acid; lithium chloride; acetamide MEA; sodium lactate; urea; dicyanamide; hyaluronic acid; aloe vera; honey; seaweed extracts; and combinations thereof.

[0078] In some embodiments, suitable solvents that may be used according to the present disclosure may be selected from monoalcohols and polyols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin.

[0079] In various embodiments, at least one humectant, solvent, or combination thereof is present in an amount of about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition, in some embodiments, about 2% to about 15% by weight, in some embodiments, about 3% to about 10% by weight, about 4% to about 8% by weight, in some embodiments, about 5% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the present composition comprises two or more humectants, solvents, or combinations thereof, which are present in the composition in an amount of about 1% to about 20% by weight, in some embodiments, about 5% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0080] Thus, in various embodiments, at least one humectant, solvent, or combination thereof is present in a composition according to the present disclosure from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 weight percent, including increments and ranges therebetween.

[0081] Optional Additives The composition may also contain at least one additive used in the cosmetic field that does not affect the properties of the composition according to the invention, such as fragrances, preservatives / antimicrobials (e.g., chlorphenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and caprylyl glycol); active substances (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone, vitamins, panthenol, tocopherol); oil-soluble active ingredients (e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E) and emollients; coloring materials / pigments; essential oils; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing agents, chelating agents or pH adjusters (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, EDTA, and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof. In some particular examples, the oil phase may further contain an oil-soluble active ingredient selected from the group consisting of vitamin E, vitamin A, beta-carotene, retinol, resveratrol, derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof. Also, in some particular examples, the aqueous phase may further comprise a water soluble active selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, niacinamide, derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.

[0082] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one additive selected from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof. In some particular embodiments, the composition may further include at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide green, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene (beta-carotene or other provitamin A carotenoids, or retinol), citric acid, and combinations thereof.

[0083] Although optional additives are shown as examples, it will be appreciated that any other components suitable for cosmetic use and known in the art for use in cosmetic compositions may be used.

[0084] According to various embodiments, the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, when present in a composition according to the present disclosure may be present in a range of about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight, in some embodiments, about 0.005% to about 0.01% by weight, in some embodiments, about 0.01% to about 0.1% by weight, in some embodiments, about 0.15% to about 5% by weight, in some embodiments, about 0.40% to about 4% by weight, in some embodiments, about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, in some embodiments, about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, in some embodiments, about 1% to about 2% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the total weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will understand that other ranges are within the scope of the present invention.

[0085] Thus, any one or combination of actives and additives may be present, each one or combination being from about 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.0, including increments and ranges therebetween. 2, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 weight percent.

[0086] The following examples according to the invention are given by way of illustration and not of a limiting nature. The names are chemical or INCI names. Unless otherwise stated, amounts are given therein as % by weight.

[0087] Working Example Example 1: Composition: Various representative embodiments of the present invention and comparative compositions are illustrated herein.

[0088] Table 1: Inventive compositions 1-2 and comparative compositions 1-3 [Table 1] TIFF2025500401000002.tif122140*Glutamic acid derivative is 47.5% active.

[0089] Comparative compositions 1-4 were used in the tests along with the inventive compositions as shown in the following examples, where Comparative Composition 1 has a different general formula, does not contain a polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, contains a different emulsifier, does not contain propanediol, and does not contain glutamate or derivatives. Compounds 2 and 3 have a base similar to inventive compositions 1 and 2, but do not contain glutamate or derivatives.

[0090] In preparing the composition examples of the present invention, the water phase (A) components are mixed separately from the oil phase (B) components, blended under heat, and then added in batches to the water phase and blended, after which the viscosity is measured.

[0091] In an exemplary embodiment according to the present disclosure, the composition includes polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35%, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8%, propanediol present at about 1.6% or about 5%, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter present at about 3%, copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax present at about 0.1%, persea gratissima (avocado) oil present at about 3.5%, squalane present at about 6.5%, more typically each present at 0.1% to about 23%, water present at about 70% to about 76%, and glycerin present at about 5%, all amounts by weight of the composition. The composition also includes sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, chromium oxide greens, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta carotene, and citric acid. The composition is a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase comprising water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, and (b) an oil phase comprising at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid or a derivative thereof, and at least one oil. The composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester ranging from about 45 to about 70. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof can be in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. In embodiments where the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.

[0092] Example 2: Freeze-thaw stability Referring to Table 1, the indicated inventive and comparative compositions were subjected to 10 freeze-thaw cycles at -20°C / +25°C.

[0093] Only the compositions of the present invention were stable under these conditions.

[0094] Comparative compositions 2 and 3, both of which did not contain glutamate or derivatives, showed little separation. Comparative composition 1, which did not contain a polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, propanediol, and glutamate or derivatives, showed no separation.

[0095] Example 3: Thermal stability Again referring to Table 1, the inventive and comparative compositions shown were exposed to temperatures of 25°C and 45°C for two months.

[0096] Comparative Composition 1, which did not contain a polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, propanediol, or glutamate or derivative, showed separation under conditions of 45° C. This formulation also showed separation in longer term (approximately 6 months) evaluations at room temperature.

[0097] Comparative composition 2, which did not contain glutamate or derivatives, showed no separation under 45° C. conditions; however, it was not as stable as the texture softened to a lotion instead of a substantially thick cream.

[0098] Example 4: Quantifying transition textures Rheological testing was performed to quantify the unique transitional texture of the compositions of the present invention. The tested compositions were evaluated for their stability at 25°C and 45°C for their breaking and rheological properties at their initial time points and after 2 months. Comparative composition 1, which does not contain polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, propanediol and glutamate or derivative, showed softening and premature breaking over time, which eventually led to separation instability as shown in Examples 2 and 3. The compositions of the invention showed stability over time, maintaining their initial breaking point and rheological properties over time. Inventive composition 1, which has a low amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, showed breaking at a higher tension (i.e., required longer rubbing before breaking) than inventive composition 2, which has a higher amount of glycol. This testing showed that propanediol can be used in compositions according to the present disclosure to adjust the breaking point of the composition. Thus, the compositions of the present invention can be designed such that upon application the composition requires some rubbing before the emulsion thins and releases the aqueous phase, where a higher amount of propanediol allows for a faster transition by requiring less tension for conversion compared to the same composition with a lower amount of propanediol applied with the same force or tension.

[0099] While the present disclosure has been described with reference to the described embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for its elements without departing from the scope of the disclosure. In addition, many modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from the essential scope of the disclosure. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out the disclosure, but that the disclosure will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

[0100] As used herein, the articles "a" and "an" mean one or more when applied to any feature in the embodiments of the present disclosure described herein and in the claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless specifically stated to do so. The article "the" before singular or plural nouns or noun phrases indicates a particular designated feature and may have a singular or plural meaning depending on the context of use. The adjective "any" means one, several, or all of any quantity indiscriminately.

[0101] As used herein, "at least one" means one or more, including two or more, and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0102] The transitional phrases "comprising," "consisting essentially of," and "consisting of," in their original and modified forms, when used in the appended claims, define the claims as to which additional unrecited claim elements or steps, if any, are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or open-ended and does not exclude any additional, unrecited elements, methods, steps, or materials. The term "consisting of" excludes any elements, steps, or materials other than those specified in the claim, in the latter case where impurities are typically associated with the specified material(s). The term "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of the claim to the specified element, step, or material(s) and those that do not materially affect the basic novel feature(s) of the disclosure of the present claim. All materials and methods described herein embodying the present disclosure can be more specifically defined in alternative embodiments by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "consisting essentially of," and "consisting of."

[0103] The terms "free" and "lacking" indicate that no measurable excluded material is present in the composition, typically 0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The term "essentially free" means that although it is preferred that no excluded material is present in the composition, very small amounts of excluded materials may be included in the compositions of the present invention, provided that these amounts do not substantially affect the effective properties of the composition. In particular, "essentially free" means that the excluded material may be present in the composition in an amount less than about 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0104] The term "about" means within 10% of a given number (e.g., "about 10%" means between 9% and 11%, and "about 2%" means between 1.8% and 2.2%).

[0105] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total composition unless otherwise indicated. In general, unless otherwise expressly stated herein, "weight" or "amount" used herein with respect to the percentage amount of an ingredient refers to the amount of raw material that contains the ingredient, and raw material may be described herein as containing less than 100% and up to 100% active of the ingredient. Thus, the weight percentage of active material in a composition is expressed as the amount of raw material that contains the active material used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of active material, which depends on the weight percentage of active material in the raw material.

[0106] The terms "weight percent" and "wt%" can be used interchangeably, for example, to mean a percentage by weight based on the total weight of a composition, article, or material, except as specified for a phase or system that is a component of the composition, article, or material. All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include subranges and amounts using any disclosed points as endpoints. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, e.g., 2% to 8%, e.g., 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges such as "1% to 8%, " "1% to 5%, " "2% to 10%". A range given as "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have the term "about" modify both the 1% and 10% endpoints. Furthermore, ranges are intended to include the endpoints of the range and all numerical values ​​within the range, unless expressly stated otherwise. Furthermore, it should be understood that when amounts of ingredients are given, they are intended to represent the amount of active material, unless otherwise specified.

[0107] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples serve to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure, but are not limiting in nature.

[0108] All publications and patent applications cited herein are incorporated by reference and for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application was specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of a conflict between the present disclosure and a publication or patent application incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure shall control.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: The present invention also includes a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase, the creamy emulsion comprising: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. with glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; v. water; vi. optionally one or more additives; 1. The cosmetic composition, wherein the composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters, the creamy emulsion exhibits disruption and release of the aqueous phase upon application of the composition by rubbing onto a substrate, and the composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5° C. to about 45° C. over a period of 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about −20° C. to about 25° C., wherein the stability is evidenced by the absence of separation of the aqueous and oil phases when not rubbed onto a substrate.

2. The at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and combinations thereof, and the glutamic acid or derivative thereof is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olive oil glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, glyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and combinations thereof.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, squalane, and combinations thereof; and the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethyl hexanediol, and combinations thereof.

3. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said at least one polyglyceryl ester is present at about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of said composition; said glutamic acid or derivatives thereof is present at about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of said composition; said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present at about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of said composition; said at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23% by weight of said composition; and said cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present at about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of said composition. % to about 10% by weight, whereby under a given application tension, the creamy emulsion exhibits more rapid breakdown and release of the aqueous phase as the amount of the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol increases within the range; the water, or water and an aqueous humectant or solvent, or combinations thereof, are present from about 75% to about 95% by weight of the composition, and when present, the at least one humectant is present from about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition; or combinations thereof.

4. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from about 75% to about 95% by weight based on the weight of the composition; and (b) an oil phase comprising at least one polyglyceryl ester, and at least one oil, wherein either one of the aqueous phase and the oil phase also comprises glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester in the composition ranging from about 45 to about 70.

5. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase components selected from the group consisting of oil soluble actives, emollients, silicone oils, and combinations thereof, and one or both of the aqueous phase and the oil phase optionally comprises one or more of the optional additives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

6. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, i. the at least one polyglyceryl ester is present from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition; ii. the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present at least about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition; iii. the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition; iv. the at least one oil is present from about 0.1% to about 23% by weight of the composition; v. the water, or water and an aqueous humectant or solvent, or a combination thereof, is present from about 65% to about 95% by weight of the composition; vi. The cosmetic composition, optionally wherein the one or more additives are selected from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, i. the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, and combinations thereof; ii. the glutamic acid or its derivatives are selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamic acid diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olive oil glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; iii. the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethyl hexanediol, and combinations thereof; iv. The cosmetic composition, wherein said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, squalane, and combinations thereof.

8. 7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, the glutamic acid or derivatives thereof comprise tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present in the aqueous phase, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol, the at least one oil comprises Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, squalane, the water, or water and aqueous humectant or solvent, or combination thereof comprises water, and the at least one humectant is present at about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition, all amounts being by weight based on total weight.

9. 7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein said at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35%, said glutamic acid, or derivatives thereof, comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present in said aqueous phase at about 0.8%; said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol present at about 1.6% to about 5%; and said at least one oil comprises Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Copernicia sericea (copernicia cerifera) butter, Copernicia cerifera ...

1. The cosmetic composition comprising: carnauba wax, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, and squalane; said water, or water and said aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or combination thereof, comprising water and at least one moisturizer comprising glycerin present at about 5%; and further comprising one or more additives selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide greens, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta carotene, retinol, citric acid, and combinations thereof.

10. 1. A method for applying a water-breaking cosmetic composition, the method comprising: a. selecting a cosmetic composition comprising a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase, The creamy emulsion comprises: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. with glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; i. selecting water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof; b. applying the composition to the keratinous matrix by contacting and rubbing in a circular motion, whereby the creamy emulsion exhibits rupture and release of the aqueous phase; The method, wherein the composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters, and the composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5° C. to about 45° C. for 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about −20° C. to about 25° C., when not rubbed against a substrate, as evidenced by the absence of separation between the aqueous and oil phases.

11. 11. The method of claim 10, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl ester is present at about 0.01% to about 2% by weight; the glutamic acid or derivative thereof is present at about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition; the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present at about 0.01% to about 10% by weight and the at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23% by weight; and the water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or combination thereof, is present at about 65% to about 95% by weight, all amounts being by weight and based on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the composition optionally comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

12. 12. The method of claim 11, wherein in the cosmetic composition, the at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35% by weight of the composition; the glutamic acid, or derivative thereof, comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8% by weight; the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol present at about 1.6% to about 5% by weight; the at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23% by weight; the water, or water and aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or combination thereof, is present at about 65% to about 95% by weight, and glycerin is present at about 5% by weight, wherein the composition comprises sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide green, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol. , caffeine, beta-carotene, retinol, citric acid, and combinations thereof, wherein the weight of the composition is based on the weight of the composition, the composition being a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising said water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, said glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof comprising tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; and (b) an oil phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, and said at least one oil, wherein the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester in the range of about 45 to about 70, and the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase components selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, oil-soluble actives, emollients, and combinations thereof.

13. 1. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase, the method comprising: a. providing a composition that excludes minerals and organic UV actives, said composition comprising: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. with glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; ii. water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof; iii. providing, optionally including one or more additives; b. combining the provided ingredients to provide: (a) an aqueous phase comprising the water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; and (b) an oil phase comprising the at least one polyglyceryl ester, and the at least one oil; The method, wherein the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present in one of the aqueous phase and the oil phase, and the composition exhibits stability at temperatures ranging from about 5° C. to about 45° C. over a period of 8 weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about −20° C. to about 25° C., wherein the stability is evidenced by a lack of separation between the aqueous and oil phases when not rubbed against a substrate.

14. 14. The method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the formed composition is a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) an aqueous phase comprising water, or water and an aqueous moisturizer or solvent, or a combination thereof, and the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; and (b) an oil phase comprising the at least one polyglyceryl ester and the at least one oil, wherein the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present in one of the aqueous phase and the oil phase, the oil phase further comprising one or more oil phase components selected from the group consisting of an oil soluble active ingredient, an emollient, a silicone oil, and combinations thereof, and wherein the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester in the range of about 45 to about 70.

15. 15. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is provided in an amount within the range of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, whereby under a given application tension, when the composition is rubbed onto a substrate, the creamy emulsion exhibits more rapid breakdown and release of the aqueous phase as the amount of the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol increases within the range.

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