Glycolipid, cationic polymer and (POLY) compositions comprising hydroxy acids

Abstract

To provide a stable composition comprising a glycolipid selected from a rhamnolipid, a sophorolipid and a mixture thereof, and a (poly) hydroxy acid, and capable of providing at least an acceptable, preferably good feeling of use.SOLUTION: A composition comprising (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof, and (c) at least one (poly) hydroxy acid.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising a glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, a cationic polymer, and a (poly)hydroxy acid, as well as a cosmetic method using the composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Skin cleansing is very important for facial care and must be as effective as possible, since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, residues of daily cosmetic and makeup products, can accumulate in the wrinkles of the skin and clog the skin pores, resulting in the appearance of age spots.

[0003] One way to satisfactorily cleanse the skin is to use a foaming cleansing product. Currently, foaming cleansing products available on the market come in the form of foaming bars, gels or creams.

[0004] Environmentally compatible cosmetic formulations, designed and developed with environmental concerns in mind, have become a major goal in striving to meet global challenges.

[0005] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation methods and ingredients to address these environmental issues.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new cleansing compositions, that have a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.

[0007] Biosurfactants such as glycolipids, particularly rhamnolipids, are naturally occurring materials known to have unique biological activities such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, and antibacterial effects.

[0008] Moreover, acids are widely used in cosmetics. For example, acids can function in the release of desmosomes in SC cells, which are important parts for cell connection. In particular, acids such as alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids help remove the bond structure between keratin in the stratum corneum and have a mild melting effect on keratin.

[0009] However, products containing high concentrations of alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids can cause irritation, redness, and dryness. Polyhydroxy acids, on the other hand, are said to be less irritating than traditional hydroxy acids. However, because polyhydroxy acids also have an exfoliating effect, there are concerns that they may cause a stinging sensation upon use and that they may cause temporary dryness of the skin due to the removal of dead skin cells. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0010] [Patent Document 1] FR 2889448 [Patent Document 2] FR 2851465 [Patent Document 3] FR2853533 [Patent Document 4] WO03 / 068824 [Patent Document 5] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2008 / 0200704 [Non-patent literature]

[0011] [Non-Patent Document 1] AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326. [Non-patent document 2] U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. [Non-patent document 3] D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber, Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, pp. 53-90. [Non-patent document 4] F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar, Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), pp. 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0012] There is a need for a stable composition comprising glycolipids and (poly)hydroxy acids that does not change its appearance at different temperatures.

[0013] Moreover, there is a need for compositions that provide at least an acceptable, and preferably good, experience when using them, even when they contain (poly)hydroxy acids.

[0014] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a stable composition comprising a glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and a (poly)hydroxy acid, which composition is capable of providing at least an acceptable, preferably good, experience in use. [Means for solving the problem]

[0015] The above objectives are: (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from rhamnolipids; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid; This can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0016] The mass ratio of the amount of (a) glycolipid to the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, more preferably 7.5 or more.

[0017] The amount of (a) glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0018] (b) The molecular weight of the cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500, and more preferably greater than 2,000.

[0019] The amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.01% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0020] (c) The (poly)hydroxy acid may be selected from polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0021] The polyhydroxy acid may be selected from dihydroxypropanoic acids such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acids such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acids such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid, and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acids such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acids such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; derivatives thereof, such as salts thereof, or lactone forms thereof, for example, gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and mixtures thereof, preferably the polyhydroxy acid is selected from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

[0022] Alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, and 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid. The alpha-hydroxy acid may be selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, galacturonic acid, arachidonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and salts thereof, more preferably the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid. and / or The β-hydroxy acid may be selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid, and more preferably the β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0023] (c) The (poly)hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] The amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The mass ratio of the amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid / the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from amino acid-based surfactants and taurine-based surfactants.

[0027] The amount of (d) anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0028] The present invention also provides a cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as skin, comprising the steps of: applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous materials; Optionally, removing the composition from the keratinous material. It also relates to beauty methods, including: DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0029] As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition comprising a glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and a (poly)hydroxy acid, which composition can provide at least an acceptable, and preferably a good, sensation when used.

[0030] Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from rhamnolipids; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid; Includes.

[0031] The compositions according to the present invention are stable.

[0032] The compositions according to the present invention are stable such that the appearance of the composition does not change substantially over an extended period of time at various temperatures, for example, at low temperatures such as −5° C. and 4° C., and at room temperature (25° C.). For example, if the composition according to the present invention is transparent, it can maintain its transparent appearance over an extended period of time at various temperatures.

[0033] The compositions according to the present invention can provide at least an acceptable, preferably good, feel in use, such as no squeaking, moist feeling and smoothness.

[0034] For example, when the composition according to the present invention is applied onto the skin and rinsed off from the skin with water, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good moist feeling and a good smooth finish to the skin.

[0035] The compositions according to the present invention may also provide additional benefits.

[0036] Since glycolipids such as rhamnolipids have biological activities, such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and antibacterial effects, the inclusion of (a) glycolipids provided by the composition according to the present invention is believed to be useful in the care of keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0037] Since glycolipids can function as (anionic) surfactants, the inclusion of (a) glycolipids can also provide enhanced cleansing effects, and therefore compositions according to the present invention may also be useful for cleansing keratinous materials such as skin.

[0038] (a) Glycolipids are naturally occurring, may be renewable materials, and are biodegradable. In addition, polylysine and chitosan can also be obtained from natural resources, and (b) cationic polymers are environmentally friendly components. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include environmentally friendly components.

[0039] The present invention will now be described in more detail.

[0040] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid; Includes.

[0041] (glycolipids) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid. A single type of glycolipid may be used, or two or more different types of glycolipids may be used in combination.

[0042] The term "glycolipid" is understood to mean a compound formed from lipids to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.

[0043] According to the present invention, (a) the glycolipid is selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof, more preferably from rhamnolipids.

[0044] Sophorolipids: (a) The glycolipid contains a sophorose moiety and has the following general formula (II):

[0045] [ka]

[0046] (In the formula, -R 3 and R 4 each independently represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; -R 5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; -R 6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms, R 5 and R 6 The total number of carbon atoms in each group does not exceed 20, preferably 14 to 18, -R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, -R 8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or R 7 and R 8 together form a lactone ring) The sophorolipid may be selected from sophorolipids that can be represented by:

[0047] Sophorolipids are R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, and R 8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in the form of an open chain free acid:

[0048] [ka]

[0049] (In the formula, -R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , and R 6 is as defined above, but However, R 3 and R 4 at least one of which represents an acetyl group The lactone ring is R 7 and R 8 It may be incorporated into compositions according to the invention in either its lactone form, formed between

[0050] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, such as Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. Fermentation processes generally use sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0051] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones and may be used in the form of a mixture, or the required form may be isolated.

[0052] Examples of sophorolipids that may be used include the products sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and BioToLife by BASF.

[0053] Rhamnolipids: (a) The glycolipid may be selected from rhamnolipids.

[0054] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0055] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (monorhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (dirhamnolipid) linked by glycosidic bonds to one, two, or three chains of β-hydroxylated fatty acids, which are linked together by ester bonds.

[0056] Preferably, the rhamnolipid has the following formula (VI):

[0057] [ka]

[0058] (In the formula, m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n represents an integer equal to 1 or 0, R1 and R2 each independently represent a branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, identical or different hydrocarbon group, preferably a mono-, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl group, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms. and salts thereof, solvates thereof, and optical isomers thereof.

[0059] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects monorhamnolipid, and when n is equal to 1, it protects dirhamnolipid.

[0060] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid.

[0061] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, R1 and R2 each independently represent a branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular a hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, identical or different hydrocarbon group, preferably a mono-, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl group, having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, further including salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0062] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration, preferably in the alpha configuration.

[0063] In the context of the present invention, The salts of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) are more particularly its carboxylic acid salts with organic or inorganic cations, in particular cations chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium. The solvated forms of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) are more particularly solvated with water or with one or more molecules of an organic solvent, such as hydrates or solvates of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, in which the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably in the form of the R enantiomer. The term "alkyl" group refers to a saturated, straight or branched aliphatic group, e.g., a C1-C2 group having a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms. 20 It represents an alkyl group, more specifically, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, or eicosyl.

[0064] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a compound of formula (VI) wherein m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, R1 and R2 are identical or different and are pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl groups and groups of formula (CH2) o CH3, where o represents an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15, more particularly from 4 to 12. The present invention contains at least one dirhamnolipid.

[0065] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0066] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, dirhamnolipids of general formula (VI), where m is preferably equal to 1.

[0067] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one monorhamnolipid.

[0068] More preferably, the composition according to the invention has the following formula (VII):

[0069] [ka]

[0070] [In the formula, m represents an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, - R1 is -(CH2) p -CH3 group, where p is an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12; - R2 is -(CH2) q -CH group, where q is an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12. and at least one dirhamnolipid of the formula (I), as well as salts thereof, solvates thereof, and optical isomers thereof.

[0071] Illustrative examples of dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY as defined in Table 1 below.

[0072] The formula di-RL-CXCY is an alternative notation for representing a dirhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized with two groups R1 and R2, represented by the symbols CX and CY (the integers X and Y are equal to p+4 and q+4, respectively).

[0073] [Table 1]

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid (also called di-RL-C10C10) of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0075] Preferably, the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) (wherein p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1) is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight, preferably between 51% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.

[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a compound of formula (VI) wherein n and m are equal to 1 and R1 is (CH2) orepresents a -CH3 group, where o is an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl groups, preferably R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group], or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two, in particular at least three, of formula (VI) or (VII) as defined above, more particularly: - dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6, and m is equal to 1, - dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, and - a compound of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1 and R1 is (CH2) o R1 represents a -CH3 group, where o is an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl groups, preferably R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group. The present invention comprises a mixture of dirhamnolipids selected from:

[0079] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least 50% by weight, preferably between 51% and 85% by weight, of dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6, and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, - 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, of dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and - 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 3% to 12% by weight, preferably 5% to 10% by weight of dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipid In particular, the dirhamnolipids comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0080] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art, starting from bacterial production strains such as Pseudomonas.

[0081] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber, Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, pp. 53-90, and in F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar, Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981), pp. 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0082] As rhamnolipid, the product sold under the name Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipid) may be used.

[0083] The amount of (a) glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0084] The amount of (a) glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0085] The amount of (a) glycolipid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0086] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to express a range of preferred amounts.

[0087] (cationic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof. A single type of such cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of such cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0088] The cationic polymer may have a positive charge density. (a) The charge density of the cationic polymer may be 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0089] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer is less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000, and more preferably less than 10,000. In other words, the (b) cationic polymer may be low-molecular-weight polylysine or chitosan.

[0090] (b) The molecular weight (Da) of the cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500, and more preferably greater than 2,000.

[0091] Therefore, (b) the molecular weight (Da) of the cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0092] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means weight average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography according to ASTM D5296-19.

[0093] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysine.

[0094] Polylysine corresponds to the condensation of several amino acids with lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysine is typically used as a natural preservative in food. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0095] Polylysine may be, for example, epsilon-polylysine (also referred to as "ε-polylysine"), which is a condensation product of the amino group at the ε-position of lysine with a carboxyl group, or alpha-polylysine (also referred to as "α-polylysine"), which is a condensation product of the amino group at the α-position of lysine with a carboxyl group. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Polylysine is generally a condensation product of L-lysine, i.e., poly-L-lysine.

[0096] Examples of polylysines include: - epsilon-poly-lysine from JNC CORPORATION, which is a 25% solution of epsilon-poly-L-lysine having a molecular weight of about 4,700 in an aqueous solution; and - Polylysine from Shandong Freda Biotechnology Co., Ltd., in the form of a white to creamy yellow powder and with a molecular weight between 4,130 and 5,776.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, such as a polylysine having a fatty chain as described in patent application FR 2889448, a polylysine having a guanidine or biguanidine functional group as described in patent application FR 2851465, or a thiolated polylysine as described in patent application FR 2853533.

[0098] Polylysine may be in the form of an organic salt or inorganic salt. Acid addition salts include, for example, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, and acetate salts, or fatty acid salts such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Base addition salts include, for example, sodium salts, calcium salts, and hydroxyalkylamine salts, such as N-methylglucamine, aminopropanediol, and triethanolamine.

[0099] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present in the form of a single molecule in the composition or is not covalently bonded to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to a dye compound. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to a polyorganosiloxane compound. The term "polyorganosiloxane" is well known in the art and refers to a compound having an Si-O main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain.

[0100] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in free form. The term "free form" as used herein indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bound to any other compound.

[0101] According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosan.

[0102] Chitosan is very rare in nature: it has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a certain class of fungi, the Zygomycetes.

[0103] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin, a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-type bonds (1,4).

[0104] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0105] "Chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from the structural units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type (1,4) bonds, and is a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0106] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is 40% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, preferably 15% or less, preferably 10% or less.

[0107] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or strong base titration.

[0108] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source, in particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources, such as mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus) or Aspergillus niger.

[0109] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of fungi of the Ascomycete class, in particular Aspergillus niger and / or Basidiomycete fungus, in particular Lentinula edodes and / or mushroom. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0110] The chitosan may be of Genetically Modified Organism (GMO) origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0111] The chitosan according to the invention is natural, i.e. unmodified, in particular does not contain any chemical modification.

[0112] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0113] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of a powder, which is commercially available from Glentham Life Sciences under the name GU3511.

[0114] The amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0115] The amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferable that the amount of (b) cationic polymer is 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may even be more preferable that the amount of (b) cationic polymer is 0.1% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0117] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to express a range of preferred amounts.

[0118] The (a) glycolipid may be included in the composition according to the present invention in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of the (b) cationic polymer.

[0119] Therefore, the mass ratio of the amount of (a) glycolipid to the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, more preferably 7.5 or more.

[0120] ((Poly)hydroxy acid) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid. A single type of (poly)hydroxy acid may be used, or two or more different types of (poly)hydroxy acids may be used in combination.

[0121] Preferably, (c) the (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Polyhydroxy acids: The term "polyhydroxy acid (PHA)" refers to an organic compound having at least one carboxy group and multiple hydroxy groups. The number of carboxy groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxy groups are preferred, and one carboxy group is more preferred. The number of hydroxy groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferred, and 2 to 6 are even more preferred. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but preferably PHA contains 3 to 11 carbon atoms, and preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0123] The PHA may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.

[0124] The polyhydroxy acids are advantageously chosen from dihydroxypropanoic acids such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acids such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acids such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acids such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acids such as glucoheptanoic acid or galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, their salts or their derivatives in their lactone form, for example gluconolactone or ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts, and triethanolamine salts; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salts are preferred. When two or more acid salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0126] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is provided in the form of a lactone, the lactone ring being preferably saturated, and preferably in this case the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from gluconolactone, ribonolactone and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Therefore, preferably the polyhydroxy acid is selected from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention uses only one or several PHAs to select or combine their effects. For example, lactobionic acid, derived from lactose, moisturizes, prevents oxidation, and soothes. Gluconic acid and gluconolactone are naturally present in skin cells. Their role is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

[0129] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid used in the composition according to the invention is gluconolactone.

[0130] The amount of PHA in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight (of active material), preferably from 0.2% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Hydroxy acids: The term "hydroxy acid" as used herein means a mono- or polycarboxylic acid having at least one hydroxy functional group that is different from polyhydroxy acids.

[0132] The hydroxy acid can be selected from α- and β-hydroxy acids. In one embodiment, the hydroxy acid can be a mixture of α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids. The α- and β-positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functional groups is occupying the α- or β-position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functional groups of the acid, i.e., at least one of the hydroxyl functional groups is bonded to either the carbon bearing the hydroxyl functional group or the carbon adjacent to the carbon bearing the carboxyl functional group, respectively. The hydroxy acid can be present in a form selected from the free acid, its associated salt (e.g., salts with organic bases and alkali metals), and optionally the corresponding lactide or lactone (i.e., a form obtained by self-esterification of multiple molecules), depending, for example, on the final pH to be imparted to the composition.

[0133] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" or "AHA" as used herein means a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl group on adjacent (alpha) carbon atoms.

[0134] Alpha-hydroxy acids have the following chemical formula: (R a )(R b )C(OH)COOH (In the formula, R a and R b is a saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomer, straight or branched chain or cyclic form of H, F, Cl, Br, I, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, in addition to R a and R b may contain OH, CHO, COOH, and alkoxyl groups having 1 to 9 carbon atoms) It can be expressed as:

[0135] The hydrogen atoms attached to the carbon atoms may be replaced by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha hydroxy acids may exist as free acids or lactones, or as partial salts with organic bases or inorganic alkalis. The alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers, such as D-, L-, DL-, and meso-isomers.

[0136] R a and R b are alkyl, they are independently C1 to C5, C6 to C 10 , C 11 ~C 15 , C 16 ~C 20 , C 21 ~C 25 and C 26 ~C 29 Therefore, compounds within the above formula can be any of the groups R a and R b Includes all possible combinations of C1 to C 12 R independently selected from a and R b Included within the foregoing is a subgenus of compounds having the formula:

[0137] R a and R b With respect to , typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl and ethoxyl.

[0138] The first group of alpha hydroxy acids can be subdivided into: (1) alkyl alpha hydroxy acids, (2) aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids, (3) polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids, (4) polycarboxy alpha hydroxy acids, and (5) Various alpha hydroxy acids.

[0139] Below are representative alpha hydroxy acids in each subgroup: (1) Alkyl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid), and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid). (2) Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid), 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid), and 4-hydroxymandelic acid. (3) Polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid), 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers: erythronic acid, threonic acid), 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers: ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid), 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers: allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid), 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers: glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.). (4) Polycarboxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid (tartronic acid), 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (malic acid), 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutane-1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid), 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid), 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dioic acid (isomers, ribalic acid, arabalic acid, xylaric acid, lixaric acid), 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid (isomers, glucaric acid) , galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, glular acid, idaric acid, talaric acid), 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (citric acid), 1-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (isocitric acid), 1-hydroxy-1,2,4-butanetricarboxylic acid (homoisocitric acid), 2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyl-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid, agaricic acid). (5) Various alpha hydroxy acids: glyceruronic acid, erythruronic acid, threuronic acid, 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acid (isomers, riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid), 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanuronic acid (isomers, alluronic acid, altruronic acid), glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid acid), 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers: alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

[0140] Alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, and 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid. The α-hydroxy acid may be selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, galacturonic acid, arachidonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably the α-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and salts thereof, more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid.

[0141] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconic acid, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from lactic acid.

[0142] The term "beta-hydroxy acid" or "BHA" as used herein means a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0143] β-hydroxy acids include, but are not limited to, salicylic acid and its derivatives, particularly those of the following formula (I):

[0144] [ka]

[0145] [In the formula, R1 is a hydroxyl group or a group of the formula: -O-CO-R4 wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing 1 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol functional group optionally substituted with an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms. represents an ester of R2 and R3 are each independently located at the 3-, 4-, 5-, or 6-position on the benzene ring and each independently represent a hydrogen atom or one of the following groups: -(O) n -(CO) m -R5 (wherein n and m are, independently of one another, integers each equal to 0 or 1, with the proviso that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms, R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated aliphatic group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an unsaturated group containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms and having 1 to 9 conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, which may be substituted with at least one substituent selected from a halogen atom (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine), a trifluoromethyl group, a hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. represents] or a salt of such a derivative.

[0146] The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that R1 represents a hydroxyl group, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, and R3 is in the 5-position of the benzene ring and represents a -CO-R5 group, where R5 represents a saturated aliphatic group containing 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

[0147] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, and 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and mixtures thereof. This is more particularly 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (INCI: capryloyl salicylic acid).

[0148] The β-hydroxy acid may be selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid, and more preferably the β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0149] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, salicylic acid esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from salicylic acid.

[0150] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from lactones of polyhydroxy acids, more preferably gluconolactone.

[0151] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, more preferably from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably is lactic acid.

[0152] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from β-hydroxy acids, more preferably from the group consisting of salicylic acid, salicylic acid esters, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably salicylic acid.

[0153] Preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from lactones of polyhydroxy acids, α-monohydroxy acids, β-monohydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] More preferably, the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] The amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0156] The amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] The amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0158] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to express a range of preferred amounts.

[0159] The (c) (poly)hydroxy acid may be included in the composition according to the present invention in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of the (b) cationic polymer.

[0160] Therefore, the mass ratio of the amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid / the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, more preferably 5 or more, more preferably 7.5 or more, and even more preferably 10 or more.

[0161] (anionic surfactants) The composition according to the present invention may contain (d) at least one anionic surfactant. A single type of anionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0162] Preferably, (d) the anionic surfactant is selected from amino acid-based surfactants, taurine-based surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Amino acid surfactants: The term "amino acid surfactant" as used herein refers to an anionic surfactant based on amino acid or its derivative. Typically, an amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant containing at least one amino moiety and at least one carboxylic acid moiety in the form of carboxylate. An amino acid surfactant may have two or more amino moieties and / or two or more carboxylic acid moieties in the form of carboxylate. An amino acid surfactant can also be referred to as an amino acid-based surfactant.

[0164] Amino acid based surfactants are herein distinct from taurine based surfactants.

[0165] Amino acid surfactant can be preferably selected from amino acid derivative.Amino acid derivative can be more preferably selected from the salt of amino acid and N-acylated amino acid, for example, the alkali metal salt and alkaline earth metal salt of amino acid and N-acylated amino acid, for example, the sodium salt, potassium salt, magnesium salt and calcium salt of amino acid and N-acylated amino acid.Therefore, amino acid surfactant is preferably N-acylated amino acid surfactant.

[0166] The acyl group that forms the N-acyl moiety of the amino acid derivative is C1-C 30 Acyl group, preferably C6-C 28 Acyl groups, more preferably C 12 ~C 24 It may be an acyl group.

[0167] Even more preferably, the amino acid surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of glutamate, N-acylated glutamate, aspartate, N-acylated aspartate, and salts thereof.

[0168] Carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means, such as neutralizing the respective amino acids with a base. The amine group located on the α- or β-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction (acyl halide) to form an amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e., an amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for acylation of amino acid carboxylate salts include acyl chloride, acyl bromide, acyl fluoride, and acyl iodide. Acyl halides can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 22It can be prepared by reacting a fatty acid with thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide). Representative acyl halides include, but are not limited to, acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (coconut oil-derived fatty acid chloride), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixture thereof. Other acyl halides include bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the aforementioned fatty acids. Methods for preparing acyl halides and alternative methods for acylating amino acids are described in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2008 / 0200704, published August 21, 2008, which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0169] In one embodiment, the amino acid based anionic surfactant has the formula (A):

[0170] [ka]

[0171] [In the formula, Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms; X is hydrogen or a methyl group; n is 0 or 1, Y is hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O - M + , -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O - M + is selected from M is a salt-forming cation with COO as the counter anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine. It is expressed as:

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the amino fatty acid of formula (A), Z is a saturated or unsaturated linear C8-C 18 represents an alkyl group, in particular a cocoyl group, X is hydrogen, n is 0, Y is hydrogen; M is a salt-forming cation with COO as the counter anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0173] Examples of amino acid based surfactants include salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixtures thereof. More specifically, they include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alanine β-alaninate), lauroyl β-alanine, lauroyl methyl β-alanine, myristoyl β-alanine, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alanine, sodium cocoyl alanine, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alanine and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alanine, palmitoyl glycine (palmitoylglycinate), sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, potassium Examples of amino acid surfactants include sodium proyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] For example, reference can be made to the following commercially available amino acid-based surfactants: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by the company Ciba or Oramix L 30® by the company Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. or Alanone ALE® by Kawaken Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd., or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd., or sodium cocoyl alanine sold under the name Amilite® ACS-12 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.; glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto Co., Inc., triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.; disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft® HS-21P by Ajinomoto Co., Inc., and mixtures thereof; sodium cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SF-N by BASF Japan Co., Ltd.; disodium cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SCG-L by BASF Japan Co., Ltd.; and disodium / sodium cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft® CS-22 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc., aspartates, for example the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartic acid triethanolamine and N-myristoyl aspartic acid triethanolamine sold under the name Asparack® by the company Mitsubishi; glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoylglycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.; citrates, such as the citric acid monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohol sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt, Galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactosiduronate sold by the company Soliance.

[0175] The amino acid based surfactant may preferably be selected from glutamates, more preferably selected from the group consisting of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Taurine surfactants: The term "taurine-based surfactant" as used herein refers to an anionic surfactant that contains at least one taurine moiety. Taurine-based surfactants may also be referred to as taurine-based surfactants.

[0177] The taurine-based surfactant is preferably an acyltaurine, more preferably an N-acyltaurine, and even more preferably an N-acylmethyltaurine (ie, N-acyl-N-methyltaurine).

[0178] The taurine-based surfactants include those represented by the following formula I:

[0179] [ka]

[0180] [In the formula, R 7 (C8~C 22 ) alkyl, R 8 is H or (C1-C4) alkyl, R 9 and R 10 are each independently H or (C1-C4) alkyl; M +is a sodium, potassium, or ammonium cation] Examples include:

[0181] The taurine-based surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of taurine, caproyl taurine, lauroyl taurine, myristoyl taurine, palmitoyl taurine, stearoyl taurine, oleoyl taurine, cocoyl taurine, methyl taurine, coconut oil fatty acid methyl taurine, palm kernel oil fatty acid methyl taurine, hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acid methyl taurine, beef tallow fatty acid methyl taurine, hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acid methyl taurine, caproyl methyl taurine, lauroyl methyl taurine, myristoyl methyl taurine, palmitoyl methyl taurine, stearoyl methyl taurine, oleoyl methyl taurine, cocoyl methyl taurine, methyl taurine cocoyl methyl taurine, and salts thereof.

[0182] For example, the taurine surfactant may include sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, calcium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, and ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate. Similarly, in some examples, the taurine surfactant may be sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.

[0183] Examples of taurine-based surfactants include, but are not limited to, the following: - sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyl taurine sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.; - sodium methylstearoyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT®; and - Sodium palmitoyl methyl taurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.

[0184] The amount of (d) anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, and more preferably 2% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0185] The amount of (d) anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0186] The amount of (d) anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0187] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of (a) glycolipid and (d) anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 25% by mass, and more preferably 3% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0188] In another embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio of the amount of (a) glycolipid to the total amount of (a) glycolipid and (d) anionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 to 1, preferably 0.15 to 0.75, and more preferably 0.2 to 0.5.

[0189] (water) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.

[0190] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, and more preferably 70% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0191] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by mass or less, preferably 90% by mass or less, and more preferably 85% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0192] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 85% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0193] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the invention may be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5, more preferably from 5 to 7.

[0194] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid different from or similar to the (poly)hydroxy acid mentioned above. The pH of the composition according to the invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0195] (Optional Ingredients) In addition to the above-mentioned components, the composition according to the present invention may contain optional components typically used in cosmetics, specifically, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers, anionic surfactants other than (a) glycolipids or (d) anionic surfactants, for example, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived from synthetic thickeners, volatile or nonvolatile organic solvents, polyols, cationic polymers other than polylysine or chitosan, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, nonionic polymers, silicones and silicone derivatives, fatty acids, natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (b) cationic polymers, waxes, preservatives, antioxidants, salts, etc., within ranges that do not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0196] The composition according to the present invention may contain the above-mentioned optional components in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 40% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0197] The amount of silicone in the composition according to the invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.

[0198] (Embodiment) According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass of (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably rhamnolipids; 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof; and 0.1% to 20% by weight of (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0199] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass of (a) at least one glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof; 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b') at least one polylysine having a molecular weight of more than 1,000, and 0.1% to 15% by mass of (c') at least one (poly)hydroxy acid selected from polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 1% to 10% by weight of (a') at least one rhamnolipid; 0.1% to 3% by weight of (b'') at least one polylysine having a molecular weight of more than 1,000 and less than 20,000; and 0.1% to 10% by mass of (c'') at least one (poly)hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of gluconolactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] [Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and the optional components (if necessary) described above.

[0202] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0203] The compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with conventional mixing means such as stirrers and homogenizers, and heating may not be necessary.

[0204] [form] The compositions according to the present invention may be in any form.

[0205] For example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, a toner, a serum or a lotion.

[0206] In another embodiment, compositions according to the present invention may be packaged with an automatic foam pump that allows the consumer to apply the composition in a foam.

[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam.

[0208] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are packaged in an auto-foam.

[0209] The compositions according to the invention may have a clear or translucent appearance, preferably a clear appearance, for example before dilution with water.

[0210] Clarity may be measured by measuring turbidity (e.g., using a HACH 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter). The turbidity of compositions according to the present invention may be less than 400 NTU (translucent), preferably less than 350 NTU, more preferably less than 300 NTU (transparent).

[0211] [Beauty use] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to keratinous materials. In this specification, keratinous materials refer to materials containing keratin as a main component, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, etc. Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably used in a beauty method for keratinous materials, particularly skin.

[0212] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a dermocosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition, more preferably a face care composition.

[0213] In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cleansing. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin, and even more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the face.

[0214] [Cosmetic methods and use] The present invention also relates to: - a cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as the skin, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous material and, optionally, removing the composition from the keratinous material such as the skin; or - Use of a composition according to the invention for caring for or cleansing keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0215] Cosmetic regimen means herein non-therapeutic cosmetic regimens such as cosmetic regimens for caring for or cleansing the surface of keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0216] The removal step in the cosmetic method according to the present invention can be carried out, for example, by rinsing the composition according to the present invention from keratinous materials such as skin with water.

[0217] If no removal step is performed, the cosmetic method according to the present invention may be useful for caring for keratinous materials such as skin, because (a) glycolipids can impart anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, or antibacterial properties to keratinous materials, which may be particularly useful for caring for acne-prone and sensitive skin.

[0218] Preferably, the composition is removed from keratinous materials such as skin.

[0219] Preferably, the method according to the present invention includes a rinsing step to remove the composition from keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0220] The present invention relates to the use of the composition described above for caring for or cleansing the surface of keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0221] The present invention also provides (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from rhamnolipids; and (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid In a composition comprising (b) the use of at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof, It also relates to the use of the composition to impart enhanced anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or anti-bacterial properties to keratinous materials, which may be particularly useful in the care of acne-prone and sensitive skin.

[0222] The present invention also provides (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from rhamnolipids; and (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid In a composition comprising (b) the use of at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof, For example, it may be used to stabilize a composition at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101325 Pa) at -5°C, 4°C or 25°C.

[0223] The above explanations regarding (a) glycolipid, (b) cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof, and (c) (poly)hydroxy acid for the composition according to the present invention are applicable to the above uses. [Example]

[0224] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0225] (Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. All values ​​for the amounts of ingredients in Table 1 are based on "mass %" of the active material.

[0226] [Table 2]

[0227] [evaluation] (stability) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was stored in a transparent glass bottle and maintained for one month at -5°C, 4°C, or 25°C. After one month, the appearance of each composition was visually evaluated according to the following criteria. Good: No precipitation was observed and the original appearance was maintained. Fair: A very small amount of white particles was observed at the bottom of the vial. Poor: Large amounts of white particles were observed at the bottom of the vial.

[0228] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0229] (sensory evaluation) Five expert judges evaluated the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 for "squeakiness," "moist feeling," and "smoothness" according to the following procedure: (1) placing each composition into a container equipped with an outlet and a pump so that the composition can be discharged from the container through the outlet by pushing the pump; (2) Wash your hands with water for 2 seconds. (3) Pump twice to dispense each composition onto your hands. (4) applying the composition to the hands by rubbing the hands together; (5) The composition was rinsed off with water (squeakiness was evaluated), (6) Hands were lightly wiped dry with a paper towel (evaluated for moistness and smoothness).

[0230] The evaluation criteria for "squeakiness," "moist feeling," and "smoothness" were as follows: Squeak: Good: No creaking Normal: Slight creaking Poor: Strong creaking Moisturizing: Good: Enhanced moisturizing effect Normal: No change before and after steps (1) to (6) Poor: Reduced moistness Smoothness: Good: Very smooth Normal: No change before and after steps (1) to (6) Poor: Not smooth

[0231] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0232] (Summary) The compositions according to Examples 1-2 were found to have good or acceptable stability.

[0233] Comparative Example 1 should be compared with Example 1. The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not contain polylysine, was unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 provided an inferior feel in use (more gritty, less moisturized, and less smooth) compared to the composition according to Example 1.

[0234] Comparative Example 2 should be compared with Example 2. The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not contain polylysine, was unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example 2 provided an inferior feel in use (more gritty, less moisturized, and less smooth) compared to the composition according to Example 2.

Claims

1. (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from rhamnolipids; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising:

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the amount of (a) glycolipid to the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition is 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 7.5 or more.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) glycolipid in the composition is 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the molecular weight of the (b) cationic polymer is greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500, more preferably greater than 2,000.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition is 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

7. 7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the polyhydroxy acid is selected from dihydroxypropanoic acids such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acids such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acids such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid, and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acids such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acids such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; derivatives thereof, such as salts thereof, or lactone forms thereof, for example, gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and mixtures thereof, preferably the polyhydroxy acid is selected from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

8. - Alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeth ... The α-hydroxy acid is selected from icosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably the α-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and salts thereof, more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid. and / or the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably from salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid, and more preferably the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid; 7. The composition of claim 6.

9. 9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid in the composition is from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the amount of (c) (poly)hydroxy acid to the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition is 1 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

12. 12. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from amino acid-based surfactants and taurine-based surfactants.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the amount of (d) anionic surfactant in the composition is 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

14. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as skin, comprising: applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to keratinous materials; Optionally, removing the composition from the keratinous material. Beauty methods, including:

15. (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from rhamnolipids; and (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid In a composition comprising (b) the use of at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysine, chitosan, and mixtures thereof, Use of the composition to provide enhanced anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or anti-bacterial properties to keratinous materials.

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